JPH06256151A - Skin cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a novel skin cosmetic capable of effectively preventing the blacking of skins and excellent also on the point of safety. CONSTITUTION:A skin cosmetic contains glabridin and an animal ingredient (e.g. collagen, placenta extract, conchiolin hydrolysate, elastin, fibronectin, vitronectin) and prevents the generation of inflammations and the production and deposition of skin melanin caused by external irritations such as UV rays due to the synergistic action of the essential ingredients.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention can suppress inflammation caused by external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays and the production or deposition of skin melanin, and prevent erythema (sunburn), skin blackening, spots, freckles and the like. It relates to skin cosmetics.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In the final stage of the process of darkening the skin color, tyrosine, which is one of the amino acids, produces the black pigment melanin by the action of tyrosinase. Therefore, it has been conventionally attempted to prevent pigment deposition by applying various agents having an action of inhibiting the action of tyrosinase, such as glutathione, vitamin C or its derivatives, to the skin. However, these drugs are not always satisfactory in terms of stability and effectiveness in topical application.

Other than tyrosinase, this causes or triggers the production of melanin, for example, activation of melanocytes by ultraviolet rays, involvement of various chemical mediators due to inflammation, involvement of active oxygen species produced by ultraviolet rays, and further. This is because it is difficult to sufficiently prevent the deposition of melanin even by applying a drug that merely inhibits the action of tyrosinase, as reported in the involvement of sebum peroxide and the like.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is to effectively prevent skin blackening, which is associated with many factors as described above, and is also excellent in safety. To provide new skin cosmetics.

[0005]

Means for Solving the Problems The skin cosmetic according to the present invention has an essential component of animal components selected from the group consisting of collagen, placenta extract, conchiolin hydrolyzate, elastin, fibronectin, and vitronectin and glabridin. Characterized by containing,
The synergistic action of these essential components suppresses inflammation caused by external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays and the production and deposition of skin melanin. Glabridin, which is one of the active ingredients constituting the skin cosmetic of the present invention, is a compound having the structural formula of the following chemical formula 1, and is naturally a kind of licorice Glycyrrhiza
It is contained in a small amount in glabra Linne var. (commonly known as Russian, Afghan and Turkish liquorice).

[0006]

[Chemical 1]

It has been confirmed that glabridin has a pharmacological action such as an antibacterial action, an antioxidative action, an anticarious action and an antiplasmin action, and it is also known that it has a melanin production inhibiting action (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Hei 10 (1999) -29242) 1-3110
11 publication). However, the previously confirmed melanin production inhibitory action of glabridine is that of glabridine alone, and the effect of using it in combination with animal components and other physiologically active substances has not been known.

When glabridin is extracted from licorice to be used as a raw material for producing cosmetics of the present invention, first, the root portion of licorice or its water extraction residue (for example, the residue obtained by extracting glycyrrhizin) is extracted with an organic solvent. As the extraction solvent, lower aliphatic alcohols such as methanol and ethanol; lower aliphatic ketones such as acetone; ethers such as dioxane and ethyl ether; halogenated hydrocarbons such as methylene chloride and chloroform; ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, etc. Esters such as butyl acetate; hydrocarbons such as hexane and benzene; and mixtures of two or more of these organic solvents can be used.

The licorice to be extracted is dipped in about 5 to 15 times the amount of the above solvent, and allowed to stand at room temperature or heated under reflux.
The extract obtained by distilling the solvent from the extract is usually 5 to
Although it contains about 10% of glabridin and can be used as it is in the cosmetic of the present invention, the use of a purified and highly purified cosmetic produces a cosmetic with more excellent use effect and less coloring. Obtainable. Purification
For example, it can be carried out by a method in which it is treated by normal phase silica gel chromatography and reverse phase chromatography and then crystallized from acetone. According to this method, a pure product of glabridin can be obtained relatively easily. In addition, the purification can be performed by employing any organic compound purification means such as column chromatography using a synthetic adsorbent or liquid-liquid countercurrent extraction.

[0012] Explaining animal components to be contained in the skin cosmetic of the present invention together with glabridin, collagen is a main protein of connective tissue of animals and is usually produced from bovine hide or dermis layer. Commercially available are acid soluble collagen and hydrolyzed collagen. Placenta extract is a purified water extract of bovine placenta in early pregnancy, which contains nucleic acid-related substances, enzymes, amino acids,
Contains proteins, vitamins, minerals, mucopolysaccharides, etc. Conchiolin hydrolyzate is an acid hydrolyzed protein obtained from the pearl layer of pearl oysters. Elastin, fibronectin, and vitronectin are also proteins or glycoproteins prepared from animal connective tissue, fibroblasts, body fluids and the like. Two or more kinds of these animal components may be contained in the cosmetic of the present invention.

The above-mentioned animal components are excellent in skin-protecting action and moisturizing action, and have very good biocompatibility with skin. The above-mentioned action of the animal component acts synergistically with that of glabridin to help maintain and form favorable skin. The suitable blending amount of glabridin in the skin cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the kind of the cosmetic, but is usually about 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably about 0.01 to 1.0% by weight. is there. In addition, a suitable amount of animal components is about 0.0001-
It is 5% by weight, particularly preferably about 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. It is desirable that the animal component is further compounded in an amount of about 1 to 500% by weight based on glabridin.

The cosmetics of the present invention include any cosmetics that can advantageously utilize the melanin production-inhibiting action by the combined use of glabridin and animal ingredients, such as lotions, emulsions, creams, packs, soaps, body shampoos and the like. It can take the form. Cosmetic constituents other than glabridine and animal ingredients, such as oils and fats, surfactants, thickeners, pigments, fragrances, preservatives, ethanol, polyhydric alcohols, etc.
Depending on the kind of the cosmetic, it can be arbitrarily selected within a range that does not impair the action of the two essential components.

[0013]

【Example】

[Preparation example of glabridin] 500 g of licorice root shredded pieces were immersed in 5 liters of ethyl acetate and heated under reflux for 2 hours to extract ethyl acetate-soluble components. The same operation was repeated for the extraction residue obtained by separating the extract, and a total of 9 liters of extract was obtained. The solvent of the extract was distilled off under reduced pressure to obtain 13.1 g of an extract containing glabridin. The extract was then dissolved in chloroform, sprinkled on silica gel and dried. 1 kg of this dried material was previously loaded with silica gel (Wakogel C-300, product of Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.)
Was stacked and packed on a column packed with, and eluted with a chloroform / methanol mixture (30: 1) to collect a glabridin-containing fraction. The solvent of this fraction was distilled off under reduced pressure to obtain 5.8 g of a solid substance, which was then dissolved in a small amount of methanol, sprinkled with reverse phase silica gel (ODSG-3, product of Mito Chemical Research Laboratory) and dried. , And stacked and packed on a column previously packed with 800 g of reverse phase silica gel. Pour water / acetonitrile mixture (30/70) into this column as elution solvent,
The fraction containing glabridine was collected. The solvent was distilled off from this fraction under reduced pressure, the obtained solid substance (4.3 g) was dissolved in 40 ml of acetone, and the mixture was allowed to stand at 5 ° C. for 3 days to obtain 3.8 g of crystals of glabridin. In each of the following examples,
Crystals of the above purified glabridin were used as glabridin.

Example 1 A lotion was prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 1. In this case, the glabridin crystals according to the above-mentioned production example are first dissolved in an ethanol / 1,3-butylene glycol mixed solution, and then a surfactant (polyoxysorbitan monolaurate; 20EO),
A perfume and paraoxybenzoic acid ester were added and dissolved, and then purified water and other components were added and stirred to homogenize.

[0015]

[Table 1] Lotion formulation (unit:% by weight) Note: Prescription 3 is a comparative example

Next, the use effect of each of the above lotions was tested by the following method. Test method for erythema suppressing effect: The back of a brown guinea pig was shaved, a 0.1% solution of oxsoralen was applied thereto, and after 30 minutes, UVA 1 J / cm ² was irradiated. Immediately after irradiation, 5 sections of 2 cm × 2 cm size were determined for each irradiation site, and in each section: A: the above lotion as it was B: lotion excluding glabridin from the above lotion formulations 1 and 2 C: above lotion formulation Lotion without animal ingredients from 1, 2 D: Lotion with both glabridin and animal ingredients removed from prescriptions 1 and 2 above E: Apply any of prescription 3 lotions, and after 24 hours The erythema-suppressing effect of was determined by visual observation (using the color of the skin not treated with PUVA as the reference color).

Pigmentation inhibitory effect test method: According to the erythema inhibitory effect test method, the brown guinea pigs treated with PUVA were tested.
After 1 week, the area where pigmentation was observed was divided into 5 sections of 2 cm x 2 cm, and one of the above-mentioned lotions A to E was applied to each section once every morning and evening for 10 consecutive days. After 10 days, the effect of suppressing pigmentation was judged by visual observation (PU
The standard color is the color of the skin that is not VA-treated).

The results are shown in Tables 2 and 3. Comparing the case of applying lotion containing both glaburidine and animal components with the application example of lotion excluding glabridin or animal components, the former is the latter in both the effect of suppressing erythema due to ultraviolet rays and the effect of suppressing pigmentation. Turns out to be better. In addition, no inflammation or other skin disorders were observed. Furthermore, the lotion of Formulation 3 containing only L-magnesium ascorbate phosphate in place of glabridin and the animal component was obviously inferior in use effect to the lotion of the present invention.

[0019]

[Table 2] Skin lotion basic prescription Erythema suppressing effect Prescription 1 Skin not treated with PUVA = A >> C = B> D = E Prescription 2 Skin not treated with PUVA = A >> C = B> D = E

[0020]

[Table 3] Basic lotion formulation Pigmentation suppression effect formulation 1 Skin not treated with PUVA = A >>C>B> D Formula 2 Skin not treated with PUVA = A >>C> B ≧ D

Example 2 A cream was prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 4. At the time of production, the raw materials in the same table group were first melted at 70 ° C., mixed with the raw materials, and then heated to 78 ° C. Next, this was gradually added to the raw material heated to 75 ° C. with stirring to carry out preliminary emulsification. After that, apply a homogenizer to completely emulsify,
After cooling to 50 ° C, was added and cooled to 30 ° C. In addition, the prescription 7 is a comparative example.

[0021]

[Table 4] Cream prescription (unit:% by weight) (Note) Surfactant A: Self-emulsifying glycerin monostearate Surfactant B: Sorbitan monostearate Carboxyvinyl polymer: 1% aqueous solution

Next, the effect of use of each of the above creams was tested by the following method. Pigmentation suppression effect test method: The back of a brown guinea pig was shaved, and the shaved site was divided into 4 sections of 2 cm x 2 cm, and UVB was irradiated at 1 J / cm ² for 2 days per day. Four
Since pigment deposition was observed after a day, A: the above cream as it was in each compartment B: a cream obtained by removing only glabridin from the above cream formulation C: a cream obtained by removing animal components from the above cream formulation D: formulation 7 Apply one of the creams once a day for 10 consecutive days and
After a day, the effect of suppressing pigmentation was judged by visual observation (U
The standard color is the color of the skin that is not VB treated).

Test method for erythema inhibitory effect: According to the test method for pigmentation inhibitory effect, the above-mentioned creams A to D were applied to the respective compartments on the back of UVB-treated brown guinea pigs, and after 24 hours, erythema inhibitory effect. Was judged by visual observation (UV
B: The color of the skin not treated is the standard color). The results are shown in Tables 5 and 6. Comparing the case of applying cream containing glaburidine and animal ingredients to the application example of cream excluding glaburidine or animal ingredients, the former is superior to the latter in both erythema suppressing effect and pigmentation suppressing effect by ultraviolet rays. I understood. Also,
No inflammation or other skin disorders were observed.

[0024]

[Table 5] Cream basic formulation Pigmentation suppressing effect Formulation 4 UVB-untreated skin = A >>C> B = D Formulation 5 UVB-untreated skin ≧ A >>C> B = D Formulation 6 UVB-untreated skin = A >>C> B ≧ D

[0025]

[Table 6] Cream basic formulation Erythema suppressing effect Formulation 4 UVB-untreated skin ≧ A >> C ≧ B >> D Formulation 5 UVB-untreated skin ≧ A >> C ≧ B >> D Formulation 6 UVB-untreated skin ≧ A >> C ≧ B ≫ D

[0026]

As described above, the cosmetic composition of the present invention containing glabridin and animal ingredients can effectively prevent skin inflammation and pigmentation due to ultraviolet rays and can also prevent rough skin due to an appropriate moisturizing effect. No adverse side effects were observed.

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Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Collagen, placenta extract, conchiolin hydrolyzate, elastin, fibronectin,
A skin cosmetic comprising an animal component selected from the group consisting of and vitronectin and glabridin as essential components.