JP5833269B1 - Lightweight high density fabric with breathability - Google Patents

Lightweight high density fabric with breathability Download PDF

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JP5833269B1
JP5833269B1 JP2015139117A JP2015139117A JP5833269B1 JP 5833269 B1 JP5833269 B1 JP 5833269B1 JP 2015139117 A JP2015139117 A JP 2015139117A JP 2015139117 A JP2015139117 A JP 2015139117A JP 5833269 B1 JP5833269 B1 JP 5833269B1
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gap
fabric
woven fabric
air permeability
pattern
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JP2017020133A (en
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小野寺 忠人
忠人 小野寺
肇 刀根
肇 刀根
克機 高橋
克機 高橋
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Toyobo STC Co Ltd
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Abstract

【課題】フィラメント糸で構成された軽量高密度織物に発汗時の蒸れ防止のために適度な通気性を確保した隙間を設けるが、かかるフィラメント織物に隙間を設けることで生じるメヨレや縫い目滑脱を防止した織物を提供する。【解決手段】カバーファクターが1550〜2300であり、目付が15〜55g/m2である軽量高密度織物であって、織物に隙間によって形成された柄が存在し、以下の(i)〜(iv)の条件を満足することを特徴とする織物:(i)隙間率が0.5〜14%であること;(ii)隙間間の距離が3.5〜50mmであること;(iii)隙間部の両際の組織がヒラ組織であること;及び(iv)隙間が、難溶解性繊維と交織された易溶解性繊維を全面的にまたは部分的に溶解除去して得られたものであること。【選択図】図5An object of the present invention is to provide a lightweight high-density fabric composed of filament yarns with a gap that ensures adequate breathability to prevent stuffiness during sweating, but prevents such slippage and slippage caused by providing a gap in the filament fabric. A woven fabric is provided. A lightweight high density woven fabric having a cover factor of 1550 to 2300 and a basis weight of 15 to 55 g / m 2, wherein a pattern formed by a gap exists in the woven fabric, and the following (i) to (iv) ) Satisfying the following conditions: (i) The gap ratio is 0.5 to 14%; (ii) The distance between the gaps is 3.5 to 50 mm; (iii) The gap And (iv) the gaps are obtained by completely or partially dissolving and removing the easily soluble fibers interwoven with the hardly soluble fibers. thing. [Selection] Figure 5

Description

本発明は、高密度に織ることによって適度な防風性がありながら、織物表面に隙間が視覚的に見え、その隙間により部分的に通気性を持たせた軽量高密度織物、及びこれを使用した繊維製品に関する。本発明の織物は、特にアウトドアウェア、スポーツウェア、カジュアルウェア、または寝袋に使用するのに好適なものである。   The present invention uses a lightweight high-density fabric in which a gap is visually visible on the surface of the fabric while being moderately windproof by weaving at a high density, and a portion of the gap is made breathable. It relates to textile products. The fabric of the present invention is particularly suitable for use in outdoor wear, sportswear, casual wear, or sleeping bags.

活動して発汗し易い衣料用途には、スポーツウェア;ウォーキング、ハイキング、トレッキング、登山等のアウトドアウェアがあり、これらほどの発汗は少ない衣料用途として、シャツ、パンツ、ブルゾン等のカジュアルウェアがある。   Apparel that is likely to sweat when active is sportswear; outdoor wear such as walking, hiking, trekking, mountain climbing, etc. Casual apparel such as shirts, pants, and blousons are examples of clothing that do not sweat as much.

一般にスポーツウェア、アウトドアウェアの用途には、強く、軽く、防風性、撥水防水性、保温性、吸水速乾性、伸縮性等の機能性のある織物が求められる。さらに、耐磨耗性、滑脱抵抗力、撥水性、防水性、透湿性等に関しては、繰返しの着用や洗濯でも容易に劣化しない耐久性に富む、品質の安定した織物が求められる。このため、強力や染色堅牢性に優れたナイロンやポリエステルのフィラメント糸が一般的に用いられる。   In general, sportswear and outdoor wear are required to be strong, light, windproof, water repellent and waterproof, heat-retaining, water-absorbing quick-drying, stretchable and other functional fabrics. Furthermore, with respect to abrasion resistance, sliding resistance, water repellency, waterproofness, moisture permeability, and the like, there is a demand for a woven fabric with stable durability that does not easily deteriorate even after repeated wearing or washing. For this reason, nylon and polyester filament yarns having excellent strength and dyeing fastness are generally used.

軽量なダウンプルーフ織物には織物中で隙間のほとんどない細繊度のフィラメント織物が好適に用いられる。また、肌離れ性の良さを求められるウィンドブレーカ用や、コーティングやラミネートとの浸透性、接着性の良さを求められる雨衣用には、織物の表面が凹凸になり易い仮撚加工糸が好適に用いられる。紡績糸は撚糸された糸であり、メヨレしにくい織物が得られ易いが、糸強力の低さから軽量で丈夫な織物には不向きで殆ど使用されない。撚糸織物は、撚糸で集束された糸の捩れのため低密度でもメヨレしにくい良さがあるが、撚糸時の撚縮みや加工収縮の大きさから目付が増え、かつ高密度のヒラ織物でも繊維間の隙間が多過ぎて通気度が高過ぎること、繊維への樹脂の浸透性が阻害されるため接着性が悪いことから、これらの用途には殆ど使用されることはない。   For a lightweight down-proof fabric, a filament fabric having a fineness with almost no gap in the fabric is preferably used. For windbreakers that require good skin separation, and raincoats that require good permeability and adhesion to coatings and laminates, false-twisted yarns that are prone to uneven surfaces are preferred. Used. The spun yarn is a twisted yarn, and it is easy to obtain a woven fabric that is difficult to fold. However, the spun yarn is not suitable for a lightweight and durable fabric because of its low yarn strength, and is hardly used. Twisted yarn fabrics have the advantage that they are difficult to fold even at low density due to twisted yarns gathered by twisted yarns, but the fabric weight is increased due to the amount of twist shrinkage and processing shrinkage at the time of twisting, and even in high-density flat fabrics, Since there are too many gaps and the air permeability is too high, and the permeability of the resin to the fibers is hindered, the adhesiveness is poor, so they are rarely used for these applications.

ダウンプルーフ用は高密度織物であり、低通気性を得るために経緯ともハイマルチ糸を無撚糸で用いる。これは、糸に施撚すると見かけ繊度が細くなり、無撚糸と同密度の織物では織物内で空間が多くなり、通気度が増し、ダウンプルーフ性が大きく低下するためである。ハイマルチ無撚糸は柔軟で、織物組織内で多層構造体になった際に外力がかかると容易に動き、ソフト風合になる反面、メヨレし易くなるという欠点を有する。従って、ダウンプルーフ織物は、繰返しの着用や洗濯によってメヨレしないように高密度化が必須になる。   The down proof is a high-density fabric, and high multi yarn is used as a non-twisted yarn in order to obtain low air permeability. This is because when the yarn is twisted, the apparent fineness is reduced, and in the woven fabric having the same density as the untwisted yarn, space is increased in the woven fabric, the air permeability is increased, and the down-proof property is greatly reduced. High multi-twisted yarns are flexible and have a disadvantage that they easily move and soft when they are subjected to an external force when a multi-layer structure is formed in the woven fabric, but tend to be soft. Therefore, it is essential to increase the density of the down-proof fabric so that it does not fray due to repeated wearing or washing.

また、仮撚加工糸織物において撥水性のみが必要なウィンドブレーカや、カジュアルシャツ、パンツ、ブルゾン用には、メヨレしないような高密度織物が必要である。一方、コーティング用は、樹脂漏れがないように無撚糸の織物にすればよく、樹脂によって繊維が固着されてメヨレしにくくなるため、必要以上の高密度化は不要となる。   Further, a high-density woven fabric that does not have a need for a windbreaker, casual shirt, pants, and blouson that requires only water repellency is required for false twisted yarn fabric. On the other hand, the coating material may be a non-twisted woven fabric so that there is no resin leakage, and the fibers are fixed by the resin and difficult to fray.

但し、これらの用途、特にウィンドブレーカ用では、上記機能性のほか、発汗した場合、速やかに吸汗して外に蒸散させ、同時に衣服内の温湿度を速やかに放散させ、衣服内温湿度を下げるようなウェアとしての快適性が求められる。更に、汗が引き、衣服内の温湿度を下げた後は体が冷え過ぎないよう適度な防風性を有する製品であることが必要である。   However, in these applications, especially for windbreakers, in addition to the above functionality, if sweating, sweat quickly and evaporate to the outside, and at the same time quickly dissipate the temperature and humidity in the clothing, lowering the temperature and humidity in the clothing Comfort as such wear is required. Furthermore, after sweating and lowering the temperature and humidity in the clothes, it is necessary that the product has an appropriate windproof property so that the body does not get too cold.

リュックを背負うことの多いアウトドア用ウェアでは、特に肩、背中や腋の下部に発汗が多い。発汗による蒸れを防止するために防風性の織物にこれらの部位、特に腋の下にトリコットメッシュを縫い合わせた製品が多い。トリコットメッシュ自体は風通しが良く見た目に涼しそうであるが、防風効果が殆どなく汗を引いた後では体温を低下させ過ぎ、好ましくない。そのためトリコットメッシュ複合の高通気性製品は汎用性が低い。   In outdoor wear that often carries a backpack, there is a lot of sweating, especially on the shoulders, back, and lower heels. There are many products in which a tricot mesh is sewn to these parts, particularly under the heel, in a windproof fabric to prevent sweating from sweating. The tricot mesh itself seems to be well-ventilated and cool to the eye, but it is not preferable because it has little wind-proofing effect and the body temperature is lowered too much after sweating. Therefore, the highly breathable product of the tricot mesh composite has low versatility.

寝袋においては、ダウン以外の不織布等が使用されている場合、蒸れ感解消や汗、結露、雨滴等を吸った際の速乾性が求められ、側地は高通気性の織物であることが好ましい。   In the sleeping bag, when non-down non-woven fabrics are used, it is desired to eliminate stuffiness and quick-drying when sucking sweat, condensation, raindrops, etc., and the side is preferably a highly breathable fabric .

このような背景から、汗が引いた後は体を冷やし過ぎないような適度な防風性を有し、発汗時の蒸れ感を解消できる適度な通気性を有する織物が求められている。   From such a background, there is a demand for a fabric that has an appropriate windproof property so as not to cool the body excessively after the sweat is drawn, and an appropriate air permeability that can eliminate the stuffiness when sweating.

通気性を有する織物について先行文献として、例えば以下のような特許文献が挙げられる。
特許文献1は、吸湿発熱性繊維を用いた1〜50cm/cm・sの通気度を有する織物を提案する。この織物は、発汗時に発熱を伴うため、瞬時に体温を下げたい時に発熱し、不快感を継続させてしまい、体温変化に即応しきれない欠点がある。また、目付は、実施例、比較例において80〜82g/mであり、軽量性に欠くものである。
For example, the following patent documents can be cited as prior documents regarding the fabric having air permeability.
Patent Document 1 proposes a woven fabric having an air permeability of 1 to 50 cm 3 / cm 2 · s using hygroscopic exothermic fibers. Since this fabric generates heat when sweating, it generates heat when it is desired to lower the body temperature instantaneously, causing discomfort and continuing to respond to changes in body temperature. In addition, the basis weight is 80 to 82 g / m 2 in Examples and Comparative Examples, which is lacking in lightness.

特許文献2は、抜食によって部分的に異なる通気度を有する布帛を提案する。しかしながら、目付は、実施例、比較例において240〜260g/mと高く、軽量性に欠くものである。 Patent Document 2 proposes a fabric having partially different air permeability due to biting. However, the basis weight is as high as 240 to 260 g / m 2 in Examples and Comparative Examples, and lacks in light weight.

特許文献3は、樹脂を塗布したダウンプルーフ織物を提案する。比較例3にコーティングなしで通気度10.1cm/cm・sの織物の記載があるが、縫い目ずれが4.4mmと不良である。 Patent Document 3 proposes a down-proof fabric coated with a resin. In Comparative Example 3, there is a description of a woven fabric having an air permeability of 10.1 cm 3 / cm 2 · s without coating, but the seam deviation is as bad as 4.4 mm.

アルカリ減量速度の速い変性ポリエステルを用いた抜食(オパール)による透かし効果を得る方法が広く知られている。
特許文献4は、アルカリ減量速度の異なる2種以上のポリエステル系繊維を組み合せて使用した複合糸よりなる織物を抜食加工して透かし模様を得ることを提案する。この織物は、アルカリ減量速度の遅いポリエステルが残存するため、隙間によって通気性を確保したものとはならない。
A method for obtaining a watermark effect by biting (opal) using a modified polyester having a high alkali weight loss rate is widely known.
Patent Document 4 proposes to obtain a watermark pattern by removing a woven fabric made of a composite yarn using a combination of two or more kinds of polyester fibers having different alkali weight loss rates. In this woven fabric, polyester having a low alkali weight loss rate remains, and therefore, the air permeability is not ensured by the gap.

特許文献5は、アルカリ減量速度の異なる2種以上のポリエステル系繊維を含む織物に抜食加工を行い、透かし模様を得る方法を提案する。特に、実施例では緯糸にアルカリ減量速度の速い50dと遅い50dを2本ずつ交互に織り込んだタフタに抜食を施す方法について記載されている。しかしながら、抜食によって透かし効果が得られた以外に織物の物性の詳細が不明である。つまり、通気度、織物の密度や滑脱抵抗力、目付、引裂強力及び用途についての記述がなく、これらについて関心がない。この織物は、比較的感性で着こなすことの多い婦人衣料や、比較的弱い滑脱抵抗力でも実用性のある裏地、寝装用には適正があっても、リュックやバック、岩や枝との擦過の激しい使用条件に晒されるスポーツやアウトドア等のウェア用としては不適切である。   Patent Document 5 proposes a method of obtaining a watermark pattern by subjecting a woven fabric containing two or more types of polyester fibers having different alkali weight loss rates. In particular, the embodiment describes a method of performing etching on a taffeta in which weft yarns are alternately woven with two 50d and 50d slow alkali reduction rates. However, the details of the physical properties of the woven fabric are unclear except that the watermark effect is obtained by eating. That is, there is no description about air permeability, fabric density, slip resistance, basis weight, tear strength, and use, and there is no interest in these. This fabric is relatively sensitive and often worn with women's clothing, a lining that is practical even with a relatively low slip resistance, and is suitable for bedding, but it can be worn against a backpack, back, rocks and branches. It is not suitable for sportswear or outdoor wear that is exposed to intense use conditions.

特許文献6は、常圧カチオン可染型変性ポリエステル繊維を用いた抜食方法を提案し、実施例1、比較例1では75dのポリエステルの丸編、実施例2、比較例2では40〜50dの3種の素材を用いた丸編が記載されている。特に、柄のシャープ性表現、交編素材であるポリウレタン繊維の劣化を防ぐことを目的とする。ゲージ数、目付、通気度についての記載はないが、ニットであり、通気性が高く、適度な防風性能を持たないことは容易に想像される。   Patent Document 6 proposes a feeding method using a normal pressure cationic dyeable modified polyester fiber. In Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, a 75 d polyester circular knitting, in Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, 40 to 50 d. A circular knitting using three kinds of materials is described. In particular, the object is to express the sharpness of the pattern and prevent the deterioration of polyurethane fibers, which are knitted materials. Although there is no description about the number of gauges, basis weight, and air permeability, it is easily imagined that it is knit, has high air permeability, and does not have appropriate windproof performance.

特許文献7は、2種以上の繊維からなり、抜食により透け感を有し、抜食部がナイロン繊維、非抜食部が主にポリエステル系繊維からなる層と主にナイロン繊維からなる層とによって構成された布帛を提案する。実施例、比較例では多層構造を構成する経編のリバーシブル組織が記載されており、厚みは1〜2mmである。通気度、目付の記載はないが、厚みのある多層構造体であることから軽量に欠けることは容易に想像される。   Patent Document 7 is composed of two or more types of fibers, has a sense of sheerness due to extraction, a layer where the extraction portion is made of nylon fibers, a non-emission portion is mainly made of polyester fibers, and a layer made mainly of nylon fibers. The fabric comprised by these is proposed. In Examples and Comparative Examples, warp knitted reversible structures constituting a multilayer structure are described, and the thickness is 1 to 2 mm. Although there is no description of air permeability and basis weight, it is easily imagined that it is light in weight because it is a thick multilayer structure.

特開2006−274493号公報JP 2006-274493 A 特開2008−121157号公報JP 2008-121157 A 特開2011−021309号公報JP 2011-021309 A 特開平5−263375号公報JP-A-5-263375 特開昭55−90673号公報JP 55-90673 A 特開2000−282377号公報JP 2000-282377 A 特許第5006792号Patent No. 5006792

本発明は、上記の従来技術の現状に鑑み創案されたものであり、その目的は、フィラメント糸で構成された軽量高密度織物に発汗時の蒸れ防止のために適度な通気性を確保した隙間を設けるが、かかるフィラメント織物に隙間を設けることで生じるメヨレや縫い目滑脱を防止した織物、及びそれを使用した繊維製品を提供することにある。また、隙間を空けることで涼感性の高さを印象づけられるような視覚的な隙間効果を有する織物を提供することも目的とする。   The present invention was devised in view of the current state of the prior art described above, and its purpose is to provide a lightweight high-density fabric composed of filament yarns with a moderate air permeability to prevent stuffiness during sweating. However, the present invention is to provide a woven fabric which prevents the slippage and slippage caused by providing a gap in the filament woven fabric, and a textile product using the woven fabric. Another object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric having a visual gap effect that gives a impression of high coolness by making a gap.

本発明者らは、上記の目的を達成するために鋭意検討した結果、防風性を有する軽量高密度織物において、適度な通気性を与える隙間を設けたうえで、隙間率(隙間の大きさ)と隙間間の距離(柄のサイズ)を特定の範囲に規定し、更に隙間部の両際の組織をヒラ組織にすることによって、隙間を設けたことで生じるメヨレや縫い目滑脱を防止しながら、適度な通気性と防風性を有する軽量高密度織物を提供できることを見出した。また、難溶解性繊維と易溶解性繊維を交織し、易溶解性繊維のみを全面的に又は部分的に溶解除去することによって、格子柄、ストライプ柄、ボーダー柄などの隙間で涼感性に優れた視覚的デザインが得られることを見出した。   As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the inventors of the present invention have provided a gap that gives appropriate air permeability in a lightweight high-density fabric having windproof properties, and then a gap ratio (gap size). And the distance between the gaps (pattern size) is defined in a specific range, and the structure on both sides of the gaps is made into a flattened structure, preventing the slippage and seam slippage caused by providing the gaps, It has been found that a lightweight high-density fabric having moderate air permeability and windproof properties can be provided. In addition, by interweaving hardly soluble fibers and easily soluble fibers, and by dissolving or removing only the easily soluble fibers entirely or partially, it has excellent cool sensation in gaps such as lattice patterns, stripe patterns, border patterns, etc. I found that a good visual design can be obtained.

本発明は、上記の知見に基づいて完成されたものであり、以下の(1)〜()の構成を有するものである。
(1)カバーファクターが1550〜2300であり、目付が15〜55g/mである軽量高密度織物であって、織物に隙間によって形成された柄が存在し、以下の(i)〜(iii)の条件を満足することを特徴とする織物:
(i)隙間率が経緯ともに0.5〜14%であること;
(ii)隙間間の距離が経緯ともに3.5〜50mmであること;及び
(iii)隙間部の両際の組織がヒラ組織であること
(2)通気性が2〜40cm/cm・sであり、117N荷重下の滑脱抵抗力が3mm以下であることを特徴とする(1)に記載の織物。
(3)スポーツウェア、アウトドアウェア、カジュアルウェア、または寝袋から選択される繊維製品であって、(1)または(2)に記載の織物を用いたことを特徴とする繊維製品。
隙間が、難溶解性繊維と交織された易溶解性繊維を全面的にまたは部分的に溶解除去して得られることを特徴とする(1)または(2)に記載の織物の製造方法。
This invention is completed based on said knowledge, and has the structure of the following (1)-( 4 ).
(1) A lightweight high density woven fabric having a cover factor of 1550 to 2300 and a basis weight of 15 to 55 g / m 2 , wherein a pattern formed by a gap exists in the woven fabric, and the following (i) to ( iii ) ) Characterized by satisfying the following conditions:
(I) The clearance ratio is 0.5 to 14% in both circumstances ;
(Ii) The distance between the gaps is 3.5 to 50 mm in both circumstances ; and (iii) the structures on both sides of the gap are a flat structure .
(2) The woven fabric according to (1), wherein the air permeability is 2 to 40 cm 3 / cm 2 · s, and the sliding resistance under a load of 117 N is 3 mm or less.
(3) A textile product selected from sportswear, outdoor wear, casual wear, or sleeping bag, wherein the textile according to (1) or (2) is used.
( 4 ) The production of the woven fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the gap is obtained by completely or partially dissolving and removing the easily soluble fibers interwoven with the hardly soluble fibers. Method.

本発明によれば、滑脱抵抗力に優れた隙間を持ち、その隙間が柄としての視覚効果を高めつつ、発汗しても蒸れにくくし、体温が下がった後も冷え過ぎないような適度な通気性と防風性を有する軽量な高密度織物を提供することができる。本発明の織物は、かかる特性を有するため、スポーツウェア、アウトドアウェア、カジュアルウェア、寝袋用側地に使用するのに極めて好適である。   According to the present invention, there is a gap excellent in slip resistance, and the gap enhances the visual effect as a handle, makes it difficult to stuffy even if sweating, and does not overcool after the body temperature falls It is possible to provide a lightweight, high-density woven fabric having wind resistance and wind resistance. Since the fabric of the present invention has such characteristics, it is extremely suitable for use in sportswear, outdoor wear, casual wear, and sleeping bag side land.

図1は、抜食により部分的に隙間を有する箇所と非抜食部が混在する本発明の一例の織物のイメージ写真であり、隙間率の計算方法も併せて示す。図1において、1aは非抜食部(低通気度部)であり、1bは抜食部(高通気度部)であり、1cは隙間間の距離(柄サイズ)Bである。本発明の隙間率、隙間間の距離(柄サイズ)を示す。FIG. 1 is an image photograph of a fabric of an example of the present invention in which a portion partially having a gap due to pitting and a non-pitting portion are mixed, and the calculation method of the gap ratio is also shown. In FIG. 1, 1a is a non-eating portion (low air permeability portion), 1b is a eating portion (high air permeability portion), and 1c is a distance (pattern size) B between the gaps. The gap ratio of the present invention and the distance (pattern size) between the gaps are shown.

図2は、ヒラ組織における隙間部の両際の組織を示す図で、(a)は、溶解後の経緯の組織がヒラ組織となり好ましい組織であることを示し、(b)は、同口の組織となり好ましくない組織であることを示す。FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the structure at both ends of the gap portion in the heel tissue, (a) shows that the tissue after the dissolution becomes a heel structure and is a preferable tissue, and (b) Indicates an unfavorable organization as an organization.

図3は、隙間部の両際の組織によって外力に対して抵抗力の度合が異なることを示す概念図である。(a)は、易溶解性繊維が溶解除去された後の隙間部の両際の経糸がヒラ組織を維持し、外力に対して滑りにくいため、好ましい配し方であることを示し、(b)は、隙間部の両際の経糸が同じ組織となり、いわゆる同口の組織となり、外力に対して滑り易い構造であるため、好ましくない配し方であることを示す。FIG. 3 is a conceptual diagram showing that the degree of resistance to external force differs depending on the structure on both sides of the gap. (A) shows that the warp yarns at both ends of the gap after the easily soluble fiber is dissolved and removed maintain a lamellar structure and is not slippery with respect to external force, and is therefore a preferable way to arrange (b) ) Indicates that the warp yarns at both ends of the gap portion have the same structure, that is, a so-called same-tissue structure, and is slippery with respect to an external force, which is an undesirable arrangement.

図4は、ヒラ組織以外のリップストップ(a)とメッシュ風ドビー織物(b)の組織例を示し、隙間部の両際の組織がヒラ組織であればよいことを示す図である。FIG. 4 is a diagram showing an example of the structure of the ripstop (a) and the mesh-like dobby fabric (b) other than the flattened structure, and shows that the structures on both sides of the gap may be a flattened structure.

図5は、隙間による柄表現を例示し、実線が隙間のある箇所を示す。(a)と(b)は、易溶解性フィラメントを交織した箇所を全面的に溶解除去して得られる隙間柄の例を示すものである。実施例1〜7、比較例1〜8における柄はこのような格子柄を形成するものである。(c)は、抜食加工による柄表現を示す例である。抜食部のみ隙間による格子柄を形成し、非抜食部は隙間のない無地となり、抜食部と非抜食部が混在した織物となる。抜食はプリントによるもので、(a)や(b)のような直線柄となる全面的溶解と異なり曲線的な隙間柄表現が可能となる。FIG. 5 exemplifies pattern expression by a gap, and a solid line indicates a portion having a gap. (A) And (b) shows the example of the crevice pattern obtained by melt | dissolving and removing the part which interwoven the easily soluble filament over the whole surface. The patterns in Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 form such a lattice pattern. (C) is an example which shows the pattern expression by a picking process. A lattice pattern with a gap is formed only in the extracted portion, and the non-extracted portion is plain without a gap, resulting in a woven fabric in which the extracted portion and the non-extracted portion are mixed. Eating is due to printing, and unlike the entire dissolution that becomes a linear pattern as in (a) and (b), a curved gap pattern can be expressed.

本発明の織物は、例えばナイロンまたはポリエステルで主に構成される薄地の軽量高密度織物であり、防風性でありながら、織物に隙間を設けることで適度な通気性を持つものである。また、本発明の織物は、隙間を設けたために、染色加工中に、また着用時や洗濯時にメヨレが生じ易くなる問題を解消するため、隙間率と通気度、及び隙間率とメヨレ(滑脱抵抗力)の関係などを検討し、上記問題を克服するための好適な隙間率、隙間と隙間の間隔(柄サイズ)、及び経緯の隙間部の両際の糸の配置のさせ方(組織)を提案するものであり、従来にない全く新しい発想に基づく織物である。   The woven fabric of the present invention is a thin, lightweight, high-density woven fabric mainly composed of, for example, nylon or polyester, and has appropriate air permeability by providing a gap in the woven fabric while being windproof. In addition, since the fabric of the present invention is provided with a gap, it eliminates the problem that a fray tends to occur during dyeing processing or during wearing or washing. Force)) to determine the suitable gap ratio to overcome the above problems, gap between gaps (pattern size), and how to arrange the yarns at both ends of the gaps in the background (structure) This is a woven fabric based on a completely new idea that we have proposed.

以下、本発明の織物について具体的に説明する。   Hereinafter, the fabric of the present invention will be specifically described.

本発明の織物としては、典型例として、まず第一に、経方向及び/又は緯方向に交織された易溶解性フィラメントが全面的に溶解除去されて得られた格子柄、ストライプ柄、もしくはボーダー柄のような隙間を有する織物がある(例えば図5(a)、(b)参照)。図5(a)は、織物に全面的に隙間柄が存在し、隙間柄が全て格子柄である例を示し、図5(b)は、織物に全面的に隙間柄が存在し、隙間柄が格子柄とストライプ柄を混在した例を示す。また、第二の典型例として、交織された易溶解性フィラメントが溶解除去されて隙間が存在する箇所と溶解されずに残り隙間が存在しない箇所を有する織物である(例えば図5(c)参照)。図5(c)は、織物に隙間柄を有する部分と隙間柄を有しない無地部分が存在し、隙間柄が格子柄である例を示す。   As a typical example of the woven fabric of the present invention, first of all, a lattice pattern, a stripe pattern, or a border obtained by dissolving and removing all the easily soluble filaments woven in the warp direction and / or the weft direction. There is a woven fabric having a gap like a handle (for example, see FIGS. 5A and 5B). FIG. 5A shows an example in which a gap pattern is present on the entire surface of the woven fabric, and the gap patterns are all lattice patterns. FIG. Shows an example in which a lattice pattern and a stripe pattern are mixed. Further, as a second typical example, there is a woven fabric having a portion where a gap is present by dissolving and removing the interwoven easily soluble filament and a portion where no remaining gap is present without being dissolved (see, for example, FIG. 5C). ). FIG. 5C shows an example in which the fabric has a part having a gap pattern and a plain part not having a gap pattern, and the gap pattern is a lattice pattern.

本発明の織物では、前述のように、隙間のある柄のみが連続して存在してもよいし(例えば図5(a)、(b)参照)、あるいは隙間のある柄の部分と隙間のない無地の部分が存在してもよい(例えば図5(c)参照)。)。隙間のある柄の部分の存在のさせ方に特別な制約はない。本発明の製品では、隙間のある柄の部分と隙間のない無地の部分の混在する織物(例えば実施例8の織物)を用い、例えば防風性を得たい腹部には隙間のない無地の部分を、汗や温湿度を逃がしたい肩部や背部には隙間のある柄の部分を用い、これらの部分の境界部が縫い目のないように作成することができる。また、隙間柄が連続する本発明の織物(例えば図5(a)、実施例1等)と隙間柄の全くない低通気度の織物を別々に作成し、これらを同様部位に用い、これらの織物の境界部を縫い合わせた製品とすることもできる。   In the woven fabric of the present invention, as described above, only a pattern with a gap may continuously exist (for example, see FIGS. 5A and 5B), or a portion of a pattern with a gap and a gap between the patterns. There may be no plain portion (see, for example, FIG. 5C). ). There is no special restriction on how to make a pattern with a gap. In the product of the present invention, a woven fabric (for example, a woven fabric of Example 8) in which a pattern portion with a gap and a plain portion without a gap are mixed is used. It is possible to use a pattern portion with a gap on the shoulder portion and back portion where sweat and temperature / humidity are desired to escape, and to create a boundary portion between these portions without a seam. In addition, fabrics of the present invention in which gap patterns are continuous (for example, FIG. 5 (a), Example 1 and the like) and low-breathed fabrics having no gap patterns are prepared separately, and these are used in the same parts. It can also be set as the product which sewn the boundary part of the textile fabric.

本発明の織物は、高密度に織られており、以下の式で示されるカバーファクターが1550〜2300、好ましくは1600〜2200である。カバーファクターは経、緯のカバーファクターの総和である。また、織物のカバーファクターは、易溶解性繊維の溶解後の値である。
カバーファクター(CF)=√総繊度T×密度(本/吋)
カバーファクターが上記範囲未満では、隙間箇所がメヨレし易く、着用、洗濯時のみならず、織物中の易溶解性繊維の溶解除去工程においてもメヨレを生じ易く好ましくない。カバーファクターが上記範囲を超えると、風合の硬い織物となり、また、目付が増え、好ましくない。
The woven fabric of the present invention is woven at a high density, and the cover factor represented by the following formula is 1550 to 2300, preferably 1600 to 2200. The cover factor is the sum of the cover factors of longitude and latitude. Further, the cover factor of the fabric is a value after dissolution of the easily soluble fiber.
Cover factor (CF) = √ total fineness T × density (books / 吋)
If the cover factor is less than the above range, the gaps are likely to be frayed, and not only during wearing and washing, but also in the step of dissolving and removing easily soluble fibers in the fabric, it is not preferable. If the cover factor exceeds the above range, a fabric with a hard texture is formed, and the basis weight increases, which is not preferable.

本発明の織物は、軽量に織られており、目付は15〜55g/m、好ましくは20〜50g/mである。目付が上記範囲未満では、引裂強力が弱くなり、上記範囲を超えると、重くなり、好ましくない。また、本発明の織物は、薄地に作られており、厚さは好ましくは0.04〜0.25mm、より好ましくは0.05mm〜0.20mmである。厚さが上記範囲未満では、引裂強力が弱くなり、上記範囲を超えると、重くなるおそれがある。 The woven fabric of the present invention is woven lightweight and has a basis weight of 15 to 55 g / m 2 , preferably 20 to 50 g / m 2 . If the basis weight is less than the above range, the tearing strength becomes weak, and if it exceeds the above range, it becomes heavy, which is not preferable. The woven fabric of the present invention is made of thin fabric, and the thickness is preferably 0.04 to 0.25 mm, more preferably 0.05 mm to 0.20 mm. If the thickness is less than the above range, the tearing strength becomes weak, and if it exceeds the above range, it may become heavy.

本発明の織物は、以下の(i)〜(iv)の条件を満足することが必要である。
(i)隙間率が0.5〜14%であること;
(ii)隙間間の距離が3.5〜50mmであること;
(iii)隙間部の両際の組織がヒラ組織であること;及び
(iv)隙間が、難溶解性繊維と交織された易溶解性繊維を全面的にまたは部分的に溶解除去して得られたものであること。
The fabric of the present invention needs to satisfy the following conditions (i) to (iv).
(I) The clearance ratio is 0.5 to 14%;
(Ii) The distance between the gaps is 3.5 to 50 mm;
(Iii) The structure at both ends of the gap is a flattened structure; and (iv) The gap is obtained by dissolving or removing the easily soluble fiber woven with the hardly soluble fiber completely or partially. That it is.

上記の(i)で規定する隙間率は、隙間の空いている度合いを表わし、0.5〜14%、好ましくは2〜13%である。
隙間率は、図1に示すように、隙間率(%)=(B−A)/B×100で表される。
A:柄一完全中の隙間を含まない箇所の糸本数
B:柄一完全中の隙間を含む箇所の糸本数
隙間率は経、緯別に算出する。(n=3)
The gap ratio defined in (i) above represents the degree of gap clearance and is 0.5 to 14%, preferably 2 to 13%.
As shown in FIG. 1, the gap ratio is represented by the gap ratio (%) = (B−A) / B × 100.
A: Number of yarns at a portion not including the gap in the complete pattern B: The yarn number gap ratio at the portion including the gap in the complete pattern is calculated according to warp and weft. (N = 3)

隙間率は、経、緯別に算出し、いずれもこの範囲内にあることが必要である。経緯のいずれかの隙間率が上記範囲未満では、通気度が得られにくく、上記範囲超では、通気度が高くなるが隙間部を含む滑脱抵抗力が低下し、着用や洗濯時にメヨレが生じ易く好ましくない。   The clearance ratio is calculated for each longitude and latitude, and both must be within this range. If the gap ratio of any of the backgrounds is less than the above range, the air permeability is difficult to obtain, and if it exceeds the above range, the air permeability increases, but the slip resistance resistance including the gap portion decreases, and it is easy to cause a fray when wearing or washing. It is not preferable.

織物全体としての隙間率は、経緯の繊度、密度、易溶解性フィラメントの本数、柄サイズが同じ場合、経緯の隙間率は同じであるが、これらのいずれかが異なる場合は、隙間率はカバーファクター減少率で表すのが合理的である。カバーファクター減少率は次式で表され、経緯の隙間率と同様に0.5〜14%、好ましくは2〜13%であることが必要である。
カバーファクター減少率(%)=(C−D)/C×100
C:易溶解性繊維の溶解前の織物のカバーファクター
D:易溶解性繊維の溶解後の織物のカバーファクター
The gap ratio of the entire fabric is the same when the fineness, density, number of readily soluble filaments, and pattern size are the same, but the background gap ratio is the same. It is reasonable to express it as a factor reduction rate. The cover factor reduction rate is expressed by the following equation, and is required to be 0.5 to 14%, preferably 2 to 13%, similarly to the gap ratio of the background.
Cover factor reduction rate (%) = (C−D) / C × 100
C: Cover factor of fabric before dissolution of easily soluble fibers D: Cover factor of fabric after dissolution of readily soluble fibers

上記の(ii)で規定する隙間間距離(柄サイズ)は、図1に示すように、経緯の隙間部を含む柄一完全の長さを指す。隙間間距離は、経緯とも3.5〜50mm、好ましくは5〜40mmである。隙間間距離が上記範囲未満では、非溶解部の面積が少ないため外力に抗する力が弱くなりメヨレを生じ易くなる(例えば比較例5参照)。この現象は、カバーファクターを上げても解消しきれない。隙間間距離が広いほどメヨレの少ない織物が得られ易いが、上記範囲超では、高い通気性が得られ難くなり、かつ大味な柄となり好ましくない(例えば比較例6参照)。   The inter-gap distance (pattern size) defined in (ii) above refers to the complete length of the pattern including the background gap as shown in FIG. The distance between the gaps is 3.5 to 50 mm, preferably 5 to 40 mm, with respect to the background. If the distance between the gaps is less than the above range, since the area of the non-dissolved portion is small, the force against the external force is weakened, and may easily occur (see, for example, Comparative Example 5). This phenomenon cannot be solved even by increasing the cover factor. The wider the distance between the gaps, the easier it is to obtain a woven fabric with less mayor. However, if it exceeds the above range, it is difficult to obtain high air permeability and a large pattern is not preferable (see, for example, Comparative Example 6).

ブラウスやスカート生地等に用いられるポリエステルの強撚ジョーゼット織物などでは、撚糸の撚り角、シボのため密度が甘くても糸同士が干渉するためメヨレしにくく、狭い間隔で隙間を設けてもメヨレしにくい特徴がある。しかし、無撚糸を用いた織物の場合、外力に対し糸が動き易く、強撚糸織物に比べて容易にメヨレし易い。本発明の織物では、この隙間間距離に着目し、これをメヨレしにくい範囲に規定したものである。   Polyester strongly twisted georgette fabrics used for blouse and skirt fabrics, etc., are difficult to fray because the yarns interfere with each other even if the density is low due to the twist angle and wrinkle of the twisted yarn. There is a feature that is difficult to do. However, in the case of a woven fabric using a non-twisted yarn, the yarn is easy to move with respect to an external force, and it is easy to fray as compared with a strong twisted yarn fabric. In the fabric of the present invention, attention is paid to the distance between the gaps, and this is defined in a range where it is difficult to fray.

上述のように織物のカバーファクター、隙間率、隙間間距離(柄サイズ)を規定するだけではメヨレを防止するためには不十分で、上記の(iii)で規定したように、隙間部の両際の糸が外力の作用に抗して移動しにくいヒラ組織とすること(例えば図2(a)、図3(a)参照)、即ち、隙間部の両際の糸が経糸同士、緯糸同士で同じ配置にならない(同口で並ばない)ようにすることが必要である。   As described above, it is not sufficient to prevent fraying by simply specifying the cover factor, gap ratio, and gap distance (pattern size) of the fabric, and as defined in (iii) above, The knitted fabric is not easily moved against the action of external force (for example, see FIGS. 2 (a) and 3 (a)), that is, the yarns at both ends of the gap are warp yarns and weft yarns. It is necessary to avoid the same arrangement (not lined up in the same mouth).

図3(a)は、好ましいヒラ組織を示す図で、隙間部の両際の経糸の配置が同じでない組織であり、黒印の経糸を白印の緯糸が拘束し、外力に対し、黒印の経糸が移動しにくく、好ましい組織である。図3(b)は、隙間部の両際の経糸の配置が同じ組織であり、外力に対し、緯糸による拘束力が作用しないため黒印の経糸が矢印のように移動し易く、隙間がぼやけて好ましくない組織である。   FIG. 3 (a) is a diagram showing a preferred flattened structure, in which the arrangement of the warp yarns at both ends of the gap is not the same, and the black warp yarns are constrained by the white weft yarns, and the external force is blackened. This warp is difficult to move and is a preferable structure. FIG. 3B shows a structure in which the warp is arranged at both ends of the gap, and the binding force by the weft does not act on the external force, so that the black warp easily moves as indicated by the arrow, and the gap is blurred. It is an unfavorable organization.

図4は、ヒラ組織以外の組織を使用した好ましい例を示す。図4(a)はリップストップに、図4(b)はメッシュ風ドビーにそれぞれヒラ組織を組み込み、易溶解性フィラメントをヒラ組織部に2本織り込んだ組織例である。いずれも隙間部の両際の糸は経糸同士、緯糸同士が同じ配置にならず、メヨレしにくい組織となる。   FIG. 4 shows a preferred example using a tissue other than the heel tissue. FIG. 4A shows an example of a structure in which a lip stop is incorporated, and FIG. 4B is an example of a structure in which a two-dissolvable filament is woven into a heel tissue part, and a mesh-like dobby is incorporated. In either case, the warp yarns and the weft yarns are not arranged in the same manner on both ends of the gap portion, and the structure is difficult to fray.

図3(b)に示される経糸易溶解性フィラメントの繊度、溶解本数(▲印の22Tが3本=66T)で得られるのとほぼ同等の隙間を有する織物を、メヨレしにくい組織の織物として得る場合は、図3(a)に示されるように易溶解性フィラメントの繊度を●印17Tを4本=68Tとすることで可能となる。   A fabric having a gap almost equivalent to that obtained by the fineness and the number of melted filaments of the warp easily soluble filament shown in FIG. In the case of obtaining, as shown in FIG. 3A, the fineness of the readily soluble filament can be set to 4 marks 17T = 68 = 68T.

本発明の織物の用途は、スポーツウェア、アウトドアウェア、カジュアルウェア、寝袋側地用が好ましく、カジュアルウェアを除くと婦人衣料、裏地、寝装用途とは異なり、より強い滑脱抵抗力が求められる。本発明の織物は、117N荷重下において隙間箇所を含む測定値で滑脱抵抗力が3mm以下であることが好ましい。更に好ましくは2.5mm以下である。滑脱抵抗力が上記範囲超では、着用や洗濯時にメヨレを生じ易く、実用性に欠くものとなりやすい。また、地糸の総繊度が17T未満の織物において試験荷重117Nでは負荷途中で引裂きが生じることがあり、その場合は荷重78Nまたは49Nでの滑脱抵抗力が好ましくは3mm以下、より好ましくは2.5mm以下である。   The use of the fabric of the present invention is preferably for sportswear, outdoor wear, casual wear, and sleeping bag side. Unlike casual wear, women wear, lining, and bedding use are required to have higher slip resistance. The fabric of the present invention preferably has a sliding resistance of 3 mm or less as measured values including a gap portion under a load of 117 N. More preferably, it is 2.5 mm or less. If the slip resistance is more than the above range, it tends to cause fleeting during wearing or washing, which tends to be lacking in practicality. Further, in a woven fabric having a total fineness of the ground yarn of less than 17T, tearing may occur in the middle of the load at a test load of 117N. In that case, the slip resistance at a load of 78N or 49N is preferably 3 mm or less, more preferably 2. 5 mm or less.

本発明の織物では、隙間柄を有しない部分は防風性に寄与するが、隙間柄部は全体として適度な通気性を有するために寄与する。本発明の織物の通気度は、2〜40cm/cm・sが好ましく、より好ましくは2〜30cm/cm・sである。通気度の測定では、織物中に存在する隙間箇所の割合が変動しないように試料を採取する。通気度が上記範囲未満では、発汗時の蒸れ感解消効果が弱く、上記範囲超では発汗後の冷え感が強くなり好ましくない。本発明の織物において抜食加工による隙間のない箇所(非抜食部)はほとんど通気しない低通気度の無地部を構成し、この箇所のカレンダー加工後の通気度は0.5〜10cm/cm・sが好ましく、更に好ましくは1〜6cm/cm・sである。この箇所の通気度が上記範囲を超えると、隙間のある箇所がメヨレし易くなり好ましくない。 In the woven fabric of the present invention, the portion having no gap pattern contributes to wind resistance, but the gap pattern portion contributes to having an appropriate air permeability as a whole. The air permeability of the fabric of the present invention is preferably 2 to 40 cm 3 / cm 2 · s, more preferably 2 to 30 cm 3 / cm 2 · s. In measuring the air permeability, a sample is taken so that the ratio of the gaps existing in the fabric does not fluctuate. If the air permeability is less than the above range, the effect of eliminating the stuffiness during sweating is weak, and if it exceeds the above range, the feeling of cooling after sweating is undesirably strong. In the woven fabric of the present invention, a portion without a gap (non-etched portion) formed by a biting process constitutes a plain portion having a low air permeability that hardly allows ventilation, and the air permeability after calendering of this portion is 0.5 to 10 cm 3 /. cm 2 · s is preferable, and more preferably 1 to 6 cm 3 / cm 2 · s. When the air permeability at this location exceeds the above range, it is not preferable because a location with a gap is likely to fray.

次に、本発明の織物の製法について説明する。
本発明の織物は、製織時には基本的に地糸である難溶解性フィラメントと易溶解性フィラメントで構成され、最終的には易溶解性フィラメントは全面的に又は部分的に溶解され、難溶解性フィラメントは溶解されずにそのまま残る。易溶解性フィラメントとは、熱水中やアルカリ水溶液中で難溶解性フィラメントより溶解速度が早い繊維を指す。易溶解性ポリエステルでは、アルカリ濃度2%、常圧ボイル30分で減量速度が難溶解性ポリエステルより3倍以上早いタイプが好ましい。
Next, the manufacturing method of the textile fabric of the present invention will be described.
The woven fabric of the present invention is basically composed of a hardly soluble filament and a readily soluble filament that are ground yarns at the time of weaving. Finally, the easily soluble filament is completely or partially dissolved, and hardly soluble. The filament remains undissolved. The easily soluble filament refers to a fiber having a faster dissolution rate than a hardly soluble filament in hot water or an alkaline aqueous solution. The easily soluble polyester is preferably a type in which the weight loss rate is 3 times or more faster than the hardly soluble polyester in an alkali concentration of 2% and normal pressure boiling for 30 minutes.

難溶解性フィラメントは、軽量性から総繊度が11〜56Tであることが好ましい。更には17〜50Tが好ましく、より好ましくは17〜44Tである。総繊度が上記範囲未満では、太い糸に比し、隙間率が本発明の範囲であっても実際の隙間が小さく、視覚効果が弱くなる傾向がある。視覚的な隙間を得るため隙間率を多くすると組織拘束力が弱いためカバーファクターを増す必要があり、その結果、経糸数が増えることで糸切れ頻度が増え、製織性を悪化させる可能性がある。また、上記範囲超では、目付が重くなる。   The hardly soluble filament preferably has a total fineness of 11 to 56 T because of its light weight. Furthermore, 17-50T is preferable, More preferably, it is 17-44T. When the total fineness is less than the above range, even when the gap ratio is within the range of the present invention, the actual gap is small and the visual effect tends to be weaker than that of a thick thread. If the gap ratio is increased to obtain a visual gap, the tissue binding force is weak and the cover factor needs to be increased. As a result, the number of warps increases, so that the frequency of yarn breakage increases and the weaving property may deteriorate. . Further, if the range is exceeded, the basis weight becomes heavy.

難溶解性フィラメントの単糸繊度は、0.2〜4.0Tが好ましい。隙間により通気性を得る織物構造であるため隙間のない箇所は防風性に寄与するために低通気度とすることが好ましく、この場合には0.2〜1.1Tを使用した高密度織物とすることが可能である。また、隙間のない箇所の通気度を比較的高いものとする場合には1.8〜4.0Tを使用した織物とすることが可能である。単糸繊度が上記範囲未満では、隙間箇所付近がメヨレしやすく、上記範囲超では硬風合となりやすい。   The single yarn fineness of the hardly soluble filament is preferably 0.2 to 4.0 T. Since it is a woven fabric structure that obtains air permeability through the gap, it is preferable that the portion without the gap has a low air permeability in order to contribute to windproof properties. In this case, a high-density fabric using 0.2 to 1.1 T Is possible. Moreover, when making the air permeability of a location without a clearance comparatively high, it is possible to use a woven fabric using 1.8 to 4.0 T. If the single yarn fineness is less than the above range, the vicinity of the gap is likely to be frayed, and if it exceeds the above range, it tends to be hard.

難溶解性フィラメントの糸の断面は、一般的な丸断面のほか、△、□、菱型、Y、W、十字、中空、五角形以上の多角形、扁平、複数の凸部を有する扁平や丸断面等が使用され、特に制約はない。添加物は酸化チタンのほか、顔料、カーボン等を含んでもよい。素材は、ポリエステル、ナイロン(6、66)が好適に用いられるが、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、これらのコンジュゲート繊維等であってもよい。また、素材は、フィラメント(ナマ糸)のほか、仮撚捲縮糸(DTY、ピン仮撚加工糸)であってもよい。   The cross section of the yarn of the hardly soluble filament is not only a general round cross section, but also a triangle, a square, a Y, a W, a cross, a hollow, a pentagon or more polygon, a flat, a flat or a round having a plurality of convex portions A cross section or the like is used and there is no particular limitation. In addition to titanium oxide, the additive may contain a pigment, carbon, and the like. Polyester and nylon (6, 66) are preferably used as the material, but may be polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, conjugate fibers thereof, or the like. Moreover, the raw material may be a false twisted crimped yarn (DTY, pin false twisted yarn) in addition to a filament (raw yarn).

難溶解性フィラメントの糸の強度は、織物の引裂き強力確保の観点からナマ糸では3.5cN/dtex以上、仮撚捲縮糸では3.0cN/dtex以上であることが好ましい。仮撚捲縮糸がポリエステルの場合はアルカリ水溶液、第4級アンモニウム塩等で加水分解しにくいホモポリマータイプが好ましく、ナイロンの場合、これら薬剤、温度等で捲縮が失われにくい66ナイロンタイプがより好ましい。易溶解性フィラメントが水溶性ビニロンの場合、難溶解性フィラメントはこの限りではなく、共重合ポリエステルや6ナイロンも好適に用いることができる。   The strength of the hardly soluble filament is preferably 3.5 cN / dtex or more for the raw yarn and 3.0 cN / dtex or more for the false twisted crimped yarn from the viewpoint of securing the tear strength of the fabric. When the false twisted crimped yarn is polyester, a homopolymer type that is difficult to hydrolyze with an alkaline aqueous solution, a quaternary ammonium salt or the like is preferable. In the case of nylon, 66 nylon type that is not easily lost by crimping with these agents, temperature, etc. More preferred. When the easily soluble filament is water-soluble vinylon, the hardly soluble filament is not limited to this, and copolyester or 6 nylon can also be suitably used.

易溶解性フィラメントは、織物に隙間を設けるために使用され、例えば熱水で可溶性の水溶性ビニロンのほか、アルカリ水溶液や第4級アンモニウム塩で容易に加水分解し易い共重合ポリエステルやポリ乳酸繊維が用いられる。共重合ポリエステルとしては、イソフタル酸、セバシン酸、5−カリウムスルホイソフタル酸、5−メチルスルホイソフタル酸等の共重合によるポリエステルがあり、本発明においては5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を2〜8モル%を含む共重合ポリエステルが好適に用いられる。   Easily soluble filaments are used to create gaps in fabrics, such as water-soluble vinylon that is soluble in hot water, copolymerized polyesters and polylactic acid fibers that are easily hydrolyzed with aqueous alkaline solutions and quaternary ammonium salts. Is used. Examples of the copolyester include polyesters obtained by copolymerization of isophthalic acid, sebacic acid, 5-potassium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-methylsulfoisophthalic acid and the like. In the present invention, 2-8 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is used. A copolymerized polyester containing is preferably used.

水溶性ビニロンは、(株)ニチビ製、(株)クラレ製のものが好適に用いられる。常圧の精練温度で容易に溶解除去されるタイプの使用が好ましい。   As the water-soluble vinylon, those manufactured by Nichibi Co., Ltd. and Kuraray Co., Ltd. are preferably used. It is preferable to use a type that can be easily dissolved and removed at a normal scouring temperature.

共重合ポリエステルは、フィラメント又は仮撚捲縮糸として用いることができ、難溶解性フィラメントの特性と織物の製織性や外観、加水分解のし易さ等を考慮して採用すればよい。例えば、一重ビームで織る場合は、難溶解性フィラメント、易溶解性フィラメントとも仮撚捲縮糸が経糸張力を同一に調整し易く、製織し易い。また、いずれかがフィラメント糸(ナマ糸)の場合、経糸張力を別々に調整する必要があるため、二重ビームが必要になり、高コストになる。易溶解性フィラメントと難溶解性フィラメントの沸水収縮率が異なる場合、易溶解性フィラメントを全面溶解する織物ではフラットな織物外観が得られ易い。   The copolyester can be used as a filament or false twisted crimped yarn, and may be employed in consideration of the characteristics of the hardly soluble filament, the woven property and appearance of the fabric, the ease of hydrolysis, and the like. For example, when weaving with a single beam, both the hardly soluble filament and the easily soluble filament are easy to adjust the warp tension with the false twisted crimped yarn and to easily weave. Further, when either one is a filament yarn (raw yarn), it is necessary to separately adjust the warp tension, which requires a double beam, resulting in high cost. When the boiling water shrinkage ratios of the easily soluble filament and the hardly soluble filament are different, a flat woven fabric appearance can be easily obtained in the woven fabric in which the easily soluble filament is completely dissolved.

一方、抜食によって部分溶解する織物の非抜食箇所は、残存する糸の持つ収縮差から凹凸になり易く、フラットな織物が得られにくい。抜食の場合、いずれも仮撚捲縮糸を用い、巾出しセット温度条件を調整することで非抜食箇所がフラットな織物が得られ易い。加水分解のし易さは繊度が同一な場合、フィラメント糸より低強度になる仮撚捲縮糸が優れ、フィラメント糸より弱い加水分解条件でよく、地糸の強度低下や染色性変化を抑制することができる。   On the other hand, the non-eating portion of the fabric that partially dissolves by ebbing tends to be uneven due to the difference in shrinkage of the remaining yarn, making it difficult to obtain a flat fabric. In the case of biting, it is easy to obtain a woven fabric where the non-plucked portion is flat by using false twisted crimped yarn and adjusting the draw-out set temperature condition. For ease of hydrolysis, when the fineness is the same, false twisted crimped yarn that is lower in strength than filament yarn is superior, and weaker hydrolysis conditions than filament yarn are sufficient, and it suppresses the decrease in strength and dyeability change of ground yarn be able to.

隙間柄を得る際の難溶解性フィラメントと易溶解性フィラメントの好ましい組合せは、交織した箇所を全面溶解して隙間を得る場合は、(a)ナイロンと共重合ポリエステルや水溶性ビニロン、(b)ホモポリエステルと共重合ポリエステルや水溶性ビニロンの組合せが好ましい。また、抜食により部分的な隙間を得る場合は、(c)ナイロンと共重合ポリエステル、(d)ホモポリエステルと共重合ポリエステルの組合せが好ましい。シボ外観の隙間柄を有する織物を得る場合には、沸水収縮率や捲縮特性の異なるこれらの糸を交織し、抜食により両者を織物中に残存させる方法の採用が好ましい。本発明の織物の設計は、以上のような特性を活かして行うことができる。   A preferable combination of a hardly soluble filament and an easily soluble filament when obtaining a gap pattern is (a) nylon and copolymer polyester or water-soluble vinylon, and (b) A combination of homopolyester and copolymerized polyester or water-soluble vinylon is preferred. Moreover, when obtaining a partial clearance by biting, a combination of (c) nylon and copolymer polyester and (d) homopolyester and copolymer polyester is preferable. In order to obtain a woven fabric having a crevice-like gap pattern, it is preferable to employ a method in which these yarns having different boiling water shrinkage ratios and crimp characteristics are interwoven and both are left in the woven fabric by biting. The design of the fabric of the present invention can be performed by taking advantage of the above characteristics.

織物の隙間は、織物のカバーファクターが決定されると易溶解性フィラメントの繊度、用いる本数で決定される。易溶解性フィラメントの繊度は、地糸である難溶解性フィラメントに対して0.5〜4.0倍であることが好ましい。例えば難溶解性フィラメントが22Tの場合、易溶解性フィラメントは11〜88Tが好ましい。隙間を小さくしたい場合には、例えば易溶解性フィラメントの本数を少なくするか、または易溶解性フィラメントとして難溶解性フィラメントより細い糸を使用することができる。細い糸を使用する場合でも難溶解性フィラメントの繊度の0.5倍以上であることが好ましく、それ未満では隙間率が小さくなり、適度な通気性が得られにくくなりやすい。   The gap of the woven fabric is determined by the fineness of the readily soluble filament and the number of fibers used when the cover factor of the woven fabric is determined. The fineness of the easily soluble filament is preferably 0.5 to 4.0 times that of the hardly soluble filament that is the ground yarn. For example, when the hardly soluble filament is 22T, the easily soluble filament is preferably 11 to 88T. When it is desired to reduce the gap, for example, the number of easily soluble filaments can be reduced, or a thread thinner than the hardly soluble filament can be used as the easily soluble filament. Even when a thin thread is used, it is preferably 0.5 times or more the fineness of the hardly soluble filament, and if it is less than that, the clearance ratio becomes small, and it is difficult to obtain appropriate air permeability.

本発明は、高密度織物であり、経糸本数が多い。ヒラ組織の場合、緯糸が1本打ち込まれる度に経糸が上下運動を繰り返すため、筬羽内で筬羽や経糸同士の擦過で毛羽立ちや糸切れを生じ易い。この場合、擦過による経糸の損傷(毛羽立ち、糸切れ)度合は経糸同士より金属(筬羽)との擦過のほうが強い。筬羽との擦過による糸の損傷を防ぐには、筬番手を下げ(筬羽間隙間を広くし)、筬1羽に引き込む経糸本数を多くするのが好ましい。即ち、筬番手を増し(筬羽間を狭くし)、引き込み本数を2本にすることにより、筬番手を下げ(筬羽間隙間を広くし)、引き込み本数を3本にすることで筬羽内の両側の2本は筬羽に接するが真ん中の1本は筬羽に擦過されにくい状態になり、製織性が良くなる。   The present invention is a high-density fabric and has a large number of warps. In the case of a labyrinth structure, warp repeats up and down every time one weft is driven, and thus fuzzing or thread breakage is likely to occur due to rubbing between the wings and warps in the wings. In this case, the degree of damage (fluffing, breakage) of warp due to rubbing is stronger with rubbing with metal (rib) than warps. In order to prevent the yarn from being damaged by rubbing with the cocoon wings, it is preferable to lower the cocoon count (widen the gap between the cocoon wings) and increase the number of warp yarns drawn into one cocoon. In other words, by increasing the number of hooks (narrowing the gap between the wings) and reducing the number of pulls to two, lowering the number of hooks (widening the gap between the wings) and reducing the number of pulls to three Two on both sides touch the wings, but one in the middle is not easily scratched by the wings, and the weaving is improved.

このような製織方法に対処するための工夫として、特にヒラ組織の場合、易溶解性フィラメントを難溶解性フィラメントより細い糸とし、4本、6本というように偶数本の組織とすることが好ましい。例えば、図3(b)に示すように難溶解性フィラメント22Tを3本引き込み(筬羽1羽内66T)とするヒラ織物を得る場合、易溶解性フィラメントを図3(b)のように22Tで3本引き込み(筬羽1羽内66T)とせずに、図2(a)のように17Tを4本引き込み(筬羽1羽内68T)のヒラ組織とすることで目標とするすっきりした隙間外観とメヨレの少ない織物が得られる。   As a device for dealing with such a weaving method, particularly in the case of a labyrinth structure, it is preferable to make the easily soluble filament thinner than the hardly soluble filament and to have an even number of structures such as four or six. . For example, as shown in FIG. 3 (b), in order to obtain a woven fabric with three hardly soluble filaments 22T drawn (66T in one wing), the easily soluble filaments are shown in FIG. 3 (b). Instead of using 3 pulls (66T in each wing), the target is a clear gap by making 4T 17T (68T in 1 wing) as shown in FIG. 2 (a). A woven fabric with less appearance and mayre is obtained.

逆に隙間を大きくしたい場合は、例えば易溶解性フィラメントの本数を多くするか、または易溶解性フィラメントとして難溶解性フィラメントより太い糸を使用することができる。太い糸を使用する場合でも難溶解性フィラメントの繊度の4.0倍以下であることが好ましく、それを超えると繊度差が多くなり、生機にシワが入りやすくなり、また溶解しにくくなりやすい。   Conversely, when it is desired to increase the gap, for example, the number of easily soluble filaments can be increased, or a thread that is thicker than the hardly soluble filament can be used as the easily soluble filament. Even when a thick thread is used, the fineness is preferably 4.0 times or less than the fineness of the hardly soluble filament, and if the fineness is exceeded, the fineness difference increases, the raw machine is likely to be wrinkled, and it is difficult to dissolve.

易溶解性フィラメントの使用本数は、本発明のカバーファクター範囲では1〜6本が好ましい。但し、この本数は地糸の難溶解性フィラメントの繊度に換算した本数で、例えば難溶解性フィラメントの繊度が22Tで、44Tの易溶解性フィラメントを2本撚り合せて、または混繊糸にし、88Tとして1本使用した場合、22Tを4本と換算する。易溶解性フィラメントが7本以上では隙間が多くなり、メヨレし易くなる。より好ましくは2〜4本である。この本数内で隙間を大きくしたい場合は、繊度を増し、隙間を小さくしたい場合は繊度を下げるのが好ましい。   The number of easily soluble filaments used is preferably 1 to 6 in the cover factor range of the present invention. However, this number is the number converted to the fineness of the hardly soluble filament of the ground yarn. For example, the fineness of the hardly soluble filament is 22T, and two 44T easily soluble filaments are twisted or mixed to obtain a mixed yarn. When one is used as 88T, 22T is converted to four. When the number of the easily soluble filaments is 7 or more, there are many gaps, and it becomes easy to fray. More preferably, it is 2-4. If it is desired to increase the gap within this number, it is preferable to increase the fineness, and if it is desired to reduce the clearance, it is preferable to decrease the fineness.

本発明の織物は、易溶解性繊維の溶解後に形成された隙間部を含む全体としてのカバーファクターが1550〜2300であり、好ましくは1600〜2200である。易溶解性繊維の溶解処理前後の織物のカバーファクター減少率は2〜14%であることが好ましい。また、溶解処理前の織物のカバーファクターは、溶解後のそれより2〜14%多くすることが好ましく、従って1600〜2700であることが好ましい。   The woven fabric of the present invention has a cover factor of 1550 to 2300, preferably 1600 to 2200 as a whole including a gap formed after dissolution of easily soluble fibers. The cover factor reduction rate of the fabric before and after the dissolution treatment of the easily soluble fiber is preferably 2 to 14%. Further, the cover factor of the fabric before the dissolution treatment is preferably 2 to 14% higher than that after the dissolution, and is preferably 1600 to 2700.

本発明の織物は、隙間柄で視覚効果が得られるため、緻密で組織拘束力が得られ易いヒラ組織が好適に用いられる。隙間箇所がメヨレしにくいヒラ組織で構成されたリップストップやメッシュ風のドビー組織も好適に採用される(例えば図4(a)、(b)参照)。   In the woven fabric of the present invention, since a visual effect is obtained with a gap pattern, a fine and easy-to-obtain tissue structure is easily used. A lip stop or mesh-like dobby structure composed of a flared structure in which the gap portion is difficult to be easily used is also preferably used (see, for example, FIGS. 4A and 4B).

経糸に2種以上の糸、例えばフィラメント糸と仮撚捲縮糸を使用する織物の場合、製織時の経糸への張力の掛かり方が異なるため一重ビームでは製織性が芳しくない。このため各々の経糸張力を管理しやすい多重ビームを使用することが望ましい。経糸に同種の糸、例えば地糸、易溶解性繊維とも仮撚捲縮糸を使用する場合は一重ビームでの製織が可能である。織機種は、特に制約はなく、ウォータージェットルーム、エアジェットルーム、レピア織機等が好適に用いられる。   In the case of a woven fabric using two or more kinds of warp yarns, for example, a filament yarn and a false twisted crimped yarn, the method of applying tension to the warp yarn during weaving is different, so that the weaving property is not good with a single beam. For this reason, it is desirable to use a multiple beam that can easily manage the warp tensions. When using the same type of warp yarn, such as ground yarn and easily soluble fiber, false twisted crimped yarn can be woven with a single beam. The weaving model is not particularly limited, and a water jet loom, an air jet loom, a rapier loom or the like is preferably used.

交織した易溶解性フィラメントを浴中で全面溶解して格子柄などの隙間を有する織物を得る場合、糊付された織物の精練(常圧拡布状連続精練、ジッガー精練、液流精練)、乾燥セット、染色(液流染色、ジッガー染色、ビーム染色)、仕上げ加工(撥水、カレンダー、膜加工)の一般的な工程に、易溶解性フィラメントに応じた溶解除去工程を染色前に施す工程を加えることが好ましい。   When weaving all the easily soluble filaments weaved in a bath to obtain a woven fabric with gaps such as a lattice pattern, scouring the glued fabric (continuous scouring at normal pressure, jigger scouring, liquid scouring), drying A general process of set, dyeing (liquid dyeing, jigger dyeing, beam dyeing) and finishing (water repellency, calendering, film processing) is a process of applying a dissolution removal process according to easily soluble filaments before dyeing. It is preferable to add.

易溶解性フィラメントが水溶性ビニロンである場合は、そのタイプに見合う溶解温度以上の連続精練、または液流染色機中で揉布しながら水溶性ビニロンを溶解除去する。   When the easily soluble filament is a water-soluble vinylon, the water-soluble vinylon is dissolved and removed while continuously scouring at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting temperature corresponding to the type or distributed in a liquid dyeing machine.

易溶解性フィラメントが5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を2〜10モル%を含む共重合ポリエステルである場合、地糸がナイロン6糸であればアルカリ濃度1〜6%、92〜105℃、20〜60分間液流染色機中で揉みながら溶解除去するのが好ましい。地糸がナイロン66又はホモポリエステルである場合は、それより高圧、高アルカリ濃度条件での溶解処理が可能である。染色条件は素材に応じた一般的な条件でよく、またプリントが施されていてもよい。   When the easily soluble filament is a copolymerized polyester containing 2 to 10 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, if the ground yarn is nylon 6 yarn, the alkali concentration is 1 to 6%, 92 to 105 ° C, 20 to 60 It is preferable to dissolve and remove while stirring in a liquid dyeing machine for 1 minute. When the ground yarn is nylon 66 or homopolyester, it can be dissolved under higher pressure and higher alkali concentration conditions. The dyeing conditions may be general conditions according to the material, and may be printed.

抜食により抜食部のみに隙間を有する織物は、易溶解性フィラメントとしてアルカリ液溶解性に優れる5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を2〜10モル%含む共重合ポリエステルが好適に用いられ、難溶解性フィラメントとしてナイロンまたはホモポリエステルが好適に用いられる。このような織物は、糊抜き精練、乾燥セット後、抜食プリントを施し、高圧蒸熱処理後、低アルカリ濃度水溶液中で揉布処理し、抜食部の易溶解性フィラメント(共重合ポリエステル)のみを溶解除去し、その後、染色またはプリントを施すことで得られる。染色時に非抜食部は地糸と異色に染色することもでき、意匠性を高めることができる。次いで前述の撥水、カレンダー加工のほか、樹脂加工等の仕上げ加工を施すことができる。   For the woven fabric having a gap only in the portion to be removed by the biting, a copolyester containing 2 to 10 mol% of 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid having excellent alkali solution solubility as an easily soluble filament is preferably used, and hardly soluble. Nylon or homopolyester is preferably used as the filament. Such fabrics are scoured and desiccated, dried and set, followed by high-pressure steam heat treatment, then sprayed in a low-alkali aqueous solution, and only easy-dissolvable filaments (copolymerized polyester) in the high-pitch area. Is dissolved and removed, and then dyed or printed. At the time of dyeing, the non-etched portion can be dyed differently from the ground yarn, and the design can be improved. Next, in addition to the above-described water repellency and calendar processing, finishing processing such as resin processing can be performed.

抜食剤は、第4級アンモニウム塩を15〜40部含む印捺糊が好適に用いられ、高圧蒸気処理は、6ナイロン織物では110℃以下、66ナイロンやポリエステル織物では135℃以下で行うのが好ましい。印捺糊には尿素、苛性ソーダが含まれていてもよい。その後、抜食処理された共重合ポリエステルを脱落除去させる目的で液流染色機を用い、アルカリ濃度0.5〜2%、温度80〜98℃、時間15〜40分の処理を行うのが好ましい。この条件が強過ぎると非抜食部の共重合ポリエステルも溶解され、意匠性を損ね、強度低下を起こし易くなるため、この範囲で加工することが好ましい。   The paste is preferably used as a printing paste containing 15 to 40 parts of a quaternary ammonium salt, and the high pressure steam treatment is performed at 110 ° C. or less for 6 nylon fabrics and 135 ° C. or less for 66 nylon or polyester fabrics. Is preferred. Urea and caustic soda may be contained in the printing paste. Thereafter, for the purpose of removing and removing the copolyester that has been subjected to the stripping treatment, it is preferable to carry out the treatment with an alkali concentration of 0.5 to 2%, a temperature of 80 to 98 ° C., and a time of 15 to 40 minutes. . If this condition is too strong, the copolymerized polyester in the non-etched portion is also dissolved, and the design properties are impaired and the strength is liable to decrease. Therefore, it is preferable to process within this range.

本発明の織物において、易溶解性フィラメント交織部を全面溶解して隙間を得る場合には、(1)易溶解性フィラメントを経緯に交織し、溶解後に全面を格子柄とした織物(図5a)、(2)易溶解性フィラメントを経には一定間隔で配し、緯には長さ方向に一定間隔で配した箇所を50cmの長さで織り、次いで配さない箇所を50cmの長さで織り、柄の一完全を100cmとした織物にし、溶解後にストライプ部のみが50cm、格子柄部のみが50cmという織物(図5(b))を例示することができる。図5(a)の織物では、通気度は均一、図5(b)の織物では、格子柄部が高通気度、ストライプ部が低通気度となる。   In the woven fabric of the present invention, when a gap is obtained by completely dissolving the easily soluble filament interwoven portion, (1) a woven fabric in which the easily soluble filament is interwoven and the entire surface is made into a lattice pattern after dissolution (FIG. 5a). (2) The easily dissolvable filaments are arranged at regular intervals, the wefts are weaved at regular intervals in the longitudinal direction, and the non-allocated locations are 50 cm long. An example is a woven fabric (FIG. 5 (b)) in which weaving and weaving are 100cm in length, and after dissolution, only the stripe portion is 50cm and only the lattice portion is 50cm. In the woven fabric of FIG. 5A, the air permeability is uniform, and in the woven fabric of FIG. 5B, the lattice pattern portion has high air permeability and the stripe portion has low air permeability.

抜食によって隙間柄を得る方法においては、前記の交織部を全面溶解し、直線的な隙間柄を得る方法とは異なり、プリント手法で任意の曲線的な隙間柄を得ることができる。また、図5(c)のように特定箇所のみに直線的な格子柄を設けることも可能である。抜食法では、低通気度となる非抜食部が混在した織物を得ることができる。   In the method of obtaining a gap pattern by punching, an arbitrary curved gap pattern can be obtained by a printing method, unlike the method of obtaining a linear gap pattern by dissolving the entire interwoven portion. Moreover, it is also possible to provide a linear lattice pattern only at a specific location as shown in FIG. In the biting method, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric in which non-cutting portions having low air permeability are mixed.

本発明の織物では、例えば、脇の下、背、肩などの発汗部に当る箇所には高通気性である隙間柄箇所を、腹部等には低通気性の箇所を用いた製品とすることが可能である。この場合、例えば図5(a)の隙間柄織物とダウンプルーフ用の低通気度織物を縫製で縫い合わせることも、図5(c)のような織物を肩部と腹部のつなぎ目のみ縫製なしで製品とすることも可能である。縫い目がないことで、肌や、衣服、リュック等との滑りの良い製品とすることができる。   In the woven fabric of the present invention, for example, it is possible to make a product using a gap pattern portion having a high air permeability in a portion that hits a sweat portion such as an armpit, a back, a shoulder, and a portion having a low air permeability in an abdomen or the like It is. In this case, for example, the gap pattern woven fabric of FIG. 5A and the low-permeability woven fabric for down proofing are sewn together, or the woven fabric as shown in FIG. 5C can be manufactured without sewing only the joint between the shoulder and the abdomen. It is also possible. Since there is no seam, it can be made into a product with good slippage with the skin, clothes, backpack and the like.

本発明の織物では、染色後に撥水加工を行うことが好ましい。撥水仕上げ剤は、製品の着用や洗濯による滑脱防止のため、洗濯耐久性のあるものが好ましく、これに併用する硬め仕上げ剤としてコロイダルシリカ(日華化学製)、ポリエステル系高分子樹脂(高松油脂製)、変性シリコーンエマルジョン(吉村油化学製)などの市販品が好適に用いられる。撥水剤としては、例えばフッ素系撥水剤、シリコーン系撥水剤、パラフィン系撥水剤、ステアリン系撥水剤などの非フッ素系撥水剤などが用いられる。環境配慮の点からは、フッ素系撥水剤はC6タイプのものが望ましい。また、洗濯耐久性等を目的に、撥水仕上げ剤に、メラミン系樹脂、イソシアネート系架橋剤、カルボジイミド系架橋剤等を加えてもかまわない。加工手段としては、パディング法、コーティング法、グラビア法、スプレー法などが適用できる。本発明においては、撥水仕上げした織物をスポーツウェア(アウトドアウェアを含む)用、特にストレッチ性を要求される用途に好適に用いられる。   In the woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to perform water-repellent finishing after dyeing. The water-repellent finish is preferably one that is durable against washing to prevent slipping off during product wear or washing. Colloidal silica (manufactured by Nikka Chemical), polyester polymer resin (Takamatsu) is used as a hard finish. Commercial products such as oils and fats, modified silicone emulsions (manufactured by Yoshimura Yuka Chemical) and the like are preferably used. As the water repellent, for example, a fluorine-based water repellent, a silicone water repellent, a paraffin water repellent, a non-fluorine water repellent such as a stearin water repellent, or the like is used. From the viewpoint of environmental consideration, the fluorine-based water repellent is preferably a C6 type. Further, for the purpose of washing durability and the like, a melamine-based resin, an isocyanate-based crosslinking agent, a carbodiimide-based crosslinking agent, or the like may be added to the water-repellent finish. As a processing means, a padding method, a coating method, a gravure method, a spray method or the like can be applied. In the present invention, a water-repellent finished fabric is suitably used for sportswear (including outdoor wear), particularly for applications that require stretchability.

撥水加工の後、カレンダー加工を施すことが好ましく、これにより織物の通気度が下がるが、薄地化、光沢の強調、通気度のバラツキを軽減、滑脱抵抗力を増すことが可能である。カレンダー加工条件は、加熱しない加圧ロールでの圧縮や、ナイロン6織物の場合、ロール温度100℃の低温、低圧力の弱い条件から100〜190℃、加圧10〜25kg/cm、加工速度10〜30m/分の条件等で行うことができる。ポリエステルや66ナイロンでは、200〜220℃のより高温条件での加工が可能である。カレンダー前の通気度が20cm/cm・sと比較的低い織物の場合はこれらカレンダー条件を弱くして所定の通気度を得ることが好ましい。 It is preferable to perform calendering after the water repellent treatment, and this reduces the air permeability of the fabric, but it is possible to reduce the thickness of the fabric, emphasize the gloss, reduce the variation in the air permeability, and increase the slip resistance. The calendering conditions are compression with a non-heated pressure roll, and in the case of nylon 6 fabric, the roll temperature is 100 ° C., low pressure is weak and the pressure is 100 to 190 ° C., the pressure is 10 to 25 kg / cm 2 , the processing speed It can be performed under conditions of 10 to 30 m / min. Polyester and 66 nylon can be processed under higher temperature conditions of 200 to 220 ° C. In the case of a woven fabric having a relatively low air permeability before 20 cm 3 / cm 2 · s, it is preferable to weaken these calendar conditions to obtain a predetermined air permeability.

また、滑脱抵抗力を高める目的で通気度が著しく阻害されない程度にスプレーやコーティングにより織物片面に、アクリル系やポリウレタン系樹脂を0.1〜5g/mの範囲で固着させることもできる。ウレタン系樹脂は、低塗布量を得るために合成繊維と相溶性の低い非溶剤系樹脂の採用が好ましい。片面に合成樹脂をコーティングする方法としては、フローティングナイフコータ、ナイフロールコータ、ナイフベルトコータ等のナイフコーティングが好ましく採用される。また、湿式によりウレタン樹脂を含浸させ、繊維全体に樹脂を含ませる方法の採用も好ましい。本発明では塗布量が少ないため、樹脂漏れ防止のためのカレンダーは不要であるが、織物表面をフラットにし、樹脂を均一に塗布する目的で施してもよい。 Further, for the purpose of increasing the slip resistance, an acrylic or polyurethane resin can be fixed on the one side of the fabric by spraying or coating to the extent that the air permeability is not significantly inhibited in the range of 0.1 to 5 g / m 2 . The urethane resin is preferably a non-solvent resin having a low compatibility with synthetic fibers in order to obtain a low coating amount. As a method of coating the synthetic resin on one side, knife coating such as a floating knife coater, knife roll coater, knife belt coater, etc. is preferably employed. Further, it is also preferable to employ a method in which a urethane resin is impregnated by a wet method and the resin is contained in the entire fiber. In the present invention, since the coating amount is small, a calendar for preventing resin leakage is unnecessary, but it may be applied for the purpose of flattening the surface of the fabric and uniformly applying the resin.

本発明の織物の効果を以下に示すが、本発明はこれらに限定されるものではない。なお、実施例中の特性値の評価は、以下の方法に依った。   The effects of the fabric of the present invention are shown below, but the present invention is not limited to these. In addition, evaluation of the characteristic value in an Example depended on the following method.

隙間率:隙間率(%)=(B−A)/B×100
A:柄一完全中の隙間を含まない箇所の糸本数
B:柄一完全中の隙間を含む箇所の糸本数
隙間率は経、緯別に算出する。(n=3)
Crevice ratio: Crevice ratio (%) = (B−A) / B × 100
A: Number of yarns not including the gap in the pattern
B: Number of yarns including the gaps in the complete pattern
The gap ratio is calculated according to longitude and latitude. (N = 3)

カバーファクター(CF)経:√Dtex×密度(本/吋)+緯:√Dtex×密度(本/吋)   Cover factor (CF) longitude: √Dtex × density (book / 吋) + latitude: √Dtex × density (book / 吋)

カバーファクター減少率(%)=(C−D)/C×100
C:易溶解性繊維の溶解前の織物のカバーファクター
D:易溶解性繊維の溶解後の織物のカバーファクター
Cover factor reduction rate (%) = (C−D) / C × 100
C: Cover factor of fabric before dissolution of easily soluble fiber
D: Cover factor of fabric after dissolution of readily soluble fiber

通気度:JIS L1096 8.26.1A法(フラジール形法)   Air permeability: JIS L1096 8.26.1A method (Fragile type method)

引裂き強力:JIS L1096 D法(ペンジュラム法)   Tearing strength: JIS L1096 D method (Pendulum method)

滑脱抵抗力:JIS L1096 8.23 B法(117N荷重下)   Sliding resistance: JIS L1096 8.23 B method (under 117N load)

目付:JIS L1096 8.3.2   Weight: JIS L1096 8.3.2

隙間部の品位:○良、×不良(メヨレあり)   The quality of the gap: ○ Good, × Poor (may have)

総合評価:○良、×不良(評価項目に問題あり)   Overall evaluation: ○ Good, × Failure (There are problems with the evaluation items)

難溶解性フィラメントとして以下の2種のナイロン66仮撚捲縮糸(1)、(2)を用意し、易溶解性フィラメントとして以下の2種の5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を6モル%含む共重合ポリエステルの仮撚捲縮糸(3)、(4)を用意し、難溶解性ポリエステルマルチフィラメントとして以下のコポリマーポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸(5)を用意した。
<難溶解性フィラメント>
(1)ナイロン66仮撚捲縮糸 22T20f(ブライト)
(2)ナイロン66仮撚捲縮糸 44T24f(ブライト)
<易溶解性フィラメント>
(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸 22t12f(ブライト)
(4)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸 44T24f(ブライト)
<難溶解性ポリエステルフィラメント>
(5)ホモポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸 22T24f(セミダル)
The following two types of nylon 66 false-twisted crimped yarns (1) and (2) are prepared as the hardly soluble filaments, and the following two types of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid are included as 6 mol% as the easily soluble filaments. Polymerized polyester false twisted crimped yarns (3) and (4) were prepared, and the following copolymer polyester false twisted crimped yarn (5) was prepared as a hardly soluble polyester multifilament.
<Slightly soluble filament>
(1) Nylon 66 false twisted crimped yarn 22T20f (Bright)
(2) Nylon 66 false twisted crimped yarn 44T24f (Bright)
<Easily soluble filament>
(3) Copolyester false twisted crimped yarn 22t12f (Bright)
(4) Copolyester false twisted crimped yarn 44T24f (Bright)
<Slightly soluble polyester filament>
(5) Homopolyester false twist crimped yarn 22T24f (semi-dull)

(実施例1)
経糸及び緯糸に(1)ナイロン66仮撚捲縮糸22T20f6、(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸22T12fを用い、これらを表1に示すように配置し、表1に示す密度で、また、組織としては図2(a)に示す組織のタフタを製織した。この生機を拡布状連続精練で糊抜きし、ショートループ乾燥した後、アルカリ濃度5%の液流染色機中で105℃、20分の溶解処理を行い、共重合ポリエステルを除去した。その後酸性染料で98℃40分の液流染色を行い、乾燥セットを行った。次いでフッ素系撥水剤(旭ガラス株式会社製アサヒガードAG5690 5%に明成化学工業株式会社製イソシアネート系架橋剤メイカネートTP100.6%配合の処方)に浸漬後、マングルで絞り、乾燥セットした。その後、ロール温度100℃、圧力15kg/cm、加工速度15m/分のカレンダー加工を施して織物を得た。実施例1の詳細を表1に示す。得られた織物は、経緯の易溶解性フィラメントが交差する部分には糸が存在せず隙間による格子柄が明瞭に見えるものであった。織物の経緯別の隙間率、隙間間距離、製品の非溶解部箇所、及び溶解部を含む箇所のカバーファクター、カバーファクターの減少率は表1に示す通りで、溶解部を含む通気度、滑脱抵抗力、引裂き強力は満足するものであった。
Example 1
(1) Nylon 66 false twisted crimped yarn 22T20f6 and (3) copolymer polyester false twisted crimped yarn 22T12f were used for the warp and weft, and these were arranged as shown in Table 1, with the density shown in Table 1, and As the structure, a taffeta having the structure shown in FIG. This raw machine was desized by spreading continuous scouring, dried by short loop, and then subjected to a dissolution treatment at 105 ° C. for 20 minutes in a liquid dyeing machine having an alkali concentration of 5% to remove the copolyester. Thereafter, liquid dyeing was performed with an acidic dye at 98 ° C. for 40 minutes, and a drying set was performed. Next, after immersing in a fluorine-based water repellent (Asahi Guard AG5690 5% manufactured by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd., a blend of isocyanate-based cross-linking agent Meikanate TP 100.6% manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), it was squeezed with mangle and dried. Thereafter, a woven fabric was obtained by calendaring at a roll temperature of 100 ° C., a pressure of 15 kg / cm 2 , and a processing speed of 15 m / min. Details of Example 1 are shown in Table 1. The obtained woven fabric had no lattice at the portion where the easily dissolvable filaments intersected, and the lattice pattern due to the gaps was clearly visible. Table 1 shows the clearance ratio, distance between gaps, non-dissolved part of the product, cover factor of the part including the dissolved part, and reduction rate of the cover factor as shown in Table 1. The resistance and tear strength were satisfactory.

(実施例2)
実施例1においてカバーファクターを実施例1より少なくし、仕上げ後の隙間間距離を実施例1に近似になるよう(1)ナイロン仮撚捲縮糸と(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸の配置を変えた以外は実施例1と同様に生機を製織し、同様に共重合ポリエステルの溶解除去工程、染色仕上げ工程を経て織物を得た。実施例2の詳細を表1に示す。隙間柄は実施例1と同様に明瞭に見え、その特性は表1に示すように溶解部を含む通気度、滑脱抵抗力、引裂き強力は満足できるものであった。
(Example 2)
(1) Nylon false twisted crimped yarn and (3) Copolymerized polyester false twisted crimped yarn so that the cover factor in Example 1 is less than that in Example 1 and the gap distance after finishing is similar to that in Example 1. Except for changing the arrangement, the raw machine was woven in the same manner as in Example 1, and the woven fabric was obtained through the process of dissolving and removing the copolyester and the dyeing finishing process. Details of Example 2 are shown in Table 1. The gap pattern was clearly seen as in Example 1. As shown in Table 1, the air permeability including the melted portion, the sliding resistance, and the tearing strength were satisfactory.

(実施例3)
実施例1においてカバーファクターを実施例1より多くし、仕上げ後の隙間間距離を実施例1に近似になるよう(1)ナイロン仮撚捲縮糸と(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸の配置を変えた以外は実施例1と同様に生機を製織し、同様に共重合ポリエステルの溶解除去工程、染色仕上げ工程を経て織物を得た。実施例3の詳細を表1に示す。隙間柄が明瞭に見え、その特性は表1に示すように溶解部を含む通気度、滑脱抵抗力、引裂き強力は満足できるものであった。
(Example 3)
(1) Nylon false twisted crimped yarn and (3) copolymerized polyester false twisted crimped yarn so that the cover factor in Example 1 is larger than that in Example 1 and the distance between the finished gaps is close to that of Example 1. Except for changing the arrangement, the raw machine was woven in the same manner as in Example 1, and the woven fabric was obtained through the process of dissolving and removing the copolyester and the dyeing finishing process. Details of Example 3 are shown in Table 1. The gap pattern appeared clearly, and as shown in Table 1, the air permeability including the dissolved part, the slip resistance, and the tear strength were satisfactory.

(比較例1)
実施例1においてカバーファクターを実施例2より少なくし、仕上げ後の隙間間距離を実施例1に近似になるよう(1)ナイロン仮撚捲縮糸と(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸の配置を変えた以外は実施例1と同様に生機を製織し、同様に共重合ポリエステルの溶解除去工程、染色仕上げ工程を経て織物を得た。比較例1の詳細を表1に示す。隙間部にメヨレが多く見られ、隙間部以外の箇所にもメヨレが散見された。その特性は表1に示すように溶解部を含む通気度は実施例1より多いものの、滑脱抵抗力が大幅に不良で、引裂き強力が低く、不満足な織物であった。
(Comparative Example 1)
(1) Nylon false twisted crimped yarn and (3) copolymerized polyester false twisted crimped yarn so that the cover factor in Example 1 is less than in Example 2 and the distance between the finished gaps is close to that in Example 1. Except for changing the arrangement, the raw machine was woven in the same manner as in Example 1, and the woven fabric was obtained through the process of dissolving and removing the copolyester and the dyeing finishing process. Details of Comparative Example 1 are shown in Table 1. Many mayores were found in the gaps, and some mayores were found in places other than the gaps. As shown in Table 1, the air permeability including the melted portion was higher than that of Example 1, but the slip resistance was significantly poor, the tear strength was low, and the fabric was unsatisfactory.

(比較例2)
経糸及び緯糸に(2)ナイロン66仮撚捲縮糸44T24f、(4)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸44T24fを用い、これらを表1に示すように配置し、表1に示す密度で、また、組織としては図2(a)に示す組織のタフタを製織した。実施例1と同様に共重合ポリエステルの溶解除去工程、染色仕上げ工程を経て織物を得た。比較例2の詳細を表1に示す。カバーファクターが大きく、滑脱抵抗力、引裂強力に優れるが、低通気度化し、目付が多く、軽量性に欠く織物となった。
(Comparative Example 2)
(2) Nylon 66 false twisted crimped yarn 44T24f and (4) Copolyester false twisted crimped yarn 44T24f were used for the warp and weft, and these were arranged as shown in Table 1 and at the density shown in Table 1. As the structure, a taffeta having the structure shown in FIG. In the same manner as in Example 1, a woven fabric was obtained through a dissolution removal process and a dyeing finishing process of the copolyester. Details of Comparative Example 2 are shown in Table 1. The cover factor is large, and it has excellent sliding resistance and tearing strength, but has a low air permeability, a large basis weight, and a fabric lacking in light weight.

(実施例4)
実施例1において(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸の使用本数を2本から4本に変えた以外は実施例1と同じ織物構成にし、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例4の詳細を表2に示す。表2に示すように実施例1より隙間率とカバーファクター減少率が2倍弱に増え、柄サイズが僅かに大きくなったものの実施例1より通気度の高い織物となり、その他の物性も満足できるものであった。隙間も実施例1より明瞭に見える織物であった。
Example 4
In Example 1, (3) except that the number of copolyester false twisted crimped yarns used was changed from 2 to 4, the same fabric configuration as in Example 1, and the fabric was processed through the same processing steps as in Example 1. Obtained. Details of Example 4 are shown in Table 2. As shown in Table 2, although the gap ratio and the cover factor reduction rate are slightly increased from Example 1 and the pattern size is slightly larger, the fabric has a higher air permeability than Example 1, and other physical properties are satisfactory. It was a thing. The gap was a woven fabric that was clearly visible from Example 1.

(実施例5)
実施例3において(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸の使用本数を2本から6本に変えた以外は実施例3と同じ織物構成にし、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例5の詳細を表2に示す。表2に示すように実施例3より隙間率とカバーファクター減少率が2倍以上に増え、柄サイズがやや大きくなったものの実施例3より通気度の高い織物となり、隙間も実施例3より明瞭に見え、視覚効果の大きく、滑脱抵抗力、引裂き強力とも満足するものであった。
(Example 5)
In Example 3, except that the number of (3) copolymer polyester false twisted crimped yarns used was changed from 2 to 6, the fabric was made the same as in Example 3, and the fabric was processed through the same processing steps as in Example 1. Obtained. Details of Example 5 are shown in Table 2. As shown in Table 2, the gap ratio and the cover factor reduction rate more than doubled from Example 3 and the pattern size was slightly larger, but the fabric had a higher air permeability than Example 3, and the gap was also clearer than Example 3. The visual effect was great, and the sliding resistance and tear strength were satisfactory.

(比較例3)
実施例3において(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸の使用本数を2本から10本に変えた以外は実施例3と同じ織物構成にし、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例3の詳細を表2に示す。表2に示すように実施例3より隙間率とカバーファクター減少率が5倍前後に増え、通気度が高くなったものの、隙間部にメヨレが生じ、品位の劣るもので、滑脱抵抗力、引裂き強力も低下し、実用性に欠く織物であった。
(Comparative Example 3)
In Example 3, except that the number of (3) copolymerized polyester false twisted crimped yarns used was changed from 2 to 10, the fabric configuration was the same as in Example 3, and the fabric was processed through the same processing steps as in Example 1. Obtained. Details of Comparative Example 3 are shown in Table 2. As shown in Table 2, the gap ratio and the cover factor reduction rate increased to about 5 times from Example 3 and the air permeability increased, but the gap portion was frayed and the quality was inferior, resulting in inferior quality, slip resistance, tearing The fabric also lacked practicality because its strength was reduced.

(比較例4)
実施例1において、(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸を使用せず、(1)ナイロン仮撚捲縮糸のみの織物とした。アルカリ水溶液による溶解工程を省略した以外は実施例1と同様工程を経て織物を得た。比較例4の詳細を表2に示す。織物は表2に示すように低通気度で、隙間がない為視覚効果の全くないものであった。
(Comparative Example 4)
In Example 1, (3) Copolyester false twisted crimped yarn was not used, and (1) Nylon false twisted crimped fabric was made. A woven fabric was obtained through the same steps as in Example 1 except that the dissolving step with the aqueous alkali solution was omitted. Details of Comparative Example 4 are shown in Table 2. As shown in Table 2, the woven fabric had a low air permeability and had no visual effect because there was no gap.

(実施例6)
実施例1において(1)ナイロン仮撚捲縮糸と(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸の配置を表3に示すようにした以外は実施例1と同じ織物構成にし、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例6の詳細を表3に示す。表3に示すような隙間間距離が経10.3mm、緯10.8mmの格子柄の織物であった。物性も表3に示すように満足できるものであった。
(Example 6)
In Example 1, except that the arrangement of (1) nylon false twisted crimped yarn and (3) copolymer polyester false twisted crimped yarn is as shown in Table 3, the same fabric configuration as in Example 1 was used. A woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps. Details of Example 6 are shown in Table 3. It was a lattice-patterned woven fabric having a gap distance of 10.3 mm and a weft of 10.8 mm as shown in Table 3. The physical properties were satisfactory as shown in Table 3.

(実施例7)
実施例1において(1)ナイロン仮撚捲縮糸と(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸の配置を表3に示すように実施例6より柄が大きくなるようにした以外は実施例1と同じ織物構成にし、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例7の詳細を表3に示す。表3に示すような隙間間距離が経30.3mm、緯31.8mmの格子柄の織物であった。表3に示すように通気度が下がってはいるが物性は満足できるものであった。
(Example 7)
Example 1 except that the arrangement of (1) nylon false twisted crimped yarn and (3) copolymer polyester false twisted crimped yarn in Example 1 was larger than that in Example 6 as shown in Table 3. The woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 1 with the same woven fabric configuration. Details of Example 7 are shown in Table 3. As shown in Table 3, the distance between the gaps was a lattice-patterned fabric with a warp distance of 30.3 mm and a weft length of 31.8 mm. As shown in Table 3, although the air permeability was lowered, the physical properties were satisfactory.

(比較例5)
実施例3において(1)ナイロン仮撚捲縮糸と(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸の配置を表3に示すように柄が小さくなるようにした以外は実施例3と同じ織物構成にし、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例5の詳細を表3に示す。表3に示すような隙間間距離が経2.5mm、緯2.7mmの格子柄の織物であり、物性は表3に示すように滑脱抵抗力が大きく、引裂強力も低いものであった。実施例1よりカバーファクターが多いにも拘わらずこれらが劣るのは、柄が小さ過ぎ、隙間率が多く、溶解部を含まないカバーファクターが同じである実施例5に比較し、外力に抗するに足る隙間部以外の面積が小さかったことによるものと考えられる。
(Comparative Example 5)
In Example 3, the same fabric configuration as in Example 3 except that the arrangement of (1) nylon false twisted crimped yarn and (3) copolymer polyester false twisted crimped yarn was made smaller as shown in Table 3. Then, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 1. Details of Comparative Example 5 are shown in Table 3. As shown in Table 3, it was a lattice-patterned woven fabric with a gap distance of 2.5 mm and a weft of 2.7 mm, and the physical properties were large as shown in Table 3 and the sliding resistance was low. Despite the fact that the cover factor is larger than that of Example 1, these are inferior compared to Example 5 in which the handle is too small, the gap ratio is large, and the cover factor that does not include the melted part is the same. This is considered to be due to the fact that the area other than the gap that is sufficient for the area was small.

(比較例6)
実施例1において(1)ナイロン仮撚捲縮糸と(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸の配置を表3に示すように実施例7より柄が大きくなるようにした以外は実施例1と同じ織物構成にし、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例6の詳細を表3に示す。表3に示すような隙間間距離が経60.3mm、緯63.4mmの格子柄の織物であった。表3に示すように滑脱抵抗力と引裂強力は満足するが、柄のサイズが大き過ぎて間延びした感じの柄になり、隙間率が少ないため通気度が少なく、商品力に欠けるものであった。
(Comparative Example 6)
Example 1 except that the arrangement of (1) nylon false twisted crimped yarn and (3) copolymer polyester false twisted crimped yarn in Example 1 is larger than that in Example 7 as shown in Table 3. The woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 1 with the same woven fabric configuration. Details of Comparative Example 6 are shown in Table 3. It was a lattice-patterned woven fabric having a distance between gaps of 60.3 mm and 63.4 mm as shown in Table 3. As shown in Table 3, the sliding resistance and tear strength are satisfactory, but the handle size is too large, and the handle feels extended, and the air permeability is low because the gap ratio is small, resulting in lack of product strength. .

(比較例7)
実施例1において、(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸を図2(b)に示すように経緯に3本使用した以外は実施例1と同じ織物構成にし、実施例1と同様の染色仕上げ工程を経て織物を得た。比較例7の詳細を表4に示す。物性は表4に示すように滑脱抵抗力が不満足であった。溶解部を含まないカバーファクターが同じである実施例4に対して隙間率が少ないにも拘わらず、隙間部の経緯の両際の糸がメヨレして乱れ、品位が良くなかった。両際の経糸、及び緯糸の組織がそれぞれ同じであり、いわゆる同口状になっているため糸が容易に動き易いためと考えられる。
(Comparative Example 7)
In Example 1, (3) The same woven fabric structure as Example 1 was used except that three copolyester false twisted crimped yarns were used in the background as shown in FIG. A woven fabric was obtained through a finishing process. Details of Comparative Example 7 are shown in Table 4. As shown in Table 4, the physical properties were unsatisfactory in slip resistance. In spite of a small gap ratio compared to Example 4 having the same cover factor that does not include the melted portion, the yarn at both ends of the gap portion was frayed and disturbed, and the quality was not good. It is considered that the warp yarns and the weft yarns at both ends are the same in structure, so that the yarns are easy to move because of the so-called same mouth shape.

(比較例8)
実施例1において、(3)共重合ポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸を(5)ホモポリエステル仮撚捲縮糸に変えた以外は実施例1と同じ織物とし、実施例1と同様の染色仕上げ工程を経て織物を得た。比較例8の詳細を表5に示す。ホモポリエステルはアルカリ水溶液中で殆ど溶解することなく残留し、異色柄となったものの目標とする隙間による柄効果が全く得られなかった。
(Comparative Example 8)
In Example 1, except that (3) the copolyester false twisted crimped yarn was changed to (5) a homopolyester false twisted crimped yarn, the same fabric as in Example 1 was used, and the same dyeing finishing process as in Example 1 was performed. A woven fabric was obtained. Details of Comparative Example 8 are shown in Table 5. The homopolyester remained almost undissolved in the alkaline aqueous solution, and although it had a different color pattern, the pattern effect due to the target gap was not obtained at all.

(実施例8)
実施例1の精練、乾燥セット後の織物を用い、図5(c)に示すような巾方向に全面的に抜食を施した箇所(図5(c)の5d)と抜食を施さない箇所(図5(c)の5e)を長さ方向に30cm間隔で繰り返す柄の抜食プリントを施した。
(Example 8)
Using the fabric after the scouring and drying set of Example 1, the portion (5d in FIG. 5 (c)) subjected to the full removal in the width direction as shown in FIG. 5 (c) is not subjected to the removal. A pattern punching print was repeated in which the portion (5e in FIG. 5C) was repeated in the length direction at intervals of 30 cm.

抜食は、第4級アンモニウム塩(高松油脂株式会社製カチオゾールNS11)20重量部、元糊(富士化学株式会社製フジケミHECBL−20)40重量部、水40重量部からなる印捺糊を用いて織物にプリントした後、110℃50分の蒸気処理を施し、次いでアルカリ濃度1%の液流染色機中で90℃30分の揉布処理を施し、印捺部の共重合ポリエステルを除去することによって行なった。次いでナイロンを酸性染料で、共重合ポリエステルをカチオン染料を用いて同色無地に染色して織物を得た。その後は実施例1と同じ仕上げ加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例8の詳細を表6に示す。   For biting, a printing paste comprising 20 parts by weight of a quaternary ammonium salt (Takamatsu Oil & Fats Co., Ltd., Cathizol NS11), 40 parts by weight of original glue (Fuji Chemical Co., Ltd. Fuji Chemi HECBL-20), and 40 parts by weight of water is used. After printing on the woven fabric, steam treatment at 110 ° C. for 50 minutes is performed, and then, spraying treatment is performed at 90 ° C. for 30 minutes in a liquid dyeing machine having an alkali concentration of 1% to remove the copolyester from the printing portion. It was done by Subsequently, nylon was dyed with an acid dye and the copolyester was dyed with the same color using a cationic dye to obtain a woven fabric. Thereafter, the same finishing process as in Example 1 was performed to obtain a woven fabric. Details of Example 8 are shown in Table 6.

得られた織物は、5.3mm間隔の隙間柄を有する無地の箇所(図5(c)の5d)と隙間がなく無地の箇所(図5(c)の5e)が長さ方向に30cm間隔で交互に存在するフラットな外観を呈する織物となった。織物の物性は、表6に示すように、カレンダー後の通気度は抜食箇所では13cm/cm・s、非抜食箇所では3cm/cm・sで、抜食箇所の滑脱抵抗力、引裂強力とも満足するものであった。 The obtained woven fabric has a plain portion (5d in FIG. 5 (c)) having a gap pattern with an interval of 5.3 mm and a plain portion without gap (5e in FIG. 5 (c)) at a distance of 30 cm in the length direction. It became a woven fabric having a flat appearance alternately present. Physical properties of the fabric, as shown in Table 6, the air permeability after calendar 13cm 3 / cm 2 · s at抜食places, at 3cm 3 / cm 2 · s is a non抜食locations, edgecomb resistance抜食locations Both the strength and tear strength were satisfactory.

以上の実施例及び比較例の結果から少なくとも以下のことを導くことができる。
(i)表1(実施例1〜3、比較例1、2)から、カバーファクターに適正範囲があり、それより少ないとメヨレし易い。また、多いと目付が重くなり、軽量性が得られない。
(ii)表2(実施例4〜5、比較例3〜4)から、隙間率(隙間の大きさ)に適正範囲があり、隙間がないと視覚効果が全くなく、少ないと通気度が得られにくい。多過ぎると滑脱抵抗力が悪化する。
(iii)表3(実施例6〜7、比較例5〜6)から、隙間間の距離(柄サイズ)に適正範囲があり、小さ過ぎると滑脱抵抗力が悪化し、大き過ぎると通気度が得られにくく、間延びした柄になってしまう。
(iv)表4(比較例7)と実施例1から、隙間部の両際の糸の配置が同じであると同口状になり、メヨレし易くなり、両際の糸の配置がヒラ組織になっているとメヨレしにくい。
(v)表5(比較例8)と実施例1から、溶解除去するポリエステルは難溶解性のホモポリエステルでは目的達成が困難である。
(vi)表6(実施例8)と実施例1から、隙間柄は、経緯に直線的に構成された幾何学的な柄(格子柄、縞柄、ボーダー柄)や、抜食による具象柄、抽象柄の表現が可能で、これにより織物に適度な通気度と視覚効果を付与できる。
At least the following can be derived from the results of the above Examples and Comparative Examples.
(I) From Table 1 (Examples 1 to 3, Comparative Examples 1 and 2), the cover factor has an appropriate range. Moreover, when there are many, a fabric weight will become heavy and a lightweight property will not be acquired.
(Ii) From Table 2 (Examples 4 to 5 and Comparative Examples 3 to 4), there is an appropriate range for the gap ratio (size of the gap), there is no visual effect if there is no gap, and if it is less, the air permeability is obtained. It's hard to be done If it is too much, the slip resistance will deteriorate.
(Iii) From Table 3 (Examples 6 to 7 and Comparative Examples 5 to 6), there is an appropriate range for the distance between the gaps (pattern size). If the distance is too small, the slip resistance is deteriorated. It is difficult to obtain, resulting in an extended pattern.
(Iv) From Table 4 (Comparative Example 7) and Example 1, when the arrangement of the yarns at both ends of the gap portion is the same, it becomes the same mouth shape, so that it is easy to fray, and the arrangement of the yarns at both ends is a flat texture If it is, it will be difficult to fray.
(V) From Table 5 (Comparative Example 8) and Example 1, the polyester to be dissolved and removed is difficult to achieve with a hardly soluble homopolyester.
(Vi) From Table 6 (Example 8) and Example 1, the gap pattern is a geometric pattern (lattice pattern, striped pattern, border pattern) configured linearly in the context, a concrete pattern by eating, An abstract pattern can be expressed, which gives the fabric an appropriate air permeability and visual effect.

本発明によれば、適度な防風性と通気性を併せ持ち、しかも表面に涼感を与える隙間が視覚的に見える軽量高密度織物を提供することができ、この織物を使用してアウトドアウェア、スポーツウェア、カジュアルウェア、または寝袋の製品を好適に製造することができる。   According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a lightweight and high-density fabric that has both moderate windproof properties and air permeability, and that can visually provide a gap that gives a cool feeling to the surface. Casual wear or sleeping bag products can be suitably manufactured.

Claims (4)

カバーファクターが1550〜2300であり、目付が15〜55g/mである軽量高密度織物であって、織物に隙間によって形成された柄が存在し、以下の(i)〜(iii)の条件を満足することを特徴とする織物:
(i)隙間率が経緯ともに0.5〜14%であること;
(ii)隙間間の距離が経緯ともに3.5〜50mmであること;及び
(iii)隙間部の両際の組織がヒラ組織であること
A lightweight high-density fabric having a cover factor of 1550 to 2300 and a basis weight of 15 to 55 g / m 2 , wherein a pattern formed by a gap exists in the fabric, and the following conditions (i) to ( iii ) A fabric characterized by satisfying:
(I) The clearance ratio is 0.5 to 14% in both circumstances ;
(Ii) The distance between the gaps is 3.5 to 50 mm in both circumstances ; and (iii) the structures on both sides of the gap are a flat structure .
通気性が2〜40cm/cm・sであり、117N荷重下の滑脱抵抗力が3mm以下であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の織物。 2. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the air permeability is 2 to 40 cm 3 / cm 2 · s, and the sliding resistance under a load of 117 N is 3 mm or less. スポーツウェア、アウトドアウェア、カジュアルウェア、または寝袋から選択される繊維製品であって、請求項1または2に記載の織物を用いたことを特徴とする繊維製品。   A textile product selected from sportswear, outdoor wear, casual wear, or sleeping bag, wherein the fabric according to claim 1 or 2 is used. 隙間が、難溶解性繊維と交織された易溶解性繊維を全面的にまたは部分的に溶解除去して得られることを特徴とする請求項1または2に記載の織物の製造方法。The method for producing a woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the gap is obtained by completely or partially dissolving and removing the easily soluble fiber interwoven with the hardly soluble fiber.
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JP2001295173A (en) * 2000-04-11 2001-10-26 Teijin Ltd Method for producing refreshing material
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