CN108472206B

CN108472206B - Composition with improved gloss effect

Info

Publication number: CN108472206B
Application number: CN201580085412.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 栾途; 汪艳; 斯玛·巴伊
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2015-12-18
Filing date: 2015-12-18
Publication date: 2021-10-15
Anticipated expiration: 2035-12-18
Also published as: KR20180088376A; JP6629970B2; JP2018537429A; KR102139250B1; CN108472206A; WO2017101106A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising at least one nacre, at least one triglyceride of fatty acids, at least one fatty acid triglyceride of formula R₅‑O‑R₆And at least one dextrin ester.

Description

Composition with improved gloss effect

The present invention relates to compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials with improved optical effects.

The expression "composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials" is understood according to the invention to mean a cosmetic composition other than a rinse-off cleansing composition.

In particular, they will be compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin of the face and/or body, in particular the facial skin.

For centuries, consumers worldwide have sought new cosmetic products for improving the appearance of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, and in particular the optical cosmetic effects of the skin, such as whitening, covering and shine (radiance) effects of the skin.

By "coverage effect" is meant the reduction of imperfections of the keratin material, such as uneven skin tone, pores, wrinkles or fine lines, and the improvement of the appearance of the keratin material, in particular the skin and the lips.

"shine effect" refers to a healthy shine effect, which is understood to mean the natural color of the skin, the improvement of the dull appearance of the complexion (desaturation or colorization) and anti-dull complexion effects).

Cosmetic compositions capable of imparting the above-mentioned optical effects to the skin are known, for example foundation products of the emulsion type containing colorants and oils.

They are still unsatisfactory in terms of instant gloss effect.

Furthermore, the instant shine effect is expected to be durable, i.e. the shine effect does not change, or changes only slightly, after a period of time, for example after 5 hours.

Furthermore, there is still a need to improve the coverage effect.

There is thus a need to provide compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials which overcome the abovementioned drawbacks and have an improved immediate shine effect.

This effect is permanent, for example the gloss is visible after 5 hours, with only a slight or no change.

Furthermore, there is a need to provide stable compositions having the above improved optical effects.

Summary of The Invention

It is an object of the present invention to provide compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials having improved optical effects, in particular shine effects.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a composition as described above which is stable over time.

The inventors have found that this object can be achieved by formulating a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising nacre(s), triglyceride(s) of fatty acids, specific ether(s) and dextrin ester.

The invention also relates to a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application, on the keratin materials, of at least one layer of the cosmetic composition described above.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

(i) at least one mother-of-pearl;

(ii) at least one triglyceride of fatty acids, wherein the fatty acids have from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

(iii) at least one ether of formula (II);

R₅-O-R₆formula (II)

Wherein:

R₅and R₆Which may be the same or different, represents a linear or branched C₆-C₂₅An alkyl or alkenyl group; and

(iv) at least one dextrin ester.

The composition is intended per se for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips.

More particularly, another aspect of the present invention is a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for improving the shine effect of keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips.

Surprisingly, the present inventors have found that combining the above ingredients in a composition is suitable for providing an improved optical effect, in particular an instant shine effect, to a keratin material.

Furthermore, the gloss effect is durable.

Preferably, the coverage effect is improved by the present invention.

In addition, the compositions of the present invention are stable over time.

For the purposes of the present invention, "shine effect" means an immediate and long-lasting healthy shine effect, which is understood to mean the natural color of the skin, the improvement of the dull appearance of the complexion (desaturation or coloration and anti-dull complexion effect).

For the purposes of the present invention, "covering effect" means the reduction of imperfections of the keratin materials, such as uneven skin tone, pores, wrinkles or fine lines, and the improvement of the appearance of the keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips.

The gloss effect and the coverage effect of the composition of the present invention were measured using a gloss meter and a colorimeter, respectively.

More specifically, the measurement protocol is as follows:

a 50 micron film of the composition of the invention was applied uniformly on a comparative card (sold under the designation Typ 24/5 by ERICHSEN). After 24 hours, the control cards with the compositions of the invention were measured under a gloss meter and a colorimeter, respectively, to obtain a gloss value representing the immediate effect and a value of L x for calculating the coverage effect.

A GLOSS meter was manufactured by KONICA MINOLTA under the trade name MULTI GLOSS 268 PLUS and the test angle was 60 DEG for the measurement of the present invention.

A colorimeter manufactured under the trade name CHROMA METER CR-400 by KONICA MINOLTA for the measurement of the present invention.

In addition, the long-lasting gloss effect was measured according to the following procedure:

1. applying 100 mg of the composition of the invention to each half of the face of a 12 female model aged 20 to 45 years;

2. the gloss (reflectance) of the female model face was evaluated immediately and after 5 hours under standard room conditions (21 ± 1 ℃. &45 ± 5%) using SAMBA equipment produced by Bossa Nova Technologies.

The higher the gloss value and the coverage value, the better the instant gloss effect and the coverage effect.

The lower the difference between the gloss (reflection) measured immediately and after 5 hours, the better the permanent gloss effect.

Preferably, to achieve the object of the present invention:

gloss value (immediate gloss) is expected to be greater than or equal to 70;

coverage (calculated by L) is expected to be greater than or equal to 70; and

the gloss difference (representing a permanent gloss effect) is expected to be less than or equal to 12.

By "stable over time" is understood that the composition of the invention does not show any macroscopic change in colour, odour or viscosity, any change in pH or any change in microscopic appearance after storage for 2 months at all temperatures between 4 ℃ and 45 ℃.

By "keratin material" is intended human keratin materials such as the skin, lips and nails, in particular the skin and lips, more preferably the skin, in particular the facial skin.

Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following specification and examples.

Hereinafter and unless otherwise stated, the boundaries of the range of values are included within the range, particularly in the expressions "between … …" and "… … to … …".

Further, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Detailed Description

(i) Mother-of-pearl

The composition of the invention comprises at least one nacre.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nacre.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "nacres" refers to coloured particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or synthetic, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

The nacres used in the compositions of the invention may be in lamellar (or flake form), spherical (or globular) form, or any other intermediate form between these specified forms.

In the present patent application, the term "spherical particles" refers to particles in the form of spheres or substantially spheres.

The term "layered particle" or "sheet form" refers herein to a particle of parallelepiped shape (rectangular or square surface), disc shape (circular surface) or ellipsoid shape (elliptical surface) characterized by three dimensions: length, width and height.

The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as iron oxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium oxide-or titanium dioxide-coated mica, chromium oxide-coated mica, tin oxide-coated mica, SnO-coated mica₂Mica coated with BaSO₄Mica, mica coated with organic dye and basePearlescent pigments in bismuth oxychloride.

They may also be mica particles at the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic colorants are superimposed.

Examples of nacres which may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.

In particular, as nacres, mention may be made of flake-type micas coated with titanium oxide and/or iron oxide.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacre Timica sold by the company BASF^®Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by Engelhard, inc, Timiron nacre sold by Merck, Prestige mica-based nacre sold by Eckart, and Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacre sold by Sun Chemical.

The nacres more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper colour or hue.

By way of illustration of the nacres which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the golden nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Brilliant Gold 212g (Timica), Gold 222c (cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233x (cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular sold under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) by the company Merck and under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne) by the company Engelhard; in particular Orange mother-of-pearl sold by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisone) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Session Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown nacres, in particular sold under the name Nu-anticque chip 340xb (cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite) by the company Engelhard; nacres with a Copper flash, in particular sold under the name Copper 340a (timica) by the company Engelhard; nacres with red sparkling, in particular sold under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona) by the company Merck; in particular by EngelharNacre with Yellow sparkling, sold under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite) by company d; red nacre with a gold flash, in particular sold under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) by Engelhard; pink nacre, in particular sold under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone) by the company Engelhard; black nacre with gold sparkling, in particular sold under the name Nu anti breeze 240 ab (timica) by the company Engelhard; blue mother-of-pearl sold in particular under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna) by the company Merck; from BASF corporation under the trade name Timica^®White nacre sold by Terra White MN 4501; from BASF corporation under the trade name Timica^®Black mother-of-pearl sold by Terra Black MN 4498; from BASF corporation under the trade name Timica^®Brown nacre sold by Terra Brown MN 4509; from BASF corporation under the trade name Timica^®Red nacre sold by Terra Red MN 4506; from BASF corporation under the trade name Timica^®Yellow mother-of-pearl sold by Terra Yellow MN 4502; white nacres with a Silver flash, in particular sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver; and in particular the aurora viridis, an orange mother-of-pearl sold under the name Indian summer (Xirona) by the company Merck, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the nacres useful in the present invention are in the form of flakes. More particularly, the nacres are mica flakes, at the surface of which at least two successive metal oxide layers are superimposed.

Nacres of this type are commercially available, for example under the name Timica from BASF^®Terra White MN4501, a White powder.

Advantageously, the nacres are present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(ii) Triglycerides of fatty acids

The composition of the invention comprises at least one triglyceride of fatty acids each independently having from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Triglycerides have the general formula (I):

CH₂(OOCR₁)CH(OOCR₂)CH₂(OOCR₃) （I）

wherein R is₁、R₂And R₃Usually of different chain lengths, but may be the same, e.g. C₄-C₃₀More typically C₆-C₂₄。

Examples of triglycerides are given in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook. Triglycerides of fatty acids are esters of glycerol.

Preferred glyceride fatty esters have a carbon chain length of C₆To C₂₄Preferably C₇To C₂₂More preferably C₇To C₁₈Linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Synthetic triglycerides include, but are not limited to, glycerol triethylhexanoate, glycerol trimyristate, glycerol trioleate, glycerol tristearate, and glycerol trilaurate.

Glyceride fatty esters of vegetable origin are particularly preferred, and specific examples of preferred materials as a source of glyceride fatty esters include peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil and sunflower seed oil. Coconut oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred, especially coconut oil.

In one embodiment, the triglyceride of fatty acids is a liquid.

"liquid triglycerides of fatty acids" means fatty acid triglycerides in liquid form at 20 ℃ and atmospheric pressure (typically at 101325 Pa).

In one embodiment, the triglycerides of liquid fatty acids contain 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, caprylic acid, or for example sunflower, corn, soybean, cucurbita pepo, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, alaa, sunflower, castor and avocado oils, caprylic/capric triglycerideEsters, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or under the name Miglyol^®810. 812 and 818, jojoba oil and shea butter.

Representative triglycerides include glyceryl esters of heptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid, adipic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the fatty acids of the triglycerides have 6 to 12 carbon atoms.

In one embodiment, the triglyceride is selected from C₆To C₁₂Triglycerides including triheptanoin, capric triglyceride, caprylic triglyceride, triethylhexanoic triglyceride, trimyristin, triolein, tristearic and trilaurin, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of the component glycerol triethylhexanoate, such as the product sold under the name Nikkol Trifat S308 by the company Nihon Surfactant.

In one embodiment, the triglyceride of fatty acids is present in the composition in an amount of 0.05 to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

(iii) Ethers useful in the compositions of the invention

The composition of the invention comprises at least one ether of formula (II),

R₅-O-R₆formula (II)

In formula (II):

R₅and R₆Which may be the same or different, represents a linear or branched C₆-C₂₅An alkyl or alkenyl group.

Preferably, the ether of formula (II) is selected from the group R₅And R₆Which may be the same or different, represents a linear or branched C₆-C₁₂Alkyl or alkenyl groups.

More particularly, according to the invention, the radical R₅And R₆Are the same.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the preferred dialkyl ether is selected from di-n-hexyl ether, di-n-heptyl ether, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, diisodecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, di-n-tetradecyl ether, di-n-hexadecyl ether, di-n-octadecyl ether or mixtures thereof.

R₅And R₆Preferably represents C₈A group.

These compounds can be prepared according to the process described in patent application DE 4127230.

Most preferably, the ether of formula (II) is di-n-octyl ether (INCI name: dioctyl ether). Such products are commercially available, for example those sold under the name Cetiol OE by the company Cognis (BASF) or those sold under the name Rofetan OE by the company Ecogleen Oleochogicals.

Advantageously, the ether of formula (II) is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

(iv) Dextrin esters

According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one dextrin ester, preferably an ester of dextrin with a fatty acid.

According to the invention, the dextrin ester is preferably an ester of dextrin with a fatty acid, said fatty acid being a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁₂To C₂₄A fatty acid.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is dextrin with C₁₄-C₁₈Esters of fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid or mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made of dextrin palmitate, for example as described by CHIBA FLOUR under the reference RHEOPEARL KL2^®Those sold by OR, dextrin myristate, for example under the designation Rheopearl MKL2 by CHIBA FLOUR^®Those sold, or mixtures thereof.

According to yet another preferred embodiment, the ester of dextrin with fatty acids according to the invention is dextrin myristate.

Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of at least one dextrin ester, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

(i) 1 to 10% by weight of at least one nacre;

(ii) 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one triglyceride of fatty acids, wherein the fatty acids have 4 to 30 carbon atoms, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

(iii) 1 to 15% by weight of at least one ether of formula (II);

R₅-O-R₆formula (II)

Wherein:

(iv) 0.1 to 5% by weight of at least one dextrin ester,

wherein the amount is relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention may be in various forms, for example suspensions, dispersions, solutions, gels, emulsions such as oil-in-water (O/W), water-in-oil (W/O) and multiple (e.g. W/O/W, polyol/O/W and O/W/O) emulsions, creams, foams, sticks, dispersions of vesicles (e.g. vesicles of ionic and/or non-ionic lipids), bi-or multiphase lotions, sprays, powders and pastes. The composition may be anhydrous, for example it may be an anhydrous paste or stick. The composition may also be a leave-on composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a liquid composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous fatty phase.

Fat phase

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase, preferably a liquid fatty phase.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of an emulsion.

In particular, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, in particular at least one oil, which is different from the ingredients listed above.

The term "oil" refers to any fat body that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure.

These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating from the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil and is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil has an evaporation rate of 0.01 to 200 mg/cm/min (inclusive).

The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibres at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, the fixed oil has an evaporation rate strictly lower than 0.01 mg/cm/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 grams of the oil or oil mixture to be tested was placed in a 7 cm diameter crystallization dish placed on a balance in a large 0.3 cubic meter chamber adjusted in temperature at 25 ℃ and humidity at 50% relative humidity. The liquid was allowed to evaporate freely without stirring while providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, number 8550N, spinning at 2700 rpm) placed vertically above the dish containing the solvent, with the blade directed towards the dish, 20 cm from the bottom of the dish. The quality of the oil remaining in the crystallization dish was measured periodically. The evaporation rate is expressed in milligrams of oil evaporated per unit area (square centimeter) and per unit time (minute).

Oils suitable for the present invention may be additional hydrocarbon-based oils (other than the above-described ingredients), silicone-based or fluorine-based.

According to the invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular comprising at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil comprising primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

As additional hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of volatile oils, such as C₈-C₁₆Alkanes, such as dodecane, tetradecane; non-volatile oils, such as hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, esters of dimer diols and dimer diacids, copolymers of dimer diols and dimer diacids and esters thereof, copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids, fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, C₁₂-C₂₂Higher fatty acids, in particular oils of higher molar mass having a molar mass of from about 400 to about 10,000 g/mol, lipophilic polymers, hydroxylated esters, aromatic esters, C₂₄-C₂₈Esters of branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

As the silicone oil, there may be mentioned:

linear or cyclic volatile oils, especially those having a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8X 10)^-6 m²S), and in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms;

linear or cyclic non-volatile Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups as side groups or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; such as cyclohexasiloxane, available under the trade name Silsoft 1217 from Momentive Performance Materials;

phenylsilicones, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxane and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate, such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid by Dow Corning;

and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil is selected from linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, phenylsilicones, more preferably from cyclohexasiloxanes, phenyl trimethicones or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, when present, the additional oil (excluding the oils of (ii) and (iii) as claimed above) is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the fatty phase is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The compositions of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature: 25 ℃), for example a monoalcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; in particular polyols containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (in particular having 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as monopropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or tripropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers, monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or triethylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase may also contain a stabilizer.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with the aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in an amount of from 20% to 85% by weight, in particular from 30% to 75% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

Film forming agent

Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises at least one film-forming agent.

The film former is preferably selected from hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins.

Hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins useful according to various embodiments of the present disclosure include, by way of example only, one or more selected from hydrogenated styrene/methylstyrene/indene copolymers, hydrogenated polycyclopentadienes, and mixtures thereof.

Exemplary commercially available hydrogenated hydrocarbon resin products that can be used include, but are not limited to, Regalite, tradename by Eastman Chemical Company^TMProducts sold, for example, as R1090, R1100, R7100, S1100 and S5100 (hydrogenated styrene/methylstyrene/indene copolymers); available under the trade name Eastotac from Eastman Chemical Company^TMAnd Regalrez^TME.g. Regalrez^TM1085 (hydrogenated hydrocarbon resin, Mw about 1000); and Koboguard by Kobo Products under the trade name Koboguard^®E.g. Koboguard^®5400 IDD products such as hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene.

According to various embodiments of the present disclosure, the at least one hydrogenated hydrocarbon resin may have a molecular weight of 500 to 1500, such as 500 to 1200. In at least one exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure, the molecular weight is 500 to 900.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a hydrogenated styrene/methylstyrene/indene copolymer as film-forming agent.

According to one embodiment, when present, the amount of film forming agent in the composition of the invention is from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Pigment (I)

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one pigment.

"pigments" are white or colored, organic or inorganic non-interfering particles that are insoluble in aqueous and non-aqueous media and are intended to color the composition.

Nacres (natural or non-natural), metallic pigments, interference pigments, etc., are therefore not included in this respect.

Inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

Organic pigments which can be used according to the invention include D & C pigments, lakes based on cochineal and on barium, strontium, calcium and aluminium, or Diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) as described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

According to a preferred embodiment, inorganic pigments will be used, more particularly selected from titanium oxide and iron oxide (in particular yellow, black and red iron oxide), advantageously coated with at least one hydrophobizing agent.

The pigments of the invention are preferably completely or partially surface-treated with hydrophobicizing agents, more particularly with fluorine-containing compounds, fatty acids or amino acids, or silicone compounds or mixtures thereof.

Their initial particle size D [0.5] is in particular less than 20 microns, preferably from 0.4 to 10 microns, inclusive.

For example, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow acyl glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates and polyhexafluoropropylene oxide; a perfluoropolyether; an amino acid; an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearate, isostearyl sebacate and silicone compounds such as dimethicone or polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophobic treatment agent is preferably selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, perfluoropolyethers, amino acids, N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the hydrophobic agent is selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to chemical, electronic, chemi-mechanical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to the skilled person. It is also possible to use commercial products.

The surfactant can be absorbed or adsorbed onto the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and formation of covalent bonds.

According to one version, the surface treatment comprises a coating of pigment.

The coating may comprise 0.1 to 10 wt% and more particularly 1 to 5 wt% of the total weight of the coating pigment.

For example, the coating can be carried out by adsorbing a liquid surfactant on the surface of the pigment, optionally under hot conditions, by simple mixing with stirring of the pigment and said surfactant, before mixing the pigment into the other ingredients of the care or make-up composition.

For example, the coating can be performed by chemical reaction of the surfactant with the surface of the pigment and formation of covalent bonds between the surfactant and the pigment. This process is described in particular in patent US 4,578,266.

Amino acid or fatty acid treatment agent

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow acyl glutamate; an amino acid; an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearate (otherwise known as ITT), and mixtures thereof.

The N-acyl amino acid may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as a 2-ethylhexanoyl group, a hexanoyl group, a lauroyl group, a myristoyl group, a palmitoyl group, a stearoyl group, or a cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The fatty acid in the present invention is more particularly an acid having a hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 18 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon chain may be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

Examples of pigments coated with fatty acids include those containing the disodium stearoyl glutamate/aluminum hydroxide pair, sold in particular by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the trade names NAI-TAO-77891, NAI-C33-8073-10, NAI-C33-8075, NAI-C47-051-10, NAI-C33-115, NAI-C33-134, NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10, NAI-C33-9001-10.

Examples of pigments treated with isopropyltitanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold by Kobo under the tradenames BWBO-12 (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyltitanium triisostearate), BWYO-12 (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyltitanium triisostearate), and BWRO-12 (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyltitanium triisostearate).

Preferably, a disodium stearoyl glutamate/aluminum hydroxide coated pigment is used in the present invention.

Preferably, when present, the pigment is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from 1 to 30 wt%, preferably from 2 to 25 wt% and more preferably from 5 to 20 wt% of the total weight of the composition.

Method and use

Another aspect of the invention is a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, using the composition of the invention as described above.

The process according to the invention for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprises the application, on the keratin material, of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The method of the present invention can improve optical cosmetic effects such as instant gloss effects without deteriorating other cosmetic effects.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for improving the optical effect of keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips, more particularly the skin.

Preferably, the optical effect comprises an immediate gloss effect, in addition to a permanent gloss effect and a covering effect.

It is understood that the skilled person can select the appropriate presentation form and the method of preparation thereof, based on his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the ingredients used (e.g. their solubility in the carrier) and the application envisaged for the composition.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions and methods of the present invention, but not to limit the scope of the invention in any way.

Examples

I. Preparation of

Preparation of inventive formulation 1 and comparative formulations 1, 2 and 3:

comparative formulation 1 contained silylated silica in place of the dextrin ester of the present invention;

comparative formulation 2 contains oleyl tridecyl trimellitate instead of components (ii) and (iii) of the present invention;

comparative formulation 3 does not contain the claimed nacres (i).

The inventive and comparative formulations were prepared according to the following procedure:

heat phase B to 90 ℃ until homogenization,

grinding phase C at room temperature to obtain a ground phase,

mixing phase A, phase B and phase C until homogenization at room temperature,

phase D was added to a homogenizer, Turbolab 2500, manufactured by PIERRE GUERIN TECHNOLOGIES, Inc.

Evaluation of inventive and comparative formulations

The gloss effect and stability of the inventive and comparative formulations listed above after application on keratin materials were evaluated using the following protocol.

Method for evaluating the instant gloss of the compositions of the inventive and comparative formulations:

films of the formulation were applied separately to the control cards at a thickness of 50 microns, and the cards with the formulation were dried at room temperature (20-25 ℃) for 24 hours, followed by measurement of gloss values using a gloss meter at 60 ℃.

Evaluation inventionMethod for long lasting gloss of the formulation:

For the purposes of the present invention, it is expected that the smaller the change in gloss between instant and 5 hours, the better the permanent gloss effect observed.

Method for evaluating coverage of inventive and comparative formulations:

a 50 micron thick film of the formulation was applied to each of the control cards, the cards with the formulation were dried at room temperature (20-25 ℃) for 24 hours, then L x values were measured on the black and white areas of the control cards with a colorimeter, and then the in vitro coverage was calculated using the following formula,

The lower the difference between the gloss measured immediately and after 5 hours, the better the long-lasting gloss effect.

Preferably, to achieve the object of the present invention:

gloss value (immediate gloss) is expected to be greater than or equal to 70;

coverage (calculated by L) is expected to be greater than or equal to 70; and

Methods to evaluate the stability of inventive and comparative formulations:

the inventive and comparative formulations were maintained at 4 deg.C, 37 deg.C and 45 deg.C for 2 months. They were also placed in an oven for 7 days, with the temperature changing continuously from-20 ℃ to 20 ℃ every 6 hours.

The evaluation results are as follows.

From the above results it was observed that all formulations were stable at different temperatures.

Unlike comparative formulations 1, 2 and 3, inventive formulation 1 has improved instant gloss effect and improved coverage. Comparative formulations 1, 2 and 3 were not satisfactory in one or both of the above evaluations of effects.

Finally, inventive formulation 1 was observed to have a good long-lasting shine effect.

Claims

1. Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

(i) at least one mother-of-pearl;

(iii) at least one ether of formula (II);

R₅-O-R₆formula (II)

Wherein:

R₅and R₆Which are the same or different, represent a linear or branched C₆-C₂₅An alkyl or alkenyl group; and

(iv) at least one dextrin ester, wherein the dextrin ester is a dextrin with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁₂To C₂₄Esters of fatty acids.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein said nacres are selected from the group consisting of iron oxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium dioxide-coated mica, chromium oxide-coated mica, SnO-coated mica₂Mica coated with BaSO₄Mica, organic dye-coated cloudsMother, bismuth oxychloride based pearlescent pigments, or mixtures thereof.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein said nacres are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the triglyceride of fatty acids is selected from the group consisting of compounds of formula (I),

CH₂(OOCR₁)CH(OOCR₂)CH₂(OOCR₃) （I）

wherein R is₁、R₂And R₃Same or different, is a compound containing C₆-C₂₄Carbon chain of carbon atoms.

5. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the triglyceride of fatty acids is selected from the group consisting of triheptanoin, capric triglyceride, caprylic triglyceride, triethylhexanoic triglyceride, trimyristin, triolein, tristearic and trilaurin, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the triglycerides of fatty acids are present in the composition in an amount of 0.05 wt.% to 20 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein in formula (II):

R₅-O-R₆formula (II)

Wherein:

radical R₅And R₆Which are the same or different, represent a linear or branched C₆-C₁₂An alkyl or alkenyl group.

8. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the ether (iii) of formula (II) is selected from dialkyl ethers.

9. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the ether of formula (II) is present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1 wt% to 20 wt% by weight of the composition.

10. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the dextrin ester is dextrin with C₁₄-C₁₈Esters of fatty acids.

11. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the dextrin ester is present in the composition in an amount of from 0.01 wt% to 10 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

(i) 1 to 10% by weight of at least one nacre;

(ii) 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one triglyceride of fatty acids, wherein the fatty acids have from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

(iii) 1 to 15% by weight of at least one ether of formula (II);

R₅-O-R₆formula (II)

Wherein:

(iv) 0.1 to 5% by weight of at least one dextrin ester, wherein the dextrin ester is a dextrin with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁₂To C₂₄An ester of a fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is,

wherein the amount is relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition of claim 1 or 12, further comprising at least one film-forming agent.

14. The composition of claim 1 or 12, further comprising at least one pigment.

15. The composition according to claim 2, wherein said nacres are chosen from mica superimposed at its surface with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic colorants.

16. The composition of claim 2, wherein said nacres are selected from the group consisting of flake-type micas coated with titanium oxide and/or iron oxide.

17. The composition of claim 3, wherein said nacres are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition of claim 5 wherein the triglyceride of fatty acids is selected from the group consisting of triethylhexanoic acid glycerol ester.

19. The composition of claim 6, wherein the triglycerides of fatty acids are present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 wt.% to 10 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition.

20. The composition of claim 8, wherein the ether (iii) of formula (II) is selected from the group consisting of di-n-hexyl ether, di-n-heptyl ether, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, diisodecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, di-n-tetradecyl ether, di-n-hexadecyl ether, di-n-octadecyl ether, or mixtures thereof.

21. The composition of claim 9, wherein the ether of formula (II) is present in the composition in an amount of from 1% to 15% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

22. The composition of claim 10, wherein the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, or a mixture thereof.

23. The composition of claim 11, wherein the dextrin ester is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 wt% to 5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

24. The composition of claim 13 wherein the film former is selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins.

25. The composition of claim 13, wherein the film former is selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated styrene/methylstyrene/indene copolymers, hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, or mixtures thereof.

26. The composition of claim 14 wherein the pigment is selected from inorganic pigments.

27. The composition of claim 14 wherein the pigment is selected from the group consisting of titanium oxide and iron oxide.

28. The composition of claim 14, wherein the pigment is coated with at least one hydrophobic agent.

29. The composition of claim 14 wherein the pigment is selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments comprising fatty acid coated titanium oxide and iron oxide paired with disodium stearoyl glutamate/aluminum hydroxide.

30. The composition of claim 1, wherein said nacres are selected from the group consisting of titanium oxide coated mica, tin oxide coated mica.

31. Method for the non-therapeutic care and/or make-up of keratin materials, characterized in that a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 30 is applied.

32. Non-therapeutic use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 30 for improving the optical effect of a keratin material.

33. The non-therapeutic use according to claim 32, wherein the keratin materials are the skin and lips.