JPH06123058A - Production of bulky fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain bulky fabric of artificial leather tone or peach tone by spinning a polyester and a polyamide into a multi-layer sequence form at high speed, weaving the yarn as part of fabric constituent yarn into a fabric substantially without drawing and heat treatment, then heat-treating and treating with a solvent and dividing or directly dividing. CONSTITUTION:A polyester and a polyamide are subjected to conjugate spinning at 1,000-3,500m/minute take-up speed into a multilayer sequence form to make conjugate yarn substantially without drawing and heat treatment. A fabric such as warp double blend stain woven fabric or satin knitted fabric is woven or knitted by using both the conjugate yarn and common polyester drawn yarn, scoured, relaxed, dried, preset, treated with a solvent or divided, further dyed, dried and finished and set to give bulky fabric comprising conjugate yarn which is on the surface of the fabric, spontaneously elongates and has a swelling feeding and soft handle.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric having bulkiness. More specifically, a spontaneously stretchable multilayer array type composite fiber made of polyester and polyamide produced under specific conditions is used as a part of the fabric constituent fibers, and it is excellent in productivity and is an artificial leather-like or peach-like fabric. The present invention relates to a method for producing a bulky fabric that can be manufactured.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as for polyester fibers having spontaneous elongation, polyethylene fibers as described in JP-B-37-7919, JP-B-41-12052, JP-B-43-28262, etc. The crystallinity obtained by spinning and stretching the terephthalate polymer is 35.
% Or less, preferably amorphous, at least 20%
Shrinkage heat treatment, or as disclosed in JP-B-46-3372, JP-B-63-46167 and the like, a method of shrink heat-treating a polyester unstretched yarn at a glass transition temperature or higher and then stretching, Proposed. On the other hand, JP-A-2-293410, JP-A-1-250425 and the like disclose a method for obtaining a spontaneously extensible fiber by subjecting a polyester fiber spun at high speed to a relaxation heat treatment.

[0003]

However, in these conventional methods for producing spontaneously extensible fibers, heat treatment with a high relaxation rate is required regardless of the presence or absence of a substantial drawing step following the spinning step. However, unless this relaxation heat treatment is performed, the spontaneously extensible polyester fiber cannot be obtained.
If you try to increase the heat treatment speed at a high relaxation rate, winding around the feed rollers will occur frequently, so the processing speed in the raw yarn manufacturing process for fabric making will inevitably become low, which will cause productivity to deteriorate. There is. Further, the length of the heater for heat treatment must be long in order to secure the relaxation heat treatment time, which is disadvantageous in terms of equipment cost and energy consumption. On the other hand, if the rate of heat treatment is increased by decreasing the relaxation rate, the spontaneous elongation of the core becomes low, and the bulkiness and bulge of the fabric, which is a characteristic of using the spontaneously extensible fiber, become unsatisfactory. .

Further, in the conventional production of fabrics using spontaneously extensible fibers, the spontaneously extensible fibers obtained by heat treatment at a high relaxation rate are mixed with ordinary clothing fibers by an air nozzle or the like, and knitted or woven. It is used for the process. During this air mixing,
Loops and slacks, which are the characteristics of the spontaneously extensible fiber, are generated, but this causes unwinding failure in the weaving and weaving process, leading to a decrease in the cloth-making speed and a decrease in the productivity. On the other hand, in order to avoid such drawbacks, when the spontaneously extensible fiber is independently wound into a wound body and then subjected to a weaving / weaving process, the spontaneously extensible fiber is stretched and stretched spontaneously by applying tension during winding. Property is deteriorated, and the bulkiness of the obtained fabric becomes insufficient. Low tension (preferably 0.02) to the extent that stretching does not occur in the spontaneously extensible fiber.
When winding at less than g / de), it is necessary to wind at a low speed such that there is almost no operability, and moreover the obtained wound body tends to collapse, so the winding amount must be reduced. As a result, there is a problem that the amount of work such as replacement of a wound body in the weaving and knitting process increases.

The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art and to use a spontaneously extensible fiber which does not require a relaxation heat treatment which has been an obstacle to the improvement of productivity, and is excellent in bulkiness and swelling feeling. Is to provide a method capable of producing artificial leather-like or peach-like cloth with high productivity.

[0006]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted extensive studies to achieve the above object, and as a result, conjugate fibers obtained by composite spinning of polyester and polyamide into a multilayer array type at a specific take-up speed. Has been found to exhibit high spontaneous elongation even without performing relaxation heat treatment, and by using this fiber, it is possible to manufacture an artificial leather-like or peach-like cloth with high productivity, which is bulky and rich in swelling feeling. As a result, I came to complete the present invention.

That is, according to the present invention, the composite fiber obtained by composite spinning of polyester and polyamide into a multi-layer arrangement type at a take-up speed of 1000 to 3500 m / min is subjected to substantially no stretching or heat treatment, and a fabric structure is obtained. A method for producing a bulky fabric, which is characterized in that it is used as a part of a fiber to fabricate and then heat-treated, and further, the composite fiber contained in the fabric after the heat-treatment is split or split. This is a method for producing a bulky fabric.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

In the present invention, the composite fiber obtained by composite spinning of polyester and polyamide in a multi-layer arrangement type is used as a part of the fabric constituting fiber.

Examples of the polyester include terephthalic acid or its ester-forming derivative and a compound of formula HO (CH ₂ ).
A polyester produced by a conventional method from a polyalkylene glycol having _p OH (where p is an integer of 2 to 10) can be mentioned, and particularly, a polyethylene produced from dimethyl terephthalate and ethylene glycol or tetramethylene glycol. Preference is given to terephthalate or polytetramethylene terephthalate. Further, if necessary, a third component such as other glycols, difunctional carboxylic acids or oxycarboxylic acids in an amount up to about 15 mol% based on terephthalic acid may be copolymerized. The third component which can be copolymerized is, for example, 3,5-as the acid component.
Dicarboxybenzene sulfonic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, diphenyl sulfone dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, oxybenzoic acid and the like, and glycol components such as trimethylene glycol, propylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, neopentyl glycol, etc. Can be mentioned. Furthermore,
You may mix 15 or less mol% of other polyesters with this polyester. Further, it may contain a matting agent such as titanium oxide, a light resistance improving agent such as an ultraviolet absorber, a heat resistance improving agent such as an antioxidant, an antistatic agent, and other fine powder inactive substances.

Polyamides used in the present invention include nylon 4, nylon 6, nylon 6,6, nylon 7,
Polyamides made from nylon 6,10, nylon 11, nylon 12, bis (p-aminocyclohexyl) methane and 1,10-decamethylenedicarboxylic acid or 1,9-nonamethylenedicarboxylic acid, and up to 15 mol% of the above polyamides. Although a copolymer of three components can be mentioned, nylon 6 is particularly preferable. Two or more kinds of these polyamides may be mixed, and may contain a matting agent, an antistatic agent, a light resistance / heat resistance improving agent, and the like.

The above polyester component and polyamide component are compounded in a multi-layer arrangement type (including sea-island type), and their cross-sectional shapes are illustrated in FIGS. 2A to 2D, which are used in the present invention. It goes without saying that the conjugate fiber is not limited to these. In FIG. 2, 3 indicates a polyester component, 4 indicates a polyamide component, and 5 indicates a hollow portion.

In order to obtain excellent spontaneous elongation, it is necessary to keep the elongation orientation of the polyester component low in the spinning step, and it is necessary to consider the shape of the polyester component. When the polyester component consists of only one segment, the stretch orientation tends to be large. Therefore, it is necessary to divide it into a plurality of segments, or to make the thickness of the segment thin to make a multilayer structure, to increase the fusion area with the polyamide and to make it easier to be restrained by the interface, thereby making it difficult to orient. To be done. Further, in order to suppress the stretch orientation of the polyester component, it is also effective to accelerate the cooling of the spun yarn, and for that purpose, it is also desirable to provide a hollow portion. Increasing the interface between the polyester component and the polyamide component is also desirable in order to facilitate the elongation of the polyamide component due to the spontaneous elongation of the polyester component. From this point of view, in the present invention, the polyester component and the polyamide component are compounded in a multi-layer arrangement type, and the spontaneous elongation is greater than that of the core-sheath type conjugate fiber.

The composite ratio of the polyester component and the polyamide component can be arbitrarily selected as a total weight ratio in the range of 20:80 to 80:20 depending on the composite form and the interfacial area, but the polyester acting as a contracting component. The range of 25:75 to 65:35 with a low ratio of components is preferable.

In order to obtain the texture of artificial leather or peach, these composite fibers are divided by chemical or physical treatment, one component is melted and melted, or both are combined. , 0.01 to 0.7 single yarn denier
It is desirable that it can be made into an ultrafine fiber of 5 denier.

Further, it is necessary that the conjugate fiber used in the present invention is spun at a take-up speed of 1000 to 3500 m / min, and then is not substantially stretched or heat-treated.

Polyester fibers that have not been stretched or heat treated are known to have high boiling water shrinkage and dry heat shrinkage, and when they are used without stretching or heat treatment, they are 4500 m / min. It had to be spun at the above take-up speed. On the other hand, polyamide fibers that have not been stretched or heat treated have a low boiling water shrinkage,
It does not go out of the normal range of low shrinkage yarn, and when it is drawn, the boiling water shrinkage is rather high, and it is far from the spontaneously extensible fiber. Further, it has been proposed that the conjugate fiber is spun at a high speed to omit the stretching and heat treatment, but this also yields a fiber having the same physical properties as the fiber subjected to the ordinary stretching and heat treatment by the high speed spinning. It is merely an application of the known technique of being made, and is not intended to be a spontaneously extensible fiber.

However, according to the study by the present inventors, a composite fiber obtained by composite spinning of polyester and polyamide into a multi-layer array type at a take-up speed of 3500 m / min or less and not subjected to stretching or heat treatment has hitherto been spontaneously stretched. Water treatment without the relaxation heat treatment required to obtain the functional fibers
It has been found that the dry heat treatment exhibits so-called spontaneous elongation, which is longer than the yarn length before the treatment (see FIG. 1). Here, the boiling water shrinkage and the dry heat shrinkage are JIS-
It was measured according to L-1013, and the curve 1 in FIG. 1 shows the boiling water shrinkage and the curve 2 shows the dry heat shrinkage at 180 ° C.

When the take-up speed during the composite spinning exceeds 3500 m / min, the deviation in the crystallization time of the polyester and the polyamide becomes small and the spontaneous elongation due to the heat treatment is not exhibited. On the other hand, when the take-up speed is less than 1000 m / min, the obtained composite fiber exhibits spontaneous elongation but mechanical properties,
In particular, the Young's modulus decreases, it is susceptible to minute elongation due to the effect of processing tension during post-processing, spontaneous elongation changes and becomes unstable, and the physical properties of the finally obtained fabric become insufficient. Inappropriate.

When stretched or heat-treated, the amorphous part orientation or crystallization of the polyester and polyamide proceeds, the movement of the molecular chains due to heat is suppressed, and spontaneous elongation due to heat treatment is not exhibited. .

To produce the multi-layer composite fiber used in the present invention, a conventionally known composite spinning apparatus and spinneret are used,
The composite spinning may be carried out in a multi-layer arrangement type according to a conventional method. Also,
Adopting a spinning condition that promotes crystallization of polyamide and can significantly shift the time of crystallization with polyester is desirable in order to enhance spontaneous elongation, and for example,
Shortening the convergence distance of the fiber bundle after spinning, quenching immediately below the spinneret, increasing the degree of polymerization and promoting crystallization of polyamide components with additives, lowering the degree of polymerization and suppressing crystallization of polyester components with additives, melting Adjustment of temperature or the like is preferably used.

In order to apply the oil agent to the converged fiber bundle, it is desirable to use a non-aqueous oil agent in order to prevent the swelling of the polyamide, and in order to avoid the influence of moisture absorption, etc., the amount of the oil agent attached to general fibers. It is preferable that the amount is slightly larger than that.

The above-mentioned multi-layered array type composite fibers are, for example, knitted and woven with ordinary clothing fibers, or mixed with ordinary fibers to form a mixed yarn, and then knitted and woven into a fabric. There are no particular restrictions on the manufacturing conditions and the manufacturing apparatus at this time, and conventionally known conditions and apparatuses can be used.

The multi-layer array type conjugate fiber used in the present invention has low tenacity, so 100% use is not preferable, and it is necessary to mix or woven or knit with ordinary yarn. Further, in weaving, it is preferable to use it for the warp rather than the weft to which a high tension is instantaneously applied, and it is more preferable to use it without twisting. Also in knitting, it is preferable to use it for warp knitting for the same reason as above. In particular, it is desirable to use it as a part of the warp of the woven fabric or a part of the warp of the warp knit.

Further, in designing the cloth, it is preferable to arrange more of the composite fibers on the front surface or the back surface of the cloth in order to improve the texture of the cloth. Such a design is required when manufacturing artificial leather-like or peach-like cloth by dividing into ultrafine fibers.

The fabric containing the spontaneously extensible composite fiber thus obtained is subjected to a heat treatment to develop the spontaneously extensible property to obtain a bulky and swollen fabric. The heat treatment here does not need to be provided with a special heating step, and may be commonly used for presetting, refining, relaxing treatment, dyeing, drying, finishing set and the like which are usually used in fabric treatment.

In the present invention, the above-mentioned multi-layered array type composite fibers arranged on the front surface or the back surface of the cloth are further split or split and covered with ultrafine fibers having a single yarn denier of 0.01 to 0.75 denier. It is also possible to manufacture a woven fabric having an artificial leather-like or peach-like texture. For such melt splitting or division, any conventionally known method can be used, and examples thereof include raising treatment and alkali weight reduction processing (eluting polyester component).

[0028]

The reason why the multi-layer array type conjugate fiber used in the present invention exhibits spontaneous elongation even if it is not subjected to relaxation heat treatment is not clear, but it is caused by the difference in crystallization rate between polyester and polyamide. It is estimated to be.

That is, the polyamide has been crystallized early in the spinning process and the extension flow has been stopped, while the polyester is still in the amorphous state after melting at that time. If polyester is spun alone, it should be oriented and crystallized by subsequent cooling and elongation, but since it is fused and composited with polyamide,
Stretching orientation does not proceed, and as it is cooled, crystallization proceeds in random directions with the stretching in the fiber axis direction being restricted. As a result, when heat was applied to the obtained conjugate fiber to increase the mobility of the molecular chains of both the polyester component and the polyamide component, the polyester amorphous molecules frozen in a distorted form were elongated in the fiber axis direction. However, it is presumed that the polyamide molecules have to be stretched due to the force due to the force, and the entire composite fiber is stretched. In this case, as shown in FIG. 2, a multi-layer array type (including a sea-island type) in which the fusion area of the polyester component and the polyamide component is large, and it is easier to be restrained by the interface, so It is considered that the spontaneous elongation is increased. In particular, as shown in FIG. 1, the large elongation due to the boiling water treatment is presumed to be because the crystal part once formed is destroyed by the swelling action of water on the polyamide.

Thus, the composite fiber used in the present invention is
Since it exhibits spontaneous elongation even if it is not subjected to the relaxation heat treatment, it is possible to omit the relaxation heat treatment which has been an obstacle to improving productivity. Furthermore, since it is not subjected to relaxation heat treatment, even if it is mixed with other fibers, defects such as loops that cause unwinding failure do not occur, and even when wound alone, it has a relatively high winding tension. Since it can be wound up (the decrease in spontaneous stretchability is small), winding collapse is unlikely to occur, the air mixing step can be omitted, and the productivity at the time of cloth making can be remarkably improved.

Further, since the multi-layered array type composite fiber is used, it is made into an ultrafine fiber by melt splitting or splitting to give an artificial leather tone,
It is also possible to make a peach-like cloth.

As a result, it is possible to manufacture a fabric having excellent bulkiness and bulge, and artificial leather or peach-like fabric with high productivity.

[0033]

EXAMPLES The present invention will now be specifically described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

[0034]

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 measured with an o-chlorophenol solution at 35 ° C. was melted at 295 ° C., and nylon having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.34 measured with an m-cresol solution at 35 ° C. No. 6 was melted at 260 ° C. and the spin block temperature was 285 ° C. and the heating temperature under the spinneret was 270 ° C.
Composite spinning was carried out using the composite spinneret described in Japanese Patent No. 4642, and after cooling according to a conventional method, the yarns were converged and a non-aqueous oily agent was applied, and wound up as it was at a speed of 2450 m / min. At this time, the composite ratio (weight ratio) of polyethylene terephthalate and nylon 6 is 50:50, and
A hollow annular side-by-side multilayer array type conjugate fiber having a cross-sectional shape shown in (A) was obtained. The obtained composite fiber is
75 denier / 20 filament, strength 2.7g / d
e, the breaking elongation was 199%, the boiling water shrinkage rate was -4.8% (extension rate 4.8%), and the 180 ° C dry heat shrinkage rate was -6.7% (extension rate 6.7%).

The winding speed of this composite fiber is 1000
The boiling water shrinkage rate and the 180 ° C. dry heat shrinkage rate of the obtained composite fiber were measured by changing the range of up to 4000 m / min. The result is shown in FIG. In the figure, 1 shows boiling water shrinkage and 2 shows 180 ° C. dry heat shrinkage.

The resulting composite fiber and normal 50 denier /
Two sets of warp yarns are made with 24 filament polyester drawn yarns, and 75 denier / 24 filament polyester drawn yarns are used as weft yarns, and the warp density is 4600 yarns /
A warp double weave satin having a weft density of 85 threads / inch was woven. Immediately after weaving, the greige had a structure in which a large amount of the composite fiber was exposed on the surface, but the bulge was not significant and the gloss was lacking.

When this greige was subjected to refining, relaxation treatment, drying and presetting, the composite fibers that appeared on the surface caused spontaneous elongation and formed many fine loops, resulting in a fabric rich in bulges. Further, this fabric was subjected to buff raising by a conventional method, dyed, dried, and finish-set. As a result, a fabric having a large number of fine fluff on the surface of the fabric and having a very soft texture was obtained.

When the surface of this cloth was observed with an electron microscope, the fluff protruding on the surface was randomly divided into various thicknesses. Since random polyester fine fibers and polyamide fine fibers were mixed on the surface, they had natural color spots and had a moist texture. Further, the texture of the spontaneously stretched conjugate fiber was extremely soft because it was amorphous.

[0039]

Example 2 Polyethylene terephthalate and nylon 6
A composite fiber of 50 denier / 24 filaments was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the composite ratio (weight ratio) of the above was set to 60:40, and the composite fiber having the cross-sectional shape shown in FIG. The physical properties of the obtained conjugate fiber have a strength of 2.2 g / de,
Breaking elongation: 270%, boiling water shrinkage: -9.3% (elongation: 9.
3%), 180 ° C. dry heat shrinkage-8.6% (elongation 8.6
%)Met.

This composite fiber and normal 50 denier / 24
Two sets of warp yarns are made with filament polyamide stretched yarns, the composite fiber warp yarns are passed through the front reed, knitted into plain cord knitting over 4 wells, and the polyamide stretched yarn warp yarns are passed through the rear reeds and knitted in denby knitting. The knitting was performed at a density of 36 gauge.

Immediately after knitting, the greige had a glossy structure with many composite fibers on the surface, but there was not much bulging.

In the knitted fabric obtained by subjecting this greige to the usual post-processing treatment, the composite fibers on the surface caused spontaneous stretching, and the swelling feeling was increased.

Further, when all the polyester components contained in the composite fiber were eluted by alkali reduction processing, a knitted fabric having a large number of ultrafine loops on the surface and having a soft texture was obtained.

[0044]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, there is no need for the relaxation heat treatment, which was essential for the conventionally used spontaneously extensible fibers,
The productivity can be greatly improved. Furthermore, even when mixed with other fibers, defects such as loops that cause unwinding failure do not occur, and even when wound alone, it can be wound with a relatively high winding tension, It is possible to prevent the collapse of the winding, the air mixing step can be omitted, and the productivity at the time of cloth making can be remarkably improved.
Moreover, it is possible to manufacture a fabric that is excellent in bulkiness and bulge, and that is artificial leather or peach.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing an example of a relationship between a spinning speed of a conjugate fiber used in the present invention and a shrinkage rate during heat treatment.

FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of the cross-sectional shape of the conjugate fiber used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Boiling water shrinkage 2 180 ° C dry heat shrinkage 3 Polyester component 4 Polyamide component 5 Hollow part

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A polyester and a polyamide comprising 1000
The composite fiber obtained by composite spinning into a multi-layered array type at a take-up speed of ~ 3500 m / min is used as a part of the fabric constituent fiber without being substantially stretched or heat-treated, and then heat-treated. A method for producing a bulky fabric, comprising: 2. The method for producing a bulky fabric according to claim 1, wherein the composite fiber contained in the fabric after the heat treatment is further split or divided.