JP5219666B2 - Woven knitted fabric using a polyester crimped yarn, a method for producing the same, and a composite yarn of the crimped yarn - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention is excellent in glossiness and draping properties, and imparts a feeling of swelling, elasticity and resilience to a fabric of acetate multifilament yarn, a polyester crimped yarn and a method for producing the same, and the crimped yarn and acetate multifilament yarn. The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric using a composite yarn.

  Conventionally, cellulose-based fibers, particularly acetate-based fibers, are widely provided in the market as high-quality women's clothing because they have a unique dry touch feeling, excellent color developability, glossiness, and excellent drape. However, while it is excellent in drapeability, there is a concern about lack of elasticity, resilience, and insufficient yarn strength. For this reason, the twisting and resilience of the yarn can be improved along with the addition of polyester, nylon and other fibers. Proposals have been made to increase the strength.

As a proposal to give the fabric a sense of resilience and rebound, false twisting and torque are used by false twisting polyester, nylon, etc., or yarns with high shrinkage properties are used, or in recent years composite yarns are combined. There are things to do. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 59-26538 (Patent Document 1) and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 59-30927 (Patent Document 2) provide a torque obtained by simultaneously aligning and false twisting polyester fibers having different elongations at a low false twist number. The crimps give the fabric a feeling of unevenness and graininess. However, the use of cellulosic fibers in the proposed high-tensile yarns means that the cellulosic fibers are not suitable for thread cracking due to differences in heat shrinkage properties, fluffing of cellulosic fibers, fluffing, and composite yarns. The characteristics are impaired and the quality of the fabric is significantly reduced. Further, the proposal of Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-41424 (Patent Document 3) is intended to obtain a high torque yarn by simultaneously false twisting and splitting two polyester fibers with a low false twist number. Spinning work is skillful and complicated. Furthermore, even if a high torque is given to the false twisted yarn by this proposal, the feeling of rebound is insufficient with a fabric made of a composite yarn with cellulosic fibers. The fabrics using other high shrinkage yarns and composite yarns with conjugate yarns tend to have a hard texture, such as glossiness and draping properties of cellulosic fibers, especially acetate fibers, and sufficient resilience and resilience. A satisfactory fabric has not been obtained.
JP 59-26538 JP 59-30927 A JP-A-2-41424

  The present invention provides a polyester crimped yarn capable of imparting an appropriate swell, elasticity, and repulsion while having excellent drape of a cellulose-based multifilament yarn as a composite yarn, a method for producing the same, and its We provide woven and knitted fabrics.

In the first basic configuration of the present invention, the single fiber fineness (D) is 1.5 dtex ≦ D ≦ 12 dtex, the Young's modulus (Y) is 7000 N / mm ² ≦ Y ≦ 12000 N / mm ² , and the Snar index is 45 or more. Fabric bulk height after boiling water treatment at a compressive stress of 125 g / cm ² is 0.8 cm ³ / g
The polyester crimped yarn is characterized by having a bulky compression elastic modulus of 80% or more and 95.1% or less .

In addition, the second basic configuration of the present invention is that when a false untwisting process is performed on a polyester unstretched yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 30 × 10 ⁻³ ≦ Δn ≦ 80 × 10 ⁻³ , After performing false twisting with a twist tension (T) of 0.15 g / dtex ≦ T ≦ 0.34 g / dtex and a twisting coefficient (K1) of 7000 ≦ K1 ≦ 20000, the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the polymer continues. A method for producing a polyester crimped yarn, which is wound after being subjected to a tension treatment at a temperature lower than the temperature and a yarn running tension (T ′) of 0.1 g / dtex ≦ T ′ ≦ 1.0 g / dtex. .

  Furthermore, a third basic configuration of the present invention is a composite yarn of the polyester crimped yarn and the cellulose-based multifilament yarn, wherein the mixing ratio of the polyester crimped yarn is 10% by weight or more and less than 50% by weight. The cellulosic multifilament yarn is preferably an acetate multifilament yarn.

  The polyester crimped yarn having specific single fiber fineness, Young's modulus, and torque characteristics of the present invention has a dry touch feeling unique to cellulosic fibers, excellent color development, glossiness, and draping properties. A woven or knitted fabric having a rebound is obtained.

  The polyester crimped yarn of the present invention has an excellent fabric bulk height and a bulky compressive elastic modulus, and gives the fabric a sense of resilience and resilience. In order to obtain the bulk height and the elastic modulus, the single fiber fineness of the polyester crimped yarn needs to be 1.5 dtex or more and 12 dtex or less, and more preferably 2 dtex or more and 10 dtex or less. When the single fiber fineness is less than 1.5 dtex, a high bulk height cannot be obtained from buckling due to compressive stress. Bulkiness and elastic modulus can be obtained with a single fiber fineness exceeding 12 dtex, but the rigidity of the single fiber fineness and the thread tightening by twisting when making a composite yarn overlap, and the resulting fabric is stiff and insufficient for clothing. It becomes.

Further, the Young's modulus of the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention needs to be 7000 N / mm ² or more and 12000 N / mm ² or less. If it is less than 7000 N / mm ² , buckling due to compressive stress is likely to occur, and if it exceeds 12000 N / mm ² , it becomes rigid. This Young's modulus is obtained by the above single fiber fineness and the following proper false twist number.

  Further, in order to obtain a yarn torque necessary for expressing a suitable swelling feeling in a fabric obtained by combining with a cellulose-based multifilament yarn, the snare index of the polyester crimped yarn needs to be 45 or more. It is preferable that it is 50 or more. When the Snar index is less than 45, the torque expression force of the polyester crimped yarn is suppressed by the subsequent twisting, and the fabric having the feeling of swelling and resilience of the present invention cannot be obtained. In addition, an excessive snare index causes troublesome handling and causes problems in process passability such as frequent thread breaks in the subsequent process. Usually, when the Snart index is 100 or less, the above-mentioned problems do not occur, and the composite yarn fabric having the swell feeling and the rebound feeling of the present invention can be obtained.

  The bulkiness and resilience of the polyester crimped yarn are important for obtaining a composite yarn fabric having an excellent feeling of swelling and resilience. Bulkiness is generally determined by the JIS method “L1090 of 5.9”. The present inventors obtained a bulky, bulky compression modulus obtained by measuring a polyester knitted yarn tubular knitted fabric according to the JIS method. Was used as an index of the feeling of swelling and resilience of the composite yarn fabric.

That is, the bulk height when a compressive stress of 125 g / cm ² is applied to a fabric knitted by a commonly used “24G (8 吋)” cylindrical knitting machine and treated with boiling water is 0.8 cm ³ / g. The above is preferable. When the bulk height is less than 0.8 cm ³ / g, it is not possible to express the swell feeling and the harsh feeling that are the object of the present invention in the composite fabric. Moreover, the compression elastic modulus at this time needs to be 80% or more, and the desired resilience cannot be obtained with a fabric in which less than 80% polyester crimped yarn is combined.

Next, the manufacturing method of the polyester crimped yarn of this invention is demonstrated. When drawing a false untwisted yarn to a polyester undrawn yarn having a birefringence of 30 × 10 ⁻³ ≦ Δn ≦ 80 × 10 ⁻³ , the false twist twist (T) is 0.15 g / dtex ≦ T ≦ 0. 0.5 g / dtex is preferred. When the twisting tension is less than 0.15 g / dtex, ballooning tends to occur in the twisted region, which is not preferable because it causes crimped spots and thread breakage. Further, twisting tension exceeding 0.5 g / dtex is not preferable because fluffing or yarn breakage is likely to occur.

  Normally, in the false twisting process, a fine crimp is imparted by increasing the false twist number, and therefore, a false twist number with a twist coefficient (K1) of around 30000 is generally used. However, when the number of false twists is high, when the yarn is relaxed after passing through the false twister, each single fiber develops crimp and a highly bulky crimped yarn is obtained. Since the torque (snarl index) and initial tensile resistance of the strip are dispersed in each single fiber, the Young's modulus and the snal number of the present invention cannot be obtained. As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that the twist coefficient (K1) is preferably 7000 ≦ K1 ≦ 20000, and more preferably 8000 ≦ K1 ≦ 15000. When the twisting coefficient (K1) exceeds 20000, the expression of crimp of each single fiber increases, the Snarn index and Young's modulus decrease, and the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention cannot be obtained. When the twist coefficient (K1) is less than 7000, a fabric having a feeling of swelling with poor crimp cannot be obtained, and it is very difficult to wind up a multifilament yarn with poor crimp, which is industrially difficult.

  The polyester crimped yarn that has been subjected to false twisting is subsequently wound on cheese after being subjected to tension treatment. The tension treatment temperature at this time is preferably less than the glass transition point (Tg), and more preferably at room temperature lower by about 30 ° C. than Tg. When the temperature exceeds Tg, the yarn torque is reduced and eliminated.

  The yarn traveling tension (T ′) is preferably 0.1 g / dtex ≦ T ′ ≦ 1.0 g / dtex. This tension treatment suppresses the occurrence of crimping of each single fiber, and causes stress strain in the residual elongation of the yarn. This stress strain is manifested by heat treatment in a subsequent process, and a higher torque is expressed. Under low tension where T ′ is less than 0.1 g / dtex, crimping occurs and torque as a yarn decreases. Therefore, a tension of 0.1 g / dtex or more as yarn running tension without occurrence of crimping. is necessary. On the other hand, if it exceeds 1.0 g / dtex, the yarn is excessively stretched, and single yarn breakage, damage to the nip roller, and defective yarn due to slip of the nip roller occur, so that the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention cannot be obtained.

The treatment temperature in the false twisting region is useful for obtaining a high yarn torque, but an excessive temperature causes the yarn to be fused to reduce the torque. Moreover, the necessary crimp and torque force cannot be obtained at an excessively low temperature. Therefore, the processing temperature must be Tg or more and the melting point or less of the polyester fiber to be supplied, and more preferably 150 ° C. or more and 230 ° C. or less.
The false twisting method includes a pin method, a friction method, a belt nip method, etc., and any method can be used as long as a polyester crimped yarn satisfying the requirements of the present invention is obtained. In order to obtain a false twisted crimped yarn, a pin method is preferred.

The polyester unstretched yarn to be supplied is preferably a polyester unstretched yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and 30 × 10 ⁻³ ≦ Δn ≦ 80 × 10 ⁻³ . When Δn of the polyester undrawn yarn is less than 30 × 10 ⁻³ , fluff is likely to occur in the crimped yarn. When Δn exceeds 80 × 10 ⁻³ , yarn breakage is likely to occur when spinning an undrawn yarn.

  Further, it may be a polyester fiber formed by composite spinning such as addition of an inorganic substance such as titanium oxide, a copolymer, dispersion or cationic dyeability, a modified cross-sectional shape of Δ and ☆, side-by-side, and a core sheath.

  Next, regarding a woven or knitted fabric composed of a composite yarn of a cellulose-based multifilament yarn containing 10% by weight or more and less than 50% by weight of the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention, the more the polyester crimped yarn is mixed, the more the fabric. Although the resilience and resilience increase, it is preferably less than 50% by weight so as not to impair the dry touch feeling, excellent color developability, glossiness and excellent drape of the cellulose multifilament yarn. If the amount is less than 10% by weight, the rebound required by the present invention cannot be obtained. The total fineness of the composite yarn may be the fineness provided for a normal woven or knitted fabric, but is preferably 80 dtex or more and less than 200 dtex in order to obtain a thin woven or knitted fabric that has been increasingly demanded in recent years.

  The composite with cellulose multifilament yarn does not impair the rebound of the fabric due to the torque-generating force of the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention even with only ordinary air blending, but the twist and rebound of the woven or knitted fabric by twisting. A feeling improves. The number of twisted twists at this time can be appropriately set according to the use of the fabric as long as the repulsive force of the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention is not impaired, but the twist coefficient is preferably 2000 or more and 20000 or less. When the twisting coefficient is less than 2000, the occurrence of yarn cracking due to the difference in torque development force between the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention and the cellulose multifilament yarn, and a uniform twisting effect cannot be obtained. When the twisting coefficient exceeds 20000, the torque expression force of the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention is inhibited due to the strong twisting effect, and the fabric of the present invention cannot be obtained. In addition, the twisting direction of the twisting is preferably opposite to the false twisting direction in order to make the torque developing direction by false twisting and the torque developing direction by twisting the same.

  Cellulosic multifilament yarn provided for the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a dry feeling, glossiness, and drape that are not found in other thermoplastic fibers, and includes regenerated fibers and semi-synthetic fibers. It is preferably an acetate multifilament yarn obtained by a technique such as a melt spinning method, and in particular, a triacetate multifilament yarn excellent in color developability is used as a composite feed yarn to compensate for a decrease in glossiness due to twisted yarn, It can be offered to the market as luxury women's clothing.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples.
[Young's modulus]
Tensilon "UCT-1T type" manufactured by Orientec, test length 20cm, load cell 5N
Measurement was performed under the condition of a tensile speed of 10 cm / min, and the calculated Young's modulus was used.
[Snarl index]
Measured according to JIS standard “L-1095 7.17A method”.
[Fabric bulk height] and [bulky compression modulus]
Made by Koike Machinery Co., Ltd. Cylinder knitted fabric is created with a cylinder knitting machine "CR-B type (24G, caliber 3.5mm)". The sample was centrifuged for 30 minutes after boiling water treatment and allowed to stand for 12 hours or more in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. × 60% RH.
The measurement method was based on JIS standard “L-1090 5.9B method”. That is, a cylindrical knitted fabric of a sample is put in the length direction of a U-shaped mold (inner dimensions: width 1 cm, length 4 cm, height 4 cm). Next, an initial load (50 gf) on the bottom surface of “1 cm × 4 cm” is applied, the height at this time is set to “t0 (mm)”, and then the load (500 gf) is applied, and the height after 1 minute has passed is “t1 ( mm) ”, and immediately after removing the weight and leaving it to stand for 1 minute, the height when the initial load (50 gf) is applied again is defined as“ t0 ′ (mm) ”. The weight of the part of the knitted fabric (length 4 cm) used for the measurement is “w (g)” and is calculated by the following formula.
Fabric bulk height (cm ³ / g): (4 × t0) / (w × 10)
Bulky compression elastic modulus (%): ((t0′−t1) / (t0−t1)) × 100
[Twisting coefficient]
The following formula: K = number of false twists × √D, where D = crimped yarn fineness (denier)
[Texture judgment]
Five judgment members divide the fabric's "rebound feeling", "harshness", and "swelling feeling" into three grades, and the results are judged by ○, Δ, and ×.
Judgment ○ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ Excellent Judgment △ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ Slightly better Judgment × ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ Same as conventional

Example 1
A 47 dtex / 8 filament polyester unstretched yarn having an Δn of 52 × 10 ⁻³ and containing 0.5% by mass of titanium oxide is stretched by an “IVF-338 type” false twisting machine manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho, and 32 dtex / An 8-filament polyester crimped yarn was obtained. The false twisting conditions at this time are a yarn speed of 150 m / min, a false twist number of 1500 t / m (Z twist), a false twist twist temperature of 215 ° C., a twist tension of 11 g, and a tension treatment temperature of room temperature (23 ° C.). The running tension was 20 g. The obtained polyester crimped yarn was knitted with a cylindrical knitting machine, and after treatment with boiling water and drying, the bulkiness of the fabric and the bulky compression modulus were measured. These results are shown in “Table 1”.

  The polyester crimped yarn and the triacetate multifilament yarn 61 dtex / 15 filament are aligned and twisted at 1800 t / m (S twist), and then a satin woven fabric using the composite yarn as a weft is prepared and dyed by means of a regular method. The texture of the processed fabric was judged. The results are shown in “Table 2”.

(Example 2)
A fabric was prepared using the same means as in Example 1 except that the number of false twists was 3200 t / m (Z twist), and the texture of the fabric was determined. The false twisting conditions and physical properties at this time are shown in “Table 1”, and the texture judgment results are shown in “Table 2”.

(Example 3)
Δn is 50 × 10 ⁻³ , except that a 56 dtex / 12 filament polyester unstretched yarn containing 0.5% by mass of titanium oxide is used to create a woven fabric using the same means as in “Example 1”. The texture of the fabric was determined. The false twisting conditions and physical properties at this time are shown in “Table 1”, and the texture evaluation judgment is shown in “Table 2”.

(Comparative Example 1)
A 50 dtex / 24 filament polyester unstretched yarn having an Δn of 55 × 10 ⁻³ and containing 0.5% by mass of titanium oxide is stretched by an “IVF-338 type” false twisting machine manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho, and 34 dtex / A 24 filament polyester crimped yarn was obtained. The false twisting conditions at this time are a yarn speed of 150 m / min, a false twist number of 1500 t / m (Z twist), a false twist twist temperature of 215 ° C., a twist tension of 9 g, and a tension treatment temperature of room temperature (23 ° C.). The running tension was 20 g. The obtained polyester crimped yarn was knitted with a cylindrical knitting machine, and after treatment with boiling water and drying, the bulkiness of the fabric and the bulky compression modulus were measured. These results are shown in “Table 1”.

  The above polyester crimped yarn and triacetate multifilament yarn 61 dtex / 15 filament are aligned and twisted at 1800 t / m (S twist), and then a satin woven fabric using this composite yarn as a weft is prepared and dyed by means of a regular method. The texture of the processed fabric was judged. The results are shown in “Table 2”.

(Comparative Example 2)
Polyester drawn yarn of 33 dtex / 24 filament containing 0.5% by mass of titanium oxide was drawn using an “IVF-338 type” false twisting machine manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho to obtain a polyester crimped yarn of 35 dtex / 24 filament. . The false twisting conditions at this time are a yarn speed of 150 m / min, a false twist number of 3427 t / m (Z twist), a false twist twist temperature of 225 ° C., a twist tension of 5 g, and a tension treatment temperature of room temperature (23 ° C.). The running tension was 20 g. The obtained polyester crimped yarn was knitted with a cylindrical knitting machine, and after treatment with boiling water and drying, the bulkiness of the fabric and the bulky compression modulus were measured. These results are shown in “Table 1”.

  The above polyester crimped yarn and triacetate multifilament yarn 61 dtex / 15 filament are aligned and twisted at 1800 t / m (S twist), and then a satin woven fabric using this composite yarn as a weft is prepared and dyed by means of a regular method. The texture of the processed fabric was judged. The results are shown in “Table 2”.

Claims (4)

Boiling water treatment when the single fiber fineness (D) is 1.5 dtex ≦ D ≦ 12 dtex, Young's modulus (Y) is 7000 N / mm ² ≦ Y ≦ 12000 N / mm ² , Snart index is 45 or more, and compressive stress is 125 g / cm ^2. A polyester crimped yarn having a subsequent fabric bulk height of 0.8 cm ³ / g or more and a bulky compressive modulus of 80% or more and 95.1% or less . When the undrawn polyester yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 30 × 10 ⁻³ ≦ Δn ≦ 80 × 10 ⁻³ is subjected to drawing false twisting, the false twisting tension (T) is 0.15 g / dtex ≦ T. ≦ 0.34 g / dtex, twisting coefficient (K1) is 7000 ≦ K1 ≦ 20000, and then the temperature is lower than the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the polymer and the yarn running tension (T ′) 2. The method for producing a polyester crimped yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polyester crimped yarn is wound after tension treatment at 0.1 g / dtex ≦ T ′ ≦ 1.0 g / dtex.   A composite yarn comprising the polyester crimped yarn according to claim 1 and a cellulosic multifilament yarn, wherein a blend rate of the polyester crimped yarn is 10% by weight or more and less than 50% by weight. Woven knitting.   A woven or knitted fabric, wherein the cellulosic multifilament yarn according to claim 3 is an acetate multifilament yarn.