JP3091045B2 - Skin cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention suppresses inflammation caused by external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays and the formation or deposition of skin melanin, thereby preventing erythema (sunburn), skin darkening, spots, freckles and the like. It relates to skin cosmetics.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In the final stage of the process of darkening skin color, tyrosine, a kind of amino acid, undergoes the action of tyrosinase to produce black pigment and melanin. Therefore, attempts have been made to prevent the deposition of pigments by applying various agents having an action of inhibiting the action of tyrosinase, for example, glutathione, vitamin C or a derivative thereof to the skin. However, these drugs are not always satisfactory in terms of stability and effectiveness in topical application.

[0003] In addition to tyrosinase, this also causes or triggers melanin production, for example, activation of melanocytes by ultraviolet rays, involvement of various chemical mediators by inflammation, involvement of active oxygens produced by ultraviolet rays, and sebum. This is because it is difficult to sufficiently prevent melanin deposition by applying a drug that merely inhibits the function of tyrosinase, as reported by the involvement of peroxides and the like.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to effectively prevent skin blackening, which involves many factors as described above, and is excellent in safety. It is to provide a new skin cosmetic.

[0005]

The skin cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises an amino acid mixture selected from the group consisting of casein hydrolyzate, seaweed extract, yeast autolysate, silk hydrolyzate and soybean hypocotyl extract. And glabridine as an essential active ingredient. The synergistic action of these essential ingredients suppresses inflammation caused by external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays and production / deposition of skin melanin (hereinafter referred to as the above-mentioned specific substances). "Amino acid mixture" in the sense of referring to the amino acid mixture). Glabridine, which is one of the active ingredients constituting the skin cosmetic of the present invention, is a compound having the structural formula shown below, and is naturally a kind of licorice.
It is contained in trace amounts in Glycyrrhizaglabra Linne var. (Commonly known as Russia, Afghanistan and Turkey Licorice).

[0006]

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[0007] Gravlidine has been confirmed to have a pharmacological action such as an antibacterial action, an antioxidant action, an anti-cariogenic action, an anti-plasmin action, and is also known to have a melanin production inhibitory action (particularly). Kaihei 1-311
No. 011). However, it has not been known how the melanin production-suppressing action is caused when used in combination with an amino acid mixture.

When glabridine is extracted from licorice as the raw material for producing cosmetics of the present invention, first, the root portion of licorice or its water-extraction residue (for example, a residue obtained by extracting glycyrrhizin) is extracted with an organic solvent. Examples of the extraction solvent include lower aliphatic alcohols such as methanol and ethanol; lower aliphatic ketones such as acetone; ethers such as dioxane and ethyl ether; halogenated hydrocarbons such as methylene chloride and chloroform; ethyl acetate, propyl acetate; Esters such as butyl acetate; hydrocarbons such as hexane and benzene; and mixtures of two or more of these organic solvents can be used. The licorice to be subjected to the extraction treatment is immersed in about 5 to 15 times the amount of the above solvent, and left standing at room temperature or heated under reflux. The extract obtained by distilling off the solvent from the extract usually contains about 5 to 10% of glabridine, and can be used as it is in the cosmetic of the present invention, but is purified to increase the purity. By using the composition, it is possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which is more effective in use and less colored.

The extract can be purified, for example, by normal phase silica gel chromatography and reverse phase chromatography followed by crystallization from acetone. According to this method, the pure product of glabridine can be relatively easily obtained. Can be obtained. Purification can be carried out by employing any other means for purifying organic compounds, such as column chromatography using a synthetic adsorbent and liquid-liquid countercurrent extraction.

Preferred examples of the amino acid mixture to be contained in the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention together with glabridine include:
In addition to an amino acid mixture obtained by hydrolyzing an animal or plant-derived protein, an amino acid mixture obtained by microbial fermentation, an amino acid mixture extracted from yeast cells, seaweeds, plant seeds, and the like. Two or more of these amino acid mixtures may be contained in the cosmetic of the present invention.

[0011] Amino acids are important constituents of natural moisturizing factors in the skin and are known to be reduced by damage by external factors of the skin. Amino acids play an important role in retaining moisture in the stratum corneum of the skin, and are therefore closely related to maintaining skin health and barriers to external stimuli, and may play a very important role from a cosmetic viewpoint. Are known. In the case of an amino acid mixture, these effects act synergistically with the effects of glabridine,
Helps maintain and form the skin.

The preferred amount of glabridine in the skin cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the kind of the cosmetic, but is usually about 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably about 0.01 to 1.0% by weight. 0% by weight. The preferred amount of the amino acid mixture is about 0.002 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably about 0.01 to 2% by weight.
It is desirable that the compounding agent be blended so as to be about 20 to 5000% by weight based on grabradine.

The cosmetics of the present invention include any cosmetics that can advantageously utilize the melanin production inhibitory effect of the combined use of glabridine and an amino acid mixture, such as lotions, emulsions, creams, packs, soaps, body shampoos and the like. It can take the form. Cosmetic components other than grabradine and amino acids, such as fats and oils, surfactants, thickeners, pigments, fragrances, preservatives, ethanol, polyhydric alcohols, etc., are essential two components depending on the type of the cosmetic. It can be arbitrarily selected within a range that does not impair the function.

[0014]

【Example】

[Grabridine production example] 500 g of the licorice root was cut into 5 liters of ethyl acetate and heated under reflux for 2 hours to extract ethyl acetate-soluble components. The same operation was repeated for the extraction residue from which the extract was separated to obtain a total of 9 liters of the extract. The solvent of the extract was distilled off under reduced pressure to obtain 13.1 g of an extract containing glabridine. Next, the extract was dissolved in chloroform, dusted on silica gel (Wakogel C-300, manufactured by Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.), and dried. The dried product was stacked and packed on a column previously filled with 1 kg of silica gel, eluted with a chloroform / methanol mixture (30: 1), and a glabridine-containing fraction was collected. The solvent in this fraction was distilled off under reduced pressure to obtain 5.8 g of a solid substance, which was then dissolved in a small amount of methanol, spread on reversed-phase silica gel (ODSG-3, manufactured by Mito Chemical Research Laboratory) and dried. The mixture was stacked and packed on a column previously filled with 800 g of reverse-phase silica gel. A water-acetonitrile mixture (30:70) was passed through this column as an elution solvent, and a glabridine-containing fraction was collected. The solvent was distilled off from this fraction under reduced pressure, and the obtained solid (4.3 g) was dissolved in 40 ml of acetone, and allowed to stand at 5 ° C. for 3 days to obtain 3.8 g of glabridine crystals. In each of the following examples, purified glabridine crystals were used as glabridine.

Embodiment 1

[Table 1] Lotion formulation (unit: wt%)

Note 1: Casein hydrolyzate: obtained by hydrolyzing dairy casein with protease and pepsin. Seaweed extract: 50% by weight of 1,3-butylene glycol is added to the crushed makombu and 10 minutes at room temperature with occasional stirring.
Extract obtained by clarifying and filtering after standing for days. Yeast autolysate: A powder obtained by autoly digesting baker's yeast, clarifying and then freeze-drying. Note 2: Formula 4 is a comparative example

A lotion was prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 1 above. In this case, first, the glabridine crystal obtained in the above production example is dissolved in an ethanol / 1,3-butylene glycol mixed solution, and a surfactant (polyoxysorbitan monolaurate; 20EO), a fragrance, and paraoxybenzoate are added. After dissolution, purified water and other components were added, followed by stirring to homogenize.

Next, the use effect of each of the above lotions was tested by the following method. Erythema suppression effect test method:
The back of the brown guinea pig was shaved, and a 0.1% solution of oxoralen was applied thereto, and 30 minutes later, UVA 1 J / cm ² was irradiated. Immediately after irradiation, five sections of 2 cm × 2 cm in size are determined for each irradiation site, and in each section, A: the lotion as it is B: the lotion obtained by removing glabridine from the above-mentioned lotions 1 to 3 C: the above lotion Lotion from which amino acids are removed from 1 to 3 D: Lotion from which both glabridine and amino acid are removed from formulas 1 to 3 above E: Erythema 24 hours after application of any of lotion of formula 4 The suppression effect was determined by visual observation (the skin color without PUVA treatment was used as a reference color).

Pigmentation-suppressing effect test: PUVA-treated brown guinea pigs according to the erythema-suppressing effect test were
One week later, the site where pigmentation was observed was divided into 5 sections of 2 cm x 2 cm, and each of the above-mentioned lotions A to E was applied once each in the morning and evening for 10 consecutive days to each section. 10 days later, the effect of inhibiting pigmentation was determined by visual observation (PU
The color of the skin not subjected to VA treatment is used as a reference color).

The results are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The lotion of the present invention containing both glabridine and the amino acid mixture is a lotion (D) containing neither glabridine and the amino acid mixture or a comparative lotion (E) of Formulation 4 using magnesium ascorbate phosphate. It can also be seen that these are also remarkably excellent in the effect of suppressing erythema caused by ultraviolet rays and the effect of suppressing pigmentation. In addition, it can be seen that the lotion of the present invention shows an excellent use effect as compared with the lotion application examples (B, C) containing only one of glabridine and an amino acid mixture. Inflammation and other skin disorders were not observed.

[0021]

[Table 2] Skin lotion basic prescription Erythema-suppressing effect Prescription 1 Skin without PUVA treatment = A≫C = B≫D = E Formula 2 Skin without PUVA treatment = A≫C ≧ B≫D = E Formula 3 Skin without PUVA treatment = A≫C ≧ B≫D = E

[0022]

[Table 3] Skin lotion basic formulation Pigmentation suppression effect Formulation 1 Skin without PUVA treatment = A≫C>E> B = D Formulation 2 Skin without PUVA treatment ≧ A≫C>E> B = D Formulation 3 Skin without PUVA treatment = A≫C>E> B = D

Example 2 A cream was prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 4. In the production, first, the raw materials in the same group in the table were melted at 70 ° C., mixed with the raw materials, and then heated to 78 ° C. Next, this was gradually added to the raw material heated to 75 ° C. while stirring, to perform preliminary emulsification. After that, complete emulsification using a homogenizer,
After cooling to 50 ° C, was added and cooled to 30 ° C. Note that Formulation 8 is a comparative example.

[0024]

[Table 4] Cream formulation (unit: wt%)

(Note 1) Surfactant A: self-emulsifying glyceryl monostearate Surfactant B: sorbitan monostearate carboxyvinyl polymer: 1% aqueous solution

Next, each of the creams was tested for its use effect by the following method. Pigmentation inhibitory effect test method: Hair is removed from the back of brown guinea pig, and the hair removal area is 2 cm
Fractionation into 4 sections of 2cm × 2cm, UV per day
B was irradiated at 1 J / cm ² for 2 days. After 4 days, pigmentation was observed, so that A: the cream as it was B: cream in which only glabridine was removed from the cream formulation C: cream in which amino acids were removed from the cream formulation D: formulation 7 One of the creams once a day for 10 consecutive days.
Days later, the effect of inhibiting pigmentation was determined by visual observation (U
The color of the skin not subjected to VB treatment is used as a reference color).

Erythema-suppressing effect test method: The creams of A to D shown above were applied to each section on the back of a brown guinea pig treated with UVB according to the test method for inhibiting pigmentation, and after 24 hours, the erythema-inhibiting effect Was determined by visual observation (UV
B: The skin color not treated is used as a reference color).

The results are shown in Tables 5 and 6. Comparing the case of applying the cream of the present invention containing a grabridine and an amino acid mixture to the application example of a cream excluding glabridine or an amino acid mixture, the former is superior to the latter in both the erythema-suppressing effect and the pigmentation-inhibiting effect of ultraviolet rays. I understood that. Inflammation and other skin disorders were not observed.

[0029]

Table 5 Cream basic formula Pigmentation-inhibiting effect Formula 5 Skin without UVB treatment = A≫C> B = D Formula 6 Skin without UVB treatment ≧ A≫C> B = D Formula 7 Skin without UVB treatment = A≫C> B ≧ D

[0030]

Table 6 Cream Basic Formulation Erythema Inhibition Effect Formulation 5 Skin without UVB treatment ≧ A≫C ≧ B ≧ D Formulation 6 Skin without UVB treatment ≧ A≫C ≧ B ≧ D Formulation 7 Skin without UVB treatment ≧ A≫C ≧ B ≧ D

[0031]

As described above, the cosmetic composition of the present invention containing a mixture of glabridine and an amino acid can effectively prevent skin irritation and pigmentation due to ultraviolet rays, and has no undesirable side effects.

────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of front page (56) References JP-A-5-25030 (JP, A) JP-A-6-145038 (JP, A) JP-A-5-213735 (JP, A) JP-A-5-213735 186324 (JP, A) JP-A-1-3111011 (JP, A) JP-A-1-100112 (JP, A) JP-A-3-178912 (JP, A) JP-A-3-178911 (JP, A) JP-A-59-212417 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) A61K ^7/ 00-7/50 CA (STN) REGISTRY (STN)

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. An amino acid mixture selected from the group consisting of casein hydrolyzate, seaweed extract, yeast autolysate, silk hydrolyzate and soybean hypocotyl extract, and glabridine as essential components. And skin cosmetics.