JPH0860471A - Polyester multifilament yarn and combined filament yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To obtain a knitted fabric having new touch feeling with both soft and dry touch feeling satisfied, with combined moderate bulkiness and firm texture. CONSTITUTION: Polyester multifllaments <=20% in degree of crystallinity (Xρ), >=140% in residual elongation, <=3% in boiling water shrinkage, 45 70% in structural integrity parameter (ε0.2), <0% in the dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at 160 deg.C, and virtually presenting spontaneous extension, are arranged in parallel with one another or blended into composite yarns, which are then knitted and then subjected to caustic reduction to develop many lateral grooves extending rectangularly to the fiber axial direction on the relaxedly heat-treated yarn resulted from the above undrawn polyester filament yarn.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament yarn for knitting and woven fabrics and a mixed fiber, and particularly satisfies both a soft touch and a dry touch and has an appropriate bulkiness and a firm elasticity. In addition, the presence of a large number of fine grooves on the fiber surface due to the alkaline hydrolysis effect can improve the dark color effect due to the diffuse reflection of light, and can give a subtle touch to the fabric structure, such as blouses and suits. The present invention relates to a self-expanding polyester multifilament yarn having surface fine grooves suitable for use in women's clothing.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as an attempt to satisfy both a dry feeling and a soft feeling in a fabric structure, a partially fused type false twisted yarn or thick and thin yarn is mainly used for a polyester multifilament yarn. A number of approaches have been proposed from the above. However, although the partially fused false-twisted yarn has been considerably improved in manufacturing cost, it has a sharp taste due to the effect of the fusion of the fibers, and therefore the fused portion is reduced during the alkali reduction treatment. Selectively receives strong alkali hydrolysis action, which causes brittleness of fused parts, generation of cut fluff, etc., and woven and knitted fabrics using partially fused false-twisted yarn have poor drapability. There was a problem.

A thick and thin yarn having a cross-sectional area distribution in the fiber axis direction has a degree of orientation distribution in the fiber axis direction, and has an appropriate dry feeling and a high shrinkage ratio, which is considered to be an effect of an undrawn residual portion. It is characterized by having a moderate bulge due to the effect. However, due to alkali weight reduction treatment,
That is, the portion with a low birefringence is selectively strongly subjected to the alkaline hydrolysis action, which not only causes the quality deterioration of the outer appearance of the woven or knitted fabric due to single yarn cutting, fluffing, etc., but also the friction during the wearing of the woven or knitted fabric. As a result, the thick portion, which is relatively poor in strength, is cut into single yarns due to friction, which causes fluffing, pilling, and the like, and there remains a problem in terms of quality assurance of woven and knitted fabrics.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention eliminates the above-mentioned conventional drawbacks, the obtained yarn has good physical properties, and stable production is possible. The present invention relates to a self-expanding polyester multifilament yarn having a large number of surface fine grooves in a direction. More specifically, when it is processed into a fabric structure, it has both a soft and dry feel, yet has appropriate bulkiness and elasticity, and it has a large number of fine grooves on the fiber surface due to the alkali hydrolysis action. By making it exist, the effect of diffuse reflection of incident light can be further enhanced to give a deep touch to the fabric structure, and self-expansion with surface fine grooves suitable for women's clothing applications such as blouses and suits. It is an object of the present invention to provide a highly reactive polyester multifilament yarn.

[0005]

The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is obtained by subjecting a melt-spun polyester-based multifilament undrawn yarn to relaxation heat treatment to obtain a crystallinity (Χρ) of 20% or less and a residual elongation of 140%. As described above, when the boiling water shrinkage rate (SHW) is 3% or less and the dry heat shrinkage rate (SHD) at a dry heat of 160 ° C is less than 0%, it shows substantially self-expanding property, and the structural integrity parameter (ε0.2). It is a polyester-based multifilament having a content of 45 to 70%, and is made into a woven or knitted material, and then a large number of grooves extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis are formed by alkali weight reduction treatment with a weight loss rate of 10% or more.

The polyester-based multifilament unstretched yarn used in the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention comprises a polyester multifilament containing an aromatic dicarboxylic acid as a main acid component and an aliphatic glycol as a main glycol component, particularly polyethylene terephthalate and poly. Butylene terephthalate and the like are mainly used, but a part of terephthalic acid is used as a dicarboxylic acid such as isophthalic acid, 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid and naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, and an alicyclic dicarboxylic acid such as hexahydroterephthalic acid. Acid or an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as adipic acid or sebacic acid, and a polyester obtained by substituting a part of ethylene glycol with another glycol component such as trimethylene glycol or tetramethylene glycol. At best, it is not particularly add limited. In addition, the above polyester with titanium dioxide,
When fine powdered inert inorganic substances such as barium sulfate and kaolinite are included, fine unevenness can be generated on the fiber surface by alkali weight reduction processing, and due to the synergistic effect with the surface fine grooves, dark color effect and delicate dry touch. (Smoothness) can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric, which is suitable for use.

Further, the polyester-based multifilament undrawn yarn used for obtaining the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention can be produced by usual melt spinning, but the spinning take-up speed is from 2000 to 40.
Range of 00 m / min., More preferably 3000 to 3800
Must be in the range of m / min. Even if the multifilament unstretched yarn in the range of less than 2000 m / min. Is subjected to relaxation heat treatment, sufficient self-stretchability cannot be imparted, and as a result, the relaxation heat treatment yarn shrinks, which is an object of the present invention. It is impossible to give a soft touch to the woven or knitted fabric due to self-expansion. The take-up speed is 4000 m / min.
If it exceeds, the degree of crystal orientation of the yarn becomes too large, the degree of self-expansion due to crystal growth of molecules in the fiber axis direction is small, and a sufficient soft feeling cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric.

The single-filament fineness of the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited) 5
It may be appropriately adopted within the range of 10 to 10 denier. Further, since the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has many surface fine grooves, when it is used alone as a woven or knitted product, stress concentration occurs in the fine groove parts, resulting in poor tear strength of the woven or knitted product. Can't stand practical use. For this reason, when processing into an actual woven or knitted product, it is necessary to align or blend with other polyester-based multifilament drawn yarns to supplement the strength and elongation. The composite ratio of the drawn yarn and the yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but 40:60 to 70:30 is an appropriate range. The range of the total fineness after being aligned or mixed and made into a composite yarn is approximately 30 to 300 denier depending on the purpose and use in consideration of the use for women's clothing such as dresses, jackets and skirts. This is not a limitation. The multifilament drawn yarn to be further combined may be not only a drawn yarn but also a thick and thin yarn having a random shrinkage distribution in the fiber axis direction.

The single-thread cross-sectional shape of the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a round cross-section thread, a triangular cross-section thread, a flat cross-section thread, a polygon cross-section thread, or the like. May be. Although it may have a solid cross section or a hollow cross section, by forming a large number of fine grooves, the relaxation heat treated yarn of the polyester-based multifilament unstretched yarn is not a little fragile in strength, It may also cause thread breakage or fuzzing. Therefore, it is considered preferable to use a solid cross-section yarn rather than a hollow cross-section yarn.

The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has a crystallinity (Χρ) of 20% or less and a residual elongation of 140.
% Or more, boiling water shrinkage (SHW) is 3% or less, dry heat 160
The dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at 0 ° C is less than 0% and it has substantially self-expanding property.
) Is 45 to 70%, and the groove extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is formed by the alkali weight loss treatment after weaving and knitting with a weight loss rate of 10% or more. Further, the polyester multi-filament mixed fiber of the present invention is composed of a core portion and a loop, and the groove existing on the yarn surface of the loop portion is a V-shaped groove having an angle formed by the ridges of 45 ° or less. The maximum depth from the surface to the deepest part is 1.0 × D ^1/2 μm or more 5.0 × D
^1/2 μm or less, width of lateral groove on fiber surface is 1.5 × D
A polyester multifilament yarn having a width of ^½ μm or more and 4.2 × D ^1/2 μm or less, and having 10 to 30 lateral grooves in which the number of lateral grooves formed is 50 μm in the fiber axial direction. Here, D represents the single yarn fineness (Den.) After the weight reduction processing of the yarns forming the loop portion.

The above-mentioned physical property values are based on the following measuring methods. (A) Crystallinity (ρ) The density of the sample was measured in a thermostat at 20 ± 0.5 ° C by the density gradient tube method, and the crystallinity (ρ) was calculated by the following formula. For the density measurement by the density gradient tube method, n-pentane (specific gravity 0.683) known as a light specific gravity liquid and carbon tetrachloride (specific gravity 1.599) as a heavy specific gravity liquid are prepared and mixed, and then mixed. The solution was given a density gradient. The average value of 5 tests was used as the measured value. Χρ = [dk (d-da)] / [d (dk-da)] ×
100 (%) Χρ = crystallinity (%) dk = 1.47g / cm 3 (PET full density of the ^{crystal) da = 1.331g / cm 3 (} PET density of fully amorphous) d = density of sample (g / Cm ³ )

(B) Shrinkage rate of boiling water (SHW) The sample was set to 0.1 g / d using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m.
The initial load is applied, and the product is rewound at a speed of 120 times / minute, a small ridge with 20 turns is created, and a weight 40 times the initial load is applied to measure the ridge length L1 (mm). Subsequently, the weight is removed, and the pieces are immersed in boiling water (100 ° C.) for 30 minutes in such a manner that the contraction is not hindered, taken out, wiped off with a blotter paper or cotton cloth, and air-dried in a horizontal state. After air-drying, the weight is applied again and the length L2 (mm) is measured. The boiling water shrinkage (SHW) is measured by substituting the above L1 and L2 into the following formula. In addition, the average value of 5 times of the test is used as the measured value. SHW = (L1−L2) / L1 × 100 (%)

(C) Dry heat shrinkage (SHD) A load of 1/30 g / d is applied to the sample, and its length L3 (mm)
To measure. Then, the load is removed, and the sample is put in a dryer and dried at a dry heat of 160 ° C. for 30 minutes. After drying, it is cooled and a load of 1/30 g / d is applied again, and its length L4 (m
m) is measured. The dry heat shrinkage (SHD) is calculated by substituting the above L3 and L4 into the following equation. In addition, the average value of 5 times of the test is used as the measured value. SHW = (L3-L4) / L3 × 100 (%)

(D) Structural integrity parameter (ε 0.2) Using an ε meter manufactured by Bon Denki Co., Ltd., a yarn of 200 mm was measured with a sample length while applying a load of 2 g / d, and the load was applied. As it is, it is treated for 30 seconds in boiling water at a measuring temperature of 95 ° C., and its length L6 (mm) is measured. The structural parameter (ε 0.2) is shown by the following formula, and the average value of 5 times of measurement was taken as the measured value. .epsilon.0.2 = (L6-L5) /L5.times.100 (%) where L5 is the sample length (200 mm) before treatment.

(E) Residual elongation (DE) Tensilon UTM-3-100 type manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd. was used to perform a tensile test at a sample length of 200 mm and a tensile speed of 200 mm / min. Was obtained, and the average value of 5 tests was used as the measured value.

(F) Observation of fine grooves on the fiber surface Using a Hitachi S-501 scanning electron microscope, a magnification of 8
The surface of the woven or knitted fabric after being enlarged by 00 times and subjected to alkali reduction is observed, and the angle formed by the ridges of the groove, the maximum depth from the fiber surface to the deepest part, the width of the groove on the fiber surface and the yarn The number of grooves formed per unit length was determined. The average value of 20 measurements was used as the measurement value.

The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention must have a crystallinity (Χρ) of 20% or less, more preferably 15% or less. The yarn is obtained by subjecting a polyester multifilament unstretched yarn melt-spun at a spinning take-up speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min to a relaxation heat treatment. The multifilament unstretched yarn has a so-called highly oriented state. It is characterized in that the degree of crystallization is relatively low, but after the unstretched yarn is processed into a woven or knitted fabric by removing the shrinkage component without relaxation heat treatment to increase the crystallinity as much as possible. It is presumed that the rate of crystal growth in the crystal c-axis direction, that is, the fiber axis direction due to the moist heat treatment in the dyeing process becomes larger than the rate of the heat shrinkage rate of the yarn, and the fiber substantially shows self-expansion. To be done.

The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention must have a residual elongation of 140% or more. When the residual elongation is less than 140%, the residual elongation is not so much as that of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn obtained by melt spinning, and as a result, the yarn is not heat-treated at a relaxation rate sufficient to give self-extension. However, it is not possible to impart a soft touch to the woven or knitted fabric. The relaxation ratio of the unstretched yarn in the relaxation heat treatment depends on the take-up speed of the unstretched yarn, but is in the range of approximately 10 to 50% depending on the texture of the woven or knitted fabric and the operability during the relaxation heat treatment. It is necessary to adopt it appropriately. Furthermore, the heating body used for the relaxation heat treatment and the treatment speed are not particularly limited, but a non-contact type heating body such as a slit heater or a tube heater is used as the heating body, and the treatment speed is the residence time in the heating body. ) 05 to) 2 seconds is preferable.

The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has a boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of 3% or less, more preferably 2% or less. If the boiling water shrinkage ratio (SHW) exceeds 3%, the yarn will excessively shrink in the moist heat twist fixing and the sizing process following the twisted yarn, resulting in a moist heat process such as scouring and relaxing after processing into a woven or knitted fabric. As a result, the self-expansion that occurs is canceled out, and the woven or knitted fabric cannot have a sufficient soft feeling. The lower limit of the boiling water shrinkage rate of the relaxed heat treated yarn is not particularly limited, but in view of process stability, texture of the woven or knitted material, etc., it should be kept at -2% or more, preferably -1% or more. desirable. The boiling water shrinkage is -2%
If it is less than 1, it means that the self-stretching property is effectively expressed even in boiling water at 100 ° C., and the yarn length difference due to self-stretching is also expressed in the wet heat twist fixing using the vacuum heat setter and the sizing process. There is a possibility that it will become a yarn with a lot of loops and slack, which will hinder the processability of the next and subsequent processes such as the weaving and knitting process. Both the soft feeling and the swelling feeling due to the effect are not satisfactory, which is not preferable.

Further, the multifilament yarn is required to have a structural integrity parameter (ε0.2) of 45 to 70%. This structural integrity parameter comprehensively determines the crystallinity and orientation of the fiber. The polyester multifilament unstretched yarn obtained at a spinning take-up speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min. By ordinary melt spinning has a structural integrity parameter (ε 0.2) of about 20 to 40%.
However, by subjecting the undrawn yarn to the relaxation heat treatment as described above so as to be in the range of 45 to 70%, it is possible to impart self-stretchability to the relaxation heat treated yarn. Although this cannot be clearly explained, it is inferred that when the structural integrity parameter after relaxation heat treatment exceeds 70%,
The relaxed heat treated yarn becomes a so-called low orientation yarn, but reducing the orientation degree to that region means excessively increasing the relaxation rate, and the yarn flapping and the yarn during the relaxation heat treatment. The yarn may be cut due to the slack, which is not preferable. When the structural integrity parameter is less than 45%, the yarn has a high degree of crystallinity, and it is difficult to change the structure of the yarn by relaxation heat treatment, and the degree of self-expansion due to heat cannot be increased. .

The relaxation heat-treated yarn of the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is subjected to alkali weight reduction processing with a weight loss rate of 10% or more to form grooves extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction on the fiber surface. Is dependent on the characteristics of other polyester multifilament drawn yarns to be combined as a mixed yarn, etc., but when polyethylene terephthalate ordinary drawn yarn is assumed as the drawn yarn, it is generally a relaxation heat treated yarn of polyester-based multifilament undrawn yarn. However, it is necessary to control so that it does not become excessively brittle because it preferentially receives a strong alkaline hydrolysis action. For general clothing applications, the weight loss ratio of the mixed fiber may be appropriately selected in the range of about 10 to 30% in consideration of the texture and the physical properties of the woven or knitted fabric.

The groove extending in the direction perpendicular to the axial direction of the fiber formed by alkali reduction has a maximum depth from the fiber surface to the deepest part of 1.0 × D ^1/2 μm or more and 5.0 × D ^1/2 μ.
m or less, width of lateral groove on fiber surface is 1.5D ^1/2 μm
The feature is that the number of grooves is 4.2 × D ^1/2 μm or less and the number of grooves is 10 to 30 per 50 μm of the yarn length in the fiber axis direction. Here, D represents the single yarn fineness (Den.) After the weight reduction processing of the yarns forming the loop portion.

If the maximum depth exceeds 5.0 × D ^1/2 μm, the transverse grooves substantially reach a depth not less than the single yarn radius of the relaxed heat treated yarn of the polyester type multifilament undrawn yarn. However, there is a concern that single yarn breakage and fluff may occur due to extremely slight friction and pulling, and the appearance quality of the woven or knitted fabric may be impaired. Further, if the lower limit of the maximum depth of the lateral groove is less than 1.0 × D ^1/2 μm, a delicate dry touch and dark color feeling when finished into a woven or knitted fabric cannot be expressed, and 3.0 × D it is desirable to control the range of ^{1/2 ~4.5 × D 1/2 μm} . The lateral groove formation control needs to be carried out by specifying the weight reduction formula such as the concentration of the alkali solution, the weight reduction time, the weight reduction temperature, and the apparatus used for weight reduction processing. Generally, using a jet dyeing machine,
A method of treating a woven or knitted material while stirring an alkaline aqueous solution of potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide or the like is preferable because it can uniformly treat the entire area of the woven or knitted material.

The width of the lateral groove on the fiber surface is 1.5.
It is preferably a so-called V-shaped groove having a width of xD ^1/2 μm or more and 4.2 × D ^1/2 μm or less and a width that decreases toward the fiber inner layer. Width on the fiber surface 4.2 × D ^1/2 μ
When it exceeds m, the fine dry touch of the woven or knitted fabric due to the fine grooves is reduced, which is not preferable. Preferably 1.5 ×
It is preferable to control in the range of D ^{1/2 to} 3.5 × D ^1/2 μm. 1.5 × D ^{1 /} is less than ² effect diffused reflection of light is reduced undesirably. Also for the control, it is necessary to appropriately select and implement a weight-reducing formula such as a temperature-reducing temperature. Further, it is desired that the angle formed by the V-shape of the V-shaped groove is 45 ° or less. When the angle exceeds 45 °, the delicate dry feeling (dry feeling) of the woven or knitted fabric is reduced, and the single yarn is easily cut by slight friction or pulling, and the appearance quality of the woven or knitted fabric is improved. Considering the above, it is not a preferable range, and it is effective from the above point that the angle formed by the V-shape of the V-shaped groove is controlled to 45 ° or less, more preferably 30 ° or less.

Further, the number of lateral grooves formed is preferably 10 to 30 per 50 μm of yarn length. If the number of lateral grooves formed is less than 10 per 50 μm in yarn length, a delicate dry feeling (dry feeling) cannot be sufficiently imparted to the woven or knitted material, and the effect of improving the dark color feeling of the woven or knitted material is insufficient. On the contrary, when the number of lateral grooves formed is 30 or more per 50 μm of the yarn length, the dry feeling and the dark color feeling described above can be satisfied, but conversely, the tensile strength and the tensile elongation of the yarn are remarkably reduced, which is not practical. It does not become a thread that can withstand.

When the polyester multifilament unstretched yarn is subjected to the relaxation heat treatment, the non-contact heating system is adopted as described above, and the heating body residence time is 0.05 to 0.2 seconds, more preferably 0.09 to 230. It is desirable that the relaxation heat treatment is performed under an arbitrary set temperature condition in the range of ℃, more preferably in the range of 180 to 220 ℃, in order to impart self-stretchability to the relaxation heat treated yarn of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn.

Since the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention develops a large number of fine grooves on the fiber surface by the alkali weight reduction treatment, the polyester multifilament yarn is poor in tear strength as compared with a fabric woven or knitted using a general polyester multifilament ordinary drawn yarn, Even if a woven or knitted fabric is formed by itself, it cannot be put to practical use. Therefore, it is necessary to make a composite with other polyester multifilament yarns, generally polyester multifilament drawn yarns, so-called aligned or mixed fiber yarns, to supplement the strength and elongation. In the case of using a mixed fiber, a known interlace nozzle or the like, or a Taslan nozzle that forms a loop or slack by a disturbing air flow can be used. When using a Taslan nozzle or the like, there is a risk of unwinding of the package due to loops or slack, so it is advisable to apply an appropriate amount of coning oil for synthetic fiber processing yarn and wind the package. When using an interlace nozzle to mix fibers, the number of entangled fibers per 1 m of mixed fiber is 20 to
The presence of about 100 / m is preferable because it can reduce problems such as yarn cracks in the subsequent process.

The drawn yarn or the mixed yarn thus obtained is twisted, then subjected to low temperature twist setting or low temperature sizing, and then woven and knit to obtain a fabric structure, which is usually dyed. By heat treatment (110 ℃ ~ 200 ℃) such as processing, the relaxation heat treated yarn of polyester multi-filament unstretched yarn shows self-elongation, forming loop part of entangled mixed yarn and further by alkali weight reduction processing with a weight reduction rate of 10% or more. By forming fine grooves on the surface of the relaxed heat treated yarn, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a good swelling feeling, a soft feeling, and a delicate dry touch.

[0029]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples. Of course, the present invention is not limited to the following examples. L * in the examples is based on the following measuring method. (1) L * (whiteness) A color difference meter (MODEL TC manufactured by Tokyo Denshoku Co., Ltd.) according to JIS Z-8722 (object color measurement method)
-1500 MC-88), L * of the dyed cloth (woven fabric) was measured. The average value of 5 times of measurement was used as the measured value. (Example 1) Spinning take-off speed 3200 m / min. Polyester semi-dal round cross-section multi-filament highly oriented undrawn yarn 40 denier 24 with boiling water shrinkage of 65% spun in
Non-contact type slit heater with an ambient temperature of 200 ° C. relaxes the filament at a relaxation rate of 45% and a processing speed of 200 m / mi.
n. Then, the relaxation treatment was performed under the condition that the heater residence time was 0.18 seconds. The highly oriented undrawn yarn after the relaxation heat treatment has a crystallinity (X
ρ) 14.76%, residual elongation 213%, structural integrity parameter (ε 0.2) 61.1%, boiling water shrinkage (SHW)
Is -0.9%, and dry heat shrinkage (SH at 160 ° C dry heat)
It was confirmed that D) showed substantially self-elongation at -6.3%.

The unstretched polyester multifilament yarn after the relaxation heat treatment has a boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of 16%, and a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at a dry heat of 160 ° C. of 18.5%.
Polyester semi-dal round cross-section multifilament normal drawn yarn of 50 denier 10 filaments was air-entangled by a high pressure air flow at room temperature using a known interlace nozzle to obtain a polyester multifilament composite yarn. The number of interlaced yarns per 1 m of the composite yarn is 72
The number of yarns per square meter was no, and the yarn was free from cracks and had excellent handleability.

A double twister (No. 310-C) manufactured by Murata Kikai Co., Ltd. is used as the polyester multifilament composite yarn, and a twisted yarn twisted at 300 T / m in the S twist direction is used as a warp and a polyester multifilament semi-dal as a weft. Round cross section Ordinary drawn yarn 150 denier 96 filaments of 1800 T / m are twisted in the S twist and Z twist directions, and a weft yarn is obtained by using a vacuum heat setter and an untwisting set for 40 minutes at an ambient temperature of 85 ° C. The production density is 1 so that the S twist yarn and the Z twist yarn are alternately arranged.
Weaved into a plain weave of 62 pieces / inch and weft 70 pieces / inch. After scouring and relaxing, the weight loss rate was 29% using a jet dyeing machine. Subsequently, it was dyed in a deep black (formal black) using a jet dyeing machine and subjected to a usual final set to obtain a dyed cloth having a finish density of 186 warp / inch, weft 83 piece / inch.

When the surface of the dyed cloth was observed with a scanning electron microscope at a magnification of 800, the relaxation heat treated yarn of the polyester multifilament unstretched yarn formed a large number of transverse grooves extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis. It was confirmed that The maximum depth of the lateral groove is visually about 5μ.
m, the width of the lateral groove on the fiber surface is visually about 4 μm on average,
The number of forming the lateral grooves was 25 per 50 μm of the yarn length on average, and the angle formed by the V-shaped lateral grooves was about 30 ° on average. The dyed fabric had an L * of 13.6, which was a deep color tone that could be sufficiently used for women's black formal clothing. Regarding the texture, there is no fluffy feeling, moderate swelling, delicate dry touch, soft touch, moderate beam, waist, women's dress,
Finished with a completely new texture, suitable for blouses, jackets and skirts.

(Comparative Example 1) The spinning take-up speed was 3200 m /
min. Polyester semi-dal round cross-section multi-filament highly oriented undrawn yarn 4 with boiling water shrinkage of 65% spun in
Using 0 denier 24 filament contact type heater with surface temperature 170 ℃, relaxation rate 0%, processing speed 200m
/ Min. A constant length heat treatment was performed under the condition that the heater residence time was 0.09 seconds. The highly oriented undrawn yarn after the constant length heat treatment has a crystallinity (Xρ) of 42.25%, a residual elongation of 113%, a structural integrity parameter (ε 0.2) of -0.44%, and a boiling water shrinkage (SHW). ) Was 1.7%, and the dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at a dry heat of 160 ° C. was 2.3%. A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the highly oriented undrawn yarn after the constant length heat treatment was used. The dyed fabric had an L * of 17.5, which was inferior to the dyed fabric of Example 1 in the deep color tone. Regarding the texture, the waist was moderate and the swelling and softness were insufficient. The surface was observed using a scanning electron microscope in the same manner as in Example 1, but no fine grooves were formed, a subtle dryness was not felt, and the fabric was far from the new texture.

(Comparative Example 2) The spinning take-up speed was 3000 m /
Polyester bright triangular cross-section multi-filament highly oriented undrawn yarn 3 with boiling water shrinkage of 72% spun at 3 min
Using a drawing machine, 18 filaments of 5 denier were drawn into a polyester multifilament drawn yarn of 18 filaments of 20 denier under the conditions of a draw ratio of 1.671 and a drawing temperature of 80 ° C. The yarn was subjected to a non-contact slit heater with an ambient temperature of 200 ° C. with a relaxation rate of 45% and a processing speed of 540 m /
Relaxation heat treatment was performed under the conditions of min and heater residence time of 0.07 seconds. The yarn after the relaxation heat treatment has a crystallinity of 19.34%,
Residual elongation 80%, structural integrity parameter (ε0.2) is 2
6.14%, boiling water shrinkage (SHW) =-0.8%, and dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at dry heat of 160 [deg.] C. was -5.4%, showing substantially self-elongation. A dyed cloth was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the above yarn was used. The dyed fabric had an L * of 17.8, which was inferior to the dyed fabric of Example 1 in the deep color tone. Regarding the texture, due to the effect of self-expansion, it had moderate bulkiness and softness, but dry touch was insufficient. The surface was observed using a scanning electron microscope, but no fine grooves were formed and no subtle smoothness was felt.

[0035]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION By using the self-expanding polyester multifilament yarn having surface microgrooves of the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric has a soft feel and a dry feel, an appropriate bulkiness, and a firmness and elasticity, and yet It becomes possible to give a subtle smoothness and deeper color tone by the effect of the fine grooves on the surface. By using this yarn, it is possible to provide a female clothing material having a completely new texture.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged perspective view of a self-expanding polyester multifilament yarn having surface microgrooves according to the present invention after alkali weight reduction treatment.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: Self-expanding polyester filament, 2: Groove

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Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A dry heat shrinkage ratio (S) at a crystallinity (Χρ) of 20% or less, a residual elongation of 140% or more and a dry heat of 160 ° C.
HD) is less than 0% and the structural integrity parameter (ε0.
2) is a polyester-based multifilament of 45 to 70%, and contains at least a part of filament yarns that form a large number of grooves extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis by alkali weight reduction treatment with a weight loss rate of 10% or more. A polyester multifilament yarn characterized by. 2. Boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of filament yarn
Is 3% or less, the polyester multifilament yarn according to claim 1. 3. In the entangled mixed filament yarn composed of a core portion and a loop portion, the yarn forming the loop portion has a maximum depth from the fiber surface to the deepest portion of 1.0 × D ^1/2 μm or more. 0xD
^1/2 or less, the width of the groove on the fiber surface is 1.5 × D ^1/2 μ
A polyester multifilament mixed filament yarn characterized by having m to 4.2 × D ^1/2 μm or less and having 10 to 30 transverse grooves in which the number of grooves formed is 50 μm in the fiber axial direction. Here, D represents the single yarn fineness (Den.) After the weight reduction processing of the yarns forming the loop portion. 4. The polyester multifilament mixed fiber according to claim 3, wherein the width of the groove extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is a so-called V-shaped groove, which decreases from the fiber surface toward the fiber inner layer. yarn. 5. The polyester multifilament mixed fiber according to claim 4, wherein an angle formed by a V-shaped groove extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is 45 ° or less.