JP6829581B2 - Oily cosmetics - Google Patents
Oily cosmetics Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP6829581B2 JP6829581B2 JP2016215200A JP2016215200A JP6829581B2 JP 6829581 B2 JP6829581 B2 JP 6829581B2 JP 2016215200 A JP2016215200 A JP 2016215200A JP 2016215200 A JP2016215200 A JP 2016215200A JP 6829581 B2 JP6829581 B2 JP 6829581B2
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- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- component
- mass
- cosmetic according
- group
- oily cosmetic
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 124
- -1 palmitic acid ester Chemical class 0.000 claims description 84
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- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 48
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 31
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- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 30
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 30
- 239000001863 hydroxypropyl cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 30
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- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims description 25
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- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-hexadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
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- ARBOVOVUTSQWSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoyl chloride Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(Cl)=O ARBOVOVUTSQWSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
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- DVQHRBFGRZHMSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium methyl 2,2-dimethyl-4,6-dioxo-5-(N-prop-2-enoxy-C-propylcarbonimidoyl)cyclohexane-1-carboxylate Chemical compound [Na+].C=CCON=C(CCC)[C-]1C(=O)CC(C)(C)C(C(=O)OC)C1=O DVQHRBFGRZHMSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 125000002889 tridecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- UUJLHYCIMQOUKC-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[oxo(trimethylsilylperoxy)silyl]peroxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)OO[Si](=O)OO[Si](C)(C)C UUJLHYCIMQOUKC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-UHFFFAOYSA-K trisodium;5-oxo-1-(4-sulfonatophenyl)-4-[(4-sulfonatophenyl)diazenyl]-4h-pyrazole-3-carboxylate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=NN(C=2C=CC(=CC=2)S([O-])(=O)=O)C(=O)C1N=NC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- RSJKGSCJYJTIGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N undecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC RSJKGSCJYJTIGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002948 undecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000012178 vegetable wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002023 wood Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N β-Carotene Chemical compound CC=1CCCC(C)(C)C=1\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
- A61K8/897—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing halogen, e.g. fluorosilicones
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
Landscapes
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- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、油性化粧料に関する。 The present invention relates to oil-based cosmetics.
口紅等の油性化粧料では、美しい仕上がりや、滑らかな感触を得るため、種々の検討がなされている。例えば、特許文献1には、特定のアシル化セルロース誘導体と、エステル油及び炭化水素油を特定の割合で組み合わせた油性化粧料が、滑らかな感触が持続することが記載されている。また、特許文献2には、特定のアシル化セルロース誘導体、シリコーン油剤、エステル油を含有する油性化粧料が、透明感と光沢に優れ、滑らかな感触が持続することが記載され、特許文献3には、特定のアシル化セルロース誘導体、非イオン性親水基を有するシリコーンを含有する油性化粧料が、美しい化粧仕上がりの持続性に優れ、滑らかな感触が持続することが記載されている。 Various studies have been conducted on oil-based cosmetics such as lipsticks in order to obtain a beautiful finish and a smooth feel. For example, Patent Document 1 describes that an oily cosmetic in which a specific acylated cellulose derivative is combined with an ester oil and a hydrocarbon oil in a specific ratio maintains a smooth feel. Further, Patent Document 2 describes that an oil-based cosmetic containing a specific acylated cellulose derivative, a silicone oil agent, and an ester oil has excellent transparency and luster, and a smooth feel is maintained. It is described that an oily cosmetic containing a specific acylated cellulose derivative and a silicone having a nonionic hydrophilic group has an excellent durability of a beautiful cosmetic finish and a smooth feel.
アシル化セルロース誘導体を含有する油性化粧料は、滑らかな感触に優れるものの、色移りや色持ちの点で課題があった。 An oil-based cosmetic containing an acylated cellulose derivative has an excellent smooth feel, but has problems in terms of color transfer and color retention.
本発明者らは、特定のアシル化セルロース誘導体と、揮発性炭化水素油及びエステル油を、特定の割合で組み合わせて用いれば、滑らかな感触に優れるとともに、色移りが抑制され、色持ちが改善された油性化粧料が得られることを見出した。 When a specific acylated cellulose derivative and a volatile hydrocarbon oil and an ester oil are used in a specific ratio in combination, the present inventors have an excellent smooth feel, suppress color transfer, and improve color retention. It was found that the oil-based cosmetics obtained were obtained.
本発明は、次の成分(A)、(B)及び(C):
(A)主鎖にセルロース骨格を有し、全水酸基の45〜95mol%が基−O-M-R(MはCH2又はカルボニル基C=Oを示し、Rは炭素数3〜40の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基を示す)で置換されているセルロース誘導体 1〜50質量%、
(B)揮発性の炭化水素油 5〜80質量%、
(C)25℃で液状のエステル油 5〜50質量%
を含有し、成分(C)に対する成分(B)の質量割合(B)/(C)が、0.7〜9であり、25℃におけるせん断速度0.1s-1 のとき、バルク全体のせん断粘度が1500Pa・s 以下である油性化粧料に関する。
In the present invention, the following components (A), (B) and (C):
(A) It has a cellulose skeleton in the main chain, and 45 to 95 mol% of all hydroxyl groups is a group-OM-R (M represents CH 2 or a carbonyl group C = O, and R is a direct chain having 3 to 40 carbon atoms. 1 to 50% by mass of cellulose derivative substituted with (indicating an alkyl or alkenyl group) of the chain or branched chain,
(B) Volatile hydrocarbon oil 5-80% by mass,
(C) Ester oil liquid at 25 ° C. 5 to 50% by mass
When the mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) is 0.7 to 9 and the shear rate at 25 ° C. is 0.1 s -1 , the shear of the entire bulk is carried out. The present invention relates to oil-based cosmetics having a viscosity of 1500 Pa · s or less.
本発明の油性化粧料は、塗布時にごわつきやつっぱり感などを感じず、唇や皮膚などが滑らかであり、塗布直後及び長時間経過後においても、カップ等への2次付着が抑制され、水濡れにも強いものである。また、唇や皮膚などから化粧料を落とすときには、きれいに落とすことができる。 The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention does not feel stiff or taut when applied, has smooth lips and skin, and suppresses secondary adhesion to cups and the like immediately after application and even after a long period of time, and water. It is also resistant to getting wet. Also, when removing cosmetics from the lips or skin, it can be removed cleanly.
本発明で用いる成分(A)のセルロース誘導体は、主鎖にセルロース骨格を有するものであれば限定されないが、原料セルロース誘導体としては、セルロースを含むほか、アセチルセルロース、アセチルブチルセルロース等の短鎖アシル化セルロース、メチルセルロース、エチルセルロース等の短鎖アルキルエーテル化セルロース、ヒドロキシアルキル基、グリセリルエーテル基、(モノ)アルキルグリセリルエーテル基で変性されたセルロースが好ましい。より具体的には、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロース、グリセリルセルロース、メチルグリセリルセルロース等が挙げられる。
更には、成分(A)のセルロース誘導体の製造原料のセルロース誘導体としては、以下の構成単位を有するものが好ましい。
The cellulose derivative of the component (A) used in the present invention is not limited as long as it has a cellulose skeleton in the main chain, but the raw material cellulose derivative includes cellulose and short-chain acyl such as acetyl cellulose and acetyl butyl cellulose. Short-chain alkyl etherified cellulose such as modified cellulose, methyl cellulose, and ethyl cellulose, and cellulose modified with a hydroxyalkyl group, a glyceryl ether group, and a (mono) alkyl glyceryl ether group are preferable. More specifically, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, glyceryl cellulose, methyl glyceryl cellulose and the like can be mentioned.
Further, the cellulose derivative as a raw material for producing the cellulose derivative of the component (A) preferably has the following structural units.
(式中、R'は炭素数2〜8の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキレン基を示し、nはグルコース単位当たりのR'Oの平均付加モル数が0.1〜10となる数を示す) (In the formula, R'indicates a linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and n indicates a number in which the average number of moles of R'O added per glucose unit is 0.1 to 10.)
当該構成単位において、R'としては、直鎖又は分岐鎖の炭素数2〜4のアルキレン基が好ましく、更には、エチレン基及びプロピレン基がより好ましい。またnとしては、グルコース単位当たりのR'Oの平均付加モル数が0.3〜5となる数が好ましく、0.5〜4.5となる数がより好ましく、1〜4となる数が更に好ましい。 In the structural unit, as R', an alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in a straight chain or a branched chain is preferable, and an ethylene group and a propylene group are more preferable. Further, as n, the number of R'O added moles per glucose unit is preferably 0.3 to 5, more preferably 0.5 to 4.5, and 1 to 4 is preferable. More preferred.
原料セルロース誘導体の好ましいものとしては、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース等が挙げられ、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースがより好ましい。
また、原料セルロース誘導体の質量平均分子量(Mw)は、油剤への溶解性、及び感触の点から、好ましくは1万〜400万、より好ましくは10万〜300万、更に好ましくは30万〜200万である。
Preferred raw material cellulose derivatives include hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and the like, with hydroxypropyl cellulose being more preferred.
The mass average molecular weight (Mw) of the raw material cellulose derivative is preferably 10,000 to 4 million, more preferably 100,000 to 3 million, still more preferably 300,000 to 200, from the viewpoint of solubility in an oil agent and feel. It is ten thousand.
成分(A)のセルロース誘導体は、原料セルロース誘導体の水酸基の置換基である基−O−M−R中、MはCH2又はカルボニル基C=Oを示し、Rは炭素数3〜40の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基である。
(i)直鎖のアルキル基としては、ブチル基、ペンチル基、ヘキシル基、ヘプチル基、オクチル基、ノニル基、デシル基、ウンデシル基、ドデシル基、トリデシル基、テトラデシル基、ペンタデシル基、ヘキサデシル基、ヘプタデシル基、オクタデシル基、ノナデシル基、イコシル基、ヘンイコシル基、ドコシル基、トリコシル基、テトラコシル基、ペンタコシル基、ヘキサコシル基、ヘプタコシル基、オクタコシル基、ノナコシル基、トリアコンチル基、ヘントリアコンチル基、ドトリアコンチル基、トリトリアコンチル基、テトラトリアコンチル基、ペンタトリアコンチル基、ヘキサトリアコンチル基、ヘプタトリアコンチル基、オクタトリアコンチル基、ノナトリアコンチル基及びテトラコンチル基が挙げられる。
The cellulose derivative of the component (A) has CH 2 or a carbonyl group C = O in the group-O-M-R which is a substituent of the hydroxyl group of the raw material cellulose derivative, and R is a direct group having 3 to 40 carbon atoms. It is an alkyl group or an alkenyl group of a chain or a branched chain.
(I) As the linear alkyl group, a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, Heptadecyl group, octadecyl group, nonadesyl group, icosyl group, henicosyl group, docosyl group, tricosyl group, tetracosyl group, pentacosyl group, hexacosyl group, heptacosyl group, octacosyl group, nonacosyl group, triacontyl group, hentoriacontyl group, dotoriacontyl group Examples thereof include a tritririacontyl group, a tetratririacontyl group, a pentatriacontyl group, a hexatriacontyl group, a heptritoriacontyl group, an octatriacontyl group, a nonatriacontyl group and a tetracontyl group.
(ii)分岐鎖のアルキル基としては、メチルペンチル基、メチルヘキシル基、メチルヘプチル基、メチルオクチル基、メチルノニル基、メチルウンデシル基、メチルヘプタデシル基、エチルヘキサデシル基、メチルオクタデシル基、プロピルペンタデシル基、2−ヘキシルデシル基、2−オクチルドデシル、2−ヘプチルウンデシル基、2−デシルテトラデシル基、2−ドデシルヘキサデシル基、2−テトラデシルオクタデシル基、2−ヘキサデシルイコシル基等が挙げられる。 (Ii) As the alkyl group of the branched chain, methylpentyl group, methylhexyl group, methylheptyl group, methyloctyl group, methylnonyl group, methylundecyl group, methylheptadecyl group, ethylhexadecyl group, methyloctadecyl group and propyl Pentadecyl group, 2-hexyldecyl group, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-heptylundecyl group, 2-decyltetradecyl group, 2-dodecyl hexadecyl group, 2-tetradecyl octadecyl group, 2-hexadecyl icosyl group And so on.
(iii)直鎖のアルケニル基としては、ドデセニル基、トリデセニル基、テトラデセニル基、ペンタデセニル基、ヘキサデセニル基、ヘプタデセニル基、オクタデセニル基、ノナデセニル基、イコセニル基、ヘンイコセニル基、ドコセニル基、トリコセニル基、テトラコセニル基、ペンタコセニル基、ヘキサコセニル基、ヘプタコセニル基、オクタコセニル基等が挙げられる。
(iv)分岐鎖のアルケニル基としては、イソトリデセニル基、イソオクタデセニル基、イソトリアコンテニル基、2−ブチルオクテニル基、2−ヘキシルデセニル基、2−オクチルドデセニル基、2−デシルテトラデセニル基、2−ドデシルヘキサデセニル基等が挙げられる。
(Iii) Examples of the linear alkenyl group include dodecenyl group, tridecenyl group, tetradecenyl group, pentadecenyl group, hexadecenyl group, heptadecenyl group, octadecenyl group, nonadesenyl group, icosenyl group, henicosenyl group, docosenyl group, tricosenyl group, tetracosenyl group. Examples thereof include a pentacosenyl group, a hexacosenyl group, a heptacosenyl group, an octacosenyl group and the like.
(Iv) As the alkenyl group of the branched chain, isotridecenyl group, isooctadecenyl group, isotoriacontenyl group, 2-butyloctenyl group, 2-hexyldecenyl group, 2-octyldodecenyl group, 2-decyltetra Examples thereof include a decenyl group and a 2-dodecylhexadecenyl group.
これらのうち、油性化粧料の塗布時の滑らかさを付与し、唇や皮膚などに均一な被膜を形成する観点から、Rは、直鎖アルキル基が好ましい。また、伸ばしやすさ、密着性の良さから、炭素数9〜21が好ましく、炭素数11〜17がより好ましく、炭素数15が更に好ましい。 Of these, a linear alkyl group is preferable for R from the viewpoint of imparting smoothness when the oily cosmetic is applied and forming a uniform film on the lips and skin. Further, from the viewpoint of ease of stretching and good adhesion, the number of carbon atoms is preferably 9 to 21, more preferably 11 to 17 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 15 carbon atoms.
水酸基の基−O−M−R置換率は、油剤への溶解性を高め、塗布時にごわつきやつっぱり感を感じない点や、カップ等への2次付着を抑制する点から、45mol%以上であり、48mol%以上が好ましく、51mol%以上がより好ましく、ヨレにくさや耐水性を高める点から、95mol%以下であり、94mol%以下が好ましく、92mol%以下がより好ましく、66mol%以下がさらに好ましい。また、水酸基の基−O−M−R置換率は、45〜95mol%であり、48〜94mol%が好ましく、51〜92mol%がより好ましく、51〜66mol%がさらに好ましい。
水酸基は、適度に残留していることが、使用感、顔料分散性の点から好ましく、5mol%以上が好ましく、6mol%以上がより好ましく、8mol%以上がさらに好ましく、34mol%以上がよりさらに好ましく、55mol%以下が好ましく、52mol%以下がより好ましく、49mol%以下がさらに好ましい。また、水酸基の残留率は、5〜55mol%が好ましく、6〜52mol%がより好ましく、8〜49mol%がさらに好ましく、34〜49mol%がよりさらに好ましい。
The group-OMR substitution rate of the hydroxyl group is 45 mol% or more from the viewpoint of increasing the solubility in the oil agent, not feeling stiff or taut at the time of application, and suppressing the secondary adhesion to the cup or the like. It is preferably 48 mol% or more, more preferably 51 mol% or more, and from the viewpoint of increasing the resistance to twisting and water resistance, it is 95 mol% or less, preferably 94 mol% or less, more preferably 92 mol% or less, still more preferably 66 mol% or less. .. The group-OMR substitution rate of the hydroxyl group is 45 to 95 mol%, preferably 48 to 94 mol%, more preferably 51 to 92 mol%, still more preferably 51 to 66 mol%.
It is preferable that the hydroxyl group remains appropriately from the viewpoint of usability and pigment dispersibility, preferably 5 mol% or more, more preferably 6 mol% or more, further preferably 8 mol% or more, still more preferably 34 mol% or more. , 55 mol% or less, more preferably 52 mol% or less, still more preferably 49 mol% or less. The residual ratio of the hydroxyl group is preferably 5 to 55 mol%, more preferably 6 to 52 mol%, further preferably 8 to 49 mol%, still more preferably 34 to 49 mol%.
成分(A)のセルロース誘導体の質量平均分子量は、油成分への溶解性、滑らかな感触が持続する点から、10万以上が好ましく、20万以上がより好ましく、30万以上が更に好ましく、50万以上がより更に好ましく、500万以下が好ましく、400万以下がより好ましく、300万以下が更に好ましく、200万以下がより更に好ましい。
なお、質量平均分子量(Mw)は、ゲルパーミエーションクロマトグラフィー(クロロホルム溶媒、直鎖ポリスチレンを標準として定められた較正曲線、屈折率検出器を用いる)測定によって求められるものである。
The mass average molecular weight of the cellulose derivative of the component (A) is preferably 100,000 or more, more preferably 200,000 or more, further preferably 300,000 or more, and even more preferably 50, from the viewpoint of sustainability in the oil component and a smooth feel. More than 10,000 is more preferable, 5 million or less is more preferable, 4 million or less is more preferable, 3 million or less is further preferable, and 2 million or less is further preferable.
The mass average molecular weight (Mw) is determined by gel permeation chromatography (using a calibration curve defined with a chloroform solvent and linear polystyrene as a standard and a refractive index detector).
成分(A)のセルロース誘導体は、原料セルロース誘導体と、炭素数3〜40の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基を有する酸ハライドとを反応させ、原料セルロース誘導体の全水酸基の45〜95mol%を置換することにより製造される。
また、MがCH2であるものは、塩基存在下に、セルロース誘導体と対応するアルキルハライドあるいはアルキルメシラート等のスルホン酸エステルを反応させることによって製造することができる。主鎖がセルロース骨格からなるものは、アセチルセルロースのエステル交換反応(アシドーリシス)によっても得ることができる。この方法によれば、水酸基の残留量が極めて低いセルロースエステル誘導体が得られる。
The cellulose derivative of the component (A) is obtained by reacting the raw material cellulose derivative with an acid halide having a linear or branched alkyl group or alkenyl group having 3 to 40 carbon atoms, and 45 to 95 mol of all the hydroxyl groups of the raw material cellulose derivative. Manufactured by substituting%.
Further, the product in which M is CH 2 can be produced by reacting a cellulose derivative with a corresponding sulfonic acid ester such as alkyl halide or alkyl mesylate in the presence of a base. Those having a cellulose skeleton as the main chain can also be obtained by a transesterification reaction (acidorysis) of acetyl cellulose. According to this method, a cellulose ester derivative having an extremely low residual amount of hydroxyl groups can be obtained.
具体的には、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースベヘン酸エステル;ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースベヘン酸エステル;ヒドロキシエチルメチルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルメチルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルメチルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルメチルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルメチルセルロースベヘン酸エステル;ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースベヘン酸エステル等が挙げられる。中でも、唇や皮膚などに均一な被膜を形成し、カップ等への2次付着を抑制する点から、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースベヘン酸エステルが好ましく、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステルがより好ましい。 Specifically, hydroxyethyl cellulose laurate ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose palmitate ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose stearic acid ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose bechenic acid ester; hydroxypropyl cellulose lauric acid ester, hydroxypropyl cellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxy Propropylcellulose palmitate, hydroxypropylcellulose stearate, hydroxypropylcellulosebechenic acid ester; hydroxyethylmethylcelluloselauric acid ester, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxyethylmethylcellulosepalmitic acid ester, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose stearate ester, hydroxyethyl Methylcellulose bechenic acid ester; examples thereof include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose laurate ester, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose palmitate ester, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose stearate ester, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose bechenic acid ester and the like. Among them, hydroxypropyl cellulose laurate ester, hydroxypropyl cellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxypropyl cellulose palmitic acid ester, hydroxypropyl from the viewpoint of forming a uniform film on the lips and skin and suppressing secondary adhesion to cups and the like. Cellulose stearic acid ester and hydroxypropyl cellulose bechenic acid ester are preferable, and hydroxypropyl cellulose palmitic acid ester is more preferable.
成分(A)のセルロース誘導体は、1種又は2種以上を用いることができ、含有量は、唇や皮膚などに均一な被膜を形成し、カップ等への2次付着を抑制する点から、全組成中に1質量%以上であり、1.5質量%以上が好ましく、2質量%以上がより好ましく、3質量%以上がさらに好ましく、50質量%以下であり、30質量%以下が好ましく、20質量%以下がより好ましく、15質量%以下がさらに好ましく、10質量%以下がよりさらに好ましい。また、成分(A)の含有量は、全組成中に1〜50質量%であり、1.5〜30質量%が好ましく、2〜20質量%がより好ましく、2〜15質量%がさらに好ましく、3〜10質量%がよりさらに好ましい。 As the cellulose derivative of the component (A), one kind or two or more kinds can be used, and the content is from the viewpoint of forming a uniform film on the lips, skin and the like and suppressing secondary adhesion to the cup and the like. 1% by mass or more, preferably 1.5% by mass or more, more preferably 2% by mass or more, further preferably 3% by mass or more, 50% by mass or less, and preferably 30% by mass or less in the total composition. 20% by mass or less is more preferable, 15% by mass or less is further preferable, and 10% by mass or less is further preferable. The content of the component (A) is 1 to 50% by mass, preferably 1.5 to 30% by mass, more preferably 2 to 20% by mass, still more preferably 2 to 15% by mass in the total composition. 3 to 10% by mass is even more preferable.
成分(B)は、揮発性の炭化水素油である。揮発性とは、35〜87℃の引火点を有するものである。
成分(B)の揮発性炭化水素油としては、成分(A)との相溶性に優れ、本揮発性炭化水素油が、揮散した後でも、べたついたり、ごわついたりする感触がない点から、例えば、n−デカン、n−ウンデカン、n−ドデカン等のパラフィン系炭化水素油;イソデカン、イソドデカン、水添ポリイソブテン等のイソパラフィン系炭化水素油;シクロデカン、シクロドデカン等の環状パラフィン炭化水素油が挙げられる。これらのうち、炭素数8〜16の炭化水素油が好ましく、炭素数10〜16の炭化水素油がより好ましく、炭素数12の炭化水素油がさらに好ましい。なかでも、イソパラフィン系炭化水素油が好ましく、イソドデカン、炭素数12の水添ポリイソブテンがより好ましく、イソドデカンがさらに好ましい。
市販品としては、マルカゾールR(丸善石油化学社製:引火点48℃)、パールリーム3(日油社製:引火点61℃)等が挙げられる。
The component (B) is a volatile hydrocarbon oil. Volatile means having a flash point of 35 to 87 ° C.
As the volatile hydrocarbon oil of the component (B), it has excellent compatibility with the component (A), and even after the volatile hydrocarbon oil volatilizes, it does not feel sticky or stiff. For example, paraffinic hydrocarbon oils such as n-decane, n-undecane and n-dodecane; isoparaffinic hydrocarbon oils such as isodecan, isododecane and hydrogenated polyisobutene; cyclic paraffin hydrocarbon oils such as cyclodecane and cyclododecane. Be done. Of these, a hydrocarbon oil having 8 to 16 carbon atoms is preferable, a hydrocarbon oil having 10 to 16 carbon atoms is more preferable, and a hydrocarbon oil having 12 carbon atoms is further preferable. Among them, isoparaffinic hydrocarbon oil is preferable, isododecane and hydrogenated polyisobutene having 12 carbon atoms are more preferable, and isododecane is further preferable.
Examples of commercially available products include Marcazole R (manufactured by Maruzen Petrochemical Co., Ltd .: flash point 48 ° C.), Pearl Dream 3 (manufactured by NOF Corporation: flash point 61 ° C.), and the like.
成分(B)は、1種又は2種以上を用いることができ、含有量は、成分(A)や(C)の相溶性に優れ、唇や皮膚などに塗布した後、成分(B)が揮発した後でも、ごわついたり、べたついたりせず、唇上などで均一な皮膜を形成し、カップなどへの2次付着が抑制される点から、全組成中に5質量%以上であり、35質量%以上が好ましく、40質量%以上がより好ましく、45質量%以上がさらに好ましく、46質量%以上がよりさらに好ましく、80質量%以下であり、75質量%以下が好ましく、70質量%以下がより好ましく、66質量%以下がさらに好ましい。また、成分(B)の含有量は、全組成中5〜80質量%であり、35〜75質量%が好ましく、40〜75質量%がより好ましく、45〜70質量%がさらに好ましく、46〜66質量%がよりさらに好ましい。 As the component (B), one type or two or more types can be used, and the content is excellent in compatibility with the components (A) and (C), and after being applied to the lips, skin, etc., the component (B) becomes Even after volatilization, it does not become stiff or sticky, forms a uniform film on the lips, etc., and secondary adhesion to cups, etc. is suppressed, so it is 5% by mass or more in the total composition. , 35% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more, further preferably 45% by mass or more, further preferably 46% by mass or more, still more preferably 80% by mass or less, preferably 75% by mass or less, and preferably 70% by mass. The following is more preferable, and 66% by mass or less is further preferable. The content of the component (B) is 5 to 80% by mass in the total composition, preferably 35 to 75% by mass, more preferably 40 to 75% by mass, further preferably 45 to 70% by mass, and 46 to 46 to 70% by mass. 66% by mass is even more preferable.
本発明で用いる成分(C)のエステル油は、25℃で液状のものである。25℃で液状とは、流動性を有するもので、ペースト状のものも含まれる。
かかるエステル油としては、通常の化粧料に用いられるものであれば制限されず、例えば、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ミリスチン酸イソステアリル、リシノレイン酸オクチルドデシル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、モノイソステアリン酸モノミリスチン酸グリセリル、パラメトキシケイ皮酸2−エチルヘキシル、酢酸トコフェロール、モノイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル等が挙げられる。
これらのうち、成分(A)の相溶性に優れ、唇や皮膚などに塗布した後、成分(B)が揮発した後でも、ごわついたり、べたついたりしない点から、分岐鎖を有するエステル油が好ましく、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ミリスチン酸イソステアリル、リシノレイン酸オクチルドデシル、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、モノイソステアリン酸モノミリスチン酸グリセリル、パラメトキシケイ皮酸2−エチルヘキシル、モノイソステアリン酸ジグリセリルがより好ましく、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリルがさらに好ましい。
The ester oil of the component (C) used in the present invention is liquid at 25 ° C. The liquid at 25 ° C. has fluidity, and includes paste-like ones.
The ester oil is not limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, and for example, isotolideyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, isostearyl myristate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, and diisostearate. Examples thereof include diglyceryl acid, glyceryl monomyristate monoisostearate, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxysilicate, tocopherol acetate, diglyceryl monoisostearate and the like.
Of these, ester oil having a branched chain has excellent compatibility with component (A) and does not become stiff or sticky even after component (B) has volatilized after being applied to lips or skin. Ispreferably isotridecyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, isostearyl myristate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, diglyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl monomyristearate, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxysilicate, diglyceryl monoisostearate. Is more preferable, and isotridecyl isononanoate and diisostearyl malate are even more preferable.
成分(C)のエステル油は、1種又は2種以上を用いることができ、含有量は、成分(A)の相溶性に優れ、唇や皮膚などに塗布した後、成分(B)が揮発した後でも、ごわついたり、べたついたりせず、唇上などで均一な皮膜を形成し、カップへの2次付着が抑制される点から、全組成中に5質量%以上であり、7質量%以上が好ましく、10質量%以上がより好ましく、13質量%以上がさらに好ましく、50質量%以下であり、40質量%以下が好ましく、35質量%以下がより好ましく、33質量%以下がさらに好ましい。また、成分(C)の含有量は、全組成中に5〜50質量%であり、7〜40質量%が好ましく、10〜35質量%がより好ましく、13〜33質量%がさらに好ましい。 As the ester oil of the component (C), one type or two or more types can be used, and the content is excellent in compatibility with the component (A), and the component (B) volatilizes after being applied to the lips, skin and the like. Even after this, it does not become stiff or sticky, forms a uniform film on the lips, etc., and secondary adhesion to the cup is suppressed, so it is 5% by mass or more in the total composition, 7 Mass% or more is preferable, 10% by mass or more is more preferable, 13% by mass or more is further preferable, 50% by mass or less, 40% by mass or less is preferable, 35% by mass or less is more preferable, and 33% by mass or less is further preferable. preferable. The content of the component (C) is 5 to 50% by mass, preferably 7 to 40% by mass, more preferably 10 to 35% by mass, and even more preferably 13 to 33% by mass in the total composition.
本発明において、成分(C)に対する成分(B)の質量割合(B)/(C)は、塗布時にごわつきやつっぱり感などを感じず、唇や皮膚などが滑らかであり、塗布直後及び長時間経過後においても、カップへの2次付着が抑制され、水濡れにも強い点、さらに、唇から口紅を落とす時にも、きれいに落とすことができる点から、0.7以上であり、1.0以上が好ましく、1.4以上がより好ましく、9以下であり、7以下が好ましく、5以下がより好ましい。また、成分(C)に対する成分(B)の質量割合(B)/(C)は、0.7〜9あり、1.0〜7が好ましく、1.4〜5がより好ましい。 In the present invention, the mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) does not feel stiff or taut at the time of application, the lips and skin are smooth, and immediately after application and for a long time. Even after the lapse of time, secondary adhesion to the cup is suppressed, it is resistant to getting wet, and even when the lipstick is removed from the lips, it can be removed cleanly, so it is 0.7 or more, 1.0. The above is preferable, 1.4 or more is more preferable, 9 or less is preferable, 7 or less is preferable, and 5 or less is more preferable. The mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) is 0.7 to 9, preferably 1.0 to 7, and more preferably 1.4 to 5.
本発明において、成分(C)に対する成分(A)の質量割合(A)/(C)は、塗布時にごわつきやつっぱり感などを感じず、唇や皮膚などが滑らかであり、塗布直後及び長時間経過後においても、カップなどへの2次付着が抑制され、水濡れにも強い点、さらに、唇や皮膚などから化粧料を落とす時にも、きれいに落とすことができる点から、0.10以上が好ましく、0.12以上がより好ましく、0.14以上がさらに好ましく、1.25以下が好ましく、1.0以下がより好ましく、0.65以下がさらに好ましい。また、成分(C)に対する成分(A)の質量割合(A)/(C)は、0.10〜1.25が好ましく、0.12〜1.0がより好ましく、0.14〜0.65がさらに好ましい。 In the present invention, the mass ratio (A) / (C) of the component (A) to the component (C) does not feel stiff or taut at the time of application, the lips and skin are smooth, and immediately after application and for a long time. Even after the lapse of time, secondary adhesion to cups, etc. is suppressed, it is resistant to getting wet, and even when cosmetics are removed from the lips or skin, it can be removed cleanly. Preferably, 0.12 or more is more preferable, 0.14 or more is further preferable, 1.25 or less is preferable, 1.0 or less is more preferable, and 0.65 or less is further preferable. The mass ratio (A) / (C) of the component (A) to the component (C) is preferably 0.10 to 1.25, more preferably 0.12 to 1.0, and 0.14 to 0. 65 is more preferred.
本発明の油性化粧料は、さらに、(D)有機シリコーン樹脂を含有することができ、化粧料を唇や皮膚などに対して均一に付着させ、密着性を向上させ、耐水性を向上することができる。
成分(D)の有機シリコーン樹脂は、通常化粧料に用いられるものであればいずれのものも使用することができ、例えば、(D−1)トリメチルシロキシケイ酸、(D−2)フッ素変性シリコーン樹脂等が挙げられる。
The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention can further contain (D) an organic silicone resin, so that the cosmetic is uniformly adhered to the lips, skin, etc., the adhesion is improved, and the water resistance is improved. Can be done.
As the organic silicone resin of the component (D), any one usually used for cosmetics can be used, for example, (D-1) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, (D-2) fluorine-modified silicone. Examples include resin.
成分(D)のうち、成分(D−1)トリメチルシロキシケイ酸としては、通常の化粧料に用いられるものであれば制限されず、シロキサン構造を主骨格とした架橋構造を持つ化合物で、[(CH3)3SiO1/2]X[SiO2]Y(Xは1〜3、Yは0.5〜8)で表されるものが好ましい。
成分(D−1)トリメチルシロキシケイ酸は、使用感と化粧持ちの点から、質量平均分子量が1000〜10000のものが好ましく、2000〜9000のものがより好ましく、3000〜6000のものがさらに好ましい。また、その性状は、25℃で液状、ガム状、ペースト状、固体状などのいずれでも良いが、得られる化粧持ちの観点から、固体状のものが好ましい。また、配合性の観点から、溶剤によって希釈された溶液や分散液であること、または、事前に混合して得られる溶液や分散液の状態で使用することも可能である。希釈又は分散させる溶剤としては、ジメチルポリシロキサン、オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、イソドデカンから選ばれる1種又は2種以上が好ましく、揮発性のジメチルポリシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサンがより好ましい。なお、揮発性とは、35〜87℃の引火点を有するものである。
Among the component (D), the component (D-1) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid is not limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, and is a compound having a crosslinked structure having a siloxane structure as a main skeleton. (CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 ] X [SiO 2 ] Y (X is 1 to 3, Y is 0.5 to 8) is preferable.
The component (D-1) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid preferably has a mass average molecular weight of 1000 to 10000, more preferably 2000 to 9000, and even more preferably 3000 to 6000 from the viewpoint of usability and long-lasting makeup. .. Further, the property may be liquid, gum-like, paste-like, solid-like or the like at 25 ° C., but the solid-like property is preferable from the viewpoint of obtaining makeup retention. Further, from the viewpoint of compoundability, it can be used as a solution or dispersion diluted with a solvent, or as a solution or dispersion obtained by mixing in advance. As the solvent to be diluted or dispersed, one or more selected from dimethylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and isododecane are preferable, and volatile dimethylpolysiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane are used. More preferred. The volatility has a flash point of 35 to 87 ° C.
成分(D−1)の市販品としては、予め溶剤に溶解させたもので、KF−7312J(固形分50%デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン溶液)、KF−9021(50%デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン溶液)、X21−5249(50%デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン溶液)(以上、信越化学工業社製)、SS4267(35%ジメチルポリシロキサン溶液)、SR1000(以上、モメンティブ・パフォーマンス・マテリアルズ・ジャパン合同会社製)、BY11−018(30%シクロペンタシロキサン溶液)(東レ・ダウコーニング・シリコーン社製)、BELSIL TMS 803(Wacker Chemie AG社製)等を使用することができる。 Commercially available products of the component (D-1) are those that have been previously dissolved in a solvent, such as KF-7312J (50% solid content decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution) and KF-9021 (50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution). , X21-5249 (50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution) (above, manufactured by Shinetsu Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), SS4267 (35% dimethylpolysiloxane solution), SR1000 (above, manufactured by Momentive Performance Materials Japan GK) , BY11-018 (30% cyclopentasiloxane solution) (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Silicone), BEALSIL TMS 803 (manufactured by Walker Chemie AG), and the like can be used.
成分(D)のうち、成分(D−2)フッ素変性シリコーン樹脂としては、一般式(1)
R1 aSiO(4-a)/2 (1)
(式中、R1は炭素数1〜8の炭化水素基、フェニル基、水酸基又は一般式−R2−Rf(R2は炭素数2〜6の2価のアルキレン基を示し、Rfは炭素数1〜8のパーフルオロアルキル基を示す)であって、水酸基及び一般式−R2−Rfを必須とする官能基から任意に選ばれ、aは平均数で1.0≦a≦1.8である)
で表される構造を有するものが好ましい。
フッ素変性シリコーン樹脂は、皮膚や粉体に対する付着性の点から、分子内にシラノール基を有し、シラノール基中のOH基の割合が、樹脂質量に対して0.1〜5質量%であるのが好ましく、0.5〜5質量%がより好ましい。
成分(D−2)は、25℃で固体のものが好ましく、配合性の観点から、溶剤によって希釈された溶液や分散液であること、または、事前に混合して得られる溶液や分散液の状態で使用することも可能である。希釈又は分散させる溶剤としては、環状シリコーン、ジメチルポリシロキサン等が好ましい。環状シリコーンとしては、オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン(D4)及びデカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン(D5)から選ばれる1種以上に溶解して用いるのが好ましい。
このようなフッ素変性シリコーン樹脂としては、INCI名「トリフルオロプロピルジメチル/トリメチルシロキシシリケート(Trifluoropropyldimethyl/Trimethylsiloxysilicate)」である、XS66−B8226、XS66−C1191、XS66−B8636(以上、モメンティブ・パフォーマンス・マテリアルズ社製)等の市販品を用いることができる。
Of the component (D), the component (D-2) fluorine-modified silicone resin has the general formula (1).
R 1 a SiO (4-a) / 2 (1)
(In the formula, R 1 represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a hydroxyl group or a general formula −R 2 −Rf (R 2 represents a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and Rf is a carbon. a number indicating the 1-8 perfluoroalkyl group), an arbitrarily chosen a hydroxyl group and the general formula -R 2 -Rf from the functional groups as an essential, 1.0 ≦ a ≦ 1 a is an average number. 8)
Those having a structure represented by are preferable.
The fluorine-modified silicone resin has a silanol group in the molecule from the viewpoint of adhesion to the skin and powder, and the ratio of the OH group in the silanol group is 0.1 to 5% by mass with respect to the resin mass. Is preferable, and 0.5 to 5% by mass is more preferable.
The component (D-2) is preferably a solid at 25 ° C., and from the viewpoint of compoundability, it may be a solution or dispersion diluted with a solvent, or a solution or dispersion obtained by mixing in advance. It can also be used in the state. As the solvent to be diluted or dispersed, cyclic silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane and the like are preferable. As the cyclic silicone, it is preferable to dissolve it in one or more selected from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5).
Examples of such a fluorine-modified silicone resin include XS66-B8226, XS66-C1191 and XS66-B8636 (hereinafter, Momentive Performance Materials), which have INCI names of "Trifluoropropyldimethyl / Trimethylsiloxysilicate". Commercially available products such as (manufactured by the company) can be used.
成分(D)の有機シリコーン樹脂は、1種又は2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、含有量は、化粧料を唇や皮膚などに対して均一に付着させ、密着性を向上させる点、また、耐水性に優れる点から、全組成中に0.01質量%以上が好ましく、0.2質量%以上がより好ましく、0.5質量%以上がさらに好ましく、1質量%以上がよりさらに好ましく、25質量%以下が好ましく、20質量%以下がより好ましく、15質量%以下がさらに好ましく、13質量%以下がよりさらに好ましい。また、成分(D)の含有量は、全組成中に0.01〜25質量%が好ましく、0.2〜20質量%がより好ましく、0.5〜15質量%がさらに好ましく、1〜13質量%がよりさらに好ましい。 The organic silicone resin of the component (D) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is such that the cosmetic is uniformly adhered to the lips, the skin, etc., and the adhesion is improved. Further, from the viewpoint of excellent water resistance, 0.01% by mass or more is preferable, 0.2% by mass or more is more preferable, 0.5% by mass or more is further preferable, and 1% by mass or more is more preferable in the total composition. , 25% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or less, further preferably 15% by mass or less, still more preferably 13% by mass or less. The content of the component (D) is preferably 0.01 to 25% by mass, more preferably 0.2 to 20% by mass, further preferably 0.5 to 15% by mass, and 1 to 13 in the total composition. Mass% is even more preferred.
本発明において、成分(D)に対する成分(A)の質量割合(A)/(D)は、塗布直後及び長時間経過後においても、カップなどへの2次付着が抑制され、水濡れにも強く、さらに、唇や皮膚から化粧料を落とすときにも、きれいに落とすことができる点から、0.05以上が好ましく、0.2以上がより好ましく、0.3以上がさらに好ましく、0.5以上がよりさらに好ましく、40以下が好ましく、20以下がより好ましく、12以下がさらに好ましく、10以下がよりさらに好ましい。また、成分(D)に対する成分(A)の質量割合(A)/(D)は、0.05〜40が好ましく、0.2〜20がより好ましく、0.3〜12がさらに好ましく、0.5〜10がよりさらに好ましい。 In the present invention, the mass ratio (A) / (D) of the component (A) to the component (D) suppresses secondary adhesion to the cup or the like immediately after application and after a long period of time, and is also wet with water. It is strong, and when removing cosmetics from the lips and skin, it can be removed cleanly, so 0.05 or more is preferable, 0.2 or more is more preferable, 0.3 or more is further preferable, and 0.5 or more. The above is even more preferable, 40 or less is preferable, 20 or less is more preferable, 12 or less is further preferable, and 10 or less is even more preferable. The mass ratio (A) / (D) of the component (A) to the component (D) is preferably 0.05 to 40, more preferably 0.2 to 20, further preferably 0.3 to 12, and 0. .5-10 is even more preferred.
さらに、本発明の油性化粧料は、25℃で固形のワックスを含有することができる。25℃で固形とは、25℃において固体の性状を示し、融点が61℃以上のものを指す。
25℃で固形のワックスとしては、通常の化粧料に用いられるものであれば制限されず、例えば、オゾケライト、セレシン等の鉱物系ワックス;パラフィン、マイクロクリスタリンワックス等の石油系ワックス;フィッシャー・トロプシュワックス、ポリエチレンワックス等の合成炭化水素;カルナウバロウ、キャンデリラロウ、ライスワックス、木ロウ、サンフラワーワックス等の植物系ワックス;ミツロウ、鯨ロウ等の動物性ワックス;シリコーンワックス、合成ミツロウ等の合成ワックスなどが挙げられる。
Furthermore, the oily cosmetics of the present invention can contain a solid wax at 25 ° C. A solid at 25 ° C. refers to a solid showing properties at 25 ° C. and having a melting point of 61 ° C. or higher.
The wax solid at 25 ° C. is not limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, and is not limited, for example, mineral waxes such as ozokelite and selecin; petroleum waxes such as paraffin and microcrystallin wax; Fisher Tropsch wax. , Synthetic hydrocarbons such as polyethylene wax; Vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, wood wax, sunflower wax; Animal waxes such as beeswax and whale wax; Synthetic waxes such as silicone wax and synthetic beeswax Can be mentioned.
25℃で固形のワックスは、油性化粧料に適度な硬さを付与し、油の染み出し抑制、潤いを付与する点から、融点65℃以上、140℃以下が好ましく、70℃以上、90℃以下がより好ましい。また、滑らかな使用感を付与する点から、融点が90℃を超えるワックスを含まないことが好ましい。 The wax solid at 25 ° C. gives the oily cosmetics an appropriate hardness, suppresses oil seepage, and imparts moisture. Therefore, the melting point is preferably 65 ° C. or higher and 140 ° C. or lower, and 70 ° C. or higher and 90 ° C. The following is more preferable. Further, it is preferable not to contain wax having a melting point exceeding 90 ° C. from the viewpoint of imparting a smooth feeling of use.
また、25℃で固形のワックスは、油性化粧料に適度な硬さを付与し、油の染み出し抑制、潤いを付与する点から、25℃での針入度が1以上、150以下であるのが好ましく、15以上、110以下がより好ましい。
ここで、針入度は、25±0.1℃に保ったワックスの試料に、規定の針(針の質量2.5±0.02g、針保持具の質量47.5±0.02g、おもりの質量50±0.05g)が、5秒間に針入する長さを測定し、その針入距離(mm)を10倍した値を針入度とするものであり、JIS K−2235−5.4(1991年)に準じて測定した値である。
Further, the wax solid at 25 ° C. imparts an appropriate hardness to the oil-based cosmetics, suppresses oil seepage, and imparts moisture. Therefore, the degree of needle penetration at 25 ° C. is 1 or more and 150 or less. Is preferable, and 15 or more and 110 or less are more preferable.
Here, the degree of needle insertion was such that the specified needle (needle mass 2.5 ± 0.02 g, needle holder mass 47.5 ± 0.02 g) was applied to the wax sample maintained at 25 ± 0.1 ° C. (Mass of weight 50 ± 0.05 g) measures the length of needle insertion in 5 seconds, and the value obtained by multiplying the needle insertion distance (mm) by 10 is used as the needle insertion degree. JIS K-2235- It is a value measured according to 5.4 (1991).
25℃での針入度が1以上、150以下の固形のワックスとしては、鉱物系ワックス、石油系ワックス及び合成炭化水素が挙げられる。なかでも、外観色のくすみを抑制し、塗布膜の持続性、潤いの性能が高い点から、針入度が15以上、110以下のマイクロクリスタリンワックス、パラフィンワックスが好ましく、針入度が15以上、110以下のマイクロクリスタリンワックスがより好ましい。また、25℃での針入度が、25以上、80以下のマイクロクリスタリンワックスであることが好ましい。
これらのワックスは、市販品を使用することができ、例えば、マイクロクリスタリンワックスとして、Multiwax W−445、W−835(以上、SONNEBORN社製)、Paracera M(Paramelt社製)、Hi−Mic−1045、1070、2045(以上、日本精鑞社製)、精製マイクロクリスタリンワックス(日興リカ社製)、155°マイクロワックス(日本石油社製)等が挙げられる。
針入度が15以上のマイクロクリスタリンワックスは、滑らかな使用感、塗布時の艶を付与する点から、25℃で固形のワックス中に50質量%以上含まれるのが好ましく、70質量%以上含まれるのがより好ましい。
Examples of the solid wax having a needle insertion degree of 1 or more and 150 or less at 25 ° C. include mineral wax, petroleum wax and synthetic hydrocarbon. Among them, microcrystalline wax and paraffin wax having a needle insertion degree of 15 or more and 110 or less are preferable, and a needle insertion degree of 15 or more is preferable because the dullness of the appearance color is suppressed, the durability of the coating film and the moisturizing performance are high. , 110 or less microcrystalline wax is more preferred. Further, it is preferable that the microcrystalline wax has a needle insertion degree of 25 or more and 80 or less at 25 ° C.
Commercially available products can be used as these waxes. For example, as microcrystalline wax, Multiwax W-445, W-835 (all manufactured by SONNEBORN), Paracera M (manufactured by Paramelt), Hi-Mic-1045. Examples thereof include 1070 and 2045 (all manufactured by Nippon Seiro Co., Ltd.), refined microcrystalline wax (manufactured by Nikko Rika Co., Ltd.), and 155 ° microwax (manufactured by Nippon Petroleum Co., Ltd.).
The microcrystalline wax having a needle insertion degree of 15 or more is preferably contained in a solid wax at 25 ° C. in an amount of 50% by mass or more, preferably 70% by mass or more, from the viewpoint of giving a smooth feeling of use and gloss at the time of application. Is more preferable.
25℃で固形のワックスは、1種又は2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、含有量は、唇上などでの化粧料のよれを抑制する点から、全組成中に5質量%未満であるのが好ましく、3質量%以下がより好ましく、1質量%以下がさらに好ましく、0.5質量%以下がよりさらに好ましい。 The wax solid at 25 ° C. can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is less than 5% by mass in the total composition from the viewpoint of suppressing the kinking of the cosmetic on the lips and the like. It is preferably 3% by mass or less, further preferably 1% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.5% by mass or less.
さらに、本発明の油性化粧料は、粉体を含有することができる。かかる粉体としては、通常の化粧料に用いられるものであれば制限されず、体質顔料、着色顔料、光輝性顔料等を用いることができる。
体質顔料としては、例えば、ケイ酸、無水ケイ酸、ケイ酸マグネシウム、タルク、セリサイト、マイカ、合成マイカ、ガラスフレーク、合成金雲母、カオリン、クレー、ベントナイト、オキシ塩化ビスマス、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化マグネシウム、酸化アルミニウム、硫酸カルシウム、硫酸バリウム、硫酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、炭酸マグネシウム等の無機顔料及びこれらの複合粉体が挙げられる。
Furthermore, the oily cosmetics of the present invention can contain powders. The powder is not limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, and extender pigments, coloring pigments, brilliant pigments and the like can be used.
Examples of extender pigments include silicic acid, silicic anhydride, magnesium silicate, talc, sericite, mica, synthetic mica, glass flakes, synthetic phlogopite, kaolin, clay, bentonite, bismuth oxychloride, zirconium oxide, and magnesium oxide. , Inorganic pigments such as aluminum oxide, calcium sulfate, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and composite powders thereof.
着色顔料としては、例えば、酸化チタン、酸化亜鉛、黄酸化鉄、ベンガラ、黒酸化鉄、紺青、群青、酸化クロム、水酸化クロム等の金属酸化物;マンガンバイオレット、チタン酸コバルト等の金属錯体;更にカーボンブラック等の無機顔料;赤色3号、赤色104号、赤色106号、赤色201号、赤色202号、赤色204号、赤色205号、赤色220号、赤色226号、赤色227号、赤色228号、赤色230号、赤色401号、赤色405号、赤色505号、橙色203号、橙色204号、橙色205号、黄色4号、黄色5号、黄色401号、青色1号、青色404号等の合成有機顔料;β−カロチン、カラメル、パプリカ色素等の天然有機色素などが挙げられる。 Examples of the coloring pigment include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, dark blue, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, and chromium hydroxide; and metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate; Furthermore, inorganic pigments such as carbon black; Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228. No., Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 405, Red No. 505, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 401, Blue No. 1, Blue No. 404, etc. Synthetic organic pigments; natural organic pigments such as β-carotene, caramel, and paprika pigments.
光輝性顔料としては、雲母、合成金雲母、ガラス、シリカ、アルミナ等の板状粉体等の表面を酸化チタン、酸化鉄、酸化ケイ素、紺青、酸化クロム、酸化スズ、水酸化クロム、金、銀、カルミン、有機顔料等の着色剤で被覆したものなど、及びポリエチレンテレフタレート・ポリメチルメタクリレート積層末、ポリエチレンテレフタレート・アルミ蒸着末、ポリエチレンテレフタレート・金蒸着積層末などの、フィルム原反を任意形状に断裁したものなどを用いることができる。
これらの粉体は、通常の方法により、撥水処理、撥水・撥油化処理等の各種表面処理を施したものを用いることもできる。
Examples of bright pigments include titanium oxide, iron oxide, silicon oxide, dark blue, chromium oxide, tin oxide, chromium hydroxide, and gold on the surface of plate-like powders such as mica, synthetic gold mica, glass, silica, and alumina. Film raw fabrics such as those coated with colorants such as silver, carmine, and organic pigments, polyethylene terephthalate / polymethylmethacrylate laminated powder, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum vapor deposition powder, polyethylene terephthalate / gold vapor deposition laminated powder, etc. can be made into arbitrary shapes. Cut or the like can be used.
As these powders, those which have been subjected to various surface treatments such as water repellent treatment and water repellent / oil repellent treatment by a usual method can also be used.
粉体は、1種又は2種以上を用いることができ、含有量は、全組成中に0.01質量%以上が好ましく、0.05質量%以上がより好ましく、20質量%以下が好ましく、10質量%以下がより好ましい。また、粉体の含有量は、全組成中に0.01〜20質量%が好ましく、0.05〜10質量%がより好ましい。 As the powder, one kind or two or more kinds can be used, and the content is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, and preferably 20% by mass or less in the total composition. More preferably, it is 10% by mass or less. The powder content is preferably 0.01 to 20% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 10% by mass in the total composition.
さらに、本発明の油性化粧料は、前記成分以外に、通常の化粧料に用いられる成分、例えば、成分(B)及び(C)以外の油性成分、界面活性剤、低級アルコール、多価アルコール、成分(A)及び(D)以外の高分子化合物、紫外線吸収剤、酸化防止剤、染料、香料、色材、防汚剤、保湿剤、水等を含有することができる。 Further, in the oily cosmetics of the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned components, components used in ordinary cosmetics, for example, oily components other than the components (B) and (C), surfactants, lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, etc. It can contain polymer compounds other than the components (A) and (D), ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, dyes, fragrances, coloring materials, antifouling agents, moisturizers, water and the like.
本発明の油性化粧料は、通常の方法により製造することができ、その剤型としては、固形、半固形、ゲル、液状等のいずれでも良い。 The oily cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a usual method, and the dosage form may be solid, semi-solid, gel, liquid or the like.
本発明の油性化粧料は、塗布時の伸ばしやすさの点から、25℃におけるせん断速度0.1s-1 のとき、バルク全体のせん断粘度が1500Pa・s 以下であり、900Pa・s以下であるのが好ましく、500Pa・s以下であるのがより好ましく、250Pa・s以下であるのがさらに好ましく、200Pa・s以下であるのがよりさらに好ましく、10Pa・s以上であるのが好ましく、20Pa・s以上であるのがより好ましく、30Pa・s以上であるのがさらに好ましい。また、25℃におけるせん断速度0.1s-1 のとき、バルク全体のせん断粘度が、10〜900Pa・s であるのが好ましく、20〜500Pa・s であるのがより好ましく、20〜250Pa・s であるのがさらに好ましく、30〜200Pa・s であるのがよりさらに好ましい。
せん断粘度は、レオメーターにより測定する。冶具はφ25mm。せん断速度が0.1s-1 のときのせん断粘度を読み取り、測定される。具体的には、調整したバルクを、レオメーター(MCR301;アントンパール社製)により測定する。冶具はφ25mm。せん断速度が0.1s-1 のときのせん断粘度を読み取り、測定される。
The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention has a shear viscosity of 1500 Pa · s or less and 900 Pa · s or less when the shear rate is 0.1 s -1 at 25 ° C. from the viewpoint of ease of stretching at the time of application. It is preferably 500 Pa · s or less, more preferably 250 Pa · s or less, further preferably 200 Pa · s or less, preferably 10 Pa · s or more, and 20 Pa · s or less. It is more preferably s or more, and further preferably 30 Pa · s or more. Further, when the shear rate at 25 ° C. is 0.1 s -1 , the shear viscosity of the entire bulk is preferably 10 to 900 Pa · s, more preferably 20 to 500 Pa · s, and 20 to 250 Pa · s. Is even more preferable, and 30 to 200 Pa · s is even more preferable.
Shear viscosity is measured with a rheometer. The jig is φ25 mm. The shear viscosity when the shear rate is 0.1 s -1 is read and measured. Specifically, the adjusted bulk is measured with a rheometer (MCR301; manufactured by Anton Pearl Co., Ltd.). The jig is φ25 mm. The shear viscosity when the shear rate is 0.1 s -1 is read and measured.
本発明の油性化粧料は、油剤を連続相とする化粧料であり、皮膚、口唇、睫毛、爪、毛髪に使用され、好ましくは、口唇に使用される。口紅、リップグロス、リップライナー等の口唇化粧料;マスカラ、アイライナー、アイシャドウ、チークカラー、ファンデーション、コンシーラー等のメイクアップ化粧料;クリーム、乳液、美容液、マッサージ剤、デオドラント、サンスクリーン、育毛剤、ヘアカラー、ヘアワックス、ヘアフォームなどとすることができる。中でも、口紅、リップグロス、リップライナーから選ばれる口唇化粧料として好適である。 The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic having an oil agent as a continuous phase, and is used for skin, lips, eyelashes, nails, and hair, and preferably for lips. Lip cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner; Makeup cosmetics such as mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow, teak color, foundation, concealer; cream, milky lotion, serum, massage agent, deodorant, sunscreen, hair growth It can be an agent, hair color, hair wax, hair foam, etc. Above all, it is suitable as a lip cosmetic selected from lipstick, lip gloss, and lip liner.
本発明の油性化粧料は、化粧料塗布用具を用いて、皮膚、口唇、睫毛、爪、毛髪等の適用部位に使用するのが好ましい。 The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is preferably used on the application site such as skin, lips, eyelashes, nails, and hair by using a cosmetic application tool.
本発明の油性化粧料は、化粧料塗布用具で、取り出す容器に収納された形態であることが好ましく、取り出す容器が、ボトル容器、ジャー容器、チューブ容器がより好ましく、中でも使用時の液だれを抑制する点から、ボトル容器、チューブ容器がさらに好ましい。 The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic application tool, preferably in the form of being stored in a container to be taken out, and the container to be taken out is more preferably a bottle container, a jar container, or a tube container, and above all, dripping during use. From the viewpoint of suppressing, bottle containers and tube containers are more preferable.
容器に収納された油性化粧料を取り出す化粧料塗布用具は、化粧料を塗布する為の塗布面を有し、先端に該塗布部を連結した支持軸を有している。具体的には、チップ、スポンジ、パフ、筆等が挙げられる。なかでも、化粧料を塗布する為の塗布面を有し、かつ錐状、扁平体からなる塗布部と、先端に該塗布部を連結した支持軸とを有している化粧料塗布用具が、初期の使用時から塗布用具への取れ性、唇や皮膚等への塗りやすさの点から好ましい。 The cosmetic application tool for taking out the oily cosmetic stored in the container has a coating surface for applying the cosmetic, and has a support shaft having the coating portion connected to the tip. Specific examples include chips, sponges, puffs, and brushes. Among them, a cosmetic application tool having a coating surface for applying cosmetics and having a coating portion made of a cone-shaped or flat body and a support shaft having the coating portion connected to the tip thereof. It is preferable from the viewpoint of easy removal to application tools and ease of application to lips, skin, etc. from the initial use.
本発明の油性化粧料は、取り出し用の化粧料塗布用具を備える化粧料容器に収納された形態であることで、初期の使用時から塗布用具への取れ性に優れる。特に、使用後に容器内に残る化粧料の残留が少ない点から、化粧料塗布用具が化粧料にどぶづけされているディッピング容器がより好ましい。
上述した実施形態に関し、本発明は、更に以下の組成物を開示する。
Since the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is stored in a cosmetic container provided with a cosmetic application tool for taking out, it is excellent in ease of removal into the application tool from the initial use. In particular, a dipping container in which the cosmetic application tool is bumped against the cosmetic is more preferable because the amount of the cosmetic remaining in the container after use is small.
With respect to the embodiments described above, the present invention further discloses the following compositions.
<1>次の成分(A)、(B)及び(C):
(A)主鎖にセルロース骨格を有し、全水酸基の45〜95mol%が基−O-M-R(MはCH2又はカルボニル基C=Oを示し、Rは炭素数3〜40の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基を示す)で置換されているセルロース誘導体 1〜50質量%、
(B)揮発性の炭化水素油 5〜80質量%、
(C)25℃で液状のエステル油 5〜50質量%
を含有し、成分(C)に対する成分(B)の質量割合(B)/(C)が、0.7〜9であり、25℃におけるせん断速度0.1s-1 のとき、バルク全体のせん断粘度が1500Pa・s 以下である油性化粧料。
<1> The following components (A), (B) and (C):
(A) It has a cellulose skeleton in the main chain, and 45 to 95 mol% of all hydroxyl groups is a group-OM-R (M represents CH 2 or a carbonyl group C = O, and R is a direct chain having 3 to 40 carbon atoms. 1 to 50% by mass of cellulose derivative substituted with (indicating an alkyl or alkenyl group) of the chain or branched chain,
(B) Volatile hydrocarbon oil 5-80% by mass,
(C) Ester oil liquid at 25 ° C. 5 to 50% by mass
When the mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) is 0.7 to 9 and the shear rate at 25 ° C. is 0.1 s -1 , the shear of the entire bulk is carried out. An oil-based cosmetic having a viscosity of 1500 Pa · s or less.
<2>成分(A)のセルロース誘導体において、原料セルロース誘導体が、好ましくは、以下の構成単位 <2> In the cellulose derivative of the component (A), the raw material cellulose derivative is preferably the following constituent unit.
(式中、R'は炭素数2〜8の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキレン基を示し、nはグルコース単位当たりのR'Oの平均付加モル数が0.1〜10となる数を示す)
を有するものであって、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースがより好ましく、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースが更に好ましい前記<1>記載の油性化粧料。
(In the formula, R'indicates a linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and n indicates a number in which the average number of moles of R'O added per glucose unit is 0.1 to 10.)
The oil-based cosmetics according to <1>, wherein hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose are more preferable, and hydroxypropyl cellulose is more preferable.
<3>成分(A)において、原料セルロース誘導体の水酸基の置換基である基−O−M−RのRが、好ましくは、炭素数9〜21の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基であって、炭素数11〜17がより好ましく、炭素数15が更に好ましい前記<1>又は<2>記載の油性化粧料。
<4>成分(A)において、水酸基の基−O−M−R置換率が、好ましくは、48mol%以上であって、51mol%以上がより好ましく、94mol%以下が好ましく、92mol%以下がより好ましく、66mol%以下が更に好ましい前記<1>〜<3>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<5>成分(A)において、水酸基の残留率は、好ましくは、5mol%以上であって、6mol%以上がより好ましく、8mol%以上がさらに好ましく、34mol%以上がよりさらに好ましく、55mol%以下が好ましく、52mol%以下がより好ましく、49mol%以下がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<4>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<3> In the component (A), the R of the group -O-M-R, which is a substituent of the hydroxyl group of the raw material cellulose derivative, is preferably a linear or branched alkyl group or alkenyl group having 9 to 21 carbon atoms. The oily cosmetic according to <1> or <2>, wherein the number of carbon atoms is more preferably 11 to 17, and the number of carbon atoms is more preferably 15.
<4> In the component (A), the group-OMR substitution rate of the hydroxyl group is preferably 48 mol% or more, more preferably 51 mol% or more, preferably 94 mol% or less, and more preferably 92 mol% or less. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <3>, preferably 66 mol% or less.
<5> In the component (A), the residual ratio of the hydroxyl group is preferably 5 mol% or more, more preferably 6 mol% or more, further preferably 8 mol% or more, still more preferably 34 mol% or more, and 55 mol% or less. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <4>, wherein 52 mol% or less is more preferable, and 49 mol% or less is further preferable.
<6>成分(A)のセルロース誘導体の質量平均分子量が、好ましくは、10万以上であって、20万以上がより好ましく、30万以上が更に好ましく、50万以上がより更に好ましく、500万以下が好ましく、400万以下がより好ましく、300万以下が更に好ましく、200万以下がより更に好ましい前記<1>〜<5>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<7>成分(A)が、好ましくは、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースベヘン酸エステルであって、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステルがより好ましい前記<1>〜<6>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<8>成分(A)の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に1.5質量%以上であって、2質量%以上がより好ましく、3質量%以上がさらに好ましく、30質量%以下が好ましく、20質量%以下がより好ましく、15質量%以下がさらに好ましく、10質量%以下がよりさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<7>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<6> The mass average molecular weight of the cellulose derivative of the component (A) is preferably 100,000 or more, more preferably 200,000 or more, further preferably 300,000 or more, further preferably 500,000 or more, and further preferably 5 million. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <5>, wherein the following is preferable, 4 million or less is more preferable, 3 million or less is further preferable, and 2 million or less is further preferable.
<7> The component (A) is preferably a hydroxypropyl cellulose laurate ester, a hydroxypropyl cellulose myristic acid ester, a hydroxypropyl cellulose palmitic acid ester, a hydroxypropyl cellulose stearic acid ester, or a hydroxypropyl cellulose bechenic acid ester. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <6>, wherein the hydroxypropyl cellulose palmitic acid ester is more preferable.
<8> The content of the component (A) is preferably 1.5% by mass or more, more preferably 2% by mass or more, further preferably 3% by mass or more, and 30% by mass or less in the total composition. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <7>, preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 15% by mass or less, still more preferably 10% by mass or less.
<9>成分(B)が、好ましくは、35〜87℃の引火点を有するものである前記<1>〜<8>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<10>成分(B)が、好ましくは、炭素数8〜16の炭化水素油であって、炭素数10〜16の炭化水素油がより好ましく、炭素数12の炭化水素油がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<9>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<11>成分(B)が、好ましくは、イソパラフィン系炭化水素油であって、イソドデカン、炭素数12の水添ポリイソブテンがより好ましく、イソドデカンがさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<10>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<12>成分(B)の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に35質量%以上であって、40質量%以上がより好ましく、45質量%以上がさらに好ましく、46質量%以上がよりさらに好ましく、75質量%以下が好ましく、70質量%以下がより好ましく、66質量%以下がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<11>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<9> The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <8>, wherein the component (B) preferably has a flash point of 35 to 87 ° C.
<10> The component (B) is preferably a hydrocarbon oil having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably a hydrocarbon oil having 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and further preferably a hydrocarbon oil having 12 carbon atoms. The oily cosmetic according to any one of 1> to <9>.
<11> The component (B) is preferably an isoparaffin-based hydrocarbon oil, more preferably isododecane and hydrogenated polyisobutene having 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably isododecane, any one of the above <1> to <10>. The listed oily cosmetics.
<12> The content of the component (B) is preferably 35% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more, further preferably 45% by mass or more, still more preferably 46% by mass or more in the total composition. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <11>, preferably 75% by mass or less, more preferably 70% by mass or less, and further preferably 66% by mass or less.
<13>成分(C)のエステル油が、好ましくは、分岐鎖を有するエステル油であって、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ミリスチン酸イソステアリル、リシノレイン酸オクチルドデシル、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、モノイソステアリン酸モノミリスチン酸グリセリル、パラメトキシケイ皮酸2−エチルヘキシル、モノイソステアリン酸ジグリセリルがより好ましく、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリルがさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<12>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<14>成分(C)の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に7質量%以上であって、10質量%以上がより好ましく、13質量%以上がさらに好ましく、40質量%以下が好ましく、35質量%以下がより好ましく、33質量%以下がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<13>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<13> The ester oil of the component (C) is preferably an ester oil having a branched chain, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, isostearyl malistate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, diglyceryl diisostearate, Glyceryl monomyristearate, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxysilicate, and diglyceryl monoisostearate are more preferable, and isotridecyl isononanoate and diisostearyl malate are more preferable. Any one of <1> to <12> above. The listed oily cosmetics.
<14> The content of the component (C) is preferably 7% by mass or more, more preferably 10% by mass or more, further preferably 13% by mass or more, and preferably 40% by mass or less in the total composition. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <13>, wherein 35% by mass or less is more preferable, and 33% by mass or less is further preferable.
<15>成分(C)に対する成分(B)の質量割合(B)/(C)が、好ましくは、1.0以上であって、1.4以上がより好ましく、7以下が好ましく、5以下がより好ましい前記<1>〜<14>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<16>成分(C)に対する成分(A)の質量割合(A)/(C)が、好ましくは、0.10以上であって、0.12以上がより好ましく、0.14以上がさらに好ましく、1.25以下が好ましく、1.0以下がより好ましく、0.65以下がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<15>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<15> The mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) is preferably 1.0 or more, more preferably 1.4 or more, preferably 7 or less, and 5 or less. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <14>, which is more preferable.
<16> The mass ratio (A) / (C) of the component (A) to the component (C) is preferably 0.10 or more, more preferably 0.12 or more, still more preferably 0.14 or more. , 1.25 or less, more preferably 1.0 or less, still more preferably 0.65 or less. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <15>.
<17>さらに、(D)有機シリコーン樹脂を含有する前記<1>〜<16>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<18>成分(D)が、好ましくは、(D−1)トリメチルシロキシケイ酸であって、シロキサン構造を主骨格とした架橋構造を持つ化合物で、[(CH3)3SiO1/2]X[SiO2]Y(Xは1〜3、Yは0.5〜8)で表されるものがより好ましい前記<17>記載の油性化粧料。
<19>(D−1)トリメチルシロキシケイ酸が、好ましくは、質量平均分子量が1000〜10000のものであって、2000〜9000のものがより好ましく、3000〜6000のものがさらに好ましい前記<18>記載の油性化粧料。
<17> The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <16>, which further contains (D) an organic silicone resin.
<18> The component (D) is preferably (D-1) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, which is a compound having a crosslinked structure having a siloxane structure as a main skeleton [(CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 ]. The oil-based cosmetic according to <17>, more preferably represented by X [SiO 2 ] Y (X is 1 to 3, Y is 0.5 to 8).
<19> (D-1) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid preferably has a mass average molecular weight of 1000 to 10000, more preferably 2000 to 9000, and even more preferably 3000 to 6000. > The listed oily cosmetics.
<20>成分(D)が、好ましくは、(D−2)フッ素変性シリコーン樹脂であって、一般式(1)
R1 aSiO(4-a)/2 (1)
(式中、R1は炭素数1〜8の炭化水素基、フェニル基、水酸基又は一般式−R2−Rf(R2は炭素数2〜6の2価のアルキレン基を示し、Rfは炭素数1〜8のパーフルオロアルキル基を示す)であって、水酸基及び一般式−R2−Rfを必須とする官能基から任意に選ばれ、aは平均数で1.0≦a≦1.8である)
で表される構造を有するものがより好ましい前記<17>記載の油性化粧料。
<21>(D−2)フッ素変性シリコーン樹脂が、好ましくは、分子内にシラノール基を有し、シラノール基中のOH基の割合が、樹脂質量に対して0.1〜5質量%であって、0.5〜5質量%がより好ましい前記<20>記載の油性化粧料。
<20> The component (D) is preferably (D-2) a fluorine-modified silicone resin, and has a general formula (1).
R 1 a SiO (4-a) / 2 (1)
(In the formula, R 1 represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a hydroxyl group or a general formula −R 2 −Rf (R 2 represents a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and Rf is a carbon. a number indicating the 1-8 perfluoroalkyl group), an arbitrarily chosen a hydroxyl group and the general formula -R 2 -Rf from the functional groups as an essential, 1.0 ≦ a ≦ 1 a is an average number. 8)
The oil-based cosmetic according to <17>, which is more preferably having a structure represented by.
<21> (D-2) The fluorine-modified silicone resin preferably has a silanol group in the molecule, and the ratio of the OH group in the silanol group is 0.1 to 5% by mass with respect to the resin mass. The oily cosmetic according to <20>, wherein 0.5 to 5% by mass is more preferable.
<22>成分(D)の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に0.01質量%以上であって、0.2質量%以上がより好ましく、0.5質量%以上がさらに好ましく、1質量%以上がよりさらに好ましく、25質量%以下が好ましく、20質量%以下がより好ましく、15質量%以下がさらに好ましく、13質量%以下がよりさらに好ましい前記<17>〜<21>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<23>成分(D)に対する成分(A)の質量割合(A)/(D)が、好ましくは、0.05以上であって、0.2以上がより好ましく、0.3以上がさらに好ましく、0.5以上がよりさらに好ましく、40以下が好ましく、20以下がより好ましく、12以下がさらに好ましく、10以下がよりさらに好ましい前記<17>〜<22>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<22> The content of the component (D) is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.2% by mass or more, still more preferably 0.5% by mass or more in the total composition. Any of the above <17> to <21>, more preferably mass% or more, preferably 25% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or less, further preferably 15% by mass or less, still more preferably 13% by mass or less. 1 The oily cosmetics described.
<23> The mass ratio (A) / (D) of the component (A) to the component (D) is preferably 0.05 or more, more preferably 0.2 or more, still more preferably 0.3 or more. , 0.5 or more is more preferable, 40 or less is preferable, 20 or less is more preferable, 12 or less is further preferable, and 10 or less is more preferable. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <17> to <22>. ..
<24>さらに、25℃で固形のワックスを含有し、ワックスは、融点65℃以上、140℃以下が好ましく、70℃以上、90℃以下がより好ましい前記<1>〜<23>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<25>25℃で固形のワックスが、好ましくは、25℃での針入度が1以上、150以下であって、15以上、110以下がより好ましく、針入度が1以上、150以下のマイクロクリスタリンワックス、パラフィンワックスがさらに好ましく、針入度が1以上、150以下のマイクロクリスタリンワックスがよりさらに好ましい前記<24>記載の油性化粧料。
<26>25℃で固形のワックスの含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に5質量%未満であって、3質量%以下がより好ましく、1質量%以下がさらに好ましく、0.5質量%以下がよりさらに好ましい前記<24>又は<25>記載の油性化粧料。
<27>さらに、粉体を含有し、粉体は、体質顔料、着色顔料、光輝性顔料が好ましい前記<1>〜<26>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<28>粉体の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に0.01質量%以上であって、0.05質量%以上がより好ましく、20質量%以下が好ましく、10質量%以下がより好ましい前記<27>記載の油性化粧料。
<24> Further, a solid wax is contained at 25 ° C., and the wax preferably has a melting point of 65 ° C. or higher and 140 ° C. or lower, more preferably 70 ° C. or higher and 90 ° C. or lower, any of the above <1> to <23>. 1 The oily cosmetics described.
<25> A wax solid at 25 ° C. preferably has a needle insertion degree of 1 or more and 150 or less, more preferably 15 or more and 110 or less, and a needle insertion degree of 1 or more and 150 or less. The oil-based cosmetic according to <24>, wherein microcrystalline wax and paraffin wax are more preferable, and microcrystalline wax having a needle insertion degree of 1 or more and 150 or less is even more preferable.
<26> The content of the wax solid at 25 ° C. is preferably less than 5% by mass, more preferably 3% by mass or less, still more preferably 1% by mass or less, and 0.5% by mass in the total composition. The oily cosmetic according to <24> or <25>, wherein the following is even more preferable.
<27> The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <26>, which further contains a powder, and the powder is preferably an extender pigment, a coloring pigment, or a brilliant pigment.
<28> The content of the powder is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, preferably 20% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less in the total composition. The oily cosmetic according to <27>, which is preferable.
<29>25℃におけるせん断速度0.1s-1 のとき、バルク全体のせん断粘度が、好ましくは、900Pa・s以下であって、500Pa・s以下であるのがより好ましく、250Pa・s以下であるのがさらに好ましく、200Pa・s以下であるのがよりさらに好ましく、10Pa・s以上であるのが好ましく、20Pa・s以上であるのがより好ましく、30Pa・s以上であるのがさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<28>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<30>口唇化粧料である前記<1>〜<29>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料。
<29> When the shear rate at 25 ° C. is 0.1 s -1 , the shear viscosity of the entire bulk is preferably 900 Pa · s or less, more preferably 500 Pa · s or less, and 250 Pa · s or less. It is more preferably 200 Pa · s or less, more preferably 10 Pa · s or more, more preferably 20 Pa · s or more, still more preferably 30 Pa · s or more. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <28>.
<30> The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <29>, which is a lip cosmetic.
<31>前記<1>〜<30>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料の口唇に適用するための使用。
<32>油性化粧料製造のための前記<1>〜<30>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料の使用。
<33>前記<1>〜<30>のいずれか1記載の油性化粧料の、化粧料塗布用具を用いて口唇に適用するための使用。
<31> Use for applying the oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <30> to the lips.
<32> Use of the oily cosmetics according to any one of <1> to <30> for producing oily cosmetics.
<33> Use of the oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <30> for applying to the lips using a cosmetic application tool.
製造例1(セルロース誘導体1の製造)
窒素下トルエン、メチルエチルケトン混合溶媒中50℃で、57.8g(0.165mol)のヒドロキシプロピルセルロース(セルニーM;日本曹達社製)に、94g(1.01mol)の3−メチルピリジンを加えて溶解させる。85.1g(0.31mol)の塩化パルミトイルを0.5時間かけて滴下する。その後50℃で5時間反応させ、エタノール中で沈殿させて精製し、乾燥させると、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステルが得られた。(質量平均分子量150万、平均アシル置換度は全水酸基の60mol%)
Production Example 1 (Production of Cellulose Derivative 1)
Dissolve 94 g (1.01 mol) of 3-methylpyridine in 57.8 g (0.165 mol) of hydroxypropyl cellulose (Cerney M; manufactured by Nippon Soda Co., Ltd.) at 50 ° C. in a mixed solvent of toluene under nitrogen and methyl ethyl ketone. Let me. 85.1 g (0.31 mol) of palmitoyl chloride is added dropwise over 0.5 hours. Then, the mixture was reacted at 50 ° C. for 5 hours, precipitated in ethanol, purified, and dried to obtain a hydroxypropyl cellulose palmitic acid ester. (Mass average molecular weight 1.5 million, average acyl substitution degree is 60 mol% of all hydroxyl groups)
(質量平均分子量の測定)
重合体の平均分子量(Mw)は、日立L−6000型高速液体クロマトグラフィーを使用し、ゲル・パーミエーション・クロマトグラフィー(GPC)によって測定した。溶離液流路ポンプは日立L−6000、検出器はショーデックスRI SE−61示差屈折率検出器、カラムはGMHHR−Hをダブルに接続したものを用いた。サンプルは、溶離液で0.5g/100mLの濃度に調整し、20μLを用いた。溶離液には、1mmol/LのN,N‐ジメチルドデシルアミン(ファーミンDM20、花王社製)のクロロホルム溶液を使用した。カラム温度は40℃で、流速は1.0mL/分で行った。
(Measurement of mass average molecular weight)
The average molecular weight (Mw) of the polymer was measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using Hitachi L-6000 type high performance liquid chromatography. The eluent flow path pump used was Hitachi L-6000, the detector used was a Shodex RI SE-61 differential refractive index detector, and the column used was a double-connected GMHHR-H. The sample was adjusted to a concentration of 0.5 g / 100 mL with an eluent, and 20 μL was used. As the eluent, a chloroform solution of 1 mmol / L N, N-dimethyldodecylamine (Farmin DM20, manufactured by Kao Corporation) was used. The column temperature was 40 ° C. and the flow rate was 1.0 mL / min.
(平均アシル(エステル)置換度の測定)
H-NMRにおいて、エステル化されたセルロースのカルボニル基の隣のメチン基のプロトンは、5ppm付近に現れ、セルロースの6員環酸素の隣のプロトンとセルロースの水酸基の隣のメチレン基の合計が3.5ppm付近に現れる。その積分値から算出した。
(Measurement of average acyl (ester) substitution degree)
In 1 H-NMR, the proton of the methine group next to the carbonyl group of the esterified cellulose appears at around 5 ppm, and the sum of the proton next to the 6-membered ring oxygen of the cellulose and the methylene group next to the hydroxyl group of the cellulose is 3 Appears around 5.5 ppm. It was calculated from the integrated value.
製造例2(セルロース誘導体2の製造)
窒素下トルエン、メチルエチルケトン混合溶媒中50℃で、57.8g(0.165mol)のヒドロキシプロピルセルロース(セルニーM;日本曹達社製)に、231.2g(2.46mol)の3−メチルピリジンを加えて溶解させる。122.5g(0.44mol)の塩化パルミトイルを0.5時間かけて滴下する。その後50℃で5時間反応させ、エタノール中で沈殿させて精製し、乾燥させると、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステルが得られた。(質量平均分子量100万、平均アシル置換度は全水酸基の80mol%)
Production Example 2 (Production of Cellulose Derivative 2)
Add 231.2 g (2.46 mol) of 3-methylpyridine to 57.8 g (0.165 mol) of hydroxypropyl cellulose (Celney M; manufactured by Nippon Soda Corporation) at 50 ° C. in a mixed solvent of toluene under nitrogen and methyl ethyl ketone. To dissolve. 122.5 g (0.44 mol) of palmitoyl chloride is added dropwise over 0.5 hours. Then, the mixture was reacted at 50 ° C. for 5 hours, precipitated in ethanol, purified, and dried to obtain a hydroxypropyl cellulose palmitic acid ester. (Mass average molecular weight 1 million, average acyl substitution degree is 80 mol% of all hydroxyl groups)
製造例3(セルロース誘導体3の製造)
窒素下トルエン、メチルエチルケトン混合溶媒中50℃で、57.8g(0.165mol)のヒドロキシプロピルセルロース(セルニーM;日本曹達社製)に、232.8g(2.5mol)の3−メチルピリジンを加えて溶解させる。300.0g(1.09mol)の塩化パルミトイルを0.5時間かけて滴下する。その後50℃で5時間反応させ、エタノール中で沈殿させて精製し、乾燥させると、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステルが得られた。(質量平均分子量87万、平均アシル置換度は全水酸基の90mol%)
Production Example 3 (Production of Cellulose Derivative 3)
232.8 g (2.5 mol) of 3-methylpyridine was added to 57.8 g (0.165 mol) of hydroxypropyl cellulose (Celney M; manufactured by Nippon Soda Corporation) at 50 ° C. in a mixed solvent of toluene under nitrogen and methyl ethyl ketone. To dissolve. 30.0 g (1.09 mol) of palmitoyl chloride is added dropwise over 0.5 hours. Then, the mixture was reacted at 50 ° C. for 5 hours, precipitated in ethanol, purified, and dried to obtain a hydroxypropyl cellulose palmitic acid ester. (Mass average molecular weight 870,000, average acyl substitution degree is 90 mol% of all hydroxyl groups)
製造例4(セルロース誘導体4の製造)
窒素下クロロホルム中室温で、5g(8.3×10-6mol)のヒドロキシプロピルセルロース(セルニーM;日本曹達社製)に、19.9グラム(0.21mol)の3−メチルピリジンを加えて溶解させる。20.6g(0.094mol)の塩化ラウロイルを0.5時間かけて滴下する。その後50℃で15時間反応させ、メタノール中で沈殿させて精製し、乾燥させると、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースラウリン酸エステルが得られた。(質量平均分子量80万、平均アシル置換度は全水酸基の90mol%)
Production Example 4 (Production of Cellulose Derivative 4)
At room temperature in chloroform under nitrogen, 19.9 grams (0.21 mol) of 3-methylpyridine was added to 5 g (8.3 × 10 -6 mol) of hydroxypropyl cellulose (Celney M; manufactured by Nippon Soda Corporation). Dissolve. 20.6 g (0.094 mol) of lauroyl chloride is added dropwise over 0.5 hours. Then, the mixture was reacted at 50 ° C. for 15 hours, precipitated in methanol, purified, and dried to obtain a hydroxypropyl cellulose lauric acid ester. (Mass average molecular weight 800,000, average acyl substitution degree is 90 mol% of all hydroxyl groups)
製造例5(セルロース誘導体5の製造)
窒素下トルエン、メチルエチルケトン混合溶媒中50℃で、57.8g(0.165mol)のヒドロキシプロピルセルロース(セルニーM;日本曹達社製)に、93.8g(1mol)の3−メチルピリジンを加えて溶解させる。47.6g(0.17mol)の塩化パルミトイルを0.5時間かけて滴下する。その後50℃で5時間反応させ、エタノール中で沈殿させて精製し、乾燥させると、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステルが得られた。(質量平均分子量75万、平均アシル置換度は全水酸基の30mol%)
Production Example 5 (Production of Cellulose Derivative 5)
Dissolve 93.8 g (1 mol) of 3-methylpyridine in 57.8 g (0.165 mol) of hydroxypropyl cellulose (Celney M; manufactured by Nippon Soda Co., Ltd.) at 50 ° C. in a mixed solvent of toluene under nitrogen and methyl ethyl ketone. Let me. 47.6 g (0.17 mol) of palmitoyl chloride is added dropwise over 0.5 hours. Then, the mixture was reacted at 50 ° C. for 5 hours, precipitated in ethanol, purified, and dried to obtain a hydroxypropyl cellulose palmitic acid ester. (Mass average molecular weight 750,000, average acyl substitution degree is 30 mol% of all hydroxyl groups)
実施例1〜15、比較例1〜5
表1に示す組成の口紅を製造し、バルクのせん断粘度を測定するとともに、塗布直後のごわつきのなさ、塗布直後のつっぱり感のなさ、塗布直後、唇をすり合わせたときの滑らかさ、塗布直後のタイルへの2次付着性(色差ΔE)、塗布4時間後のタイルへの2次付着性(色差ΔE)、塗布直後の色移りしにくさ、塗布4時間後の色移りしにくさ、塗布4時間後の唇上の口紅のヨレにくさ、塗布直後の耐水性及び口紅の落としやすさを評価した。結果を表1に併せて示す。
Examples 1 to 15, Comparative Examples 1 to 5
The lipsticks with the compositions shown in Table 1 are manufactured, and the shear viscosity of the bulk is measured. At the same time, there is no stiffness immediately after application, no feeling of tension immediately after application, smoothness immediately after application, when the lips are rubbed, and immediately after application. Secondary adhesion to tiles (color difference ΔE), secondary adhesion to tiles 4 hours after application (color difference ΔE), difficulty in color transfer immediately after application, difficulty in color transfer 4 hours after application, application The resistance of the lipstick on the lips after 4 hours, the water resistance immediately after application, and the ease of removing the lipstick were evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 1.
(製造方法)
色材以外の基剤原料を加熱溶解して均一に混合し、40℃まで冷却した。これに色材原料を加え、ディスパーザーにて均一に分散させ、脱泡した後、容器に流し込んで、口紅を得た。
(Production method)
The base raw materials other than the coloring material were heated and dissolved, mixed uniformly, and cooled to 40 ° C. A color material raw material was added thereto, and the mixture was uniformly dispersed with a disperser, defoamed, and then poured into a container to obtain a lipstick.
(評価方法)
(1)せん断粘度の測定:
調製したバルクを、レオメーター(MCR301;アントンパール社製)により、25℃におけるせん断粘度を測定した。冶具はφ25mmのものを用い、せん断速度0.1s-1 のときのせん断粘度を読み取った。
(Evaluation methods)
(1) Measurement of shear viscosity:
The prepared bulk was measured for shear viscosity at 25 ° C. with a rheometer (MCR301; manufactured by Anton Pearl Co., Ltd.). A jig having a diameter of 25 mm was used, and the shear viscosity at a shear rate of 0.1 s -1 was read.
(2)塗布直後のごわつきのなさ(官能評価):
専門パネラー10名により、各口紅を唇へ塗布し、5分後のごわつきのなさを官能評価した。結果を、良好である(ごわつきがない)と評価したパネラーの人数で示した。
(2) No stiffness immediately after application (sensory evaluation):
Each lipstick was applied to the lips by 10 specialized panelists, and the lack of stiffness after 5 minutes was sensory evaluated. The results were shown by the number of panelists who rated it as good (no stiffness).
(3)塗布直後のつっぱり感のなさ(官能評価):
専門パネラー10名により、各口紅を唇へ塗布し、5分後のつっぱり感のなさを官能評価した。結果を、良好である(つっぱり感がない)と評価したパネラーの人数で示した。
(3) No feeling of tension immediately after application (sensory evaluation):
Each lipstick was applied to the lips by 10 specialized panelists, and the lack of tension after 5 minutes was sensory evaluated. The results are shown by the number of panelists who evaluated it as good (no feeling of tension).
(4)塗布直後、唇をすり合わせたときの滑らかさ(官能評価):
専門パネラー10名により、各口紅を唇へ塗布し、5分後に唇をすり合わせたときの滑らかさを官能評価した。結果を、良好である(滑らかである)と評価したパネラーの人数で示した。
(4) Smoothness when lips are rubbed immediately after application (sensory evaluation):
Each lipstick was applied to the lips by 10 specialized panelists, and the smoothness when the lips were rubbed after 5 minutes was sensory evaluated. The results are shown by the number of panelists who rated it as good (smooth).
(5)塗布直後及び4時間後のタイルへの2次付着性(色差ΔE):
唇に口紅を適量塗布し、5分経過後と4時間経過後、白タイルに口紅を転写し、色のついた部分を測色した。次式により、白タイルとの色差ΔEを求めた。
ΔE=(ΔL2+Δa2+Δb2)1/2
・白タイル : 住居用陶器製タイル(INAX社製、10cm×10cm)
白タイルの測色値は、L=93.7,a=0.86,b=3.95
・測色器 : 色差計CR−300(ミノルタ社製)
(5) Secondary adhesion to tiles immediately after application and after 4 hours (color difference ΔE):
An appropriate amount of lipstick was applied to the lips, and after 5 minutes and 4 hours, the lipstick was transferred to a white tile and the colored part was measured. The color difference ΔE from the white tile was obtained by the following equation.
ΔE = (ΔL 2 + Δa 2 + Δb 2 ) 1/2
-White tiles: Residential pottery tiles (INAX, 10 cm x 10 cm)
The color measurement value of the white tile is L = 93.7, a = 0.86, b = 3.95.
-Colorimeter: Color difference meter CR-300 (manufactured by Minolta)
(6)塗布直後及び4時間後の色移りしにくさ(官能評価):
専門パネラー10名により、各口紅を唇へ塗布し、5分後と4時間経過後、カップに唇を付けたときの色移りしにくさを官能評価した。結果を、良好である(色移りしにくい)と評価したパネラーの人数で示した。
(6) Difficulty in color transfer immediately after application and after 4 hours (sensory evaluation):
Each lipstick was applied to the lips by 10 specialized panelists, and after 5 minutes and 4 hours, the resistance to color transfer when the lips were attached to the cup was sensory evaluated. The results are shown by the number of panelists who evaluated it as good (difficult to transfer color).
(7)塗布4時間後の唇上の口紅のヨレにくさ(官能評価):
専門パネラー10名により、各口紅を唇へ塗布し、4時間経過後、唇上の口紅のヨレにくさを官能評価した。結果を、良好である(ヨレにくい)と評価したパネラーの人数で示した。
(7) Difficulty of lipstick on the lips 4 hours after application (sensory evaluation):
Each lipstick was applied to the lips by 10 specialized panelists, and after 4 hours, the lipstick on the lips was sensory evaluated for its resistance to twisting. The results are shown by the number of panelists who evaluated it as good (hard to twist).
(8)塗布直後の耐水性(官能評価):
各口紅を唇へ塗布した後、唇が濡れている状態での色移りしにくさを評価した。
専門パネラー10名により、各口紅を唇へ塗布し、5分後に20℃の水を入れたカップで水を飲み、カップへの色移りしにくさを官能評価した。結果を、良好である(色移りしにくい)と評価したパネラーの人数で示した。
(8) Water resistance immediately after application (sensory evaluation):
After applying each lipstick to the lips, the difficulty of color transfer when the lips were wet was evaluated.
Each lipstick was applied to the lips by 10 specialized panelists, and after 5 minutes, the water was drunk in a cup containing water at 20 ° C., and the difficulty of color transfer to the cup was sensory evaluated. The results are shown by the number of panelists who evaluated it as good (difficult to transfer color).
(9)口紅の落としやすさ:
専門パネラー10名により、各口紅を唇へ塗布し、4時間経過後、その口紅をメイク落とし(ビオレメイク落とし ふくだけコットン うるおいリッチ)で落としたときの落としやすさを官能評価した。結果を、良好である(綺麗に落とすことができる)と評価したパネラーの人数で示した。
(9) Ease of removing lipstick:
Ten specialized panelists applied each lipstick to their lips, and after 4 hours, sensory evaluated the ease of removing the lipstick with a make-up remover (biore make-up remover, cotton moisturizing rich). The results are shown by the number of panelists who evaluated it as good (it can be removed cleanly).
実施例16〜17
実施例1〜15と同様にして、表2及び表3に示す組成の口紅を製造し、バルクのせん断粘度を測定した。
得られた口紅はいずれも、塗布直後のごわつきやつっぱり感がなく、塗布直後、唇をすり合わせたときに滑らかで、塗布直後及び塗布4時間後のタイルへの2次付着が抑制され、塗布直後及び塗布4時間後に色移りしにくく、塗布4時間後に唇上の口紅がヨレにくく、塗布直後の耐水性に優れ、しかも、口紅をきれいに落とすことができるものである。
Examples 16-17
Lipsticks having the compositions shown in Tables 2 and 3 were produced in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 15, and the bulk shear viscosity was measured.
All of the obtained lipsticks did not feel stiff or taut immediately after application, were smooth immediately after application and when the lips were rubbed together, and secondary adhesion to the tile immediately after application and 4 hours after application was suppressed, and immediately after application. In addition, the color does not easily transfer 4 hours after application, the lipstick on the lips does not easily get twisted 4 hours after application, the water resistance immediately after application is excellent, and the lipstick can be removed cleanly.
Claims (33)
(A)主鎖にセルロース骨格を有し、全水酸基の45〜95mol%が基−O-M-R(MはCH2又はカルボニル基C=Oを示し、Rは炭素数3〜40の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基を示す)で置換されているセルロース誘導体 1〜50質量%、
(B)揮発性の炭化水素油 5〜80質量%、
(C)25℃で液状のエステル油 5〜50質量%
を含有し、成分(C)に対する成分(B)の質量割合(B)/(C)が、0.7〜9であり、25℃におけるせん断速度0.1s-1 のとき、バルク全体のせん断粘度が1500Pa・s 以下である油性化粧料。 The following components (A), (B) and (C):
(A) It has a cellulose skeleton in the main chain, and 45 to 95 mol% of all hydroxyl groups is a group-OM-R (M represents CH 2 or a carbonyl group C = O, and R is a direct chain having 3 to 40 carbon atoms. 1 to 50% by mass of cellulose derivative substituted with (indicating an alkyl or alkenyl group) of the chain or branched chain,
(B) Volatile hydrocarbon oil 5-80% by mass,
(C) Ester oil liquid at 25 ° C. 5 to 50% by mass
When the mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) is 0.7 to 9 and the shear rate at 25 ° C. is 0.1 s -1 , the shear of the entire bulk is carried out. An oil-based cosmetic having a viscosity of 1500 Pa · s or less.
R1 aSiO(4-a)/2 (1)
(式中、R1は炭素数1〜8の炭化水素基、フェニル基、水酸基又は一般式−R2−Rf(R2は炭素数2〜6の2価のアルキレン基を示し、Rfは炭素数1〜8のパーフルオロアルキル基を示す)であって、水酸基及び一般式−R2−Rfを必須とする官能基から任意に選ばれ、aは平均数で1.0≦a≦1.8である)
で表される構造を有するものである請求項16〜18のいずれか1項記載の油性化粧料。 The component (D) is at least (D-2) a fluorine-modified silicone resin, and the general formula (1)
R 1 a SiO (4-a) / 2 (1)
(In the formula, R 1 represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a hydroxyl group or a general formula −R 2 −Rf (R 2 represents a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and Rf is a carbon. a number indicating the 1-8 perfluoroalkyl group), an arbitrarily chosen a hydroxyl group and the general formula -R 2 -Rf from the functional groups as an essential, 1.0 ≦ a ≦ 1 a is an average number. 8)
The oily cosmetic according to any one of claims 16 to 18, which has a structure represented by.
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FR2857257B1 (en) * | 2003-07-07 | 2007-10-19 | Oreal | USE OF MODIFIED CELLULOSIC DERIVATIVES AS AN ORGANIC PHASE-ENHANCING AGENT OF AN NAIL VARNISH COMPOSITION. |
JP2006111543A (en) * | 2004-10-13 | 2006-04-27 | Kanebo Cosmetics Inc | Oily cosmetic |
WO2010035893A2 (en) * | 2008-09-25 | 2010-04-01 | Kao Corporation | Oil-based cosmetic preparation |
JP5436113B2 (en) * | 2008-09-25 | 2014-03-05 | 花王株式会社 | Oily cosmetics |
JP2011079746A (en) | 2009-10-02 | 2011-04-21 | Kao Corp | Oil-based cosmetic preparation |
JP5599199B2 (en) | 2010-02-24 | 2014-10-01 | 花王株式会社 | Oily cosmetics |
JP6196891B2 (en) * | 2013-11-25 | 2017-09-13 | 花王株式会社 | Oily cosmetics |
JP6401935B2 (en) * | 2014-05-28 | 2018-10-10 | 花王株式会社 | Oily cosmetics |
JP6309825B2 (en) * | 2014-05-28 | 2018-04-11 | 花王株式会社 | Oily cosmetics |
-
2016
- 2016-11-02 JP JP2016215200A patent/JP6829581B2/en active Active
- 2016-11-07 WO PCT/JP2016/082992 patent/WO2017090416A1/en active Application Filing
- 2016-11-07 CN CN201680069165.1A patent/CN108289826B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2016-11-07 KR KR1020187013475A patent/KR20180083329A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
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JP2017105757A (en) | 2017-06-15 |
TW201722399A (en) | 2017-07-01 |
WO2017090416A1 (en) | 2017-06-01 |
CN108289826B (en) | 2021-08-17 |
CN108289826A (en) | 2018-07-17 |
KR20180083329A (en) | 2018-07-20 |
TWI728006B (en) | 2021-05-21 |
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