JP5654774B2 - Tricot stretch knitted fabric - Google Patents

Tricot stretch knitted fabric Download PDF

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JP5654774B2
JP5654774B2 JP2010120112A JP2010120112A JP5654774B2 JP 5654774 B2 JP5654774 B2 JP 5654774B2 JP 2010120112 A JP2010120112 A JP 2010120112A JP 2010120112 A JP2010120112 A JP 2010120112A JP 5654774 B2 JP5654774 B2 JP 5654774B2
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knitted fabric
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filament yarn
polyester filament
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JP2011246836A (en
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晃啓 土田
晃啓 土田
和弘 堂前
和弘 堂前
和生 原田
和生 原田
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Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd
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Description

本発明は、トリコットストレッチ編地に関する。   The present invention relates to a tricot stretch knitted fabric.

弾性糸と非弾性糸を用いたトリコット編地は、ストレッチ性に優れることから、スポーツ衣料や下着に広く用いられており、特に、昨今ではスポーツウエア用インナー(アンダーウエアともいう)としても好評である。このスポーツウエア用インナーの素材には、より薄く、軽い、ボディフィット性のよい、快適な着用感のトリコット編地が求められており、各種商品が開発されているが、未だ満足すべきものが得られているとは言えない。   Tricot knitted fabrics using elastic and inelastic yarns are widely used in sports clothing and underwear due to their excellent stretchability. Especially, these are popular as innerwear for sportswear (also called underwear). is there. This sportswear inner material is required to have a tricot knitted fabric that is thinner, lighter, has a good body fit, and is comfortable to wear, and various products have been developed. It cannot be said that it is done.

例えば、ポリウレタン繊維等の弾性糸とナイロンフィラメント糸を用いたトリコット編地は、ナイロンフィラメント糸が湿潤時に膨張する性質があるため、形態安定性に問題が生じ、また風合いにヌメリ感があり、着用感の点でも問題がある。   For example, a tricot knitted fabric using elastic yarn such as polyurethane fiber and nylon filament yarn has the property that the nylon filament yarn expands when wet, which causes problems in form stability, and the texture is slimy and worn. There is also a problem in terms of feeling.

ナイロンフィラメント糸に代え水膨潤性の問題のないポリエステルフィラメント糸を用いて弾性糸と混用したトリコット編地が上市されているが、ポリエステルフィラメント糸の高ヤング率による風合いの硬さが問題となり、また、染色時に分散染料が弾性糸のポリウレタン繊維に多量に染着されるため、洗濯堅牢度や昇華堅牢度が問題となり、さらに、ポリエステルフィラメント糸の染色での温度が130℃と高くポリウレタン繊維の劣化を生じる。   Tricot knitted fabric mixed with elastic yarn using polyester filament yarn that does not have a problem of water swelling instead of nylon filament yarn is on the market, but the hardness of the texture due to the high Young's modulus of the polyester filament yarn becomes a problem, Since the disperse dye is dyed in a large amount on the elastic yarn polyurethane fiber at the time of dyeing, the fastness to washing and sublimation fastness becomes a problem, and the polyester filament yarn is dyed at a high temperature of 130 ° C. Produce.

また、堅牢度対策としてカチオン染料可染型のポリエステルフィラメント糸を用いたものもあるが、通常のヤング率、単糸繊度のカチオン染料可染型のポリエステルフィラメント糸を用いたのでは、そのトリコット編地は風合いが硬く、満足のいく商品を得るに至っていない。   In addition, some dye dyeable polyester filament yarns are used as a measure against fastness. However, if a normal dye modulus polyester yarn yarn with a single yarn fineness is used, the tricot The ground is hard and has not yet yielded satisfactory products.

本発明の要旨は、ヤング率が85CN/dtex以下、単糸繊度が1dtex以下であり、5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸及びアジピン酸の共重合ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなるカチオン染料により染色温度が105℃以下で染色可能なカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸と、弾性糸とからなり、下記条件1〜4を満足するトリコットストレッチ編地、にある。
1.編地の伸長率がタテ方向200%以上、ヨコ方向100%以上
2.編地の伸長回復率がタテ方向、ヨコ方向それぞれ80%以上
3.編地のタテ方向50%伸長時の伸長力が51CN/2.5cm以上60CN/2.5cm以下、ヨコ方向50%伸長時の伸長力が64CN/2.5cm以上100CN/2.5cm以下
4.編地の仕上げ目付が150〜250g/m
Gist of the present invention has a Young's modulus 85CN / dtex less, single yarn fineness of Ri der less 1 dtex, the dyeing temperature by cationic dye consisting of copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and adipic acid at 105 ° C. or less The tricot stretch knitted fabric is composed of a dyeable cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn and an elastic yarn, and satisfies the following conditions 1 to 4.
1. 1. Elongation rate of the knitted fabric is 200% or more in the vertical direction and 100% or more in the horizontal direction. 2. The stretch recovery rate of the knitted fabric is 80% or more in each of the vertical and horizontal directions. 3. Stretching force when stretched 50% in the warp direction is 51 CN / 2.5 cm or more and 60 CN / 2.5 cm or less, and stretching force when stretched 50% in the width direction is 64 CN / 2.5 cm or more and 100 CN / 2.5 cm or less. The finish basis weight of the knitted fabric is 150 to 250 g / m 2

本発明の要旨は、ヤング率が85CN/dtex以下、単糸繊度が1dtex以下である110℃以下で染色可能なカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸と、弾性糸とからなり、下記条件1〜4を満足するトリコットストレッチ編地、にある。
1.編地の伸長率がタテ方向200%以上、ヨコ方向100%以上
2.編地の伸長回復率がタテ方向、ヨコ方向それぞれ80%以上
3.編地のタテ方向50%伸長時の伸長力が60CN/2.5cm以下、ヨコ方向50%伸長時の伸長力が100CN/2.5cm以下
4.編地の仕上げ目付が150〜250g/m
The gist of the present invention consists of a cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn that can be dyed at 110 ° C. or less, which has a Young's modulus of 85 CN / dtex or less, and a single yarn fineness of 1 dtex or less, and an elastic yarn. The tricot stretch knitted fabric, which satisfies the requirements.
1. 1. Elongation rate of the knitted fabric is 200% or more in the vertical direction and 100% or more in the horizontal direction. 2. The stretch recovery rate of the knitted fabric is 80% or more in each of the vertical and horizontal directions. 3. Stretching force when stretched 50% in the warp direction is 60 CN / 2.5 cm or less, and stretching force when stretched 50% in the width direction is 100 CN / 2.5 cm or less. Knitted fabric of finished basis weight of 150~250g / m 2

本発明においては、ポリエステルフィラメント糸を、ヤング率が85CN/dtex以下、単糸繊度が1dtex以下のポリエステルフィラメント糸とすることにより、絹に近い風合い、肌に刺激の少ないマイルドな肌触りとソフトな風合い、しかも、ポリエステルフィラメント糸を、染色温度が高温ではないカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸とすることにより、弾性糸と共にトリコット編地としたときに、優れた発色性、染色堅牢性が得られ、本発明によれば、快適な着用感と身体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性に優れ、発色性と染色堅牢度にも優れたトリコットストレッチ編地が得られる。   In the present invention, the polyester filament yarn is a polyester filament yarn having a Young's modulus of 85 CN / dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1 dtex or less, so that it feels close to silk, has a mild touch and soft texture that is less irritating to the skin. Moreover, when the polyester filament yarn is a cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn whose dyeing temperature is not high, when it is made into a tricot knitted fabric together with an elastic yarn, excellent color development and dyeing fastness are obtained. According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a tricot stretch knitted fabric that is excellent in comfortable wearing feeling and body fit following the movement of the body without a sense of incongruity, and also excellent in color development and dyeing fastness.

本発明において、カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸は、ヤング率が85CN/dtex以下であることが必要であり、好ましくは、ヤング率75CN/dtex以下である。ヤング率が85CN/dtexを超えると、編地に硬さが感じられ、本発明の目的とする快適な着用感と身体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性が得られない。因みに絹のヤング率は、62CN/dtexであり、一般にレギュラー糸として市販されているポリエステルフィラメント糸のヤング率は124CN/dtexである。   In the present invention, the dye dyeable polyester filament yarn needs to have a Young's modulus of 85 CN / dtex or less, and preferably has a Young's modulus of 75 CN / dtex or less. If the Young's modulus exceeds 85 CN / dtex, the knitted fabric will be hard, and the comfortable fit and the body fit that follows the movement of the body, which is the object of the present invention, will not be obtained. Incidentally, the Young's modulus of silk is 62CN / dtex, and the Young's modulus of a polyester filament yarn generally marketed as a regular yarn is 124CN / dtex.

本発明におけるカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸は、単糸(単繊維ともいわれる)繊度が1dtex以下である必要がある。単糸繊度が1dtexを超えると、編地に硬さが感じられ、本発明の目的とする快適な着用感と身体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性が得られない。なお、絹の構成単糸繊度は、1.4〜3.1dtex程度であり、細くて高級なものでも1dtexを超える。   The cationic dye dyeable polyester filament yarn in the present invention needs to have a single yarn (also referred to as single fiber) fineness of 1 dtex or less. When the single yarn fineness exceeds 1 dtex, the knitted fabric is felt to be hard, and the comfortable fit and the body fit that follows the movement of the body, which is the object of the present invention, cannot be obtained. In addition, the single yarn fineness of the silk is about 1.4 to 3.1 dtex, and even a thin and high-quality one exceeds 1 dtex.

本発明におけるカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸は、カチオン染料によ染色温度が110℃以下、好ましくは105℃以下で染色可能であることが必要である。染色温度が110℃を超えると、弾性糸の劣化が大きくなり、セット性も低下するため、使用可能な弾性糸が制約される。 Cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn of the present invention, dyeing temperature Ri by the cationic dye is 110 ° C. or less, preferably must be able stained with 105 ° C. or less. When the dyeing temperature exceeds 110 ° C., the elastic yarn is greatly deteriorated and the setability is also lowered, so that usable elastic yarn is restricted.

本発明における前記のヤング率、単糸繊度、染色性を有するカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸としては、例えば、ポリエチレンテレフタレートに5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸及びアジピン酸を共重合させたポリエステルポリマーを溶融紡糸することによって得られる。より具体的には、かかるポリエステルポリマーとして、ポリエチレンテレフタレートに5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸0.5〜5.0モル%及びアジピン酸2.0〜13.0モル%を共重合させたポリエステルポリマーが挙げられる。   Examples of the cationic dye dyeable polyester filament yarn having Young's modulus, single yarn fineness, and dyeability in the present invention include, for example, a polyester polymer obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and adipic acid. Obtained by spinning. More specifically, as such a polyester polymer, a polyester polymer obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 0.5 to 5.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 2.0 to 13.0 mol% of adipic acid is mentioned. It is done.

共重合させる5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸が、0.5モル%未満では、カチオン染料可染性が不足するとともに、ヤング率が高くなり、糸のソフト感、やわらかさが不十分なものとなり、5.0モル%を超えると、フィラメント糸での繊維強度が低下する。またアジピン酸が2.0モル%未満では、染色温度を低くする効果が不十分であり、13.0モル%を超えると、フィラメント糸としての繊維強度が低下する。   If the amount of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid to be copolymerized is less than 0.5 mol%, the dyeability of the cationic dye is insufficient, the Young's modulus is increased, and the softness and softness of the yarn are insufficient. If it exceeds 0.0 mol%, the fiber strength of the filament yarn is lowered. Moreover, if adipic acid is less than 2.0 mol%, the effect which makes dyeing temperature low is inadequate, and if it exceeds 13.0 mol%, the fiber strength as a filament yarn will fall.

前記共重合ポリエステルポリマーは、溶融紡糸によって単糸繊度が1dtex以下のフィラメント糸に製糸されるが、例えば、従来の紡糸方法の諸条件を、細繊度を得る条件にした紡糸方法、すなわち紡糸口金の孔径を小さくし、ポリマーの吐出量を小さくし、紡糸速度をひくくした条件で紡糸する方法で紡糸する等により、単糸繊度の細繊度化が行われ、製糸方法については特に限定するものではない。   The copolyester polymer is produced into a filament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1 dtex or less by melt spinning. For example, a spinning method in which various conditions of a conventional spinning method are obtained to obtain a fineness, that is, a spinneret is used. The fineness of the single yarn is reduced by, for example, spinning by a method of spinning under the condition that the pore diameter is reduced, the discharge amount of the polymer is reduced, and the spinning speed is increased, and the spinning method is not particularly limited. .

本発明におけるカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸は、前述の条件を満たしていれば、単糸の断面形状、表面形状、艶等を特に限定するものではないが、酸化チタン無添加のブライトの丸断面糸では、鮮明性や深色性に優れたものが得られ、酸化チタンを添加のフルダルとすることにより、紫外線カットの効果が得られる等、ポリエステルフィラメント糸の特長である機能性も十分に発揮することができる。また、カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸の形態は、エア交絡のないものでもよいが、編成性向上のため、原糸製造段階でエア交絡処理され、エア交絡のあるものが好ましく用いられる。   The cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited in terms of the cross-sectional shape, surface shape, gloss, etc. of the single yarn as long as the above-described conditions are satisfied. For cross-sectional yarns, those with excellent sharpness and deep color are obtained, and the functionality that is the feature of polyester filament yarn is sufficient, such as the effect of UV protection by obtaining titanium oxide-added full dull. It can be demonstrated. Further, the form of the cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn may be one without air entanglement, but in order to improve the knitting property, the one that is air entangled in the raw yarn manufacturing stage and has air entanglement is preferably used.

また、本発明において、弾性糸として、例えば、ポリエステル系ポリウレタン弾性糸、ポリエーテル系ポリウレタン弾性糸が挙げられ、その製法や種類を特に限定するものではない。これ等の弾性糸は、カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸と共に用いられ、伸長性が極めて高く、小さな力で伸長するため、身体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性に優れたストレッチ編地を得る際に好適に用いられる。   In the present invention, examples of the elastic yarn include polyester-based polyurethane elastic yarn and polyether-based polyurethane elastic yarn, and the production method and type thereof are not particularly limited. These elastic yarns are used together with cationic dye dyeable polyester filament yarns, and have extremely high extensibility and stretch with a small force, so stretch knitted fabrics with excellent body fit that follows the movement of the body without a sense of incongruity. It is suitably used when obtaining.

本発明のトリコットストレッチ編地の組織や密度等は、特に限定するものではなく、各種衣料としての使用目的、特にスポーツウエア用インナーとしての使用目的とする、薄くて軽く、快適な着用感と身体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性に優れた、筬枚数、トリコット組織を考慮して任意に選定すればよい。例えば、より薄い編地を得るためには、筬枚数が3バーよりも2バー使い、組織はハーフ組織が好ましく用いられる。   The structure, density, etc. of the tricot stretch knitted fabric of the present invention are not particularly limited, and are intended to be used as various apparel, particularly as an inner for sportswear. What is necessary is just to select arbitrarily considering the number of heels and the tricot structure which are excellent in the body fitting property which follows the movement of the body without discomfort. For example, in order to obtain a thinner knitted fabric, the number of ridges is 2 bars rather than 3 bars, and the structure is preferably a half structure.

本発明におけるトリコットストレッチ編地は、次の条件1〜4を満足することが必要である。条件1として、編地の伸長率がタテ方向200%以上、好ましくは250%以上 ヨコ方向100%以上、好ましくは110%以上である。タテ方向の伸長率が200%未満、ヨコ方向の伸長率が100%未満では、着用して運動する時に抵抗が強くなり、本発明の目的とする、身体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性が得られない。   The tricot stretch knitted fabric in the present invention is required to satisfy the following conditions 1 to 4. As condition 1, the stretch rate of the knitted fabric is 200% or more in the warp direction, preferably 250% or more, and is 100% or more in the transverse direction, preferably 110% or more. When the stretch rate in the vertical direction is less than 200% and the stretch rate in the horizontal direction is less than 100%, resistance increases when wearing and exercising, and the object of the present invention is a body fit property that follows the movement of the body without a sense of incongruity. Cannot be obtained.

条件2として、編地の伸長回復率がタテ方向、ヨコ方向それぞれ80%以上である。伸長回復率が80%未満では、編地が伸びて戻らない状態が生じ、ボディフィット感が低下し、本発明の目的とする、身体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性が得られない。   As condition 2, the stretch recovery rate of the knitted fabric is 80% or more in each of the vertical and horizontal directions. When the elongation recovery rate is less than 80%, the knitted fabric does not stretch and returns, and the body fit is lowered, and the body fit that follows the movement of the body without any sense of incongruity, which is the object of the present invention, cannot be obtained.

条件3として、編地のタテ方向50%伸長時の伸長力が60CN/2.5cm以下、ヨコ方向50%伸長時の伸長力が100CN/2.5cm以下である。タテ方向50%伸長時の伸長力が60CN/2.5cmを超え、またヨコ方向50%伸長時の伸長力が100CN/2.5cmを超えると、身体の締め付けが強く感じられ、違和感が生じ本発明の目的とする、体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性が得られない。   As condition 3, the stretching force when the knitted fabric is stretched by 50% in the warp direction is 60 CN / 2.5 cm or less, and the stretching force when the fabric is stretched by 50% is 100 CN / 2.5 cm or less. If the extension force when extending 50% in the vertical direction exceeds 60 CN / 2.5 cm, and if the extension force when extending 50% in the horizontal direction exceeds 100 CN / 2.5 cm, the body will be strongly tightened and a sense of incongruity will occur. The object of the invention, the body fit that follows the movement of the body without a sense of incongruity cannot be obtained.

条件4として、編地の仕上げ目付は150〜250g/mである。目付が150g/m未満では、強度が得られず、250g/mを超えると、厚み感や重量感が増し、本発明の目的とする、各種スポーツウエアのインナーに適した薄くて軽く、快適な着用感等の特長が得られない。 As condition 4, the finish basis weight of the knitted fabric is 150 to 250 g / m 2 . If the basis weight is less than 150 g / m 2 , the strength cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 250 g / m 2 , the feeling of thickness and weight increases, and it is thin and light suitable for the inner of various sportswear for the purpose of the present invention. Features such as a comfortable wearing feeling cannot be obtained.

本発明のトリコットストレッチ編地に用いるカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸には、強度や布厚、軽さ、着用感等の観点から。糸繊度が33〜44dtexの細繊度のフィラメント糸が好ましく用いられる。また、弾性糸には、繊度も布厚や軽さ、着用感等の観点から、糸繊度が56dtex以下の細繊度のものが好ましく用いられる。   The cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn used in the tricot stretch knitted fabric of the present invention is from the viewpoint of strength, fabric thickness, lightness, wearing feeling, and the like. A filament yarn having a fineness of 33 to 44 dtex is preferably used. Further, as the elastic yarn, those having a fineness of 56 dtex or less are preferably used from the viewpoints of the fineness and thickness, lightness, and wearing feeling.

本発明のトリコットストレッチ編地は、通常のトリコット編地を編成するのと同様にして編成され、カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸、弾性糸の配置、編立て組織、編機等については特に制限はない。本発明のトリコットストレッチ編地におけるカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸と弾性糸との構成比(混率)は、カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸60〜90質量%、弾性糸40〜10質量%であることが各構成糸の機能を発揮させるうえで好ましい。   The tricot stretch knitted fabric of the present invention is knitted in the same manner as knitting a normal tricot knitted fabric, and there are particular restrictions on cationic dye dyeable polyester filament yarn, arrangement of elastic yarn, knitting structure, knitting machine, etc. There is no. The composition ratio (mixing ratio) of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn and the elastic yarn in the tricot stretch knitted fabric of the present invention is 60 to 90% by mass of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn and 40 to 10% by mass of the elastic yarn. It is preferable to have the function of each constituent yarn.

以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。本発明及び実施例中のヤング率、伸長率、伸長回復率、50%伸長時の伸長力は下記の試験方法によったものである。
ヤング率(初期引張抵抗度):JIS L−1013に準拠
伸長率:JIS L−1018の2に準拠
伸長回復率:JIS L−1018の2に準拠
50%伸長時の伸長力:JIS L−1018の2に準拠
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. The Young's modulus, elongation rate, elongation recovery rate, and elongation at 50% elongation in the present invention and examples are based on the following test methods.
Young's modulus (initial tensile resistance): compliant with JIS L-1013 Elongation rate: compliant with JIS L-1018-2 Elongation recovery rate: compliant with JIS L-1018-2 Elongation force at 50% elongation: JIS L-1018 Conforms to 2

なお、実施例中、風合いや着用感等はハンドリングによって評価した。また、カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸を酸化チタン添加のフルダルとしたきの紫外線遮蔽率、紫外線保護係数(UPF)の測定法は以下のとおりである。
紫外線遮蔽率:日本化学繊維協会、分光光度計・全波長域平均法に準拠
紫外線保護係数(UPF):AS/NZS 4399(1996)に準拠
In the examples, texture, wearing feeling, and the like were evaluated by handling. The method for measuring the UV shielding factor and UV protection factor (UPF) when the cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn is made into a titanium oxide-added fuller is as follows.
UV shielding rate: according to the Japan Chemical Fiber Association, spectrophotometer, all-wavelength average method UV protection factor (UPF): according to AS / NZS 4399 (1996)

(実施例1)
カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸として、5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸2.25モル%及びアジピン酸5モルを共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマを用いて溶融紡糸してなる、カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸ブライト33dtex/36フィラメント(f)(単糸丸断面、ヤング率70CN/dtex、単糸繊度0.9dtex)を用いた。このブライトフィラメント糸をフロント部に配し、22dtexのポリエーテル系ポリウレタン弾性糸(旭化成せんい社製)をバック部に配して、経編機(カールマイヤー社製、ゲージ:32G)で編立てた。
Example 1
Cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn prepared by melt spinning using polyethylene terephthalate polymer copolymerized with 2.25 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 5 mol of adipic acid. Bright 33 dtex / 36 filament (f) (single yarn round section, Young's modulus 70 CN / dtex, single yarn fineness 0.9 dtex) was used. This bright filament yarn was placed on the front, 22 dtex polyether-based polyurethane elastic yarn (Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) was placed on the back, and knitted with a warp knitting machine (Karl Mayer, gauge: 32G). .

編立て組織は、フロント1−0/2−3、バック1−2/1−0のハーフ組織で、このときの編立密度機上コースは65コース/吋で、前記ポリエステルフィラメント糸混率84質量%、ポリウレタン弾性糸混率16質量%であった。得られた生機を常法によりカチオン染料にて染色温度105℃で紺色に染色し、仕上げ巾150cm、ウエール64/吋、コース132/吋、目付180g/mに仕上げた。得られた編地のストレッチ特性は、表1に示すとおりであり、得られた編地は、薄くて軽く、快適な着用感と体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性に優れた、各種スポーツウエアでのインナー用素材として好適なストレッチ性のある経編地であった。 The knitting structure is a half structure of the front 1-0 / 2-3 and the back 1-2 / 1-0, and the course on the knitting density machine is 65 courses / 吋 and the polyester filament yarn mixing ratio is 84 mass. %, And the polyurethane elastic yarn mixing ratio was 16% by mass. The obtained raw machine was dyed amber with a cationic dye at a dyeing temperature of 105 ° C. by a conventional method, and finished to a finishing width of 150 cm, a wale of 64 / 吋, a course of 132 / 吋, and a basis weight of 180 g / m 2 . The stretch characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric are as shown in Table 1, and the obtained knitted fabric is thin and light, and has various body fit properties that follow a comfortable wearing feeling and body movement without discomfort. It was a warp knitted fabric with stretchability suitable as an inner material in sportswear.

(実施例2)
カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸として、実施例1でフィラメント糸の製造に用いた共重合ポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマに代えて、酸化チタンを1.5質量%添加した共重合ポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマを用いた以外は、実施例1と同じ条件で溶融紡糸して製造したカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸フルダル33dtex/36f(単糸丸断面、ヤング率70CN/dtex、単糸繊度0.9dtex)を用いた。このフルダルフィラメント糸をフロント部に配し、44dtexのポリエーテル系ポリウレタン弾性糸(旭化成せんい社製)をバック部に配し、経編機(カールマイヤー社製、ゲージ:32G)で編立てた。
(Example 2)
As the cationic dyeable dyeable polyester filament yarn, a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate polymer added with 1.5% by mass of titanium oxide was used in place of the copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate polymer used in the production of the filament yarn in Example 1. A cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn fullal 33 dtex / 36f (single yarn round cross section, Young's modulus 70 CN / dtex, single yarn fineness 0.9 dtex) produced by melt spinning under the same conditions as in Example 1 was used. This full-dal filament yarn was arranged on the front part, and 44 dtex polyether polyurethane elastic yarn (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) was arranged on the back part.

編立て組織は、フロント1−0/2−3、バック1−2/1−0のハーフ組織で、このときの編立密度機上コースは65コース/吋で、前記ポリエステルフィラメント糸混率71質量%、ポリウレタン弾性糸混率29質量%であった。得られた生機を常法によりカチオン染料にて染色温度105℃で紺色に染色し、仕上げ巾150cm、ウエール67/吋、コース132/吋、目付210g/mに仕上げた。得られた編物のストレッチ特性は、表1に示すとおりであり、得られた編地は、薄くて軽く、快適な着用感と体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性に優れた、各種スポーツウエアでのインナー用素材として好適なストレッチ性のある経編地であった。 The knitting structure is a half structure of the front 1-0 / 2-3 and the back 1-2 / 1-0, and the course on the knitting density machine is 65 courses / 吋, and the polyester filament yarn mixing ratio is 71 mass. %, And the polyurethane elastic yarn mixing ratio was 29 mass%. The obtained raw machine was dyed amber with a cationic dye at a dyeing temperature of 105 ° C. by a conventional method, and finished to a finishing width of 150 cm, a wale of 67 / 吋, a course of 132 / 吋, and a basis weight of 210 g / m 2 . The stretch characteristics of the obtained knitted fabrics are as shown in Table 1, and the obtained knitted fabrics are thin and light, and various sports excellent in body fitting properties that follow comfortable wearing feeling and body movement without a sense of incongruity. It was a warp knitted fabric with a stretch property suitable as an inner material for wear.

さらに、カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸がフルダルであることの紫外線カット効果を確認するため、実施例1、実施例2でそれぞれ得た編地をオフ白に染色仕上したもので比較した結果を示すと、実施例1での編地は、紫外線遮蔽率83.0%、UPF値18で、実施例2での編地は、紫外線遮蔽率97.2%、UPF値50+であり、酸化チタンを添加したときには紫外線カット効果が認められた。   Furthermore, in order to confirm the UV-cutting effect of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn being full, the results of comparing the knitted fabrics obtained in Example 1 and Example 2 with an off-white dyeing finish were compared. As shown, the knitted fabric in Example 1 has an ultraviolet shielding rate of 83.0% and a UPF value of 18, and the knitted fabric in Example 2 has an ultraviolet shielding rate of 97.2% and a UPF value of 50+. When UV was added, an ultraviolet cut effect was observed.

(比較例1)
カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸として、実施例2と同じ酸化チタンを1.5質量%添加した共重合ポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマを用いた以外は、実施例2と同様に溶融紡糸して製造したカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸フルダル56dtex/36f(単糸丸断面、ヤング率70CN/dtex、単糸繊度1.6dtex)を用いた。このフルダルフィラメント糸を、ダブルツイスター(村田機械社製)によりスピンドル回転数10000rpm、撚糸張力20gでS撚り1000T/mに撚糸し、80℃で40分撚止めセット後、フロント部に配し、22dtexのポリエーテル系ポリウレタン弾性糸(旭化成せんい社製)をバック部に配し、経編機(カールマイヤー社製、ゲージ:36G)で編立てた。
(Comparative Example 1)
Cationic dye produced by melt spinning as in Example 2, except that the copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate polymer added with 1.5% by mass of titanium oxide as in Example 2 was used as the cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn. A dyeable polyester filament yarn fullal 56 dtex / 36f (single yarn round section, Young's modulus 70 CN / dtex, single yarn fineness 1.6 dtex) was used. This full dull filament yarn was twisted to 1000 T / m with S twist at a spindle rotation speed of 10000 rpm and a twist tension of 20 g by a double twister (manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.), set at 80 ° C. for 40 minutes, and then placed on the front part to obtain 22 dtex. A polyether-based polyurethane elastic yarn (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) was placed in the back portion and knitted with a warp knitting machine (manufactured by KARL MAYER, gauge: 36G).

編立て組織は、フロント1−0/2−3、バック1−2/1−0のハーフ組織で、このときの編立密度機上コースは60コース/吋で、前記ポリエステルフィラメント糸混率90質量%、ポリウレタン弾性糸混率10質量%であった。得られた生機を常法によりカチオン染料にて染色温度105℃で紺色に染色し、仕上げ巾150cm、ウエール72/吋、コース124/吋、目付310g/mに仕上げた。 得られた編地のストレッチ特性は、表1に示すとおりであり、得られた編地は、十分なストレッチ特性を有し、紫外線カット効果(紫外線遮蔽率99%、UPF値50+)も認められたが、編地の目付が大きいため、重量感、布厚感があり、身体の動きに追随するボディフィット性に違和感があった。また、得られた編地は、用いたカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸の単糸繊度が太いことから、実施例1や実施例2での編地に比べて肌触りや編地のソフト感に劣るものであった。 The knitting structure is a half structure of a front 1-0 / 2-3 and a back 1-2 / 1-0, and the course on the knitting density machine is 60 courses / 吋, and the polyester filament yarn mixing ratio is 90 mass. %, And the polyurethane elastic yarn mixing ratio was 10% by mass. The obtained raw machine was dyed amber with a cationic dye at a dyeing temperature of 105 ° C. by a conventional method, and finished to a finishing width of 150 cm, a wale of 72 / 吋, a course of 124 / 吋, and a basis weight of 310 g / m 2 . The stretch characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric are as shown in Table 1. The obtained knitted fabric has sufficient stretch characteristics, and an ultraviolet cut effect (UV shielding rate 99%, UPF value 50+) is also recognized. However, since the basis weight of the knitted fabric was large, there was a sense of weight and fabric thickness, and there was a sense of incongruity in the body fit that followed the movement of the body. In addition, the obtained knitted fabric is thicker than the knitted fabric in Examples 1 and 2, because the single yarn fineness of the used cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn is thick. It was inferior.

(比較例2)
未変性のポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマからなる通常のポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸セミダル33dtex/24f(の丸断面(三菱レイヨン・テキスタイル社製、単糸丸断面、ヤング率124CN/dtex、単糸繊度1.4dtex)を用い、このフィラメント糸をフロント部に配し、22dtexのポリエーテル系ポリウレタン弾性糸(旭化成せんい社製)をバック部に配し、経編機(カールマイヤー社製、ゲージ:32G)で編立てた。編立て組織は、フロント1−0/2−3、バック1−2/1−0のハーフ組織で、このときの編立密度機上コースは65コース/吋で、前記ポリエステルフィラメント糸混率84質量%、ポリウレタン弾性糸混率16質量%であった。得られた生機を常法により分散染料にて染色温度120℃で紺色に染色し、仕上げ巾150cm、ウエール64/吋、コース132/吋、目付180g/mに仕上げた。 得られた編地のストレッチ特性は、表1に示すとおりであり、得られた編地は、十分なストレッチ特性を有していたが、ポリエステルフィラメント糸のヤング率が高いことから、肌触りに硬さがあり、快適な着用感と身体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性には劣るものであった。
(Comparative Example 2)
Using a normal polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn semi-dal 33dtex / 24f made of unmodified polyethylene terephthalate polymer (with a round cross section (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co., Ltd., single yarn round cross section, Young's modulus 124CN / dtex, single yarn fineness 1.4dtex) The filament yarn was placed on the front part, and 22 dtex polyether polyurethane elastic yarn (Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) was placed on the back part, and knitted with a warp knitting machine (Karl Mayer, gauge: 32G). The knitting structure is a half structure of the front 1-0 / 2-3 and the back 1-2 / 1-0, and the course on the knitting density machine is 65 courses / 吋 and the polyester filament yarn mixing ratio is 84 mass. %, And the polyurethane elastic yarn blending ratio was 16% by mass. Stained with a temperature 120 ° C. in dark blue, finishing width 150 cm, wales 64 / inch, course 132 / inch, was finished basis weight 180 g / m 2. Stretch properties of the resultant knitted fabric are as shown in Table 1, The resulting knitted fabric had sufficient stretch properties, but because of the high Young's modulus of the polyester filament yarn, it has a firm feel and follows a comfortable wearing feeling and body movement without a sense of incongruity. The fit was inferior.

本発明のトリコットストレッチ編地は、薄くて軽く、快適な着用感と身体の動きに違和感なく追随するボディフィット性に優れると共に、発色性と染色堅牢度にも優れることから、スポーツ衣料や下着、特に各種スポーツウエアでのインナーに好適なるものであり、各種衣服の下に着るインナー用の素材、特にスポーツウエアでのインナー用素材として極めて有用なるものである。   The tricot stretch knitted fabric of the present invention is thin and light, with a comfortable wearing feeling and excellent body fit that follows the movement of the body without any discomfort, as well as excellent color development and dyeing fastness, sports clothing and underwear, In particular, it is suitable for an inner in various sportswear, and is extremely useful as an inner material worn under various clothes, particularly an inner material in sportswear.

Claims (2)

ヤング率が85CN/dtex以下、単糸繊度が1dtex以下であり、5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸及びアジピン酸の共重合ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなるカチオン染料により染色温度が105℃以下で染色可能なカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸と、弾性糸とからなり、下記条件1〜4を満足するトリコットストレッチ編地。
1.編地の伸長率がタテ方向200%以上、ヨコ方向100%以上
2.編地の伸長回復率がタテ方向、ヨコ方向それぞれ80%以上
3.編地のタテ方向50%伸長時の伸長力が51CN/2.5cm以上60CN/2.5cm以下、ヨコ方向50%伸長時の伸長力が64CN/2.5cm以上100CN/2.5cm以下
4.編地の仕上げ目付が150〜250g/m
Young's modulus of 85CN / dtex less, single yarn fineness of Ri der less 1 dtex, dyeable cationic dye pets in dyeing temperature of 105 ° C. or less by a cationic dye comprising a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and adipic acid A tricot stretch knitted fabric consisting of dyed polyester filament yarn and elastic yarn and satisfying the following conditions 1-4.
1. 1. Elongation rate of the knitted fabric is 200% or more in the vertical direction and 100% or more in the horizontal direction. 2. The stretch recovery rate of the knitted fabric is 80% or more in each of the vertical and horizontal directions. 3. Stretching force when stretched 50% in the warp direction is 51 CN / 2.5 cm or more and 60 CN / 2.5 cm or less, and stretching force when stretched 50% in the width direction is 64 CN / 2.5 cm or more and 100 CN / 2.5 cm or less. The finish basis weight of the knitted fabric is 150 to 250 g / m 2
カチオン染料可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸が、5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸0.5〜5.0モル%及びアジピン酸2.0〜13.0モル%の共重合ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなるポリエステルフィラメント糸である請求項1に記載のトリコットストレッチ編地。 The cationic dyeable dyeable polyester filament yarn is a polyester filament yarn made of copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.5 to 5.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 2.0 to 13.0 mol% of adipic acid. Item 3. A tricot stretch knitted fabric according to item 1.
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