JP3856620B2 - Spanish fabric - Google Patents

Description

【００１２】
式中、Ｒは炭素数３〜３０のアルキル基または炭素数７〜４０のアリール基もしくはアルキルアリール基、Ｍ₁およびＭ₂はアルカリ金属またはアルカリ土類金属、ｎは０〜２の整数を示す。
【００１３】
上記式において、Ｒがアルキル基またはアルキルアリール基であるときは、該アルキルは直鎖状でも分岐した側鎖を有していてもよい。特に減量後の微細孔形状の点からＲがアルキルアリール基であるアルキルアリールスルホン酸金属塩が好ましい。Ｍ₁およびＭ₂はナトリウム、カリウム、リチウム等のアルカリ金属、またはカルシウム、マグネシウム等のアルカリ土類金属であり、なかでもナトリウム、カリウム、マグネシウムが好ましい。
【００１４】
かかるスルホン酸化合物の好ましい具体例としては、アルキルスルホン酸ナトリウム、スルホイソフタル酸ナトリウム等があげられる。
【００１５】
また、上記スルホン酸化合物は１種のみ単独で使用しても、また２種以上併用してもよい。その添加時期はポリエステル繊維を製造するにあたり、該ポリエステルを溶融紡糸の吐出が修了する以前の任意の段階で良く、たとえばポリエステル原料中に添加配合しても、ポリエステル合成中に添加しても、また合成終了後から溶融吐出紡糸するまでの間に添加してもよい。いずれにしても、添加後溶融状態で混合されるようにするのが好ましい。
【００１６】
次に、本発明の布帛を構成するポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、糸長方向にマルチフィラメントとしての見掛けの太さ斑を有しており、その太部と細部との比が１．１以上であることが肝要である。
【００１７】
ここで、見掛けの太細比は以下の方法により測定する。即ち、布帛を構成する糸条を、少なくとも１０ｃｍの長さに亘って電子顕微鏡を用いて観察し、その電子顕微鏡画面上もしくは写真上で、最も糸が膨らんだ部分（太部）の幅と最も糸が集束した部分（細部）の幅との比を求める。
【００１８】
上記の、太部と細部との比が１．１未満の場合は、充分なスパナイズ感と均一なナチュラル外観が発現しない。また、太部と細部との長さには特に限定はないが、太部の長さが１０〜５０ｍｍで、隣接する太部／細部の糸長比が１／０．５〜１／３０であることが好ましい。
【００１９】
上記のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、例えば、マルチフィラメントを構成する各フィラメント間に、ランダムな繊度分布及びそれに起因する収縮分布を持たせることにより得ることができる。
【００２０】
この際の繊度分布は、１．１１〜４．４４ｄｔｅｘであることが好ましい。このような繊度分布を持たせることにより、各フィラメント間には沸水収縮率が３．０〜１５．０％のランダムな収縮斑が発現し、マルチフィラメントとしての見掛けの太さ斑が発現する。
【００２１】
また、上記のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、構成フィラメントがランダムな繊度分布を有しているので、太部と細部とが同一色に染色可能である。
【００２２】
ここで、同一色とは、形態差から太細の外観を認識することはできるが、染着差によりスラブ調の外観を呈するものではないということを意味する。
【００２３】
上記フィラメントは、丸断面であっても上述のナチュラル感、ドライ感を発現する事はできるが、三角（異型）断面の方が繊細なドライ感やスパナイズ外観を付与する面でより好ましい。また、吸汗・速乾といった快適性を発現させる場合にも三角（異型）断面の方が単繊維間の毛細管現象による水分の拡散性を発現しやすく好ましい。
【００２４】
上記のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、具体的には下記の方法により製造することができる。すなわち、前述のポリエステルを例えば２７５〜３００℃で紡糸口金から溶融吐出し、冷却固化した紡出糸条に油剤を付与し、インターレース付与装置でインターレースを付与した後、ポリエステルのガラス転移温度以下に設定した予熱ローラーおよび延伸ローラーを介して半延伸糸を一旦ワインダーに捲き取る。
【００２５】
次いで、得られた半延伸糸を、延伸速度５００〜１５００ｍ／分で、８０〜１１０℃に加熱した予熱ローラーおよび１７０〜２２０℃に設定した非接触式ヒータを経て、１．１〜２．０倍の延伸倍率で延伸し、さらに必要に応じて１５０〜２００℃に設定した接触式または非接触式ヒーターを経て、０．８〜１．２倍の延伸倍率で熱セットを施す事により得られる。
【００２６】
上記のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を用いて布帛を製造するには、必要に応じて適度な撚りを施し、所望の組織に織編すればよい。また、得られた布帛は必要に応じてリラックス、熱セット、アルカリ減量処理を施すことにより、従来の織編物では表現できなかった優れたナチュラルスパナイズ外観と、繊細なドライ感、さらにはフェミニンなシルエットが発現する。
【００２７】
なお、本発明は、新規なスパナイズ感、均一色のナチュラル外観、繊細なドライ感を有する布帛の製造を意図しているので、複雑な組織に織成・編成するのは好ましくなく、平織もしくはその変化組織、綾織もしくはその変化組織、サテン織等に織編成するのが好ましい。また、本発明の布帛を構成するポリエステル繊維の該布帛中に占める割合は、必ずしも１００％である必要はないが、優れたスパナイズ外観とナチュラル感、ドライ感を得るためにはその割合が多いほど好ましい。
【００２８】
さらに、上記のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を構成するフィラメントの表面に凹凸を付与することにより水の接触角度を低下させ、さらには単繊維間の毛細管現象による水分の拡散性を利用することにより、布帛そのものに吸汗性（吸水性）を持たせることも可能である。
【００２９】
【実施例】
以下、実施例をあげて本発明をさらに詳細に説明するが、本発明はこれらによって何ら限定されるものではない。
【００３０】
［実施例１］
炭素数が７〜２０で平均炭素数が８であるアルキルスルホン酸ナトリウムを０．７５重量％含有した固有粘度（３５℃のオルソクロロフェノール溶液で測定）が０．６５のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡糸口金から溶融吐出し、該吐出糸条を冷却固化させた後に油剤を付与し、次いでインターレースを付与した後に２３００ｍ／分の速度で引取り、３０００ｍ／分の速度で半延伸し、巻き取った。
【００３１】
得られた半延伸糸を、予熱ローラー温度９０℃、熱セットヒーター（非接触式）温度２００℃、延伸倍率１．４倍、延伸速度８００ｍ／分で延伸した後、熱セットヒーター（接触式）温度１７５℃、延伸倍率０．９８倍で熱セットして巻き取り、１２０ｄｔｅｘ／３６フィラメントの糸条を得た。
【００３２】
得られた糸条に１０００Ｔ／ｍの撚を付与したものを経糸及び緯糸に用い、経糸密度：７８本／２．５４ｃｍ、緯糸密度：６８本／２．５４ｃｍ、の規格にて平織り（ボイル）に織成した。次いで常法にしたがって精練、プレ熱セット、アルカリ減量加工（減量率１５％）、染色加工、ファイナル熱セットを施して仕上げた。
【００３３】
得られた布帛を構成するポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸の見掛けの太細比は１．５であり、布帛は均一に染色されていて、新規なスパナイズ感、ナチュラル外観、繊細なドライ感、フェミニンなシルエットといった高感性を呈し、且つ吸汗・速乾といった快適機能性にも優れたものであった。
【００３４】
［実施例２〜３、比較例１〜２］
実施例１において、半延伸糸の延伸倍率を種々変化させ、布帛を構成するポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸の見掛けの太細比を表１に示す如く変更した以外は実施例と同様に実施した。
【００３５】
得られた布帛を構成するポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸の見掛けの太細比及び布帛の評価結果を併せて表１に示す。なお、各評価項目及び総合評価は、極めて良好（優）、良好（良）、不良（不可）の三段階にランク付けし、総合評価は、布帛の柔らかさ（柔軟性）も加味して官能判定した。
【００３６】
【表１】

【００３７】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、従来見られなかった新規なスパナイズ感、均一色のナチュラル外観、繊細なドライ感、フェミニンなシルエットといった高感性を呈しながら、吸汗・速乾といった快適機能性に優れたポリエステル布帛を提供することがでる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a fabric excellent in sensitivity and functionality. More specifically, the present invention relates to a spanized fabric that exhibits high sensibility such as a novel spanization feeling, a uniform natural appearance, a delicate dry feeling, and a feminine silhouette, and excellent comfort functionality such as sweat absorption and quick drying.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In order to express the feeling of spanization with synthetic fibers, especially polyester fibers, the unstretched polyester yarn has been stretched non-uniformly, potentially (in the raw yarn stage, the fiber thickness cannot be visually recognized). A method of imparting thickness, and, apparently (at the stage of the original yarn, the thickness of the fiber can be recognized visually), a triple wound portion and a single fold where the sheath yarn is triple-wounded against the core yarn. There is known a method of alternately forming the turning portions.
[0003]
On the other hand, attempts to form micropores in the fiber to obtain a dry feeling have been reported. Furthermore, it has also been proposed to form a different shrinkage mixed yarn or a composite false twist yarn using such fibers to give the fabric a feeling of swelling and softness (soft feeling).
[0004]
However, a fabric composed of polyester fibers having such a conventional feeling of spanization and dryness is still inadequate in terms of the delicate dryness that is felt when touching the fabric, and is more delicate. The appearance of a polyester fabric having a dry feeling has been awaited.
[0005]
Further, when the polyester unstretched yarn is stretched non-uniformly to give a fine thickness, the thick portion is darker than the details due to dyeing, so that there is a problem that the natural appearance is lacking.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The object of the present invention is to solve such conventional problems, exhibit high sensitivity such as delicate dry feeling, novel spanization feeling, uniform natural appearance, feminine silhouette, and also comfortable functionality such as sweat absorption and quick drying. The object is to propose an excellent polyester fabric.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the present inventors have found that a polyester multifilament yarn in which the thick portion and the details can be dyed in the same color while having an apparent thickness difference in the yarn length direction. It has been determined that the desired fabric is obtained when using strips.
Thus, according to the present invention, a fabric composed of a polyester multifilament yarn having an apparent thickness ratio measured by the following method of 1.1 or more, wherein the polyester multifilament yarn is interlaced. A polyester multifilament yarn that is obtained by winding and drawing once, and each filament single yarn has a random fineness distribution in the fiber direction, and the thick part and the details can be dyed in the same color. A spun fabric is provided.
[0008]
(Measurement method of apparent thickness ratio)
The yarn constituting the fabric is observed with an electron microscope over a length of at least 10 cm, and the width of the most swollen part (thick part) and the most thread are observed on the electron microscope screen or photograph. Find the ratio to the width of the focused part (detail).
[0009]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
As the polyester in the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate having ethylene terephthalate units as repeating units is preferably used. If necessary, a small amount of the third component (usually 15 mol% or less, preferably 10 mols based on all repeating units). % Or less, particularly preferably 5 mol% or less) may be copolymerized copolyester, or a matting agent or other additives may be added.
[0010]
For example, those containing 0.3 to 15 mol% of the sulfonic acid compound represented by the following formula with respect to the bifunctional carboxylic acid component constituting the polyester form fine pores on the fiber surface when subjected to alkali weight loss treatment. This is preferable because a fabric having a delicate dry feeling can be obtained.
[0011]
[Chemical 1]

[0012]
In the formula, R is an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aryl group or alkylaryl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, M ₁ and M ₂ are alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, and n is an integer of 0 to 2. .
[0013]
In the above formula, when R is an alkyl group or an alkylaryl group, the alkyl may be linear or have a branched side chain. In particular, an alkylaryl sulfonic acid metal salt in which R is an alkylaryl group is preferred from the viewpoint of the micropore shape after weight reduction. M ₁ and M ₂ are alkali metals such as sodium, potassium and lithium, or alkaline earth metals such as calcium and magnesium, among which sodium, potassium and magnesium are preferable.
[0014]
Specific examples of such sulfonic acid compounds include sodium alkyl sulfonate and sodium sulfoisophthalate.
[0015]
Moreover, the said sulfonic acid compound may be used individually by 1 type, and may be used together 2 or more types. When the polyester fiber is produced, it may be added at any stage before the completion of the melt spinning discharge. For example, it may be added to the polyester raw material, added during polyester synthesis, You may add after completion | finish of a synthesis | combination until it carries out melt discharge spinning. In any case, it is preferable to mix in a molten state after addition.
[0016]
Next, the polyester multifilament yarn constituting the fabric of the present invention has an apparent thickness unevenness as a multifilament in the yarn length direction, and the ratio of the thick portion to the details is 1.1 or more. It is important.
[0017]
Here, the apparent thickness ratio is measured by the following method. That is, the yarn constituting the fabric is observed with an electron microscope over a length of at least 10 cm, and on the electron microscope screen or photograph, the width of the most swollen part (thick part) and the most Find the ratio to the width of the part (detail) where the yarns converge.
[0018]
When the ratio between the thick part and the details is less than 1.1, sufficient spanization feeling and uniform natural appearance are not exhibited. The length between the thick part and the detail is not particularly limited, but the length of the thick part is 10 to 50 mm, and the adjacent thick part / detail has a yarn length ratio of 1 / 0.5 to 1/30. Preferably there is.
[0019]
The above-mentioned polyester multifilament yarn can be obtained, for example, by giving a random fineness distribution and a shrinkage distribution resulting therefrom between the filaments constituting the multifilament.
[0020]
In this case, the fineness distribution is preferably 1.11 to 4.44 dtex. By giving such a fineness distribution, random shrinkage spots with a boiling water shrinkage of 3.0 to 15.0% appear between the filaments, and apparent thickness spots as multifilaments appear.
[0021]
Moreover, since the above-mentioned polyester multifilament yarn has a random fineness distribution, the thick portion and the details can be dyed in the same color.
[0022]
Here, the same color means that a thick and thin appearance can be recognized from a difference in form, but it does not exhibit a slab-like appearance due to a dyeing difference.
[0023]
Even if the filament has a round cross section, the above-mentioned natural feeling and dry feeling can be expressed, but a triangular (atypical) cross section is more preferable in terms of imparting a delicate dry feeling and a spanizing appearance. In addition, when expressing comfort such as sweat absorption and quick drying, a triangular (atypical) cross section is preferable because it tends to exhibit moisture diffusibility due to capillary action between single fibers.
[0024]
Specifically, the above-mentioned polyester multifilament yarn can be produced by the following method. That is, for example, the polyester described above is melted and discharged from a spinneret at 275 to 300 ° C., an oil agent is applied to the cooled and solidified spun yarn, interlace is applied by an interlace applying device, and then set to a glass transition temperature or less of the polyester. The semi-stretched yarn is once wound on a winder through the preheating roller and the stretching roller.
[0025]
Subsequently, the obtained semi-drawn yarn was passed through a preheating roller heated to 80 to 110 ° C. at a drawing speed of 500 to 1500 m / min and a non-contact heater set to 170 to 220 ° C., and then 1.1 to 2.0. It is obtained by stretching at a stretching ratio of 2 times, and further, through a contact type or non-contact heater set at 150 to 200 ° C. as necessary, and heat setting at a stretching ratio of 0.8 to 1.2 times. .
[0026]
In order to produce a fabric using the above-described polyester multifilament yarn, an appropriate twist may be applied as necessary and knitted into a desired structure. In addition, the obtained fabric is subjected to relaxation, heat setting, and alkali weight reduction treatment as necessary, so that it has an excellent natural spanish appearance that could not be expressed with conventional woven and knitted fabrics, a delicate dry feeling, and even a feminine feel. A silhouette appears.
[0027]
Since the present invention is intended to produce a fabric having a novel spanization feeling, a uniform natural appearance, and a delicate dry feeling, it is not preferable to weave and knitting into a complex structure. It is preferable to perform knitting into a change structure, a twill weave or a change structure thereof, a satin weave, or the like. Further, the proportion of the polyester fiber constituting the fabric of the present invention in the fabric is not necessarily 100%. However, in order to obtain an excellent spanized appearance, natural feeling, and dry feeling, the proportion is larger. preferable.
[0028]
Furthermore, by providing irregularities on the surface of the filament constituting the above-mentioned polyester multifilament yarn, the contact angle of water is lowered, and further by utilizing the diffusibility of moisture due to capillary action between single fibers, the fabric itself It is also possible to impart sweat absorbency (water absorbency).
[0029]
【Example】
EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated further in detail, this invention is not limited at all by these.
[0030]
[Example 1]
Polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.75% by weight of sodium alkyl sulfonate having 7 to 20 carbon atoms and an average carbon number of 8 having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 (measured with an orthochlorophenol solution at 35 ° C.) is obtained from the spinneret. After the melt was discharged and the discharged yarn was cooled and solidified, an oil agent was applied, and then an interlace was applied, and then it was taken up at a speed of 2300 m / min, semi-stretched at a speed of 3000 m / min, and wound up.
[0031]
The semi-drawn yarn obtained was drawn at a preheating roller temperature of 90 ° C., a heat set heater (non-contact type) temperature of 200 ° C., a draw ratio of 1.4 times, and a drawing speed of 800 m / min, and then a heat set heater (contact type). Heat setting was performed at a temperature of 175 ° C. and a draw ratio of 0.98 times, and winding was performed to obtain a 120 dtex / 36 filament yarn.
[0032]
The obtained yarn with a twist of 1000 T / m is used for warp and weft. Plain weave (voile) according to the specifications of warp density: 78 / 2.54 cm and weft density: 68 / 2.54 cm. Was woven. Subsequently, scouring, pre-heat setting, alkali weight reduction processing (weight loss rate 15%), dyeing processing, and final heat setting were performed in accordance with conventional methods.
[0033]
The apparent thickness ratio of the polyester multifilament yarn constituting the obtained fabric is 1.5, and the fabric is uniformly dyed, such as a novel spanization feeling, natural appearance, delicate dry feeling, feminine silhouette, etc. It exhibited high sensitivity and was excellent in comfortable functionality such as sweat absorption and quick drying.
[0034]
[Examples 2-3, Comparative Examples 1-2]
In Example 1, it carried out similarly to the Example except having changed the draw ratio of the semi-drawn yarn variously and changing the apparent thickness ratio of the polyester multifilament yarn constituting the fabric as shown in Table 1.
[0035]
Table 1 shows the apparent thickness ratio of the polyester multifilament yarn constituting the fabric and the evaluation results of the fabric. In addition, each evaluation item and comprehensive evaluation are ranked in three stages of extremely good (excellent), good (good), and poor (impossible), and the comprehensive evaluation is functional in consideration of the softness (flexibility) of the fabric. Judged.
[0036]
[Table 1]

[0037]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, a polyester fabric excellent in comfort functionality such as sweat absorption and quick drying while exhibiting high sensibility such as a novel spanization feeling, a natural appearance of uniform color, a delicate dry feeling, and a feminine silhouette that have not been seen conventionally. Can be provided.

Claims (2)

A fabric composed of a polyester multifilament yarn having an apparent thickness ratio of 1.1 or more measured by the following method , and after the polyester multifilament yarn has been interlaced, it is once wound and stretched Polyester multifilament yarn obtained by applying the yarn, the filament single yarn has a random fineness distribution in the fiber direction, and the thick portion and the details can be dyed in the same color Spanish fabric.
(Measurement method of apparent thickness ratio)
The yarn constituting the fabric is observed with an electron microscope over a length of at least 10 cm, and the width of the most swollen part (thick part) and the most thread are observed on the electron microscope screen or photograph. Find the ratio to the width of the focused part (detail). 2. The spanize fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester filament is a filament in which the contact angle of water is lowered by imparting irregularities to the surface thereof.