JP6629970B2 - Compositions with improved brightness effect - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin substances with improved optical effects.

  The expression “composition for caring for and / or making up keratin substances” according to the invention is understood to mean a cosmetic composition which is different from the cleansing composition which is washed away.

  In particular, these are compositions for caring for and / or making up the skin of the face and / or the body, in particular the skin of the face.

  For centuries, consumers around the world have sought keratin substances, in particular cosmetics, to improve the appearance of the skin, in particular the optical cosmetic effects of the skin, for example skin lightening, masking and brightness effects. ing.

  By "hiding effect" is meant a reduction in defects of the keratin material, such as uneven skin tone, pores, wrinkles or fine lines, and an improvement in the appearance of keratin materials, especially skin and lips.

  "Brightness effect" (brightness effect) refers to the effect of a healthy glow, which is accompanied by an improvement in the dull appearance of the complexion (effect of reducing or imparting saturation and preventing dull complexion), It is understood to mean the natural coloration of the skin.

  Cosmetic compositions capable of providing the above-mentioned optical effects to the skin are known, for example, foundation products containing emulsion-type colorants and oils.

  However, they are not yet satisfactory from the point of view of the immediate brightness effect.

  Furthermore, the immediate effect of the brightness is expected to last for a long time, ie the brightness effect does not change or changes only slightly after a certain period of time, for example 5 hours.

  Furthermore, there is still a need to improve the hiding effect.

  Therefore, there is a need to provide a composition for caring and / or making up keratin materials that overcomes the above-mentioned disadvantages and has an improved immediate brightness effect.

  This effect lasts for a long time, for example after 5 hours a slightly changed or unchanged brightness is seen.

  Further, there is a need to provide stable compositions that retain the improved optical effects described above.

DE4127230 EP-A-542669 EP-A-787730 EP-A-787731 WO-A-96 / 08537 US4,578,266

  It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous substances, which has improved optical effects, in particular brightness effects (brightening effects).

  Another object of the present invention is to provide such a composition which is stable over time.

  The present inventors provide a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin substances, comprising a composition comprising nacre, triglycerides of fatty acids, specific ethers and dextrin esters. It has been found that this purpose can be achieved.

  The invention also relates to a method for caring for and / or making up a keratinous substance, comprising applying at least one layer of the above-mentioned cosmetic composition to the keratinous substance.

Accordingly, the present invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin substances,
(i) at least one nacre,
(ii) a triglyceride of at least one fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid has 4 to 30 carbon atoms and is linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, triglyceride;
(iii) at least one ether of the formula (II)
R ₅ -OR ₆ Formula (II)
(Where
R ₅ and R ₆ may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₅ alkyl or alkenyl group);
(iv) at least one ester of dextrin.

  The composition itself is intended to care and / or make up keratin substances, especially skin and lips.

  More particularly, another aspect of the present invention is a method for caring for and / or making up keratin substances, in particular skin and lips, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to keratin substances.

  The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for improving the keratin substance, in particular the brightness effect of the skin and lips.

  Surprisingly, the inventors have found that the combination of the above-mentioned components in the composition is suitable for imparting an improved optical effect to the keratin material, in particular an immediate brightness effect. .

  Furthermore, the brightness effect lasts for a long time.

  Preferably, the hiding effect is improved by the present invention.

  Further, the compositions of the present invention are stable over time.

  For the purposes of the present invention, "brightness effect" refers to the immediate and long-lasting effect of a healthy shine, which improves the dull appearance of the complexion (reduces or imparts saturation, (The effect of preventing complexion) is understood to mean the natural coloration of the skin.

  For the purposes of the present invention, "hiding effect" means the reduction of defects in the keratin material, such as uneven skin tone, pores, wrinkles or fine wrinkles, and the improvement of the appearance of keratin materials, especially skin and lips.

  The brightness effect and the hiding effect of the composition of the present invention are measured using a gloss meter and a colorimeter, respectively.

More specifically, the measurement protocol is as follows:
A 50 μm film of the composition of the invention is evenly applied to a contrast card (sold by ERICHSEN under the reference Typ 24/5). After 24 hours, the contrast cards with the composition according to the invention are measured with a gloss meter and a colorimeter, respectively, in order to obtain a gloss value representing the immediate effect and an L * value used in the calculation of the hiding effect.

  For the measurement of the present invention, the gloss meter was manufactured by Konica Minolta under the trade name MULTI GLOSS 268 PLUS, and the test angle was 60 °.

  For the measurements of the present invention, the colorimeter was manufactured by Konica Minolta under the trade name CHROMA METER CR-400.

In addition, the long-lasting brightness effect
1. applying 100 mg of the composition of the present invention to each of the half faces of 12 female models between the ages of 20 and 45,
2. Immediately and after 5 hours, in a room under standard conditions (21 ± 1 ° C. and 45 ± 5%), the brightness (reflection) of the female model's face is measured using a SAMBA device manufactured by Bossa Nova Technologies. It is measured according to the step of evaluating.

  The higher the gloss and hiding values, the better the immediate brightness and hiding effects.

  The smaller the difference between the luminance (reflection) measured immediately and the luminance (reflection) measured after 5 hours, the better the long-lasting luminance effect.

Preferably, in order to achieve the object of the present invention,
The gloss value (immediate brightness) is expected to be 70 or more,
The concealment ratio (calculated by L *) is predicted to be 70 or more,
The difference in luminance (representing a long lasting luminance effect) is expected to be 12 or less.

  "Stable over time" means that the composition of the present invention has a visual change in color, odor, or viscosity, a change in pH after storage for 2 months at all temperatures between 4 ° C and 45 ° C. Or no change in microscopic appearance.

  "Keratin substance" is intended to mean human keratin substances, such as skin, lips and nails, especially skin and lips, more preferably skin, especially facial skin.

  Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent on reading the following description and examples.

  In the following, unless otherwise specified, particularly in the expressions “between” and “range from...”, The limit value of the value range is included in this range.

  Further, the expression "at least one" as used herein is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

(i) Nacre The composition of the present invention comprises at least one nacre.

  The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nacre.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "nacre" may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced or synthesized in its shell by certain mollusks, via optical interference It means colored particles of any shape having a color effect.

  The nacre used in the composition according to the invention may be in lamellar (or platelet form), spherical (or spherical) form, or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

  In the present patent application, the term "spherical particles" means particles in the form of spheres or substantially spheres.

  The term “lamellar particle” or “platelet morphology” is used herein to refer to a parallelepiped shape (rectangular or square surface), disc shape (characterized by three dimensions: length, width, and height). A particle having a circular surface) or an oval shape (an oval surface) is meant.

The nacre is coated with nacre pigments such as mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with oxide or titanium dioxide, mica coated with chromium oxide, tin oxide. Mica coated with SnO ₂ , mica coated with BaSO ₄ , mica coated with an organic dye, and further nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

  They may also be mica particles on which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed.

  Examples of nacres that may further be mentioned include titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or natural mica coated with bismuth oxychloride.

  In particular, nacres that may be mentioned are platelet-type mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide or both.

  Among the commercially available nacres, the nacre Timica® sold by BASF, Flamenco and Duochrome (mica base) sold by Engelhard, the Timiron nacre sold by Merck, Mention may be made of the mica-based Prestige nacre sold by Eckart, as well as the synthetic mica-based Sunshine nacre sold by Sun Chemical.

  The nacre may more particularly have a yellow or pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper color or shade.

  Illustrative of nacres that can be used in connection with the present invention are, among others, the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch, among others, by Engelhard. Gold nacre sold under the name gold 233X (Cloisonne); especially sold under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) by the company Merck and under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne) by the company Engelhard Bronze nacres sold in particular under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) by the company Engelhard and under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna) by the company Merck. Orange nacres; especially nacres in brown shades sold under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite) by the company Engelhard; Copper pearls sold under the name pper 340A (Timica); especially red pearls sold under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona) by the company Merck; especially Yellow under the name Engelhard (4502) Nacres with a yellow shine sold under (Chromalite); especially nacres in red shades with a gold shine sold under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) by the company Engelhard; Pink pearls sold under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); especially black pearls with a glitter of gold sold under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica) by the company Engelhard; Blue nacre sold under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); Timica ® Terra White MN4501 sold by BASF; white nacre sold under the trade name Tim by BASF ica® black pearl sold under the trade name Terra Black MN4498; Timica® trade name sold by BASF under the trade name Timica® Terra Brown MN4509; brown pearl sold under the trade name Timica® under the trade name BASF ) Red nacre sold by Terra Red MN4506; Yellow nacre sold by BASF under the trade name Timica ® Terra Yellow MN4502; especially silver sold by Merck under the name Xirona Silver. And nacres of golden green and pinkish orange sold by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

  According to a preferred embodiment, nacres useful in the present invention are in platelet form. More particularly, nacres are mica platelets on which at least two successive layers of metal oxide are superimposed.

  Nacres of this type are commercially available, for example, sold by BASF under the trade name Timica® Terra White MN4501, a white powder.

  Advantageously, the nacre is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(ii) Triglycerides of fatty acids The composition of the present invention comprises at least one triglyceride of fatty acids, each of said fatty acids independently having from 4 to 30 carbon atoms and being linear or branched. Is saturated or unsaturated.

Triglycerides have the general formula (I):
CH ₂ (OOCR ₁ ) CH (OOCR ₂ ) CH ₂ (OOCR ₃ ) (I)
Wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ usually have different chain lengths, but can be the same, for example, C ₄ -C ₃₀ , more usually C ₆ -C ₂₄ )
Having.

  Examples of triglycerides are given in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook. Triglycerides of fatty acids are esters of glycerol.

Preferred glycerides fatty acid esters, C ₂₄ from C _6, preferably from C ₇ C _22, more preferably with carbon chain lengths in the range of C ₁₈ from C _7, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Has carboxylic acid.

  Synthetic triglycerides include, but are not limited to, triethylhexanoin, trimyristin, triolein, tristearin and glyceryl trilaurate.

  Plant-derived glyceride fatty acid esters are particularly preferred, and specific examples of preferred materials as glyceride fatty acid ester sources include peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, palm, cocoa butter, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, castor oil. And hydrogenated castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, and sunflower seed oil. Particularly preferred are coconut oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof, especially coconut oil.

  In one embodiment, the triglyceride of a fatty acid is a liquid.

  “Liquid triglyceride of a fatty acid” means a triglyceride of a fatty acid that is in liquid form at 20 ° C. and atmospheric pressure, typically 101325 Pa.

  In one embodiment, the liquid triglyceride of the fatty acid has 4 to 10 carbon atoms, e.g., triglyceride of heptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acid, or e.g., sunflower, corn, soy, uri, grape. Seeds, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, alara, sunflower, castor, and avocado oil, a triglyceride of capryl / capric acid, such as those sold or the name Miglyol® 810, 812, and 818 by the company Stearirineries Dubois , Jojoba oil, and shea butter oil.

  Representative triglycerides include glyceryl esters of heptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, octanoic, caprylic, capric, isostearic, adipic, lauric, stearic, and mixtures thereof.

  In one embodiment, the fatty acid of the triglyceride has 6 to 12 carbon atoms.

In one embodiment, the triglyceride, C ₁₂ triglycerides from C _6, for example, triheptanoin, capric triglyceride, caprylic triglyceride, Toriechiruhekisanoin, trimyristin, triolein, tristearin, and trilaurate, glyceryl and mixtures thereof Selected from the group consisting of:

  In particular, mention may be made of the triethylhexanoin component, for example the product sold under the trade name Nikkol Trifat S308 by Nippon Surfactant Industries, Ltd.

  In one embodiment, the triglyceride of the fatty acid is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 20%, preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(iii) Ethers useful in the compositions of the inventionThe compositions of the invention comprise at least one ether of formula (II)
R ₅ -OR ₆ Formula (II)
including.

In the formula (II),
R ₅ and R ₆ may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₅ alkyl or alkenyl group.

Preferably, ethers of formula (II), R ₅ and R ₆ groups may be the same or different and the compound represents a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl group Is selected from

More particularly, according to the present invention, R ₅ and R ₆ groups are the same.

  According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, preferred dialkyl ethers are di-n-hexyl ether, di-n-heptyl ether, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-decyl. It is selected from ether, di-isodecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, di-n-tetradecyl ether, di-n-hexadecyl ether, di-n-octadecyl ether, or a mixture thereof.

R ₅ and R ₆ preferentially represent a C ₈ group.

  These compounds can be prepared according to the methods described in patent application DE4127230.

  Most preferably, the ether of formula (II) is di-n-octyl ether (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether). Such products are commercially available, for example those sold under the name Cetiol OE by the company Cognis (BASF) or under the name Rofetan OE by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals.

  Advantageously, the ether of the formula (II) is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. .

(iv) Dextrin Ester According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least one ester of dextrin, preferably an ester of dextrin and a fatty acid.

According to the present invention, dextrin ester is preferably a dextrin ester from linear or branched C ₁₂ saturated or unsaturated fatty acid is a C ₂₄ fatty acid.

Preferably, dextrin ester, dextrin and C ₁₄ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, for example, myristic acid, ester of palmitic acid, or mixtures thereof.

  Dextrin palmitate, such as that commercialized under the reference name RHEOPEARL KL2® OR by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd., dextrin myristate, such as that commercialized under the reference name Rheopearl MKL2® by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd. And mixtures thereof.

  According to yet another preferred embodiment, the ester of a dextrin and a fatty acid according to the invention is dextrin myristate.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, of at least one ester of dextrin, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin substances,
(i) 1% to 10% by mass of at least one nacre,
(ii) 0.1 to 10% by weight of a triglyceride of at least one fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid has 4 to 30 carbon atoms and is linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated. , Triglycerides,
(iii) 1% to 15% by weight of at least one ether of the formula (II)
R ₅ -OR ₆ Formula (II)
(Where
R ₅ and R ₆ may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₅ alkyl or alkenyl group);
(iv) from 0.1% to 5% by weight of at least one ester of dextrin,
The above amounts relate to the composition, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

  Compositions according to the present invention can be in various forms, such as suspensions, dispersions, solutions, gels, emulsions, such as oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O), and multiple (e.g., , W / O / W, polyol / O / W, and O / W / O) Emulsions, creams, foams, sticks, dispersions of vesicles, for example ionic and / or non-ionic lipids, two-phase And multiphase lotions, sprays, powders, and pastes. The composition may be anhydrous, for example, it can be an anhydrous paste or stick. The composition may also be a non-rinsable composition.

  According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a liquid composition.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous fatty phase.

Fatty phase The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid and / or solid fatty phase, preferably a liquid fatty phase.

  According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion.

  In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, in particular at least one oil different from the components listed above.

  The term “oil” refers to any fat body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

  These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

  Oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature. More specifically, volatile oils have an evaporation rate between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm ² / min (inclusive).

The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, non-volatile oils have an evaporation rate of strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm ² / min.

To measure this rate of evaporation, the mixture 15g of oil or oil to be tested, a temperature-controlled to a temperature of 25 ° C., the balance within the large chamber of 0.3 m ^3, which is humidity controlled at 50% relative humidity The sample is introduced into a crystallizer with a diameter of 7 cm. A blower (PAPST-MOTOREN, 8550 N, 2700 rpm, PAPST-MOTOREN) with the blades directed vertically above the solvent-containing crystallizer and facing the crystallizer at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the crystallizer The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely without agitation by ventilating at). The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rate is expressed in mg of oil evaporated per surface unit (cm ² ) and per unit of time (minute).

  Oils suitable for the present invention may be additional hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone-based or fluorine-based, different from the components described above.

  According to the invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group.

  The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

  The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

  The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

As an additional hydrocarbon oils, volatile oils, for example C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, for example, dodecane, tetradecane, fixed oils, for example, hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, straight mineral or synthetic origin Linear or branched hydrocarbons, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, copolymers of diol dimers and diacid dimers and the like esters, copolymers of a polyol and a diacid dimer, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ higher fatty acids, especially high molar mass of the oil having a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, parent oily polymers, hydroxylated esters, aromatic esters, esters of C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, parallel It can be mixtures thereof to.

The following may be mentioned as silicone oils:
Linear or cyclic volatile oils, especially those having a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ⁻⁶ m ² / sec), especially 2 to 10 silicon atoms, in particular 2 to 7 Those containing silicon atoms, these silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms,
Linear or cyclic, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS); containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups that are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms Dimethylsiloxane; for example, cyclohexasiloxane sold under the tradename Silsoft 1217 sold by Momentive Performance Materials,
Phenylsilicone, for example, phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, such as Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade by Dow Corning Phenyltrimethicone products sold by Fluid,
As well as mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the oil is selected from linear or cyclic, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl silicone, more preferably from cyclohexasiloxane, phenyltrimethicone, or a mixture thereof.

  According to a preferred embodiment, when present, the additional oils (excluding the oils of (ii) and (iii) mentioned above) are present in an amount of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Is present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

  Advantageously, the fatty phase is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase.

  The aqueous phase contains water.

The aqueous phase also contains (at room temperature: 25 ° C.) a water-miscible organic solvent, such as a monoalcohol containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; especially containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms. Polyols having preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferentially having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or Diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially having 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl ethers, mono, di or triethylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl Ethers, as well as mixtures thereof, may be included.

  The aqueous phase can also include stabilizers.

  The aqueous phase can also include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compounds that are compatible with the aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

  In particular, the compositions according to the invention can comprise an aqueous phase with a content ranging from 20% to 85% by weight, in particular from 30% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Film-forming agent Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming agent.

  Preferably, the film forming agent is selected from hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins.

  Hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins useful according to various embodiments of the present disclosure include, by way of example only, one or more selected from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers, hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, and mixtures thereof. Is included.

  Exemplary commercially available hydrogenated hydrocarbon resin products that may be used include the trade names Regalite® by Eastman Chemical Company, for example, R1090, R1100, R7100, S1100, and S5100 (hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene). / Indene copolymer); sold by Eastman Chemical Company under the trade names Eastotac® and Regalrez®, such as Regalrez® 1085 (a hydrogenated hydrocarbon resin having a Mw of about 1000) Products such as, but not limited to, hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene sold under the trade name Koboguard® by Kobo Products, for example, Koboguard® 5400 IDD.

  According to various embodiments of the present disclosure, the molecular weight of the at least one hydrogenated hydrocarbon resin may range from 500 to 1500, such as 500 to 1200, and the like. In at least one exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure, the molecular weight ranges from 500 to 900.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer as a film former.

  According to one embodiment, when present, the amount of film-forming agent in the composition of the invention is from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. %.

Pigments According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one pigment.

  "Pigments" are white or colored, organic or inorganic, non-interfering particles that are insoluble in aqueous and non-aqueous media and are intended to color the composition.

  Thus, in this respect, nacres (natural or otherwise), metallic pigments, interference pigments and the like are not included.

  Inorganic pigments that can be used in the present invention include titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides or dioxides, and also zinc, iron or chromium oxides, Prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate , As well as mixtures thereof.

  Organic pigments that can be used in the present invention include D & C pigments, lakes based on cochineal carmine, and lakes based on barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum, or diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP), And EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

  According to one preferred embodiment, more particularly inorganic pigments are used, advantageously selected from titanium oxide and iron oxide (especially yellow, black and red) coated with at least one hydrophobic agent. .

  The pigments of the invention are preferably wholly or partially surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, more particularly with a fluoro, fatty acid or amino acid, or silicone compound, or a mixture thereof.

  Its primary particle size D [0.5] is especially less than 20 μm, preferably between 0.4 and 10 μm (including the end points).

  By way of example, the hydrophobic treating agent may be a fatty acid such as stearic acid; a metal soap such as aluminum dimyristate and an aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid; perfluoroalkyl phosphate and polyhexafluoropropylene oxide; perfluoropolyether; It can be selected from acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyltriisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and silicone compounds such as dimethicone or polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  The hydrophobic treating agent is preferably selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, perfluoropolyethers, amino acids, N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

  More preferably, the hydrophobic agent is selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

  Surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to chemical, electronic, chemo-mechanical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. It is also possible to use commercial products.

  The surface agent can be absorbed or adsorbed on the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and formation of covalent bonds.

  According to one variant, the surface treatment comprises a coating of the pigment.

  The coating may represent from 0.1 to 10%, more particularly from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

  The coating may be formed, for example, by simply mixing the pigment and the liquid surface, optionally under elevated temperature conditions, with stirring, prior to incorporating the pigment into other components of the care or makeup composition. It can be carried out by adsorbing the surface agent on the surface of the pigment.

  The coating can be performed, for example, by chemically reacting the surface agent with the surface of the pigment to create a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigment. This method is described, inter alia, in US Pat. No. 4,578,266.

Amino acid or fatty acid treating agents Hydrophobic treating agents include fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl trititanate It can be selected from isostearyl (also called ITT), as well as mixtures thereof.

  N-acyl amino acids can include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group. Salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

  The fatty acids according to the invention are more particularly acids having a hydrocarbon chain with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably with 5 to 18 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon chains may be saturated, mono-unsaturated or poly-unsaturated.

  Examples of pigments coated with fatty acids include those containing the disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide pair, which are, in particular, NAI-TAO-77891, NAI-C33 from Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. -8073-10, NAI-C33-8075, NAI-C47-051-10, NAI-C33-115, NAI-C33-134, NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10, NAI-C33 -9001-10.

  Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include BWBO-12 (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-12 (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl triisostearate) by Kobo. Titanium), as well as those sold as BWRO-12 (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate).

  Preferably, pigments coated with disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide are used in the present invention.

  Preferably, when present, the pigment is present in an amount of 1% to 30%, preferably 2% to 25%, more preferably 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Present in the composition of the invention.

Another aspect of the methods and uses The present invention uses a composition according to the present invention described above, it is keratin materials a method for care and / or make-up.

  A method for caring for and / or making up a keratin material according to the invention comprises applying at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to the invention to the keratin material.

  The method according to the invention makes it possible to improve an optical cosmetic effect, for example an immediate brightness effect, without compromising other cosmetic effects.

  The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for improving the optical effect of keratin substances, in particular the skin and the lips, more particularly the skin.

  Preferably, the optical effects include a fast-acting luminance effect, as well as a long-lasting luminance effect, and a hiding effect.

  Those skilled in the art will recognize, based on their own general knowledge, the appropriate form of delivery and the method of preparation thereof, taking into account the nature of the components used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the envisaged uses for the composition. Please understand that you can choose.

  The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions and methods according to the invention, but do not limit the scope of the invention in any way.

I. Preparation Formulation 1 of the present invention and Comparative Formulations 1, 2, and 3 were prepared.

Comparative Formulation 1 contains silylated silica instead of the dextrin ester of the present invention,
Comparative Formulation 2 contains tridecyl trimellitate oil instead of components (ii) and (iii) of the present invention,
Comparative formulation 3 does not contain the mentioned nacre (i).

The formulations of the present invention and comparative formulations are:
Heating phase B to 90 ° C. until homogenized,
Grinding phase C at room temperature,
Mixing phase A, phase B, and phase C at room temperature until homogenized,
Phase D was prepared according to the process of adding to a homogenizer which is a Turbolab 2500 manufactured by PIERRE GUERIN TECHNOLOGIES.

II. Evaluation of the inventive and comparative formulations The luminance effect and the stability of the inventive and comparative formulations listed above after application to the keratin material were evaluated using the following protocol. .

Methods for assessing the instantaneous brightness of the compositions of the invention and comparative formulations:
A 50 μm thick coating of each formulation is applied to a contrast card, the card with the formulation is dried at room temperature (20-25 ° C.) for 24 hours, and then the gloss value is measured using a gloss meter at 60 ° I do.

Method for assessing long-lasting brightness of a formulation of the invention
1. 100 mg of a composition of the invention is applied to each of the half faces of 12 female models between the ages of 20 and 45,
2. Immediately and after 5 hours, in a room under standard conditions (21 ± 1 ° C. and 45 ± 5%), the brightness (reflection) of the female model's face is measured using a SAMBA device manufactured by Bossa Nova Technologies. evaluate.

  For the purposes of the present invention, it is expected that the smaller the change in luminance value between the instant and the 5 hour time point, the better long-lasting luminance effect will be observed.

Method for evaluating the hiding factor of the inventive and comparative formulations:
A 50 μm thick coating of each formulation is applied to a contrast card, the card with the formulation is dried at room temperature (20-25 ° C.) for 24 hours, and then the colorimeter is measured in both the black and white areas of the contrast card. The L * value is then measured, and then the in vitro concealment ratio is calculated using the following formula:

  The higher the gloss and hiding values, the better the immediate brightness and hiding effects.

  The smaller the difference between the luminance measured immediately and the luminance measured after 5 hours, the better the long-lasting luminance effect.

Preferably, in order to achieve the object of the present invention,
The gloss value (immediate brightness) is predicted to be 70 or more,
The concealment ratio (calculated by L *) is predicted to be 70 or more,
The difference in luminance (representing a long lasting luminance effect) is expected to be 12 or less.

Method for Evaluating the Stability of Inventive and Exemplary Formulations The inventive and comparative formulations were held at 4 ° C., 37 ° C., and 45 ° C. for two months. They were also kept in the oven continuously for 7 days under a temperature change from -20 ° C to 20 ° C every 6 hours.

  The results of the evaluation are as follows.

  From the above results, it is observed that all formulations are stable at different temperatures.

  Unlike Comparative Formulations 1, 2, and 3, Formulation 1 of the present invention has an improved immediate brightness effect and an improved hiding factor. Comparative Formulations 1, 2, and 3 are not satisfactory in one or both of the effects evaluated above.

  Finally, it has been observed that Formulation 1 of the present invention has a good long-lasting luminance effect.

Claims (21)

A composition for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, comprising:
(i) at least one nacre,
(ii) a triglyceride of at least one fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid has 4 to 30 carbon atoms, is linear or branched, and is saturated or unsaturated; triglyceride;
(iii) at least one ether of the formula (II)
R ₅ -OR ₆ Formula (II)
(Where
R ₅ and R ₆ may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₅ alkyl or alkenyl group);
(iv) at least one ester of dextrin. Nacres are mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with titanium oxide or titanium dioxide, mica coated with chromium oxide, mica coated with tin oxide, SnO ₂ in coated mica is selected mica coated with BaSO _4, mica coated with an organic dye, oxy bismuth-based nacreous pigments chloride, or a mixture thereof the composition of claim 1. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nacre is selected from mica on which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nacre is selected from platelet-type mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, or both. Nacre is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt% to 15 wt% based on the total weight of the composition A composition according to any one of claims 1-4. The triglyceride of a fatty acid is a compound of the formula (I)
CH ₂ (OOCR ₁ ) CH (OOCR ₂ ) CH ₂ (OOCR ₃ ) (I)
(Wherein, R _1, R _2, and R ₃ are the same or different, is a carbon chain that have a carbon atom of the C ₄ -C ₃₀₎
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 , wherein the composition is selected from: Triglycerides of fatty acids, triheptanoin, capric triglyceride, caprylic triglyceride, Toriechiruhekisanoin, trimyristin, triolein, tristearin, and trilaurate glyceryl and is selected from the group consisting of mixtures of claims 1 to 6 A composition according to any one of the preceding claims. Triglycerides of fatty acids is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of 20 wt%, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7. Formula (II):
R ₅ -OR ₆ Formula (II)
In the formula,
R ₅ and R ₆ groups may be the same or different and shows the linear or branched C ₆ -C ₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, any one of the claims 1 8 A composition according to claim 1. Ether (iii) of the formula (II) is di-n-hexyl ether, di-n-heptyl ether, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-isodecyl ether, di -n- dodecyl ether, di -n- tetradecyl ether, di -n- hexadecyl ether is selected from the group consisting of dialkyl ethers comprising di -n- octadecyl ether, or mixtures thereof, according to claim The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 . Ethers of the formula (II) is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition of 20 wt%, according to any one of claims 1 to 10 Composition. Dextrin ester is an ester of C ₁₂ to dextrins and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and C ₂₄ fatty acid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11. 13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, or a mixture thereof. Esters of dextrin is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13. A composition for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, comprising:
(i) 1% to 10% by mass of at least one nacre,
(ii) 0.1 to 10% by weight of a triglyceride of at least one fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid has 4 to 30 carbon atoms and is linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated. , Triglycerides,
(iii) 1% to 15% by weight of at least one ether of the formula (II)
R ₅ -OR ₆ Formula (II)
(Where
R ₅ and R ₆ may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₅ alkyl or alkenyl group);
(iv) from 0.1% to 5% by weight of at least one ester of dextrin,
The composition wherein the amount is relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims , further comprising at least one film forming agent . 17. The composition according to claim 16, wherein the film forming agent is selected from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer, hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, or a mixture thereof. Further comprising at least one Pigments A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17. 19. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the pigment is selected from a titanium oxide and an iron oxide inorganic pigment coated with a fatty acid containing a disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide pair. 20. A method for caring for and / or making up keratin substances, characterized in that the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 is applied. To improve the optical effects of keratin substances, use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 19.