JPH09188938A - Base fabric for padding cloth and padding cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a base fabric for padding cloth for replacing wool pad, excellent in shape-retaining property and durability to washing and suitable for lightened clothes by using blended yarn blending a core sheath type conjugate fiber arranging a low-melting point component in the sheath part with a polyester hollow fiber having high hollow ratio at a specific blend gain ratio. SOLUTION: This base fabric for padding cloth is obtained by using a blended yarn of 3-40wt.% core-sheath type conjugate fiber 3 arranging a low melting point component in the sheath part with a polyester hollow fiber having 15-40% hollow ratio. The base fabric is useful for body pad for interlining of clothes of gentlemen and ladies, breast raising pad and shoulder pad and silhouette can be improved when base fabric and padding cloth arranging a blended spun yarn in only weft are used for business suit, etc.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an interlining material for clothes using a core-sheath type composite fiber having good bending rigidity and shape-retaining property and a polyester hollow fiber, particularly a body core and chest of a middle-weight garment for men and women. The present invention relates to an interlining base cloth and an interlining used for an additional core and a shoulder bus core.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, interlining fabrics and interlinings are generally used for imparting three-dimensional moldability and shape retention without impairing the texture of the outer fabric of clothing and for further partial reinforcement. It is intended to facilitate sewing and improve sewability, and has been conventionally used mainly for men's clothing and women's clothing. Conventional woven woolen fabrics used for men's and women's clothing depend on the so-called resilience (flexural rigidity and recovery) of the weft yarn for its shape-retaining function. In order to give the interlining the firmness and elasticity necessary, weft yarns are made from special animal hair such as goats, camels, and karacles that are mixed and spun with rayon and wool. It was Animal hair has 10 denier
Since it is difficult to spun a fine count of spun yarn because it is used in the range of 80, it becomes a thick count of about (8 to 18 count, single yarn). 18
It becomes 0 g / m ² or more, which is considerably heavy. However, in many cases, the above wefts alone do not have sufficient elasticity and firmness as a shape retention function. At present, the necessary elasticity and elasticity is provided by adding a resin agent for adjusting the texture in the process of organizing and finishing the hair core. However, the resin agent provided for adjusting the feeling is partly dropped off at the stage of consumption, for example, washing clothes (dry cleaning, washing with water), and generally, the bending rigidity is reduced by about 30% by one washing. . That is, the conventional woolen fabric is mechanically unstable, and not only is it heavy, but also the shape retention function is deteriorated.

In view of the above-mentioned drawbacks of the conventional products, one of the inventors of the present invention has already proposed a base cloth for interlining, especially a thin and soft base cloth suitable as an interlining for thin blouses and dresses for women. Invented the manufacturing method. (JP-A-5-44158, JP-A-3-51340, JP-A-4-316669, JP-A-3-51304, etc.) Further, there is a woven fabric interlining containing a core-sheath composite thermoplastic synthetic resin. (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 1-1746
34)

[0004]

Recently, consumers do not like heavy and hard clothes. This tendency is getting stronger. Therefore, the table cloth is light, thin and soft,
In the making of clothes, technology that emphasizes the feeling of wearing is progressing. However, the interlining material that constitutes clothes, especially the hair interlining material, has hardly changed from the conventional one, which is an obstacle to the purpose of modern clothing making. In particular, the mechanical function of shape retention (springiness and elasticity) is required to retain the fabric as it is, and to reduce its weight in the same manner as the surface fabric. However, when animal hair is used, only a thick-count yarn can be obtained, and therefore, there remains a problem that weight reduction cannot be avoided. An object of the present invention is to provide a base fabric for interlinings for hair cores and an interlining, which is excellent in shape retention, does not change its function even after washing, and is used for clothing, which is light in weight. Is.

[0005]

In order to achieve the above object, the first aspect of the present invention is to provide at least a part of a mixed yarn of a core-sheath type composite fiber having a low melting point component in a sheath portion and a polyester hollow fiber. For interlining, wherein the core-sheath type composite fiber is contained in an amount of 3 to 40% by weight with respect to the entire mixed yarn, and the polyester hollow fiber has a hollow ratio of 15 to 40%. It is a base cloth, and the second has a twist coefficient of 60 to
170 is the base fabric for interlining according to the first aspect of the invention, and the third is the interlining according to the first or second aspect, wherein the polyester hollow fiber is a crimped fiber. The fourth is a base cloth for use, in which the core-sheath type composite fiber has an area ratio of the core portion of 45 to 55%, the low melting point component of the sheath portion has a melting point of 100 to 190 ° C., and the fineness of the single yarn is 2 to 8 denier is a base fabric for interlining according to the first, second or third invention, and the fifth is a fabric which is a woven fabric and whose cover factor is a warp. 7.0-15.0, Weft 1
0.0 to 18.0, the first, second, and
A base fabric for interlining according to the third or fourth invention, the sixth of which
Is the base fabric for interlining according to claim 1, wherein the mixed yarn is used only for wefts, and the seventh is for interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 6. The present invention relates to an interlining material, which is obtained by fusing a low melting point component of a base cloth.

In the present invention, a spun yarn is produced by blending a necessary amount of heat-sealing fibers and a polyester hollow fiber at the time of blending raw materials (sliver or slubble blending) in the preceding step of obtaining a spun yarn, and blending them. To do. The heat-fusible fiber has a low melting point resin having a melting point of 100 to 190 ° C. and having a sheath portion made of polyethylene terephthalate,
Two-layer core-sheath staple fiber using polyester resin made of ordinary polyethylene terephthalate in the core
Use The spun fibers are heat-sealed between the fibers by heat treatment to give the yarn and the woven fabric the rigidity required as an interlining. This rigidity increases in proportion to the amount of heat-sealing fibers to be heat-sealed, that is, the amount of core-sheath type composite fibers, and this amount is preferably 3 to 40%, and the amount used is 3
If it is less than%, the rigidity of the yarn or the woven fabric is insufficient, and 4
If it exceeds 0%, it will have paper-like rigidity,
Not suitable as a textile interlining.

[0007]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The structure of the interlining and the method for manufacturing the interlining will be described below. 100% cotton and 10 polyester for warp
0% and 30-50 count single yarn of blended product or 30-50
Use count yarn. In this case, the material and the thickness of the thread are appropriately selected according to the desired feeling, thickness and rigidity. The weft is made of polyethylene terephthalate for the purpose of weight reduction.
Polyethylene terephthalate having a hollow ratio of 15 to 40% and a natural crimp and a polyethylene terephthalate melting point of 100 to 190 ° C.
Is a staple fiber having a two-layer core-sheath structure in which a sheath is formed of a low melting point resin and a polyester resin made of ordinary polyethylene terephthalate is used for the core, and the core has a constitutional area ratio of 45. Is within the range of 55% to 55%, and accordingly, the proportion of monofilaments having a sheath area ratio of 55 to 45% is 2 to 8%.
It consists of a two-layer blend yarn of heat-bonded fibers of denier, preferably 3-6 denier polyester staple fibers.

In this case, if the hollow ratio is less than 15%, the effect of weight reduction is reduced, and if it exceeds 40%, the hollow fibers may burst during dyeing, which is not preferable.
In addition, the melting point (MP) of the low fusion resin of the sheath of the heat fusion fiber
Is less than 100 ° C., the resin may be remelted by an ironing press during sewing, which is not preferable. Further, if the (MP) exceeds 190 ° C., the temperature required for fusing becomes higher than the processing temperature of general cloth, and other fibers may be damaged, which is not preferable. Spinning number is 10
No. 25 single yarn, 18 especially for the purpose of weight reduction
-25 count single yarn is preferred. When the fineness of the single fiber is less than 2 denier, the elasticity and elasticity of the interlining base fabric and the interlining are decreased. When the fineness of the single fiber exceeds 8 denier, the number of fiber constituents in the yarn cross section is insufficient and the spinning It cannot be adopted together because it impairs sexuality. Further, the twist coefficient of the spun yarn used in the present invention is 60 to 170. If it is less than 60, yarn breakage occurs frequently during weaving, and if it exceeds 170, so-called billies (snarls) occur, and weft loosening and the like occur. There are some drawbacks that cannot be adopted together. The preferred twist factor is 70-160. The twist coefficient in the present invention is calculated by the following formula.

Further, regarding the cover factors used in the present invention, the warp yarns are 7.0 to 15.0 and the weft yarns are 10.0 to 18.
0, preferably warp 8.0 to 14.0, weft 11.0
˜17.0. If the cover factor of the warp is less than 7.0, slippage occurs during sewing, and if it exceeds 15.0, the texture of the interlining base fabric and interlining is hardened. The cover factor of the weft is 10.0 to 18.0, and when it is less than 10.0 and exceeds 18.0, the same phenomenon as in the case of the warp occurs, and both cannot be adopted in the present invention. . The cover factor of the present invention is calculated by the following equation.

As a processing method, a woven cloth is washed, heated, and finished to obtain a product. In the washing step, a desizing machine and a washing machine are used, and impurities (warp sizing agent, spinning oil agent, etc.) adhering to the weaving step are appropriately removed with chemicals and water. In the heating step, the amount of heat required for heat fusion is applied to perform heat fusion. The processing must be uniformly heated by a box or roll kept at a constant temperature. As the machine, a heat set machine, a high temperature calender machine or the like is used. Finishing process has good quality (width, density, etc.)
This is a process of keeping the quality constant, and a sorting, processing tenter machine, sanforize machine, etc. are used. The interlining material obtained as described above can be reduced in weight with a weight of 120 to 180 g / m ³ , and has the same bending rigidity as that of the conventional hair interlining material, and changes in texture. Less is.

When the spun yarn according to claim 1 of the present invention is used for the warp and weft of the interlining base fabric, the rigidity of the interlining base fabric tends to be too high and tends to become paper-like. It may be better that the bending rigidity in the longitudinal direction is soft and the bending rigidity in the weft direction is hard. In that case, a woven fabric interlining in which the spun yarn of the present invention is used only as a weft is used. For example, when used as an interlining material such as a suit, there is an advantage that the silhouette becomes good.

[0012]

[Example 1] 100% polyester, 40 count,
Polyester terephthalate with a hollow ratio of 37%, 6 denier, 128 mm and a cut length, which is made of polyethylene terephthalate for the weft yarn and the weft yarn, and terephthalic acid / isophthalic acid = 99/10 as a sheath resin. 50% low melting point resin and 50% regular resin as core resin, a sheath / core-type two-layer structure heat fusion fiber, 3 denier, 128 mm cut length, the former 93%, the latter 93% With a composition ratio of 7%, a single yarn was spun and used at a spinning number of 310 twists / m for 11.5 count. The plain cloth was woven at a weaving density of 39 warps / hour and 35 wefts / hour. After removing the sizing agent from the greige using a continuous desizing machine with an enzyme desizing agent, the heat setting machine was operated at 100 ° C. for 3 days.
Heat treatment was performed for 0 seconds, and heat fusion was performed. Finally, the final finishing was performed using a sanforize machine. This gives a product density of 41 threads / inch, 37 wefts / inch, and a weight of 17
A base fabric for interlining and an interlining having the following characteristic values: 8 g / m ³ , flexural rigidity, weft 0.86 gf.cm ² / cm, and shear rigidity 0.80 gf / cm · deg were obtained. The results are shown in [Table 1].

[0013]

[Table 1] ○ Good × Poor [Table 1] shows the composition of the interlining base fabric of the present invention and the characteristic values of the interlining in comparison with Examples 1 and 2 and the conventional interlining.

[0014]

[Comparative Example 1] Example 1 except that 100% warp / cotton, 50% weft / wool hair and 50% rayon were used as materials.
A base cloth for interlining and an interlining were produced in the same manner as in. The results are shown in [Table 1].

[0015]

[Example 2] 100% polyester warp yarn, 40 count,
Polyester terephthalate having a hollow ratio of 37%, 6 denier and 128 mm cut length is used for the single yarn and the weft, and terephthalic acid / isophthalic acid = 90/10 as a sheath resin. A sheath / core-type two-layer structure heat-bonding fiber 3 denier having a composition ratio of 50% low melting point resin and 50% regular resin as a core resin, 128 mm cut length,
The former 93%, the latter 7% composition ratio of 410 with a spinning machine
A spun yarn of a 20th yarn and a single yarn was spun and used at a turn / m.
A plain woven fabric was woven with a woven cloth density of 45 warps / inch and weft of 42 threads / inch. The processing steps were the same as in Example 1.
As a result, the product density is 48 pieces / inch, weft 43 pieces / inch, weight 123g / m ³ , bending rigidity 0.50gf.cm ²
/ Cm, a shearing rigidity of 0.53 gf / cm-deg. The results are shown in [Table 1].

[0016]

[Comparative Example 2] Material: 65% polyester, 3 cotton
A base cloth for interlining and an interlining were produced in the same manner as in Example 2 except that 5% and weft / wool hair-100% were used. The results are shown in [Table 1].

[0017]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a base fabric for an interlining and an interlining which are excellent in shape retention property and lighter in weight as compared with the conventional hair interlining. Furthermore, in Example 1, as compared with Comparative Example 1,
The shape retention is almost the same, but the weight is about 20% lighter. In Example 2, although the weight is almost the same as in Comparative Example 2, the bending rigidity is large and the shape retention is good. While there are
In Comparative Example 2, the bending rigidity was small and the shape retention was poor. In each of Examples 1 and 2, the shape was light and the shape retention was good, and it was possible to make comfortable men's clothing. Further, when the interlining cloth and the interlining using the spun yarn of the present invention only for wefts are used for suits and the like, the silhouette of suits and the like is improved.

 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of front page (72) Takehisa Otsuka 4-53, Oi, Ogaki-shi, Gifu Tokai Samo Co., Ltd. (72) Tsutomu Tanase 4-53, Oi, Ogaki, Gifu Tokai-samo Within the corporation

Claims (7)

[Claims] 1. A fabric comprising at least a part of a mixed yarn of a core-sheath type composite fiber having a low melting point component in a sheath portion and a polyester hollow fiber, the core-sheath type composite fiber being based on the whole mixed yarn. A base fabric for interlining, characterized in that the content of the polyester hollow fiber is 3 to 40% by weight, and the hollow ratio of the polyester fiber is 15 to 40%. 2. The base fabric for interlining according to claim 1, wherein the twisting coefficient of the mixed yarn is 60 to 170. 3. The interlining fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester hollow fiber is a crimped fiber. 4. The core-sheath type composite fiber has an area ratio of the core portion of 45.
~ 55%, and the melting point of the low melting point component of the sheath is 100 to 19
It is 0 degreeC and single yarn fineness is 2-8 denier, The base fabric for interlinings of Claim 1, 2 or 3 characterized by the above-mentioned. 5. The fabric is a woven fabric, and the cover factors thereof are warp yarns 7.0 to 15.0 and weft yarns 10.0 to 18.0. The base fabric for the interlining described. 6. The base fabric for interlining according to claim 1, wherein the mixed yarn is used only for the weft. 7. An interlining material, which is obtained by fusing the low melting point component of the interlining fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6.