JPH0874140A - Manufacture of light cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To produce a polyester fiber cloth excellent in light feeling and surface quality by using a conjugate processing yarn containing core-sheath conjugate yarn having a core consisting of an alkali easily soluble polymer. CONSTITUTION: A core-sheath conjugate multifilament yarn is composed of a core 1 consisting of an alkali easily soluble polymer obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 5-sulfoisophthalic acid and a sheath 2 consisting of polyethylene terephthalate as an alkali slightly soluble polymer. The alkali easily soluble polymer as the core 1 is exposed outside by penetrating through a gp of the sheath 2 having width d which is less than 1/5 of the fiber diameter. Further, the alkali easily soluble polymer occupies 20-50% of the total cross section of the fiber. The conjugate yarn is used as shorter yarn and an alkali slightly soluble polyester multifilament is used as longer yarn. A mixed yarn having a yarn length difference of 2-30% as a phone is subjected to fluid mixing treatment to obtain a conjugate processing yarn. A plain fabric is produced by the conjugate processing yarn and then the core polymer is dissolved and removed by an alkali treatment followed by a final treatment of dyeing to obtain the objective light cloth.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a lightweight fabric having a light weight feeling and good surface quality.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art It is strongly desired to reduce the weight of a garment as one of the functions of the garment, and complicated switching on a sewing surface and accessories cause an increase in the weight of the garment itself.

Conventionally, as a measure for reducing the weight of cloth,
The use of synthetic fibers obtained by a method such as hollow spinning has been studied. However, synthetic fibers produced by hollow spinning have the drawback that the hollows collapse when subjected to thread processing such as twisting and false twisting fluid disturbance processing. After the formation of the fabric is completed, the easily soluble component is dissolved to stably retain the hollow portion in the fabric. However, in all of these hollow fibers, when the hollowness is less than 20%, stable physical properties are obtained but the weight saving effect is poor, and when the hollowness is increased, the weight saving effect is recognized, but the fibrils of the fiber are recognized. There is a problem in that the deterioration phenomenon is likely to occur and the quality of the cloth is degraded.

As a method of solving this fibrillation problem, there is a method of using ordinary synthetic fibers in combination and adjusting the amount of both used and devising the texture, and then weaving, one of which is JP-A-5-331737. In the publication, it is proposed to arrange yarns having a fineness equal to or more than the hollow filament at intervals of 3 mm or less, but in this case as well, the hollow filament is exposed on the surface of the fabric and the fibrillation phenomenon cannot be completely prevented. .

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and it is an object of the present invention to provide a lightweight fabric which is lightweight and which is less likely to deteriorate in surface quality due to fibrillation.

[0006]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted extensive studies to solve the above problems and, as a result, have used a special polyester core-sheath composite fiber and an ordinary synthetic fiber, and The present invention has been accomplished by finding that it is possible to reduce the weight and maintain a high quality by providing a composite processed yarn by providing the composite processed yarn.

That is, according to the present invention, the alkali-soluble polymer is arranged in the core of the monofilament, the alkali sparingly soluble polyester-based polymer is arranged in the sheath, and the sheath has a monofilament in the longitudinal direction of the monofilament. Diameter 1
Alkali-soluble polymer is arranged in a width of / 5 or less, and the ratio of the alkali-soluble polymer occupies 20 to 20% of the total cross-sectional area.
50% polyester core-sheath composite fiber has a short yarn length, synthetic fiber made of a poorly soluble alkali polymer has a long yarn length, and a difference in yarn length between both fibers is 2 to 30% The gist of the present invention is a method for manufacturing a lightweight fabric, which is characterized by performing an alkali treatment after weaving using.

The present invention will be described in detail below. First, in the present invention, the alkali-soluble polymer is arranged in the core of the monofilament, and the alkali sparingly soluble polyester polymer is arranged in the sheath, and the sheath has 1/5 of the diameter of the monofilament in the longitudinal direction of the monofilament. A polyester-based core-sheath composite fiber in which the alkali-soluble polymer is arranged in the following width and the proportion of the alkali-soluble polymer is 20 to 50% of the total cross-sectional area is used.

In such a polyester-based core-sheath composite fiber, for example, a single filament has a cross section as shown in FIG. 1, an easily soluble alkali polymer is contained in the core portion 1, and an alkali-resistant polymer is contained in the sheath portion 2. The soluble polyester polymer is arranged, and the alkali-soluble polymer is arranged in a part of the sheath portion with a width d of ⅕ or less of the diameter of the single filament. Further, it has a characteristic that a part of the alkali-soluble polymer in the sheath part and the alkali-soluble polymer in the core part are eluted by the alkali reduction process such as the dyeing finishing process and the inside of the fiber becomes hollow. Therefore, a fabric using this composite fiber can be excellent in lightweight feeling and bulging feeling.

The polyester core-sheath composite fiber forms a hollow portion after elution processing of the alkali easily soluble polymer, and the fiber is filled with the alkali easily soluble polymer during the processing steps up to that point. Therefore, unlike the conventional method in which the hollow portion is formed at the time of spinning, the hollow portion is not flattened or disappears even when the yarn processing such as false twisting is performed.

The alkali sparingly soluble polyester polymer to be placed in the sheath portion of the polyester core / sheath composite fiber is represented by polyethylene terephthalate, and terephthalic acid is a main acid component, and an alkylene glycol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably ethylene. A polymer composed of polyester having glycol or tetramethylene glycol as a main glycol component can be mentioned.

On the other hand, as the alkali-soluble polymer mainly used for the core part, the above-mentioned alkali-insoluble polyester polymer is added to isophthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid,
Diphenyldicarboxylic acid, diphenoxyethanedicarboxylic acid, β-2-oxyethoxybenzoic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, sebacic acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, trimellitate Acid, pyromellitic acid, a polymer composed of a copolyester in which a third component such as polyalkylene glycol is copolymerized in an amount of 1 to 15 mol% or polyalkylene glycol, sodium alkyl sulfonate
An example is a polymer made of polyester blended with about 15% by weight.

The alkali solubility of each polymer is obtained by spinning and drawing these polymers into fibers by a conventional method.
Treatment was carried out at 70 ° C. for 60 minutes in an aqueous solution of caustic soda of 00 g / liter, and from the weight before treatment (A) and the weight after treatment (B), a formula of ((A−B) ÷ A) × 100% was obtained. It is preferable to use a combination of polymers that can be evaluated by the above method and the difference in this numerical value is 10% or more.

The proportion of the alkali-soluble polymer in the cross-sectional area of the polyester core-sheath composite fiber used in the present invention is
20 to 50%. If the proportion of the alkali-soluble polymer is less than 20%, the desired lightweight feeling cannot be obtained for the cloth,
If it exceeds 50%, the strength will be reduced, or fibrils will be easily formed during use, and only a fabric that is difficult to put into practical use can be obtained.

Further, it is important to dispose the alkali-soluble polymer in the sheath portion of the core-sheath composite fiber in the longitudinal direction of the monofilament so as to have a width of ⅕ or less of the diameter of the monofilament. If it exceeds 1/5, fibrillation and strength reduction during use are remarkable.

In the present invention, a composite processed yarn of the above-mentioned polyester core-sheath composite fiber and synthetic fiber made of a poorly soluble alkali polymer is used. This poorly soluble alkali polymer can be arbitrarily selected according to the purpose and application as long as the alkali solubility described above is 10% or more smaller than that of the easily soluble alkali polymer in the core-sheath composite fiber, and the material can also be selected. It is not particularly limited.

The polyester core-sheath composite fiber is made into a short yarn length, the synthetic fiber made of an alkali-insoluble polymer is made into a long yarn length, and a yarn length difference of 2 to 30% is provided to form a composite processed yarn.
When the yarn length difference is less than 2%, the ratio of the core-sheath composite fibers protruding to the surface of the composite processed yarn in the longitudinal direction increases, and the core-sheath composite fibers protruding on this surface remarkably promote the fibrillation of the fabric. Become. When the difference in yarn length exceeds 30%, synthetic fibers made of a poorly soluble alkali polymer on the long yarn length float up in a loop in the composite processed yarn, which easily causes problems such as popping out of the fabric surface and weavability. Become.

Next, reference will be made to a method for producing a composite textured yarn of the above-mentioned core-sheath composite fiber and a synthetic fiber composed of a poorly soluble alkali polymer.

Both fibers may be subjected to yarn processing such as twisting and false twisting in advance. The latter synthetic fiber made of a poorly soluble alkali polymer is not particularly limited even if a plurality of yarns having different materials and forms are combined into a single yarn.

For both fibers, the former is a short yarn length and the latter is a long yarn length, and a yarn length difference of 2 to 30% is provided to form a composite processed yarn.
Examples of the method include fluid disturbance treatment and ply twist. The mixing ratio of both fibers is such that the weight ratio of the former in the composite processed yarn is 2
It is preferably 0 to 80%.

A cloth is woven using the composite processed yarn thus obtained. When the weight percentage of the core-sheath composite fiber in the composite processed yarn is high, the use of the composite processed yarn in both the history and the history makes the fabric easily fibrillated during long-term use.
In this case, fibrillation can be suppressed by adjusting the weight ratio of the composite processed yarn in the entire fabric or by devising the structure.

Next, the cloth thus obtained is subjected to an alkali treatment. The alkali-soluble polymer of the polyester-sheath composite fiber is removed as much as possible to form a hollow portion in the core portion. As the alkali treatment condition, it is preferable to select a condition that removes only the alkali-soluble polymer, but the alkali-insoluble polymer can also be set to have a weight-reducing effect depending on the use and the desired texture.

[0023]

When the polyester core-sheath composite fiber is used for weaving and then alkali-treated as in the present invention, a more reliable hollow effect can be obtained as compared with the case of using a fiber having a hollow cross section during spinning. It is possible to obtain a fabric of stable quality without causing a fibrillation phenomenon due to impact or the like in each process until the fabric is formed. By controlling the appearance state of the polyester-sheath composite fiber on the surface of the fabric by controlling the amount used and mixing with other synthetic fibers, the effect of reducing the weight of the fabric is exhibited, It is possible to obtain a cloth that suppresses contact with the surface of the cloth, does not deteriorate the surface quality even after long-term use, and has practically no hindrance.

[0024]

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. The evaluation in the examples was performed by the following method.

(1) Light-weight feeling A fabric of 1 m ² was subjected to a sensory test by 10 evaluators, and ◎:
It feels very lightweight. ○: There is a feeling of light weight. Δ: There is little lightness. X: Light weight is not felt at all. The evaluation was made according to the above criteria, and the most numerous evaluations were used to evaluate the fabric.

(2) Surface quality of fabric A wear test was conducted by the Gakushin-type wear method in accordance with JIS L-1084, and the appearance change of the fabric before and after abrasion was evaluated. A: No change. ○: Almost no change. △: A little changed. X: Significant change. It evaluated by the standard of.

(3) Weaving property The weaving property was evaluated as ◯: good. X: Bad. It evaluated by the standard of.

Example 1 A polymer obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 2.5 mol% of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid was arranged as a readily soluble alkali polymer in the core portion 1 of the monofilament having the cross-sectional shape shown in FIG. Polyethylene terephthalate is arranged as a poorly soluble alkali polymer (the difference in alkali solubility between the easily soluble alkali polymer and the poorly soluble alkali polymer is 1
9.1%), the area occupied by the alkali-soluble polymer is 3
A core-sheath composite fiber of 150 denier 48 filaments (diameter of monofilament 18 μm) was obtained by spinning with a composite spinning machine with 5% of the width of the easily soluble alkali polymer in the sheath portion being 3 μm.

A polyester multifilament 100 denier 48 filaments composed of the core-sheath composite fiber and a poorly soluble alkali polymer was supplied at an overfeed rate of 2% and 15%, respectively, and subjected to fluid disturbance treatment to be mixed to prepare a composite processed yarn. did.

Next, using this composite processed yarn as warp and weft, a plain weave fabric having a warp density of 73 threads / inch and a weft density of 42 threads / inch was prepared.

Subsequently, 10 g of caustic soda was added to this woven fabric.
After the alkali-soluble polymer was removed by subjecting it to alkali treatment at a temperature of 100 ° C for 30 minutes, the dye Foron Rub
inS-CTC 0.5% owf and Foron N. Blue S
-CTC 3.0% owf, Nikkasan Salt SN-130 0.5 g / l as an auxiliary agent, acetic acid 0.2 cc / l After dyeing with a dyeing solution at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes, visnol P-705 5 g / l A reduction wash was performed in a bath at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes, and a final set at 170 ° C. for 1 minute was performed using a pin tenter to obtain a lightweight fabric according to the present invention.

The hollow portion of the obtained fabric is flattened,
It was kept completely without disappearing, and it was of high quality with an excellent feeling of lightness and swelling.

Example 2 A core-sheath composite fiber of 75 denier and 24 filaments composed of the same monofilament as the core-sheath composite fiber used in Example 1 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

Next, each of the obtained core-sheath composite fibers and polyester multifilament 75 denier 36 filaments composed of an alkali-insoluble polymer was false twisted with 3
000T / M, spindle speed 35 × 10 ⁴ rpm,
False twisting was performed under the conditions of a heater temperature of 200 ° C., an overfeed rate of 2%, and a winding overfeed rate of 4.0%.

Subsequently, the false twisted textured yarn of the core-sheath composite fiber and the false twisted textured yarn of the polyester multifilament are supplied at an overfeed rate of 2% and 5%, respectively, and subjected to a fluid disturbing treatment to mix fibers, and the composite processing is performed. I got a thread. Using this composite processed yarn as warp and weft, a plain weave fabric having a warp density of 122 threads / inch and a weft density of 70 threads / inch was prepared. The obtained woven fabric was subjected to the same alkali treatment and dyeing treatment as in Example 1 to obtain a lightweight fabric of the present invention. The hollow part of the obtained fabric was completely maintained without flattening or disappearing, and was excellent in lightweight feeling and bulging feeling and was of high quality.

Example 3 Nylon multifilament 70 denier 36 filaments composed of the core-sheath composite fiber and the alkali sparingly soluble polymer used in Example 2 were supplied at an overfeed rate of 2% and 7%, respectively, and subjected to fluid disturbance treatment to mix. It was refined to obtain a composite processed yarn.

Next, a nylon multifilament 70 denier 36 filament was used as a warp, and the above composite processed yarn was used as a weft, and the warp density was 110 / inch, the weft density was 55 /
A flat-textured woven fabric was produced.

This woven fabric was alkali-treated with caustic soda 10 g / liter at a temperature of 100 ° C. for 30 minutes to remove the alkali-soluble polymer, and then the dye SuminolMi was used.
llingRed RS 0.5% owf, Levelan N as an auxiliary agent
1 with dye solution containing KD 2% owf and acetic acid 0.2cc / liter
After dyeing at 00 ° C for 30 minutes, a final set was performed at 160 ° C for 1 minute with a pin tenter to obtain a lightweight fabric according to the present invention. The hollow part of the obtained fabric was completely kept without flattening or disappearing, and was excellent in light weight and swelling feeling, and had a high-quality rich tone pattern.

Example 4 In the core-sheath composite fiber used in Example 1, the proportion of the alkali-soluble polymer in the monofilament was 20% of the cross-sectional area.
% And a core-sheath composite fiber was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the total denier after spinning and drawing was 75 denier 24 filaments.

A polyester multifilament 75 denier 36 filaments composed of the core-sheath composite fiber and a poorly soluble alkali polymer was used, and an overfeed rate of 5 was obtained.
%, 25%, and the mixture was subjected to fluid disturbance treatment and mixed to prepare a composite processed yarn. This composite processed yarn was used as a warp and weft to prepare a woven fabric having the same density and texture as in Example 2, and then subjected to the same alkali and dyeing treatment to obtain a lightweight fabric of the present invention. The hollow portion of the obtained fabric was completely maintained without flattening or disappearing, and was excellent in lightweight feeling, bulging feeling, strength, and high quality.

Comparative Example 1 A comparative example was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the oversheath ratio of the core-sheath composite fiber and the polyester multifilament in the composite processed yarn used in Example 1 was set to 15% and 2%, respectively. The fabric was obtained.

Comparative Example 2 In the composite processed yarn used in Example 2, the overfeed ratios of the false twisted processed yarns of the core-sheath composite fiber and the polyester multifilament were 2% and 35%, respectively. A fabric of Comparative Example was obtained in the same manner as in 2.

Comparative Example 3 In the core-sheath composite fiber used in Example 1, the proportion of the easily soluble alkali-soluble polymer in the monofilament in the cross-sectional area was 60.
A fabric of Comparative Example was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the content was set to%.

Comparative Example 4 In the core-sheath composite fiber used in Example 1, the ratio of the easily soluble alkali-soluble polymer in the monofilament to the cross-sectional area of 10
A fabric of Comparative Example was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the content was set to%.

Comparative Example 5 50 denier 24 filaments having a hollow ratio of 35% and made of polyethylene terephthalate spun and drawn by a melt spinning machine using a hollow nozzle (75 denier 24 filament core-sheath composite fiber and monofilament outer diameter of Example 2) The same) was used to false-twist the polyester hollow fiber and the polyester multifilament 75 denier 36 filament under the same false-twisting conditions as in Example 2.

The polyester false fiber false twisted yarn and the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn thus obtained were respectively fed at an overfeed rate of 2% and 5%, and subjected to fluid disturbance treatment to be mixed to obtain a composite finished yarn. . Using this composite processed yarn as warp and weft, warp density 122 threads / inch, weft density 70 threads /
After producing a flat-woven fabric of Inui, the same dyeing treatment as in Example 1 was performed to obtain a fabric of Comparative Example. Examples 1 to 4 obtained
Table 1 also shows the main configurations of the fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 5 and the evaluation results.

In the table, "core sheath 35% 150d o.
"f 2%" is the ratio of the easily soluble alkali-soluble polymer of the monofilament in the core-sheath conjugate fiber is 35% of the cross-sectional area, the total denier is 150 denier, and the overfeed rate at the time of making the composite processed yarn is 2% Means that. Further, PET fiber means polyester multifilament, N fiber means nylon multifilament, and other used yarns are shown in the same format.

[0048]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the fabrics of Examples 1 to 5 according to the present invention were rich in lightness and swelling and were of high quality. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 in which the core-sheath composite fiber is used for the long yarn length has a problem in surface quality. Comparative Example 2 in which the yarn length ratio of the alkali-insoluble polyester multifilament having a long yarn length is too large has problems in surface quality and weavability. In Comparative Example 3 in which the proportion of the alkali-soluble polymer in the core-sheath composite fiber is too large, the lightweight feeling is sufficient, but the fiber thickness is small, so that fibrillation is likely to occur and there is a problem in quality. Comparative Example 4 in which the ratio of the alkali-soluble polymer in the core-sheath composite fiber is too small
On the contrary, fibrillation does not occur, and there is no problem in quality, but there is a drawback that the hollow effect is poor and the feeling of lightness is lacking. In Comparative Example 5 in which the hollow fiber is used by false twisting, not only the hollow portion is deformed during false twisting but the hollow effect is lost, but also fibrillation is likely to occur, and there is a problem in quality.

[0050]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, a polyester two-component core-sheath composite fiber in which an alkali-soluble polymer is arranged in the core and the microslit of the sheath as well as a normal synthetic fiber, and a yarn length difference is provided between them. A composite processed yarn is prepared, and a fabric is formed using the composite processed yarn, and then the alkali-soluble polymer is removed. Thus, a fabric having a lightweight feeling and excellent surface quality can be provided. Further, by devising the material, form, etc. of the synthetic fiber, it becomes possible to manufacture a fabric of higher quality and rich in design and functionality.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of a polyester-core-sheath composite fiber used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 Width of 1 core 2 sheath 2 d sheath in which alkali-soluble polymer is arranged

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A monofilament core is provided with an alkali-soluble polymer, a sheath is provided with an alkali sparingly soluble polyester polymer, and the sheath has a diameter of 1 of the monofilament in the longitudinal direction of the monofilament. / 5 or less width of the alkali-soluble polymer is arranged, the polyester core-sheath conjugate fiber in which the proportion of the alkali-soluble polymer is 20 to 50% of the total cross-sectional area is made into a short yarn length, A method for producing a lightweight fabric, characterized in that the synthetic fiber is used as a long yarn length, and a weaving is performed using a composite processed yarn configured so that the difference in yarn length between the two fibers is 2 to 30%, and then alkali treatment is performed. .