JP5144287B2 - Elastic circular knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to an elastic circular knitted fabric excellent in stretchability and stretch recovery.

  Conventionally, circular knitted fabrics that are manufactured using a single circular knitting machine and contain elastic yarn are often used as inners that fit the body such as shorts, girdles, and bras, or undershirts that fit the body for sports. (See Patent Document 1). The inner using the circular knitted fabric has a good wearing feeling and can enhance the complementability of the body. Furthermore, as sportswear using the circular knitted fabric, various products are sold with the goal of improving physical functions by tightening action. As a knitted fabric by a single circular knitting machine used for these, a circular knitted fabric in which a tentacle structure is knitted by a yarn knitting (plating knitting) with a partner yarn such as polyester on a bare yarn of an elastic yarn called bare heaven Is mainly used. However, these bare heavens are excellent in stretchability, but the stretch recovery is not generally good, and the products using the bare heavens are so-called loosened because the stretched knitted fabric does not completely return to its original shape. It was a product that did not look good due to the Warai phenomenon. In sports products aimed at improving physical function, for example, when wearing long-sleeved products, there is a problem that the elbow part pops out due to bending and stretching of the arm, and clothes with poor exercise followability Is not integrated with the movement of muscles, resulting in a problem that the effect of improving the physical function is low, and the sporting goods are insufficient as clothes aimed at improving the physical function.

JP-A-3-19946

  Therefore, it has a good feeling of tightening (or a feeling of fit), and is extremely excellent in movement following ability, and can move in almost the same way as the movement of the body, thereby supporting the body muscles etc. and contributing to the improvement of the movement function. There is still a need to provide an elastic circular knitted fabric excellent in stretchability and stretch recovery, which can be used for manufacturing clothes that are less likely to lose shape when worn.

  As a result of intensive studies on a knitted fabric having a new structure and a wearing test in order to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that the above problems can be solved by the following means (1) and (2). The present invention has been completed.

  (1) In a single circular knitted fabric composed of inelastic yarns and elastic yarns, the blending ratio of elastic yarns is 28% by mass or more, and the hysteresis loss at 50% elongation in the weft direction is 20% or less. Characteristic elastic circular knitted fabric.

  (2) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to (1) above, wherein the number of loops is from 6000 to 12000, and the loop ratio is from 1.9 to 2.8.

  Since the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in stretchability and stretch recovery properties, for example, in an application such as an inner or sports clothing that fits the body, a feeling of wearing such as a tightening feeling (or feeling of fitting) is good. At the same time, it is extremely excellent in movement following ability and can move in almost the same way as the movement of the body, so it can support the muscles of the body and contribute to the improvement of the motor function. It can be used as a garment material that is less likely to lose its shape due to deformation and has an excellent feeling of wear and appearance.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
In the present invention, the elastic yarn means a yarn having rubber-like elasticity. As the elastic yarn, one or a combination of two or more types of elastic yarns such as polyurethane and polyether ester can be used. For example, polyurethane-based elastic yarns that are dry-spun or melt-spun can be used. There are no particular limitations on the type of raw material polymer for the elastic yarn and the spinning method. The elastic yarn may be a covering yarn, a mixed yarn, an entangled yarn, or the like, but it is preferable to use the elastic yarn as it is (using bare yarn) in order to keep the stretch recovery performance of the circular knitted fabric satisfactorily.

  The breaking elongation of the elastic yarn is preferably 400% or more and 1000% or less. When the elongation at break is less than 400%, the stretchability of the elastic circular knitted fabric tends to be low, and when it exceeds 1000%, the elastic circular knitted fabric is tightened when used for innerwear or sports clothes, for example. The feeling tends to be low. The elastic yarn is excellent in stretchability and preferably has heat resistance that does not substantially impair stretchability, for example, in the vicinity of 180 ° C., which is a normal processing temperature in a presetting process during dyeing.

  As the elastic yarn, a yarn imparted with antibacterial properties, hygroscopicity, water absorption and other functionalities can also be used.

  The thickness of the elastic yarn is preferably 10 dt (decitex, hereinafter using the same symbol) or more and 200 dt or less, and more preferably 30 dt or more and 160 dt or less, in that the elastic yarn can be easily knitted as an elastic yarn forming a knit loop.

  In the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention, there is no special limitation on the non-elastic yarn to be combined with the elastic yarn. For example, natural fibers such as polyester, nylon, polytrimethylene terephthalate, acrylic and other synthetic fibers, cotton, wool, hemp and the like Fibers and semi-synthetic fibers such as cupra and rayon can be used. In particular, when using synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon and polytrimethylene terephthalate, it becomes a knitted fabric with good dimensional stability, and when using cotton, cupra, rayon, etc., it becomes a knitted fabric with good water absorption and moisture absorption. .

  As the inelastic yarn, only one type of yarn composed of one type of fiber may be used, but a blended yarn, a blended yarn, a twisted yarn, or the like may be used, and a knit on a knitting machine, etc. Two or more kinds of yarns may be used.

  The yarn form of the inelastic yarn to be used is arbitrary, but the filament yarn (long fiber) form is preferable and the spun yarn (spun yarn) in that the stretch recovery property of the elastic circular knitted fabric can be further improved. When using, it is preferable that the length is as short as possible. Further, as the cross-sectional shape of the inelastic yarn, a triangular or W-shaped cross section can be used in addition to a round cross section.

  For example, the thickness of the inelastic yarn is preferably 20 dt or more and 120 dt or less, and more preferably 30 dt or more and 90 dt or less. When the elastic circular knitted fabric is required to be thin and lightweight, it is preferable to use a thin thread as much as possible. When it is desired to improve the strength, it is preferable to use a thread that is as thick as possible.

  The single circular knitted fabric according to the present invention is a circular knitted fabric knitted by only a cylinder and is knitted mainly by a single circular knitting machine, and a double circular knitted fabric knitted by a cylinder and a dial is included in the present invention. I can't. The gauge of the knitting machine can be arbitrarily selected, and is preferably 24 gauge or more and 40 gauge or less, and more preferably 28 gauge or more and 36 gauge or less.

  The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention is a single circular knitted fabric composed of an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn. Typically, the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn are knitted by a plating knitting. The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention is designed so that the mixing ratio of the elastic yarn is 28% by mass or more. In ordinary single circular knitted fabrics containing elastic yarns, the mixing rate of elastic yarns is generally less than 10%, and the elongation recovery performance of circular knitted fabrics was insufficient at this level of mixing rate. The elastic yarn knit ratio of the elastic circular knitted fabric according to the invention is extremely high. In the present invention, the elastic circular knitted fabric can be provided with excellent stretchability and stretch recovery by increasing the mixing ratio of the elastic yarn. For example, when a garment is manufactured using the elastic circular knitted fabric, a good feeling of tightening and movement Followability is obtained. When the mixing ratio of the elastic yarn is less than 28% by mass, the above-mentioned good tightening feeling cannot be obtained, and the motion following ability imparted to the garment is not sufficient. The mixing ratio of the elastic yarn is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 35% by mass or more. On the other hand, when the mixing ratio of the elastic yarn is 70% by mass or less, for example, when producing clothes using an elastic circular knitted fabric, the performance according to applications such as dimensional stability, water absorption, hygroscopicity, etc. is easy and good. It is possible to give to. The mixing ratio of the elastic yarn is more preferably 65% by mass or less, and further preferably 60% by mass or less.

  As means for setting the mixing ratio of the elastic yarn to 28% by mass or more, selection of the thickness of the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn and adjustment of the draft of the elastic yarn are important. For example, the draft of the elastic yarn during knitting is 2.0 or more and 4.5 or less, more preferably 2.0 or more and 4.0 or less, and particularly preferably 2.2 or more and 3.5 or less. It is preferable to select the thicknesses of the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn so that the mixing ratio is 28 mass% or more. The draft of the elastic yarn in the present invention, that is, the knitting length ratio of the elastic yarn to the non-elastic yarn is obtained by the following formula (1).

    Draft of elastic yarn = knitting length of inelastic yarn ÷ knitting length of elastic yarn (1)

  In the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention, the blending ratio of elastic yarn is 28% by mass or more, and the hysteresis loss at 50% elongation in the weft direction is 20% or less. The hysteresis loss is more preferably 15% or less. Reducing hysteresis loss contributes to the improvement of stretch recovery of the elastic circular knitted fabric. For example, when the elastic circular knitted fabric is used for clothes, it improves tightening feeling and motion following performance and suppresses deformation. Connected. That is, when the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention with a specific range of elastic yarn mixture ratio and hysteresis loss of the knitted fabric is used for clothes, for example, effects such as a feeling of tightening, motion following ability, difficulty in losing shape, etc. Can be achieved. In a normal elastic circular knitted fabric obtained by simply plating a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn, the hysteresis loss is generally 30% or more, and a garment using such a knitted fabric has low motion following ability. Therefore, it does not match the movement of the human body and the support effect of the body (particularly muscle) is low.

  The main means for obtaining the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention in which the blending ratio of the elastic yarn is 28% by mass or more and the hysteresis loss at the time of 50% elongation in the weft direction is 20% or less is inelasticity used. Designing the number of loops and loop ratio of the knitted fabric according to the yarn and the elastic yarn can be mentioned. In the present invention, it is preferable to design the knitted fabric so that the number of loops is 6000 or more and 12000 or less and the loop ratio is 1.9 or more and 2.8 or less. Moreover, it is preferable to finish in consideration of the balance between the course and the wale during the dyeing process. The number of loops is more preferably 8000 or more and 11000 or less, and the loop ratio is more preferably 2.2 or more and 2.7 or less. When the number of loops is less than 6000 and when the loop ratio is less than 1.9, the hysteresis loss tends to increase and the stretch recovery of the knitted fabric tends to be low. On the other hand, when the number of loops exceeds 12000 and when the loop ratio exceeds 2.8, the texture of the knitted fabric tends to become harder, and the hysteresis loss tends to increase and the stretch recovery of the knitted fabric tends to decrease. There is.

  In the present invention, the number of loops and the loop ratio were determined by measuring the number of courses and wales per 2.54 cm (1 inch) by leaving the knitted fabric on a desk for 24 hours in an environment of 20 ° C. and 65% RH. Therefore, it is calculated | required by following formula (2) and (3).

Number of loops = number of courses x number of wales (2)
Loop ratio = number of courses / number of wales (3)

  In addition, “hysteresis loss at 50% elongation in the weft direction” defined in the present invention means that the tensile stress in the weft direction of an elastic circular knitted fabric is measured by measuring the forward stress and the backward stress up to an elongation rate of 80%. It is a value obtained by the following formula (4) from the measured values of the forward stress and the backward stress at a rate of 50%.

    Hysteresis loss (%) = ((Outward stress at 50% elongation) − (Return stress at 50% elongation)) ÷ (Outward stress at 50% elongation) × 100 (4)

  As the dyeing method of the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention, a normal dyeing finishing process can be adopted. The dyeing conditions can be arbitrarily selected according to the non-elastic yarn that is the counterpart material of the elastic yarn to be used, and the dyeing machine to be used can be arbitrarily selected such as a liquid dyeing machine or a wins dyeing machine. As an example of the dyeing and finishing process, the raw machine is preset as it is and then put into the dyeing machine, and after scouring and dyeing, the finishing set is performed, or the raw machine is wet-relaxed and pre-set and dyed. Any dyeing finishing process, such as a method of performing and final setting, can be employed. Further, in the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention, it is particularly preferable to adjust the balance between the course and the wale of the knitted fabric. It is preferable to set the target density to approximately the target density. Thereafter, dyeing is performed, and by setting the finishing set to be a tension set that is about the wrinkle removal, the elastic circular knitted fabric targeted by the present invention can be obtained satisfactorily, the dimensional change of the elastic circular knitted fabric, etc. The problem can be avoided.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by way of examples. Of course, the present invention is not limited to this.

  In addition, evaluation in an Example was performed with the following measuring methods.

(I) Hysteresis loss of the knitted fabric Using a tensile tester, the knitted fabric gripped at a gripping interval of 2.5 cm width and 10 cm is stretched at a pulling speed of 300 mm / min, and the outward stress and the backward stress up to an elongation rate of 80%. Was measured, and the outward stress at an elongation rate of 50% and the return stress at an elongation rate of 50% were measured, and the hysteresis loss at 50% elongation in the weft direction was determined by the following equation (4).

    Hysteresis loss (%) = ((Outward stress at 50% elongation) − (Return stress at 50% elongation)) ÷ (Outward stress at 50% elongation) × 100 (4)

(Ii) Wearable shape loss Sewing a tennis shirt that fits the body using the elastic circular knitted fabric produced in the example, undressing after playing tennis for 2 hours, especially the knitted fabric of the elbow (deformation) In addition, the shirts in which the knitted fabric of the elbow part was deformed were visually judged according to the following criteria, taking into account whether or not the deformation disappeared by hand-shaking after undressing. It is 3 or more by the following reference | standard that there is no problem in practical use.

5: No loss of shape at all 4: Loss of shape at the elbow, but I don't care 3: The elbow is deformed, but the deformation disappears when it crawls 2: The deformation of the elbow is large If it doesn't hesitate, it won't return. 1: Deformation of the elbow is severe.

[Example 1]
Using a 28-gauge single circular knitting machine, nylon 44dt / 34f (filament: hereinafter using the same symbol) as inelastic yarn and spandex 78dt (made by Asahi Kasei Fibers, trade name Leuka) as elastic yarn Knitted with a yarn draft 2.8.

  The knitted fabric obtained under these knitting conditions is scoured at 90 ° C. using a continuous scouring machine, and then preset at 190 ° C. for 45 seconds, and after the pre-setting, 30 at 100 ° C. with a liquid dyeing machine. Staining was performed for minutes. After this, before finishing the set, Nikka Silicon AMZ-3 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) is immersed in a 0.5% aqueous solution, squeezed with a mangle so that the squeezing rate becomes 80%, and then at 170 ° C. for 45 seconds with a pin tenter. A finishing set was performed, and an elastic circular knitted fabric was manufactured at a density of 160 courses / inch × 62 wales / inch.

  About the obtained elastic circular knitted fabric, the hysteresis loss at the time of 50% elongation of the knitted fabric was measured. In addition, a tennis shirt was sewn with the obtained elastic circular knitted fabric, and a wearing test was performed to evaluate the wearability of the wearing mold. Table 1 shows the hysteresis loss at 50% elongation and the results of the wearing test.

[Examples 2-9, Comparative Examples 1-2]
The elastic yarn is the same as in Example 1, except that the thickness of the non-elastic yarn and elastic yarn, the draft of the elastic yarn at the time of knitting, and the amount of finish (that is, the number of loops and the loop ratio) are changed as shown in Table 1. An elastic circular knitted fabric with a mixed ratio, a product of the course and the wales, a ratio of the course and the wales, and a tennis shirt using the same were manufactured and evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 1 shows the hysteresis loss at 50% elongation and the results of the wearing test.

[Example 10]
Using a 32-gauge single circular knitting machine, a cationic dyeable polyester 33dt / 24f as an inelastic yarn and spandex 78dt (trade name: Leuka, made by Asahi Kasei Fibers) as an elastic yarn, an elastic yarn draft 3. I organized at 0.

  The knitted fabric obtained under these knitting conditions is scoured at 90 ° C. using a continuous scouring machine, and then preset at 190 ° C. for 45 seconds, and after the pre-setting, 30 at 100 ° C. with a liquid dyeing machine. Staining was performed for minutes. After this, before finishing the set, Nikka Silicon AMZ-3 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) is immersed in a 0.5% aqueous solution, squeezed with a mangle so that the squeezing rate becomes 80%, and then at 170 ° C. for 45 seconds with a pin tenter. An elastic circular knitted fabric was manufactured with a finishing set and a density of 165 courses / inch × 64 wales / inch.

  About the obtained elastic circular knitted fabric, the hysteresis loss at the time of 50% elongation of the knitted fabric was measured. In addition, a tennis shirt was sewn with the obtained elastic circular knitted fabric, and a wearing test was performed to evaluate the wearability of the wearing mold. Table 1 shows the hysteresis loss at 50% elongation and the results of the wearing test.

  By using the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention, for example, in an inner wear that fits the body or sports clothes, the wearing feeling is good, the exercise following ability is excellent, and it contributes to the improvement of the exercise function. In addition, it is possible to produce a garment that is less likely to lose its shape due to wearing, and that is excellent in wearing feeling and appearance.

Claims (1)

In the single circular knitted fabric composed of a non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn, mixing ratio of the elastic yarn is not less 28% by mass or more, hysteresis loss at 50% elongation in the weft direction Ri der than 20%, the number of loops and 6000 or 12000 or less, and the loop ratio is characterized der Rukoto 1.9 2.8, the elastic circular knitted fabric.