JPH06280127A - Woolen fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a woolen fabric capable of maintaining the soft hand even after piece dyeing by using air false twisted spun yarn composed of staple fiber containing wool in a woven fabric comprising many float designs. CONSTITUTION:Rovings 1 of staple fiber, containing wool and comprising a combination of wool and polyester fiber, the wool and acrylic fiber or the wool and rayon, etc., are fed to an air false twisting type spinning apparatus 10, successively led to back rollers 11, middle rollers 12 having aprons (12a) and front rollers 13 and formed into a fleece, which is then passed through air swirling nozzles 14 and 16 and an untwisting pipe 15 to provide spun yarns. Two folded yarn of the resultant air spun yarns is subsequently used to weave a fabric having <=50% index to the textile design interlacing degree of at least one of warp and weft. The obtained fabric is then subjected to wet decatizing, scouring and drying and subsequently piece-dyed to afford the objective fabric without felting wool and shrinking in dyeing due to a great frictional resistance force between the spun yarns in the woolen fabric and eliminating the need for additional steps such as shrinkproofing, resin finishing or increasing the number of twist due to no damage to the hand of the woolen fabric.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woolen fabric which is woven from yarns containing wool fibers and has a large floating structure such as a botany structure in which the texture crossing index in at least one of warp and weft is 50% or less. In particular, the present invention relates to a woolen fabric in which even when the woolen fabric has a large amount of floating tissue, the wool fiber in the woolen fabric is less likely to be felt and shrink during dyeing or the like.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in the case of a woolen fabric woven using a yarn containing a woolen fiber, if the woolen fiber has a strong binding force, the woolen fabric is subjected to a physical action at a high temperature in dyeing or the like. Although the fibers are less likely to be felted and contracted, when the binding force of the wool fibers is weak, the wool fibers become felted and contracted, and particularly in the case of a woolen fabric having many floating tissues such as Botany tissue, Since the binding force of the wool fiber is weak, if dyeing etc. in the state of the woven fabric,
It was known that the wool fibers in this fabric felted and shrank.

Therefore, in order to obtain a woolen fabric having a large number of floating textures, which is dyed in a desired color, conventionally, in general, dyeing is performed at the stage of a yarn containing wool fiber, and dyeing is performed in this way. The yarn was used to weave woolen fabrics with a lot of floating texture.

However, when dyeing is carried out at the stage of the yarn containing wool fibers as described above and then the dyed yarn is used to weave a woolen fabric having a lot of floating tissues, woolen fabrics of various colors are obtained. It was difficult to manufacture in a short period of time, and there was a problem that it was not possible to adequately meet orders for short delivery times and small orders.

Therefore, in recent years, even in the above-described woolen fabric having a large amount of floating structure, the wool fiber is felted and shrinks even after the woolen fabric is woven, instead of being dyed at the yarn stage. Therefore, it has become desirable to be able to dye this woolen fabric in a suitable color.

[0006] Therefore, the present inventors dyed the woolen fabric as described above by subjecting the wool fibers used in the woolen fabric to shrink-proofing treatment such as chlorination treatment or resin treatment before dyeing the woolen fabric. I thought about suppressing the felting of wool fibers during the time.

However, when the wool fiber is subjected to shrink-proofing treatment or resin treatment as described above, the felting of the wool fiber is suppressed, but the texture of the woolen fabric obtained by such processing is impaired. There was a problem.

Further, the present inventors have used a yarn having a high twist number for weaving the above woolen fabric, strengthening the binding force of the woolen fiber in this woolen fabric, and making the felt of the woolen fiber at the time of dyeing. I came up with the idea of suppressing this.

However, in the case of using a yarn having such a high twist number, in the case of a yarn spun by a ring spinning machine which has been generally used in the past, if the twist number is increased, the yarn itself becomes stiff. When a woolen fabric as described above is woven using a yarn, this woolen fabric also becomes stiff, and there is a problem that the texture is impaired.

[0010]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is a woolen fabric which is woven from yarns containing wool fibers and has a large floating structure such as a botany structure in which the texture crossing index in at least one of warp and weft is 50% or less. It is an object of the present invention to solve the above-mentioned problems in.

That is, according to the present invention, in a woolen fabric having a large amount of floating tissue as described above, even when the woolen fabric is dyed in a fabric state, the wool fibers in the woolen fabric are felted and shrink, In addition, the texture of this woolen fabric is not impaired, and even in the case of a woolen fabric with many floating structures, it is easy to obtain woolen fabrics with various colors by post-dyeing. The challenge is to be able to fully respond to orders.

[0012]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention is woven with a yarn containing wool fibers and has a texture crossing index of 50% or less in at least one of warp and weft. In the woolen fabric, as the above-mentioned yarn, a yarn spun by supplying staple fibers containing wool fibers to the air jetting and false twist imparting portion in the opened state is used.

Here, the above-mentioned texture crossing index that defines the woolen fabric according to the present invention represents the hardness of the fabric in the woolen fabric, and the smaller the value, the more the floating fabric. Specifically, the number of circulations in the warp fabric in the warp direction is A, the average number of intersections in one circulation in this warp direction is B, the number of circulations in the weft direction in the weft fabric is C, When the average number of crosses in one cycle is D, the texture crossing index of warp and weft in this woolen fabric is expressed by the following formula. Supra texture index (%) = (B / A) × 100 Weft texture index (%) = (D / C) × 100

The present invention is directed to a woolen fabric having a large amount of floating texture, in which at least one of the warp and the weft shown in the above formula has a texture crossing index of 50% or less. A woolen fabric having a large number of textures has, for example, A = 4, B = 2, C = 4, D = 2, a warp texture crossing index of 50.0% and a weft texture crossing index of 5.
2/2 twill fabric with 0.0%, A = 6, B = 2
With C = 6 and D = 2, the index of the degree of tissue crossing of suture is 33.3%,
There are botany fabrics and the like having a weft texture index of 33.3%.

The yarn used for weaving the woolen fabric according to the present invention may be any yarn containing wool fiber as described above, and may be made of only wool fiber, or wool fiber and polyester fiber. Alternatively, wool fibers and acrylic fibers, wool fibers and rayon, and the like may be mixed and spun.

The yarn used for weaving the woolen fabric according to the present invention is obtained by supplying the staple fiber containing the wool fiber to the air jetting and false twisting section in the opened state as described above. Use spun yarn. And in obtaining such spun yarn,
A known air false twisting spinning device shown in Japanese Patent Publication No. 31370 or Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 56-14376 is used. Generally, as shown in FIG. 1, a roving 1 containing wool fibers is used as a back roller. 11 and between the middle rollers 12 provided with an apron 12a and the front rollers 13 in this order to form a fleece, and this fleece is then fed to the first air swirling nozzle 1
4, the untwisting tube 15, and the second air swirling nozzle 16 are guided in this order to be spun and wound around the package 18 via the pull-out roller 17.

Here, as described above, the fleece is provided with the first air swirling nozzle 14, the untwisting tube 15, and the second air swirling nozzle 16.
When performing the spinning by guiding in the order of, while the false twist is applied to the fiber bundle located in the central portion, a fiber having substantially free ends is generated around the fiber bundle, and when the false twist is untwisted, The unconstrained fiber group on the outer side is wound around the fiber bundle in the central portion, and as shown in FIG. 2, the outer fiber is wound around the fiber bundle in the central portion having substantially no real twist, and the fiber in the central portion is wound. The yarn can be obtained in a bundled state.

[0018]

In the present invention, the spun yarn obtained by supplying the staple fiber containing the wool fiber to the air-spraying and false-twisting section in the opened state is used, and the texture in at least one of warp and weft is obtained by this spun yarn. A woolen fabric having an interlacing index of 50% or less is woven.

As the yarn for weaving the woolen fabric, when the spun yarn obtained by supplying the staple fiber containing the wool fiber to the false-twisting section by air jetting in the opened state is used, at least one of warp and weft is used. Of 50% in the organization index
Even in the case of a woolen fabric with a large number of floating structures below, the frictional resistance between the yarns in this woolen fabric becomes large, and the binding force between the fibers that make up this yarn also becomes large. The wool fibers in the wool fabric do not become felt and shrink even when subjected to a mechanical action.

Therefore, in the woolen fabric according to the present invention, even if the woolen fabric is dyed at the stage of the fabric, the wool fiber in the woolen fabric does not become felt and shrink, and the dyeing is performed even in the woolen fabric having many floating tissues. Then you can get various colors.

[0021]

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, a woolen fabric according to an example of the present invention will be specifically described, and a comparative example will be given. Even if the woolen fabric according to this example is dyed at the stage of the fabric, the wool fiber in the woolen fabric is felt. It is clarified that it rarely shrinks and shrinks, and it can also be used for dyeing.

Example 1 In this example, wool fiber having a fineness of 22 μm was used as a raw material, and a wool fiber roving 1 obtained through a final finishing step of a pre-spinning step is shown in FIG. In the air false twist spinning device, a middle roller 12 provided with an apron 12a between the back rollers 11.
Between the front roller 13 and the front roller 13 in order to form a fleece.
The drawing roller 1 is spun through the air swirling nozzle 16.
It is wound into a package 18 via 7 and the twist index is 12
A 24-meter-count (hereinafter simply referred to as a count) single yarn that reached 0 was obtained. The twist index as used herein means that a yarn having a length of 1 m spun as described above is given a detwisting torque by using an actual twist automatic measuring machine, and the yarn unwound and extended has a length of 1 m again. This is a value obtained by halving the number of rotations required to return to the above, and represents the number of twists of the false twisted yarn corresponding to the number of twists of the actual twisted yarn.

Next, the No. 24 single yarn obtained as described above is combined to obtain a wool yarn consisting of No. 24 twin yarn having a twist of 360 times / m, and this wool yarn is used. It has a texture index of 33.3% and a weft index of 33.3.
A twill fabric having a ratio of 3/3 and rising to the right was woven.

Then, the twill fabric was boiled, washed, reboiled and dried, and then the twill fabric was dyed as follows.

Here, in dyeing the above twill fabric, an acid dye such as C.I. I. Acid Yellow
17, and C.I. I. Acid Red 82 and C.I.
I. 0.3% each for Acid Blue 182
owf, anhydrous Glauber's salt 5% owf, 80% formic acid 3% o
wf, a commercially available leveling agent were used at a ratio of 1% owf, and the above twill fabric was dyed for 60 minutes while boiling.

The twill fabric dyed in this way is further dried, shaved, steamed in a kettle, and oven steamed to give a finished warp density of 44.2 yarns / inch and a finished weft density of 37.4. A twill fabric having a lot of floating structure having a book / inch and a finishing width of 150 cm was obtained.

Example 2 In this example, wool fiber having a fineness of 21 μm was used as a raw material, and the above Example 1 was used.
In the same manner as in the case of No. 26, a 26th single yarn having a twist index of 120 was obtained, and then the 26th single yarn was combined to obtain a 3rd twist.
A wool yarn composed of No. 26 twin yarn at 60 times / m was obtained.

Thereafter, the treatment is carried out in the same manner as in the case of Example 1 above, and the finished warp yarn density is 45.3 yarns / inch,
Finished weft density is 38.5 yarns / inch, finished width 150
A twill fabric having a large floating structure having a size of cm was obtained.

(Comparative Example 1) In this comparative example, the same wool fiber as that used in Example 1 was used as a raw material, the wool fiber was spun by a ring spinning machine, and then the yarn was spun into a yarn. A wool yarn composed of a 24th twin yarn having a twist of 360 times / m and a twist of 400 times / m was obtained.

Then, in this comparative example, dyeing is performed at the stage of the wool yarn obtained as described above, as is generally done in the past. Here, in dyeing the above wool yarn, as a dye, Sandola is used.
n Golden Yellow MF-RL (manufactured by Sand Corp.) and Sandolan Red MF-2BL
(Sand) and Sandolan Blue MF
-BLN (manufactured by Sand Corp.) and 0.3% owf,
As a leveling agent, Lyogen MF (manufactured by Sand Co.) was used at 1.0% owf, and anhydrous Glauber's salt was used at 3.0% owf.
The pH was adjusted to 4.5 with acetic acid, and the wool yarn was dyed for 40 minutes while boiling.

Next, using the wool yarn dyed in this way, as in the case of Example 1 above, the warp texture crossing index is 33.3% and the weft texture crossing index is 33.3. A twill fabric having a ratio of 3/3 and rising to the right was woven.

Then, this twill fabric is boiled, washed, reboiled, dried, shaved, steamed in a pot, and steamed in an oven to give a finished warp density of 45.1 yarns / inch, A twill fabric having a large weft structure with a finished weft density of 35.5 yarns / inch and a finished width of 150 cm was obtained.

(Comparative Example 2) In this comparative example, as in the case of the above-mentioned Comparative Example 1, wool fibers were spun by a ring spinning machine and the resulting yarn was twisted to obtain 360 times / twist.
m, and a wool yarn composed of a 24th twin yarn having a twist of 400 times / m was used.

Then, in this comparative example, using this wool yarn, as in the case of Example 1, the warp texture crossing index is 33.3% and the weft texture crossing index is 33.
Weaving 3/3 right-increasing twill fabric of 3%, and thereafter, the twill fabric was boiled, washed and boiled again in the same manner as in Example 1 above. After dry-drying, the twill fabric is dyed, and the dyed twill fabric is further dry-rolled,
It was shaved, steamed in a kettle, and steamed in an oven.

When the twill fabric is treated as in this comparative example, the finished warp yarn density is 47.6 yarns / inch and the finished weft yarn density is 39.3.
The number of lines / inch and the finished width were 132 cm, and the shrinkage was about 10% as compared with the twill fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1.

Next, with respect to each of the twill fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 produced as described above, the surface condition of each twill fabric was visually evaluated, and each twill fabric was based on the KES method. Coefficient of friction (MI
U), average deviation of friction coefficient μ (MMD) and average deviation of surface roughness (SMD) were measured, and the results are summarized in Table 1 below. Regarding the evaluation of the surface state of each twill fabric, ◎ is a case where the felting of the surface is very small and the twill structure of the surface is clearly visible and good, ◯, a general ordinary case is ○, and the twill structure of the surface is felted. When x disappeared, it was evaluated as x.

[0037]

[Table 1]

As is clear from this result, as shown in Examples 1 and 2, the spun yarn obtained by supplying the staple fiber using wool to the air jetting and false twisting portion in the opened state was obtained. When a woolen fabric having a large amount of floating structure is woven using the woolen fabric, even if this woolen fabric is dyed at the stage of the fabric, the woolen fiber in the woolen fabric is dyed by dyeing like the woolen fabric woven using the ring spinning yarn shown in Comparative Example Was never felt and contracted. .

Further, the woolen fabrics shown in Examples 1 and 2 were dyed at the wool yarn stage even though they were dyed at the fabric stage as described above, and the wool yarns dyed in this way were used. As compared with the woolen fabric of Comparative Example 1 woven using the woolen fabric, the woolen fabric was less felted, and a woolen fabric having a good surface state and having a large number of floating structures was obtained.

Furthermore, the woolen fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 are significantly superior to the woolen fabric of Comparative Example 2 in the MIU, MMD and SMD values showing the surface characteristics thereof, and dyeing is performed at the stage of the fabric. Although compared with the woolen fabric of Comparative Example 1 which was dyed and woven at the wool yarn stage,
These values were equivalent or superior.

[0041]

As described above in detail, in the woolen fabric according to the present invention, in obtaining a woolen fabric having a lot of floating textures in which the texture crossing index in at least one of warp or weft is 50% or less, As the yarn containing the wool fiber used for weaving, the spun yarn obtained by supplying the staple fiber containing the wool fiber to the air jetting and false twist imparting section in the opened state is used. Even in a woolen fabric with many floating structures, the frictional resistance between the yarns in this woolen fabric becomes large, and the binding force between the fibers that make up this yarn also becomes large, so that it receives a physical action at high temperatures such as during dyeing. Even if it did, the wool fiber in this woolen fabric was not felted to shrink.

As a result, in the woolen fabric according to the present invention, in the above-mentioned woolen fabric having a large amount of floating structure, in order to obtain a woolen fabric having a desired color, dyeing is performed at the yarn stage in the conventional manner, After weaving a woolen fabric as described above, without weaving a woolen fabric using the yarn
This woolen fabric can be dyed to obtain a woolen fabric with a desired color, and woolen fabrics of various colors can be manufactured in a short period of time, which is sufficient for short delivery orders and small orders. It has become possible to deal with.

Further, in the woolen fabric according to the present invention, when dyeing a woolen fabric having a large number of floating tissues as described above at the stage of weaving, wool fibers in the woolen fabric are suppressed from felting and shrinking during dyeing. There is no need to perform shrink-proof processing such as chlorination or resin processing on wool fibers in woolen fabrics, or to use high-twisted and rigid yarns for weaving woolen fabrics, as in the past. , Without losing the texture of the woolen fabric,
Despite being dyed at the stage of weaving, it became possible to obtain a woolen fabric with a soft texture and a lot of floating texture.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic explanatory view showing a state in which a yarn used for weaving a woolen fabric according to the present invention is spun by an air false twist spinning device.

FIG. 2 is an enlarged explanatory view showing a state of threads used for weaving the woolen fabric according to the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 roving 10 air false twisting spinning device 11 back roller 12a apron 12 middle roller 13 front roller 14 first air swirling nozzle 15 untwisting tube 16 second air swirling nozzle 17 drawing roller 18 package

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A woolen fabric woven with a yarn containing a wool fiber and having a texture crossing index of 50% or less in at least one of warp or weft, wherein a staple fiber containing a wool fiber is opened as the yarn. A woolen fabric characterized by using a yarn spun by directly supplying it to an air jetting and false twisting section.