JPH08109540A - Woven and knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To produce a woven and knitted fabric minimizing occurrence of fluff even in the case of using a jet dyeing machine and exhibiting soft and excellent handle and high drapeability in the case of treatment by a jet dyeing machine. CONSTITUTION: In the cafe of treating woven or knitted fabric made by using cellulosic short fibers or >=35wt.% of the cellulosic short fibers and <=65wt.% of other fibers by a jet dyeing machine for circulating the fabric together with a jet treating solution, yarn twisted in an S twist at 15-30 degree twisting angle is used as the fibers constituting the woven or knitted fabric.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric which is processed by using a liquid flow treatment device which circulates a raw material woven or knitted fabric together with a jetted processing liquid. The above-mentioned jet treatment device is generally called a jet dyeing machine, and may be hereinafter referred to as a jet dyeing machine.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art FIG. 1 is a schematic sectional view showing a jet dyeing machine. The cloth 2 in the jet dyeing machine 1 is made to flow in the direction of arrow A by the flow force of the processing liquid 3 jetted downward from the nozzle 4, advances to the pipe 6, and further heads to the processing layer 5 (direction of arrow B). In the treatment layer 5, the treatment liquid 3 is formed so that the cloth 2 is folded over.
Be immersed in. Then, the cloth 2 rides on the treatment liquid 3 ejected from the nozzle 4 again through the head portion 9 and rides on the circulating flow in the direction of arrow A. While this circulation is repeated, the cloth is subjected to a treatment such as dyeing. The processing liquid 3 ejected from the nozzle 4
Are collected from the suction port 8 and supplied from the liquid supply port 7. The above jet dyeing machine is used for various treatments such as desizing, scouring, and weight reduction in addition to dyeing.

[0003] Conventionally, woven and knitted fabrics using cellulosic short fibers such as pulp and cotton, rayon made from pulp or the like, or cellulosic regenerated single fibers such as high molecular weight polynosic are well known. However, when these woven and knitted fabrics are applied to a jet dyeing machine, various kinds of problems such as scratches and attrition due to friction in the pipe 6 and the entrance and exit of the pipe 6 and rope wrinkling caused by heading to the head portion 9 while folded are generated. There is a problem that defects easily occur, and moreover, there is a problem that fluff is generated as a larger problem than the above-mentioned thread / attack and rope wrinkle. For these reasons, the jet dyeing machine was not used for the woven and knitted fabrics using the cellulosic short fibers.

However, since a woven or knitted fabric treated with a jet dyeing machine generally gives a good texture, it has been attempted recently to use a jet dyeing machine also for a woven or knitted fabric using short cellulosic fibers. Especially in the use of women's clothing, since soft texture, good drapeability, elasticity and swelling are often required, it is desired to realize processing using a jet dyeing machine.

[0005]

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] As a solution to the problem of fluff formation, fried hair is considered. However, if the hair-burning treatment is performed before the treatment with the jet dyeing machine, the fluff newly generated by the treatment with the jet dyeing machine performed after that is naturally unsolved. If the hair is burnt after the treatment, problems such as discoloration of the woven or knitted fabric and uneven streaks occur. Further, the method of firing hair twice before dyeing and after dyeing has a problem that the number of steps is increased.

As a solution to the fluff problem, fluff removal by enzyme treatment such as cellulase has been carried out. In this case, however, the strength of the woven or knitted fabric is greatly reduced, and the fabric standard is greatly restricted. In addition, there is a problem that the production cost is high due to the use of the enzyme, and nevertheless, the enzyme treatment method does not seem to be very effective for the loss of fluff.

On the other hand, in the case of a woven or knitted fabric which is expected to be fibrillated, the fibrils disappear before fluff when subjected to the above-mentioned fluffing method or enzyme treatment method, which is a fatal defect as a commercial product.

Other attempts have been made to increase the number of twists of the yarn as a solution to the fluff problem. However, in addition to the high cost of producing yarns of different product groups, a slight increase in the twists almost prevents the fluff. There is a problem that the effect does not appear.

Further, when a woven or knitted fabric is subjected to a liquid flow treatment process such as desizing, scouring, or weight reduction using an alkaline substance such as soda ash or sodium hydroxide, it is further treated with the alkaline substance to further cause fuzz. appear. In order to remove the fluff generated in such a large amount, the above-mentioned fluffing method, enzyme treatment method and the like cannot be very dealt with. The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and an object of the present invention is to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having no fluff, a sufficiently beautiful appearance, and an excellent texture.

[0010]

The woven and knitted fabric according to the present invention comprises:
Liquid flow treatment in which a material woven or knitted using short cellulosic fibers or a material woven or knitted using 35% by weight or more of cellulose short fibers and 65% by weight or less of other fibers is circulated together with a jetting solution. In the case where the treatment is carried out by the apparatus, the gist is that the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is a yarn twisted into an S twist at a twist angle of 15 to 30 degrees.

[0011]

Most conventional yarns containing short cellulosic fibers are composed of Z twist, and S twist yarns are special fabrics such as strong twist products that use both S twist and Z twist, and natural yarns in twill structure. It is only partially used in textiles that are mainly composed of fibers.

The present inventors have found the effectiveness of the S twist in the case of using an apparatus for circulating a woven or knitted fabric together with a jetting treatment liquid, and as a result of various studies, the present invention has been completed.

Generally, as a cause of fluff during liquid flow processing, the fluff inside the yarn is most often exposed on the surface during the liquid flow treatment, and other surface fibers of the yarn during the liquid flow treatment. There are cases in which fluff is generated by cutting, and cases in which fluff does not burn out. The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is
This is a solution to the above-mentioned causes, especially.

The treatment liquid ejected from the nozzle of the jet dyeing machine tends to form a vortex at the lower portion of the nozzle (portion C in FIG. 1), but this vortex is unavoidable on the earth (equator. Except directly below), in the Northern Hemisphere, it swirls to the left. The present inventors have found that this vortex is the cause of fluff generation.

The effect of this vortex extends to the yarn that has been twisted into a woven or knitted fabric, that is, the yarn that is constrained. When a Z-twisted yarn is affected by a left vortex, the twist of the Since the force acts in the untwisting direction, the yarn bundle is loosened, and the fluff inside the yarn is likely to appear on the surface. The effect of this eddy current is repeatedly applied to the woven and knitted fabric for dozens or hundreds of times during the processing, so that a large number of fluffs are generated. On the other hand, when the S-twisted yarn is used as in the present invention, since the spiral is in the twisting direction, generation of fluff is suppressed. This has been proved by experiments.

The experiment will be described below. S twist or Z
Using a twisted yarn as the warp yarn, a woven fabric of Sudare woven was prepared, and the jet treatment by a jet dyeing machine was repeated for 2 hours. As a result, the amount of fluff generated on both sides was overwhelmingly larger for the Z twist. Furthermore, when the liquid flow treatment was carried out using alkali, the difference in the amount of fluff generated reached several times that when no alkali was used.

Further, when the same experiment as described above was carried out on a normal woven fabric such as a plain woven fabric and a twill woven fabric using the S twisted and Z twisted yarns, the S twisted yarn was far more fluff than the Z twisted yarn. The result was low.

As can be seen from the above experiment, by making the yarn S-twist, the appearance of fluff from the inside of the yarn can be reduced very well. Moreover, since the eddy current is wound in the twisting direction, the fluff due to fiber breakage is also twisted, which reduces the number.

In order to effectively bring out the effect of the S twist as described above, the twist angle is preferably 15 to 30 degrees, more preferably 20 to 25 degrees. When the twisting angle is less than 15 degrees, the number of fluffs is less than that in Z twisting, but many fluffs still appear to be negligible. On the other hand, when the twisting angle exceeds 30 degrees, the twisting is increased. Since the effect commensurate with the high cost cannot be expected, the above range was set.

When the yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric is a double twisted yarn or a triple twisted yarn in which a plurality of yarns are twisted, the upper twist must be S twist. It goes without saying that when the yarn used for the woven or knitted fabric is a single yarn, the twist direction is S twist.

[0021]

[Examples] Six kinds of 100-wt% polynosic 80's / 2-used twin yarns twisted as shown in Table 1 below were prepared to prepare a plain woven fabric. Woven density is 100 warp / inc
h, horizontal 80 lines / inch.

[0022]

[Table 1]

Each of the above fabrics is quilled, and desizing, scouring, and alkali treatment are carried out by a conventional method using a jet dyeing machine of the same model (treatment with an aqueous solution of 10 g of NaOH having 48 Baume degree in 1 liter). Dyeing and finishing treatments were applied to each fabric and finished without tension.

Further, a single yarn of 40's / 1 blended yarn of 45% by weight of polynosic, 20% by weight of hemp and 35% by weight of polyester, and two kinds of twisted yarns as shown in the following Table 2 were prepared, and weaving density warp 130 / inch, horizontal 90 / inch 1/2
A twill fabric was produced.

[0025]

[Table 2]

Each of the above twill fabrics is quilled, desizing and scouring are performed using a jet dyeing machine of the same model, and then weight reduction processing (treatment in a 5% NaOH solution at 100 ° C. for 60 minutes). Then, polyester dyeing was performed, and after reduction washing, polynosic and hemp were dyed with a reactive dye. Subsequently, a softening agent was applied to finish without tension.

Evaluations of the woven and knitted fabrics after the treatment of the above-mentioned respective examples (woven fabric No. 1 to No. 3, No. 7) and comparative examples (woven fabric No. 4 to No. 6, No. 8) are shown in Table 3 below. Shown in. The evaluation method was as described below.

<Number of fluffs> Micro videoscope 10
The number of fluffs of 3 mm or more generated in the texture of the surface of the woven fabric of 5 warp yarns × 4 weft yarns was counted by observation at 0 × magnification.
The results were measured 10 times per sample, and shown as the average value.

<Degree of fibrillation> By observing the micro videoscope at a magnification of 500 times, the fibrillation occurring on the yarn surface on the woven fabric surface was confirmed, and after that, it was observed with the naked eye and the Ubu hair became white. The degree of presence was judged by a gray scale grade for fading. The 5th grade represents a state in which no fibrils were generated at all, and the 1st grade represents a state in which fibrils occurred frequently and the color appeared light.

<Appearance> Five women observed with naked eyes to determine unsightlyness due to fluff. 5 points were judged to be good for all 5 people, and the number of people who answered good was used as the evaluation point. The three points represent the degree of acceptance in common sense, and the points less than that indicate the degree that requires some kind of fluff correction processing.

[0031]

[Table 3]

As can be seen from the above results, unlike the comparative example, the example had less fluff and had a good appearance.
Further, in the examples, fibrils are also left, and there is no problem that the fibrils are first removed as in the conventional fluff correction processing method.

[0033]

As described above, in the woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention, since the yarn twisted into the S twist with the twist angle of 15 to 30 degrees is used, when the treatment using the jet dyeing machine is applied. However, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric in which generation of fluff is suppressed to a very small extent, and which exhibits soft and excellent texture and rich drape property in the case of treatment with a jet dyeing machine.
Also, there is little decrease in strength. Further, even in the case of producing a fibrillated woven or knitted product, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted product in which the appearance is not unsightly and the fibrils are sufficiently left.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic sectional view showing a jet dyeing machine.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Jet dyeing machine 2 Cloth 3 Treatment liquid 4 Nozzle 5 Treatment layer 6 Pipe 7 Liquid supply port

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A treatment liquid for ejecting a material woven or knitted using short cellulosic fibers or a material woven or knitted using 35% by weight or more of cellulose short fibers and 65% by weight or less of other fibers. A woven or knitted fabric processed by a liquid flow treatment device which is circulated together with the yarn, wherein the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is a yarn twisted into an S twist at a twist angle of 15 to 30 degrees.