JPH0931779A - Multicolor melange spun yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a multicolor melange spun yarn, dyeable to an optional color without causing the bleeding or chalkiness, etc., at all by carrying out the ground dyeing according to the cationic dyeing in a state of a spun yarn or its state after forming into a woven or a knitted fabric and variously changing the color tone as a multicolor melange product by changing the ground color and readily adaptable even to the demand of diversified small-quantity production. SOLUTION: This multicolor melange spun yarn is obtained by uniformly mixing at least two raw cottons (A) prepared by fiber-dyeing acid-dyeable type acrylic fiber staples into different colors and carrying out the fixing processing, a raw cotton (B) containing cation-dyeable type acrylic fiber staples and other fibers (C) at 5-15wt.%:95-55wt.%:0-30wt.% mixing ratio of the raw cottons (A):raw cotton (B):other fibers (C).

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a multicolor melange spun yarn, and more particularly to a multicolor melange spun yarn that gives a woven / knitted fabric having a deep and excellent design by post-dying with a cationic dye. Is. In the present invention, the multicolor melange spun yarn means a mixed yarn in which staples constituting the spun yarn are colored in at least two different colors, and staples colored in different colors are spun yarns. The multicolored melange spun yarn is distributed in random lengths in the length direction and exhibits various color tones. By making this multicolored melange spun yarn into a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, various knits, sweaters, jerseys and the like can be produced. It can be widely used as clothing and various interior decoration items such as houses and vehicles.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A multicolor melange spun yarn is a spun yarn obtained by coloring the staples constituting the spun yarn in at least two kinds of colors (preferably three or more primary colors) and mixing them. Since different colors are randomly distributed in the longitudinal direction and have various color tones, they are widely used for various clothing and interior interior products as described above.

What is currently put into practical use as a method for producing such a multicolor melange spun yarn is to dye the staple in two or more colors of raw material in the state of raw cotton constituting the spun yarn. In this method, each raw cotton is mixed and spun at an appropriate ratio. And color matching of multicolor melange tone is
It is carried out by changing the color tone of each raw cotton dyed as a raw material and the blending ratio of raw cotton of different colors each time, so it is suitable for small-quantity / mass production, but for large-variety / small-quantity production. It is not suitable and has the drawback of being extremely expensive. However, in recent years, in the clothing field and interior field, there is a tendency toward high-mix low-volume production in order to adapt to various personal tastes, and it is difficult to deal with the above-mentioned conventional methods. Is.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Accordingly, the present inventors
First, two or more kinds of raw cotton dyed with an appropriate color by raw material dyeing are used as a mixed yarn, and in the state of the mixed yarn or in the state of being woven or knitted, the portion corresponding to the ground color is treated with a cationic dye or the like. An attempt was made to adopt a method of post-dyeing, and finally adjust to various color tones at the stage of the post-dyeing to meet the demand for high-mix low-volume production. However, when such a raw cotton pre-dyeing / ground color post-dyeing method is adopted, the dyeing of the pre-dyed color in the post-dyeing process in the mixed spun yarn (spun yarn) or woven / knit state It was not possible to obtain the intended multicolor melange product, which was eluted in the dyeing process and was mixed with the post-dyeing dye to become almost a single color). Therefore, in order to achieve the economical realization of high-mix low-volume production in order to adapt to the current trends in the clothing and interior fields, a new technology that can provide multi-color melange products by dyeing raw cotton and dyeing with background color. Need to be established.

The present invention has been made by paying attention to such a situation, and an object thereof is to provide a stable and excellent multicolor melange product and to industrially realize high-mix low-volume production. It is intended to provide such a multicolor melange spun yarn.

[0006]

The multicolor melange spun yarn according to the present invention, which has been able to solve the above problems, is at least two types obtained by dyeing acid dye dyeable acrylic fiber staples in different colors and fixing them. Raw cotton (A)
Raw cotton (B) and other fibers (C) containing acrylic dye staple type acrylic fiber staples, raw cotton (A): 5 to 15% by weight, raw cotton (B): 95 to 55% by weight, other fibers (C): The gist exists in the fact that it is a uniform mixed spinning with a mixing ratio of 0 to 30.

In the above invention, at least three kinds of raw cotton dyed with at least three primary colors are used as raw cotton (A), and the raw cotton has a flat cross section and a fiber diameter of 5 to 15 By using a denier yarn, it is possible to obtain a multicolor melange spun yarn having an excellent color tone. Further, this multicolor melange spun yarn can be subjected to background cation dyeing by post-dyeing in a state of the spun yarn or in a state of being a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, and the color at the time of the cation dyeing can be arbitrarily selected. Depending on the product, you can finish it in various colors.
It can be easily adapted to small-scale production.

[0008]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION As described above, in the multicolor melange spun yarn of the present invention, acid dye-dyeable acrylic fiber staples are dyed as raw materials in different colors, preferably at least three primary colors of red, blue and yellow, After that, at least two kinds of raw cotton (A) dyed and fixed by a fixing process and raw cotton (B) containing an acrylic fiber staple dyeable with a cationic dye are used, or if necessary, wool, cotton, It can be obtained by using other fibers (C) mainly composed of natural fibers such as hemp, and mixing these raw cottons (A) and (B) and, if necessary, other fibers (C).
This multicolor melange spun yarn is basically obtained by dyeing undyed raw cotton (B) and other fibers (C) with at least two different colors of acid dye dyeable acrylic fiber staple as described above. By mixing at least two kinds of raw cotton (A) thus mixed, basically, the raw cotton (A) mixed with uncolored raw cotton (B) and other fibers (C) has a multicolor melange tone. Show.

The multicolored melange spun yarn is post-dyed with a cationic dye in the spun yarn state or after the spun yarn is made into a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, whereby the uncolored raw cotton (B) or Other fibers (C) can be dyed to give a ground color, and by changing the color of the cationic dye used at the time of the post-dyeing, it can be colored to any ground color from light to dark. it can. Moreover,
The raw cotton (A) made of acrylic dye staple dyeable with an acid dye, which is colored by dyeing the raw material, is fixed and dyed and fixed before it is made into a spun yarn.
In the post-dyeing process, there is no "fog" due to dyeing with a cationic dye, and there is no "bleaching" due to elution in the cationic dyeing process, and therefore the original color tone of the dyed raw material is maintained. There is.

Therefore, in the state after the dyeing with the cationic dye, the portion of the raw cotton (B) dyed by the dyeing and the other fibers (C) constitutes the ground color, and the dyeing by the dyeing is 2 Although the color of the raw cotton (A) dyed more than one kind will remain as it is, it will have a melange tone,
The color tone as a whole varies significantly depending on the background color. Therefore, by selecting the ground color by selecting the state of the yarn after spinning, and further the color at the time of post-dyeing performed after making it into a woven or knitted product, a multicolor melange product exhibiting various color tones as a whole is obtained. It becomes possible.

As described above, the multicolor melange effect imparted by the yarn-dyed raw cotton (A) is effectively exhibited, and
In order to effectively develop the diversification of the background color by post-dyeing, it is necessary to set the blending ratio of the raw cotton (A), (B) and the other fiber (C) at the proper range during blending. The preferable blending ratio of the raw cotton (A): 5 to 15% by weight, the raw cotton (B): 95 to 55% by weight, the other fibers (C): 0 to 30, more preferably the raw cotton (A):
It is in the range of 10 to 15% by weight, raw cotton (B): 75 to 55% by weight, and other fibers (C): 15 to 30. If the blending ratio of the raw cotton (A) is too high, the dyeing of the raw cotton (A) is excessively dyed, and the raw cotton (B) and other fibers (C) that become the ground color are spun into the yarn. The blending ratio occupies relatively decreases, and not only the color tone and sharpness of the multicolor melange yarn represented by post-dyeing using a cationic dye tend to be insufficient, but it can be secured by post-dyeing. The variety of colors also seems to be insufficient.

That is, in the present invention, the raw cotton (A) to be dyed
One of the characteristics is that it can be used for a wide variety of products in small quantities by controlling the amount of blended fabrics to a small extent and changing the background color by post-dyeing so that various color tones can be obtained. To make full use of such characteristics,
The blended amount of raw cotton (A) to be dyed is 1 for the whole as described above.
It is desirable to keep it to about 5% by weight or less. However, when the blended amount of the raw cotton (A) is insufficient, the multicolor melange tone provided by the predyed raw cotton (A) becomes extremely dilute, and only a so-called mild marbling pattern is obtained. Since it becomes difficult to obtain the intended multicolor melange tone, it is necessary to set the blended amount of the raw cotton (A) to 5% by weight or more.

When the color to be dyed is a relatively light color system, a relatively large amount of the raw cotton (A) is preferably mixed, and when it is a relatively dark color system, a relative dye is used. Sufficient melange tone can be given by mixing a small amount of the raw cotton (A) with.

On the other hand, the raw cotton (B) is basically a part which constitutes the ground color of the spun yarn, and a fiber which can be post-dyed with a cationic dye is selected, and the main component thereof is a cationic dye-dyeable dye. Type acrylic fiber staples are selected,
Not all of them have to be cationic dyeable krylyl fiber staples, and in some cases, other fibers (C) capable of cationic dyeing, for example, other synthetic fibers can be used together. However, in order to effectively express various melange tones by making use of the multicolor melange by dyeing and changing the ground color by cation dyeing, the blended amount of raw cotton (B) in the total amount of spun yarn is 95
To 85% by weight, and the blended amount of other fibers (C) is 30
It is desired to control the content to be about wt% or less.

The color of the raw cotton (A) to be dyed in the above invention can give a multicolor melange tone if it is at least two colors, but it is more vivid and has a high designability. It is desirable to use at least three kinds of raw cotton (A) dyed with at least three primary colors as raw materials. By adjusting the blending ratio of each raw cotton dyed with raw materials with three different colors A colored melange spun yarn can be obtained. However, the dyeing is not limited to the three primary colors as mentioned above, but green,
It is of course possible to use the raw cotton (A) dyed in purple or brown.

There are no particular restrictions on the type or dyeing method of the direct dye used for dyeing the raw cotton (A), and all known dyeing methods using known direct dyes can be adopted. Examples of preferable dyes and dyeing methods are as follows. That is, a preferable direct dye is Direct Fast Yellow GC (Direct Fast Yellow) manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.
GC), Kayarus Light Red F5G manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.
(Kayarus Light Red F5G), Sumilight Supra Blue G manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd. and the like can be used, and the staining conditions are 100 to 1
10 ° C x 30-60 minutes, formic acid pH: 2-4, Glauber's salt 10-
About 20% owf is recommended as a preferable condition.

The fixing process carried out after the raw material dyeing of the raw cotton (A) is carried out by fixing the dyeing by the raw material dyeing and "fog" at the time of the post-dyeing using the cationic dye.
(Part of the dye remains in the dyed state, and the dye penetrates into part of the raw cotton (A) in the subsequent post-dyeing process, resulting in a dull color tone)
It is an indispensable treatment to prevent the occurrence of "color crying". Specifically, aromatic dyes such as Nylon Fix TH (manufactured by Nippon Senka Co., Ltd.) after dyeing raw materials with direct dyes. Using an anionic activator containing as a main component as a fixing agent, 10 to 20% owf, formic acid pH: 2
4, 100 to 110 ° C. × 60 to 120 minutes. However, the fixing process itself is not particularly new, and all known fixing processes can be used.

After the raw material dyeing and the fixing treatment, each of the dyed raw cotton (A) is mixed and spun at an arbitrary ratio according to the intended color tone, and these are mixed with the raw cotton (B) and optionally other fibers (C). ) Together with the above-mentioned ratio and subjected to a spinning treatment by a conventional method, the multicolor melange yarn of the present invention can be obtained. In this case, a large number of raw cotton (A) dyed in various colors are prepared at the stage of dyeing the raw materials, and by appropriately combining and using them according to the required color tone, a multicolor having a wide variety of colors can be obtained. It is possible to obtain a melange yarn.

In this spinning process, the raw cotton (A), which is the main component giving the multicolored melange tone, is more easily exposed to the surface side of the spun yarn so that the melange tone can be more effectively developed. It is preferable to use a fiber having a flat cross section, and it is preferable to use a fiber having a fiber diameter in the range of 5 to 15 denier. The degree of flatness of the cross section is preferably such that the ratio of the short diameter to the long diameter of the fiber cross section is in the range of 1: 6 to 15, more preferably in the range of 1: 8 to 10. The flat cross section includes not only those having an elliptical or oval cross section, but also so-called eyebrows, but the oval cross section is particularly preferable among these. Fibers having such a flat cross section have, for example, a spinning nozzle having an elliptical or oval cross section, or a spinning nozzle provided with two circular cross sections adjacent to each other, having a denier of 100 to 1.1 million and a spinning speed of 11
Spin at 5 to 120 m / min, heat treatment temperature 115 to 120
It can be easily produced by stretching at a stretch ratio of 1.05 to 1.10. From this point of view also, in the present invention, it is desirable to select and use acrylic staples because the cross-sectional shape of fibers and the fiber diameter can be easily adjusted at the manufacturing stage.

On the other hand, the cross-sectional shape and fiber diameter of the raw cotton (B) and other fibers (C) are not particularly limited, and a circular cross section, an eyebrow cross section, an elliptical cross section, an oval cross section, etc. can be used. The most common is of generally circular cross section.

In the thus obtained multicolor melange yarn of the present invention, only the raw cotton (A) is basically dyed, and the raw cotton (B) and other fibers (C) used in combination are the undyed ground color. It is, of course, possible to commercialize the spun yarn as it is, but preferably, in the spun yarn state or in the woven or knitted state of the spun yarn, the undyed background color portion is changed to an arbitrary color by cation dyeing. When dyed, the multicolored melange yarn and its woven / knitted products will have significantly different color tones due to the difference in the background color, and it will be possible to realize high-mix low-volume production.

There are no particular restrictions on the type of dye used for cation dyeing or the dyeing method employed at this time, but preferable dyes and dyeing methods are as follows. That is, as a preferable cationic dye, Cathilon Yellow K-3RLH (Cathilon Yellow K-3RLH manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.) is used.
H), Cathilon Red K-GLH (Cathilon Red K-
GLH), Catillon Blue K-GLH (Cathilon Blue
K-GLH) and the like, and preferable dyeing methods include a cationic dye 0.5 to 2.0% owf, a cationic type slow-dyeing agent (for example, "Astra Girl PAN" manufactured by Bayer Japan KK) 1.0 to 2 0.5% owf, acetic acid pH: 4 to
5, sodium acetate: 0.5 to 1.0% owf, dispersant (for example, "Aboran IW" manufactured by Bayer Japan Co., Ltd.) 0.3
The conditions are, for example, 0.5 to 0.5 g / l and 100 to 110 ° C. for 30 to 60 minutes. However, since the present invention is not limited to the cationic dye and the dyeing method itself, various known dyeing methods using various cationic dyes can be appropriately selected and adopted.

[0023]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples, but may be appropriately adjusted within a range that can conform to the purpose of the preceding and following examples. Modifications can be made and all are included in the technical scope of the present invention.

Example 1 Acid dye dyeable acrylic fiber staples (trade name "Type H" manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd., major axis 109.1 μm, minor axis 10.
10 denier acrylic fiber staple having an oval cross section of 9 μm) is used as raw cotton (A) and dyed into yellow, peach, red, blue, green and purple with direct dye, and then nylon fix TH is applied to each. Raw cotton (A) dyed after being fixed and dried using (manufactured by Nippon Dyeing Co., Ltd.)
I got

The raw material dyed raw cotton (A) thus obtained was combined in a mixture as shown in Table 1, and the undyed cationic dye dyeable acrylic fiber staple (“Type K” manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd.) was used.
Or C ", a 2 to 5 denier acrylic fiber staple having a substantially circular cross section) and spun by a conventional method to produce a multicolor melange yarn.

The appearance of the obtained melange yarn is as shown in Table 1. In Comparative Examples (No. 1 and 2) in which the blended amount of the raw cotton (A) is less than the specified range of the present invention, the raw cotton (A) is used. Comparative Example (No. 10, No. 10, in which the blending amount of the raw cotton (A) was too large because the melange effect was not sufficiently exhibited due to insufficient coloring by
In 11), the overall shade becomes too dark, and it becomes difficult to obtain a satisfactory melange tone. In the case of blending the proper blended amount of raw cotton (A) with respect to these, all have a melange tone although there are shades in the color arrangement.

Further, among the examples, the one in which the blending amount of the dark-colored pre-dyed cotton is suppressed to a small amount and the ratio of the light-colored pre-dyed cotton is increased (Nos. 8 and 9), the spinning with a very high melange effect is obtained. The thread is obtained.

A knitted fabric was prepared using each of the spun yarns obtained above, and the knitted fabric was prepared with a cationic dye (“Hozenya Kagaku Co., Ltd.“ Aizen Catylone Dye ”: a blue dye or a company's“ Aizen Catylone Dye ”. : A ground color is dyed by post-dying with a gold color dye) to obtain a multicolor melange knitted fabric with a blue or gold ground color.

The appearance of each of the obtained post-dyed melange knitted fabrics is also as shown in Table 1, and in Comparative Examples (Nos. 1 and 2) in which the blended amount of the raw cotton (A) was less than the specified range of the present invention, In contrast to the color, the dyeing raw cotton (A) is not sufficiently colored, so that the melange effect is not sufficiently exhibited, while in the comparative example (No. 10, 11) in which the amount of the yarn-dyed raw cotton (A) is too large, The tint caused by the dyed raw cotton becomes too dark for the background color, and it becomes difficult to obtain a satisfactory melange tone. In the case of blending the proper blended amount of raw cotton (A) to these, it was confirmed that the multi-coloring by the yarn-dyed raw cotton was effectively utilized for each ground color, and that all exhibited excellent melange tone. It was In this post-dyeing process, the "dyeing" of the pre-dyeing dye and the "fog" of the post-dyeing dye were not observed at all.

[0030]

[Table 1]

Example 2 As raw cotton (A), 3,5,10,15 denier acid dye-dyeable acrylic fiber staples (manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd., each having a long diameter / short diameter ratio of about 8/1 are oblong). Was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 above, and then subjected to a fixing treatment, the same color combination as No. 9 in Table 1 was adopted, and the same undyed cation used in Example 1 was used. Dye-dyed acrylic fiber staples and other fibers (hairs) were mixed and spun. Using each of the obtained multicolor melange spun yarns, knitting was performed in the same manner as above to produce a multicolor melange knit. Also, in this multicolored melange knit,
The background color was dyed with a cationic dye in the same manner as above to obtain a ground color dyed multicolor melange knitted fabric.

With respect to each of the obtained multicolor melange knits, a different color effect (melange-like sharpness), a texture (softness of color tone and touch), and a feeling of fairy (quality of fluffy state)
Was sensory evaluated. The results are as shown in Table 2, and it can be seen that the properties as a knitted fabric are the best by using 10 denier or 15 denier as the yarn-dyed raw cotton (A).

[0033]

[Table 2]

Example 3 To investigate the influence of the cross-sectional shape of the yarn-dyed raw cotton (A),
Production of multicolored melange spun yarn with no ground color dyeing, production of knitted knitted fabric, and the same process as in Example 1 except that acid dye dyeable acrylic fiber staples (made by Toyobo Co., Ltd.) having different cross-sectional shapes were used. Dyed a cationic dye after dyeing at night and examined the knitting properties of each.

The results are shown in Table 3. As the raw cotton (A) giving a multicolored melange tone, the one having the flat cross section was used, so that the characteristics as the multicolored melange knitted fabric were the most excellent. You can see that it can be something.

[0036]

[Table 3]

[0037]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The present invention is constituted as described above, and at least two kinds of raw cotton (A) in which acid dye-dyeable acrylic fiber staples are dyed in different colors and fixed
To obtain a multicolor melange yarn having various color tones by mixing and spinning a raw cotton (B) containing acrylic fiber staples that can be dyed with a cationic dye (B) and optionally other fibers (C) into a spun yarn. You can Moreover, the raw cotton (A), which gives a melange effect in this multicolor melange yarn, is devised so as not to cause "fog" or "color tearing" after the dyeing by the fixing process after the dyeing of the raw material. By performing background color dyeing by cation dyeing in the state of or after making it into a woven or knitted fabric, it is possible to dye in any color without causing "fog" or "color tearing". By changing the color, the color tone as a multicolor melange different product can be changed in various ways, and it is possible to easily meet the demand for high-mix low-volume production.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. At least two kinds of raw cotton (A) obtained by dyeing acrylic dye staples dyeable with an acid dye in different colors as raw materials and processed with a fix, raw cotton containing acrylic fiber staples dyeable with a cationic dye (B) and others. Fiber (C) of 5 to 15% by weight of raw cotton (A), 95 to 55% by weight of raw cotton (B), and 0 to other fibers (C)
A multicolored melange spun yarn, characterized in that it is uniformly spun at a blending ratio of 30. 2. The multicolor melange spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the raw cotton (A) is at least three types of raw cotton dyed in at least three primary colors. 3. The multicolor melange spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the raw cotton (A) has a flat cross section and a fiber diameter of 5 to 15 denier. 4. The multicolor melange spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is dyed with a cationic dye.