JPH1143846A - Suede polyester textile fabric and production of the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a suede polyester textile fabric comprising the surface of a fabric with split fibers having multiple fineness from extremely fine fibers to fine fibers of diameters >=5 μm, exhibiting nubuck like suede appearance, having a soft drape, capable of dying in deep color excellent in color fastness to dyeing and abrasion resistance. SOLUTION: The alkaline hydrolysis treatment is carried out to the fabric at least composing the surface of the polyester fibers containing 0.1 to 8 wt.%. of an organic metal sulfonate, to form ten streak grooves per filament by highly orienting to the fiber axis direction of the fiber, raising the fabric with card clothing to split the fiber starting from the streak grooves to be split into fine fibers having diameters >=0.01 μm and having 10 fibers/1 cm<2> of fine fibers of >=5 μm diameters to allow the suede polyester fabric.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

[0001] The present invention relates to a suede-like polyester fiber fabric and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method for producing a suede-like fabric composed of ultrafine fibers, a sea component of a sea-island composite fiber of a fabric composed of a sea-island composite fiber is dissolved and removed, and the island component is left as an ultrafine fiber. The method also comprises partially dissolving or partially dissolving a structure composed of conjugate fibers obtained by conjugate spinning two or more polymers having different solvent solubility or hydrolyzability into a sea-island shape or a multi-layered shape. A method of performing embrittlement treatment to obtain partially split fibers and the like are known.

[0003] In these methods, a special compound spinning apparatus is required because spinning is performed by combining different components when producing fibers constituting a fabric, and a portion to be divided by melting or embrittlement is optional. However, there is a disadvantage that undivided fibers remain, and a difference in dyeing property between the divided fibers and the undivided fibers causes stain spots.

On the other hand, as a method for producing a nubuck-like fabric,
In Japanese Patent Publication No. 2-58374, a woven or knitted fabric composed of polyester fibers blended with an additive of an organic compound incompatible with polyester was subjected to an alkali hydrolysis treatment and a buffing treatment, and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric was microfibrillated. A method for forming fluff is disclosed.

However, the microfibrillated fluff in this method has an apparent diameter of 0.0
Since it is extremely thin in the range of 1 to 5 μm, it is difficult to dye it in a dark color, and the color fastness is low. In addition, extremely thin fluff has low abrasion resistance, and causes fluff to fall off due to abrasion and whitening of a worn portion.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a nubuck-like suede-like appearance having various splitting fibers having various thicknesses from extremely thin fine fibers to thick fine fibers having a diameter of more than 5 μm on the surface of the fabric. It is an object of the present invention to provide a suede-like polyester fiber cloth which has a soft texture, can be dyed in a dark color, is excellent in dyeing fastness, and is excellent in abrasion durability.

[0007]

According to the present invention, at least a polyester fiber constituting a fabric surface has a diameter of 0.01 μm.
a suede-like polyester fiber cloth characterized by having a surface in which 10 or more fine fibers having a diameter of more than 5 μm are present per 1 cm ² , split into fine fibers having a thickness of at least m.

And a general formula R—SO ₃ M (where R represents an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aryl or alkylaryl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, and M represents an alkali metal). 0.1 to 8
After performing alkaline hydrolysis treatment on a fabric having at least a fabric surface composed of polyester fibers containing 10% by weight to form streaky grooves highly oriented in the fiber axis direction of the polyester fibers at 10 or more locations per single fiber, A method for producing a suede-like polyester fiber cloth, characterized in that the cloth is subjected to a needle cloth raising treatment to split the polyester fiber into fine fibers starting from the streak grooves.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The suede-like polyester fiber cloth of the present invention has a structure in which at least the surface of a cloth such as a woven fabric or a knitted fabric is made of a polyester fiber, and the polyester fiber has a thickness of 0.01 μm or more. is Wari繊the fibers and 1cm is the thickness of the fine fibers having a diameter exceeding 5 [mu] m ² per
It has zero or more surfaces.

In the suede-like polyester fiber fabric of the present invention, the fine fiber having a diameter of 0.01 μm or more split from the polyester fiber has a suede appearance and a soft texture. The fine fibers having a diameter of more than 5 μm in the suede-like polyester fiber fabric of the present invention are hard to fall off due to abrasion, can be dyed in a deep color, and have excellent dyeing fastness. It is indispensable to give it to the fabric, and it is particularly preferable that there are 100 or more per 1 cm ² .

In the suede-like polyester fiber cloth of the present invention, the polyester fiber constituting the cloth has ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit and a general formula of R-SO ₃ M (where R is a carbon number of 3 to 30). An alkyl group, or an aryl group or an alkylaryl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, M represents an alkali metal), and may be a polyester fiber containing 0.1 to 8% by weight of a metal salt of an organic sulfonic acid represented by the following formula: preferable.

[0012] sueded polyester fiber fabric of the present invention has the general formula R-SO ₃ M (wherein, R is C3-30
Or an aryl group or an alkylaryl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, and M represents an alkali metal) at least in a polyester fiber containing 0.1 to 8% by weight of an organic sulfonic acid metal salt represented by the following formula: The fabric constituting the fabric surface is subjected to an alkali hydrolysis treatment to form streaky grooves highly oriented in the fiber axis direction of the polyester-based fiber at 10 or more locations per single fiber, and then the needle is subjected to a needle cloth raising treatment to obtain a polyester. It is manufactured by splitting a system fiber into fine fibers starting from the streak grooves.

[0013] The polyester fiber constituting the fabric is generally a polyester in which ethylene terephthalate is the main repeating unit, and where necessary, a part of terephthalic acid and / or ethylene glycol is replaced by another dicarboxylic acid and / or diol. formula R-SO ₃ M
A fiber made of a polyester polymer containing a metal salt of an organic sulfonic acid represented by the following formula is used.

General formula R contained in polyester fiber
As the organic sulfonic acid metal salt represented by —SO ₃ M,
For example, butylsulfonic acid, hexylsulfonic acid, octylsulfonic acid, decylsulfonic acid, laurylsulfonic acid, myristylsulfonic acid, palmotylsulfonic acid, sodium salts such as stearylsulfonic acid, potassium salts, lithium salts, toluenesulfonic acid, dodecylbenzene Examples thereof include sodium salts and potassium salts of sulfonic acid and the like, which are used alone or as a mixture, and preferably a mixture of alkyl sulfonic acid sodium salts having 12 to 17 carbon atoms.

General formula R contained in polyester fiber
The organic sulfonic acid metal salt represented by —SO ₃ M becomes an active site in alkaline hydrolysis when a fabric composed of polyester fibers is subjected to alkaline hydrolysis treatment, and the fiber axis of the polyester fibers It functions as an essential component for forming streak grooves highly oriented in the direction.

The content of the metal salt of organic sulfonic acid in the polyester fiber is 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight. If the grooves are insufficiently formed, and if the amount exceeds 8% by weight, the processability deteriorates.

The polyester fiber containing 0.1 to 8% by weight of the metal salt of an organic sulfonic acid represented by the general formula R-SO ₃ M is prepared from the polyester fiber containing the metal salt of an organic sulfonic acid represented by the general formula R-SO ₃ M Is added at any stage of producing a polyester-based polymer or added at a spinning stage, and the polyester-based polymer is produced by melt-spinning and drawing by a conventional method, and there is no particular limitation on a method for producing fibers. .

The above-mentioned polyester fiber containing an organic sulfonic acid metal salt is woven or knitted to form a whole or a whole or a part of the surface of the cloth with the polyester fiber containing an organic sulfonic acid metal salt. I do. The fabric may contain other fibers for the purpose of maintaining strength and the like in addition to the organic sulfonic acid metal salt-containing polyester fiber, and when the fabric contains other fibers, the purpose of the present invention is not impaired. The mixing ratio is desirably less than 80% by weight.

In the production of the suede-like polyester fiber cloth of the present invention, it is necessary to subject the cloth composed of polyester fibers containing a metal salt of an organic sulfonic acid to an alkali hydrolysis treatment. By the treatment, hydrolysis accompanied by elution of the organic sulfonic acid metal salt contained in the polyester fiber occurs, and a streaky groove highly oriented in the fiber axis direction is formed on the surface of the polyester fiber.

The number of the streaks is 10 or more per single fiber. If the number of the streaks is less than 10, sufficient splitting cannot be performed by the subsequent brushing of the needle cloth, and a soft texture cannot be obtained. The streaky grooves formed on the fiber surface preferably have a length of at least 5 μm and a width of at least 0.05 μm to facilitate splitting in the subsequent brushing process. The formation of the streaks at 10 or more locations can be achieved by subjecting the polyester-based fibers to an alkali hydrolysis treatment at a weight reduction rate of 10% by weight or more.

In the alkali hydrolysis treatment, alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide and alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide are used as alkaline compounds. , Amines such as triethanolamine, diethanolamine and monoethanolamine can also be used in combination.

As the alkali hydrolysis treatment method, the same method as that used for the alkali weight reduction processing of polyester fibers is generally applied, and the treatment conditions such as alkali concentration, temperature, immersion time and the like of the polyester fibers constituting the fabric are also used. It is appropriately adopted according to the content of the organic sulfonic acid metal salt, the fineness, the composition ratio in the fabric, and the like. As a treatment method, it is preferable to use a method in which a kneading action is added by contact between the fabrics or the fabric and the inner wall of the treatment device in an alkaline treatment liquid, and a liquid jet dyeing device is preferably used as the device.

Next, in the production of the suede-like polyester fiber cloth of the present invention, it is necessary to carry out a brush raising treatment on the cloth subjected to the alkali hydrolysis treatment. By this needle cloth raising treatment, the polyester fibers on the fabric surface are split into fine fibers having a diameter of 0.01 μm or more, starting from the streak grooves, and fine fibers having a diameter exceeding 5 μm are separated by 1 cm ^2. 10 or more per contact.

In the napping process, the length, thickness, material, shape, number, density, number of garment rolls, number of revolutions, etc. of the garment can be appropriately changed according to the structure and shape of the garment. The number of times of raising is different depending on the structure and shape of the fabric, the conditions of the needle cloth, the number of needle cloth rolls, and the like, but is preferably about 1 to 30 times.
The fabric obtained by the brush raising treatment has a nubuck-like suede appearance due to the fine fibers formed by splitting the surface.

[0025]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. The diameter and the number of the fine fibers by splitting and the wear durability of the fabric were measured as follows.

<Diameter and number of fine fibers> The surface of the fabric split into fine fibers is photographed by a scanning electron microscope, and the actual diameter of the fine fibers is calculated from the diameter of the fine fibers in the photograph and the photographic magnification. to seek, also, the number of fine fibers were obtained by conversion from the number and the photo magnification in the photographic field and the field per 1 cm ^2.

<Wear Durability> The cloth split into fine fibers was determined by a Martindale abrasion tester according to JIS L-1096, and the weight loss of the cloth due to abrasion was determined as the abrasion loss rate, and the abrasion durability performance was evaluated. The wear loss rate was calculated by the following equation. Wear loss rate (%) = [(T ₀ −T ₁ ) / T ₀ ] × 100 T ₀ : Fabric weight before wear (g) T ₁ : Fabric weight after wear (g) Wear frequency: 1000 times

(Example 1) A polyester fiber (100 denier / 72 filaments) obtained by adding 2% by weight of a mixture of sodium alkyl sulfonates having 12 to 17 carbon atoms to polyethylene terephthalate, melt-spinning and drawing by a conventional method, Polyethylene terephthalate fibers (30 denier / 8 filaments) containing no sodium alkylsulfonate mixture are used, and the composite yarn obtained by performing the entanglement treatment with air is used for the warp and the weft.
The weft is given a twist of 1800 T / M for S twist and 1800 T / M for Z twist to alternate S twist and two Z twists, and has a warp density of 132 threads /
The fabric was woven into a plain fabric at an inch weft density of 73 yarns / inch.

This fabric is scoured at 120 ° C. for 20 minutes,
After drying at 30 ° C. and heat setting at 170 ° C. for 90 seconds, using a liquid jet dyeing machine, a 20 g / liter aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, a bath ratio of 1:20, a temperature of 96 ° C., and an immersion time of 3
A 0 minute alkaline hydrolysis treatment was applied. The obtained woven fabric was reduced to a weight reduction rate of 22% by weight, and streaky grooves having a length of 5 μm or more were formed on the single fiber surface of the polyester fiber containing sodium alkyl sulfonate at an average of 20 places per single fiber. .

Next, the alkali-hydrolyzed woven fabric is passed through a needle napping machine (manufactured by Nankai Iron Works) to raise the number of times to 20 times, and the polyester fiber containing sodium alkylsulfonate on the surface of the woven fabric is narrowed starting from the streaks. Split into fibers. The obtained woven fabric has extremely thin fine fibers that are invisible to the naked eye and 170 fine fibers having a diameter exceeding 5 μm per 1 cm ² of the woven fabric surface, exhibit a nubuck-like suede appearance, and have a soft texture. While having a dry feeling and abrasion durability. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric, and FIG. 1 shows a scanning electron micrograph of the surface of the polyester fiber containing sodium alkyl sulfonate of the obtained woven fabric.

(Comparative Example 1) A woven fabric was treated in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the needle cloth was not raised.
The obtained woven fabric had no fine fibers on its surface, had a suede-like appearance, and had no soft texture at all. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric, and FIG. 2 shows a scanning electron micrograph of the surface of the polyethylene terephthalate fiber of the obtained woven fabric.

(Comparative Example 2) In Example 1, the alkaline hydrolysis treatment was carried out under the conditions of a 5 g / liter aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, a bath ratio of 1:30, a temperature of 96 ° C., and an immersion time of 25 minutes to a weight loss rate of 4% by weight. A needle cloth raising treatment was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except for the change. The surface of the polyester fiber containing sodium alkylsulfonate of the woven fabric before the napping brushing treatment has no streaks having a length of 5 μm or more, and fine fibers exist on the surface of the woven fabric obtained by the napping brushing treatment. Did not do. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric.

(Comparative Example 3) In Example 1, the alkaline hydrolysis treatment was carried out under the conditions of a 30 g / liter aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, a bath ratio of 1:30, a temperature of 96 ° C, and an immersion time of 50 minutes, to a weight loss rate of 40% by weight. A needle cloth raising treatment was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except for the change. The resulting woven fabric has fine fibers with a diameter of less than 5 μm on its surface, exhibits a nubuck-like suede appearance, and has a soft feeling and a dry feeling, but lacks abrasion durability remarkably. there were.
Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric.

[0034]

[Table 1]

[0035]

The suede-like polyester fiber cloth according to the present invention has various splitting fibers of various thicknesses from extremely thin fine fibers which are invisible to the naked eye to thick fine fibers exceeding 5 μm in diameter on the surface of the cloth. It has a nubuck-like suede-like appearance, has a soft texture, can be dyed in a dark color when dyed, has excellent dyeing fastness, and has excellent abrasion durability.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a scanning electron micrograph (× 350) of the surface of a polyester fiber containing sodium alkylsulfonate of a woven fabric according to Example 1.

FIG. 2 is a scanning electron micrograph (magnification: 350 times) of the surface of a polyethylene terephthalate fiber of a woven fabric according to Comparative Example 1.
It is.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification code FI D06M 11/84 // D06M 101: 32

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A polyester fiber constituting at least a fabric surface is split into fine fibers having a diameter of 0.01 μm or more, and a fine fiber having a diameter exceeding 5 μm is 1 cm.
A suede-like polyester-based fiber fabric having 10 or more surfaces per ^two . 2. The polyester fiber according to the general formula R-SO
0.1 M of an organic sulfonic acid metal salt represented by ₃ M (wherein R represents an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aryl group or an alkylaryl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, and M represents an alkali metal). The suede-like polyester fiber fabric according to claim 1, which contains 1 to 8% by weight. 3. A compound represented by the general formula R—SO ₃ M (where R represents an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aryl group or an alkylaryl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, and M represents an alkali metal). A fabric having at least a fabric surface composed of polyester fibers containing 0.1 to 8% by weight of a metal salt of an organic sulfonic acid to be subjected to an alkali hydrolysis treatment to provide highly oriented fibers in the fiber axis direction of the polyester fibers. A suede-like polyester fiber cloth characterized in that after forming at least 10 flute-shaped grooves per single fiber, the cloth is subjected to a needle cloth raising treatment to split the polyester fibers into fine fibers starting from the streaks. Manufacturing method.