JP4484649B2 - Method for producing solid powder makeup cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for producing a solid powder makeup cosmetic, and more particularly, to a method for producing a solid powder makeup cosmetic that is excellent in impact resistance, has good usability, and is highly blended with a pearlescent pigment.

Solid powder makeup cosmetics such as eye shadows, blushers, and face colors have been blended with pearlescent pigments to impart beautiful luster, color development and texture. However, since pearlescent pigments generally have poor moldability and are difficult to blend with, it is necessary to blend a large amount of extender pigments such as talc, kaolin, sericite, mica, or a solid oil. (For example, see Patent Document 1).
However, although high formability of the extender pigment and solid oil content improve the moldability, when the extender pigment is highly formulated, it becomes powdery and a smooth feeling of use cannot be obtained, or the extender pigment is concealed. The gloss and texture of pearlescent pigments were not fully exhibited by force. In addition, when a solid oil is blended, it can be molded by a press molding method in which it is solidified by compression pressing. However, if the blending amount of the pearl luster pigment exceeds 50% by mass, the impact resistance due to dropping or the like becomes very poor. The problem was still not solved.

On the other hand, as a method for producing a solid powder cosmetic with good moldability, there is a method in which a cosmetic component dissolved in a solvent and made viscous is pressure-filled into a container, the solvent is absorbed by an absorber and the cosmetic is filled and solidified. It is known (see, for example, Patent Document 2).
However, this method has failed to obtain a solid powder makeup cosmetic with a high blend of pearlescent pigments.
Due to the above reasons, a solid powder makeup cosmetic that is highly blended with pearl luster pigment, has good impact resistance of the molded product, and can be applied evenly, and can give sufficient gloss and transparency. Was very difficult.

JP 7-215822 A Japanese Patent Publication No.57-60004

  In view of the conventional circumstances as described above, the present invention is highly blended with a pearl luster pigment, has good impact resistance of the molded product, and can be applied uniformly, and has a sufficient gloss and transparency even when applied in appearance. An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a solid powder makeup cosmetic that can give a feeling.

The present invention
(A) 50 to 85% by mass of a pearlescent pigment based on the total amount of the base;
(B) extender pigment,
(C) Two or more polar oil components having an IOB of 0.1 to 0.5 in the organic conceptual diagram, the polar oil component having a viscosity of 5 mPa · s or more and less than 500 mPa · s at 30 ° C., and a viscosity of 500 mPa · s. s to 20,000 mPa · s polar oil,
One or two polar oils having a viscosity of 5 mPa · s or more and less than 500 mPa · s selected from glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexylate, cetyl octanoate, glyceryl diisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, and trimethylolpropane trioctanoate The polar oil component having a viscosity of 500 mPa · s or more and 20000 mPa · s or less is one or more selected from diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate, castor oil,
The oil phase part whose blending amount of total polar oil is 5 to 20% by mass in the cosmetic base,
A solvent is added to the cosmetic base material containing, and then the slurry is filled into a container using a nozzle, and then the solvent is removed .
It is a method for producing a solid powder makeup cosmetic, wherein the viscosity of the oil phase part in the cosmetic base is adjusted to 200 to 1000 mPa · s .

In the present invention, the viscosity of the oil phase part in the cosmetic base is preferably adjusted to 10 to 2000 mPa · s, more preferably 200 to 1000 mPa · s.
The polar oil component having a viscosity of 5 mPa · s to less than 500 mPa · s at 30 ° C. in the component (c) is glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, and has a viscosity of 500 mPa · s to 20000 mPa · s. It is preferred that the oil is diisostearyl malate.

  Furthermore, according to this invention, the solid-type powder makeup cosmetics manufactured by the above-mentioned method are provided.

  According to the method of the present invention, a solid powder makeup cosmetic that has a high blending of pearlescent pigments, has a very good impact resistance of a molded product, and can be applied uniformly, giving a sufficient gloss and transparency. Can be manufactured.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The (a) pearl luster pigment used in the present invention includes iron oxide-coated mica titanium, iron oxide-coated mica, black iron oxide-coated mica titanium, iron oxide / black iron oxide-coated mica, in addition to normal mica titanium having pearl luster Titanium, Carmine-coated Mica Titanium, Carmine / Conjugate-coated Mica Titanium, Iron Oxide / Carmine-treated Mica Titanium, Conger-treated Mica Titanium, Iron Oxide / Conjugate-treated Mica Titanium, Chrome Oxide-treated Mica Titanium, Black Titanium Oxide-treated Mica Titanium, Acrylic Resin Coated aluminum powder (which may contain a coloring material), titanium oxide coated mica, titanium oxide coated bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide coated talc, colored titanium oxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, fish scale foil, etc. can be used. .

  (A) Specific examples of pearlescent pigments include Timilon Splendid Gold, Timilon Splendid Red, Timilon Splendid Blue, Timilon Splendid Green, Temilon Super Red, Temilon Super Blue, Temilon Super Green, Temilon Super Gold, Colorona Siena, Colorona Carmine Red, Colorone Red Gold (Merck), Croizone Blue, Croisonone Green, Croisonone Gold, Croisonelle Flambe, Gemtone Tan Opal, Gemtone Ruby, Chimica Brilliant Gold , Chimica Golden Bronze, Chimica Copper, Duochrome RB, Duochrome RY, Duochrome YR, Duochrome YB, Duochrome RG, Duochrome BG, Duo Chromium BR, duo chrome GY, flamenco bell bed, flamenco support Argentina, Flamenco Red, Flamenco Blue, Flamenco gold (all manufactured by Engelhard Corporation), and the like.

  The blending amount of the pearl luster pigment is 50 to 85% by mass, preferably 65 to 75% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic base. If it is less than 50% by mass, sufficient gloss cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 85% by mass, impact resistance due to dropping or the like is lowered.

  Examples of the extender pigment (b) used in the present invention include talc, kaolin, sericite, mica and the like.

  The blending amount of the extender pigment is adjusted by the blending amount of the pearl luster pigment, but is preferably 5 to 45% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic base. When the amount of extender is less than 5% by mass, the impact resistance becomes extremely weak. When it exceeds 45% by mass, the luster and texture of the pearlescent pigment are impaired by the hiding power of the extender pigment.

  The (c) polar oil component used in the present invention has an IOB in the organic conceptual diagram of 0.1 to 0.5, more preferably 0.2 to 0.5.

The organic conceptual diagram was proposed by Satoshi Fujita, and the details are "Pharmaceutical Bulletin", vol.2, 2, pp.163-173 (1954), "Chemical domain" vol.11, 10, pp.719-725 (1957), “Fragrance Journal”, vol.50, pp.79-82 (1981). That is, methane (CH ₄ ) is used as the root of all organic compounds, and all other compounds are regarded as derivatives of methane, and certain numbers are set for the number of carbon atoms, substituents, transformation parts, rings, etc. The score is added to obtain an organic value and an inorganic value, and these values are plotted on a diagram with the organic value on the X axis and the inorganic value on the Y axis. This organic conceptual diagram is also shown in “Organic Conceptual Diagram-Basics and Applications” (by Yoshio Koda, Sankyo Publishing, 1984).

  The IOB in the organic conceptual diagram refers to the ratio of the inorganic value (IV) to the organic value (OV) in the organic conceptual diagram, that is, “inorganic value (IV) / organic value (OV)”.

  Specific examples of polar oils used in the present invention include neopentyl glycol dicaprate (IOB = 0.25), diisopropyl sebacate (IOB = 0.40), isopropyl myristate (IOB = 0.18), tri- Glyceryl 2-ethylhexanoate (IOB = 0.36), pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate (IOB = 0.35), cetyl octanoate (IOB = 0.13), trimethylolpropane triisostearate (IOB = 0.0). 20) Ester oil such as glyceryl triisostearate (IOB = 0.18), diisostearyl malate (IOB = 0.28), olive oil (IOB = 0.16), castor oil (IOB = 0.42), Vegetable oils such as macadamia nut oil (IOB = 0.17), isostearic acid (IOB = 0.43), Maleic acid (IOB = 0.42) fatty acids such as, decyl tetradecanol (IOB = 0.21), include higher alcohols such as oleyl alcohol (IOB = 0.28). If the IOB is out of this range, moldability is poor and impact resistance such as drop strength is deteriorated, or smooth usability cannot be obtained.

The polar oil component (c) of the present invention includes a polar oil component (a) having a viscosity at 30 ° C. of 5 mPa · s to less than 500 mPa · s, and a polar oil component having a viscosity of 500 mPa · s to 20000 mPa · s (b ). Only polar oils with a viscosity at 30 ° C. of 5 mPa · s or more and less than 500 mPa · s are inferior in impact resistance, and only polar oils with a viscosity of 500 mPa · s or more and 20000 mPa · s or less have poor usability. Become. By using the polar oil component (a) and the polar oil component (b) in combination, the dispersibility is improved and a product having excellent impact resistance is obtained. The most preferred combination of polar oil (a) and polar oil (b) is a combination of glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate and diisostearyl malate.
In the present invention, examples of the polar oil (a) having a viscosity at 30 ° C. of 5 mPa · s or more and less than 500 mPa · s include, for example, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexylate, cetyl octoate, glyceryl diisosporearate, and pentaerythrate tetraoctanoate. Examples include lityl and trimethylolpropane trioctanoate. Examples of the polar oil (b) having a viscosity of 500 mPa · s or more and 20000 mPa · s or less include diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate, and castor oil.

  The blending ratio of the polar oil component (a) and the polar oil component (b) is preferably polar oil component (a): polar oil component (b) = 1: 9 to 4: 6 (mass ratio), more preferably 2: 8 to 3: 7.

  The total amount of (c) polar oil in the present invention is 5 to 20% by mass, preferably 8 to 15% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic base. (C) When the blending amount of the polar oil is less than 5% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic base, molding defects or impact resistance is poor. Moreover, when it exceeds 20 mass%, smooth usability cannot be obtained and it cakes.

  In the present invention, by adjusting the final oil phase viscosity to 10 to 2000 mPa · s, more preferably 200 to 1000 mPa · s, it is possible to further improve impact resistance and increase smoothness during application. it can.

  Components of the oil phase part include components such as a surfactant, an antiseptic, a drug, an ultraviolet absorber, a moisturizer, a bactericide, and a resin in addition to the above (c) polar oil.

  Examples of the solvent used in the present invention include ethanol, hexane and the like, and among these, ethanol is particularly preferable.

  In the solid powder makeup cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, surfactants, preservatives, drugs, ultraviolet absorbers, moisturizers, bactericides, resins, and the like, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Other powders can be blended. However, it may be any component applicable to general cosmetics, and is not limited to the above components.

  Among these, the surfactant is blended in order to prevent the cosmetic powder from aggregating and causing a system change in the slurry obtained by mixing the powder cosmetic base with the solvent. A liquid at room temperature having a high dispersion effect is preferable. Examples of preferable surfactants include sorbitan sesquiisostearate and sorbitan monoisostearate. The compounding quantity of surfactant is 0.1-3.0 mass% in cosmetics base whole quantity.

  Examples of the humectant include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, sorbitol, diglycerin, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene polypropylene glycol, and the like.

  Examples of other powders include organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, polyalkyl methacrylate powder, silicic anhydride powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, urethane / silicic anhydride mixed powder, and the like. As the shape of the powder, it is preferable to add a spherical shape because the usability at the time of coating is improved.

The solid powder makeup cosmetic of the present invention is produced by the following method.
First, powder parts such as pearlescent pigments, extender pigments, preservatives, etc. are mixed with a Henschel mixer, and then an oil phase part containing uniformly dissolved polar oil, surfactant, etc. is added to the powder part and mixed uniformly. Use as a base.
Next, this powdery cosmetic base is mixed with a solvent to form a slurry. Although the amount of the solvent varies depending on the composition of the powder and the blending amount of the oil, it is preferable that the viscosity is such that air can be easily extracted from the slurry and filled into a container. 0.5 to 1.5 times (mass) of the base material is preferable. When the amount of the solvent is too large, drying takes a long time, cracking after drying, loss of contents, and impact resistance are also reduced. Furthermore, when the slurry is poorly spread into a container or the like at the time of filling, it can be uniformly filled by applying a light vibration to such an extent that the filling does not spill. Thus, after filling the container or the like, the solvent is removed and solidified. The solvent is removed by, for example, natural drying, warm drying, hot air drying, vacuum suction, or the like. From the viewpoint of production efficiency, it is preferable to remove the solvent by vacuum suction. These production methods are called wet molding methods, and details thereof are described in JP-B-57-60004 and JP-B-61-54766.

  The solid powder makeup cosmetic obtained by the above method can be used as, for example, eye shadow, face color, foundation and the like.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. A compounding quantity is the mass% with respect to the cosmetics base whole quantity. The present invention is not limited to the following examples.

Examples 1-7, Comparative Examples 1-5 (wet molding)
Using the cosmetic bases according to the formulations shown in Tables 1 to 4, solid powder makeup cosmetics were prepared by the following method.
In the table, Timilon Splendid Gold (Merck) is used as the titanium oxide-silicic acid composite-coated mica titanium, which is a pearlescent pigment, and Chimica Copper (Engelhard) is used as the iron oxide-coated mica titanium. -Duochrome RB (manufactured by Engelhard) was used as the koji-coated mica titanium, and Xicopearl Fantasticosa (manufactured by BASF) was used as the silicic acid-coated aluminum bengal.

[Production method]
The ingredients comprising the formulations described in Tables 1 to 4 are uniformly mixed to obtain a powder cosmetic base. Ethanol is added to this with 60 mass% with respect to a powder cosmetic base, and it mixes uniformly and makes it a slurry-like thing. This is filled in an inner dish and compression molded using a molding head, and at the same time, ethanol is sucked from the back surface of the molding head. After suction, the molded product is dried at 37 ° C. for half a day.

Comparative Examples 6 to 11 (dry molding)
Using the cosmetic bases according to the formulations shown in Tables 5 to 6, solid powder makeup cosmetics were prepared by the following method. Comparative Examples 6 to 8 have the same formulation as Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, but the manufacturing method is different. Comparative Examples 9 to 11 have the same formulation and the same manufacturing method as Comparative Examples 3 to 5.

[Production method]
After mixing the powder part consisting of the formulations described in Tables 4 to 5 with a Henschel mixer, add the uniformly dissolved oil phase part to the powder part, uniformly grind and pulverize, press-fill into an inner dish and apply eye shadow Got.

About the obtained solid powder makeup cosmetics of each Example / Comparative Example, ease of molding / filling, visual pearly gloss, visual glossiness, smoothness during application, impact resistance The sex was compared.
Regarding the pearly luster of the appearance by visual inspection, the glossiness at the time of visual application, and the smoothness at the time of application, a solid powder makeup cosmetic as a test product was applied to the skin of 10 female panels and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. I was asked. The results are shown in Tables 1 to 6.

<Evaluation of ease of molding and filling>
A: A solid powder makeup cosmetic can be obtained without problems in molding and filling.
○: The molding surface has some cracks and uneven color, but is not noticeable.
Δ: The nozzle is clogged during filling, and cracks and color unevenness are conspicuous on the molding surface.
X: It cannot be molded and a solid powder makeup cosmetic cannot be obtained.

<Evaluation of pearly luster of appearance>
A: A very glossy feeling is felt.
○: A sufficient glossiness is felt.
Δ: Not very glossy.
X: A glossy feeling is not felt.

<Evaluation of glossiness during application>
A: A very glossy feeling is felt.
○: A sufficient glossiness is felt.
Δ: Not very glossy.
X: A glossy feeling is not felt.

<Evaluation of smoothness during application>
A: Very smooth.
○: Smooth enough.
Δ: Not very smooth.
X: Not smooth.

<Evaluation of impact resistance>
About impact resistance, it was based on the test which drops a test article from the height of 30 cm, and it evaluated by how many times it fell by the fall. The evaluation criteria are as follows.
◎: 11 times or more ○: 7 to 10 times △: 5 to 6 times ×: 4 times or less

  As can be seen from Tables 1 to 6, the solid powder makeup cosmetic of the present invention is easy to mold and fill, is very good in appearance and gloss and smoothness during application, and excellent in impact resistance. It turns out that it is a thing. In addition, Examples 3, 5, and 7 in which spherical powders such as polyalkyl methacrylate powder and organopolysiloxane elastomer powder were blended were excellent in smoothness during coating. In the table, the appropriate amount is an amount in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by mass.

Examples 8 to 10, Comparative Examples 12 and 13
A solid powder makeup cosmetic was prepared by changing the blending amount of the glossy pigment to 30 to 90% by mass and evaluated in the same manner as described above. The results are shown in Table 7.

Examples 11-15
A solid powder makeup cosmetic was prepared by changing the oil content to 5 to 16% by mass (6 to 17% by mass when combined with the surfactant), and evaluated in the same manner as described above. The results are shown in Table 8.

Claims (3)

(A) 50 to 85% by mass of a pearlescent pigment based on the total amount of the base;
(B) extender pigment,
(C) Two or more polar oil components having an IOB of 0.1 to 0.5 in the organic conceptual diagram, the polar oil component having a viscosity of 5 mPa · s or more and less than 500 mPa · s at 30 ° C., and a viscosity of 500 mPa · s. s to 20,000 mPa · s polar oil,
One or two polar oils having a viscosity of 5 mPa · s or more and less than 500 mPa · s selected from glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexylate, cetyl octanoate, glyceryl diisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, and trimethylolpropane trioctanoate The polar oil component having a viscosity of 500 mPa · s or more and 20000 mPa · s or less is one or more selected from diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate, castor oil,
The oil phase part whose blending amount of total polar oil is 5 to 20% by mass in the cosmetic base,
A solvent is added to the cosmetic base material containing, and then the slurry is filled into a container using a nozzle, and then the solvent is removed .
A method for producing a solid powder makeup cosmetic, wherein the viscosity of the oil phase part in the cosmetic base is adjusted to 200 to 1000 mPa · s .   The polar oil having a viscosity of 5 mPa · s or more and less than 500 mPa · s at 30 ° C. in the component (c) is glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, and the polar oil having a viscosity of 500 mPa · s or more and 20000 mPa · s or less is used. The method for producing a solid powder makeup cosmetic according to claim 1, which is diisostearyl malate. A solid powder makeup cosmetic produced by the method according to claim 1 or 2 .