JP2016089282A - Acetate composite yarn and woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide composite yarn and a woven or knitted fabric which have dyeability, puffy feeling, resilient feeling, slime feeling and soft feeling each inherent in polyester filaments, while maintaining a superior color development, dry feeling, feeling of firmness and stiffness, and drape property each inherent in acetate filaments.SOLUTION: A composite yarn comprises: polyester filaments obtained without subjecting partially oriented yarns to heat treatment; and acetate filaments, where a weight ratio of the polyester filaments to the acetate filaments is 20:80 to 80:20. The composite yarn is subjected to heat setting and has physical properties after heat setting which satisfy the following requirements (i) to (iii): (i) boiling water shrinkage is 0 to 8%; (ii) thermal stress in the temperature range of 70 to 100°C is 0.001 to 0.030 cN/dtex; and (iii) yarn length difference between the polyester filaments and the acetate filaments is within ±6% or less.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 5

Description

  The present invention relates to a composite yarn comprising a specific polyester filament and an acetate filament. The present invention also includes woven and knitted fabrics suitable for general clothing such as dresses, jackets and pants composed of the composite yarn, and spring / summer products that require dry touch, as well as swelling, elasticity, slime, The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric suitable for autumn / winter products requiring softness.

  Many attempts have been made to impart a feeling of swelling to cellulosic semisynthetic fibers, particularly acetate filaments. For example, different shrinkage mixed yarns with high-shrinkage polyester (see Patent Document 1) and blends with wooly polyester. Commonly used are fiber yarns and twisted yarns (see Patent Document 2).

  However, when the different shrinkage mixed yarn is made into a strongly twisted yarn, the bulge disappears, and the woolly mixed yarn has the disadvantage that it becomes soft. In view of such a situation, the present inventors have intensively investigated a cellulose-based composite yarn that is soft and bulges, has a feeling of elasticity, has a slime, and is rich in draping properties. After relaxing heat treatment of the semi-drawn yarn to reduce its thermal shrinkage to a value close to that of the cellulose filament, a composite yarn was proposed to solve the drawbacks of the prior art (see Patent Document 3). ).

  However, even in the method of Patent Document 3, the polyester filaments are deeply dyed in disperse dyeing, and it is difficult to obtain the same color as acetate filaments in particular, and the shrinkage spots inherent in the semi-drawn yarn are manifested by relaxation heat treatment. It was found that the composite yarn with the filament had a spanned appearance and deteriorated the quality of the woven or knitted fabric. Accordingly, these methods are also required for the method of Patent Document 3.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-72741 JP 2010-24598 A Japanese Patent Application No. 2012-217582

  The present invention was devised in order to improve the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, and the object thereof is to make cellulosic semi-synthetic fibers, particularly acetate filaments, without impairing the swollen or soft texture of the polyester semi-drawn yarn. An object of the present invention is to provide a low-shrinkage acetate filament composite yarn and woven or knitted fabric which can improve the same color and form of the composite yarn, and can replace the conventional composite yarn subjected to relaxation heat treatment.

  As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the present inventor, as a result of a semi-stretched polyester filament and a cellulose semi-synthetic fiber, particularly a composite yarn composed of an acetate filament, a polyester semi-stretched yarn that has been heat-treated without being relaxed, Alternatively, a polyester semi-drawn yarn that has not been heat-treated is used as a composite yarn with acetate filaments, and then heat set is applied for the purpose of reducing shrinkage and light-dyeing the polyester filaments in the composite yarn, and further After constructing the woven or knitted fabric with the composite yarn, it was found that the above-mentioned object can be achieved by applying heat setting before dyeing if necessary, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention has the following configurations (1) to (4).
(1) A composite yarn comprising a polyester filament and an acetate filament obtained without subjecting a semi-drawn yarn to heat treatment, the weight ratio of which is 20:80 to 80:20, and the composite yarn is subjected to heat setting The composite yarn characterized in that the physical properties after heat setting satisfy the following (i) to (iii):
(I) Boiling water shrinkage is 0 to 8%;
(Ii) The maximum value of the thermal stress is 70 to 100 ° C., and the maximum thermal stress is 0.001 to 0.030 cN / dtex;
(Iii) The yarn length difference between the polyester filament and the acetate filament is within ± 6%.
(2) A composite yarn comprising polyester filaments and acetate filaments obtained by subjecting a semi-drawn yarn to heat treatment without relaxing, and a weight ratio of 20:80 to 80:20, wherein the composite yarn is heat set A composite yarn characterized in that the physical properties after heat setting satisfy the following (i) to (iii):
(I) Boiling water shrinkage is 0 to 8%;
(Ii) The maximum value of the thermal stress is 70 to 100 ° C., and the maximum thermal stress is 0.001 to 0.030 cN / dtex;
(Iii) The yarn length difference between the polyester filament and the acetate filament is within ± 6%.
(3) A woven or knitted fabric characterized in that the blend ratio of the composite yarn according to (1) or (2) is 50% or more.
(4) The woven or knitted fabric according to (3), wherein heat setting is further performed in a state of the woven or knitted fabric before dyeing.

  According to the present invention, a composite yarn of an acetate filament and a polyester filament, which is significantly improved in the same color as the yarn spot as compared with the prior art, can be obtained. High quality and high quality acetate knitted fabric can be provided.

It is an example of a fiber mixing apparatus with the polyester filament which is not heat-processed used in this invention. It is an example of a fiber mixing apparatus with the polyester filament heat-processed without being used in this invention. It is an example of a twist apparatus with the polyester filament which is not heat-processed used in this invention. It is the example of a synthesizing | yarning apparatus which provided the supply difference with the polyester filament which is not heat-processed used in this invention. The enlarged photograph of the composite yarn of the knitted fabric of Example 1 is shown. The composite yarn has almost no crimping property and is uniform and shows a good color. The enlarged photograph of the composite yarn of the knitted fabric of the comparative example 1 is shown. Since the composite yarn contains both crimped and non-crimped parts, it shows a span tone and shows a strong tone.

  The composite yarn of the present invention includes a polyester filament and an acetate filament, and the polyester filament is used as a semi-stretched yarn without being subjected to heat treatment, or a semi-stretched yarn subjected to a heat treatment without being relaxed. The heat shrinkage of the polyester filaments is reduced to a value approximate to that of acetate filaments by heat-setting these composite yarns. Further, the woven or knitted fabric using the composite yarn of the present invention is further subjected to heat setting before dyeing, if necessary. Thus, the composite yarn of the present invention makes it easy to obtain the same color as the acetate filament by lightly dyeing the polyester filament.

The semi-drawn yarn used in the polyester filament of the present invention is usually also referred to as a highly oriented undrawn yarn. For example, a polyester resin such as polyethylene terephthalate is used and spun at a take-up speed of 2,200 to 5,000 m / min. Raw yarn. The semi-drawn yarn generally has a birefringence (Δn) of 40 × 10 ⁻³ or more and less than 90 × 10 ⁻³ , an elongation at break of 90 to 200%, and a boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of 35 to 70%. The maximum thermal stress is around 0.080 to 0.130 cN / dtex. On the other hand, when it becomes a complete drawn yarn, the maximum birefringence (Δn) is 100 × 10 ⁻³ or more, the breaking elongation is 20 to 50%, and the maximum thermal stress at 105 to 120 ° C. is 1.5 to 1.8 cN / dtex. In addition, as a method of obtaining a semi-drawn yarn, for example, an undrawn yarn obtained at a take-up speed of about 500 m / min may be drawn in a process until it is made into a composite yarn with an acetate filament to obtain a semi-drawn yarn.

  The polyester semi-drawn yarn used in the present invention has a maximum thermal stress of 70 to 100 ° C., and its maximum thermal stress is preferably 0.080 to 0.130 cN / dtex, more preferably 0.090 to 0. 125 cN / dtex, more preferably 0.09 to 0.120 cN / dtex. When the maximum thermal stress is less than the above range, it approaches the undrawn yarn region and tends to be low in strength, changes with time are large, handling is difficult, and practicality is lost. If the maximum thermal stress exceeds the above range, it will approach the fully drawn yarn region, and it will be difficult to obtain a texture effect such as softness, elasticity and slime. The breaking elongation is preferably 90 to 170%, and more preferably 95 to 150%. If the elongation at break is less than the above range, it is difficult to obtain a soft texture because it is close to the fully drawn yarn region, and if it exceeds the above range, the strength becomes low and the practicality tends to be lost. The boiling water shrinkage is preferably 20 to 70%, more preferably 25 to 60%. If the boiling water shrinkage is less than the above range, it will be close to the fully drawn yarn region and it will be difficult to obtain a soft texture, and if it exceeds the above range, it will be difficult to handle and lack practicality.

  The cross-sectional shape of the polyester semi-drawn yarn is round, triangular, or Y-shaped, cross-shaped, X-shaped, wrinkled with an irregularity (diameter of circumscribed circle / diameter of inscribed circle) of 1.3 to 1.8. It may be a thread having a plurality of irregularities such as a mold and a flattened shape. Also, hollow fibers having a hollowness ratio (hollow part area / total area × 100) of 10 to 30% or flat fibers having a flatness (long side length / short side length) of 2.0 to 6.0 Good. Furthermore, 0.2 to 3.0% by weight of titanium oxide, kaolinite, pigments, etc. may be contained, normal pressure or high pressure cationic dyeable yarn or material, chemical recycling raw material or polyester derived from bioethanol. It may be. The single yarn fineness of the polyester filament half-drawn yarn before being combined is preferably 0.5 to 6.0 dtex, more preferably 1.0 to 5.0 dtex. If the single yarn fineness is less than the above range, it becomes soft but lacks elasticity, and if it exceeds the above range, hardness and tension tend to be emphasized. The total fineness of the polyester filament is not particularly limited, but is preferably 15 to 330 dtex, more preferably 20 to 200 dtex. If the fineness is less than the above range, the strength of the composite yarn is likely to decrease.If the fineness exceeds the above range, when heat-treating the semi-drawn yarn continuously, the heat effect does not easily reach the inside of the yarn, resulting in low shrinkage and low thermal stress. Prone to become difficult. The number of filaments is preferably 3 to 220. In the present invention, the texture effect due to the single yarn fineness, the cross-sectional shape and the inclusions is in addition to the feeling of swelling and sliminess of the semi-drawn yarn, and the texture effect that cannot be obtained by the conventional different shrinkage composite yarn technique is easy. Can get to.

  Examples of the acetate filament used in the present invention include triacetate filaments, diacetate filaments, and composite filaments obtained by making these materials into a cross-sectional shape such as a side-by-side type. The acetate filaments are not particularly limited. In the present invention, a triacetate filament is particularly preferably used. A low shrinkage yarn having a boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of 1.0 to 6.0% is preferable for this acetate filament. The official moisture content is preferably 2.0 to 8.0%. In the present invention, different types such as cupra and acetate filament can be used in combination, and can be appropriately combined for the purpose of obtaining hygroscopicity, texture, gloss, discoloration, charged voltage reduction and the like of the composite yarn.

  The single filament fineness of the acetate filament is preferably 0.8 to 6.0 dtex, more preferably 1.0 to 5.0 dtex. When the single yarn fineness is less than the above range, there are many fuzzing and yarn breakage in the weaving and knitting process, and when the single yarn fineness exceeds the above range, entanglement failure or hard feeling tends to occur during fiber mixing. The total fineness is not particularly limited, but is preferably 15 to 330 dtex, more preferably 30 to 300 dtex. If the total fineness is less than the above range, the strength of the composite yarn becomes weak, and if it exceeds the above range, it is difficult to obtain a fine textured knitted or knitted fabric. The number of filaments is preferably 1 to 150.

  In the present invention, these semi-drawn yarns are used without being heat-treated, or are used after being heat-treated without being relaxed to form composite yarns with acetate filaments. Thereafter, heat setting is performed, and the thermal shrinkage rate of the polyester filament is lowered to a value in a range close to the thermal shrinkage rate of the acetate filament. In order to heat the polyester semi-drawn yarn without relaxing it into an acetate filament and a composite yarn, the semi-drawn yarn is not relaxed (over-fed) in the non-contact type heater as in the apparatus of FIG. After supplying and heat-treating, it is obtained by a method of forming a mixed yarn with an acetate filament.

For example, the following method can be used to convert the polyester half-drawn yarn into an acetate filament and a composite yarn without heat treatment.
(1) These are aligned to make an air mixed yarn (see FIG. 1).
(2) Double twist and twist (see Fig. 3)
(3) A supply difference is provided to the yarn, and the core is wound into a light core-sheath structure (see FIG. 4), and then twisted.
(4) Use a covering machine or a tri twister machine to form a core-sheath composite yarn.

  The weight ratio of the polyester filament to the acetate filament in the composite yarn of the present invention is 20:80 to 80:20, preferably 30:70 to 70:30. If the mixing ratio of the acetate filaments is less than the above range, the characteristics of the acetate filaments are thin, and if it exceeds the above range, the swelling, slime, and soft effects of the polyester filaments are not preferable. The ratio is set in consideration of texture, gloss, dimensional change rate, and the like.

  The total fineness of the composite yarn of the present invention is preferably 30 to 660 dtex, more preferably 50 to 600 dtex. If the total fineness is less than the above range, the strength is reduced and the cost is high, and if it exceeds the above range, it tends to be unsuitable for finely woven fabrics. Two or three composite yarns may be twisted and used, and in that case, heat setting may be performed after twisting.

  When the composite yarn of the present invention is mixed and obtained, the degree of entanglement is preferably 20 to 80 pieces / m. If it exceeds 80 pieces / m, it is necessary to increase the pressure of the mixed fiber air nozzle, and both the polyester filament and the acetate filament are easily damaged, causing fluffing and a decrease in strength. Moreover, if it is less than 20 pieces / m, it will be in the form of an irregular entangled composite yarn, and it will be handled by a twisting process, and will be liable to cause fluffing and yarn breakage. Acetate filaments that are untwisted yarns are easier to open when used in mixed fibers, and are more desirable than twisted yarns and glued yarns. Further, when the polyester filament is aligned and twisted, or when the core-sheath yarn is formed by covering or the like, the acetate filament may be any of non-twisted, twisted, and glued yarn.

  Acetate filaments generally have low strength, and thus fluff is likely to occur during the manufacture of composite yarns, and the subsequent process passability is likely to deteriorate. In order to improve it, it is preferable to twist the composite yarn. In that case, the twist coefficient k is preferably 500 to 21,000. Here, k = twisted yarn number (tm) × √Dtex. If k is less than 500, the yarn converging effect is weak, and if it exceeds 21,000, the strength of the twisted product tends to be lowered.

  The composite yarn of the present invention may contain a third component in addition to the above-mentioned semi-drawn yarn polyester filament and acetate filament, and the mixing ratio of the third component at that time is preferably 50% at the maximum. As the third component, cupra, rayon, silk, cationic dyeable polyester, atmospheric pressure dispersible polyester, polyester false twisted yarn, polyamide (6,66), polyamide (6,66) false twisted yarn, polyurethane, Examples thereof include side-by-side type and eccentric type latent crimped yarn, polybutylene terephthalate yarn, polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn and the like, and are not particularly limited as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired.

  The composite yarn before twisting or heat setting preferably has a maximum thermal stress at 70 to 100 ° C. of 0.020 to 0.080 cN / dtex, more preferably 0.025 to 0.075 cN / dtex. If the maximum thermal stress is less than the above range, it is necessary to use a relaxation heat treated yarn, which is not preferable from the viewpoint of the quality and physical properties of the composite yarn, and if it exceeds the above range, it is necessary to use a polyester close to a fully drawn yarn, It is not preferable. The boiling water shrinkage of the composite yarn is preferably 15 to 50%, more preferably 20 to 45%. If the boiling water shrinkage is less than the above range, the polyester filament needs to be subjected to sufficient relaxation heat treatment, resulting in a composite yarn with unsatisfactory quality and physical properties. Above the above range, the mixing ratio of the polyester filament is superior and the feel of the acetate filament is excellent. It tends to be inferior.

The composite yarn of the present invention is subjected to heat setting, but it is necessary to perform so that the physical properties of the composite yarn after heat setting satisfy the following (i) to (iii).
(I) reducing the boiling water shrinkage to 0-8%;
(Ii) The maximum thermal stress at 70 to 100 ° C. is set to 0.001 to 0.030 cNdtex;
(Iii) The yarn length difference between the polyester filament and the acetate filament is set within ± 6%.
In this case, the heat setting is preferably performed at 65 to 130 ° C. for 15 to 120 minutes, more preferably 85 to 120 ° C. for 30 to 60 minutes. This composite yarn can be further made into a woven or knitted fabric that can easily obtain the same color as the acetate filament.

  By using the polyester semi-drawn yarn without heat treatment to form a composite yarn with acetate filaments and performing heat setting, it is possible to suppress heat shrinkage spots latent in the semi-drawn yarn without revealing. Moreover, by setting on the high temperature side (for example, 120 ° C.), the orientation and crystal structure of the semi-drawn yarn can be increased, and the polyester filament can be lightly dyed as compared with the relaxation heat treated yarn. That is, by applying heat setting, the yarn can be uniform and lightly dyed, and the composite yarn can be reduced in shrinkage without substantially impairing the swelling, softness, and slime feel of the semi-drawn yarn. Therefore, it is easy to obtain the same color as the acetate filament, and a composite yarn having a suitable combination is obtained.

  Further, when the polyester semi-drawn yarn is used after being heat-treated without relaxing (overfeed), the orientation of the polyester filament is increased by the action of the shrinkage force of the yarn, and it becomes easy to lightly dye. Further, in order to reduce the heat shrinkage force, the composite yarn with the acetate filament is made into a composite yarn, and then heat set to reduce the yarn length difference with the acetate filament in the composite yarn, so that a composite yarn having a suitable combination can be obtained. Relaxing (overfeed) heat-treated yarn is an effective method for reducing the heat shrinkage ratio of semi-drawn yarn to a value in the range close to that of acetate filament, but for that purpose, it was necessary to perform sufficient relaxation heat treatment. . As a result, good swelling, elasticity, and soft feeling were obtained, but dark dyeing increased and it was difficult to obtain the same color as acetate filaments. In addition, since the shrinkage spots latent in the semi-drawn yarn were revealed by the relaxation heat treatment, after forming the composite yarn, it appeared as a composite yarn spot, and only a span-like appearance was obtained. According to the present invention, such disadvantages are improved and a practical composite yarn can be obtained. The heat set may be a dry heat set, but a steam set is preferred in terms of the set effect.

The properties of the composite yarn after heat setting must satisfy the following properties (i) to (iii).
(I) The maximum thermal stress at 70 to 100 ° C. is 0.001 to 0.030 cN / dtex, preferably 0.002 to 0.020 cN / dtex. If the maximum thermal stress is less than the above range, the thermal stress is small, stress relaxation occurs, the woven or knitted fabric swells, and it becomes difficult to impart softness. In addition, when the above range is exceeded, the process shrinkage is large in the dyeing process of the woven or knitted fabric using the composite yarn, and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric is easily cured. Moreover, in a strong twisted-yarn product, it becomes difficult to obtain a high-quality woven or knitted fabric because of the difference in fabric width, grain difference and color difference due to the thermal stress difference between the inner and outer layers of cheese.
(Ii) The boiling water shrinkage is 0 to 8%, preferably 0.5 to 8%. When the boiling water shrinkage is less than the above range, the surface of the composite yarn is covered with a lot of polyester, and the texture of the acetate filament is impaired. Above the above range, the residual heat shrinkage of the polyester filament in the composite yarn Is high, and the texture becomes hard because it shrinks in the dyeing process of the woven or knitted fabric.
(Iii) The yarn length of the polyester filament and acetate filament of the composite yarn after heat setting is within ± 6%, preferably within ± 5%. If the yarn length difference is less than the above range, a lot of acetate filaments appear on the surface layer part of the composite yarn, making it difficult to obtain a slime texture. Above the above range, a structure in which polyester filaments are particularly arranged in the outer layer of the composite yarn And the texture of the acetate filament is impaired. In order to be a composite yarn having good convergence, good quality and good texture, the yarn length difference of the composite yarn after heat setting needs to be within this range.

  When the composite yarn of the present invention is used to form a woven or knitted fabric, the composite yarn may be used alone, or may be combined with other fibers or knitted or knitted. In the case of weaving and knitting, it is preferable that the blend ratio of the composite yarn is 50% or more in order to make use of the characteristics of the composite yarn. Other fibers include cellulosic spun yarn and filaments such as cotton, hemp, cupra, rayon, lyocell, and modal, silk, polyamide (6, 66), polyester (cationic dyeable yarn, atmospheric pressure dispersible yarn, etc.) Examples include spandex, polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, polybutylene terephthalate fiber, polyethylene terephthalate eccentricity, and bonded conjugate fiber, and the material to be combined is not particularly limited.

  In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, since swelling, elasticity and soft feel can be obtained without alkali weight reduction processing, it is sufficient to dye under the dyeing processing conditions that do not impair the properties of the acetate filament, and there are no particular restrictions on the conditions. . Depending on the purpose, a mild alkali treatment may be applied. In the strong twisted textured knitted fabric, textured standing by a washer, a liquid dyeing machine or the like is preferable, and there may be hot air relaxation treatment by a shrink surfer or the like. Further, for the purpose of further lightening the polyester filament, it is desirable to perform heat setting before dyeing, specifically 180 to 220 ° C., preferably 190 to 210 ° C., preferably high temperature intermediate set for about 30 to 60 seconds. . Note that the knitted or knitted fabric may be subjected to processing for adding functionality such as hydrophilicity and water repellency and texture such as silk protein.

  The effects of the composite yarn and woven or knitted fabric of the present invention are shown below, but the present invention is not limited to these. In addition, evaluation of the characteristic value in an Example was performed as follows.

(Boiling water shrinkage)
JIS-L-1013.88.18.1 hot water shrinkage rate b) Filament shrinkage rate Measured according to the B method. The temperature of hot water was 98 ° C.

(Strength)
Using Tensilon manufactured by Toyo Baldwin in accordance with the tensile strength (standard test) of JIS-L-1013.8.5.1, gripping distance 20 cm, tensile speed 20 cm / min, ambient temperature 20 ° C. ± 2 ° C. The SS curve was measured and the breaking strength was calculated.

(Elongation)
Using Tensilon manufactured by Toyo Baldwin in accordance with the tensile strength (standard test) of JIS-L-1013.8.5.1, gripping distance 20 cm, tensile speed 20 cm / min, ambient temperature 20 ° C. ± 2 ° C. The SS curve was measured and the elongation at break was calculated.

(Thermal stress)
When an initial load of 0.002 cN / dtex is applied to 100 mm of polyester filament and the temperature is increased from room temperature to 250 ° C. at a temperature increase rate of 120 ° C./min with a thermal stress tester KE-2S (manufactured by Kanebo Engineering). A curve of shrinkage stress with respect to the temperature was drawn and the maximum thermal stress at 70 to 100 ° C. was obtained.

(Entanglement)
It measured based on the entanglement degree of JIS-L-1013.8.15.

(Difference in heat set yarn length)
After untwisting the yarn heat-treated by the same method as the measurement of the boiling water shrinkage rate according to the number of twists of JIS-1013.8.13, the yarn length was measured. At that time, mark at 1 cm from both sides of the grasping point of the twisting machine, grasp one mark after untwisting, and apply a predetermined load as described in JIS-1013.88.13.1 to each yarn. The yarn length was measured.
Polyester filament length Lp, acetate filament length Lc
Yarn length difference ΔL = (Lp−Lc) / Lp × 100 (%)

(Condense state of composite yarn of knitted fabric)
After knitting the tengu tissue with 28 gauges and 48 yarns, scouring and relaxing with boil using a liquid dyeing machine, dyeing with disperse dye at 120 ° C for 40 minutes, reducing and washing, dehydrating and drying set The form of the composite yarn unwound from the fabric was evaluated according to the following criteria A to D.
A: Two materials are integrated and uniform B: Two materials are almost integrated and almost uniform C: Yarn is slightly crimped, spanned D: The two materials dissociate in a loop shape due to shrinkage difference, and two bulky Layer structure

(Same color of composite yarn of knitted fabric)
The appearance of the same color of the polyester filament and acetate filament of the composite yarn after dyeing with the dyeing recipe described in Examples 1 to 3 was evaluated according to the following criteria A to D.
A: Almost the same color B: Polyester filament is dark and slightly the same color C: Polyester filament is dark and light tones D: Polyester filament is dark and strong tones

(Fabric appearance grade)
The appearance quality of the fabric was evaluated according to the following criteria A to D.
A: Uniform B: Almost uniform C: Slight span D: Span

(Texture of the knitted fabric)
In the sensory evaluation by five experts, the feeling of swelling, elasticity, slimy feeling, dry feeling and soft feeling were comprehensively evaluated according to the following criteria.
5: Very good, 4: Somewhat excellent, 3: Good, 2: Somewhat inferior, 1: Very inferior

The following yarns (i) to (iii) were prepared for Examples and Comparative Examples.
(I) As a semi-drawn yarn, a polyester (containing 0.3% by weight of titanium oxide, round cross section) which is a polymer of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid and is substantially made of polyethylene terephthalate alone, has a take-up speed of 3,200 m / min and 2 , 50T24f (semi-dull) semi-drawn yarns A and B wound up at 500 m / min were prepared. The semi-drawn yarns A and B have the physical properties described in Examples 1 and 4 in Table 1, respectively.
(Ii) As a triacetate filament, 61T15f (bright, strength 1.2 cN / dtec, boiling water shrinkage rate 2.1%) manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. was prepared.
(Iii) As a polyester highly shrinkable filament, 56T24f (semi-dull, round cross-section yarn) containing 5.0% by weight of isophthalic acid terephthalate as a polymer of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid was prepared. This polyester highly shrinkable filament C has the physical properties described in Comparative Example 2 in Table 1.

Example 1
Using a semi-drawn yarn A having a low boiling water shrinkage, air-mixed with a triacetate filament according to the conditions shown in Table 1 and the manufacturing process shown in FIG. 1 without heat treatment, and wound to obtain a composite yarn having the physical properties shown in Table 1. . Next, this composite yarn was twisted with a double twister (DT302 type, 8,000 r / m) at 600 t / m to make 1 kg of cheese (wheat density 0.700 g / cm3), and then heated at 75 ° C. for 40 minutes with a steam setter. The heat set was performed.

  The resulting composite yarn was knitted with a tengu tissue (28 gauge), 48 yarns, and tempered with a liquid dyeing machine for 20 minutes by refining and relaxing. After intermediate setting at 160 ° C. for 30 seconds, 120 Dyeing with a disperse dye at 60 ° C. for 60 minutes, followed by washing, and drying at 160 ° C. for 30 seconds.

  The dyeing conditions at this time were: Kayalon Polyester Blue TS (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) 2.0% owf, bath ratio 1:30, pH 4.5 (acetic acid), dye dispersant Sun Salt 7000 (Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1g / l, increased from 70 ° C to 120 ° C with a temperature rise of 1.5 ° C, dyeing for 60 minutes, then monogen 170 (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) 1g / l at 60 ° C for 20 minutes Soaping was done.

  Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the composite yarn and the knitted fabric obtained in Example 1. Moreover, the enlarged photograph of the composite yarn of the knitted fabric of Example 1 is shown in FIG. The processing shrinkage of the knitted fabric of Example 1 is small, the yarn length difference between the polyester filament and the triacetate filament of the composite yarn of the knitted fabric is small, and the two materials are integrated without being separated into a loop shape, good feeling of swelling, There was a slimy feeling and a soft texture. The convergence of the composite yarn unraveled from the knitted fabric was uniform and good, and the same color was obtained although the polyester was slightly darker but the same color was obtained. The appearance quality of the fabric was uniform, reflecting the convergence and the same color of the composite yarn, and the texture was swollen, smooth, soft and good. Compared with the composite yarn of Comparative Example 1, the shape and the same color were greatly improved.

Example 2
A composite yarn and a knitted fabric were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that only the intermediate setting condition was changed to 200 ° C. for 30 seconds. The details and evaluation results of the composite yarn and knitted fabric obtained in Example 2 are shown in Table 1. The knitted fabric of Example 2 was improved in the same manner as the composite yarn of Example 1, and the same color was better.

Examples 3 and 4
The low boiling water shrinkage semi-drawn yarn A (Example 3) and the high boiling water shrinkage semi-drawn yarn B (Example 4) were both triacetate and the conditions shown in Table 1 and the production process of FIG. Air mixed fibers were wound up, and composite yarns having the physical properties shown in Table 1 were obtained. Next, these composite yarns were twisted at 600 t / m with a double twister (DT302 type, 8,000 r / m) to make 1 kg of cheese (wheat density 0.700 g / cm ³ ) and then heated at 120 ° C. with a steam setter. A minute set was made.

Example 5
2 is a non-contact type heater (FIG. 2) maintained at the temperature shown in Table 1 installed in the overfeed zone 5 between 4 and 6 in the manufacturing process of FIG. Inside 5), it was run under the conditions of the overfeed rate of 0% (not relaxed) shown in Table 1, heat-treated, and wound up as it was. When winding the heat-treated yarn, triacetate 61T15f (2 in the figure) is fed to the feed roller (6 in the figure) and aligned with the heat-treated yarn, and the overfeed rate is 0% between the feed rollers (4 and 6 in the figure). The composite yarn was obtained by winding while performing air fiber mixing with an interlacer (7 in the figure) having an air pressure of 3 kg / cm ² = 306 kPa (7 in the figure). Next, in the same manner as in Examples 3 and 4, twisting was performed at 600 t / m with a double twister (DT302 type, 8,000 r / m) to make 1 kg of cheese (whiskering density 0.700 g / cm3), and then 120 with a steam setter. Setting for 40 minutes was performed.

  The composite yarns obtained in Examples 3 to 5 were knitted and dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the intermediate set was set to 200 ° C. for 30 seconds. Table 1 shows the details and evaluation results of the composite yarns and knitted fabrics obtained in Examples 3 to 5.

  In Examples 3 to 5, the boiling water shrinkage rate was high up to the composite yarn after blending, and a difference in thermal stress was observed, but after twisting and steam setting, these differences became small, and the boiling water shrinkage rate was triacetate. It became a low value that approximated the filament. The convergence of the composite yarn unwound from the knitted fabric was uniform in Examples 3 and 4, and almost uniform in Example 5. Similarly, the same color properties of the composite yarns were good in Examples 3 and 4, and Example 5 showed the same color property that the polyester filament could not be distinguished from Examples 3 and 4, and was good. As for the appearance quality of the fabric, Examples 3 and 4 reflected the convergence and the same color of the composite yarn and were uniform, and Example 5 was sufficiently good although it was slightly inferior to Examples 3 and 4. As for the texture, Examples 3 and 4 are swelled, smooth and soft, and Example 5 is slightly heat-swelled and smoother than Examples 3 and 4 because the semi-drawn yarn is heat-treated. It was a thing.

Comparative Example 1
The semi-drawn yarn A having a low boiling water shrinkage was subjected to relaxation heat treatment in the same process as in Example 5 under the conditions of an overfeed rate of 38% and a heat treatment temperature of 225 ° C., and mixed with a triacetate filament to obtain a composite yarn. The composite yarn had a sufficiently low boiling water shrinkage without heat setting. A knitted fabric was dyed and processed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The details and evaluation results of the composite yarn and knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1 are shown in Table 1. Moreover, the enlarged photograph of the composite yarn of the knitted fabric of the comparative example 1 is shown in FIG. The texture was excellent with a swelled, elastic and slimy feeling, but the composite yarn unwound from the processed knitted fabric had crimped spots, and a span with apparent thick spots due to crimped spots. The polyester filament had a deep-colored appearance, and the polyester filaments had a deep-dyeing and the triacetate filaments had a light-dyedness, and were not of good quality.

Comparative Example 2
This is a composite yarn of polyester high-shrinkage filament C containing isophthalic acid and triacetate filament, which was prepared by mixing, twisting and setting in the same manner as in Example 1. The details and evaluation results of the composite yarn and the knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Example 2 are shown in Table 1. Convergence of the composite yarn is good, and the appearance of the knitted fabric is uniform. However, the polyester has a lighter color than Examples 1-5, and the composite yarn after setting has a high boiling water shrinkage and thermal stress. The dry texture of the triacetate filaments, which had a large shrinkage and appeared on the surface layer of the composite yarn, was emphasized, but the fabric was hard and lacked a feeling of swelling, which was significantly inferior to the examples.

Example 6
In the production process of FIG. 4, the semi-drawn yarn B having a high boiling water shrinkage is supplied between the feed rollers 5 and 6 at an overfeed rate of 0%, and the triacetate filament is fed at an overfeed rate of 0. It was fed at 3%, combined with a feed roller 6, and wound around a pirn at 12 t / m. Then, 600 t / m twisting was performed with a double twister, and a steam set at 120 ° C. for 40 minutes was performed. This composite yarn by twisting was knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Examples 3-5. The details and evaluation results of the composite yarn and knitted fabric obtained in Example 6 are shown in Table 2.

  In Example 6, the composite twisted yarn after setting was higher in strength than the Example 4 because there was no damage due to air pressure at the time of fiber mixing, and a slightly larger amount of triacetate filaments were arranged in the outer layer portion, and a composite yarn similar to the core-sheath structure It had a shape and good convergence. The composite yarn unraveled from the dyeing process is a yarn form in which the polyester filament is wrapped in the inner layer portion by the triacetate filament, so that it is uniform and excellent in the same color, and is of a better quality than the composite yarn by blending of Examples 3 and 4. there were. The fabric surface has a dry feeling of triacetate filaments as compared with Examples 3 to 5, but it has a novel texture with a strong cushioning effect due to the presence of polyester filaments that swell in the inner layer and have a resilient feeling. It became the character of the superiority of the invention.

  According to the present invention, while maintaining the excellent color development, dryness, firmness, and drape of the acetate filament, the polyester filament can be dyed, moderately swelled, elastic, slimy, and soft. This is very useful industrially because an acetate woven or knitted fabric most suitable for apparel made of these and composite yarns having the same can be easily obtained.

Claims (4)

A composite yarn comprising polyester filaments and acetate filaments obtained without subjecting a semi-drawn yarn to heat treatment, the weight ratio of which is 20:80 to 80:20, wherein the composite yarn is subjected to heat setting, Composite yarns characterized in that later physical properties satisfy the following (i) to (iii):
(I) Boiling water shrinkage is 0 to 8%;
(Ii) The maximum value of the thermal stress is 70 to 100 ° C., and the maximum thermal stress is 0.001 to 0.030 cN / dtex;
(Iii) The yarn length difference between the polyester filament and the acetate filament is within ± 6%. A composite yarn comprising a polyester filament and an acetate filament obtained by subjecting a semi-drawn yarn to heat treatment without relaxing, the weight ratio of which is 20:80 to 80:20, and the composite yarn is subjected to heat setting The composite yarn characterized in that the physical properties after heat setting satisfy the following (i) to (iii):
(I) Boiling water shrinkage is 0 to 8%;
(Ii) The maximum value of the thermal stress is 70 to 100 ° C., and the maximum thermal stress is 0.001 to 0.030 cN / dtex;
(Iii) The yarn length difference between the polyester filament and the acetate filament is within ± 6%.   A knitted or knitted fabric, wherein the composite yarn according to claim 1 or 2 has a mixing ratio of 50% or more.   The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 3, wherein heat setting is further performed in a state of the woven or knitted fabric before dyeing.