JP4058689B2 - Spun yarn for frost land and dyeing method thereof - Google Patents

Spun yarn for frost land and dyeing method thereof Download PDF

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JP4058689B2
JP4058689B2 JP2003291479A JP2003291479A JP4058689B2 JP 4058689 B2 JP4058689 B2 JP 4058689B2 JP 2003291479 A JP2003291479 A JP 2003291479A JP 2003291479 A JP2003291479 A JP 2003291479A JP 4058689 B2 JP4058689 B2 JP 4058689B2
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spun yarn
dyeing
dye
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五男 倉橋
誠 川村
博昭 谷邊
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Fujibo Holdins Inc
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本発明は二種類のカチオン化改質剤を用いて夫々にカチオン化改質した二種類の原繊と、未改質の原繊の三者を混繊した後、紡績糸を製造し、該紡績糸をアニオン染料で染色することにより多色相の霜降(Melange、以下メランジと記載する)の効果を広範囲の色相と色彩で表現できる後染可能なメランジ用紡績糸とその染色方法に関する。   In the present invention, after mixing two kinds of raw fibers, each of which is cationized and modified using two kinds of cationization modifiers, and three unmodified raw fibers, a spun yarn is manufactured, The present invention relates to a melange spun yarn that can be post-dyed and capable of expressing the effect of multi-colored frosting (hereinafter referred to as melange) in a wide range of hues and colors by dyeing the spun yarn with an anionic dye.

付加価値の高い繊維製品の創出を目的に、繊維製品に多色相柄表現を施す生産システムの検討は従来から行われている。
現在でも、同一素材を用いて多色相柄を表現する生産方式は、紡績糸を目的の色相に染色した後、複数の染色された糸を組合せて交編織する、所謂「先染」の方法が主流となっている。この方法は主としてセルロ−ス系繊維製品に応用されているが、デザイン、配色の決定から繊維製品が完成するまでに多くの時間を要すること、染色済の紡績糸である原材料の長期在庫リスクが増大する等の欠点があり、その改善が古くから求められていた。この問題を解消するために、異種素材を組合せて交編織された繊維製品を、素材の染色性の差を利用して順次あるいは同浴で異種染料を添加して染色する、所謂「後染」の方法が提案されている。
For the purpose of creating high-value-added textile products, production systems that apply multi-hue patterns to textiles have been studied.
Even now, the production method that expresses multi-hue patterns using the same material is a so-called “dye-dying” method in which a spun yarn is dyed to a target hue and then combined with a plurality of dyed yarns. It has become mainstream. This method is mainly applied to cellulose fiber products, but it takes a lot of time from design and color determination to completion of the fiber products, and there is a long-term inventory risk of raw materials that are dyed spun yarns. There are drawbacks such as an increase, and improvements have been demanded for a long time. In order to solve this problem, so-called “post-dyeing”, in which textile products knitted and knitted by combining different materials are dyed sequentially or by adding different dyes in the same bath using the difference in dyeability of the materials. A method has been proposed.

具体的には、異素材として木綿繊維とポリエステル繊維、再生セルロ−ス繊維とアクリル繊維、木綿繊維とポリエステル繊維とナイロン繊維等の組み合せで染色がなされている。しかし、合成繊維等の異種素材とセルロ−ス系繊維の組み合せでは、セルロ−ス素材の特徴である自然で柔軟な風合等の特色が充分に実現できない欠点がある。このような観点から、セルロ−ス系繊維のみの組み合せで、カチオン化綿とカチオン化未処理綿又はそれらの糸を用いた編織製品を後染で異染化、霜降り、杢調効果を発現することが可能であることが開示されている。(例えば、非特許文献1参照。)しかしながら、このような処理による製品は、アニオン染料に対する染色性の差を利用するところが特徴であり、二色相以上に表現した製品を得ることは不可能であった。単一素材で二色相以上の多色相表現を可能とするには、更に染色機構を検討し、後染で染色堅牢度の優れた新たなセルロ−ス系繊維を得、このものを組み合せることが必要である。   Specifically, dyeing is performed using a combination of cotton fibers and polyester fibers, recycled cellulose fibers and acrylic fibers, cotton fibers, polyester fibers, and nylon fibers as different materials. However, the combination of different types of materials such as synthetic fibers and cellulose-based fibers has a drawback that the characteristics such as natural and soft texture that are characteristic of cellulose materials cannot be realized sufficiently. From such a point of view, a combination of cellulose fibers alone is used, and knitted products using cationized cotton and cationized untreated cotton or their yarns are dyed with post-dyeing, marbling, and producing a gradation effect. It is disclosed that it is possible. (For example, see Non-Patent Document 1.) However, a product obtained by such treatment is characterized by utilizing a difference in dyeability with respect to an anionic dye, and it is impossible to obtain a product expressed in two or more hues. It was. To make it possible to express multiple hues of two or more hues with a single material, further study the dyeing mechanism, obtain new cellulose fibers with excellent dyeing fastness by post-dyeing, and combine them. is required.

出願人は、同一のセルロ−ス系素材でありながら繊維そのものを改質することで染色性に差のあるナフト−ル可染改質再生セルロ−ス繊維を発明した。(特許文献1参照。)このナフト−ル可染改質再生セルロ−ス繊維とカチオン化改質セルロ−ス繊維及び通常のセルロ−ス繊維の三種を選定し、これらの三種の繊維を混繊した後、紡績糸を製造し特定のアニオン染料で染色することで二色相のメランジ糸とすることが可能なことを発明し、特願2002−147495号として出願した。しかしながら、セルロ−ス系素材(同系素材)という大きな分類ではなく完全な単一素材(例えば、木綿繊維)による多色相可染メランジ糸は実現出来なかった。
「ビュ−ラインとその展開」(福岡淳一著「繊維加工」増刊捺染手帳24、VOL.38,1986,32頁〜37頁) 特開2003-3322号公報(第2頁、2欄)
The applicant has invented a naphthol dye-modified regenerated cellulose fiber having a difference in dyeability by modifying the fiber itself while being the same cellulose-based material. (See Patent Document 1.) Three types of this naphthol dyeable modified recycled cellulose fiber, cationized modified cellulose fiber and normal cellulose fiber are selected, and these three types of fibers are mixed. After that, it was invented that a spun yarn can be produced and dyed with a specific anionic dye to obtain a two-colored melange yarn, and was filed as Japanese Patent Application No. 2002-147495. However, it was not possible to realize a multi-color dyeable melange yarn using a complete single material (for example, cotton fiber) rather than a large classification of cellulose-based material (similar material).
"View line and its development" (Fukuoka Junichi "Textile Processing" extra printing notebook 24, VOL. 38, 1986, pp. 32-37) JP 2003-3322 A (2nd page, 2nd column)

本発明は、単一の天然素材で多色相のメランジの効果を広範囲の色相と色彩で表現できるメランジ用紡績糸、及びその染色方法を提供することにある。   An object of the present invention is to provide a spun yarn for melange that can express the effect of melange of multiple hues with a single natural material in a wide range of hues and colors, and a dyeing method thereof.

本発明者等は上記課題を解決すべく鋭意検討した結果、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤と疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いて夫々にカチオン化改質した原繊は、染色性に大きな差があり、それぞれを酸性染料で染色すると両者への固着率が顕著に異なることを見出し、これらの二種類のカチオン化改質した原繊に未改質の原繊を加え、三者を混繊した後紡績糸となし、アニオン染料で染色することで広範囲の色相と色彩をメランジで表現することが出来たものである。   As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have used a cationization modifier having a high hydrophobic group composition ratio and a cationization modifier having a low hydrophobic group composition ratio, respectively. The raw fibers have a large difference in dyeability, and when they are each dyed with an acid dye, it is found that the fixing rate to both is remarkably different, and these two types of cationized modified raw fibers are unmodified. After adding the original fiber and blending the three, it was made into a spun yarn and dyed with an anionic dye, so that a wide range of hues and colors could be expressed in melange.

即ち、本発明の紡績糸は、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、未改質の原繊を混繊してなるメランジ用紡績糸である。疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤としては、一般式(1)   In other words, the spun yarn of the present invention is cationized using a fibrillated cationized modifier using a cationization modifier having a high percentage of hydrophobic groups and a cationization modifier having a low percentage of hydrophobic groups. It is a spun yarn for melange made by blending modified and unmodified raw fibers. As a cationization modifier having a high percentage of hydrophobic groups, the general formula (1)

Figure 0004058689
(但し、Rは炭素数が8〜18のアルキル基、フェニル基又はフェニルメチル基であり、Xはハロゲン基である。)で示されるカチオン化改質剤を用い、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤としては、一般式(2)
Figure 0004058689
(Wherein R 1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, a phenyl group or a phenylmethyl group, and X is a halogen group.) As a low cationization modifier, the general formula (2)

Figure 0004058689
(但し、Rは炭素数が1〜3のアルキル基であり、Xはハロゲン基である。)あるいは一般式(3)
Figure 0004058689
(Wherein R 2 is an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and X is a halogen group.) Or general formula (3)

Figure 0004058689
(但し、Xはハロゲン基であり、nは2〜12の整数を表す。)で示されるカチオン化改質剤を用いる。本発明の上記霜降地用紡績糸は、酸性染料と反応染料で染色することにより霜降り状外観を表現するメランジ用紡績糸を得ることが出来、更に、該紡績糸を酸性染料と反応染料と直接染料で染色することにより、より複雑な色相を有する霜降り状外観を表現するメランジ用紡績糸を得ることが出来る。
Figure 0004058689
(However, X is a halogen group and n represents an integer of 2 to 12). The above-mentioned spun yarn for frost landing according to the present invention can obtain a spun yarn for melange that expresses a marbling appearance by dyeing with an acid dye and a reactive dye. Further, the spun yarn is directly combined with an acid dye and a reactive dye. By dyeing with a dye, it is possible to obtain a melange spun yarn expressing a marbling appearance having a more complex hue.

二種類のカチオン化改質剤を用いて原繊をカチオン化改質したので酸性染料の染着性に著しい差が生じ、また、未改質の原繊を混合することにより、多色染可能な霜降地用紡績糸が得られるので、一工程の染色により多色相の霜降地を任意の色調に染色でき、同一素材を使用するので、素材の有する特性を損なわずに多色相の繊維製品を得ることが出来る。   Since the raw fiber is cation-modified using two types of cationization modifiers, there is a significant difference in the dyeing properties of acid dyes, and multicolor dyeing is possible by mixing unmodified raw fiber As a result, we can dye multi-colored frosty ground in any color tone and use the same material, so we can make multi-colored textile products without damaging the properties of the material. Can be obtained.

本発明でいう紡績糸の素材とは、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤と反応できる官能基を有する素材であれば特に制限はなく、綿、麻等の植物繊維、羊毛、絹等の動物繊維、ビスコ−スレ−ヨン、銅アンモニアレ−ヨン、溶剤紡糸セルロ−ス繊維等の再生セルロ−ス繊維から選ばれた単一素材を用いることができる。木綿繊維を用いる場合は、未処理の木綿繊維より薬剤の浸透がよい精練・漂白した木綿繊維がより好ましい。   The material of the spun yarn referred to in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a material having a functional group capable of reacting with a cationization modifier having a high hydrophobic group composition ratio and a cationization modifier having a low hydrophobic group composition ratio. Single material selected from plant fibers such as cotton and hemp, animal fibers such as wool and silk, recycled cellulose fibers such as viscose rayon, copper ammonia rayon, solvent-spun cellulose fiber, etc. Can be used. When cotton fibers are used, scoured and bleached cotton fibers that have better drug penetration than untreated cotton fibers are more preferred.

本発明でいう、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤は、一般式(1)

Figure 0004058689
(但し、Rは炭素数が8〜18のアルキル基、フェニル基又はフェニルメチル基であり、Xはハロゲン基である。)で示され、例えば、3−クロロ−2−ヒドロキシジメチルドデシルアンモニウムクロライドが挙げられ、商品名としてCDDA[四日市合成(株)製)、HLA(阪本薬品工業(株)製]があり、これらを用いることができる。 The cationization modifier having a high constitutional ratio of hydrophobic groups referred to in the present invention is represented by the general formula (1).
Figure 0004058689
Where R 1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, a phenyl group or a phenylmethyl group, and X is a halogen group. For example, 3-chloro-2-hydroxydimethyldodecyl ammonium chloride There are CDDA (manufactured by Yokkaichi Gosei Co., Ltd.) and HLA (manufactured by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) as trade names, and these can be used.

その処理方法は、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤と反応触媒の混合水溶液をpH10から13.5に調整し、処理対象の原繊を浴比1:5〜1:30、温度50〜80℃で60分間処理した後、洗浄、中和、洗浄、油剤処理を行った後脱水・乾燥を行う方法を採ればよい。疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤の処理濃度は、特に限定しないが、未改質の繊維との間の濃淡差または異色相に染色される他の改質繊維とのコントラストに応じて1.0g/l〜20.0g/lの範囲で適宜設定することができる。処理濃度が1.0g/l未満の場合はカチオン基の導入が少なくなるので未改質の原繊との間で同色相の濃淡の差が小さくなり好ましくなく、20.0g/lを超える場合は濃く染色される部分のカチオン化改質剤の反応量が飽和されるのに対して、淡く染色される部分のカチオン化改質剤の反応量が多くなる結果、同色相の濃淡差が小さくなるので好ましくない。   In the treatment method, a mixed aqueous solution of a cationization modifier and a reaction catalyst having a high percentage of hydrophobic groups is adjusted to pH 10 to 13.5, and the raw fiber to be treated is bath ratio 1: 5 to 1:30, temperature. After treatment at 50 to 80 ° C. for 60 minutes, washing, neutralization, washing, and oil agent treatment may be performed followed by dehydration and drying. The treatment concentration of the cationization modifier having a high percentage of hydrophobic groups is not particularly limited, but it depends on the contrast with other modified fibers that are dyed in shades or different hues from unmodified fibers. In the range of 1.0 g / l to 20.0 g / l. When the treatment concentration is less than 1.0 g / l, since the introduction of cationic groups is reduced, the difference in shade of the same hue with the unmodified raw fiber is undesirably small, and the concentration exceeds 20.0 g / l. In contrast, the reaction amount of the cationization modifier in the portion that is dyed darkly is saturated, whereas the reaction amount of the cationization modifier in the portion that is dyed lightly increases, resulting in a small difference in shade of the same hue. This is not preferable.

本発明でいう、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤は、一般式(2)

Figure 0004058689
(但し、Rは炭素数が1〜3のアルキル基であり、Xはハロゲン基である。)、あるいは一般式(3) In the present invention, the cationization modifier having a low composition ratio of the hydrophobic group is represented by the general formula (2).
Figure 0004058689
(Wherein R 2 is an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and X is a halogen group), or general formula (3)

Figure 0004058689
(但し、Xはハロゲン基であり、nは2〜12の整数を表す。)で示され、一般式(2)の化合物としては、例えば、3−クロロ−2−ヒドロキシプロピルトリメチルアンモニウムクロライドが挙げられ、商品名としてカチオンマスターC[四日市合成(株)製]、COPA−60[三菱ガス化学(株)製]、ワイステックスN−50[ナガセケムテックス(株)製]があり、これらを用いることができる。また、一般式(3)の化合物としては、例えば、1,6ビス−(3−クロロ−2−ヒドロキシジメチルアンモニウム)ヘキサンジクロライドが挙げられ、商品名としてカチオノンUK[一方社油脂工業(株)製]があり、これを用いることができる。その処理方法は、一般式(2)あるいは一般式(3)のカチオン化改質剤と反応触媒の混合水溶液をpH10から13.5に調整し、処理対象の原繊を浴比1:5〜1:30、温度50〜80℃で60分間処理した後、洗浄、中和、洗浄、油剤処理を行った後脱水・乾燥を行う方法を採ればよい。
Figure 0004058689
(However, X is a halogen group, n represents the integer of 2-12.) As a compound of General formula (2), 3-chloro- 2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is mentioned, for example. There are Cation Master C [manufactured by Yokkaichi Gosei Co., Ltd.], COPA-60 [manufactured by Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Co., Ltd.], WISTEX N-50 [manufactured by Nagase ChemteX Corporation] as trade names, and these are used. be able to. Moreover, as a compound of General formula (3), 1, 6 bis- (3-chloro- 2-hydroxydimethyl ammonium) hexane dichloride is mentioned, for example, Cationone UK [one company oil and fat industry Co., Ltd. product is mentioned as a brand name. ], Which can be used. The treatment method is to adjust the mixed aqueous solution of the cationization modifier of the general formula (2) or the general formula (3) and the reaction catalyst to a pH of 10 to 13.5, and the raw fiber to be treated has a bath ratio of 1: 5 to 5. After treatment at 1:30 and a temperature of 50 to 80 ° C. for 60 minutes, after washing, neutralization, washing and oil agent treatment, dehydration and drying may be employed.

疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤の処理濃度は、特に限定されないが、未改質の繊維との間の濃淡差または異色相に染色される他の改質繊維とのコントラストに応じて、一般式(2)のカチオン化改質剤の場合は0.3g/l〜8.0g/l、一般式(3)のカチオン化改質剤の場合は1.0g/l〜20.0g/lの範囲で適宜設定することができる。処理濃度が下限の0.3g/lあるいは1.0g/l未満の場合はカチオン基の導入が少なくなるので未改質の原繊との間で同色相の濃淡の差が小さくなり好ましくなく、処理濃度が上限の8.0g/lあるいは20.0g/lを超える場合は濃く染色される部分のカチオン化改質剤の反応量が飽和されるのに対して、淡く染色される部分のカチオン化改質剤の反応量が多くなる結果、同色相の濃淡差が小さくなるので好ましくない。   The treatment concentration of the cationization modifier having a low composition ratio of the hydrophobic group is not particularly limited, but it depends on the contrast with the other modified fibers dyed in a shade difference or a different hue from the unmodified fibers. In the case of the cationization modifier of the general formula (2), 0.3 g / l to 8.0 g / l, and in the case of the cationization modifier of the general formula (3), 1.0 g / l to 20 g. It can be appropriately set within a range of 0 g / l. When the treatment concentration is lower than 0.3 g / l or less than 1.0 g / l, the introduction of cationic groups is reduced, so the difference in shade of the same hue with the unmodified raw fiber is reduced, which is not preferable. When the treatment concentration exceeds the upper limit of 8.0 g / l or 20.0 g / l, the reaction amount of the cationization modifier in the portion that is darkly dyed is saturated, whereas the cation in the portion that is lightly dyed As a result of increasing the reaction amount of the chemical modifier, it is not preferable because the difference in shade of the same hue becomes small.

カチオン化改質剤の反応触媒としては、水酸化リチウム、水酸化カリウム、水酸化ナトリウム、炭酸カリウム、炭酸ナトリウム等のアルカリ金属化合物、または、水酸化カルシウム、水酸化マグネシウム等のアルカリ土金属化合物を用いることができるが、取扱いが容易で水溶液がアルカリである、アルカリ金属化合物水溶液を用いるのが好ましい。   As a reaction catalyst for the cationization modifier, an alkali metal compound such as lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium carbonate or sodium carbonate, or an alkaline earth metal compound such as calcium hydroxide or magnesium hydroxide is used. Although it can be used, it is preferable to use an aqueous alkali metal compound solution which is easy to handle and the aqueous solution is alkaline.

本発明で用いる疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤と、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤との二種類のカチオン化剤を選択した理由は、酸性染料を含む染色液中で、これらのカチオン化改質した原繊を同浴処理すると、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤で改質した原繊が選択的に酸性染料で染着されることを利用するものである。 その染着差は一般式(1)〜(3)に示される化学式中の疎水基の炭素数の差に比例し、疎水基の炭素数の差が5を超える範囲にあるときその染着差が判然となる。   The reason for selecting two kinds of cationizing agents, a cationization modifier having a high hydrophobic group composition ratio and a cationization modifier having a low hydrophobic group composition ratio, used in the present invention is the dyeing solution containing an acid dye. In this case, when these cationized modified fibrils are treated in the same bath, the fibrils modified with a cationized modifier with a high percentage of hydrophobic groups are selectively dyed with acid dyes. To do. The dyeing difference is proportional to the difference in carbon number of the hydrophobic group in the chemical formulas represented by the general formulas (1) to (3), and when the difference in carbon number of the hydrophobic group is in the range exceeding 5, the dyeing difference. Becomes obvious.

本発明のメランジ用紡績糸は、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、未改質の原繊との三者を混繊した後績糸とするものであるが、その混繊と紡績の方法は常法を用いることができる。   The spun yarn for melange of the present invention is a cationized modified fiber using a cationization modifier having a high hydrophobic group composition ratio and a cationization modifier having a low hydrophobic group composition ratio. A post-work yarn is obtained by mixing the modified raw fiber and the unmodified raw fiber, and a conventional method can be used for the method of mixing and spinning.

これら三者の原繊の混合割合(重量%)は、試験の結果、〔(疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊)+(疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊)〕:(未改質の原繊)=〔(3+3)〕:(94)〜〔(3〜77)+(77〜3)〕:(20)の範囲になるように構成すると良好な霜降糸が得られることが判明した。即ち、未改質の原繊が少なくとも紡績糸全体の20%含まれていることが必要である。このような割合で混合した紡績糸は、引続き行われるアニオン染料を用いて多色相に染色後、染色された疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、未改質の原繊の三者間の色相差、及び各染着もしくは未染着の繊維量のバランスにより、外観が霜降り状を呈するメランジの効果が発現できる。   As a result of the test, the mixing ratio (% by weight) of these three fibrils was determined as follows: [(Fabric cation-modified using a cationization modifier having a high hydrophobic group composition ratio) + (Composition of hydrophobic groups) Raw fiber cationized and modified using a low rate cationization modifier)]: (Unmodified raw fiber) = [(3 + 3)]: (94)-[(3-77) + (77- 3)]: It has been found that a good frosting yarn can be obtained when it is configured to fall within the range of (20). That is, it is necessary that unmodified raw fiber is contained at least 20% of the entire spun yarn. The spun yarn mixed at such a ratio is dyed into a multi-colored dye using a subsequent anionic dye, and then a cationized modified fiber using a cationized modifier having a high composition ratio of the dyed hydrophobic group. And the difference in hue between the three fibers of the original fiber cationized and modified using a cationization modifier having a low hydrophobic group composition and the unmodified raw fiber, and each dyed or undyed fiber By the balance of the amount, the effect of a melange whose appearance is marbling can be exhibited.

本発明のカチオン化改質後のメランジ糸の染色工程、及び染色による効果について以下に記載する。染色を行う被染物の形態は、チ−ズや綛の糸状でも、編織物でも、縫製された繊維製品でもよく、目的に応じて適宜用いることができる。本発明で用いられるアニオン染料とは酸性染料、反応染料及び直接染料で、カチオン化改質した原繊を染色し未改質の原繊をオフホワイトとする場合は酸性染料と反応染料を用い、三者の原繊の全てを染色する場合は酸性染料、反応染料及び直接染料を用いる。   The dyeing process of the melange yarn after cationization modification according to the present invention and the effect of the dyeing will be described below. The form of the dyed material to be dyed may be in the form of a seed or cocoon, a knitted fabric, or a sewn textile product, and can be used as appropriate according to the purpose. The anionic dye used in the present invention is an acid dye, a reactive dye and a direct dye. When an unmodified raw fiber is made off-white by dyeing a cationized modified raw fiber, an acidic dye and a reactive dye are used. Use acid dyes, reactive dyes and direct dyes when dyeing all of the three original fibers.

酸性染料としては、市場で要求される染色堅牢度を満たすものが望ましく、例えば、ハ−フミリング型、ミリング型、金属錯塩型の酸性染料が挙げられる。ハ−フミリング型としては商品の染料冠称がスミノ−ル ファ−スト、カヤノ−ル、サンドランMF等の酸性染料が挙げられ、ミリング型としては商品の染料冠称がスミノ−ル ミリング、カヤノ−ル ミリング、サンドランN等が挙げられ、金属錯塩型としては商品の染料冠称がラニ−ルW、カヤラックス、イソランSが挙げられ、これらから適宜選択することができる。   As the acid dye, those satisfying the dyeing fastness required in the market are desirable, and examples thereof include half-milling type, milling type, and metal complex type acid dyes. Examples of half milling types include acid dyes such as Sumiol First, Kayanol, Sandran MF, etc., and examples of milling types include Sumino Milling, Kayano Luminating, sand orchid N, etc. are mentioned, and as the metal complex salt type, the name of the dye of the product is Ranil W, Kayalux, or Isolan S, which can be appropriately selected.

反応染料としては、例えば、商品名の染料冠称がプロシオンP、カヤシオンP、シバクロンP、ミカシオン、カヤシオンE、プロシロンMあるいはレバフィックスEの反応染料が挙げられ、これらから適宜選択することができる。直接染料としては、例えば、商品名の染料冠称がカヤラス、シリウス、シバフィックス、インドゾ−ル、ソ−ラ−等の直接染料が挙げられ、これらから適宜選択することができる。   Examples of the reactive dye include reactive dyes having a trade name of Procion P, Kayashion P, Shivacron P, Mikashion, Kayashion E, Prosilon M, or Rebafix E, and can be appropriately selected from these. Examples of the direct dye include direct dyes such as Kayaras, Sirius, Shivafix, Indozol, Solar, etc., which can be appropriately selected from these.

本発明の異なるカチオン化改質剤で改質した原繊を多色相に染色し、未改質の原繊をオフホワイトとする染色方法は、酸性染料と反応染料を用いて水酸化ナトリウム等の強塩基性触媒のみを染色助剤として浴比1:10〜1:30で、温度50〜100℃で20〜60分間染色する方法、または、酸性染料と反応染料を用いて均染剤のみを染色助剤として浴比1:10〜1:30、温度50〜100℃で20〜60分間染色する方法のいずれかを選択することができる。また、カチオン化改質した原繊の残っている染色座席を封鎖するために正電荷の封鎖剤を適宜用いることができる。酸性染料と反応染料を用いての染色は二種の染料を同時に用いる一段染色法でも夫々の染料で染色する二段染色法の何れも選択できる。   The dyeing method of dyeing raw fibers modified with different cationization modifiers of the present invention in multiple colors and making unmodified raw fibers off-white uses acid dyes and reactive dyes such as sodium hydroxide. A method of dyeing at a bath ratio of 1:10 to 1:30 at a temperature of 50 to 100 ° C. for 20 to 60 minutes using only a strongly basic catalyst as a dyeing assistant, or only a leveling agent using an acid dye and a reactive dye. As a dyeing assistant, any of methods for dyeing at a bath ratio of 1:10 to 1:30 and a temperature of 50 to 100 ° C. for 20 to 60 minutes can be selected. Moreover, a positively charged sequestering agent can be used as appropriate in order to sequester the dyed seat where the cationized modified raw fiber remains. For the dyeing using an acid dye and a reactive dye, either a one-step dyeing method using two kinds of dyes at the same time or a two-step dyeing method for dyeing with each dye can be selected.

二段染色法を用いる場合には、酸性染料は染料のみで浴比1:10〜1:30、温度80〜100℃で20〜60分間染色する方法、または、酸性染料と均染剤で浴比1:10〜1:30、温度80〜100℃で20〜60分間染色する方法を採り、反応染料は染料と塩基性触媒で浴比1:10〜1:30、温度50〜100℃で20〜60分間染色する方法、または、反応染料と均染剤で浴比1:10〜1:30、温度50〜100℃で20〜60分間染色する方法を組合わせて採ればよい。また、要求される染色堅牢度に応じて、フィックス剤を使用することができる。この方法で染色した紡績糸は、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した繊維部分が酸性染料で染色した色相を呈し、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した繊維部分が反応染料で染色した色相を呈し、未改質の繊維部分がオフホワイトの色相を呈する霜降り地用の紡績糸となる。   When the two-stage dyeing method is used, the acid dye is a dye only with a bath ratio of 1:10 to 1:30, a method of dyeing at a temperature of 80 to 100 ° C. for 20 to 60 minutes, or a bath with an acid dye and a leveling agent. A ratio of 1:10 to 1:30 is dyed at a temperature of 80 to 100 ° C. for 20 to 60 minutes. The reactive dye is a dye and a basic catalyst in a bath ratio of 1:10 to 1:30 and a temperature of 50 to 100 ° C. A method of dyeing for 20 to 60 minutes or a method of dyeing with a reactive dye and a leveling agent at a bath ratio of 1:10 to 1:30 and a temperature of 50 to 100 ° C. for 20 to 60 minutes may be used in combination. Further, a fixing agent can be used according to the required dyeing fastness. The spun yarn dyed by this method has a cationization modification with a high cationization modifier with a high hydrophobic group composition, and the cationized fiber portion has a hue dyed with an acid dye. The fiber portion cationized and modified using a modifier exhibits a hue dyed with a reactive dye, and the unmodified fiber portion becomes a spun yarn for marbling areas having an off-white hue.

本発明において三種の原繊の全てを染色する方法は、酸性染料、反応染料、直接染料の三種の染料と均染剤を染色助剤として調整した染色液中に被染物を投入し所定の温度まで昇温した後芒硝等の中性塩を添加し、温度50〜100℃で20〜60分間染色する方法を採ればよい。又、カチオン化改質した原繊の残っている染色座席を封鎖するために正電荷の封鎖剤を適宜用いることができる。染色の手順は三種の染料を同時に用いる一段染色法でも、前述の未改質の原繊をオフホワイトにカチオン化改質した原繊を酸性染料と反応染料を用いて染色する方法に従った後、直接染料と芒硝等の中性塩を染色助剤として染色する方法、または、反応染料と芒硝等の中性塩とソ−ダ灰等の塩基性触媒の染色助剤を用いて染色する方法の二段染色法、あるいは、三段染色法の何れも選択できる。また、要求される染色堅牢度に応じて、フィックス剤を使用することができる。   In the present invention, the method of dyeing all three kinds of raw fibers is a method in which an object to be dyed is put into a dyeing solution prepared by using three kinds of dyes of acid dyes, reactive dyes and direct dyes and a leveling agent as a dyeing assistant. After neutralizing, neutral salt such as mirabilite is added and dyeing is performed at a temperature of 50 to 100 ° C. for 20 to 60 minutes. Moreover, a positively charged sequestering agent can be used as appropriate in order to sequester the dyed seat where the cationized modified raw fiber remains. The dyeing procedure is a one-step dyeing method using three types of dyes at the same time, but after following the above-mentioned method of dyeing raw fibers that have been cation-modified from unmodified raw fibers to off-white using acid dyes and reactive dyes. , A method of dyeing a neutral salt such as a direct dye and mirabilite as a dyeing assistant, or a method of dyeing using a neutral dye such as a reactive dye and mirabilite and a basic catalyst such as soda ash The two-stage dyeing method or the three-stage dyeing method can be selected. Further, a fixing agent can be used according to the required dyeing fastness.

上記の三種の原繊の全てを染色する方法で染色した紡績糸は、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した繊維部分が酸性染料で染色した色相に直接染料または反応染料で染色した色相が重なった色相を呈し、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した繊維部分が反応染料で染色した色相に直接染料または反応染料で染色した色相が重なった色相を呈し、未改質の部分が直接染料または反応染料で染色した色相を呈する。例えば、赤色酸性染料、青色反応染料及び黄色直接染料または黄色反応染料を等量の染料濃度で用いる場合には、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した部分は酸性染料の赤色相に直接染料または反応染料の黄色相が重なった橙色相を呈し、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した部分は反応染料の青色相に直接染料または反応染料の黄色相が重なった紺色相を呈し、未改質の部分が直接染料または反応染料の黄色相を呈する。更に、この糸を用いて霜降り地を編成すると、橙色相と紺色相と黄色相の三色のメランジ編物が得られる。又、三種の原繊を混繊した後、同様の方法で染色しても、三色相のメランジ編物が得られる。
染色工程が終了した被染物はソ−ピング、樹脂加工、仕上げ油剤処理等の工程に移るが、これらの工程は特に限定されるものではなく一般的に用いられている方法で行うことができる。
The spun yarn dyed by the method of dyeing all three kinds of raw fibers is directly applied to the hue dyed with an acid dye on the fiber part cationized and modified with a cationization modifier having a high composition ratio of hydrophobic groups. A dye or reactive dye is directly applied to a hue dyed with a reactive dye on a fiber part that has been cationized and modified using a cationization modifier with a low hydrophobic group composition ratio, and the hue dyed with a dye or reactive dye is superimposed. The hues dyed in (1) and (2) exhibit a hue that overlaps, and the unmodified portion exhibits a hue that is directly dyed with a dye or a reactive dye. For example, when red acid dyes, blue reactive dyes and yellow direct dyes or yellow reactive dyes are used at equal dye concentrations, a portion that has been cationized using a cationization modifier with a high percentage of hydrophobic groups Exhibits an orange phase in which the red phase of the acid dye is directly overlapped with the yellow phase of the reactive dye or the reactive dye, and the portion cationized with a cationization modifier having a low hydrophobic group composition is the blue phase of the reactive dye. The yellow phase of the direct dye or the reactive dye overlaps with the yellow phase, and the unmodified part exhibits the yellow phase of the direct dye or the reactive dye. Further, when a marbling area is knitted using this yarn, a three-color melange knitted fabric of an orange hue, a scarlet hue, and a yellow hue is obtained. Also, a three-color melange knitted fabric can be obtained by mixing the three types of raw fibers and then dyeing them in the same manner.
The article to be dyed after the dyeing process is transferred to processes such as soaping, resin processing, finishing oil treatment, and the like, but these processes are not particularly limited and can be performed by generally used methods.

以下、本発明について実施例により具体的に説明するが、本発明はこの範囲に限定されるものではない。尚、本実施例中のメランジの効果の判定方法と染色堅牢度は以下の方法に基づいて測定した。
・メランジの効果の判定方法
染色した試料を5名の検査員による官能検査により、外観が霜降り状を呈する度合いを次の基準で判定した。

Figure 0004058689
・染色堅牢度の測定方法
耐光堅牢度:JIS L 0843:98 キセノンア−ク灯光に対する染色堅牢度試験方法に準拠し測定した。 EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention concretely, this invention is not limited to this range. In addition, the determination method and dyeing fastness of the melange effect in this example were measured based on the following methods.
-Method for judging the effect of melange The degree of appearance of the stained sample by the sensory inspection by five inspectors was judged according to the following criteria.
Figure 0004058689
-Measuring method of dyeing fastness Light fastness: JIS L 0843: 98 It measured based on the dyeing fastness test method with respect to a xenon arc lamp light.

〔実施例1〕
米国産木綿繊維を35%過酸化水素水溶液5g/l、過酸化水素の安定剤〔商品名:IPキレ−トD−40、一方社油脂工業(株)製〕2g/l、48%水酸化ナトリウム水溶液4g/l、精練用浸透剤〔商品名:エスピト−ルBSconc、サン化学(株)製〕0.5g/lを含む処理液で浴比1:15、温度95℃で40分間精練・漂白した後、水洗し酢酸〔商品名:試薬無水酢酸、関東化学(株)製〕1g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で15分間中和後水洗した。 その後、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤である3−クロロ−2−ヒドロキシジメチルドデシルアンモニウムクロライド〔商品名:CDDA、四日市合成(株)製〕5g/l、反応触媒〔商品名:試薬水酸化ナトリウム、関東化学(株)製〕10g/l、湿潤浸透剤〔商品名:クリ−ンN−15、一方社油脂工業(株)製〕2g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度60℃で60分間反応させた後、十分に水洗し、酢酸〔商品名:試薬無水酢酸、関東化学(株)製〕1g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で15分間中和した後水洗し、次いで、柔軟平滑仕上剤〔商品名:ゾンテスTA−460−15、松本油脂製薬(株)製〕8g/l、紡績油剤〔商品名:テロンLE,松本油脂製薬(株)製〕2g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で20分間処理した後、遠心脱水し、80℃の温風で乾燥して精練・漂白したカチオン化改質木綿繊維(A1)を約1000g製造した。
Example 1
US cotton fiber 35% hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution 5g / l, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer [trade name: IP Kyreate D-40, manufactured by Yushi Co., Ltd.] 2g / l, 48% hydroxylated Scouring for 40 minutes at a bath ratio of 1:15 and a temperature of 95 ° C. with a treatment solution containing 4 g / l of an aqueous sodium solution and 0.5 g / l of a penetrant for scouring [trade name: Espirol BSconc, manufactured by Sun Chemical Co., Ltd.] After bleaching, it was washed with water, neutralized with a treatment bath containing 1 g / l of acetic acid [trade name: reagent acetic anhydride, manufactured by Kanto Chemical Co., Ltd.] at a bath ratio of 1:15 at a temperature of 50 ° C. and then washed with water. Thereafter, 3-chloro-2-hydroxydimethyldodecylammonium chloride (trade name: CDDA, manufactured by Yokkaichi Gosei Co., Ltd.) 5 g / l, which is a cationization modifier having a high composition ratio of hydrophobic groups, reaction catalyst [trade name: Reagent sodium hydroxide, manufactured by Kanto Chemical Co., Ltd.] 10 g / l, wet penetrant [trade name: Clean N-15, manufactured by Otsuka Kogyo Co., Ltd.] 2 g / l, bath ratio 1:15, after reacting at a temperature of 60 ° C. for 60 minutes, thoroughly washed with water, and a treatment bath containing 1 g / l of acetic acid [trade name: reagent acetic anhydride, manufactured by Kanto Chemical Co., Ltd.], bath ratio 1:15 , Neutralized at 50 ° C. for 15 minutes, washed with water, then soft and smooth finish [trade name: Zontes TA-460-15, manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.] 8 g / l, spinning oil [trade name: Teron LE, manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.] containing 2 g / l In a bath ratio 1:15 after treatment at a temperature 50 ° C. 20 min, spun dry, cationized was scoured, bleached and dried at 80 ° C. hot air reforming cotton fibers (A1) was about 1000g produced.

米国産木綿繊維を35%過酸化水素水溶液5g/l、前述と同様の過酸化水素の安定剤2g/l、48%水酸化ナトリウム水溶液4g/l、前述と同様の精練用浸透剤0.5g/lを含む処理液で浴比1:15、温度95℃で40分間精練・漂白した後、水洗し前述と同様の酢酸1g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で15分間中和した後水洗した後、有効成分が40%である疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤である1,6ビス−(3−クロロ−2−ヒドロキシジメチルアンモニウム)ヘキサンジクロライド〔商品名:カチオノンUK、一方社油脂工業(株)製〕20g/l、前述と同様の反応触媒10g/l、前述と同様の湿潤浸透剤2g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度60℃で60分間反応させた後、十分に水洗し、前述と同様の酢酸1g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で15分間中和した後水洗し、次いで、次いで、前述と同様の柔軟平滑仕上剤8g/l、前述と同様の紡績油剤2g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で20分間処理した後、遠心脱水し、80℃の温風で乾燥して精練・漂白したカチオン化改質木綿繊維(B1)を約1000g製造した。
米国産木綿繊維を35%過酸化水素水溶液5g/l、前述と同様の過酸化水素の安定剤2g/l、48%水酸化ナトリウム水溶液4g/l、前述と同様の精練用浸透剤0.5g/lを含む処理液で浴比1:15、温度95℃で40分間精練・漂白した後、水洗し前述と同様の酢酸1g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で15分間中和後水洗し、前述と同様の柔軟平滑仕上剤8g/l、前述と同様の紡績油剤2g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で20分間処理した後、遠心脱水し、80℃の温風で乾燥して精練・漂白した未改質の木綿繊維(C1)を約1000g製造した。
US cotton fiber 35% hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution 5 g / l, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer 2 g / l as described above, 48% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution 4 g / l, scouring penetrant 0.5 g as described above Scouring and bleaching with a treatment liquid containing 1 / l bath at a temperature of 1:15 and a temperature of 95 ° C. for 40 minutes, followed by washing with water and a treatment bath containing 1 g / l of acetic acid as described above, a bath ratio of 1:15 and a temperature of 50 ° C. 1,6 bis- (3-chloro-2-hydroxydimethylammonium) hexane dichloride which is a cationization modifier having a low composition ratio of a hydrophobic group having an active ingredient of 40% after neutralizing with water for 15 minutes [Trade name: Cationone UK, manufactured by Otsuka Oil Co., Ltd.] 20 g / l, a treatment bath containing 10 g / l of the same reaction catalyst as described above, and 2 g / l of the same wet penetrant as described above, with a bath ratio of 1: 15. After reacting at a temperature of 60 ° C. for 60 minutes, In a treatment bath containing 1 g / l of acetic acid as described above, neutralize at a bath ratio of 1:15 and a temperature of 50 ° C. for 15 minutes, then washed with water, and then 8 g of a soft and smooth finish similar to that described above. / L, a treatment bath containing 2 g / l of a spinning oil similar to the above, treated at a bath ratio of 1:15 and a temperature of 50 ° C. for 20 minutes, centrifuged and dehydrated, dried with warm air at 80 ° C., and scoured and bleached About 1000 g of the cationized modified cotton fiber (B1) was produced.
US cotton fiber 35% hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution 5 g / l, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer 2 g / l as described above, 48% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution 4 g / l, scouring penetrant 0.5 g as described above Scouring and bleaching with a treatment liquid containing 1 / l bath at a temperature of 1:15 and a temperature of 95 ° C. for 40 minutes, followed by washing with water and a treatment bath containing 1 g / l of acetic acid as described above, a bath ratio of 1:15 and a temperature of 50 ° C. And then washed with water and treated in a treatment bath containing 8 g / l of a soft and smooth finish similar to that described above and 2 g / l of a spinning oil similar to that described above at a bath ratio of 1:15 and a temperature of 50 ° C. for 20 minutes. Then, about 1000 g of unmodified cotton fiber (C1), which was centrifugally dehydrated, dried with hot air at 80 ° C., scoured and bleached, was produced.

次いで、上記のようにして得られた疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した木綿繊維(A1)、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した木綿繊維(B1)、及び精練・漂白した未改質の米国産木綿繊維(C1)の3種類の木綿繊維を使用して表1の通りの混合比で混繊した後、クイックスピンシステム〔型式:QSS−R20、SDL International LTD製〕を用いて19.68texの紡績糸を製造して試験糸No.1〜No.9と比較糸No.1〜No.3とし、これらを使用して靴下編み機を用いて長さ約30cmの靴下編地を編成し、夫々の靴下編地を編地No.1〜No.9と比較編地No.1〜No.3とした。   Next, a cotton fiber (A1) cationized and modified using a cationization modifier having a high composition ratio of hydrophobic groups obtained as described above, and a cationization modifier having a low composition ratio of hydrophobic groups is used. After blending at the mixing ratio shown in Table 1 using three types of cotton fibers: cationized modified cotton fiber (B1) and scoured and bleached unmodified US cotton fiber (C1) , Manufactured a spun yarn of 19.68 tex using a quick spin system (model: QSS-R20, manufactured by SDL International LTD) 1-No. 9 and comparative yarn no. 1-No. 3 and using these socks knitting machines, a sock knitted fabric having a length of about 30 cm is knitted. 1-No. 9 and comparative fabric No. 1-No. It was set to 3.

Figure 0004058689
Figure 0004058689

得られた編地No.1〜No.9と比較編地No.1〜No.3を赤色酸性染料〔商品名Sandlan Red MF−TNS、クラリアントジャパン(株)製〕1.5%owf、青色反応染料〔Kayacion Blue P−3R、日本化薬(株)製〕1.5%owfを含む染色浴中で浴比1:20、室温で10分間処理した後、90℃迄昇温させ10分後、塩基性反応触媒〔商品名:エスポロンA−609、一方社油脂工業(株)製〕4g/lを添加し、温度90℃で20分間処理した後、80℃迄降温させた。次いで、水洗後、正電荷の封鎖剤〔商品名:5MA−51、一方社油脂工業(株)製〕2g/lを含む処理液で浴比1:20、温度80℃で20分間染色座席の封鎖処理をした後、界面活性剤〔商品名:ビスノ−ルRK、一方社油脂工業(株)製〕3.0g/lを含む処理液中で、浴比1:20、温度80℃で15分間ソ−ピングした後、水洗し、次いで、120℃の温風で乾燥して、染色した試料No.1〜No.9と比較試料No.1〜No.3を得た。
その結果、疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した繊維のみの比較試料No.1は濃赤色に染色され、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した繊維のみの比較試料No.2は濃青色に染色された。
The obtained knitted fabric No. 1-No. 9 and comparative fabric No. 1-No. 3 is red acidic dye [trade name Sandlan Red MF-TNS, manufactured by Clariant Japan Co., Ltd.] 1.5% owf, blue reactive dye [Kayacion Blue P-3R, manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.] 1.5% owf In a dye bath containing 1:20 at room temperature and 10 minutes at room temperature, then heated to 90 ° C. and 10 minutes later, a basic reaction catalyst [trade name: Espolon A-609; [Production] 4 g / l was added, treated at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes, and then cooled to 80 ° C. Next, after washing with water, a positively charged sequestering agent (trade name: 5MA-51, manufactured by Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) with a treatment solution containing 2 g / l, a bath ratio of 1:20, and a temperature of 80 ° C. for 20 minutes. After the blocking treatment, in a treatment liquid containing 3.0 g / l of a surfactant [trade name: Bisnor RK, manufactured by Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.], a bath ratio of 1:20 at a temperature of 80 ° C. is 15 After soaping for a minute, the sample was washed with water and then dried with warm air at 120 ° C. 1-No. 9 and comparative sample no. 1-No. 3 was obtained.
As a result, a comparative sample No. 1 containing only fibers cationized and modified using a cationization modifier having a high composition ratio of hydrophobic groups was used. No. 1 was dyed in dark red, and comparative sample No. 2 consisting only of fibers cationized and modified using a cationization modifier having a low percentage of hydrophobic groups was dyed in dark blue.

得られた試料No.1〜No.9と比較試料No.1〜No.3の色相の観察結果とメランジの効果の判定結果を表2に示す。   The obtained sample No. 1-No. 9 and comparative sample no. 1-No. Table 2 shows the observation results of hue 3 and the determination results of the melange effect.

Figure 0004058689
Figure 0004058689

表2から明らかなように、試料No.1〜No.9及び比較試料No.1〜No.3の疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した木綿繊維(A1)の被染物は赤色酸性染料濃度1.5%owfの条件で濃赤色に染色され、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した木綿繊維(B1)の被染物は青色反応性染料濃度1.5%owfの条件で濃青色に染色された。精練・漂白した未改質の木綿繊維(C1)は僅かに汚染されたオフホワイトの色相を呈した。染色された試料の量が2%でオフホワイトの色相を呈する精練・漂白した未改質の木綿繊維(C1)の量が98%である試料No.1は染色された試料の量が少ないためにメランジの効果がハッキリと認められず、又、染色された試料の量が90%でオフホワイトの試料の量が10%である試料No.9はオフホワイトの量が少ないために、同様にメランジの効果がハッキリと認められなかった。染色された試料の量が20%〜50%でオフホワイトの試料の量が50%〜80%である試料No.4、試料No.5、試料No.6は濃赤色と濃青色の二色相のメランジの効果が明瞭に認められ、良好な霜降り地であった。又、染色された試料の量が全体の6%で、且つ、その中で濃青色と濃赤色の比率がほぼ等しく、オフホワイトの量が94%である試料No.3はメランジの効果が認められ、染色された試料の量が全体の80%で、且つ、濃青色と濃赤色の比率が19:1で、オフホワイトの量が20%である試料No.7も二色相のメランジの効果が認められた。しかしながら、染色された試料の量が全体の6%で、且つ、その中で濃紺色と濃赤色の比率が5:1でオフホワイトの試料の量が94%である試料No.2は二色相のメランジの効果がハッキリと認められず、染色された試料の量が全体の80%で、且つ、その中で濃紺色と赤色の比率が79:1で、オフホワイトの試料の量が20%である試料No.8も二色相のメランジの効果がハッキリ認めらないことから、メランジ効果の発現には、染色された試料の色相と量、及びオフホワイトの試料の量とのバランスが関係することが明らかとなった。   As apparent from Table 2, the sample No. 1-No. 9 and comparative sample no. 1-No. The dyed product of cotton fiber (A1) cationized and modified using a cationization modifier having a high composition ratio of 3 hydrophobic groups is dyed dark red under the condition of a red acidic dye concentration of 1.5% owf. The dyed product of cotton fiber (B1) cation-modified with a cationization modifier having a low group composition was dyed dark blue under the condition of a blue reactive dye concentration of 1.5% owf. The scoured and bleached unmodified cotton fiber (C1) had a slightly contaminated off-white hue. Sample No. 2 in which the amount of dyed sample was 2% and the amount of scoured and bleached unmodified cotton fiber (C1) exhibiting an off-white hue was 98%. No. 1 is a sample No. 1 in which the amount of the stained sample is small and the effect of melange is not clearly recognized, and the amount of the stained sample is 90% and the amount of the off-white sample is 10%. Since the amount of off-white of 9 was small, the effect of melange was not clearly recognized. Sample No. with a dyed sample amount of 20% to 50% and an off-white sample amount of 50% to 80%. 4, Sample No. 5, Sample No. No. 6 was a good marbling area where the effect of melange in two hues of dark red and dark blue was clearly recognized. In addition, the sample No. 1 in which the amount of the stained sample is 6% of the whole, the ratio of dark blue to dark red is almost equal, and the amount of off-white is 94%. Sample No. 3 in which the effect of melange was recognized, the amount of the stained sample was 80% of the whole, the ratio of dark blue to dark red was 19: 1, and the amount of off-white was 20%. 7 also showed the effect of melange of two hues. However, sample No. 1 was 6% of the total dyed sample, of which the ratio of dark blue to dark red was 5: 1 and the amount of off-white sample was 94%. 2 shows that the effect of melange of two hues is not clearly observed, the amount of the stained sample is 80% of the whole, and the ratio of dark blue to red is 79: 1, and the off-white sample Sample No. having an amount of 20%. Since the effect of melange with two hues is not clearly observed in Fig. 8, it is clear that the balance between the hue and the amount of the stained sample and the amount of the off-white sample is related to the expression of the melange effect. It was.

〔実施例2〕
米国産木綿繊維を疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤である3−クロロ−2−ヒドロキシプロピルトリメチルアンモニウムクロライド〔商品名:カチオンマスタ−C、四日市合成(株)製〕20g/l、実施例1と同一の反応触媒10g/l、実施例1と同一の湿潤浸透剤2g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度60℃で60分間反応させた後、十分に水洗し、実施例1と同一の酢酸1g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で15分間中和した後水洗し、次いで、実施例1と同一の柔軟平滑仕上剤8g/l、実施例1と同一の紡績油剤2g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で20分間処理した後、遠心脱水し、80℃の温風で乾燥してカチオン化改質木綿繊維(B2)を約1000g製造した。
米国産木綿繊維を約1000g用意して未改質の木綿繊維(C2)とした。
実施例1の疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した木綿繊維(A1)を15重量%、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した木綿繊維(B2)を15重量%、未改質の木綿繊維(C2)を70重量%の割合で混繊した後、クイックスピンシステムを用いて19.68texの紡績糸を製造し、これを試験糸No.10とした。試験糸No.10を使用して靴下編み機を用いて長さ約30mの靴下編地を編成し、編地No.10とした。
[Example 2]
3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (trade name: Cation Master-C, manufactured by Yokkaichi Synthesis Co., Ltd.), 20 g / l, which is a cationization modifier having a low hydrophobic group composition rate from US cotton fiber In a treatment bath containing 10 g / l of the same reaction catalyst as in Example 1 and 2 g / l of the same wet penetrant as in Example 1, the mixture was reacted at a bath ratio of 1:15 and a temperature of 60 ° C. for 60 minutes, and then thoroughly washed with water. Then, the same treatment bath containing 1 g / l of acetic acid as in Example 1 was neutralized at a bath ratio of 1:15 and a temperature of 50 ° C. for 15 minutes, followed by washing with water, and then 8 g of the same soft and smooth finish as in Example 1. / L, a treatment bath containing 2 g / l of the same spinning oil as in Example 1, treated at a bath ratio of 1:15 and a temperature of 50 ° C. for 20 minutes, then spin-dehydrated and dried with hot air at 80 ° C. About 1000 g of modified cotton fiber (B2) was produced.
About 1000 g of US cotton fibers were prepared and used as unmodified cotton fibers (C2).
15% by weight of the cotton fiber (A1) cation-modified using the cationization modifier having a high hydrophobic group composition ratio in Example 1 and the cation using the cationization modifier having a low hydrophobic group composition ratio. After blending 15% by weight of the modified cotton fiber (B2) and 70% by weight of the unmodified cotton fiber (C2), a spun yarn of 19.68 tex was manufactured using a quick spin system. , The test yarn No. It was set to 10. Test thread No. 10 is used to knit a sock knitted fabric having a length of about 30 m using a sock knitting machine. It was set to 10.

編地No.10を実施例1と同一の35%過酸化水素水溶液5g/l、実施例1と同一の過酸化水素の安定剤2g/l、48%水酸化ナトリウム水溶液4g/l、実施例1と同一の精練用浸透剤0.5g/lを含む処理液で浴比1:15、温度95℃で40分間精練・漂白した後、水洗し実施例1と同一の酢酸1g/lを含む処理浴で、浴比1:15、温度50℃で15分間中和後水洗し、青色酸性染料〔商品名:Kayacry Sky Blue R、日本化薬(株)製〕0.4%owf、赤色反応染料〔商品名:Kayacion Red P−4BN、日本化薬(株)製〕0.4%owf、黄色直接染料〔商品名:Kyarus Supra Yellow GLS、日本化薬(株)製〕0.4%owf、均染剤〔商品名:UDA−104K、一方社油脂工業(株)製〕を含む染色浴中で浴比1:20、室温で10分間処理した後、90℃迄昇温した後、芒硝10g/l添加し、温度90℃で30分間処理した後、80℃迄降温させた。次いで、水洗後、界面活性剤〔サンモ−ル120、日華化学(株)製〕2g/lを含む処理液で浴比1:20、温度80℃で15分間ソ−ピングした後、水洗し、次いで、120℃の温風で乾燥して、染色した試料No.10を得た。
得られた試料No.10の色相の観察結果とメランジの効果の判定結果とキセノンア−ク灯光に対する染色堅牢度の測定結果を表3に示す。
Knitted fabric No. 10 is the same 35% hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution 5g / l as in Example 1, the same hydrogen peroxide stabilizer 2g / l as in Example 1, 48% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution 4g / l, the same as in Example 1. In a treatment bath containing 0.5 g / l of a scouring penetrant, scouring and bleaching at a bath ratio of 1:15 and a temperature of 95 ° C. for 40 minutes, followed by washing with water and the same treatment bath containing 1 g / l of acetic acid as in Example 1, Bath ratio 1:15, neutralized at 50 ° C. for 15 minutes, washed with water, blue acidic dye [trade name: Kayacryl Sky Blue R, manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.] 0.4% owf, red reactive dye [trade name : Kayacion Red P-4BN, manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.] 0.4% owf, yellow direct dye [trade name: Kyarus Supra Yellow GLS, manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.] 0.4% owf, leveling agent [Product name: UDA-104K, one company oil industry ( )] In a dye bath containing 1:20 at room temperature for 10 minutes, heated to 90 ° C., added with 10 g / l of sodium sulfate, treated at 90 ° C. for 30 minutes, and then treated at 80 ° C. The temperature was lowered. Next, after washing with water, soap (Sunmol 120, manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) with a treatment solution containing 2 g / l was soaked at a bath ratio of 1:20 at a temperature of 80 ° C. for 15 minutes, and then washed with water. Next, the sample No. 1 was stained with warm air of 120 ° C. and stained. 10 was obtained.
The obtained sample No. Table 3 shows the observation results of ten hues, the determination results of the melange effect, and the measurement results of the fastness to dyeing with respect to xenon arc lamp light.

Figure 0004058689
Figure 0004058689

試料No.10は淡黄色の中に濃紺色と濃橙色が混じった霜降り状の外観を呈する品位の高い編地に仕上がった。疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤でカチオン化改質された木綿繊維A1は、青色酸性染料で青色に染色されると同時に黄色直接染料で黄色に染色されるので二つの色相が重なった濃紺色に染色され、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤でカチオン化改質された木綿繊維B2は、赤色反応染料で赤色に染色するのと同時に黄色直接染料で黄色に染色されるので二つの色相が重なった濃橙色に染色され、精練・漂白された未改質の木綿繊維C2は黄色直接染料により淡黄色に染色された。試料No.10の70%を占める未改質の木綿繊維は精練・漂白した後染色したが外観品位に問題なく、試料No.10の30%を占めるカチオン化改質した木綿繊維も改質後に行われた精練・漂白の影響は受けず、外観品位に問題なかった。   Sample No. No. 10 was finished in a high quality knitted fabric with a marbling appearance in which dark blue and dark orange were mixed in light yellow. Cotton fiber A1, which has been cationized and modified with a cationization modifier having a high percentage of hydrophobic groups, is dyed blue with a blue acid dye and simultaneously dyed yellow with a yellow direct dye, so the two hues overlap. Cotton fiber B2 dyed dark blue and cationized with a cationization modifier with a low hydrophobic group composition rate is dyed red with a red reactive dye and simultaneously dyed yellow with a yellow direct dye. Therefore, the unmodified cotton fiber C2 dyed in a deep orange color with two hues overlapped and scoured and bleached was dyed pale yellow with a yellow direct dye. Sample No. 70% of the unmodified cotton fiber, which was 70%, was dyed after scouring and bleaching, but there was no problem in appearance quality. Cationized and modified cotton fibers occupying 30% of 10 were not affected by the scouring and bleaching performed after the modification, and there was no problem in appearance quality.

本発明の霜降地用紡績糸を用いることにより、一工程の染色により多色相の霜降地を任意の色調に染色できるので、繊維製品の製造に要する時間を短縮し、少量多品種生産に適している。しかも、本発明の紡績糸は、同一素材を使用するので、素材の有する特性を損なわずに吸湿性、肌触りに優れた繊維製品とすることの出来るメランジ用紡績糸である。   By using the spun yarn for frost ground according to the present invention, it is possible to dye a multi-colored frost ground in an arbitrary color by dyeing in one step, so that the time required for manufacturing a textile product is shortened, and it is suitable for small-quantity multi-product production Yes. Moreover, since the spun yarn of the present invention uses the same material, it is a spun yarn for melange that can be made into a fiber product excellent in hygroscopicity and touch without impairing the properties of the material.

Claims (6)

疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、未改質の原繊を混繊した後紡績糸とすることを特徴とする霜降地用紡績糸。   Original fiber cation-modified with a cationization modifier with a high percentage of hydrophobic groups, and original fiber cation-modified with a cationization modifier with a low percentage of hydrophobic groups A spun yarn for frosty ground, which is made by blending high-quality raw fibers into spun yarn. 疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤が、一般式(1)
Figure 0004058689
(但し、Rは炭素数が8〜18のアルキル基、フェニル基又はフェニルメチル基であり、Xはハロゲン基である。)で示されるカチオン化改質剤であり、
疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤が、一般式(2)
Figure 0004058689
(但し、Rは炭素数が1〜3のアルキル基であり、Xはハロゲン基である。)で示されるカチオン化改質剤である請求項1に記載の霜降地用紡績糸。
A cationization modifier having a high percentage of hydrophobic groups is represented by the general formula (1).
Figure 0004058689
(Wherein R 1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, a phenyl group or a phenylmethyl group, and X is a halogen group.)
A cationization modifier having a low percentage of hydrophobic groups is represented by the general formula (2).
Figure 0004058689
The spun yarn for frost landing according to claim 1, wherein R 2 is a cationization modifier represented by R 2 is an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms and X is a halogen group.
疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤が、一般式(1)
Figure 0004058689
(但し、Rは炭素数が8〜18のアルキル基、フェニル基又はフェニルメチル基であり、Xはハロゲン基である。)で示されるカチオン化改質剤であり、
疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤が、一般式(3)
Figure 0004058689
(但し、Xはハロゲン基であり、nは2〜12の整数を表す。)で示されるカチオン化改質剤である請求項1に記載の霜降地用紡績糸。
A cationization modifier having a high percentage of hydrophobic groups is represented by the general formula (1).
Figure 0004058689
(Wherein R 1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, a phenyl group or a phenylmethyl group, and X is a halogen group.)
A cationization modifier having a low composition ratio of a hydrophobic group is represented by the general formula (3).
Figure 0004058689
The spun yarn for frost landing according to claim 1, which is a cationization modifier represented by the formula (where X is a halogen group and n is an integer of 2 to 12).
未改質の原繊が、少なくとも紡績糸全体の20重量%含まれている請求項1乃至3のいずれかに記載の霜降地用紡績糸。   The spun yarn for frost landing according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the unmodified raw fiber contains at least 20% by weight of the entire spun yarn. 疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、未改質の原繊よりなる紡績糸を、酸性染料と反応染料で染色することを特徴とする霜降地用紡績糸の染色方法。   Original fiber cation-modified with a cationization modifier with a high percentage of hydrophobic groups, and original fiber cation-modified with a cationization modifier with a low percentage of hydrophobic groups A method for dyeing spun yarn for frost ground, characterized by dyeing a spun yarn made of quality raw fiber with an acid dye and a reactive dye. 疎水基の構成率の高いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、疎水基の構成率の低いカチオン化改質剤を用いてカチオン化改質した原繊と、未改質の原繊よりなる紡績糸を酸性染料と反応染料と直接染料で染色することを特徴とする霜降地用紡績糸の染色方法。   Original fiber cation-modified with a cationization modifier with a high percentage of hydrophobic groups, and original fiber cation-modified with a cationization modifier with a low percentage of hydrophobic groups A method for dyeing spun yarn for frost ground, characterized by dyeing a spun yarn made of quality raw fiber with an acid dye, a reactive dye and a direct dye.
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GR1010636B (en) * 2022-12-23 2024-02-15 Κολορα Αε, Method for gradation or single-bath double-dyeing using cotton substrates of different cationic modification level with reaction dues and/or acid dyes

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JP2005273108A (en) * 2004-03-26 2005-10-06 Fuji Spinning Co Ltd Method for printing cellulosic fiber cloth
JP4799021B2 (en) * 2005-03-24 2011-10-19 グンゼ株式会社 A method for dyeing non-dyeable yarns with dyes used on nylon fibers or wool
US9745694B2 (en) 2013-01-25 2017-08-29 Colorzen, Llc Treatment of fibers for improved dyeability

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