JP2657658B2 - Unique dyed hemp fiber structure and its dyeing method - Google Patents

Description

Description: BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a non-colored hemp fiber structure using a scaly pre-dyed post-dyeing method and a method for dyeing the same.

(Conventional technology and problems to be solved) Conventionally, as a method for obtaining a different-color dyed textile product, for example, a method of blending dyed cotton with undyed cotton, or a cotton dyed to other hues, After blending different materials into a knitted fabric, dyeing different colors using dyes suitable for each material, After introducing a cationic group into a part of cellulose fiber,
Blend with cellulose fibers that do not introduce cationic groups,
A method of dyeing different colors by knitting and non-woven dyeing, and using wool top or synthetic tow as bigolo pudding,
There are a method of producing a marbled fabric and a method of printing a yarn to obtain a ragged fabric.

However, the method of (1) requires dyeing of all colors in order to assemble each hue, and has many drawbacks, such as a large number of manual operations and a considerable amount of time to obtain a final product. Was.

Examples of the method include those described in, for example, JP-A-59-163493, JP-A-61-6385, JP-A-61-47886, and JP-A-61-119787. There is a method of dyeing different colors by blending different kinds of synthetic fibers or synthetic fibers and cellulose fibers. This method is effective for mixed products of hemp and synthetic fibers, but is not applicable to structures made of 100% hemp fibers.

Further, the method of, for example, JP-A-59-216988,
JP-A-60-231877, JP-A-60-252786, JP-A-61-119789, JP-A-61-282486, JP-A-62-90383 and JP-B-53-24552. As apparent from the publication, a modified cellulose fiber having a chemically introduced cationic group is prepared, and after blending this with an unmodified cellulose fiber, a knitted fabric is formed and dyed with two or more dyes. Thus, a different-color dyed fiber product is obtained. However, such modified fibers have a high reactivity with heat, light, gas, etc., so that they may turn yellow due to aging until dyeing, or adsorb dyes that have fallen off from other dyed products when the dyed product is washed. There has been a problem that a hue change or a decrease in sharpness is apt to occur.

Since the bigoro printing method, which is a further method, arranges slivers in a web shape and colors them in a striped pattern with an engraving roll, guilling, combing, and weaving without spun yarn,
As in the case of cotton dyeing, it takes time and time to obtain a marbled preparation. Further, the thread printing method is to obtain a curly knitted fabric by partially paying attention to a dye solution on a thread arranged in a string, a skein, a cheese or a sheet by roll printing or spraying, or other methods. Not only does it require skill in yarn printing technology, and the process is complicated, but also it takes a long time to obtain a product even if it is not as large as the above-mentioned bigolo printing method.

(Object of the Invention) The present invention is not based on the conventional mixing of yarn-dyed different-color fibers, mixing with different-color fibers, mixing with chemically modified fibers, and the like. Dyeing method and structure that can obtain a hemp fiber which usually dyes in a uniform hue irrespective of the means of printing by a post-dyeing method, and can easily obtain a scaly, pre-dyed heterochromatic dyeing fiber structure To provide things.

The present inventor has conducted intensive studies to achieve the above object, and as a result, in a method of post-dyeing a hemp fiber structure having a fine fineness to a fine fineness, a fiber having a fine fineness is mainly dyed with a reactive dye, while Is dyed with a direct dye, in this case, by providing a different hue from the reactive dye as the direct dye, and by using a direct dye having a molecular weight of 1000 or less, mainly hemp fiber of fineness, mainly It has been found that a hemp fiber having a large fineness is post-dyed in a hue different in color, and a pre-dyed heterocolored hemp fiber structure can be obtained, and the present invention has been made based on this finding.

 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The hemp fiber according to the present invention mainly refers to hemp fiber for clothing represented by ramie and linen, which has been subjected to ordinary peeling, soft fiber, scouring, bleaching, etc., and the hemp fiber structure is such hemp fiber Refers to cotton, yarn, woven fabric, knitted fabric or non-woven fabric, etc. that at least partially constitutes a component, but any other bast or vein fiber made of cellulose can be the subject of the present invention as hemp fiber. Also, all structures including hemp fibers, such as cords, composite fibers, and the like, other than the above-mentioned shapes, can be an object of the present invention.

The present invention also relates to a fibrous structure obtained by blending one or more kinds of cellulose fibers other than hemp fibers, non-cellulose natural fibers, synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers and the like and hemp fibers, and weaving and knitting. It is also possible to dye in combination with a conventional dyeing technique for a fiber component other than the hemp fiber, and the effect of the method of the present invention is not at all limited by this.

In the first place, such hemp fiber material is characterized in that the fineness distribution range of each constituent single fiber is wide as compared with other cellulose fiber materials. In other words, while the fineness of cotton monofilament generally converges around 1.8 denier,
The fineness of hemp monofilament ranges from 1.5 to 20 denier.

The hemp fibers having such a wide range of fineness distribution are blended, or twisted and woven to produce a fibrous structure, but when dyeing the fibrous structure, the dyeing behavior between the single fibers is delicate due to the fineness difference. different. However, in a usual dyeing method, it is usual to reduce such a delicate difference as much as possible and to adjust the dyeing conditions so as to obtain a seemingly uniform hue, and it is not intended to enlarge the difference in dyeability.

The present invention has focused on such a dyeing behavior, and has found a dyeing method capable of enhancing the difference in dyeing properties, resulting in obtaining an excellent different color dyeing effect of Chambray tone or gingham tone.

In the present invention, a dye is used in combination with a reactive dye and a direct dye.
Conventionally, such a combination has not been made. Therefore, the effect of different color dyeing according to the present invention was not recognized even if the dye was simply dyed by the conventional technique. For example, when a conventional reactive dye is used in combination with a blue-based reactive dye and a red-based direct dye, the blue component and the red component are mixed even if a slight difference in shading due to a difference in the fineness of hemp fiber is observed. Only a single violet hue can be obtained.

As the dye used in the present invention, any conventionally known reactive dye can be used. On the other hand, as the direct dye used in the present invention, all conventionally known direct dyes can be used as long as the molecular weight is 1,000 or less. When the molecular weight is larger than 1000, even if a direct dye having a sufficiently different hue from the reactive dye is used,
A remarkable different-color dyeing effect cannot be obtained by utilizing the difference in dyeing properties for each part single fiber, and a mixed color region is widened.

When the hemp fiber structure is post-dyed by using such a reactive dye and a direct dye in combination, hemp fibers having a fineness of less than about 3 deniers are mainly dyed with a reactive dye, and a finer size portion, that is, about 4 deniers or more. Hemp fibers are mainly dyed with a direct dye, and the intermediate portion between the fine and fine fine portions is dyed with a hue of either a reactive dye or a direct dye or a mixed color of both dyes. As a result, the entire hemp fiber-containing structure is finished in a scaly color tone as if it were dyed by the yarn-dying method.

The staining conditions in the present invention are not particularly limited, and can be freely selected within the range of conditions conventionally used. However, it is necessary to pay attention to the following points in order to maximize the effects of the invention.

Reactive dyes require the use of both alkaline and electrolyte components for dyeing due to their dyeing mechanism.However, in dyeing operations, most of the dyes are first adsorbed on the fiber and then these components are dyed in a bath. And treatment of the fibers to complete the binding of the dye to the fibers. However, when such a conventional dyeing method using multistage drug addition is used for hemp fiber dyeing, the fine fiber portion of each constituent single fiber absorbs the most dye, the intermediate fineness portion is second largest, and the large fineness portion Although the above-mentioned tendency of absorbing only a small amount appears, it has been observed that the difference in dye absorption does not increase so much depending on the type of dye. Considering that the dyeing conditions are set to minimize the dye absorption difference as much as possible in the dyeing for the purpose of ordinary uniform hue,
This phenomenon is natural.

On the contrary, the present invention aims at maximizing the difference in dye absorption between the constituent single fibers. Therefore, it is desirable to set the dyeing conditions as such, and the following conditions give preferable results. That is, the alkali and electrolyte components are not added to the dye bath separately from the dye, but are added simultaneously with the dye to adjust the pH of the dye bath to 10 or more before dyeing is started. When this method is employed, the difference in dye absorption resulting from the difference in fineness between the constituent single fibers is enlarged, and the presence of the fineness portion in the material to be dyed is emphasized, so that the effect of the present invention becomes more remarkable.

Means for making the effect of the present invention remarkable include, in addition to the above-mentioned dyeing conditions, mercerization or alkali treatment as one step in a dye preparation stage such as scouring and bleaching. It is a well-known fact that mercerization using an aqueous solution of caustic alkali increases dye absorbency of all cellulosic fibers including hemp fibers. Mercerization for the purpose of increase is frequently used on a daily basis.

In the present invention, since the mercerization and / or alkali treatment all act to increase the amount of dyeing for each single fiber having a different fineness, the single fiber after dyeing with a reactive dye and a direct dye is used. The color difference between colors is emphasized, and the different color effect becomes remarkable. That is, when using caustic soda, the alkali concentration in the alkali treatment is 10 to 200 g.
/, Preferably 50-100 g /, processing temperature from room temperature to 60 ° C,
The temperature is preferably from room temperature to 40 ° C, and the treatment time is from 5 to 60 minutes, preferably from 10 to 30 minutes.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. The percentages in the examples are percentages by weight based on the hemp fibers to be treated.

(Example) Example 1 50% of ramie from the Philippines and 50% of ramie from China were blended to spin out a 60th (hemp count) ramie yarn. The fineness distribution at this time was in the range of 1.5 to 20 denier. This 100% Lamy plain fabric (density 56 × 62 / inch) is burned with gas and stripped with Amylase 1g /, and 30cc of caustic soda at 50 Baume and Surfactant Diesurf WS
-20 (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)
Then bleached with sodium chlorite 18g / (pH3.5) at 90 ° C for 60 minutes, dechlorinated with hydrosulfite 1g / at 80 ° C for 40 minutes, and finally mercerized with caustic soda at 18 Baume degree. The fabric was dyed under the following conditions.

CI Reactive Red 21 3%, anhydrous sodium sulfate 70g /
, Anhydrous sodium carbonate 8g / bath ratio 1:15 (bath pH 11.
Dyeing was carried out at 50 ° C. for 30 minutes with a jet dyeing machine in the dyeing bath consisting of 5). Wash with hot water at 60 ° C for 20 minutes, surfactant Neugeln
After washing with HC (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku) 0.5g / at 90 ° C for 10 minutes, washing with water, and subsequently in the same dyeing machine, bath ratio of CI Direct Blue 86 (molecular weight 780) 2%, anhydrous sodium sulfate 20% : 5 in a dye bath at 90 ° C for 30 minutes, washed with hot water at 60 ° C for 20 minutes, washed with water at room temperature, and dried with air at 100 ° C for 20 minutes.

As a result, there was obtained a chambray-like different-color dyed woven fabric in which a fine red fineness portion and a thick blue fineness portion were mixed.

Example 2 European linen with a fineness distribution range of 1.8 to 2.5 denier
Brazilian ramie with 50% fineness distribution range 2-20 denier
50% was blended and spun according to Example 1 to obtain a hemp fabric. This fabric was subjected to gas-burning, glue removal, scouring, bleaching and mercerization in the same manner as in Example 1, and then treated in an alkaline bath at 40 ° C. for 20 minutes using a jet dyeing machine. 45% acetic acid 5cc /
And then washed with hot water at 60 ° C., and washed with water at room temperature, and then stained with a jet dyeing machine under the following conditions.

CI Reactive Orange 67 2%, anhydrous sodium sulfate 70g /
, Anhydrous sodium carbonate 8g /, bath ratio 1:15 (bath pH 11.
5) Dyeing at 60 ° C for 30 minutes in a dye bath
Soaped and washed with water.

Continue with CI Direct Blue 108 (molecular weight 895) 2
%, Anhydrous sodium sulfate, 20% for 30 minutes, and then washed at 60 ° C for 20 minutes, washed with water, and dried at 100 ° C for 20 minutes.

As a result, a strongly bluish green yarn-dyed hemp fabric scattered with bright yellow fibers was obtained.

Comparative Example In Example 1, as a direct dye component, 15% of CI Direct Blue 109 (molecular weight: 1011) was used for dyeing, and as a result, the entire surface became a uniform purple linen fabric.

(Effects of the Invention) According to the present invention, by adopting the above-mentioned configuration, it is possible to obtain an excellent dyed-fiber structure having a scaly shape and a first-dyed tone.

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. A hemp fiber structure having a fine or large fineness, wherein the hemp fiber having a fine fineness and the hemp fiber having a large fineness are pre-dyed in the form of a Kasumi which is post-dyed in different hues and has a pre-dyed tone. Unique dyed hemp fiber structure. 2. A method for post-dying a hemp fiber structure having a fine fineness to a fine fineness, wherein mainly the fine fineness fibers are dyed with a reactive dye, while the mainly fine fineness fibers are dyed with a linear dye. A method for dyeing hemp fiber structures, wherein the direct dye provides a different hue from the reactive dye and has a molecular weight of 1000 or less.