JPH0246705B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a chambray pile knitted fabric, and more specifically, a method for producing a chambray pile knitted fabric in which the ground portion and the pile are composed of yarns having different dyeability. It is related to.

Traditionally, chambray pile knitted fabrics have been produced by using real silk as pile yarns, or by twisting or kneading two or more synthetic fiber yarns with different luster and dyeability as pile yarns. ing. However, in the former case, the cost of silk thread is extremely high and the chambray effect is weak. In addition, in the latter method, the filaments are mixed by twisting or by running the yarn in turbulent air to create entanglement between the filaments.
Processing costs for plying or blending fibers are high, and sometimes quality problems may occur due to processing unevenness. Furthermore, in the latter case, yarns obtained by twisting or blending two or more types of synthetic fiber yarns are used as pile yarns, so they tend to have a marbled tone or a heathered tone, making it difficult to obtain a chambray effect. It was hot.

The present invention is intended to eliminate such conventional drawbacks, and its purpose is to obtain a desired chambray pile knitted fabric having a deep and elegant high chambray effect and at a low cost. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a chambray pile knitted fabric that allows for the production of chambray pile knitted fabrics.

That is, in the present invention, synthetic fiber yarns having mutually different dyeability are fed simultaneously as a ground section forming yarn and a loop pile forming yarn, and the ratio of the number of pile stitches to the number of ground section stitches is 1:1, The gist of the present invention is a method for producing a chambray pile knitted fabric, which is characterized in that alternating knitting is carried out with the yarn feeding ratio of the loop pile forming yarn to the ground portion forming yarn being 1.2 to 3.0 times the yarn length.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

First, in the present invention, synthetic fiber yarns having different dyeability are used for the ground part forming yarn, that is, the base forming yarn (hereinafter referred to as ground yarn) and the loop pile forming yarn (hereinafter referred to as pile yarn). However, such synthetic fiber threads may include synthetic fiber threads of the same type but having different dyeability, or synthetic fiber threads of different types. For example, examples of similar synthetic fibers include regular type polyester yarn dyeable with disperse dyes and polyester yarn dyeable type with cationic dyes.

In the present invention, as mentioned above, ground yarns and pile yarns with different dyeability are used, but the ground yarn and pile yarn each use not only one type of thread, but two or more types with different dyeability. Yarn can also be used.

In the present invention, the above-mentioned ground yarn and pile yarn are fed simultaneously to knit the ground portion and the pile portion at the same time, but at this time, the ratio of the number of pile stitches to the number of stitches in the ground portion is set to 1:1. Edit. This is the condition in which the pile density is systematically highest, and this improves the volume, surface quality, and texture of the knitted fabric. Of course, the chambray effect also gives a sense of dignity and luxury.

If the number of stitches in the pile is less than 1 for the number of stitches in the ground section (1), there will be a situation in which the pile does not exist on the stitches in the ground section, and the stitches in the ground section will be visible from between the piles. As a result, the quality of the knitted fabric deteriorates, or the knitted fabric becomes inferior in that it is light and flimsy and has poor volume, making it unsuitable for use as a knitted fabric for clothing. Note that if the number of stitches in the pile exceeds 1 with respect to the number of stitches in the ground section (1), this does not exist due to the mechanism of the knitting machine.

In addition, in the present invention, when simultaneously feeding the ground yarn and pile yarn to knit the ground portion and the pile portion simultaneously, the amount of pile yarn fed to the ground yarn is 1.2 in the ratio according to the yarn length.
Interknit within a range of ~3.0 times.

There are no particular restrictions on the type of knitting machine, and the ratio of the yarn length of the ground section to the yarn length of the pile yarn is 1:1.2 to 1:3.0.
Any knitting machine that can produce piles within this range may be used, and may be either a single knit machine or a double knit machine. In addition, there are no particular restrictions on the texture when inter-knitting, but when inter-knitting is performed using synthetic fiber yarns of the same type as the ground yarn and pile yarn, yarns that can be easily dyed in a dark color are used as the ground yarn. It is preferable to use In addition, when using different types of synthetic fiber yarns, it is preferable to use yarns that can be easily dyed in deep colors as ground yarns, and from a cost standpoint, pile yarns that use a large amount of yarns are preferable. It is preferable to use inexpensive yarn.

The pile knitted fabric thus knitted undergoes the usual knitted fabric dyeing and sorting process, whereby the ground yarns and pile yarns are dyed in similar dark and light colors or in different colors, resulting in a chambray pile knitted fabric having a chambray effect. . For example, by dyeing the ground yarn a dark color and the pile yarn a different light color in the dyeing process, the dark color of the ground section can be visually recognized through the gaps between the piles, or the ground section can be seen through the pile yarn. The chambray effect is produced by the synergy of the combined effects of the yarn colors.

A certain degree of chambray effect can be obtained by simply using synthetic fiber yarns with different dyeability for the ground yarn and pile yarn, but this alone is insufficient, and in order to further enhance the chambray effect, it is necessary to It is necessary to knit with the yarn feeding ratio of pile yarn to yarn in the range of 1.2 to 3.0 times. By doing this, together with the directionality of the pile, it is possible to obtain a Chambray effect that continuously changes over the entire range of visible angles from 0° to 180° with respect to the fabric surface. The preferable range of yarn feeding ratio of pile yarn to ground yarn is 1.3 to 2.5.
It's double.

In this way, there is no need to modify the pile yarn used, just interknit the pile yarn and ground yarn.
A pile knitted fabric that can produce a chambray effect when dyed can be easily obtained at low cost.

In the present invention, the reason why the ratio of the amount of pile yarn fed to the ground yarn fed simultaneously is set to 1.2 to 3.0 times is as follows.

The yarn feeding ratio of pile yarn to ground yarn is
If it is less than 1.2 times, the yarn length of the pile yarn is too short and the pile effect is hardly expressed, which tends to reduce the commercial value, and the separation effect between the color of the ground yarn and the color of the pile yarn is not clear, resulting in complex The appearance of the color is so pronounced that the Chambray effect cannot be fully exhibited. On the other hand, if the yarn feeding ratio of pile yarn to ground yarn exceeds 3.0 times, the pile length becomes too long and does not look good and tends to have poor commercial value, and also from the viewpoint of physical properties, the pile length is too long. As a result, snagging or snags tend to occur, and the chambray effect tends to become diluted as the cover factor of the pile yarn increases.

As mentioned above, the present invention uses yarns with different dyeability as the ground yarn and the pile yarn, and feeds these yarns at the same time. Therefore, the ground part and the pile can be knitted at the same time, and the yarn can be dyed. It is possible to obtain a knitted fabric that can impart a chambray effect when doing so, and a stable chambray effect can be obtained at a low cost without using conventional expensive threads or specially processed threads. It is possible to obtain a pile knitted fabric having the following properties. Furthermore, since the ratio of the amount of pile yarn fed to the ground yarn is 1.2 to 3.0 times, there is an advantage that it is possible to obtain a pile knitted fabric having a deep and elegant high chambray effect. Furthermore, since the ratio of the number of stitches in the pile to the number of stitches in the ground portion is set to 1:1, it is possible to obtain a pile knitted fabric that is rich in volume and has excellent surface quality and texture.

Next, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.

Example 1 A single-pile circular knitting machine with a pot diameter of 30 inches and a needle density of 28 gauge was used to knit a plain loop-pile knitted fabric in which the ratio of the number of pile stitches to the number of stitches in the ground section was 1:1. . At this time, the yarn feeding amount ratio is the pile yarn feeding amount to the ground yarn feeding amount 1.
It was set at 1.73. In addition, as for the constituent yarns, the ground yarn was a drawn yarn of 75 denier/24 filament polyester cation dyeable yarn, and the pile yarn was a drawn yarn of 100 denier/48 filament polyester disperse dyeable regular yarn, which was mixed and knitted.

The obtained knitted fabric was treated in a continuous relaxer at 96°C for 2 minutes, and then in a jet dyeing machine at 125°C.
Stained for 45 min at °C. At this time, the cationically dyeable yarn used as the ground yarn was dyed black, and the regular yarn used as the pile yarn was dyed a light pink color. As a result, a deep chambray pile knitted fabric suitable for elegant women's outwear was obtained.

Example 2 A knitted fabric having the same structure as in Example 1 was knitted using the same knitting machine. At this time, the yarn feeding amount ratio was such that the pile yarn feeding amount was 1.55 to the ground yarn feeding amount of 1.
In addition, the yarn that makes up the ground yarn is 75 denier/
A processed yarn consisting of a cationically dyeable 24 filament polyester yarn, a pile yarn, was inter-knitted with a drawn yarn of 70 denier/24 filament nylon 6 irregular cross section yarn.

The resulting knitted fabric was treated in a continuous relaxer at 96°C for 2 minutes, then in a jet dyer at 115°C.
and stained for 45 minutes. At this time, the processed yarn of the cationic dyeable yarn, which is the ground yarn, was dyed dark blue, and the nylon 6 yarn, which was the pile yarn, was dyed in a light wine color. As a result, a chambray pile knitted fabric having a silk-like luster and suitable for elegant women's outwear was obtained.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Synthetic fiber yarns having mutually different dyeability are fed simultaneously as a ground portion forming yarn and a loop pile forming yarn, and the ratio of the number of pile stitches to the number of ground section stitches is 1: 1. A method for producing a chambray pile knitted fabric, characterized in that alternating knitting is carried out with the yarn feeding ratio of the loop pile forming yarn to the ground portion forming yarn being 1.2 to 3.0 times the yarn length. 2. The manufacturing method according to claim 1, in which a yarn dyed in a dark color is used as the ground portion forming yarn, and a yarn dyed in a light color is used as the loop pile forming yarn.