JP2700022B2 - Polyester multifilament yarn - Google Patents

Polyester multifilament yarn

Info

Publication number
JP2700022B2
JP2700022B2 JP6192544A JP19254494A JP2700022B2 JP 2700022 B2 JP2700022 B2 JP 2700022B2 JP 6192544 A JP6192544 A JP 6192544A JP 19254494 A JP19254494 A JP 19254494A JP 2700022 B2 JP2700022 B2 JP 2700022B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
polyester multifilament
polyester
woven
multifilament
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Fee Related
Application number
JP6192544A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPH0860471A (en
Inventor
右広 西田
佳久 段本
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toyobo Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toyobo Co Ltd filed Critical Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority to JP6192544A priority Critical patent/JP2700022B2/en
Publication of JPH0860471A publication Critical patent/JPH0860471A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP2700022B2 publication Critical patent/JP2700022B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

Links

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、編織物用ポリエステル
マルチフィラメント糸条及び混繊糸に関し、特にソフト
な触感とドライな触感を共に満足し尚且つ適度な嵩高性
とはり腰を兼備し、またアルカリ加水分解作用により繊
維表面に微細溝を多数存在させることにより光の乱反射
の効果による濃色感の向上を狙える他、微妙なタッチを
布帛構造物に与えることが出来る、ブラウスやスーツ地
など婦人衣料用途に好適な表面微細溝を有する自己伸長
性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸条に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to polyester multifilament yarns and knitted yarns for knitted and woven fabrics, and more particularly, to both soft touch and dry touch while satisfying both bulkiness and beaminess. In addition to the effect of the irregular reflection of light, the presence of a large number of fine grooves on the fiber surface due to the action of alkali hydrolysis can be used to improve the dark color appearance, and can also give a subtle touch to fabric structures, such as blouses and suit fabrics The present invention relates to a self-extensible polyester multifilament yarn having fine surface grooves suitable for use in women's clothing.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】従来より布帛構造物にドライ感とソフト
感を共に満足させる為の試みとして、主にポリエステル
マルチフィラメント糸を用いてなるものに部分融着型仮
撚加工糸やシックアンドシン糸等からのアプローチが多
数提案されてきている。しかしながら、部分融着型仮撚
加工糸は製造コスト的にはかなり改善されてはきている
ものの、繊維の融着の効果によってシャリ味を付与して
いるためにアルカリ減量処理時に融着部が選択的にアル
カリ加水分解作用を強く受け、融着部が脆化、切断毛羽
の発生等を引き起こしてしまう他、部分融着型仮撚加工
糸を使用した織編物はドレープ性に乏しくなる等々の問
題があった。
2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as an attempt to satisfy both a dry feeling and a soft feeling to a fabric structure, a partially fused type false twisted yarn or a thick and thin yarn is mainly used for a polyester structure using polyester multifilament yarn. Many approaches have been proposed. However, although the partially fused type false twisted yarn has been considerably improved in terms of production cost, the fused portion is given a sharp taste by the effect of fiber fusion, so that the fused portion is reduced at the time of alkali weight reduction treatment. In addition to strongly receiving the alkali hydrolysis action selectively, the welded portion becomes brittle, causing cut fuzz, etc. In addition, the woven or knitted fabric using the partially fused type false twisted yarn becomes poor in drape property etc. There was a problem.

【0003】また繊維軸方向に断面積分布を有するシッ
クアンドシン糸は繊維軸方向に配向度分布を有しており
未延伸残存部の効果と考えられている適度なドライ感と
高収縮率の効果による適度なふくらみを持つことが特徴
である。しかしながらアルカリ減量処理によって太部、
即ち複屈折率の低い部分が選択的にアルカリ加水分解作
用を強く受けてしまい、単糸切断、毛羽発生等により織
編物の外観品位を著しく損ねる原因となるばかりか、織
編物の着用時の摩擦等により比較的強度に乏しい該太部
が摩擦によって単糸切断し、毛羽発生やピリング等の原
因となり、織編物の品質保証面に関しても問題が残って
いた。
Thick and thin yarns having a cross-sectional area distribution in the fiber axis direction have an orientation distribution in the fiber axis direction, and have an appropriate dry feeling and a high shrinkage rate which are considered to be the effects of the undrawn residual portion. It is characterized by having a moderate swelling due to the effect. However, thick part by alkali weight reduction treatment,
That is, the portion having a low birefringence is selectively strongly affected by the alkali hydrolysis action, which not only causes the appearance quality of the woven or knitted fabric to be significantly impaired due to cutting of single yarn, generation of fluff, etc. As a result, the thick portion having relatively poor strength is cut by a single thread due to friction, causing fluffing or pilling, and there is still a problem in terms of quality assurance of the woven or knitted fabric.

【0004】[0004]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は上記のような
従来の欠点を解消し、得られる糸条の物性が良好で、且
つ安定した生産が可能となり、アルカリ減量処理によっ
て繊維軸に対し直角方向に多数の表面微細溝を有するこ
とを特徴とする自己伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメ
ント糸に関する。更に詳しくには布帛構造物に加工した
際、ソフトな触感とドライな触感を共に満足し、尚且つ
適度な嵩高性とはり腰を兼備し、またアルカリ加水分解
作用により繊維表面に微細溝を多数存在させることによ
り入射光の乱反射の効果による更なる濃色感の向上、微
妙なタッチを布帛構造物に与えることが出来、ブラウス
やスーツ地など婦人衣料用途に好適な表面微細溝を有す
る自己伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を提供
することを課題とするものである。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, and makes it possible to obtain a yarn with good physical properties and stable production. The present invention relates to a self-extensible polyester multifilament yarn having a large number of surface microgrooves in directions. More specifically, when processed into a fabric structure, it satisfies both soft touch and dry feel, combines moderate bulkiness and beam strength, and has many fine grooves on the fiber surface due to alkali hydrolysis action. By making it present, the effect of diffuse reflection of incident light can be further improved to give a deep color impression, a subtle touch can be given to the fabric structure, and a self-elongation having a fine surface groove suitable for women's clothing applications such as blouses and suit fabrics It is an object of the present invention to provide a functional polyester multifilament yarn.

【0005】[0005]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明のポリエステルマ
ルチフィラメント糸条は溶融紡糸されたポリエステル系
マルチフィラメント未延伸糸を弛緩熱処理し、結晶化度
(Χρ)が20%以下、残留伸度140%以上、沸水収
縮率(SHW)が3%以下、乾熱160℃に於ける乾熱
収縮率(SHD)が0%未満で実質的に自己伸長性を示
し、構造一体性パラメータ(ε0.2 )が45〜70%で
あるポリエステル系マルチフィラメントであり織編物に
した後、減量率10%以上のアルカリ減量処理によって
繊維軸に対し直角方向にのびる溝を多数形成するもので
ある。
The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is obtained by subjecting a melt-spun polyester multifilament undrawn yarn to a relaxation heat treatment so that the crystallinity (度 ρ) is 20% or less and the residual elongation is 140%. As described above, when the boiling water shrinkage (SHW) is 3% or less and the dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at 160 ° C. of dry heat is less than 0%, the resin exhibits substantially self-extensibility, and the structural integrity parameter (ε0.2) Is a polyester-based multifilament of 45 to 70%, and after forming a woven or knitted fabric, a large number of grooves extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis are formed by alkali weight reduction treatment with a weight loss rate of 10% or more.

【0006】本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント
糸条に使用するポリエステル系マルチフィラメント未延
伸糸は芳香族ジカルボン酸を主たる酸成分とし、脂肪族
グリコールを主たるグリコール成分とするポリエステル
マルチフィラメント、特にポリエチレンテレフタレー
ト、ポリブチレンテレフタレート等をその主たる対象と
するものであるが、テレフタル酸の一部を例えばイソフ
タル酸、5−ナトリウムスルフォイソフタル酸、ナフタ
レンジカルボン酸の如きジカルボン酸やヘキサヒドロテ
レフタル酸の如き脂環族ジカルボン酸、又はアジピン
酸、セバシン酸の如き脂肪族ジカルボン酸で、更にエチ
レングリコールの一部をトリメチレングリコールやテト
ラメチレングリコールの如き他のグリコール成分で置換
したポリエステルであってもよく、特に限定を加えるも
のではない。また、上記ポリエステルに二酸化チタン、
硫酸バリウム、カオリナイト等の微粉末不活性無機物を
含有させると、アルカリ減量加工によって繊維表面に微
細凹凸を生成させることが出来、表面微細溝との相乗効
果によって、濃色効果及び微妙なドライタッチ(さらさ
ら感)を織編物に付与することが可能になり使用するに
適している。
The polyester-based multifilament undrawn yarn used for the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is a polyester multifilament containing an aromatic dicarboxylic acid as a main acid component and an aliphatic glycol as a main glycol component, particularly polyethylene terephthalate and poly (polyethylene). The main object is butylene terephthalate and the like, and a part of terephthalic acid is alicyclic dicarboxylic acid such as dicarboxylic acid such as isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and hexahydroterephthalic acid. Acid or aliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as adipic acid and sebacic acid, and polyesters in which part of ethylene glycol is substituted with another glycol component such as trimethylene glycol or tetramethylene glycol. At best, it is not particularly add limited. Moreover, titanium dioxide,
When fine powder inert inorganic substances such as barium sulfate and kaolinite are contained, fine irregularities can be generated on the fiber surface by alkali weight reduction processing, and due to the synergistic effect with the surface fine grooves, dark color effect and delicate dry touch (Smoothness) can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric, which is suitable for use.

【0007】更に本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメ
ント糸条を得るにあたり使用するポリエステル系マルチ
フィラメント未延伸糸は通常の溶融紡糸によって製造す
ることが出来るが、紡糸引取速度として2000〜40
00m/min.の範囲、より好ましくは3000〜3800
m/min.の範囲である必要がある。2000m/min.未満の
範囲の該マルチフィラメント未延伸糸を弛緩熱処理して
も充分に自己伸長性を付与することが出来ず、結果とし
て該弛緩熱処理糸条は収縮してしまい、本発明の意図す
る自己伸長からくるソフトなタッチを織編物に付与する
ことが出来ない。また、紡糸引取速度が4000m/min.
を超過すると糸条の結晶配向度が大きくなり過ぎ、分子
が繊維軸方向に結晶成長することによる自己伸長の度合
が小さく、充分なソフト感を織編物に付与することがで
きなくなる。
The polyester multifilament undrawn yarn used for obtaining the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention can be produced by ordinary melt spinning, but has a spinning take-off speed of 2000 to 40.
00m / min., More preferably 3000-3800
m / min. Even when the multifilament undrawn yarn in the range of less than 2000 m / min. Is subjected to relaxation heat treatment, it is not possible to impart sufficient self-extensibility, and as a result, the relaxed heat treated yarn shrinks, and the purpose of the present invention is It is not possible to impart a soft touch to the woven or knitted fabric resulting from the self-elongation. The spinning take-off speed is 4000m / min.
If the number exceeds 3, the degree of crystal orientation of the yarn becomes too large, the degree of self-elongation due to the crystal growth of the molecule in the fiber axis direction is small, and it is impossible to impart a sufficient soft feeling to the woven or knitted fabric.

【0008】本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント
糸条の単糸繊度は特に限定を加えるものではないが0.
5〜10デニールの範囲で適宜採用すればよい。また、
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸条は表面微
細溝を多数有するために織編物として単独で使用すると
該微細溝部分にて応力集中が生じその結果、該織編物の
引裂強力が乏しくなってしまい実用に耐えられない。こ
のために実際の織編物に加工する際には他のポリエステ
ル系マルチフィラメント延伸糸との引揃え或いは混繊糸
とし、強度及び伸度を補ってやる必要がある。該延伸糸
と本発明糸との複合割合は特に限定を加えるものではな
いが40:60〜70:30が適当な範囲である。また
引揃え或いは混繊し、複合糸とした後の総繊度の範囲と
してはドレス、ジャケット、スカート等の婦人用衣料用
途を考えると大略30〜300デニールの範囲でその目
的、用途に応じ適宜選択すればよく、これも何ら限定を
加えるものではない。更に組み合わせる該マルチフィラ
メント延伸糸は通常延伸糸のみならず繊維軸方向にラン
ダムな収縮率分布を有するシックアンドシン糸であって
もよい。
[0008] The fineness of single yarn of the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is not limited to 0.1.
What is necessary is just to employ | adopt suitably in the range of 5-10 denier. Also,
Since the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has a large number of surface microgrooves, when used alone as a woven or knitted fabric, stress concentration occurs at the microgroove portions, resulting in poor tear strength of the woven or knitted fabric and practical use. Intolerable. For this reason, when processing into an actual woven or knitted fabric, it is necessary to compensate for the strength and elongation by drawing or blending with another polyester-based multifilament drawn yarn or using a mixed fiber yarn. The composite ratio of the drawn yarn and the yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but an appropriate range is 40:60 to 70:30. In addition, the range of the total fineness after drawing or blending and forming a composite yarn is appropriately selected according to the purpose and application in a range of approximately 30 to 300 deniers when considering the use of women's clothing such as dresses, jackets, skirts and the like. This is not a limitation. Further, the multifilament drawn yarn to be combined may be not only a drawn yarn but also a thick and thin yarn having a random shrinkage distribution in the fiber axis direction.

【0009】また、本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラ
メント糸条の単糸断面形状に関しても特に限定を加える
ものではなく、丸断面糸や三角断面糸の他、偏平断面
糸、多角断面糸等の構成であってもよい。また中実断
面、中空断面の何れであってもよいが、多数の微細溝を
形成することにより、該ポリエステル系マルチフィラメ
ント未延伸糸の弛緩熱処理糸が少なからず強度的に脆化
するために単糸切れ、毛羽立ちを引き起こしてしまう恐
れもある。それ故に中空断面糸よりも中実断面糸とした
方がより好ましいと考える。
The single cross-sectional shape of the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a flat cross-section yarn, a polygon cross-section yarn, or the like, in addition to a round cross-section yarn or a triangular cross-section yarn. You may. Any of a solid cross section and a hollow cross section may be used. However, since a large number of fine grooves are formed, the relaxed heat-treated yarn of the polyester-based multifilament undrawn yarn becomes brittle in a considerable amount of strength. There is also a risk of causing thread breakage and fluffing. Therefore, it is considered that it is more preferable to use a solid-section yarn than a hollow-section yarn.

【0010】本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント
糸条は結晶化度(Χρ)が20%以下、残留伸度140
%以上、沸水収縮率(SHW)が3%以下、乾熱160
℃に於ける乾熱収縮率(SHD)が0%未満であり実質
的に自己伸長性を有し、構造一体性パラメータ(ε0.2
)が45〜70%であり、織編後の減量率10%以上
のアルカリ減量処理によって繊維軸に対し直角方向にの
びる溝を形成するものである。
The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has a crystallinity (Χρ) of 20% or less and a residual elongation of 140%.
%, Boiling water shrinkage (SHW) is 3% or less, dry heat 160
The dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at 0 ° C. is less than 0%, has substantially self-extensibility, and has a structural integrity parameter (ε0.2
) Is 45 to 70%, and a groove extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is formed by alkali weight reduction treatment at a weight loss rate of 10% or more after weaving.

【0011】ここで上記の物性値は以下の測定方法によ
るものである。 (a) 結晶化度(Χρ) 密度勾配管法により20±0.5℃の恒温槽内で試料の
密度を測定し、下記式により結晶化度(Χρ)を算出し
た。尚、密度勾配管法による密度測定には軽比重液とし
て公知のn−ペンタン(比重0.683)と、重比重液
として四塩化炭素(比重1.599)とを調製、混合
し、該混合液に密度勾配をもたせた。尚、試験回数5回
の平均値を測定値とした。 Χρ=〔dk(d−da)〕/〔d(dk−da)〕×100(%) Χρ=結晶化度(%) dk=1.47g/cm3 (PET完全結晶の密度) da=1.331g/cm3 (PET完全非晶の密度) d=試料の密度(g/cm3
Here, the above physical properties are measured by the following measuring methods. (A) Crystallinity (Χρ) The density of the sample was measured in a thermostat at 20 ± 0.5 ° C. by a density gradient tube method, and the crystallinity (Χρ) was calculated by the following equation. For the density measurement by the density gradient tube method, n-pentane (specific gravity: 0.683) known as a light specific gravity liquid and carbon tetrachloride (specific gravity: 1.599) as a specific gravity liquid are prepared, mixed, and mixed. The liquid was given a density gradient. In addition, the average value of the number of times of the test 5 times was set as the measured value. Χρ = [dk (d-da)] / [d (dk-da)] × 100 (%) Χρ = crystallinity (%) dk = 1.47 g / cm 3 (density of PET perfect crystal) da = 1 .331g / cm 3 (PET density of fully amorphous) d = density of sample (g / cm 3)

【0012】(b) 沸水収縮率(SHW) 試料を枠周1.125mの検尺機を用い、0.1g/d
の初荷重を掛け、120回/分の速度で巻き返し、巻き
回数が20回の小綛を作り、初荷重の40倍の重りを掛
けて、綛長L1 (mm)を測定する。続いて重りを外し、収
縮が妨げられないような方法で沸騰水(100℃)中に
30分間浸漬した後、取り出して吸取紙又は綿布で水を
拭き取り、水平状態にて風乾する。風乾後、再度重りを
掛けて綛長L2 (mm)を測定する。上記L1 、L2 を下記
式に代入し、沸水収縮率(SHW)を測定する。尚、試
験回数5回の平均値を測定値とする。 SHW=(L1 −L2 )/L1 ×100(%)
(B) Shrinkage of boiling water (SHW) A sample was measured at 0.1 g / d using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m.
The initial load is applied, and the skein is wound back at a rate of 120 times / min to produce a small skein with 20 turns. The skein length L1 (mm) is measured by applying a weight 40 times the initial load. Subsequently, the weight is removed, and the body is immersed in boiling water (100 ° C.) for 30 minutes in such a manner that shrinkage is not hindered, taken out, wiped off with a blotter or a cotton cloth, and air-dried in a horizontal state. After air-drying, the weight is applied again and the skein length L2 (mm) is measured. The above L1 and L2 are substituted into the following equation, and the boiling water shrinkage (SHW) is measured. In addition, the average value of 5 times of the test is defined as the measured value. SHW = (L1−L2) / L1 × 100 (%)

【0013】(c) 乾熱収縮率(SHD) 試料に1/30g/dの荷重を掛け、その長さL3 (mm)
を測定する。次いでその荷重を取り除き、試料を乾燥機
に入れ乾熱160℃で30分間乾燥する。乾燥後冷却
し、再度1/30g/dの荷重を掛けてその長さL4 (m
m)を測定する。上記L3 、L4 を下記式に代入し、乾熱
収縮率(SHD)を算出する。尚、試験回数5回の平均
値を測定値とする。 SHW=(L3−L4)/L3 ×100(%)
(C) Dry heat shrinkage (SHD) A load of 1/30 g / d was applied to the sample, and its length L3 (mm)
Is measured. Next, the load is removed, and the sample is placed in a dryer and dried at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes. After drying, it is cooled, and a load of 1/30 g / d is applied again to apply its length L4 (m
m) is measured. The dry heat shrinkage (SHD) is calculated by substituting the above L3 and L4 into the following equation. In addition, the average value of 5 times of the test is defined as the measured value. SHW = (L3−L4) / L3 × 100 (%)

【0014】(d) 構造一体性パラメータ(ε0.2 ) ボン電気社製εメーターを使用し、0.2g/dの荷重
を掛けつつ試料長で200mmの糸条を測り取り、その荷
重を掛けたまま、測定温度95℃の沸騰水中で30秒間
処理を行い、その長さL6 (mm)を測定する。構造パラメ
ータ(ε0.2 )は下記式で示され、測定回数5回の平均
値を以てその測定値とした。 ε0.2 =(L6 −L5 )/L5 ×100(%) 但し、L5 は処理前の試料長さ(200mm)である。
(D) Structural integrity parameter (ε0.2) Using a ε-meter manufactured by Bonn Electric Co., a sample length of 200 mm was measured while applying a load of 0.2 g / d, and the load was applied. While keeping the temperature, the treatment is performed in boiling water at a measurement temperature of 95 ° C. for 30 seconds, and the length L6 (mm) is measured. The structural parameter (ε0.2) is represented by the following formula, and the measured value is determined by averaging the five measurements. ε0.2 = (L6−L5) / L5 × 100 (%) where L5 is the sample length (200 mm) before the treatment.

【0015】(e) 残留伸度(DE) オリエンテック社製テンシロンUTM−3−100型を
使用し、試料長200mm、引張速度200mm/分で引張
試験を実施、試料切断に至る迄の伸度を求め、試験回数
5回の平均値を以てその測定値とした。
(E) Residual elongation (DE) Using a Tensilon UTM-3-100 manufactured by Orientec, a tensile test was conducted at a sample length of 200 mm and a tensile speed of 200 mm / min, and the elongation until cutting the sample was performed. Was determined, and the measured value was taken as the average value of the five tests.

【0016】(f) 繊維表面微細溝観察 日立製作所製S−501型走査電子顕微鏡を用い倍率8
00倍に拡大し、アルカリ減量加工後の織編物の表面を
観察し、該溝の稜面のなす角度、繊維表面から最深部迄
の最大深さ、繊維表面に於ける溝の幅及び糸条単位長さ
当たりの溝形成数を求めた。20ケ所の測定平均値を以
てその測定値とした。
(F) Observation of fine grooves on fiber surface Using a S-501 type scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd., magnification 8
After observing the surface of the woven or knitted fabric after alkali reduction processing, the angle formed by the ridge of the groove, the maximum depth from the fiber surface to the deepest part, the width of the groove on the fiber surface, and the yarn The number of grooves formed per unit length was determined. The measured value was determined based on the average value of the measured values at 20 places.

【0017】本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント
糸条は結晶化度(Χρ)が20%以下、より好ましくは
15%以下であることが必要である。該糸条は紡糸引取
速度が2000〜4000m/min.で溶融紡糸したポリエ
ステルマルチフィラメント未延伸糸を弛緩熱処理するこ
とによって得られるが該マルチフィラメント未延伸糸は
いわゆる高配向状態をもった未延伸糸であり、結晶化の
程度が比較的低いことがその特徴であるが、該未延伸糸
を弛緩熱処理し結晶化度を極力増加させることなく、収
縮成分を取り除くことによって織編物に加工した後の染
色加工に於ける湿熱処理による結晶c軸方向、即ち繊維
軸方向への結晶成長の割合が糸条の熱収縮率の割合に対
して大きくなり、実質的に繊維は自己伸長を示すものと
推定される。
The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention must have a crystallinity (度 ρ) of 20% or less, more preferably 15% or less. The yarn is obtained by relaxing and heat-treating a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn melt-spun at a spinning take-off speed of 2,000 to 4,000 m / min. The multifilament undrawn yarn has a so-called high orientation state. The feature is that the degree of crystallization is relatively low, but after processing the undrawn yarn into a woven or knitted fabric by relaxing heat treatment and removing the shrinkage component without increasing the crystallinity as much as possible. It is presumed that the rate of crystal growth in the crystal c-axis direction, that is, in the fiber axis direction, due to wet heat treatment in the dyeing process is larger than the rate of thermal shrinkage of the yarn, and that the fiber substantially exhibits self-elongation. Is done.

【0018】また本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメ
ント糸条は残留伸度として140%以上であることが必
要である。残留伸度が140%未満では溶融紡糸によっ
て得られたポリエステルマルチフィラメント未延伸糸の
残留伸度とさほどかわらず、結果として糸条に自己伸長
性を与えるに充分な弛緩率で熱処理されておらず、織編
物にソフトな触感を充分に付与することが出来ない。該
未延伸糸の弛緩熱処理に於ける弛緩率に関しては、該未
延伸糸の紡糸引取速度にも因るが概略10〜50%の範
囲で織編物の風合いや弛緩熱処理時の操業性等に応じ適
宜採用する必要がある。更に弛緩熱処理に使用する加熱
体、処理速度に関しても特に限定を加えるものではない
が、加熱体としてはスリットヒーターやチューブヒータ
ー等の非接触式加熱体を使用し、処理速度は加熱体内滞
留時間として0.05〜0.2秒間とすることが好適で
ある。
The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention must have a residual elongation of 140% or more. When the residual elongation is less than 140%, the residual elongation of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn obtained by melt spinning is not so large, and as a result, the yarn is not heat-treated at a relaxation rate sufficient to give self-extensibility to the yarn. In addition, a soft touch cannot be sufficiently imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. The relaxation rate of the undrawn yarn in the relaxation heat treatment depends on the texture of the woven or knitted fabric and the operability at the time of the relaxation heat treatment, although it depends on the spinning take-off speed of the undrawn yarn. It must be adopted as appropriate. Further, there is no particular limitation on the heating body used for the relaxation heat treatment and the processing speed, but a non-contact heating body such as a slit heater or a tube heater is used as the heating body, and the processing speed is determined as a residence time in the heating body. It is preferable to set it for 0.05 to 0.2 seconds.

【0019】本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント
糸条は沸水収縮率(SHW)が3%以下、より好ましく
は2%以下である。この沸水収縮率(SHW)が3%を
超過すると、撚糸に続く湿熱撚固定やサイジング工程等
で糸条が過度に収縮してしまい、織編物に加工した後の
精練やリラックス等の湿熱工程にて発現する自己伸長が
事実上相殺され、織編物に充分なソフト感を与えること
が出来ない。該弛緩熱処理糸の沸水収縮率の下限値は特
に限定を加えるものではないが、工程安定性や織編物の
風合い等を考慮すると−2%以上、好ましくは−1%以
上に留めておくことが望ましい。該沸水収縮率が−2%
未満となれば、事実上100℃の沸騰水中にても自己伸
長性が発現することを意味し、バキュームヒートセッタ
ーを使用した湿熱撚固定やサイジング工程にても自己伸
長による糸長差を発現する恐れがあり、ループや弛みの
多い糸条となってしまい製織編工程など次工程以降の工
程通過性に支障を来すことが予想される他、織編物に加
工した後の自己伸長性発現の効果によるソフト感、ふく
らみ感が共に満足なものとはならず、好ましくないので
ある。
The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has a boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of 3% or less, more preferably 2% or less. If the boiling water shrinkage (SHW) exceeds 3%, the yarn is excessively shrunk in the wet-heat twist fixing and sizing steps following the twisting, and the wet-heat process such as scouring and relaxing after processing into a woven or knitted fabric. The self-elongation that appears is actually canceled out, and the woven or knitted fabric cannot be given a sufficiently soft feeling. The lower limit of the boiling water shrinkage of the relaxed heat-treated yarn is not particularly limited, but may be kept at -2% or more, preferably -1% or more in consideration of the process stability and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric. desirable. The boiling water shrinkage is -2%
If it is less than that, it means that self-extensibility is manifested even in boiling water at 100 ° C., and the yarn length difference due to self-extension is exhibited even in wet heat twist fixing and sizing process using a vacuum heat setter. There is a possibility that it will be a thread with lots of loops and slacks, and it is expected that the weaving and knitting process will not be able to pass through the following processes, and that self-extensibility after processing into a woven or knitted fabric will be exhibited. Both the soft feeling and the swelling feeling due to the effect are not satisfactory, which is not preferable.

【0020】更に該マルチフィラメント糸条は構造一体
性パラメータ(ε0.2)が45〜70%であることが要
求される。この構造一体性パラメータは繊維の結晶化度
と配向度を総合的に決定するものである。通常の溶融紡
糸にて2000〜4000m/min.の紡糸引取速度で得ら
れたポリエステルマルチフィラメント未延伸糸は構造一
体性パラメータ(ε0.2 )の値として大略20〜40%
の範囲に存在するが、該未延伸糸を上述のような弛緩熱
処理を施し45〜70%の範囲とすることにより該弛緩
熱処理糸に自己伸長性を付与し得るのである。このこと
に関しては明確には説明し得ないが、推論するに弛緩熱
処理後の構造一体性パラメータが70%を超過すると、
該弛緩熱処理糸がいわゆる低配向度の糸条となるが、そ
の領域まで配向度を低下させることは即ち、過度に弛緩
率を上昇させることであり、弛緩熱処理の際の糸条バタ
ツキや糸条弛みにより糸条が切断してしまうことがあり
好ましくないのである。また該構造一体性パラメータが
45%未満となれば、高結晶化度の糸条となり、弛緩熱
処理で糸条の構造を変化させ難く、熱による自己伸長の
程度を大きくすることが出来ないのである。
Further, the multifilament yarn is required to have a structural integrity parameter (ε0.2) of 45 to 70%. The structural integrity parameter comprehensively determines the crystallinity and orientation of the fiber. The undrawn polyester multifilament yarn obtained at a spinning take-off speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min. By ordinary melt spinning has a structural integrity parameter (ε0.2) of about 20 to 40%.
However, when the unstretched yarn is subjected to the above-mentioned relaxation heat treatment to be in the range of 45 to 70%, self-extensibility can be imparted to the relaxed heat-treated yarn. Although this cannot be clearly explained, it is inferred that if the structural integrity parameter after relaxation heat treatment exceeds 70%,
Although the relaxed heat-treated yarn becomes a so-called low-orientation yarn, lowering the degree of orientation to that region means that the relaxation rate is excessively increased. The yarn may break due to loosening, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the structural integrity parameter is less than 45%, the yarn has a high degree of crystallinity, it is difficult to change the structure of the yarn by relaxation heat treatment, and the degree of self-elongation by heat cannot be increased. .

【0021】本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント
糸条の弛緩熱処理糸は減量率10%以上のアルカリ減量
加工することによって繊維表面に、繊維軸方向に対し直
角方向に伸びる溝を形成するが、該減量率については混
繊糸等として組み合わせる他のポリエステルマルチフィ
ラメント延伸糸の特性にもよるが、該延伸糸としてポリ
エチレンテレフタレート通常延伸糸を想定した場合、一
般的にポリエステル系マルチフィラメント未延伸糸の弛
緩熱処理糸の方が選択的にアルカリ加水分解作用を強く
受けるために極端に脆化させ過ぎないようにコントロー
ルすることが必要である。一般衣料用途では混繊糸とし
ての減量率が大略10〜30%の範囲で風合いや織編物
の物性等を考慮し適宜選定すればよい。
The relaxed heat-treated yarn of the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is subjected to alkali weight reduction processing at a weight reduction rate of 10% or more to form grooves extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction on the fiber surface. Although it depends on the characteristics of other polyester multifilament drawn yarns to be combined as a mixed fiber, etc., assuming that the polyethylene terephthalate normal drawn yarn is used as the drawn yarn, a relaxed heat-treated yarn of a polyester-based multifilament undrawn yarn is generally used. In order to selectively receive the alkali hydrolysis action more strongly, it is necessary to control so as not to be excessively embrittled. For general clothing use, the weight loss rate of the mixed fiber may be selected appropriately in consideration of the texture, the physical properties of the woven or knitted fabric, and the like in a range of approximately 10 to 30%.

【0022】ポリエステルマルチフィラメント未延伸糸
を弛緩熱処理する際、上述したように非接触式加熱方式
を採用し、加熱体滞留時間が0.05〜0.2秒間、よ
り好ましくは0.09〜230℃の範囲、より好ましく
は180〜220℃の範囲の任意の設定温度条件にて弛
緩熱処理を施すことが該ポリエステルマルチフィラメン
ト未延伸糸の弛緩熱処理糸に自己伸長性を付与する上で
望ましい。
When the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn is subjected to relaxation heat treatment, a non-contact heating method is employed as described above, and the residence time of the heating body is 0.05 to 0.2 seconds, more preferably 0.09 to 230 seconds. In order to impart self-extensibility to the relaxed heat-treated yarn of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn, it is desirable to perform the relaxation heat treatment at an arbitrary set temperature in the range of 180 ° C, more preferably in the range of 180 to 220 ° C.

【0023】本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント
糸条はアルカリ減量処理によって繊維表面に多数の微細
溝を発現させるため、一般のポリエステルマルチフィラ
メント通常延伸糸を用いて製織編した布帛と比べ引裂強
力が乏しく、単独で織編物を構成しても実用に耐え得な
い。それ故、その他のポリエステルマルチフィラメント
糸、一般的にはポリエステルマルチフィラメント延伸糸
との複合、いわゆる引揃え又は混繊糸とし、強度及び伸
度を補ってやる必要がある。混繊糸とする場合には公知
のインターレースノズル等、或いは撹乱空気流によって
ループや弛みを形成させるタスランノズル等を使用出来
る。タスランノズル等を使用する際には、ループ、弛み
によってパッケージの解舒不良を引き起こす恐れがあり
合繊加工糸用コーニングオイルを適当量付与し、パッケ
ージに巻き取るとよい。又、インターレースノズルを使
用し混繊する際は混繊糸1m当たりの交絡個数を20〜
100ケ/m程度存在させると、後工程に於ける糸割れ
等の問題を軽減出来、好ましい。
Since the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention develops a large number of fine grooves on the fiber surface by the alkali weight reduction treatment, the polyester multifilament yarn has poor tear strength as compared with a fabric woven and knitted using a general polyester multifilament ordinary drawn yarn, Even if a woven or knitted fabric is used alone, it cannot be put to practical use. Therefore, it is necessary to supplement the strength and elongation by using a composite with another polyester multifilament yarn, generally a drawn polyester multifilament yarn, that is, a so-called aligned or mixed yarn. When a mixed fiber is used, a known interlace nozzle or the like or a Taslan nozzle or the like which forms a loop or a slack by a turbulent air flow can be used. When a Taslan nozzle or the like is used, there is a possibility that unwinding of the package may be caused by a loop or looseness, so that an appropriate amount of a synthetic fiber yarn-coning oil may be applied and wound around the package. When using an interlaced nozzle to mix fibers, the number of entangled fibers per meter of mixed yarn is 20 to
The presence of about 100 / m is preferable because problems such as yarn breakage in the subsequent steps can be reduced.

【0024】このようにして得られた引き揃え糸或は混
繊糸を撚糸し、次いで低温撚止セット、或いは低温サイ
ジングを施した後、製織編し、布帛構造物とするが、通
常の染色加工等の熱処理(110℃〜200℃)によっ
て、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント未延伸糸の弛緩熱
処理糸が自己伸長を示し、交絡混繊糸のループ部を形成
し更に減量率10%以上のアルカリ減量加工によって該
弛緩熱処理糸の表面に微細溝を形成し、風合い良好なふ
くらみ感、ソフト感、微妙なドライタッチを有する織編
物を得ることが出来るのである。
[0024] The drawn or blended yarn thus obtained is twisted, then subjected to low-temperature twist setting or low-temperature sizing, and then woven and knitted to obtain a fabric structure. By heat treatment (110 ° C to 200 ° C) such as processing, the relaxed heat-treated yarn of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn exhibits self-extension, forms a loop portion of the entangled mixed fiber, and is further subjected to alkali weight reduction processing at a weight reduction rate of 10% or more. By forming fine grooves on the surface of the relaxed heat-treated yarn, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a good feeling of swelling, softness, and subtle dry touch.

【0025】[0025]

【実施例】以下、実施例により本発明を具体的に説明す
る。勿論、本発明は以下の実施例に限定されるものでな
い。なお、実施例中のL*は以下の測定方法によるもの
である。 (1) L*(白色度) JIS Z−8722(物体色の測定方法)の4分光測
定方法により、東京電色社製色差計(MODEL TC
−1500 MC−88)にて染色布(織物)のL*を
測定した。なお測定回数5回の平均値を以て測定値とし
た。 (実施例1) 紡糸引取速度3200m/min.にて紡糸された沸水
収縮率65%のポリエステルセミダル丸断面マルチフィ
ラメント高配向未延伸糸40デニール24フィラメント
を雰囲気温度が200℃の非接触式スリットヒーターで
弛緩率45%、加工速度200m/min.、ヒーター
滞留時間0.18秒の条件で弛緩処理した。弛緩熱処理
した後の高配向未延伸糸は結晶化度(Xρ)14.76
%、残留伸度213%、構造一体性パラメータ(ε0.2
)が61.1%、沸水収縮率(SHW)が−0.9
%、乾熱160℃に於ける乾熱収縮率(SHD)が−
6.3%で実質的に自己伸長を示すことが確認された。
The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to examples. Of course, the present invention is not limited to the following embodiments. Note that L * in the examples is based on the following measurement method. (1) L * (whiteness) A color difference meter (MODEL TC manufactured by Tokyo Denshoku Co., Ltd.) is measured by a four-spectrometry method according to JIS Z-8722 (method for measuring object color).
-1500 MC-88) to measure L * of the dyed cloth (fabric). In addition, it was set as the measured value using the average value of the number of measurements 5 times. (Example 1) Spinning take-off speed of 3200 m / min. Polyester semi-dal round cross-section multifilament high-density undrawn yarn 40 denier 24 filament spun with 65% boiling water shrinkage at 45% by a non-contact slit heater with an ambient temperature of 200 ° C., relaxation rate 45%, processing speed 200 m / min . The relaxation treatment was performed under the conditions of a heater residence time of 0.18 seconds. The highly oriented undrawn yarn after the relaxation heat treatment has a crystallinity (Xρ) of 14.76.
%, Residual elongation 213%, structural integrity parameter (ε0.2
) Is 61.1% and the boiling water shrinkage (SHW) is -0.9.
%, Dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at 160 ° C.
It was confirmed that 6.3% showed substantially self-elongation.

【0026】該弛緩熱処理後のポリエステルマルチフィ
ラメント未延伸糸と沸水収縮率(SHW)が16%、乾
熱160℃に於ける乾熱収縮率(SHD)が18.5%
のポリエステルセミダル丸断面マルチフィラメント通常
延伸糸50デニール10フィラメントを公知のインター
レースノズルを用いて、常温の高圧空気流によって空気
交絡処理し、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント複合糸条
を得た。該複合糸条の糸条1m当たりの交絡個数は72
ケ/mであり糸割れのない、取扱性に優れた糸条となっ
た。
The undrawn polyester multifilament yarn after the relaxation heat treatment has a boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of 16% and a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at 160 ° C. of 18.5%.
Polyester multi-filament multifilament yarn was obtained by subjecting 10 filaments of a polyester semi-dal round cross-section multifilament ordinarily drawn yarn of 50 denier to air entangling with a high-pressure airflow at room temperature using a known interlace nozzle. The number of entangled composite yarns per meter of the yarn is 72.
This was a yarn having excellent handleability and having no cracks.

【0027】該ポリエステルマルチフィラメント複合糸
条を村田機械製ダブルツイスター(No. 310−C)を
使用し、S撚方向に300T/m施撚した撚糸条を経糸
として、緯糸としてポリエステルマルチフィラメントセ
ミダル丸断面通常延伸糸150デニール96フィラメン
トをS撚及びZ撚方向に1800T/m施撚し、バキュ
ームヒートセッターを使用し雰囲気温度85℃で40分
間の撚止セットを施した撚糸条を用い、緯糸がS撚糸と
Z撚糸の2本交互の構成になるように、生産密度が経1
62本/吋、緯70本/吋の平織に製織した。精練、リ
ラックスを実施した後、液流染色機を用い29%の減量
率に仕上げた。引き続き液流染色機を使用して濃黒色
(フォーマルブラック)に染色し、通常のファイナルセ
ットを施し、仕上密度が経186本/吋、緯83本/吋
の染色加工布を得た。
Using a double twister (No. 310-C) manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd., the polyester multifilament composite yarn was twisted at 300 T / m in the S twist direction as a warp, and a polyester multifilament semi-dull as a weft. Using a twisted yarn obtained by twisting a 150-denier 96-filament circular cross-section yarn in the S-twist and Z-twist directions at 1800 T / m in a twist direction and performing a twist-set at a temperature of 85 ° C. for 40 minutes using a vacuum heat setter, Has a production density of 1
It was woven into a plain weave of 62 pieces / inch and weft 70 pieces / inch. After scouring and relaxing, the mixture was finished to a weight reduction rate of 29% using a jet dyeing machine. Subsequently, it was dyed in dark black (formal black) using a liquid jet dyeing machine and subjected to a usual final setting to obtain a dyed cloth having a finishing density of 186 lines / inch and 83 lines / inch.

【0028】走査型電子顕微鏡を用い、倍率800倍に
て該染色加工布の表面観察を実施したところ、ポリエス
テルマルチフィラメント未延伸糸の弛緩熱処理糸は繊維
軸に対し直角方向に伸びる横溝を多数形成していること
が確認された。該横溝の最大深さは目視で平均約5μ
m、繊維表面に於ける横溝の幅が目視で平均約4μm、
該横溝形成数が糸長50μm当たり平均25ケ、該横溝
のV字がなす角度が、目視で平均約30°であった。該
染色加工布のL*は13.6であり婦人向けブラックフ
ォーマル衣料に充分使用し得る深味のある色調であっ
た。また風合いについてはふかつきのないやさしい感
じ、適度なふくらみ、微妙なドライタッチ、ソフトな手
触り、更には適度なはり、腰を有する、婦人用ドレス、
ブラウス、ジャケット、スカート用途に好適な、全く新
規な風合いの織物に仕上がった。
The surface of the dyed cloth was observed at a magnification of 800 times using a scanning electron microscope. As a result, the relaxed heat-treated yarn of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn formed many transverse grooves extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis. It was confirmed that. The maximum depth of the lateral groove is visually about 5μ on average.
m, the width of the lateral groove on the fiber surface is visually averaged about 4 μm,
The number of the horizontal grooves formed was an average of 25 per 50 μm of the yarn length, and the angle formed by the V-shape of the horizontal grooves was about 30 ° on average visually. L * of the dyed cloth was 13.6, and it was a deep color tone that could be sufficiently used for black formal clothing for women. In addition, for the texture, it has a gentle feeling without a flurry, moderate swelling, subtle dry touch, soft touch, and even a moderate beam, waist, women's dress,
A completely new textured fabric suitable for blouse, jacket and skirt applications.

【0029】(比較例1) 紡糸引取速度が3200m/min.にて紡糸された沸
水収縮率65%のポリエステルセミダル丸断面マルチフ
ィラメント高配向未延伸糸40デニール24フィラメン
トを表面温度が170℃の接触式ヒーターを使用し、弛
緩率0%、加工速度200m/min.、ヒーター滞留
時間0.09秒の条件で定長熱処理した。定長熱処理し
た後の高配向未延伸糸は結晶化度(Xρ)42.25
%、残留伸度113%、構造一体性パラメータ(ε0.2
)が−0.44%、沸水収縮率(SHW)は1.7
%、乾熱160℃に於ける乾熱収縮率(SHD)は2.
3%であった。この定長熱処理した後の高配向未延伸糸
を用いた他は実施例1同様の方法で染色加工布を得た。
該染色加工布のL*は17.5であり実施例1の染色加
工布と比べ色調の濃色感が劣っていた。また風合いにつ
いてもはり、腰は適度に有するもののふくらみ感やソフ
ト感は不足していた。また走査型電子顕微鏡を用い、実
施例1同様に表面観察を実施したが微細溝の形成はな
く、微妙なさらさら感を感じることができず、新規な風
合いには程遠い織物であった。
Comparative Example 1 The spinning take-off speed was 3200 m / min. Polyester semi-dal round cross-section multifilament high-density undrawn yarn of 40 denier and 24 filaments having a boiling water shrinkage of 65% spun at a temperature of 170 ° C. using a contact type heater having a surface temperature of 170 ° C., a relaxation rate of 0%, and a processing speed of 200 m / min. And a constant-length heat treatment under the condition of a heater residence time of 0.09 seconds. The highly oriented undrawn yarn after the constant-length heat treatment has a crystallinity (Xρ) of 42.25.
%, Residual elongation 113%, structural integrity parameter (ε0.2
) Is -0.44%, and boiling water shrinkage (SHW) is 1.7.
%, Dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at 160 ° C.
3%. A dyed cloth was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the highly oriented undrawn yarn after the constant-length heat treatment was used.
The L * of the dyed cloth was 17.5, and the color tone was inferior to the dyed cloth of Example 1. In addition, the texture was good, and although the waist had a moderate feeling, the feeling of swelling and softness was insufficient. The surface was observed in the same manner as in Example 1 using a scanning electron microscope. However, no fine grooves were formed, no delicate smooth feeling could be felt, and the fabric was far from a new texture.

【0030】(比較例2) 紡糸引取速度が3000m/minにて紡糸された沸水
収縮率72%のポリエステルブライト三角断面マルチフ
ィラメント高配向未延伸糸35デニール18フィラメン
トを延伸機を使用し、延伸倍率1.671倍、延伸温度
80℃の条件で20デニール18フィラメントのポリエ
ステルマルチフィラメント延伸糸とした。該糸条を雰囲
気温度が200℃の非接触式スリットヒーターで弛緩率
45%、加工速度540m/min、ヒーター滞留時間
0.07秒の条件で弛緩熱処理した。弛緩熱処理後の糸
条は結晶化度19.34%、残留伸度80%、構造一体
性パラメータ(ε0.2 )が26.14%、沸水収縮率
(SHW)=−0.8%、乾熱160℃に於ける乾熱収
縮率(SHD)が−5.4%で実質的に自己伸長を示し
た。上記の糸条を用いた他は実施例1同様の方法で染色
加工布を得た。該染色加工布のL*は17.8であり実
施例1の染色加工布と比べ色調の濃色感が劣るものであ
った。風合いに関しては自己伸長の効果により、適度な
バルキー性、ソフト感を有するもののドライタッチは不
足していた。走査型電子顕微鏡を用い表面観察を行った
が、微細溝の形成はなく微妙なさらさら感は感じられな
かった。
(Comparative Example 2) Polyester bright triangular cross-section multifilament multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 35 denier 18 filament spun at a spinning take-off speed of 3000 m / min and having a boiling water shrinkage of 72% using a drawing machine using a drawing machine. Under the conditions of 1.671 times and a drawing temperature of 80 ° C, a drawn polyester multifilament yarn of 20 denier and 18 filaments was obtained. The yarn was subjected to a relaxation heat treatment using a non-contact slit heater at an ambient temperature of 200 ° C. under the conditions of a relaxation rate of 45%, a processing speed of 540 m / min, and a heater residence time of 0.07 seconds. The yarn after the relaxation heat treatment has a crystallinity of 19.34%, a residual elongation of 80%, a structural integrity parameter (ε0.2) of 26.14%, a boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of -0.8%, and a dryness. A dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at a temperature of 160 ° C. was substantially self-elongated at −5.4%. A dyed cloth was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the above yarn was used. L * of the dyed cloth was 17.8, and the color tone of the dyed cloth was inferior to that of Example 1. Regarding the texture, due to the effect of self-stretching, it had moderate bulky and soft feeling, but lacked dry touch. The surface was observed using a scanning electron microscope, and no fine grooves were formed, and no subtle smoothness was felt.

【0031】[0031]

【発明の効果】本発明の表面微細溝を有する自己伸長性
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を用い、織編物とす
ることによってソフトな感触とドライな感触、適度な嵩
高性とはり、腰を兼ね備え、尚且つ表面微細溝の効果に
よる微妙なさらさら感、更にはより深い色調を与えるこ
とが可能になる。この糸条を用いることにより全く新規
な風合いを有する婦人衣料素材を提供することが出来
る。
By using the self-extensible polyester multifilament yarn having the fine surface grooves of the present invention and forming it into a woven or knitted fabric, it has a soft feel, a dry feel, a moderate bulkiness, a beam and a waist, and It becomes possible to give a subtle smooth feeling due to the effect of the surface fine grooves and further a deeper color tone. By using this yarn, it is possible to provide a women's clothing material having a completely new texture.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of the drawings]

【図1】本発明に係わる表面微細溝を有する自己伸長性
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸のアルカリ減量処理
後の拡大斜視図である。
FIG. 1 is an enlarged perspective view of a self-extensible polyester multifilament yarn having surface fine grooves according to the present invention after an alkali weight reduction treatment.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

1:溝部、2:自己伸長性ポリエステルフィラメント 1: groove, 2: self-extensible polyester filament

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.6 識別記号 庁内整理番号 FI 技術表示箇所 D06M 11/38 D06M 5/02 G ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. 6 Identification code Agency reference number FI Technical display location D06M 11/38 D06M 5/02 G

Claims (2)

(57)【特許請求の範囲】(57) [Claims] 【請求項1】 結晶化度(Χρ)が20%以下、残留伸
度140%以上、乾熱160℃に於ける乾熱収縮率(S
HD)が0%未満で且つ、構造一体性パラメータ(ε0.
2 )が45〜70%であるポリエステル系マルチフィラ
メントであり、減量率10%以上のアルカリ減量処理に
よって繊維軸に対し直角方向にのびる多数の溝を形成す
るフィラメント糸を少なくとも一部に含有することを特
徴とするポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸条。
1. A dry heat shrinkage (S) at a crystallinity (度 ρ) of 20% or less, a residual elongation of 140% or more, and a dry heat of 160 ° C.
HD) is less than 0% and the structural integrity parameter (ε0.
2) is a polyester-based multifilament having 45 to 70%, and contains at least a part of a filament yarn forming a large number of grooves extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis by an alkali weight reduction treatment with a weight reduction rate of 10% or more. A polyester multifilament yarn characterized by the following.
【請求項2】 フィラメント糸の沸水収縮率(SHW)
が3%以下であることを特徴とする請求項1記載のポリ
エステルマルチフィラメント糸条。
2. The boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of the filament yarn.
The polyester multifilament yarn according to claim 1, wherein is less than 3%.
JP6192544A 1994-08-16 1994-08-16 Polyester multifilament yarn Expired - Fee Related JP2700022B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP6192544A JP2700022B2 (en) 1994-08-16 1994-08-16 Polyester multifilament yarn

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP6192544A JP2700022B2 (en) 1994-08-16 1994-08-16 Polyester multifilament yarn

Related Child Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP9089096A Division JP2842531B2 (en) 1997-04-08 1997-04-08 Polyester multifilament mixed yarn

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH0860471A JPH0860471A (en) 1996-03-05
JP2700022B2 true JP2700022B2 (en) 1998-01-19

Family

ID=16293050

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP6192544A Expired - Fee Related JP2700022B2 (en) 1994-08-16 1994-08-16 Polyester multifilament yarn

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JP2700022B2 (en)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100971257B1 (en) * 2009-10-16 2010-07-20 강현서 Pre-treatment solution of dyeing for ultra high molecular weight polyethylene yarn

Family Cites Families (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5464127A (en) * 1977-10-28 1979-05-23 Teijin Ltd Production of pilling-resistant polyester fibers
JPS5898447A (en) * 1981-12-08 1983-06-11 ユニチカ株式会社 Spun yarn like polyester processed yarn
JPS61108740A (en) * 1984-11-01 1986-05-27 帝人株式会社 Silk spun like composite processed yarn, its production and production of silk spun like fabric
JPS61194230A (en) * 1985-02-22 1986-08-28 ユニチカ株式会社 Production of crimped processed yarn comprising multilayeredstructure
JPH05163611A (en) * 1991-12-17 1993-06-29 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd Latent water-absorbable hollow polyester thick-thin fiber and its production
JPH0625918A (en) * 1991-12-24 1994-02-01 Toyobo Co Ltd Easy-raising polyester fiber and its production
JPH05302264A (en) * 1992-04-22 1993-11-16 Nippon Ester Co Ltd Production of modified polyester fiber
JPH062235A (en) * 1992-06-19 1994-01-11 Toyobo Co Ltd Polyester conjugate false twisted yarn
JPH06116828A (en) * 1992-10-05 1994-04-26 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Conjugate yarn

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH0860471A (en) 1996-03-05

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