JP4709643B2 - Skin impression production method - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to an impression control agent that can produce various skin impressions when applied to the entire face.

  As cosmetics to be applied to the entire face, makeup bases, foundations, and the like are used for the purpose of protecting the skin from damages such as ultraviolet rays or concealing skin defects caused by unevenness and uneven color of the skin. On the other hand, there are makeup cosmetics that are applied to a part of the skin, such as eye shadows and blushers, to change the facial impression. In order to arrange the appearance of the skin and to achieve a desired impression, in the conventional makeup, the former and the latter are used continuously in a series of makeup.

Patent Document 1 discloses that a first cosmetic material containing a specific hue and saturation, and a powder component having a ratio of specular reflected light intensity to diffuse reflected light intensity, and a hue different from the first cosmetic material. Combining the second cosmetic material containing the powder component of the saturation and the ratio of the specular reflection light intensity and the diffuse reflection light intensity, and applying the first cosmetic material and the second cosmetic material in layers. Cosmetics have been proposed.
However, cosmetics that can produce various skin impressions by applying one agent to the entire face have not been known.
JP 2005-187417 A

  An object of this invention is to provide the skin impression control agent which can produce the impression of skin variously by apply | coating one agent to the whole face.

  The present inventors have found that a composition having specific optical characteristics and having an appearance color of skin color can produce various skin impressions when applied to the entire face.

The present invention, incident light angle 45 ° by a measuring method 1, the relationship of each of the chroma C ^* ab was measured as a light receiving angle of 0 ° and 45 ° (0) and ^{C * ab (45), C} * ab ( 45) Skin with -C ^* ab (0)> 0, lightness L ^* measured by Measurement Method 2 of 30 or more, hue angle h of 0 ° to 90 °, and saturation C ^* ab of 5 or more An impression control agent is provided.
(Measuring method 1) The composition is uniformly applied to black artificial leather so as to be 8 mg / 100 cm ^2, and a color value defined by the CIE 1976 L ^* a ^* b ^* color system using a gonometric colorimeter ^. Measure.
(Measuring method 2) The composition is placed in a cell, and the color value defined by the CIE 1976 L ^* a ^* b ^* color system is measured on the surface of the composition using a colorimeter.

  By applying this to the entire face, the impression control agent of the present invention can produce various skin impressions, and a bright finish with transparency can be obtained.

First, the impression control agent of the present invention has the saturation C ^* ab (0) and C ^* ab (45) measured by the measurement method 1 with an incident light angle of 45 °, a light receiving angle of 0 ° and 45 °, respectively. The relationship is C ^* ab (45) -C ^* ab (0)> 0, preferably C ^* ab (45) -C ^* ab (0)> 1.5.
This C ^* ab (45) -C ^* ab (0)> 0 means that the color of the surface reflected light is darker than the diffuse reflected light, but if this is less than 0, the skin impression cannot be changed. .

Here, in the measuring method 1, first, the composition is applied on black artificial leather so as to be 8 mg / 100 cm ^2, and uniformly applied by using a sponge so as to be lightly rubbed on the artificial leather. . This is measured at an incident light angle of 45 °, a light receiving angle of 0 ° and 45 ° using a variable angle colorimeter, for example, a variable angle spectroscopic measurement system (Murakami Color Research Laboratory, GCMS-4). The two reflected lights at this time are defined by the CIE 1976 L ^* a ^* b ^* color system, the saturation at a light receiving angle of 0 ° is C ^* ab (0), and the saturation at a light receiving angle of 45 ° is C ^* ab (45 ) And C ^* ab (45) −C ^* ab (0) is obtained.

The impression control agent of the present invention has a lightness L ^* measured by the measurement method 2 of 30 or more, a hue angle h of 0 ° to 90 °, and a saturation C ^* ab of 5 or more. Outside this range,
In the measurement method 2, first, the composition is put in a cell, and the color value defined by the CIE 1976 L ^* a ^* b ^* color system using the colorimeter is measured for its surface (appearance color of the composition), that is, brightness. L ^* , hue angle h, and saturation C ^* ab are obtained. Any measuring device may be used as long as an object can be placed in a cell and the appearance color can be measured. For example, a spectroscopic color difference meter SE2000 manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd. can be used.

  In addition, the impression control agent of the present invention has a hue angle h (0) measured by the measurement method 1 with an incident light angle of 45 ° and a light receiving angle of 0 °, as described above, such that 40 ° <h (0) <100. In the case of the angle, that is, when the diffuse reflection light is skin color and the surface reflection light is skin color, a gorgeous impression or a sexy impression can be produced.

On the other hand, in each chromaticity (a ^* , b ^* ) measured by the measuring method 1 as an incident light angle of 45 °, a light receiving angle of −60 °, 0 °, and 45 °, the light receiving angle from −60 ° to 0 °. the direction of the chromaticity change in the a ^* b ^* space with the angular change, the direction of change in chromaticity of the light receiving angle -60 ° from the a ^* b ^* space due to the angle changes to 45 °, 10 ° or more difference When the hue changes depending on the viewing angle, for example, when the diffuse reflection light is skin color and the surface reflection light is red, a cute impression, feminine impression, diffuse reflection light skin color, and the surface When the reflected light is green, it can produce an adult impression and a subtle impression, and when the diffuse reflected light is skin color and the surface reflected light is blue, it can produce a cool impression and urban impression it can.
The words to express each impression mentioned above are makeup faces that are applied to the entire face of the model with a composition designed with consideration of diffuse reflection light and surface reflection light so as to be the optical characteristics of each impression. , 14 professional panelists observed and felt the impression as a trend.

More specifically, the respective chromaticities (a ^* (−60), b ^* (−60)) measured by the measurement method 1 as incident light angles of 45 °, light receiving angles of −60 °, 0 °, and 45 °. , (A ^* (0), b ^* (0)) and (a ^* (45), b ^* (45)), h ′ (45) and h ′ (0) When the relationship is | h ′ (45) −h ′ (0) |> 10, various impressions can be produced.
(Formula 1) h ′ (0) = tan ⁻¹ ((b ^* (0) −b ^* (− 60)) / (a ^* (0) −a ^* (− 60)))
(Expression 2) h ′ (45) = tan ⁻¹ ((b ^* (45) −b ^* (− 60)) / (a ^* (45) −a ^* (− 60)))

  As described above, the impression control agent of the present invention has an application color (diffuse reflection component) of skin color, a bright finish with transparency, and a color-specific impression by changing the color of the surface reflected light. Can be produced.

The impression control agent of the present invention includes, for example, the following components (A), (B) and (C):
(A) Yellow iron oxide-coated pearl pigment having an average particle diameter of 5 to 15 μm,
(B) Red iron oxide-coated pearl pigment having an average particle diameter of 5 to 15 μm,
(C) It can manufacture by using a pearl pigment with an average particle diameter of 20-50 micrometers.

  In the present invention, the average particle diameter is measured with a laser scattering type particle size distribution measuring apparatus (for example, LA-700 type manufactured by Horiba, Ltd.).

The pearl pigments of component (A) and component (B) having a relatively small particle size have low color development direction and low color development. Skin color is made with the iron oxide-coated pearl pigment of component (A) and component (B).
On the other hand, the color development by the pearl pigment of the component (C) having a relatively large particle diameter is highly directional and high color development is obtained. The pearl pigment of component (C) having a relatively large particle size creates light that changes the impression. Thus, by using together the pearl pigment having a relatively small particle size and the pearl pigment of the component (C) having a relatively large particle size, components (A) and (B), h ′ The relationship between (45) and h ′ (0) leads to | h ′ (45) −h ′ (0) |> 10, and various impressions can be produced.

  The component (A) is obtained by coating the surface of the pearl pigment with yellow iron oxide, and has an average particle size of 5 to 15 μm, preferably 6 to 13 μm. The pearl pigment used here preferably has a gold interference color.

  A conventional method can be used for coating the surface of the pearl pigment with yellow iron oxide. For example, ferrous chloride, ferric chloride, ferrous sulfate, ferric sulfate, ferrous nitrate, ferric nitrate, ferrous oxalate, ferric ammonium oxalate, ferric ammonium sulfate After adding a pearl pigment into an inorganic or organic iron compound aqueous solution such as ferric phosphate, ferric citrate, ferrous lactate, iron fumarate, etc., 50-100 ° C, preferably 80-100 ° C It can be manufactured by hydrolyzing the iron compound to precipitate yellow iron oxide on the surface of the pearl pigment, washing with water and filtering, and drying at 150 ° C. or lower.

The component (B) is a pearl pigment whose surface is coated with red iron oxide, and has an average particle size of 5 to 15 μm, preferably 6 to 13 μm. The pearl pigment used here preferably has a red or purple interference color.
As a method for coating the surface of the pearl pigment with red iron oxide, a conventional method can be used. For example, red iron oxide can be coated by firing at 150 ° C. or higher, preferably 400 ° C. or higher in the same manner until the component (A) yellow iron oxide is coated.

  The pearl pigment used for both components (A) and (B) has a pearly luster in which an optically transparent material having a different refractive index is coated on a flaky substrate. Examples of the flaky substrate include mica, synthetic mica, silica flakes, aluminum flakes, aluminum oxide flakes, iron oxide flakes, and glass flakes. Mica, synthetic mica, and glass flakes are preferable because of high transparency. Examples of optically transparent materials for coating the flaky substrate include titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, tin oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, silica, chromium, titanium nitride, titanium, magnesium fluoride alumina, boehmite, and boron oxide. From the point of color development, titanium oxide, tin oxide, iron oxide, and a mixture thereof are preferable. More specifically, the surface of the mica is preferably coated with titanium oxide or a mixture of titanium oxide and iron oxide or tin oxide. For example, ENGELHARD Flamenco Satin series, ECKART Prestige Silk series It can be used suitably.

Moreover, it is preferable that the coverage of the iron oxide in component (A) and (B) is 1-15 mass% with respect to a pearl pigment, especially 2-10 mass%. A coverage in this range is preferable because the effect of hiding color unevenness without reducing the interference color is optimal.
In both components (A) and (B), if the average particle size is less than 5 μm, a sufficient color forming effect cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 15 μm, a natural skin color cannot be produced and glare occurs, which is not preferable.

The total content of the components (A) and (B) is 2 to 15% by mass, particularly 3 to 10% by mass in the total composition, so that the effect of hiding color unevenness is sufficiently obtained and the finish is also natural. Therefore, it is preferable.
Further, the content ratio of the components (A) and (B) (mass ratio) is (A) :( B) = 2: 1 to 25: 1, particularly 3: 1 to 23: 1. This is preferable because the appearance and finish are natural.

Component (C) is a pearl pigment having an average particle size of 20 to 50 μm, preferably 22 to 45 μm. If the average particle size is less than 20 μm, the effect of producing a clean skin cannot be obtained sufficiently, and if it exceeds 50 μm, the glare increases and the result is unnatural. The pearl pigment has a pearly luster in which optically transparent materials having different refractive indexes are coated on a flaky substrate. Examples of the flaky substrate include mica, synthetic mica, silica flakes, aluminum flakes, aluminum oxide flakes, iron oxide flakes, and glass flakes. Mica, synthetic mica, and glass flakes are preferable because of high transparency. Examples of optically transparent materials for coating the flaky substrate include titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, tin oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, silica, chromium, titanium nitride, titanium, magnesium fluoride alumina, boehmite, and boron oxide. From the point of color development, titanium oxide, tin oxide, iron oxide, and a mixture thereof are preferable. More specifically, it is preferable to coat the surface of mica with titanium oxide or a mixture of titanium oxide and iron oxide or tin oxide.
As the mica titanium having an average particle size of 20 to 50 μm, for example, Flamenco series, Flamenco Summit series, Merck TIMIRON SUPER series, ECKART Prestige series, Prestige Bright series manufactured by ENGELHARD can be used.

  Ingredient (C) is contained in the total composition in an amount of 1 to 15% by mass, particularly 2 to 10% by mass, and the effect of producing various skin impressions is sufficiently obtained, and there is no glare and a natural finish. This is preferable.

  In the foundation of the present invention, the content ratio (mass ratio) of the components (A), (B) and (C) is (A) + (B) :( C) = 1: 3 to 5: 1, particularly 1: It is preferable that the ratio is 2 to 4: 1 because the effect of covering color unevenness while maintaining naturalness and the effect of producing various skin impressions can be sufficiently achieved.

  The powders of the components (A), (B) and (C) may be used after the surface thereof is hydrophobized. Examples of the hydrophobization treatment method include an oil treatment method in which fat or oil is adsorbed on the powder surface or a functional group such as a hydroxyl group is used to cause esterification or etherification to make the pigment lipophilic; Examples thereof include a metal soap treatment method using a zinc salt or a magnesium salt; a silicone treatment method using dimethylpolysiloxane or methylhydrogen polysiloxane; a treatment method using a fluorine compound having a perfluoroalkyl group.

In the impression control agent of the present invention, the content of the colorant contained in addition to the components (A), (B) and (C) is 3% by mass or less, particularly 0.5% by mass or less, and the transparency is low. It is preferable because it is high and is excellent in the effect of producing various skin impressions. Furthermore, it is preferable that a colorant other than components (A), (B) and (C) is substantially not contained. Here, the colorant is an inorganic white pigment such as titanium oxide, iron oxide, bitumen, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide or the like; an organic pigment such as red 201, yellow 401, blue 1 or green 3; is there.
If the content of the colorant is 3% by mass or less, the transparency is high and it is easy to produce various skin impressions.

  The impression control agent of this invention can contain the component used for normal cosmetics by the intended purpose etc. other than the said component. For example, surfactants, polymer compounds, oils, extenders, moisturizers, preservatives, drugs, UV absorbers, antioxidants, inorganic acid salts or organic acid salts, fragrances, chelating agents, pH adjusters, water, etc. Can be contained.

  The impression control agent of the present invention can be produced according to a conventional method using the above components, and is a powder solid type, a highly oil-containing powder solid type, an oil dispersion type, a water dispersion type, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion. It can be set as arbitrary dosage forms. It is particularly suitable for use as a foundation.

Production Example 1
An aqueous solution prepared by dissolving 60 parts by mass of ferric sulfate n-hydrate in 2000 parts by mass of ion-exchanged water and adjusting the pH to 2.8 with 0.1 mol / L sodium hydroxide aqueous solution was added to mica titanium (manufactured by ENGELHARD) ( Flamenco Satin Gold) was added in an amount of 100 parts by mass, and the mixture was sufficiently stirred and dispersed uniformly. Next, this mica titanium dispersion was heated with stirring and boiled for 6 hours. After allowing to cool, the mixture was filtered and washed with water to obtain 103 parts by mass of titanium mica coated with yellow iron oxide.
The obtained yellow iron oxide-coated mica titanium had an average particle diameter of 7.0 μm, and the yellow iron oxide coverage was 7% by mass.

Production Example 2
An aqueous solution prepared by dissolving 60 parts by mass of ferric sulfate n-hydrate in 2000 parts by mass of ion-exchanged water and adjusting the pH to 2.8 with 0.1 mol / L sodium hydroxide aqueous solution was added to mica titanium (manufactured by ENGELHARD) ( Flamenco Satin Red) was added in an amount of 100 parts by mass, and the mixture was sufficiently stirred and dispersed uniformly. Next, this mica titanium dispersion was heated with stirring and boiled for 6 hours. After allowing to cool, it was filtered, washed with water, and calcined at 800 ° C. for 2 hours to obtain 102 parts by mass of titanium mica coated with red iron oxide.
The average particle diameter of the obtained red iron oxide-coated mica titanium was 7.2 μm, and the coverage of red iron oxide was 7% by mass.

Examples 1-4, Comparative Examples 1-3
An impression control agent having the composition shown in Table 1 was produced and evaluated for a sexy impression, an adult impression, an urban impression, a cute impression, a clean makeup feeling, a transparent finish, and a bright finish. The results are shown in Table 2.

(Manufacturing method)
The oil phase components ((1) to (3)) and the powder components ((4) to (15)) heated to 70 ° C. were stirred with a disper (2000 rpm, 15 minutes) to be uniform. Next, an aqueous phase component ((16) to (18)) uniformly dissolved at 70 ° C. is added to emulsify, then cooled to room temperature with stirring, and finally homomixer (5000 rpm, 10 rpm). Minutes) to obtain a liquid impression control agent.

(Evaluation methods)
“Special impression”, “Adult impression”, “Urban impression”, “Cute impression”, “Cute impression” when 14 impression panelists applied each impression control agent to all faces “Feel”, “Transparent finish”, “Bright finish”, 5 points for “I think so”, 4 points for “I think so”, 3 points for “I can't say”, “I don't think” was evaluated as 2 points and “I don't think so” was evaluated as 1 point, and the average value was shown.

Claims (3)

The following components (A), (B) and (C):
(A) Yellow iron oxide-coated pearl pigment having an average particle diameter of 5 to 15 μm,
(B) Red iron oxide-coated pearl pigment having an average particle diameter of 5 to 15 μm,
(C) contains a pearl pigment having an average particle diameter of 20 to 50 μm,
The total content of components (A) and (B) is 2 to 15% by mass in the total composition, and the content of component (C) is 1 to 15% by mass in the total composition,
A foundation in which the content of the colorant contained in addition to the components (A), (B) and (C) is 3% by mass or less,
The relationship between the saturations C ^* ab (0) and C ^* ab (45) measured by the following measurement method 1 with an incident light angle of 45 °, a light receiving angle of 0 ° and 45 ° is C ^* ab (45) − All foundations having C ^* ab (0)> 0, lightness L ^* measured by measurement method 2 of 30 or more, hue angle h of 0 ° to 90 °, and saturation C ^* ab of 5 or more A skin impression production method that changes the skin impression by applying to the face.
(Measuring method 1) The composition is uniformly applied to black artificial leather so as to be 8 mg / 100 cm ^2, and a color value defined by the CIE 1976 L ^* a ^* b ^* color system using a gonometric colorimeter ^. Measure.
(Measuring method 2) The composition is placed in a cell, and the color value defined by the CIE 1976 L ^* a ^* b ^* color system is measured on the surface of the composition using a colorimeter.   The impression of skin according to claim 1, wherein the foundation has a hue angle h (0) of 40 ° <h (0) <100 ° as measured by Method 1 with an incident light angle of 45 ° and a light receiving angle of 0 °. Method. In each chromaticity (a ^* , b ^* ) measured by the measurement method 1 with an incident light angle of 45 °, a light receiving angle of −60 °, 0 °, and 45 °, the light receiving angle is −60 ° to 0 °. of the direction of change in chromaticity a ^* b ^* space with the angular change, the direction of the chromaticity change in the a ^* b ^* space with the angular change to 45 ° from the acceptance angle -60 ° is, 10 ° or more The skin impression production method according to claim 1, wherein there is a difference.