KR20140113726A - Colour changing composition with uv filter(s) - Google Patents

Abstract

A color change composition for care and / or make-up of a keratinous material, comprising at least the following in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) a microcapsule containing releasable colorant (s)
- a core comprising one organic material,
- at least one laminate coating surrounding the core,
One or more polymers,
One or more colorants, and
Advantageously, one or more lipid-based materials
≪ / RTI >
, ≪ / RTI >
b) at least 3 wt.%, preferably at least 5 wt.%, more preferably at least 8 wt.%, advantageously at least 10 wt.% of a polyol, glycol, C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohol and An aqueous phase comprising at least one compound selected from a mixture thereof and water, and
c) one or more UV filters.

Description

COLOR CHANGING COMPOSITION WITH UV FILTER (S) < RTI ID = 0.0 >

The present invention relates in particular to a color-changing composition comprising at least one UV-blocking agent and optionally other active agent (s) useful in the care, hygiene and / or make-up of keratin materials.

In particular, the color changing composition according to the present invention may be applied to any type of cosmetic composition such as foundation, face powder, eye shadow, concealer product, blusher, lipstick, lip balm, lip gloss, lip pencil, eye pencil, eyeliner, mascara, Care products such as makeup products, skin colorants and care creams, 'BB' products (Blemish Balm products that can cover defects), tinted creams or sunscreen products, preferably foundations or ' BB " product. The color changing composition according to the present invention may be a liquid, a solid or a powder.

The compositions of the present invention are particularly keratinous substances, especially compositions intended to be applied to the skin, more particularly facial skin, such as facial care or makeup products for the face.

In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is mascara.

In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a lip product, in particular lip gloss, lip balm or lipstick.

Cosmetic compositions, especially foundations, are typically used to mask skin imperfections such as redness and / or marks, as well as providing aesthetic color to the skin. In this regard, a number of formulations have been developed to date.

In this respect, there is an increasing interest in cosmetic products that provide color variations for external factors, such as, for example, shear forces.

In general, this object is achieved by including a microencapsulated colorant in the cosmetic composition, wherein upon application onto the skin, the composition provides the expected color change. More particularly, the change in hue is provided by the colorant-containing microcapsules, which, upon rupture by application of a mechanical force, release the entrapped colorant into the composition and change its color. Mechanical action, such as rubbing, spreads the topical composition and promotes penetration into the skin. The instant color change of the composition provides a visual aesthetic effect.

Different types of trapped colorants, more particularly pigment-containing microcapsules, are already available. These mainly depend on the capture type and / or encapsulation type of the substance (s).

Thus, as pigments encapsulated by microcapsules in acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers, mention may be made, for example, of ethyl acrylate / methacrylic acid sold by Tagra and described in WO-A-01/35933 Microcapsules containing a copolymer of an acid ammonium salt can be mentioned. Also, at TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES, the names BLACKCAP1 ^ⓒ , YELLOWCAP1 ^ⓒ , REDCAP1 ^ⓒ , BLACKCAP3 ^ⓒ , YELLOWCAP3 ^ⓒ , REDCAP3 ^ⓒ Commercially available encapsulated pigments may be mentioned.

As the pigment encapsulated in microspheres in cellulose derivatives, for example, sphere containing cellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (marketed by Induchem under the name Unisphere ^ⓒ ) can be mentioned.

Pigments encapsulated by microcapsules in polymers of polyesters, polyaminomethacrylates, polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, shellac type and mixtures thereof, in particular those described in Biogenics, US Application US 2011/0165208 , And those marketed by Biogenics under the name Magicolor ^ⓒ can be mentioned.

As other pigments encapsulated by microcapsules, mention may also be made of those disclosed in JP2011-79804 (DAITO), and pigment-encapsulated double-layer microcapsules containing at least three of the following may also be mentioned: (a ) Mannitol, (b) hydrogenated lecithin, (c) polymethyl methacrylate, (d) cellulose and (e) shellac.

This double-layer microcapsule is one of the microcapsules preferably used according to the present invention and does not contain an uncoloured core but instead contains a colored inner layer containing the above-mentioned components, Are all mixed together and granulated.

However, in some colorant-containing microcapsules, when applied to different environments and conditions, it may be difficult to keep the colorant permanently for a long period of time. This is the case for pigments, oil-soluble dyes, and water-soluble dyes. Thus, it was found that some of the microcapsules described in the patents and publications bleed gradually over time during the prolonged release of the coloring agent or at elevated temperatures. Color bleed can be achieved through contact with moisture and / or other ingredients commonly found in cosmetic formulations, such as alcohols or glycols, surfactants, silicones, oils, preservatives, Occurs when the pigment travels through or away from the microspheres / microcapsules. Leaching or bleeding of colorants in cosmetic compositions can impair the long-term visual effects of cosmetics both in the container and on the substrate.

Furthermore, some pigment-containing microcapsules may give a lower coverage effect than expected.

Furthermore, some pigment-containing microcapsules are destroyed immediately upon application and sudden color changes appear, so that the intermediate stage of such color change is not recognized or the color gradation can not be adjusted.

Furthermore, some pigment-containing microcapsules may have some stability problems with cosmetic compositions and related solvents / ingredients.

Further, some pigment-containing microcapsules may have the appearance of gray giving an unattractive color in the bulk of the cosmetic composition.

If the topical composition comprises more than one ultraviolet screening agent and optionally other active agent (s), ensure that these ultraviolet screening agents and activator (s) penetrate deep enough into the skin and / or spread broadly over the skin to be effective .

Unfortunately, consumers can not easily gauge the area of skin to which the desired active (s) are applied, and often do not want to spend time applying such compositions on their skin. Thus, at the end of application, the locally applied amount of the active agent may not be uniformly distributed on the skin and / or penetrate deep into the skin.

Finally, some microcapsules may provide an uncomfortable and / or undesirable feel when the cosmetic formulation comprising it is applied on the keratinous material.

Accordingly, there is a need to provide a cosmetic composition comprising colorant-containing microcapsules with improved bleed resistance. In this respect, there is a demand for colorant-containing microcapsules in which the capsules have excellent shatter resistance and exhibit improved bleed resistance. In cosmetic compositions, where the dye is not permanently retained, this may impair the long-term visual effect of the cosmetic.

It is also desired to provide an adjustable cosmetic composition by changing the method or intensity of application of the desired coloring or gradation pattern on the skin, or by using microcapsules containing different coloring agents.

In addition, it is required to provide a stable cosmetic composition with various related solvents / components.

It is also desirable to provide cosmetic compositions in which the microcapsules are not visible or visible within the bulk of the composition according to the desired appearance.

Also, there is a need for a cosmetic composition containing pigment-encapsulated microcapsules that does not cause an uncomfortable feeling to the user upon application.

There is also a need to provide a cosmetic composition containing pigment-encapsulated microcapsules which, upon application, is rapidly and rapidly degraded to provide a coloring composition without any granular aspect while providing a feeling of liquid on the skin. In particular, the composition may exhibit different hue or color gradients depending on the rubbing strength.

Also, there is a need to provide pigment-encapsulated microcapsules having sufficient hardness to be blended in industrial processes without modification. Advantageously, the hardness of the microcapsules is not significantly reduced during the manufacturing process.

It is also required that the users expand the gesture of application and thus stimulate focusing on the uniformity of the transmission and distribution of the ultraviolet screening agent (s) and optionally other active agent (s) on the skin.

It is also desirable to provide a cosmetic composition comprising colorant-containing microcapsules and an active agent (s) with a color indication for delivery of the active agent (s) that ensures that all desired skin areas are covered with the active agent (s) .

Furthermore, it has been found that some microcapsules during storage have altered visual appearance, i.e., color fading, to the cosmetic composition. Under certain conditions, the composition, i. E. The physiologically acceptable medium, turns yellowish.

The stability of the microcapsules in the bulk is still optimized and, in particular, the bulking effect of the bulk, which can occur in the presence of microcapsules, in particular the bulking effect of the bulk, is reduced, while retaining the color of the bulk, .

It is also desired to provide microcapsules, and also cosmetic compositions in which the visual appearance of the composition itself is not altered during storage. This technical problem has been solved by a composition according to the invention comprising one or more special UV filters.

Surprisingly and advantageously, the composition according to the invention meets the requirements of the prior art.

Accordingly, in accordance with one of the above aspects, the subject matter of the present invention is a color-changing composition for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, comprising at least the following in a physiologically acceptable medium:

a) a microcapsule containing releasable colorant (s)

- a core comprising one organic material,

- at least one laminate coating surrounding the core,

One or more polymers,

One or more coloring agents,

And advantageously a laminate coating comprising one or more lipid-based materials

, ≪ / RTI >

b) at least 3 wt.%, preferably at least 5 wt.%, more preferably at least 8 wt.%, advantageously at least 10 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition of a polyol, a glycol and a C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohol, An aqueous phase comprising at least one compound selected from a mixture thereof, and water,

c) one or more UV filters.

Preferably, the microcapsules comprise two or more layers, preferably one or more organic inner layers and one organic outer layer of a different color.

Preferably, the core comprises, as the organic material, a monosaccharide-polyol selected from one or more monosaccharides or derivatives thereof, particularly advantageously from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, preferably mannitol.

Preferably, the laminate coating surrounding the core comprises polysaccharides and derivatives, preferably one type of saccharide or several types of saccharide (s), preferably several types of saccharides, including at least D-glucose units (S) selected from the group consisting of starch and derivatives, especially cellulose and derivatives thereof, more preferably starch and derivatives thereof, including those containing one or more hydrophilic polymers (s).

Preferably, the microcapsules preferably include one or more lipid-based materials having amphipathic properties, such as lecithin, especially hydrogenated lecithin.

Advantageously, the core corresponds to from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 10% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules.

Advantageously, the colorant (s) is present in an amount of from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, based on the microcapsule; In particular from 50% to 75% by weight.

Advantageously, the microcapsules have a size of from 50 μm to 800 μm, in particular from 60 μm to 600 μm, in particular from 80 μm to 500 μm, in particular from 100 μm to 400 μm.

In particular, the microcapsule comprises at least the following:

An inner core consisting of a monosaccharide-polyol, preferably mannitol,

- two or more layers of different colors,

Preferably one or more hydrophilic polymers selected from polysaccharides or derivatives, more preferably from starches or derivatives, and

Advantageously one or more lipidic substances, preferably amphipathic compounds, more preferably phospholipids, even more preferably phosphoacylglycerols such as hydrogenated lecithin.

Preferably, the microcapsules containing the releasable colorant (s) are multi-layer microcapsules containing releasable colorant (s), including:

An uncoloured core of one organic material, and

A multilayer coating surrounding the core, the multilayer coating comprising at least one organic inner layer and one organic outer layer of different color, each capturing at least one colorant.

According to one embodiment, each layer of microcapsules contains a specific blend of one or more specific colorants or colorant (s).

According to another embodiment, the outer layer of the microcapsule contains a specific blend of one or more specific colorants or colorant (s).

In particular, the colorant is preferably a pigment selected from the group consisting of metal oxides.

According to one embodiment, a layer of microcapsules containing only only titanium dioxide (TiO ₂₎ as a coloring agent.

The composition may comprise from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 2% to 10% by weight, of microcapsules, based on the weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or make-up of keratinous substances, comprising applying the composition according to the invention onto the keratinous substance, in particular on the skin.

Advantageously, the microcapsules are capable of being modified in the presence of said aqueous phase comprising at least one compound selected from polyols, glycols and C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof, and water.

Advantageously, the microcapsules inside the composition are destructible under pressure upon application to the keratinous material.

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to mean a medium which is particularly suitable for applying the product of the present invention to a keratinous material, in particular skin, more particularly facial skin.

The "physiologically acceptable medium" includes the aqueous phase used according to the present invention.

For purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" is intended to include skin, mucous membranes such as lips, nails and eyelashes. Said skin and lips, especially facial skin, are most particularly considered in the present invention.

As evidenced by the following examples, the compositions according to the present invention have proved advantageous in several respects.

Encapsulation of the colorant prevents the formation of the cosmetic composition and undesired re-aggregation of the pigment during long-term storage.

Because the microcapsules of the present invention have the ability to expand or soften upon contact with the aqueous phase as defined below, they are advantageously deformable upon application to the keratinous material and consequently provide a soft feel to the user. Furthermore, its small size contributes to the coating not producing any uncomfortable or undesirable, grainy feel of the particles.

However, the microcapsules of the present invention are sufficiently soft to rupture when very weakly rubbed or pressed on the skin to release its contents, but nevertheless, during the preparation of the corresponding color changing composition, even during industrial processes and storage And is durable enough to prevent the coating from collapsing.

In addition, since the microcapsules of the present invention do not cause discoloration of the equipment during the manufacturing process, it is possible to use conventional equipment for manufacturing the composition of the present invention.

Thus, the microcapsules of the present invention can be used in a wide variety of applications, as they will shield the inherent hue of the encapsulated colorant, increase the stability of such colorant to degradation, and prevent undesirable release of the encapsulated colorant into the composition during the manufacturing process and long- Because of this, I am especially interested.

Finally, the composition of the present invention also has the advantage of meeting consumer expectations in terms of cosmetic products.

In another aspect, the subject matter of the present invention is also directed to a cosmetic method comprising at least the step of applying at least a part of the composition according to the invention onto a keratinous substance, in particular on the surface of the skin.

In the present invention, "color changing composition" means a composition in which the hue before application differs from the hue after application, and this difference is visually observable.

In particular, this color changing composition may be related to the color-difference DELTA E of the CIE Lab system 1976 (pre-and post-application DELTA E) values.

The above-mentioned? E is defined by the following equation:

Wherein L ₁ , a ₁ , b ₁ are variables in the colorimetric space of the first color (pre-application composition), and L ₂ , a ₂ , b ₂ are variables in a second color And composition after homogenization).

The value can be measured using a spectrophotometer or Chrosmasphere (for compositions applied on the skin).

The color changing composition according to the present invention may be characterized by having a pre-application / post-application ΔE of more than 1, especially 2 or more, preferably 3 or more.

Colored microcapsules

As used herein, the term "microcapsule " refers to a spherical microcapsule containing one or more laminate coatings that capture one or more colorants and surrounds the core chemically different from the coating. Microcapsules are separate from microspheres, which consist of spherical homogeneous matrices.

In the present invention, "at least one laminated coating" is a multilayer coating, preferably an organic multilayer coating.

The term "multi-layer microcapsule" means a microcapsule consisting of a core surrounded by a coating based on one or more inner layer (s) and one outer layer. The one or more inner layer (s) forming the multilayer coating of the multi-layer microcapsules and the single outer layer of the microcapsules may be comprised of the same or different wall-forming organic compound (s).

Microcapsules according to the present invention comprise a core termed a so-called "inner core" surrounded by a coating based on one or more layer (s). In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsule is a " multilayer " microcapsule comprising one or more inner layers and one outer layer. The one or more inner layer (s) forming the multilayer coating of multilayer microcapsules and the single outer layer of the microcapsules may be comprised of the same or different wall-forming organic compound (s).

In certain embodiments, the inner and outer layers are comprised of the same wall forming organic compound, and the core is surrounded by a single coating layer.

In one embodiment, the outer layer does not include any colorant. In another embodiment, the outer layer comprises at least one colorant.

The term "wall-forming organic compound" means an organic compound or a combination of two or more different organic compounds as defined herein, which constitute a component of the layer (s) of the microcapsule. In a preferred embodiment, the 'wall-forming organic compound' comprises one or more polymers.

The term "colorant" refers to synthetic or natural dyes, inorganic pigments, such as metal oxides, or lakes, and any combination thereof, selected from organic pigments such as any of the well known FD & do. Thus, colorants useful in accordance with the present invention may be oil-soluble or oil-dispersible, or may have a limited solubility in water.

In a preferred embodiment, the colorant is an inorganic pigment, more preferably a metal oxide.

Generally, colorant microcapsules having an average particle size of about 800 탆 or less in diameter are used in accordance with the present invention. Preferably, the average particle size is less than about 400 microns in diameter of the colorant microcapsules for skin care application. Advantageously, said average particle size is within the range of about 10 [mu] m to 350 [mu] m in diameter. Preferably, the average particle size may be between 50 μm and 800 μm in diameter, in particular between 60 μm and 600 μm, in particular between 80 μm and 500 μm, in particular between 100 μm and 400 μm.

Particularly, the average particle size is in the range of 50 to 1000 Mesh (approximately 400 탆 to 10 탆), particularly 60 to 200 Mesh (approximately 250 탆 to 75 탆) as measured by a sieving test or observed under a microscope, Lt; / RTI >

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight of microcapsules, based on the total weight of the composition.

In particular, in the skin care composition according to the present invention, the amount of the microcapsule may be in the range of 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably 0.2 wt% to 3 wt% with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Particularly, in the makeup composition according to the present invention, the amount of the microcapsule is 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably 1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably 2% by weight to 10% Lt; / RTI >

In certain embodiments, the encapsulated colorant (s) is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 2% Lt; / RTI > to 12% by weight of the encapsulated pigment.

The microcapsules may be incorporated into the cosmetic formulation, generally at the last stage of formulation and after the filtration step, if present, in order to prevent microcapsules from breaking down. Preferably, the microcapsules according to the invention are added and homogeneously mixed at a temperature below 50 ° C. They are mixed gently using paddles rather than homogenizers.

The microcapsules may be prepared by any of several methods known to those skilled in the art of coating or encapsulation, including pelleting, granulating, coating, and the like. For example, the microcapsules may be prepared by methods including mixing and drying the compound (activator, pigment, polymer, solvent) to form a capsule as disclosed in WO01 / 35933 and WO2011 / 027960, Granulation and coating by drying, or by fluidized bed techniques that have been used in the food and pharmaceutical industry for a long period of time to coat and encapsulate the ingredients. As an example, WO2008 / 139053 can be mentioned, which relates to the preparation of an ellipsoidal multilayer capsule comprising concentric layers of sugar cores and pharmaceutically active agents. After fixation on the core of the pharmaceutically active agent is achieved by impregnation, pulverization or projection, the first layer is dried before application of the second layer.

Fluid bed processes are described, for example, in Teunou et al. (Fluid-Bed Coating, Poncelet, 2005, D. Food Science and Technology, Boca Raton, FL, United States) Volume 146 Issue Encapsulated and Powdered Foods, Pages 197-212). A particular feature of the fluidized bed process is that the core induces coated particles that are well encapsulated, compared to spray drying, which induces the matrix with the core material to be randomly dispersed in the polymer.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules are obtained by a fluidized bed process.

In this embodiment, preferably one or more layers of microcapsules are obtained by a fluidized bed process.

In certain embodiments, the outer layer is obtained by a fluidized bed process.

In yet another particular embodiment, the at least one inner layer is obtained by a fluid process.

Most preferably, all layers are obtained by a fluidized bed process.

Those skilled in the art are aware of how to adjust the amount of air, the amount of liquid and the temperature to enable the capsule to be reproduced in accordance with the present invention.

Preferably, the fluidized bed process carried out in accordance with the present invention includes a Wurster process and / or a tangential spray process. Such a process enables the production of spherical capsules having a core surrounded by at least one circumferential layer, in contrast to the pelletizing process.

When the entire process of producing the layer surrounding the core of the microcapsule according to the present invention is carried out by a fluidized bed process, the microcapsule layer is advantageously regular, concentric and has a uniform thickness.

Different preparations of capsules according to the present invention will be presented later in this specification.

I. a) core

The core is made of at least an organic material. The size of the core is preferably in the range of 500 nm to 150 μm in diameter.

Preferably, the core is in solid and / or crystalline form at room temperature.

In certain embodiments, the organic material is selected from organic materials having high water solubility. Preferably, the core is water-soluble or water-dispersible.

In certain embodiments, the core is uncolored, i. E., It does not contain the colorant material.

In certain embodiments, the core is based on only one compound. Such compounds are organic and more preferably natural compounds.

In a preferred embodiment, the core is a monosaccharide-polyol selected from sugar alcohols, preferably monosaccharide-polyols, advantageously from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol.

In certain embodiments, the core comprises mannitol and more preferably exclusively mannitol.

In an alternative embodiment, the core contains at least a polymer selected from mannitol and one or more additional components, preferably a hydrophilic polymer. In particular, such cores may comprise hydrophilic polymers and mannitol selected from cellulose polymers, starch polymers and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the cellulosic polymer is carboxymethylcellulose and the starch polymer is unmodified natural starch, for example corn starch.

The core may consist of a seed (or crystal) of one of the materials.

The core is preferably present in an amount of 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 4 to 40% by weight, in particular 5 to 30% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules It is contained in quantity.

The mannitol is preferably contained in an amount of 2% by weight to 100% by weight, preferably 5% by weight to 100% by weight, in particular 100% by weight, based on the total weight of the core.

The mannitol is preferably present in an amount of 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 4 to 40% by weight, in particular 5 to 30% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules It is contained in quantity.

I. b) outer layer (s) or coating

As disclosed above, the core is advantageously surrounded by a coating, or preferably an outer layer (s) comprising one or more inner layers and one outer layer. In the latter case, these layers preferably extend concentrically with respect to the core.

The layer (s) are preferably organic, i.e. contain at least one organic compound as the wall-forming material. Preferably, the inner and / or outer layer (s) comprise at least one polymer, particularly a hydrophilic polymer.

The polymer (s)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more polymer (s). In certain embodiments, the polymer (s) is a hydrophilic polymer (s).

Such hydrophilic polymer (s) are soluble or dispersible in water or in particular in alcohol compounds selected from lower alcohols, glycols, polyols.

For purposes of this patent application, the term "hydrophilic polymer" means a (co) polymer capable of forming hydrogen bond (s) with an alcohol compound selected from water or especially lower alcohols, glycols and polyols. In particular, polymers are considered to be capable of forming O-H, N-H and S-H bonds.

In certain embodiments of the present invention, the hydrophilic polymer can be expanded or softened upon contact with an alcohol compound selected from water or especially lower alcohols, glycols, polyols.

The hydrophilic polymer (s) can be selected from the following polymer (s):

- acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or their salts and esters, in particular products sold under the name Versicol F or Versicol K from Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8 from Ciba-Geigy, and products of the Synthalen K type Polyacrylic acid, and salts of polyacrylic acids, especially sodium salts (corresponding to INCI name sodium acrylate copolymers), more particularly crosslinked sodium polyacrylates (INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer and caprylic / capric triglyceride ) (Sold under the name Luvigel EM);

- copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide (sold in the form of sodium salt thereof, as Reten under the name Hercules Inc.), sodium polymethacrylate (sold under the name Darvan No. 7 by Vanderbilt), and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids Sodium salt (sold under the name Hydagen F by Henkel);

- polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; The most particularly preferred copolymers according to the present invention are acrylate / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ -alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer), such as those available from Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol ETD 2020, and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2;

- copolymers of alkyl acrylate / alkyl methacrylic acid copolymers and their derivatives, especially their salts and their esters, such as ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and a low content of methacrylic acid ester having a quaternary ammonium group (Evonik Degussa, Lt; / RTI > under the trade name EUDRAGIT RSPO);

- AMPS (partially neutralized, highly crosslinked polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid with aqueous ammonia) (commercially available from Clariant);

- AMPS / acrylamide copolymers such as the products sold under the name Sepigel or Simulgel by the company SEPPIC, in particular copolymers of the INCI name polyacrylamide and C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7;

- polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (cross-linked or non-cross-linked), such as those available from Clariant to Aristoflex HMS;

Polysaccharides and derivatives, such as:

- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

Cellulose polymers and derivatives, preferably selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives, in addition to alkylcelluloses; In a preferred embodiment, the cellulosic polymer is carboxymethylcellulose;

- finally modified, starch polymers and derivatives; In a preferred embodiment, the starch polymer is a natural starch;

- optionally modified polymers of natural origin such as galactomannan and derivatives thereof such as konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, gum arabic, acacia Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride, and xanthan derivatives modified with gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, sodium methyl carboxylate groups;

Alginate and carrageenan;

-Glycine aminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;

Mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof;

- copolymers of vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; Polyvinyl alcohol;

And mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention, in particular the outer layer (s), comprises a hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and derivatives, acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts and esters thereof, .

(Meth) acrylic acid and derivatives, especially (poly) (alkyl) (meth) acrylates and derivatives, preferably alkyl acryl / alkyl methacrylic acid copolymers and And most preferably a copolymer of a low-content methacrylate ester having ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and a quaternary ammonium group (sold under the trade name EUDRAGIT RSPO by Evonik Degussa).

The polysaccharides and derivatives are preferably selected from chitosan polymers, chitin polymers, cellulosic polymers, starch polymers, galactomannan, alginates, carrageenan, mucopolysaccharides and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the outer layer (s) do not comprise microcrystalline cellulose.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polysaccharides and derivatives thereof are preferably at least one type of saccharide or several types of saccharide (s), preferably several types of saccharides, especially at least D- Those containing glucose unit (s), preferably starch polymers, cellulosic polymers, and derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules comprise starch and derivatives thereof, in particular mono- and / or copolymers of corn starch, cellulose and derivatives thereof, methacrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid esters, or (alkyl) acrylic acid and / or At least one hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylic acid and (meth) acrylic acid.

Starches usable in accordance with the present invention are typically derived from vegetable raw materials such as rice, soy, potato or corn. The starch may be unmodified or modified starch (similar to cellulose). In a preferred embodiment, the starch is unmodified.

Preferred mono- and / or copolymers of methacrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid esters are those in which the copolymer of methyl methacrylate and ethyl acrylate has a molecular weight of 750 to 850 kDa.

Cellulose derivatives include, for example, alkali cellulose carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), cellulose esters and ethers, and amino cellulose. In certain embodiments, the cellulosic is carboxymethylcellulose (CMC).

In a preferred embodiment, the capsules comprise at least a starch derivative, in particular a copolymer of corn starch, polymethyl methacrylate, (alkyl) acrylic acid and / or (alkyl) methacrylic acid and derivatives thereof, Esters, and / or cellulose derivatives.

Preferably, the microcapsules contain polymer (s) that are not cross-linked.

The polymer (s) may be present in one or several layer (s).

In another embodiment, the polymer (s) may be present in the core.

The microcapsules may contain the polymer (s) in the core and / or in the layer (s).

In certain embodiments, the polymer (s) are present in the core and layer (s).

In one embodiment, the core contains at least starch and / or a cellulose derivative as polymer (s). When the starch is contained in the core, it represents the main component of the core as described above, i.e. the weight of the starch is greater than the amount of each of the other compounds of the core.

The polymer may correspond to 0.5 to 20% by weight of the microcapsules, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight of the microcapsules.

The different layers forming the coating may be based on the same or different polymers. Advantageously, it can consist of the same polymer.

In contrast, the layer can be advantageously colored differently.

These different hues can be obtained using different colorants, but can also be obtained using different concentrations of one or more colorants if the colorant is the same for the two layers.

In certain embodiments, the outer layer contains one or more coloring agents.

In another embodiment, the outer layer does not contain any colorant.

The colorant (s)

As mentioned above, "coloring agents" include any organic or inorganic pigments or colorants used in cosmetic formulations approved by CTFA and FDA for use in cosmetics.

Thus, the term "colorant" is intended to encompass organic pigments, such as synthetic or natural dyes, inorganic pigments, such as metal oxides, or rake, such as cochinealcarmin, barium, strontium, calcium or dyes selected from any well known FD & Aluminum-based ones, and any combination (combination) thereof. Such colorants are detailed below.

In certain embodiments, the colorant may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

In another embodiment, useful colorants according to the present invention may be oil soluble or oil dispersible, or have a limited solubility in water.

In a preferred embodiment, the colorant is an inorganic pigment, more preferably a metal oxide.

Advantageously, the colorant of the multi-layer microcapsules is a primary metal oxide or composite oxide selected from iron oxide, titanium dioxide, aluminum oxide, zirconium oxide, cobalt oxide, cerium oxide, nickel oxide, tin oxide or zinc oxide, Iron oxide selected from red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide or black iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.

The layer (s) may also contain rake corresponding to an organic colorant fixed to the substrate. Such rake (s) are advantageously selected from the following materials, and mixtures (s) thereof:

- cochineal carmin;

Organic pigments of azo type, anthraquinone type, indigoid type, xanthene type, pyrene type, quinoline type, triphenylmethane type and fluororan type colorant; Of these organic pigments, those known under the trade names may be mentioned: D & C Blue n ° 4, D & C Brown n ° 1, D & C Green n ° 5, D & C Green n ° 6, D & C Orange n ° 4, D & C Orange n ° 5, D & C Orange n ° 10, D & C Orange n ° 11, D & C Red n ° 6, D & C Red n ° 7, D & C Red n ° 17, D & C Red n ° 21, D & C Red n ° 28, D & C Red n ° 30, D & C Red n ° 31, D & C Red n ° 33, D & C Red n ° 34, D & C Red n ° 36, FD & C Green n ° 3, FD & C Red n ° 40, FD & C Yellow n ° 5, FD & C Yellow n ° 6, D & C Yellow n ° 10, D & C Yellow n ° 11, FD &

Sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, and the like of an acid coloring agent such as an azo type, anthraquinone type, an indigoid type, a zetene type, a pyrene type, a quinoline type, a triphenylmethane type, Of said water-insoluble salts, said colorant may comprise at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group.

The organic rake may also be protected by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate.

Among the above organic rac, especially those known under the trade names may be mentioned: D & C Red n ° 2 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n ° 3 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n ° 4 Aluminum lake, D & Red n ° 6 Barium lake, D & C Red n ° 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red n ° 6 Strontium lake, D & C Red n ° 6 Sodium lake, D & Red n ° 7 Barium lake, D & C Red n ° 7 Calcium lake, D & C Red n ° 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D & C Red n ° 7 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n ° 8 Red n ° 9 Barium lake, D & C Red n ° 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red n ° 9 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n ° 10 Barium lake, D & Red n ° 19 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n ° 21 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n ° 21 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n ° 22 Aluminum lake, , D & C Red n ° 27 Barium lake, D & C Red n ° 27 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 27 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n ° 28 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n ° 28 Sodium lake, D & C Red n ° 30 Calcium lake, D & , D & C Red n ° 36 lake, D & C Red n ° 40 Aluminum lake, D & C Blue n ° 1 Aluminum lake, D & C Green n ° 3 Aluminum lake, D & n ° 5 Zirconium lacquer, D & C Yellow n ° 10 Aluminum lake, D & C Yellow n ° 5 Barium lake, D & C Yellow n ° 5 7 Zirconium lake, D & C Yellow n ° 10 Aluminum lake, FD & C Blue n ° 1 Aluminum lake, FD & C Red n ° 4 Aluminum lake, FD & lake

Chemical substances corresponding to each of the above-mentioned organic coloring agents are mentioned in " International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionnary and Handbook " Edition 1997, pages 371-386 & 524-528 of " The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association " The contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

In a preferred embodiment, the rake (s) are selected from the group consisting of carnine and an azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, Insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium of the colorant, and that such colorants may include one or more carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the rake (s) are selected from the water insoluble salts of carmin and sodium, calcium, aluminum, and mixtures thereof of cochineal.

As rake containing carmin, the following commercially available ones can be mentioned: CARMIN COVALAC W 3508, CLOISONNE RED 424C and CHROMA-LITE MAGENTA CL4505.

The water insoluble aluminum salt is preferably selected from the group consisting of FDC Yellow N ° 5 aluminuim lake, FDC Blue N ° 1 aluminuim lake, FDC Red N ° 40 aluminuim lake, FDC Red N ° 30 aluminuim lake, FDC Green N ° 5 aluminuim lake, And mixtures thereof. As such compounds containing inorganic rake, mention may be made especially of the following: INTENZA FIREFLY C91-1211, INTENZA AZURE ALLURE C91-1251, INTENZA THINK PINK C91-1236.

The water-insoluble calcium salt is preferably selected from Red N ° 7 calcium lacquer. Among the compounds containing inorganic rake as mentioned above, mention may be made especially of the following commercially available products: INTENZA MAGENTITUDE C91-1234, INTENZA HAUTE PINK C91-1232, INTENZA RAZZLED ROSE C91-1231, INTENZA AMETHYST FORCE C91-7231, INTENZA PLUSH PLUM C91-7441, INTENZA ELECTRIC CORAL C91-1233, FLORASOMES-JOJOBA-SMS-10% CELLINI RED-NATURAL and mixtures thereof.

The water-insoluble sodium salt is preferably selected from Red N ° 6 sodium lake and Red N ° 28 sodium lake, and mixtures thereof. As the compounds containing such inorganic lake, mention may especially be made of the following commercially available products: INTENZA MANGO TANGO C91-1221 and INTENZA NITRO PINK C91-1235.

In a preferred embodiment, the colorant is an inorganic colorant.

In a preferred embodiment, the colorant is a metal oxide. Such metal oxides are preferably selected from iron oxides, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

The color-changing composition of the present invention may comprise a mixture of two or more colorants individually encapsulated in microcapsules and / or a combination of one or more colorants encapsulated in multi-layer microcapsules.

In this particular embodiment, each layer of the microcapsules may contain one or more specific colorants or a specific combination of colorant (s).

In this particular embodiment, the color-changing composition of the present invention comprises two or more microcapsules of the present invention having different hues.

Those skilled in the art are aware of how to select a combination of colorant and colorant to produce the desired color effect or color change.

As mentioned above, the microcapsules of the present invention preferably contain at least titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide, preferably at least titanium dioxide, in their coatings.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules of the present invention preferably contain at least titanium dioxide and iron oxide in their coating.

In certain embodiments, the outer layer of the microcapsule more preferably contains titanium dioxide as the sole coloring agent.

In this particular embodiment, the outer layer of the microcapsule contains titanium dioxide as the sole colorant and the composition according to the invention is not tinted, wherein the "uncoloured" or "non-tinted" composition Quot; means a composition that is transparent or white.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises uncoloured microcapsules, i.e. the outer layer is white or transparent, and if the outer layer is transparent, the visible inner layer is white.

For purposes of the present invention, the term "transparent composition" refers to a composition that transmits at least 40% of light without scattering at a wavelength of 750 nm, i.e., a composition having a scattering angle of light less than 5, more preferably, it means.

The transparent composition can transmit at least 50%, in particular at least 60%, in particular at least 70%, of light at a wavelength of 750 nm.

The transmittance measurement is performed using a Varian Cary 300 Scan UV-visible spectrophotometer according to the following protocol:

- pouring the composition into a square-side spectrophotometer cuvette with a side length of 10 mm;

Maintaining the sample of the composition in a thermostatted chamber at 20 < 0 > C for 24 hours;

The light transmitted through the sample of the composition is measured by scanning a wavelength in the range of 700 nm to 800 nm with a spectrophotometer (the measurement is in the transmission mode);

Measure the percentage of light transmitted through the sample of the composition at a wavelength of 750 nm.

When the transparent composition is placed in front of a black line 0.01 m in thickness, 2 mm in diameter, drawn on a piece of white paper, the above line can be seen; In contrast, in the case of an opaque composition, i.e., a composition that is not transparent, the above line can not be seen.

In certain embodiments, the outer layer of the microcapsule contains an organic pigment or iron oxide.

The colorant is present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably from 50% by weight to 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules.

In certain embodiments, the microcapsules are present in an amount ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules Containing metal oxides selected from iron oxides, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the titanium dioxide may be present in an amount of 28 to 80% by weight, preferably 30 to 75% by weight, more preferably 30 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the microcapsules.

In particular, the iron oxide may be present in an amount of 5 to 75% by weight, preferably 8 to 65% by weight based on the total weight of the microcapsules. In certain embodiments, the iron oxide is present in an amount of greater than 15 wt%, preferably greater than 30 wt%, especially 40 wt% to 65 wt%, based on the total weight of the microcapsules.

In a preferred embodiment, in one or more layers, and preferably in all layers, the colorant is the major component, i.e. it comprises at least 40 wt% of the layer (s), preferably at least 75 wt% , And more preferably 95% by weight of the layer (s).

In a preferred embodiment, the average thickness of the titanium dioxide layer ranges from 5 [mu] m to 150 [mu] m.

Lipid material

The inner and / or outer layer (s) may also advantageously include one or more lipid-based materials.

In certain embodiments of the present invention, such lipid based materials may have amphipathic properties, i. E. Have non-polar and polar portions.

In lipid-based materials as described above may include those which are selected from one or more or several C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ chain fatty acid (s), such as stearic acid, palmitic acid, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, such a fatty acid chain is hydrogenated. Ultimately, these fatty acid chains can become nonpolar parts of lipid-based materials.

Such lipid-based materials are preferably selected from phospholipids. These phospholipids are preferably selected from phosphoacyl glycerol, more preferably lecithin, in particular hydrogenated lecithin.

The lipid-based material may correspond to 0.05 to 5% by weight of the microcapsule, in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight of the microcapsule.

By changing the method or intensity of application onto the skin by combining three or more compounds (e.g., sugar alcohols, polymers, lipid-based materials) in different hard and / or water soluble microcapsules, the colorant- It is possible to adjust the desired coloring or gradation pattern.

Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the multilayer coating contains at least starch and one or more lipid-based materials, preferably lecithin, as a polymer.

In an advantageous embodiment, the microcapsules according to the invention comprise at least one monosaccharide or derivative thereof and at least one polysaccharide or derivative thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules include a core comprising a monosaccharide derivative and a polysaccharide (or derivative thereof) comprising one type of saccharide or several types of saccharide (s), preferably several types of saccharides ≪ / RTI >

In a more preferred embodiment, the microcapsules preferably comprise at least one D-glucose unit (s) as the saccharide (s) and a core comprising a monosaccharide polyol selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol (Or derivatives thereof). ≪ / RTI >

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules contain at least three colorants in different layers.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsule additionally comprises a lipid based material selected from phospholipids, advantageously phosphoacyl glycerol, especially lecithin.

In certain embodiments, the core contains mannitol, a starch polymer and a cellulose derivative, and optionally a lipid-based material. In such a case, the starch polymer is the major component, i.e. the weight of the starch is greater than the amount of each of the mannitol, cellulose derivative and lipid based material of the core.

Referring to Figure 1, in a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides color-changing microcapsules having a size advantageously in the range of 50 [mu] m to 800 [mu] m, preferably 60 [mu] m to 500 [mu] m, :

i) The core (A) preferably has a size in the range of 500 nm to 150 탆 in diameter, preferably contains no coloring agent, preferably contains one or more sugar alcohols, advantageously mannitol, erythritol, xylitol A core (A) comprising at least one organic core selected from monosaccharide-polyols selected from sorbitol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof;

ii) at least one colorant, preferably iron oxide (s), and

A binder selected from one or more polymers, one or more lipid-based materials, and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof

A first layer (B) surrounding said core;

iii) titanium dioxide particles, and

A binder selected from one or more polymers, one or more lipid-based materials, and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof

(C) surrounding said first layer (B), said second layer (C) having a thickness of from 5 탆 to 500 탆, said second layer

iv) optionally,

At least one colorant, and

A binder selected from one or more polymers, one or more lipid-based materials, and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof

A third layer (D) surrounding the second layer (C);

(meth) acrylic acid and derivatives, in particular (poly) (alkyl) (meth) acrylates and derivatives, and preferably alkyl (meth) acrylates and derivatives, preferably cellulose derivatives, in particular cellulose ethers and cellulose esters, (C), comprising at least one wall-forming polymer selected from polysaccharides such as acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylic acid copolymers and derivatives thereof, surrounding or, if present, the third layer (D) (E). ≪ / RTI >

As an example of commercially available microcapsules used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of the following microcapsules manufactured by Korea Particle Technology KPT under the following trade names:

KPT's Magic 60-WP0105 contains titanium dioxide, mannitol, hydrogenated lecithin, synthetic fluorophosphite, red 30 lake, zea mays (corn) starch, tin oxide, Pink spherical microcapsules having a mesh size of 200 mesh;

- Magic 50-BW0105 from KPT: An off-white spherical microcapsule containing mannitol, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, hydrogenated lecithin, titanium dioxide, corn starch and 60-200 mesh particle size.

The microcapsules suitable for the present invention may be formulated in a composition according to the invention, preferably at elevated temperature, for example at 40 DEG C or higher, for example in an oven at 45 DEG C for 1 month, preferably 2 months, It is stable for 3 months, or 15 days in an oven at 60 ° C.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules according to the invention exhibit suitable softening kinetics.

Preferably, the hardness of the microcapsules is advantageously from 5 to 50 grams, more preferably from 6 to 20 grams, and even more preferably from 7 to 10 grams, for at least 3 hours after contact with the other compounds of the formulation. Such hardness corresponds to industrial processes for the production of cosmetic compositions comprising such microcapsules.

Such values of softening reaction rate and hardness make it possible to provide aesthetic microcapsules as well as overall aesthetic compositions.

In particular, the compositions can induce different hues or color gradients depending on the rub strength. The composition may advantageously exhibit a high chromaticity C * (as measured by CIE Lab system 1976).

Water phase

The microcapsules of the present invention are contacted with an aqueous phase comprising water and at least one compound selected from polyols, glycols, C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof, in order to soften upon application to keratin materials Is required. Such an aqueous phase is particularly advantageous in imparting and / or improving deformability to the microcapsules of the present invention.

Advantageously, such an aqueous phase acts as an expanding or softening agent for the microcapsules without destroying them. The microcapsule is not inert when placed on such an aqueous phase, but it is either inexpensive (its diameter increases significantly with random softening of the microcapsules), or the microcapsules are significantly softened without increasing the diameter, The ductility is better than that in the case of application and more easily broken.

The aqueous phase used in the compositions according to the invention can act on the rate of softening of the microcapsules and more particularly make it possible to obtain a good balance between the rate of softening reaction and the hardness.

As a result, the aqueous phase is particularly advantageous for softening the microcapsules suitable for the present invention, in a suitable manner, since the aqueous phase plays a role in the rate of softening reaction of the microcapsules.

The aqueous phase comprises water and, where appropriate, a water-soluble solvent.

In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound which is liquid at room temperature and which is water-miscible (miscible with water at 25 ° C and at 50% by weight or more at atmospheric pressure).

Water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions of the present invention may also be volatile.

As mentioned, the compositions of the present invention contain an aqueous phase comprising water and at least one compound selected from polyols, glycols, C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof. It may also contain C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

The compositions of the present invention contain microcapsules as defined above and an aqueous phase comprising water and at least one compound selected from polyols, glycols, C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohols and mixtures thereof, and water. Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least one compound selected from polyols, glycols and mixtures thereof and water.

The aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount of at least 3 wt%, preferably at least 5 wt%, more preferably at least 8 wt%, advantageously at least 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 99% by weight, preferably from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition .

Advantageously, water is present in an amount of at least 30 wt%, preferably at least 40 wt%, more preferably at least 50 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. Generally, water is present in an amount ranging from 30 wt% to 90 wt%, preferably 40 wt% to 85 wt%, and more preferably 50 wt% to 80 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the aqueous phase preferably acts as a swelling or softening agent for the microcapsules, without causing colorant leakage or destroying it.

The compositions of the present invention generally comprise at least one compound selected from polyols, glycols, C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% % To 45% by weight and more preferably in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 45% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase suitable for the present invention comprises one or more C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohols.

In another preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase suitable for the present invention comprises at least one polyol or glycol.

In another preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase suitable for the present invention comprises at least one C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohol and at least one polyol or glycol.

Monoalcohol or lower alcohol

Suitable monoalcohols or lower alcohols for use in the present invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type compounds having only one -OH functional group.

Advantageously, the C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohol is a non-cyclic monoalcohol, more preferably a C ₂ -C ₅ monoalcohol and preferably a C ₂ -C ₃ monoalcohol.

The lower monoalcohol which is advantageously suitable for formulation of the composition according to the invention is in particular an alcohol of 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, Ethanol.

The composition of the present invention is present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight to 15% by weight, advantageously 3% by weight to 10% (S) of from 3 wt% to 8 wt%, preferably from 4 wt% to 6 wt%.

In a preferred embodiment the composition of the present invention comprises ethanol and / or isopropanol and more preferably at least ethanol in a total concentration of 2 to 15% by weight and more preferably 3 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition .

Lower monoalcohols such as ethanol can be advantageously used in a number of ways in the make-up and / or care of keratin material (s).

Such compounds are useful for providing the user with a refreshing feeling, especially when applying the composition of the present invention on the skin.

Furthermore, such a refreshing feeling as to give the user comfort is also advantageously able to activate blood circulation in the skin, especially in the skin around the eyes, which forms a well-developed blood vessel area, if felt. Thus, the refreshing feeling associated with the application of these lower monoalcohols reduces the puffiness and dark circles present in the portion of the face, due to the high vascular distribution and thinness in that portion of the face.

Application of the lower monoalcohol can also advantageously avoid application of other coolants (usually eye-stimulating ingredients) such as menthol, ethylmenthan-carboxamide, menthyl lactate, and menthoxypropanediol around the eyes .

In addition, since some cosmetic ingredients are particularly soluble in the hydroalcoholic medium, it is desirable to treat compositions containing color-changing microcapsules in a physiological medium comprising a lower alcohol.

Furthermore, lower monoalcohols such as ethanol can dissolve active agents, particularly keratolytic agents such as, for example, salicylic acid and its derivatives.

Because some microcapsules of the prior art are rapidly degraded in the hydroalcoholic medium, it has been desired to treat stable compositions comprising color-changing microcapsules in a hydroalcoholic medium.

Polyols and glycols

For purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising two or more free hydroxyl groups. The term "polyol" according to the present invention does not include the monosaccharide-alcohol disclosed above.

Preferably, the polyols according to the invention are present in liquid form at room temperature.

The polyol / glycol is a humectant or wetting agent.

This may represent an effect on the stability of other components of the composition, in particular as compared to microcapsules of the prior art.

Therefore, it is required to treat a stable composition containing color-changing microcapsules in a physiological medium comprising a polyol and / or glycol, since the composition exhibits a remarkable moisturizing or wetting effect.

This technical problem is solved by the composition according to the present invention. A polyol suitable for use in the present invention is a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, or alkynyl group having two or more -OH functional groups on each alkyl chain, particularly having three or more -OH functional groups, Type compound.

Polyols which are particularly advantageously suitable for formulation of the compositions according to the invention have preferably 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms and more preferably 2 to 16 carbon atoms, advantageously 2 to 10 carbon atoms, Lt; / RTI >

In another embodiment, a polyol suitable for use in the present invention may advantageously be selected from polyethylene glycol.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may comprise a mixture of polyols.

Advantageously, the polyol is preferably selected from C ₂ -C ₈ and more preferably C ₃ -C ₆ polyhydric alcohols. Wherein the polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylol propane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, (Especially from 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as mono-, di-, and triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, glycerol and its derivatives, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, glycol ethers Or a tripropylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl ether, a mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the polyol is preferably selected from the group consisting of glycerol, glycols, preferably propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerine, caprylyl glycol, mono-alkyl (C1-C4) ether, di- or is selected from triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof-or tripropylene glycol, or an alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄₎ ethers of mono-, di-.

In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylol propane, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol and polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol and glycols selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

In one particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least butylene glycol, glycerol, or mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least glycerol.

In one particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises glycerol as the sole polyol.

Advantageously, the composition may comprise from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, weight percent glycerol, based on the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition may comprise from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, weight percent of butylene glycol based on the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition may comprise from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, weight percent propylene glycol based on the total weight of the composition.

When the composition comprises glycerol and one or more glycols, the weight ratio of glycerol / glycol is advantageously 1/2 to 3/2, preferably 2/3 to 1/1, more preferably about 1.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one glycol selected from glycerol and propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, caprylyl glycols, the weight ratio of glycerol / glycol advantageously between 1/2 and 3 / 2, preferably 2/3 to 1/1, more preferably about 1.

The compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise at least 10% by weight, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight, in particular from 10% to 40% by weight, of the polyol (s) and / or glycols, May include one C ₂ -C ₃₂ polyol and / or glycol.

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably from 12% by weight to 50% by weight, in particular from 13% by weight to 40% by weight, more preferably from 14% by weight to 35% by weight, %, More preferably from 15 wt% to 30 wt%, of the polyol (s) and / or glycol.

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably from 12% by weight to 50% by weight, in particular from 13% by weight to 40% by weight, more preferably from 14% by weight to 35% by weight, %, More preferably from 15 wt% to 30 wt%, of the polyol (s) and / or glycol.

Preferably, the polyol is a C ₂ -C ₃₂ polyol and / or glycol.

Advantageously, the weight ratio of polyol and glycol / composition is 1/10 to 1/2, preferably 1/8 to 1/3, more preferably 1/6 to 1/4. More particularly, the weight ratio of polyol and glycol / aqueous phase is 1/10 to 1/2, preferably 1/8 to 1/3, more preferably 1/6 to 1/4.

Sunscreen / anti-UV

Sunscreens or UV filters are important skin-care products used to prevent photoaging and skin cancer. There are two groups of sunscreen agents: UVA ultraviolet screening agents that block UV radiation at wavelengths in the range of about 320 to 400 nm, and UVB ultraviolet screening agents that block radiation at wavelengths in the range of 290 to 320 nm.

The composition according to the invention comprises hydrophilic and / or lipophilic organic and / or inorganic UV sunscreen components active in the UV-A and / or UV-B regions.

In particular, the UV sunscreen ingredients according to the present invention may have a solubility index in the range of 8.0 to 9.5. The UV sunscreen component has an excellent plasticizer function.

Advantageously, the UV sunscreen agent according to the invention has a molecular weight in the range of 150 to 500 g / mol and may contain an electronic resonator which binds to the hydrophobic moiety and the benzene nucleus or polar moiety.

Preferably, the UV filter or UV ultraviolet screening agent is an organic UV filter.

Said hydrophilic and / or lipophilic organic UV sunscreen ingredients particularly include dibenzoylmethane derivatives; Cinnamic acid derivatives; Salicylic acid derivatives; Benzophenone derivatives; ?,? - diphenyl acrylate derivatives; Aminobenzoic acid derivatives such as p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives, benzylidene camphor and derivatives; And mixtures thereof.

As examples of the organic UV sunscreen ingredients, those indicated by the following INCI names may be mentioned:

- para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives:

- PABA,

- ethyl PABA,

- ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA,

- ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, especially those marketed by ISP under the trade designation "Escalol 507"

- glyceryl PABA,

- dibenzoylmethane derivatives:

-Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, especially those sold under the trade designation "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-LaRoche,

- isopropyl dibenzoylmethane,

- Salicylic acid derivatives:

- homosalate, marketed by Rona / EM Industries under the trade designation "Eusolex HMS"

- ethylhexyl salicylate, commercially available from Haarmann and Reimer under the trade designation "Neo Heliopan OS"

- dipropylene glycol salicylate, marketed under the tradename "Dipsal" from Scher,

- TEA salicylate, commercially available from Haarmann and Reimer under the trade designation "Neo Heliopan TS"

- cinnamic acid derivatives:

- ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, especially those marketed under the trade name "Parsol MCX" from Hoffmann-LaRoche,

- isopropylmethoxy cinnamate,

- isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, those sold under the trade designation "Neo Heliopan E 1000 " from Haarmann and Reimer,

- cinoxate,

- DEA methoxycinnamate,

- diisopropylmethyl cinnamate,

- glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxy cinnamate,

-?,? - diphenyl acrylate derivatives:

- octocrylene, especially those sold under the trade designation "Uvinul N539" by BASF,

- etocrylene, in particular sold under the trade designation "Uvinul N35" by BASF,

- benzophenone derivatives:

-Benzophenone-1, commercially available under the trade designation "Uvinul 400" from BASF,

- benzophenone-2, commercially available under the trade designation "Uvinul D50" from BASF,

- benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold under the trade designation "Uvinul M40" by BASF,

-Benzophenone-4, sold under the trade designation "Uvinul MS40" by BASF,

- benzophenone-5,

-Benzophenone-6, commercially available from Norquay under the trade designation "Helisorb 11"

- Benzylidene camphor derivatives:

- terephthalylidene dicamper sulphonic acid,

- 4-methylbenzylidene camphor,

- and mixtures thereof.

The organic UV filter is selected from aminobenzoic acid derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives,?,? - diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are selected from the group consisting of benzylidene camphor derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives,?,? - diphenyl acrylate derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred UV sunscreen ingredients (as referred to as kamsul (Ecamsule) in addition) terephthalic ylidene dikaem flops acid sold under the name Mexoryl SX ^® particularly by L'Oreal, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl and butylene dimethacrylate loam Salicylate, and mixtures thereof.

Especially ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name UVINUL MC 80 ^® by BASF, ethyl hexyl salicylate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN OS ^® by SYMRISE and octocrylene sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN 303 ^® by SYMRISE Can be mentioned.

It is also possible to mention terephthalylidene dicamperesulfonic acid, which in particular allows the visual appearance of the microcapsules suitable for the invention during storage, and accordingly the visual aspect of the composition according to the invention, to not change. Such a sunscreen agent allows to specifically protect the selective fogging of the microcapsules according to the invention.

The compositions according to the present invention may contain from 0.1% to 30%, such as from 0.5% to 20%, such as from 1% to 15% by weight, and for example greater than 1% Sunscreen ingredients.

In one exemplary embodiment, the composition comprises a microcapsule and at least one UV sunscreen ingredient in an amount of from 0.20 to 10, such as from 1 to 9.5, preferably from 3 to 9, [inorganic filler / UV sunscreen ingredients] Weight ratio.

Advantageously, the UV filter (s) stabilize the spreading of the material from the microcapsules to the composition, and the composition remains stable.

Cosmetic media and additional ingredients

The composition according to the invention is acceptable for cosmetics, i.e. it contains a physiologically acceptable medium which is suitable for application on human keratin materials and which is non-toxic.

By " cosmetically acceptable "in the sense of the present invention is meant a composition having a pleasant appearance, odor or feel.

A "physiologically acceptable medium" is generally adjusted to the intended form so that the composition is conditioned.

In particular, the nature and amount of the components are adapted, for example, depending on whether the composition is formulated as a solid, liquid or powder.

Depending on the purpose and form of the skin care or makeup formulation, the composition of the present invention may contain, in addition to the colorant-containing microcapsules, additional cosmetic ingredient (s) such as volatile and nonvolatile silicone or hydrocarbon oils, surfactants, fillers, May include those selected from gelling agents, thickeners, film formers, polymers, preservatives, silicone elastomers, self-tanning agents, additional non-entrapped colorants, activators, UV filters, fragrances, pH adjusting agents and mixtures thereof .

The pH of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably in the range of 6.5 to 7.5. The preferred base for adjusting the pH is triethanolamine.

Advantageously, said additional additional cosmetic ingredient (s) is present in an amount of from 0.1% to 70% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

It is a routine practice for those skilled in the art to adjust the type and amount of additives present in the composition according to the present invention so that the desired cosmetic properties of the present invention are not affected.

Some of these common ingredients are detailed below.

Liquid fatty phase

Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more lipid phases which are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and in particular one or more oils as mentioned below.

In particular, the presence of one or more oils is advantageous in so far as it promotes application of the composition and imparts sedation.

In accordance with the present invention, the term "oil" means a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

A suitable oil phase for preparing anhydrous cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may include hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

These may be of animal, plant, inorganic or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment variant, an oil of plant origin is preferred.

The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating in less than one hour upon contact with the skin or lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil which is liquid at room temperature. More particularly, the volatile oil has a rate of evaporation of 0.01 to 200 mg / cm2 / min (including limits).

The term "non-volatile oil" means oil remaining on the skin or keratinous fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More particularly, non-volatile oils have a rate of evaporation of less than 0.01 mg / cm2 / min.

To measure the rate of evaporation, 15 g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested was placed in a crystallization dish of 7 cm diameter, and a large chamber of about 0.3 m 3, temperature-controlled at a temperature of 25 ° C and humidity- On the balance. The liquid was pumped with a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference numeral 8550 < RTI ID = 0.0 > N, rotating at 2700 rpm). The mass of the oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rate is expressed in mg of the oil evaporated per unit area (cm 2) and time unit (minute).

For purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising one or more fluorine atoms.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing predominantly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Advantageously, the anhydrous compositions of the present invention may comprise from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, of the oil (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

a) Volatile oils

Volatile oils include hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C ₈ -C ₁₆ branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-penta Methyl heptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example oils commercially available under the trade names Isopar® or Per Methyl®, or in particular linear C ₈ -C ₁₄ alkanes.

Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, such as volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x ^10-6 m2 / s), and in particular from 2 to 10 silicon Atoms, especially those containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms (these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms). As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of dimethicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctylsilane, Specific mention may be made of polysiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase of the present invention is present in an amount of from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the liquid fatty phase, Oil (s).

b) non-volatile oils

Non-volatile oils may be selected, in particular, from non-volatile hydrocarbon based, fluoro and / or silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned in particular include:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,

- vegetable oils of vegetable origin such as phytosteryl esters such as phytosteryl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), glycerol fatty acids Triglycerides formed from esters, in particular wherein said fatty acids may have a chain length in the range of C ₄ to C ₃₆ and in particular C ₁₈ to C ₃₆ ; These oils are preferably linear or branched, and saturated and unsaturated; These oils are in particular heptane or octane triglyceride, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, candle nut oil, watch oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, , Peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camellina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flaxseed oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil It is also possible to use a vegetable oil such as pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St John's Wort oil, mono oil, hazelnut oil, apricot seed oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Palm Oil, Blackcurrant Oil, Kiwi Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Pistachio Oil, Winter Pumpkin Oil, Pumpkin Or a mixture thereof, or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as Stearineries Dubois, for example, by the action of a vegetable oil, a vegetable oil, a quinone oil, a musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, Which may be marketed or marketed under the trade names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene Such as Parleam, and squalene,

Synthetic ethers of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether;

- synthetic esters such as those of the formula R ₁ COOR _{2 wherein} R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid moiety containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ comprises from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, oil of the terrain represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, with the proviso that, R ₁ + R ₂ ≥ 10 Im). The esters are especially esters of alcohols and fatty acids, such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl Stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleate, hexyl laurate, neopentanecarboxylic acid esters such as isodecyl neo Pentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, and isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityltetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

Esters of diol dimers and discrete dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338,

- copolymers of diol dimer and discrete dimers and esters thereof, such as dirinoleyl diol dimer / dirinoleate dimer copolymers and esters thereof, such as Plandool-G,

Copolymers of polyols and discrete dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA or dininoleic acid / butanediol copolymers,

Fatty alcohols having a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol, which are liquid at room temperature,

- C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

- the two alkyl chains possibly being the same or different dialkyl carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate which is marketed by Cognis under the trade name Cetiol CC,

An oil of high molar mass, especially a molar mass in the range of from about 400 to about 2000 g / mol, especially from about 650 to about 1600 g / mol. As oils of high molar mass that can be used in the present invention, linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number of 35 to 70 such as, for example, pentaerythrityl tetrapellargonate, hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl- Stearates, aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, branched C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ fatty alcohols or esters of fatty acids such as those described in patent US 6 491 927 and pentaerythritol esters, Glyceryl tris (2-decyl) tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2-tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate; Phenylsilicones such as Belsil PDM 1000 (MM = 9000 g / mol) from Wacker, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), PDMS containing alkyl or alkoxy groups at the ends of the silicon chain and / or pendant To 24 carbon atoms), phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and 2-phenylethyl Trimethylsiloxysilicate, dimethicone or phenyltrimethicone (viscosity is 100 cSt or less), and mixtures thereof; And also mixtures of these various oils may be mentioned, and

- a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise one or more non-volatile oils selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin;

Hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin;

Synthetic ethers of 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- synthetic esters such as those of the formula R ₁ COOR _{2 wherein} R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid moiety containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ contains from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, oil of the terrain represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, with the proviso that R ₁ + R ₂ ≥ 10 Im);

Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters;

Fatty alcohols having a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain comprising 12 to 26 carbon atoms, liquid at room temperature;

The two alkyl chains possibly being the same or different are dialkyl carbonates;

- high molar mass of oil; And

- a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase of the present invention may comprise at least 40 wt.%, Preferably at least 60 wt.%, Or 100 wt.% Of the nonvolatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.

As mentioned, the color changing composition according to the present invention comprises at least 3 wt%, preferably at least 5 wt%, more preferably at least 8 wt%, advantageously at least 10 wt% water, C ₂ -C ₈ At least one compound containing at least one -OH functional group selected from monoalcohols, glycols and polyols.

The composition according to the invention may be anhydrous or non-anhydrous.

In the anhydrous composition according to the present invention, "at least one compound selected from a polyol, a glycol, a C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohol, and a mixture thereof" is contained in an amount of not less than 3% by weight, preferably not less than 5% , More preferably at least 8 wt%, advantageously at least 10 wt%, and the composition is free of water.

By "water free" is meant that the composition comprises less than 3% water, preferably less than 1% water, more preferably less than 0.5% water, especially no water.

Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be introduced by the components of the composition, which may in particular contain the balance thereof.

In the non-anhydrous composition according to the invention, "at least one compound selected from polyols, glycols, C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof" advantageously comprises at least 10% by weight, Is present in an amount of 12 wt% or more, more preferably 15 wt% or more.

Tanning agent

For purposes of the present invention, the expression "skin self-tanning agent ", when contacted on the skin, is capable of producing a color reaction with a free amine function such as an amino acid, peptide or protein present in the skin ≪ / RTI >

Other features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will be set forth in the description which follows.

The self-tanning agent is generally selected from certain monocarbonyl or polycarbonyl compounds such as isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartardealdehyde, glutaraldehyde , Erythrulose, pyrazoline-4,5-dione derivatives as described in patent applications FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxy-acetone (DHA), and patent application EP 903 342 4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-one as described. Preferably DHA can be used.

DHA can be used in the form of a free and / or encapsulated lipid such as, for example, liposomes described in particular in patent application WO 97/25970.

The self-tanning agent (s) is generally present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition Lt; / RTI >

Silicone elastomer

In the present invention, the composition may comprise one or more silicone elastomers. Any suitable silicone elastomer may be used in accordance with the present invention. Suitable silicone elastomers include, for example, hydrophilic emulsifying silicone elastomers such as emulsified silicone elastomers such as polyglycerolated silicone elastomers and / or alkoxylated silicone elastomers, and non-emulsified silicone elastomers. The silicone elastomer as described above may be spherical or non-spherical.

Polyglycerolated silicone elastomer

Suitable polyglycerolated silicone elastomers include, for example, polyglycerolated compounds containing diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen atom linked to silicon and ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst , ≪ / RTI > crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes.

The polyglycerolated silicone elastomers that may be used include, but are not limited to, the generic name "KSG-710 "," KSG-810 ", "KSG-820 "," KSG- Are included. Suitable polyglycerolated silicone elastomers are also described in U.S. Pat. 11 / 085,509 (published as U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0220728), the entire disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.

Hydrophilic emulsifying silicone elastomer

The term "hydrophilic emulsified silicone elastomer" means a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain in addition to the polyglycerolized chain as described above.

In particular, the hydrophilic emulsified silicone elastomer may be selected from polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomers.

Suitable polyoxyalkylene elastomers are described in U.S. Pat. U.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986, U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 5,412,004, U.S. Pat. No. 5,837,793 and U.S. Pat. Patent No. 5,811,487.

Suitable polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", "KSG-30", "KSG-31", "KSG- Quot; KSG-320 ", " KSG-340 ", and "X-226146 ", or" KSG- Quot; DC9010 "and" DC9011 ".

Suitable hydrophilic emulsifying silicone elastomers are also described in U.S. Pat. Patent application no. 11 / 085,509 (published as U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0220728).

Non-ionized silicone elastomer

The term "unsubstituted" refers to an elastomer that does not contain a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.

The non-derivatized silicone elastomer preferably comprises a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen-linked diorganopolysiloxane and an ethylenically unsaturated group linked to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; Or a dihydrogenopolysiloxane containing a hydroxyl end group and at least one hydrogen-bonded diorganopolysiloxane linked to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin compound; Or a bridged coupling reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing a hydroxyl end group and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; Or thermal crosslinking reaction of an organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; Or an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes via high-energy radiation, such as gamma, ultraviolet or electron beams.

Suitable non-volatile silicone elastomers are described in patent applications JP61-194009 A, EP0242219 A, EP0295886 A and EP0765656 A.

Suitable non-ionic silicone elastomers that may be used include, but are not limited to those sold under the names "DC 9040 "," DC 9041 ", "DC 9509 "," DC 9505 ", and "DC 9506" .

Suitable non-volatile silicone elastomers are also disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 11 / 085,509, March 22, 2005 (published as U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0220728).

The non-ionized silicone elastomer may also be, for example, U.S. Pat. May be present in the form of an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with a silicone resin, in particular a silsesquioxane resin, as described in patent 5,538,793, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Such elastomers are commercially available from Shin-Etsu under the names "KSP-100 "," KSP-101 ", "KSP-102 "," KSP-103 ", & .

Other elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes in the form of powders include hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups (especially sold under the name "KSP-200" from Shin-Etsu); Mixed silicon powder functionalized with a phenyl group (especially sold under the name "KSP-300" from Shin-Etsu).

The silicone elastomer may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 40% By weight, more preferably 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, still more preferably 0.5% by weight to 25% by weight, still more preferably 1% by weight to 20% by weight, still more preferably 1% by weight to 15% And even more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight of the composition of the present invention.

Film forming agent

Silicone polyamide

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone polyamide.

The silicone polyamide of the composition is preferably a solid at room temperature (25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The silicone polyamides of the compositions of the present invention are polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type, such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6 051 216 and US- 981 < / RTI > 680. In the present invention, the silicone polymer can belong to the following two families:

(1) a polyorganosiloxane comprising at least two amide groups located in the polymer chain, and / or

(2) a polyorganosiloxane comprising at least two amide groups located on a graft or branch.

A) In the first variant, the silicone polymer is a polyorganosiloxane as defined above in which the amide unit is located in the polymer chain.

The silicone polyamide may more particularly be a polymer comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following general formula I:

(O) - YC (O) -, when G represents -C (O) -NH-Y-NH-, G 'represents C (O) and G represents -NH-C , G 'represents -NH-,

2) R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ , which may be the same or different, represent a group selected from the following:

Branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C ₁ to C ₄₀ , preferably C ₁ to C ₄₀ , saturated or unsaturated, optionally containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms in its chain and possibly partially or totally substituted by fluorine atoms, Hydrocarbon group,

- a C ₆ -C ₁₀ aryl group optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,

A polyorganosiloxane chain, optionally containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms,

3) the group X, which may be the same or different, represents a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkylenediyl group, possibly containing one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms in its chain;

4) Y is a saturated or unsaturated C ₁ to C ₅₀ linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene divalent group which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms And may contain one or more of the following atoms or atoms as substituents: fluorine, hydroxyl, C ₃ to C ₈ cycloalkyl, C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkyl, C ₅ to C ₁₀ aryl, C ₁ to C ₃ hydroxyalkyl and C ₁ to C ₆ aminoalkyl groups, optionally substituted with _one to three C ₁ to C ₃ alkyls, or

5) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:

[Wherein,

- T is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₃ to C ₂₄ trivalent or tetravalent C ₄ to C ₂₄ trivalent, optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain and possibly containing one or more atoms selected from O, N and S. A hydrocarbon group, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al,

- R ⁸ is a linear or branched, preferably linear, branched or cyclic, hydrocarbon radical, optionally containing one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups, A C ₁ -C ₅₀ alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain;

6) n is an integer in the range of 2 to 500 and preferably 2 to 200, and m is an integer in the range of 1 to 1000, preferably 1 to 700, and more preferably 6 to 200.

In the present invention, 80% of the R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ groups of the polymer are preferably selected from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. In another embodiment, 80% of the R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ^6, and R ⁷ groups of the polymer are methyl groups.

In the present invention, Y may furthermore represent various divalent groups, including one or two free valencies, which optionally form bonds with other moieties of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group selected from:

a) linear C ₁ to C ₂₀ and preferably C ₁ to C ₁₀ alkylene groups,

b) branched C ₃₀ to C ₅₆ alkylene groups, possibly including rings and non-conjugated unsaturation,

c) a C ₅ -C ₆ cycloalkylene group,

d) a phenylene group optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkyl groups,

e) a C ₁ to C ₂₀ alkylene group containing 1 to 5 amide groups,

f) a C ₁ to C ₂₀ alkylene group containing at least one substituent selected from the group consisting of hydroxyl, C ₃ to C ₈ cycloalkane, C ₁ to C ₃ hydroxyalkyl and C ₁ to C ₆ alkylamine groups,

g) a polyorganosiloxane chain of the formula:

or

Wherein R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , T and m are as defined above.

B) In the second variant, the silicone polyamide may be a polymer comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (II):

[Wherein:

R ⁴ and R ⁶ , which may be the same or different, are as defined above for formula (I)

- R ¹⁰ represents a group as defined above for R ⁴ and R ⁶ or a group of the formula -XG "-R ¹² wherein X is as defined above for formula (I) and R ¹² Is a linear, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, monocyclic or multicyclic ring system comprising at least one atom selected from O, S and N in a hydrogen atom or, unsaturated, C ₁ -C ₅₀ hydrocarbon-based group, or one or more C ₁ -C ₄ represents a phenyl group optionally substituted with an alkyl group, G "is -C (O) NH- and -HN-C (O) - represents a) Lt; / RTI >

- R ¹¹ represents a group of the formula -XG "-R ¹² , wherein X, G" and R ¹² are as defined above,

- m ₁ is an integer ranging from 1 to 998, and

- m ₂ is an integer in the range 2 to 500.

In the present invention, the silicone polymer may be a homopolymer, that is, a polymer comprising several units of the same unit, particularly units of the formula (I) or (II).

In the present invention, it is also possible to use copolymers containing several different units of the formula (I), i.e., one or more groups of R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , X, G, Y, A silicone polymer formed from different polymers in units may be used. The copolymer may also be formed from several units of formula (II) wherein at least one group of R ⁴ , R ⁶ , R ¹⁰ , R ¹¹ , m ₁ and m ₂ is different in more than one unit.

In addition, polymers comprising one or more units of the formula (I) and one or more units of the formula (II) may be used and the units of the formula (I) and the units of the formula (II) Do.

Such copolymers may be block polymers or graft polymers.

In this first embodiment of the invention, the silicone polymer may also consist of a graft copolymer. Thus, polyamides containing silicon units can be grafted and optionally cross-linked with silicon chains containing amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized using trifunctional amines.

In one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the group capable of forming a hydrogen bond is an amide group of the formula -C (O) NH- and -HN-C (O) -. In this case, the structuring agent may be a polymer comprising at least one unit of the following formula (III) or (IV):

or

R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , X, Y, m and n are as defined above.

In the polyamides of the formula (III) or (IV), m is in the range of from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500, in particular from 50 to 200, and n is in particular from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100, Is in the range of 4 to 25,

- X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 30, in particular from 1 to 20, in particular from 5 to 15, more especially from 10 to 10, carbon atoms,

Y is preferably an alkylene chain of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 carbon atoms, linear or branched and possibly containing rings and / or unsaturation .

In the formulas (III) and (IV), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain one or more of the following constituents in its alkylene moiety:

1) from 1 to 5 amides, ureas, urethanes or carbamate groups,

2) a C ₅ or C ₆ cycloalkyl group, and

3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 same or different C ₁ to C ₃ alkyl groups.

In the formulas (III) and (IV), the alkylene group may also be substituted with one or more members selected from the group consisting of:

- a hydroxyl group,

- a C ₃ to C ₈ cycloalkyl group,

1 to 3 C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkyl groups,

A phenyl group optionally substituted with _one to three C ₁ to C ₃ alkyl groups,

- a C ₁ to C ₃ hydroxyalkyl group, and

- a C ₁ to C ₆ aminoalkyl group.

In the above formulas (III) and (IV), Y may also represent:

Wherein R ⁸ represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of the formula:

Wherein a, b and c are independently integers ranging from 1 to 10 and R ¹³ is a hydrogen atom or a group as defined for R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ .

In the formulas (III) and (IV), R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ are preferably independently selected from linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkyl groups, preferably CH ₃ , C ₂ H ₅ , nC ₃ H ₇ or an isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.

As indicated above, the polymer may comprise the same or different units of formula (III) or (IV).

Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing units of several lengths of formula (III) or (IV), i. E., A polyamide corresponding to formula (V)

Wherein X, Y, n and R ⁴ to R ⁷ have the indicated meanings and m ₁ and m ₂ different from each other are selected within the range of 1 to 1000 and p is an integer ranging from 2 to 300.

In the above formulas, the units may be configured to form a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or alternating copolymer. In such copolymers, the units may have different lengths as well as contain different chemical structures, such as different Y groups. In this case, the polymer may correspond to the following formula VI:

Wherein R ⁴ to R ⁷ , X, Y, m ₁ , m ₂ , n and p have the meanings given above and Y ¹ is different from Y but selected from groups defined for Y. As noted above, the various units may be configured to form a block copolymer, or a random or alternating copolymer.

In this first embodiment of the present invention, the structuring agent may also consist of a graft copolymer. Thus, polyamides containing silicon units can be grafted and optionally cross-linked with silicon chains containing amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized using trifunctional amines.

In this case, the polymer may comprise one or more units of the formula (VII)

Wherein X ¹ and X ² have the meanings given for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T are as defined in formula (I) R ¹⁴ to R ²¹ are groups selected from the same group as R ⁴ to R ⁷ , m ₁ and m ₂ are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer in the range of 2 to 500].

In formula (VII), the following are preferred:

- p is in the range of 1 to 25 and more preferably in the range of 1 to 7,

And R ¹⁴ to R ²¹ is a methyl group, -

- T corresponds to one of the following formulas:

[Wherein R ²² is a hydrogen atom or a group selected from the groups defined for R ⁴ to R ⁷ , and R ²³ , R ²⁴ and R ²⁵ are, independently, a linear or branched alkylene group] Corresponds to the formula:

(In particular, R ²³ , R ²⁴ and R ²⁵ represent -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -),

m ₁ and m ₂ are in the range of from 15 to 500 and more preferably in the range of from 15 to 45,

- X ¹ and X ² represent - (CH ₂ ) ₁₀ -, and

Y represents -CH ₂ -.

Such polyamides containing grafted silicone units of the formula (VII) can be copolymerized with the polyamide-silicone of formula (II) to form block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers. The graft silicone unit (VII) weight percentage in the copolymer may range from 0.5 wt% to 30 wt%.

In the present invention, as indicated above, the siloxane units may be present in the main chain or skeleton of the polymer, but may also be present in the graft or pendant chain. In the main chain, the siloxane unit may be in the form of a segment as described above. In pendant or graft chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.

In one embodiment of the present invention, a copolymer of a silicone polyamide and a hydrocarbon-based polyamide or a copolymer containing units of the formula (III) or (IV) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units can be used. In this case, the polyamide-silicone unit may be located at the end of the hydrocarbon-based polyamide.

In one preferred embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises units of the formula III, preferably wherein R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ represent a methyl group, and one of X and Y is a carbon number of 6 , The other represents an alkylene group having a carbon number of 11, and n represents a degree of polymerization DP of the polymer.

Examples of such silicone polyamides which may be mentioned are commercially available from Dow Corning under the names DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15) (INCI name is nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymer) ≪ / RTI >

Advantageously, the silicone polyamide is a compound having the INCI name nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymer.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polydimethylsiloxane block polymer of the general formula (I), wherein the index m is about 100. The index "m" corresponds to the degree of polymerization of the silicone portion of the polymer.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III), wherein m is in the range of from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150,

Preferably, R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ are independently selected from the group consisting of linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄₀ alkyl groups, preferably CH ₃ , C ₂ H ₅ , nC ₃ H ₇ or an isopropyl group.

As examples of polymers that can be used, one of the silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US-A-5 981 680 can be mentioned.

Preferably, a nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymer sold by Dow Corning as DC 2-8179 is used as the silicone polyamide.

The silicone polyamide is present in a total content ranging from 0.5% by weight to 45% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 30% by weight and more preferably from 2% by weight to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, May be present in the composition.

Silicone resin

Examples of silicone resins that may be mentioned include the following:

_{Siloxysilicates} , which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates of the formula [(CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO] _x (SiO _4/2 ) _y (unit MQ), wherein x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80,

- formula (CH ₃ SiO _{3/2) x} (unit T) polysilsesquioxane of (in the formula, x is greater than 100, wherein the one or more methyl radicals may be substituted by R as defined above),

- polymethylsilsesquioxane (polysilsesquioxane in which no methyl radical is substituted with another group). Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5 246 694.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of the following:

- Wacker Corporation Resin MK, for example Belsil PMS MK: CH ₃ SiO _3/2, and contains the recurring units (units T), also include (CH _{3) 2} SiO _2/2 units (D units) up to about 1% And having an average molecular weight of about 10 000 g / mol, or

(Hereinafter which is composed of a T unit of the formula CH ₃ SiO _3/2, containing an Si-OH (silanol) end groups) Shin-Etsu Corp. KR-220L, KR-242A (which 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl units D and containing Si-OH end groups), or KR-251 (which contains 88% of units T and 12% of dimethyl units D and contains Si-OH end groups ).

Siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned include trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (TMS), optionally in powder form. Such resins are commercially available from Momentive Performance Materials under SR1000 or from Wacker under TMS 803. Also, mention may be made of Shin-Etsu under the name KF-7312J or DC 749 and DC 593 from Dow Corning, which are commercially available trimethylsiloxy silicate resins in solvents such as cyclomethicone.

Advantageously, the silicone resin, for example a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, is present in an amount of from 0.5% to 30%, or more preferably from 1% to 25%, or even more preferably from 5% to 25% %. ≪ / RTI >

Preferably, nylon-611 / dimethicone is used as the silicone polyamide, and trimethylsiloxy silicate resin is used as the silicone resin.

In another embodiment, the silicone resin is a propylphenylsilsesquioxane resin.

Silsesquioxane resins are a specific form of film-forming silicone resin. Silicone resins are crosslinked organopolysiloxanes that are solid at room temperature and are generally soluble in organic solvents. When they are soluble in a volatile solvent, the silicone resin can form a film when the solvent is evaporated. Further, when a solvent dissolving the silicone resin is absorbed on the substrate onto which the silicone resin is applied, the silicone resin remaining on the substrate can also form a film.

The composition of the present invention may comprise a propylphenylsilsesquioxane resin, which is disclosed in patent publication WO 2005/090444 (published September 29, 2005); US20040180011 (published September 16, 2004); And US20040156806 (published August 12, 2004).

Wherein the propylphenylsilsesquioxane resin comprises at least about 70 mole% of a propylsiloxy unit (C ₃ H ₇ SiO _3/2 ) based on the total mole percent of the siloxy units of the resin, and a total mole of the siloxy units of the resin (C ₆ H ₅ SiO _3/2 ) up to about 30 mole percent based on the%

The mole% of propylsiloxy units versus phenylsiloxy units can be adjusted according to the intended application. As above, a range from about 70:30 to about 100: 0, e.g., 70:30; 80:20; 90:10; And 100: 0; And a partial range of the ratio of the propyl silsesquioxane resin having the mole% of the propylsiloxy unit: phenylsiloxy unit. When the mole percentage of the propylsiloxy units is about 100 mol%, the propylphenylsilsesquioxane resin is referred to as the propylsilsesquioxane resin.

Suitable examples of propylphenylsilsesquioxane resins for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, propylsilsesquioxane resins sold under the trademark DC 670 Fluid by Dow-Corning.

The propylphenylsilsesquioxane film forming resin may be present in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 50%, such as from about 1% to about 40%, such as from about 2% to about 30%, such as from about 3% %, And, for example, from about 4% to about 10% by weight, all based on the total weight of the composition.

Silicone acrylate copolymer

The composition of the present invention may contain a silicone acrylate copolymer.

Silicone acrylate copolymers are another specific form of film forming silicone resin. They are available either as a silicone acrylate copolymer having a (meth) acrylate skeleton grafted to a silicon chain or as a silicon skeleton grafted with (meth) acrylate, or as a silicone acrylate dendrimer.

Silicone acrylate dendrimers, such as those described and claimed in US Pat. No. 6,280,748, the entirety of which is incorporated herein by reference, are preferred for use in the compositions of the present invention. The silicone acrylate dendrimer is composed of a vinyl polymer having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in its molecular side chain. The vinyl-type polymer is characterized by having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in its side chain. The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" is a structure having a high-molecular weight group branched from a single core in a highly regular manner in the radical direction.

The vinyl polymer backbone is composed of a vinyl type monomer containing a radically polymerizable vinyl group. In its broadest definition, there are no particular restrictions on monomers of the above type. A particularly preferred vinyl polymer is (meth) acrylate.

The number-average molecular weight of the silicone acrylate dendrimer for use in the compositions of the present invention ranges from about 3,000 to about 2,000,000, such as from about 5,000 to about 800,000.

Particularly preferred silicone acrylate dendrimers for use in the compositions of the present invention include Dow Corning's FA-4001 CM silicone acrylate (30% solution in cyclomethicone) and FA-4002 ID silicone acrylate (40 in isododecane) % Solution) (INCI name acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate copolymer) is available.

The silicone acrylate copolymer may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt% to about 20 wt%, such as from about 0.7 wt% to about 15 wt%, such as from about 1 wt% to about 10 wt% (All weights are based on the total weight of the composition).

The pulverulent phase

The composition of the present invention may contain fine powdery material in addition to the microcapsules defined above.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a fine powder phase.

More particularly, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least 15% by weight, more particularly at least 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a fine powder phase.

For the purposes of the present invention, the fine powder phase may contain, in addition to the microcapsules required according to the invention, a filler; Pigments; nacre; Particles having a metallic hue; And mixtures thereof. ≪ RTI ID = 0.0 > [0040] < / RTI >

Thus, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 5% to 60% by weight and more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition Fine powder phase.

Thus, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 15% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight and more preferably from 25% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition Fine powder phase.

a) non-captive filler

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" should be understood to mean any colorless or white solid particle, which is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

These fillers, whether inorganic or organic, natural or synthetic, provide a makeup result that provides softness to the composition containing it and has a matte effect and uniformity.

The composition according to the present invention may contain 0.5 to 50% by weight and preferably 1 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a filler.

Such amount of filler does not include the amount of hollow particles required simultaneously according to the present invention.

Of the inorganic fillers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, natural or synthetic mica, talc, kaolin, natural or synthetic cericite, silica, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, hollow silica microspheres ), Glass or ceramic microcapsules; Silica and titanium dioxide (e.g., TSG series available from Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.), and mixtures thereof.

Among the organic fillers that can be used in the composition according to the present invention, polyamide powder (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder (Teflon®) Tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, spherical powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes (especially those described in JP-A-02-243612, commercially available for example from Dow Corning under the designation Trefil Powder E 2-506C or DC9506 or DC9701) , Hydrolysis and polycondensation products of siloxane mixtures of silicone resins (R ₃ SiOHCH ₃ and Si (OCH ₃ ) ₄ wherein R represents an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms) (for example, (KSP 100 from Shin-Etsu), silicone resin microbeads (e.g. Tospearl (R) from Toshiba), Polypore (R) L200 (Chemdal Corporation), polyurethane powders, (The copolymer includes trimethylolhexyl lactone, for example, a polymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolhexyl lactone, marketed by Toshiki under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800®) And mixtures thereof.

Among other organic fillers that can be used in the composition according to the present invention, starch-based or cellulose-based powders can be mentioned. Examples of such fillers that may be mentioned include Dry Flo products available from Akzo Nobel and Cellubeads products from Daito Kasei.

Advantageously, the filler according to the invention is preferably an inorganic filler selected from mica, sericite, kaolin, talc and silica, and mixtures thereof.

c) non-captured particulate material for coloring purposes

Such additional colored particulate material may be present in a proportion of from 0 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight or even from 5 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition containing it.

This may in particular be a particle with a pigment, a pearl layer and / or a metallic tint product, and these materials possibly are surface treated.

The term "pigment" should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles insoluble in aqueous solution, which is intended to render the composition containing it colored and / or opaque.

The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition .

The pigments may be white or colored, and inorganic and / or organic.

As inorganic pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium oxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet ), Ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may comprise at least one non-trapping inorganic pigment selected from at least titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, and / or bismuth oxychloride or boron nitride ≪ / RTI >

In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention contains at least non-entrapped TiO ₂ .

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, ceriseite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such pigments are available, for example, as Coverleaf NS or JS from Chemicals and Catalysts, which has a contrast ratio of 30 in the area.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, a silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having such a structure is a product commercially available from Miyoshi under the name PC Ball PC-LL-100 P. The pigment is composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Advantageously, the pigment according to the invention is iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

The term "nacreous layer" refers to any colored iridescent or non-iridescent colored (non-irritating) nacre of light that has a color effect through optical interference, in particular in the shell of the mollusk, Should be understood to mean particles.

The composition of the present invention may comprise from 1 wt% to 80 wt%, preferably from 5 wt% to 60 wt%, and more preferably from 10 wt% to 40 wt% of a nacreous layer based on the total weight of the composition.

The nacreous layer may be a pearlescent pigment such as a titanium mica coated with iron oxide, a titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, a titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, a titanium mica coated with organic dye, and also a pearlescent pigment based on bismuth oxychloride Can be selected. It may also be a mica particle in which two or more successive layers of metal oxide and / or organic dye are superimposed on the surface thereof.

Examples of nacreous layers that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

Of the commercially available nacreous materials, nacreous Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (mica based) available from Engelhard, nacreous Timiron available from Merck, mica-based nacreous Prestige available from Eckart, and synthetic mica- Desc / Clms Page number 2 &

The nacreous layer may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, brass, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or hue.

Examples of nacreous layers that can be used in the context of the present invention include, among others, Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X A commercially available, gold-pearl layer; A brass nacre layer commercially available from Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); Especially the orange pearlescent layer marketed by Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and from Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (Microna); A brown-toned nacre layer commercially available from Engelhard under the designations Nuantique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); A nacreous layer of copper-tinted color, commercially available from Engelhard under the designation Copper 340A (Timica); A nacreous layer with a red hue, marketed by Merck under the designation Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); A nacreous layer with a yellow hue, commercially available from Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); Especially the nacre layer of a red tint with a golden tint marketed by Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); A pink nacre layer commercially available from Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); A black pearl layer with a gold tint, commercially available from Engelhard under the designation Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); A blue nacre layer commercially available from Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); A white nacre layer with silver tint, sold under the name Xirona Silver by the company Merck, in particular a gold-green-pink-orange nacre layer commercially available from Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the nacreous layer according to the invention is a titanium dioxide or iron oxide, and also a mica coated with bismuth oxychloride.

In the sense of the present invention, the term "particles having a metallic hue" means particles whose nature, size, structure and surface state are capable of reflecting incident light, in particular in a non-unshifted manner.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise particles having a metallic color tone of 1 wt% to 50 wt% and preferably 1 wt% to 20 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

Particles with a substantially flat outer surface are also suitable because their size, structure and surface condition are likely to cause stronger mirror reflections (hereinafter referred to as mirror effects), if possible.

Particles with a metallic hue that can be used in the present invention can reflect light in all components of the visible light region, for example, without significantly absorbing one or more wavelengths. The spectral reflectance of such particles can be, for example, in the range of 400-700 nm, more than 70%, and more preferably 80% or more, or more preferably 90% or 95%.

Such particles generally have a thickness of less than or equal to 1 占 퐉, in particular less than or equal to 0.7 占 퐉, in particular less than or equal to 0.5 占 퐉.

Particles with a metallic hue that can be used in the present invention are especially selected from the following:

Particles of one or more metals and / or one or more metal derivatives,

Particles comprising a single material or a composite material organic or inorganic substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer having a metallic hue comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and

A mixture of the particles.

Among the metals that may be present in the particles, for example, Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, And mixtures or alloys thereof can be mentioned. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronze and brass) are preferred metals.

The term "metal derivatives" is intended to mean compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

Among the metal derivatives that may be present in the particles are in particular metal oxides such as titanium oxide, especially TiO ₂ , iron oxides, in particular Fe ₂ O ₃ , tin oxide, chromium oxide, barium sulfate and the following compounds: MgF ₂ , CrF _{3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO 2} , Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, SeO 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, MoS 2, and mixtures thereof Can be mentioned.

Examples of such particles that may be mentioned include aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC ^® by Siberline, and Metalure ^® by Eckart.

(E. G., Commercially available from Eckart under the trade name Rotosafe 700), silica-coated aluminum particles (commercially available from Eckart), metal powders of copper or alloy mixtures (such as 2844 available from Radium Bronze), aluminum or bronze (Commercially available under the designation Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart) can be mentioned, as well as metal alloy particles such as silica-coated bronze (copper and zinc alloy) powder.

As an example of the second type of particles, more particularly the following may be mentioned:

Glass particles coated with a metallic layer, especially those described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

As examples of such particles containing a glass substrate, those platelet-shaped, each coated with silver, gold or titanium, available from Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine can be mentioned. Particles with a platelet-like, silver-coated glass substrate are commercially available from Toyal under the designation Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS. Particles having a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chrome / molybdenum alloy are available from Toyal under the designations Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525. Brown iron oxide or titanium oxide, tin oxide, or mixtures thereof are commercially available, for example, from Engelhard under the name Reflecks or from Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Metashine MC 2080 GP.

These metal-coated glass particles can be coated with silica, such as those commercially available from Nippon Sheet Glass under the designation Metashine series PSS1 or GPS1.

Particles comprising a spherical glass substrate optionally coated with a metal are in particular those marketed by Prizmalite Industries under the designation Prizmalite Microsphere.

Nippon Sheet Glass Co. Lt; RTI ID = 0.0 > Metashine < / RTI > 1080R range are also suitable for the present invention. More particularly, such pigments as described in the patent application JP 2001-11340 are C-Glass glass flakes comprising 65% to 72% SiO ₂ coated with a layer of titanium dioxide (TiO ₂ ) of the rutile type. These glass flakes have an average thickness of 1 micron and an average size of 80 microns, i.e. an average size / average thickness ratio of 80. [ They have blue, green or yellow tones or silver tones, depending on the thickness of the TiO ₂ layer.

Particles comprising a silver-coated borosilicate substrate are also known as "white nacreous layer ".

Particles comprising a metal substrate, such as aluminum, copper or bronze, in platelet form, are available from Silberline under the trade designations Starbrite and Eckart under the designation Visionaire.

Particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide and a synthetic mica (fluorophosphite) substrate coated with titanium dioxide corresponding to, for example, 12% of the total weight of the particles. Particles of size are commercially available from Nihon Koken under the designation Prominence.

Particles having a metallic hue can also be selected from particles consisting of a laminate of two or more layers having different refractive indices. This layer may be of a polymeric or metallic type, and in particular one or more polymer layers may be included.

Thus, the particles having a metallic effect may be particles derived from a multilayer polymer film.

The selection of the material which is intended to constitute the various layers of the multilayer structure is obviously made such that the particles form the desired metallic effect.

Such particles are described, inter alia, in WO 99/36477, US 6 299 979 and US 6 387 498, more particularly in the following goniochromatic paragraph.

Advantageously, the particles with a metallic hue according to the invention are particles with a spherical or non-spherical glass matrix, and also particles with a metallic matrix.

In certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention contains at least reflective particles selected from, in particular, a nacreous layer, particles having a metallic hue, and bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.

As an example of the second type of particles, more particularly the following may be mentioned:

Particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide or particles comprising a spherical glass substrate optionally coated with brown iron oxide or titanium oxide, tin oxide or mixtures thereof, such as those commercially available from Engelhard under the name Reflecks Or those sold under the designation Metashine MC 2080GP by Nippon Sheet Glass. Such particles are detailed in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

- particles having a metallic effect comprising an inorganic substrate coated with a metal. It can be a particle with a silver-coated borosilicate substrate, also known as a "white nacre ".

- particles containing spherical glass substrates coated with silver, especially those sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS from TOYAL. Particles comprising a spherical glass substrate coated with a nickel / chrome / molybdenum alloy, especially those sold under the designation CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by TOYAL.

- Metallic effect and particles with particles of optionally coated metallic compound on the surface, NIPPON SHEET GLASS NAME METASHINE ^® LE 2040 PS, METASHINE ^® 5 MC5090 PS or METASHINE ^® MC280GP (2523), SPHERICAL SILVER POWDER ^® DC 100 from Engelhard , SILVER FLAKE ^® JV 6 or GOLD POWDER ^® A1570, ENERGY STRATEGY ASSOCIATES INC STARLIGHT REFLECTIONS FXM ^® , MEADOWBROOK INSERTS BRIGHT SILVER ^® 1 E 0.008X0.008, ULTRAMIN ^® (ALUMINUM POUDER FINE LIVING) and ECKART COSMETIC METALLIC POWDER VISIONNAIRE BRIGHT SILVER SEA ^® , COSMETIC METALLIC POWDER VISIONAIRE NATURAL GOLD ^® (60314) or COSMETIC METALLIC POWDER VISIONAIRE HONEY ^® 560316 °.

More preferably, such reflective particles are selected from the group consisting of bismuth oxychloride particles, mica particles coated with titanium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention contains at least bismuth oxychloride (CI 77163).

Advantageously, the compositions of the present invention may also contain at least a nacreous layer comprising at least a silver-coated borosilicate substrate (also known as "white nacre"). Such particles are commercially available from MERCK under the trade name Xirona Silver.

The composition may comprise pre-dispersed reflective particles in one oil selected from inorganic, vegetable oils and ester oils.

In a preferred embodiment, these reflective particles are present in the composition of the present invention in a predispersed form in one or more oils selected from the group consisting of:

- inorganic oil

Vegetable oils such as sweet almond oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, canola oil, castor oil;

Esters such as octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, ethylhexyl ethyl hexanoate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, and

- mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the oil is selected from the group consisting of ethyl (2) hexylhydroxystearate and castor oil, and preferably ethyl (2) hexylhydroxystearate.

Thus, in certain and preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include, among physiologically acceptable media, the following:

(i) at least the microcapsules of the present invention and

(ii) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of ethyl (2) hexylhydroxystearate or castor oil and preferably ethyl (2) hexylhydroxystearate.

Advantageously, said reflective particles are selected from mica particles and bismuth oxychloride particles covered with titanium oxide, said particles being predispersed ethyl (2) hexylhydroxystearate.

In certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise from 68% to 72% by weight of bismuth oxychloride in 28% to 32% by weight of ethyl (2) hexylhydroxystearate relative to the total weight of the pre- , I.e. the weight ratio of bismuth oxychloride / oil (s) is in the range of 2 or more, and preferably in the range of 2 to 2.6.

Such dispersions are commercially available from MERCK under the trade designation Xirona Silver.Biron ^® Liquid Silver.

Additional moisturizer

For special care applications, the compositions according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional moisturizing agents (also known as humectants).

The humectant (s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, especially 0.5% to 10% by weight or even 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyhydric alcohols, preferably C ₂ -C ₈ and more preferably C ₃ -C ₆ , preferably glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene Glycols, diethylene glycol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof, glycerol and derivatives thereof are known as moisturizers or wetting agents.

The compositions according to the present invention may also comprise additional humectants or wetting agents.

Such additional humectants or wetting agents that may be mentioned in particular include sorbitol, glycol ethers (especially having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl ethers, mono-, Or triethylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl ether, urea and derivatives thereof, in particular Hydrovance (2-hydroxyethylurea), lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, sodium pidolate, xylitol Collagen, plankton, extracts of Imperata cylindra (marketed under the name Moist 24 by Sederma), acrylic acid homopolymers (such as NOF Corporation < (R) >'s Lipidure-HM ^®), beta-glucan, in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan (Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry Co., Ltd.); A mixture of passionflower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil (sold under the name Nutralipids ^® by Nestle); C-glycoside derivatives (for example those described in patent application WO 02/051 828), in particular in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of the active substance in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) (a product manufactured by, for example under the trade name Mexoryl SBB ^® from the company Chimex) D- xylene as seed pyrano-2-hydroxy-propane; Musk rose oil available from Nestle; Marine origin of collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres (Atelocollagen) (marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres); Hyaluronic acid spheres (such as those commercially available from Engelhard Lyon); Arginine, argan oil, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred are moisturizers selected from glycerol, urea and derivatives thereof, in particular Hydrovance ^® , C-glycoside derivatives from National Starch, such as those described in patent application WO 02/051 828, especially water / propylene glycol mixtures 60 / C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of the active substance (for example, manufactured by Chimex Corporation under the trade name Mexoryl SBB ^® ) Argan oil, and mixtures thereof can be used.

More preferably, glycerol can be used.

Activator

Advantageously, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one UV filter and ultimately an activator.

Thus, in particular for skin care or make-up applications, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more active agents selected from the following:

In one advantageous embodiment, the combination according to the invention can be combined with one or more supplemental cosmetic actives.

Such active agents can be selected from anti-wrinkle agents, vitamins, in particular B3, B8, B12 and B9, moisturizers, stripping agents, anti-aging activators, decolorizing agents, antioxidants and the like.

Such active agents may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition have.

Anti-wrinkle agents: ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; Tocopherol and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; Nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; Ubiquinone; Glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-glycoside compounds and derivatives thereof, particularly those described below: extracts of plants, in particular sea fennel and extracts of olive leaves; And also plant proteins and hydrolyzates thereof, such as hydrolyzates of rice or soy protein; Algae extract, especially kelp extract; Bacterial extract; Sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants containing it, especially extracts of wild yams; ? -hydroxy acid; beta -hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid; Oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives, in particular the {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid and lipid peptides (from Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000); Lycopene; Manganese salts and magnesium salts, especially manganese and magnesium gluconate; And mixtures thereof may be mentioned;

- Release agents: beta-hydroxy acids, especially salicylic acid and derivatives thereof other than 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid; Urea; Glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Extract of Saphora japonica; honey; N-acetylglucosamine; Sodium methylglycine diacetate, alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), and mixtures thereof;

Decolorizing agents: ceramides, vitamin C and derivatives thereof, especially vitamin CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha-and beta-arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, calcium D-pantethene sulfonate , lipoic acid, ellagic geusan, vitamin B3, phenylethyl resorcinol (e.g. Symrise Inc. Symwhite 377 ^®), kiwi, available from Gattefosse (Actinidia chinensis) juice, Paeonia extract of suffructicosa roots (e.g. name from Ichimaru Pharcos Co. Botanpi Liquid extracts of B ^® product as marketed), brown sugar (sugar cane (Saccharum officinarum)) (e.g. extract sold under the name Molasses Liquid from Taiyo Kagaku Co.), undecylenic acid and undecanoic silane Russo mixture of phenyl alanine (such as Seppic, Inc. Sepiwhite MSH ^® ) may be mentioned;

Antioxidants: more particularly tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopheryl acetate; EDTA, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, especially magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; Chelating agents such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

When the active ingredient ascorbyl glucoside is present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, it is present in an amount of less than 0.05% by weight, more preferably 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Herbal medicine formulation

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a keratinous substance, in particular a makeup and / or care composition for the skin or the lips.

In particular, the compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for the preparation of BB products or foundation, dark circles shielding products, concealer products, tinted creams, skin, especially for the care or make-up of the face or body, after-sun composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a non-rinsing composition: it is intended that the composition is not rinsed after application on the skin.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is not contained in a dispenser comprising a pump. This is advantageous because it avoids the risk of microcapsules being destroyed. In fact, in the case of using such a dispenser, the microcapsule may be broken before application onto the keratinous material.

The compositions according to the invention can be used in any of the herbal forms conventionally used in topical applications, in particular in the liquid or semi-liquid consistency milk type, or in the cream or gel type of soft, semi-solid or solid viscosities or, alternatively, W / O, W / O / W, O / W / O) obtained by dispersing an oil phase, emulsion (O / W) obtained by dispersing an oil phase, emulsion Quot;

In particular, the composition is in a form selected from the group consisting of gels, in particular transparent gels, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions and foams.

Surfactants

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants (emulsifiers) selected from the group consisting of, in particular, amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants used alone or as a mixture.

The surfactant is generally present in a proportion, for example from 0.3% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, Is present in the composition.

Needless to say, the surfactant is more particularly chosen to effectively stabilize the emulsion under consideration under the present invention, i.e. O / W, W / O or O / W / O type. The choice belongs to the skill of the skilled person.

For example, when emulsifier potassium cetyl phosphate is present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, it is present in an amount of, for example, from 0.2% to 3% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, More preferably from 0.8 wt% to 1.2 wt%, and even more preferably 1 wt%.

O / W emulsifier

Examples which may be mentioned of O / W emulsions are non-ionic surfactants and, in particular, fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated chains, for example containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, esters, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is, oxyethylene screen and / or polyoxypropylene derivatives, for example C ₈ -C ₂₄ glyceryl esters, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives of fatty acid containing as a unit; C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids of polyethylene glycol, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; Sorbitol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and oxyalkyleneated derivatives thereof; Sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkyl glucose) esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and oxyalkyleneated derivatives thereof; Fatty alcohol ethers; C ₈ comprises ether, and mixtures thereof per -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols.

Glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) (CTFA designation: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and its And mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) and more particularly polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate Rate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA designation: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.

Mixtures of these surfactants, such as those containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed by Uniqema under the trade name Arlacel 165, and glyceryl stearate, marketed by Goldschmidt under the trade name Tegin, (Glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) can also be used.

Fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose which may be mentioned are, in particular, glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearate, such as methylglucossequistate, alkylglucos palmitate, for example methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucosamine palmitate, Tate, fatty esters of methyl glucoside and more particularly diesters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside diolate); Mixed esters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose diolate / hydroxy stearate); Esters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose isostearate); Esters of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucos laurate); A mixture of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); A mixture of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate) and, in particular, products sold under the trade name Glucate SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and of glucose or of alkylglucose which may be mentioned are the oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular of polyethylene glycol of diesters of stearic acid and methylglucose containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide Ether (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product sold under the trade name Glucam E-20 distearate by Amerchol; Polyethylene glycol ethers (CTFA designation: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) of a mixture of monoesters and diesters of stearic acid and methyl glucose containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide and, in particular, from Amerchol under the trade name Glucamate SSE- 20, and a product sold by Goldschmidt under the trade name Grillocose PSE-20, a mixture of mica.

Examples of sucrose esters which may be mentioned include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

Examples of fatty alcohol ethers which may be mentioned are polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol, A mixture of stearyl alcohols). Examples which may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of the CTFA designations Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly mentionable sugar ethers include alkylpolyglucosides, such as decyl glucoside, for example, the product sold under the trade name Mydol 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the trade name Plantaren 2000 by Henkel, and SEPPIC Products marketed under the trade name Oramix NS 10; Caprylyl / caprylic glucoside, such as the product sold under the trade name Oramix CG 110 by SEPPIC, or the product Lutensol GD 70 by BASF; Lauryl glucoside, such as those sold under the trade names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by Henkel; Coco glucosides, such as those available under the trade name Plantacare 818 / UP by Henkel; For example, cetostearyl glucoside as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol optionally sold by SEPPIC under the trade name Montanov 68, by Goldschmidt under the trade name Tego-Care CG90, under the trade name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, ; Arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and arachidyl glucoside, marketed by SEPPIC under the trade name Montanov 202; E. G. Cocoyl ethyl glucoside in the form of a mixture (35/65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, marketed by SEPPIC under the trade name Montanov 82; And mixtures thereof.

W / O Emulsifier

For W / O emulsions, hydrocarbon-based or silicone surfactants may be used.

According to one embodiment, a hydrocarbon-based surfactant is preferred.

Examples of hydrocarbon surfactants that may be mentioned are polyester polyols such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxy stearate sold under the reference Arlacel P135 by Uniqema, Inc. and Cognis under the reference Dehymuls PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxy stearate.

Examples of silicone surfactants that may be mentioned are alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone sold under the name Abil EM 90 by Goldschmidt Or a polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt.

One or more coarse emulsifiers may also be added thereto. The coarse emulsifying agent may advantageously be selected from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters. Particularly mentionable polyol alkyl esters include glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate sold under the name Lameform TGI by Cognis, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, Products sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate such as sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI Products, and mixtures thereof.

These compositions are prepared according to conventional methods.

This type of composition may be in the form of a face and / or body care or makeup product, and may be adjusted, for example, into a cream in a bottle or a fluid in a tube.

The compositions according to the present invention may be solid or somewhat fluid and have the appearance of creams, gels, in particular transparent gels, ointments, milks, lotions, serums, pastes, foams (with or without associated propellant).

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel, in particular a transparent gel, and comprises from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, of microcapsules.

The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of gels, in particular transparent or translucent gels, which comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and from 1 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, of microcapsules .

Preferably, the viscosity of the gel according to the present invention is 20UD (Mobile 3) or higher by Rheomat at 25 ° C.

Viscosity is generally measured at 25 ° C with viscometer RHEOMAT RM 180 with mobile 3 (mobile selected to have a measurement of 10 to 90 for UD unit deviations) adapted to the viscosity of the product being tested, And the mobile is rotated 10 mn inside the composition. Thereafter, the UD value can be converted to Poise (1 poise = 0.1 Pa.s) as a conversion table.

More preferably, the composition contains a gelled aqueous phase.

Hydrophilic gelling agents which may be mentioned include, in particular, water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These polymers can be selected in particular from the following:

- modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers such as the product sold under the name carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by Goodrich; Polyacrylate

Polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the Guardian company or those sold under the name Hispagel by the company Hispano Chimica;

- polyacrylamides; Optionally bridged and / or

- neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, for example, poly (2-acrylamyl) amines sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA designation: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) by Clariant Di-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid);

- Crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS in the form of W / O emulsions such as the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA designation: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth-7) by the company SEPPIC and the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80);

Polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carob gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenan, gellan, alginate,

Celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; And mixtures thereof. Preferably, these polymers are selected from the group consisting of acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers such as Carbopololex 20, Carbopololex 21, Permulen TR-1, Permulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020 , Carbomer such as Synthalen K, Carbopol 980, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearates-8 methacrylate copolymer such as Aristoflex SNC, Acrylate copolymer such as Carbopol Aqua SF-1, Ammonium acryloyldimethyl Taurate / stearates-25 methacrylate crosspolymer such as Aristoflex HMS, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate such as Arisfoflex AVC, and xanthan gum such as Keltrol CG, and also to contribute to maintaining proper viscosity and further to provide a capsule suspension Making it very well, and not only making it stable during the shelf life, but also contributing to transparency It may be selected from the polymer.

These gelling agents may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase of the composition contains at least one neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer and copolymer and one polysaccharide biopolymer.

More preferably, the aqueous gel is transparent.

The expression "transparent aqueous medium" means a medium that allows light to pass without causing deflection by refraction or reflection. The transparency of the aqueous medium can be measured using a turbidimeter. Using a portable turbidity 2100P® model from HACH, for example, a range of transparency of the composition can be measured. The composition is considered transparent when the measured turbidity value is between 0 and 250 NTU and is considered to be translucent when the turbidity value is between 250 and 1000 NTU.

When a clear composition is placed in front of a 0.01 mm thick black line with a diameter of 2 mm drawn on a white sheet, this black line appears to be exposed, while the opaque, i.e. not transparent, composition will not allow it.

The color changing composition in the form of a transparent gel according to the present invention preferably comprises multilayer microcapsules containing water and releasable colorant (s).

In a first preferred embodiment, the transparent gel according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agent and at least one water softening agent (s) and / or lipid (s) having a polarity moiety.

In a first preferred embodiment, the transparent gel according to the present invention comprises two or more different types of multilayer microcapsules containing releasable colorant (s).

The transparent gel according to the present invention, which is preferably a BB product or a foundation, provides a very strong moisturizing feel, transparency, a clean bulk appearance and a very comfortable feel during application and a natural sheer makeup result after application. These traits help convey both makeup efficacy (appropriate coverage) as well as skin care efficacy awareness (hydration, moisturizing and transparency).

Advantageously, the clear gel contains a swelling agent, which allows for better swelling of the microcapsules, which makes the microcapsules more easily broken during application. Water, alcohols, glycol polyols can be used as the swelling agent. Examples of swelling agents are disclosed above.

Moisturization may be further enhanced by the introduction of one or more water softening agent (s) and / or lipid (s) having polar moieties. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl < RTI ID = 0.0 > Cocoates can be used to improve moisturizing.

A solubilizer may also be added to maintain the properties of the clear gel upon storage, to dissolve the softener in the water phase, and to make and maintain the gel transparent and stable during shelf life. As an example of a solubilizing agent, mention may be made of polysorbate 20, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.

The transparent gel according to the present invention provides a very beautiful, clean, clean appearance and releases the pigment without any graininess during application. After application, the make-up results are provided completely and uniformly.

Preferred aspects of the transparent gel according to the present invention include:

C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers such as Permulen TR-1, Permulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, preferably 0 to 10% wgt and more preferably 0 to 2% , Preferably 0 to 10% wgt, more preferably 0 to 2% wgt, of a carbomer such as Synthalen K, Carbopol 980, preferably 0 to 10% wgt, more preferably 0 to 10% An acrylic acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearates-8 methacrylate copolymer such as Aristoflex SNC, preferably 0 to 10% wgt, more preferably 0 to 2% wgt, Copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearates-25 methacrylate crosslinking agent such as Carboplol Aqua SF-1, preferably 0 to 10% wgt, more preferably 0 to 2% wgt. Such as Aristoflex HMS, preferably 0 to 10% wgt, more preferably 0 to 4% wgt, concentration of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate such as Arisfoflex AVC, and preferably 0 to 10% wgt, Xanthan gum at a concentration of 0 to 4% wgt such as Keltrol CG.

Moreover, the transparent gel may contain one or more of the following swelling agents, preferably 0 to 90% wgt, more preferably 30 to 70% wgt water, such as demineralized water, preferably 0 to 50% wgt, Glycols, such as propylglycol, butylglycol, preferably 0 to 50% wgt, more preferably 1 to 50% wgt, with a concentration of 20% wgt alcohol, preferably 0 to 50% wgt, more preferably 1 to 15% 10% wgt < / RTI > of polyol such as glycerin, tetraol.

In addition, the clear gel may also contain 0 to 20% wgt, more preferably 0 to 5% wgt of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, PEG-7 olivate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG- And one or more solubilizing agents such as PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, and 0 to 10% wgt, more preferably 1 to 5% wgt concentration of one or more solubilizing agents such as polysorbate 20, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil May contain one or more water-soluble softening agents.

Microcapsules with a concentration of 0.1 to 30% wgt, more preferably 1 to 10% wgt, Magic 60-WP0105 from Korea Particle Technology, and Magic50-BW0105 can be introduced in the last step without gentle agitation but without a side scraper after the gel is made.

In the case of a care composition, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, of microcapsules, based on the weight of the composition.

The transparent gel containing the microcapsules thus obtained had a pure and clean appearance and had a clear appearance at -20 / 20 占 폚 (5 cycles), room temperature (25 占 폚 for 2 months), 37 占 폚 for 2 months, To provide complete stability. The microcapsules release the pigment without application of any particles during application. After applying, the makeup result is provided perfectly and uniformly.

The transparent gel may also be slightly colored.

In this case, the transparent gel preferably contains one or more non-trapping colorants in an amount of less than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the total composition.

The composition may also be in the form of a gel cream, or an emulsion gel, comprising an oil and a surfactant.

According to another embodiment, the color-changing composition according to the invention is in the form of a foam comprising from 1 to 30% by weight of microcapsules, based on the weight of the composition.

The term " foam-like composition "and the term" foam-type formulation "mean the same and are understood to mean a composition comprising a dropwise gaseous phase (e.g., air); Another equivalent term is "bulk expanded composition ".

In one embodiment, a foam composition without propellant is obtained (non-aerosol foam).

In another preferred embodiment, a foam composition comprising a propellant is obtained (aerosol foam).

The foam-like composition according to the present invention can be obtained from the composition of the present invention used as a "base composition" packaged in an article. Such a product, in addition to the base composition, may contain a propellant.

Accordingly, the present invention also relates to a product comprising:

a. A container defining one or more compartments;

b. The compositions of the present invention contained in said compartment,

c. A propellant that pressurizes the composition within the compartment; And

d. And an opening that is selectively placed in fluid communication with said compartment for delivering said pressurized composition in the form of a foam.

According to another embodiment, the invention relates to a kit comprising one of the above defined products and an applicator.

The foam-like composition according to the present invention is stably formed in the form of a mousse using the composition of the present invention and air or an inert gas.

The air or inert gas may comprise in particular from 10% to 500%, preferably from 20% to 200%, for example from 30% to 100% of the volume of the foam-like composition.

This volume can be calculated by comparing the density of the base composition and foam form composition.

In addition to air, the gas which allows the composition in the form of a foam to be obtained is in particular an inert gas, for example nitrogen, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxide, inert gas or a mixture of such gases. Where the composition comprises an oxidation-sensitive compound, it is preferred to use an oxygen-free gas such as nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

The amount of gas introduced into the base composition contributes to adjusting the density of the foamy composition to a desired value, for example, 0.12 g / cm 3 or less.

The foamed composition of the present invention may for example have a density of 0.12 g / cm3 or less, for example 0.02 to 0.11 g / cm3, preferably 0.06 to 0.10 g / cm3, It is measured at atmospheric pressure according to the following protocol.

Density measurement

The test is performed on 50 ml of the composition introduced into a 50 ml polished Plexiglas® goblet (V ₁ ) defining a 30 mm high cylindrical filling space with a base of 46 mm diameter. The goblet has a bottom wall of 10 mm thickness and a side wall of 12 mm thickness.

Prior to measurement, the composition to be characterized and the goblets are maintained at a temperature of about 20 占 폚. Weigh the goblet and record the weight value (M ₁ ). The foam-like composition is then introduced into the goblet to take up the total volume while avoiding the formation of air bubbles during charging of the goblet. The assembly is allowed to stand for 10 seconds to allow the mousse to fully expand. The top of the goblet is then skimmed before weighing (M ₂ ). The density is evaluated according to the convention ρ = (M ₂ -M ₁ ) / 50.

Stability measurement

The foam-like composition according to the present invention exhibits satisfactory stability, which can be calculated by measuring the volume of moose (V ₂ ) remaining in the goblet after 10 minutes according to the protocol described above for the density measurement.

The ratio V ₂ / V ₁ corresponds to the ratio between the volume of the foam-form composition after 10 minutes and the volume of the foam-form composition after 10 seconds.

이 0.85 초과, 특히 0.90 초과, 예를 들어 0.95 초과인 거품 형태의 조성물에 적용된다.The expression "satisfactory stability"

Is greater than 0.85, in particular greater than 0.90, such as greater than 0.95.

In the case of a foam-form composition of a given weight, the volume of the foam-like composition is inversely proportional to the density of the foam-like composition. Thus, the ratio between the density of the foam-form composition measured after 10 seconds and the density of the foam-form composition measured after 10 minutes may be greater than 0.85, in particular greater than 0.90, such as greater than 0.95.

In the foam-like composition according to the invention, air pauses may advantageously have a number average size of from 20 탆 to 500 탆, preferably from 100 탆 to 300 탆.

The foam-like composition can be obtained from the composition of the present invention in a distributor. In addition to the base composition, such a dispenser may be an aerosol containing propellant.

Such propellants may comprise less than 20% by weight of the base composition, and may in particular comprise from 1% to 10% by weight, for example from 2 to 8% by weight, for example greater than 5% by weight of the total weight of the base composition. Propellants that may be used may be selected from carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrous oxide and volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane, propane, ethane, pentane, isododecane or isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

It may in particular be a propane / butane mixture (liquefied petroleum gas or LPG) with a weight ratio [propane / butane] of 0.1 to 1, in particular of 0.31.

The pressure of the propellant, for example the propane / butane mixture, in the aerosol may be from 0.20 to 0.50 MPa, for example from 0.20 to 0.40, in particular from 0.25 to 0.35 MPa.

The foam-like composition used in the present invention may be prepared by mixing, stirring or dispersing a compressed gas such as air, a chlorofluorocarbone compound, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, oxygen or helium, mixing and stirring in the presence of a blowing agent such as a surfactant, Followed by stirring.

In particular, foam-like compositions are prepared by mixing the components under agitation, usually under hot conditions, and then expanding the volume under the action of a gas, where the gas is supplied, for example, in the Mondomix type, Kenwood ) Type of beater, a surface scraping exchanger or a volume expansion device of a dynamic mixer (e.g. IMT type), during the cooling step of the composition or after the preparation of the composition. The gas is preferably air or nitrogen.

The composition according to the present invention may be packaged in a container separating one or more compartments containing the composition, wherein the container is closed by a stopper part. The container may be provided with means for dispensing the product. In particular, the container may be provided with a pump.

The container may be a pot.

Some of the containers may be made of thermoplastic material. As an example of the thermoplastic material, polypropylene or polyethylene may be mentioned. Alternatively, the container is made of a non-thermoplastic material, especially glass or metal (or alloy).

The composition may be applied, for example, by a finger or using an applicator.

The container is preferably used in combination with an applicator comprising one or more application components configured to apply the composition to the keratinous material.

According to another advantageous embodiment, the applicator comprises an applicator nozzle.

The foam composition according to the present invention comprises from 1 to 30%, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, of microcapsules based on the weight of the composition. The resulting foam is fine (small droplets) and contains colored microcapsules. The foam has a white appearance prior to application on the keratinous material, and a keratinous material, in particular on the skin, and a coloring aspect after homogenization.

When the foam composition comprises at least 3% by weight of microcapsules with respect to the weight of the composition, it is a preferably fillers and / or pigments such as TiO _2, ZnO, CeO, bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride, is TiO ₂ advantageously .

To avoid pigmentation of the water phase, the foam composition may also comprise calcium carbonate (CaCO ₃ ).

The foam composition according to the invention comprises 1 to 10%, preferably 3 to 8% by weight, of filler and / or pigment advantageously TiO ₂ , based on the weight of the composition.

The foam composition according to the invention comprises from 0.5 to 5%, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, of calcium carbonate based on the weight of the composition.

To test the stability of the foam, the foam was vigorously shaken (1000 shakes) and ΔE a, b between the colors of the pre-shake and post-shake bulk is less than 10, preferably less than 5.

According to another embodiment, the color changing composition according to the present invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

These makeup compositions, which are preferably make-up BB products or foundations for the face, provide a very strong moisturizing feel, a creamy texture, a very comfortable feel during application, and a thin, natural makeup result after application. After application, all these traits help convey a very good balance of makeup efficacy (proper coverage and natural shine) as well as skin care efficacy awareness (creamy and moisturizing). Advantageously, a suitable sunscreen agent may be added.

Such compositions include primarily water, one or more non-volatile oils, one or more O / W emulsifiers, and microcapsules.

The nonvolatile oil (s) used in this preferred embodiment are those previously mentioned.

Advantageously, the O / W emulsion contains a swelling agent, which allows for better swelling of the microcapsules, which makes the microcapsules more easily broken during application. Water, alcohols, glycols and polyols can be used as swelling agents .

Preferably the O / W emulsion also contains a coarse emulsifying agent and / or a solubilizing agent.

Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol may be mentioned as coar emulsifiers.

The solubilizer may be added to maintain the properties of the O / W emulsion during storage, especially to dissolve the ingredients of the water phase and to stabilize and maintain the composition during the shelf life. As an example of a solubilizing agent, mention may be made of polysorbate 20, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.

An O / W emulsion is obtained that contains a complete stable capsule upon storage, during which time the pigment is released without any particle feel. After applying, the makeup result is provided perfectly and uniformly.

Furthermore, the O / W emulsion may contain one or more of the following swelling agents, preferably 0 to 90% wgt, more preferably 30 to 70% wgt water, such as demineralized water, preferably 0 to 50% wgt, more preferably 1 To 20% wgt, preferably 0 to 50% wgt, more preferably 1 to 15% wgt, of a glycol such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, preferably 0 to 50% wgt, A coarse emulsifier such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol at a concentration of 1 to 10% wgt, such as glycerin, tetraol, preferably 0 to 20% wgt, more preferably 1 to 5% wgt, ) And 0 to 10% wgt, more preferably 1 to 5% wgt, of solubilizing agent such as PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.

Alternatively, the O / W emulsion may contain two or more different types of microcapsules, for example three different types of microcapsules. Therefore, the makeup result is changed into natural and radiant appearance, and it can convey a kind of white pink makeup and uniform skin tone.

Microcapsules, preferably 0-30% wgt, more preferably 0-10% wgt, concentration, such as Magic 60-WP0105 from Korea Particle Technology, and Magic50-BW0105, Can be introduced without scraper.

A pure and clean appearance of the bulk and an O / W emulsion with complete stability under -20 / 20 ° C (5 cycles), room temperature (25 ° C, 2 months), 37 ° C (2 months) and 45 ° C Can be obtained. However, the capsule will emit the pigment without application of any grain feel during application. After applying, the makeup result is provided perfectly and uniformly.

Moreover, organic sun filters can be added to the system and provide additional sun care benefits.

Advantageously, the O / W emulsion contains at least non-entrapped TiO ₂ . Non-trapped TiO ₂ allows for better coverage.

In particular, the composition in emulsion form comprises at least non-entrapped TiO ₂ and from 1 to 30% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, of microcapsules.

Throughout the specification, including the claims, the term "comprising one " is to be understood as synonymous with" comprising one or more "

The terms " ... to ... "and" to ... range "should be understood to include their boundary values unless otherwise stated.

The present invention is illustrated in more detail as an example according to the present invention described below. Unless otherwise stated, the amounts given are expressed as mass% of active material.

Description of Drawings

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Figure 1 is a schematic illustrating a typical structure of the color-changing microcapsules of the present invention, where A represents the core and B, C, D and E are the different layers concentrically surrounding the core.

Figures 2 to 10 show schematics showing the core-shell structure of the color-changing microcapsules prepared according to Examples 6 to 14, respectively, which are described later in this specification.

Example

I. Microcapsules

Different preparation examples of microcapsules according to the present invention are described below to illustrate the present invention.

Example 1 : Preparation of microcapsules with internal brown coating and external white coating

Mannitol (spray dried mannitol: Pearitol 100SD) was used as the core.

120.0 g of ceramide (Ceramide PC 104) and 120.0 g of hydrogenated lecithin (Lipoid S 100-3) were added to a mixed solution of 1600.0 g of methylene chloride and 1600.0 g of ethanol and completely dissolved at 40 占 폚. To the obtained mixture, 1260.0 g of yellow iron oxide, 252.0 g of red iron oxide and 45.36 g of black iron oxide were added and dispersed well using a homogenizer to prepare an inner color coating solution.

347.70 g of mannitol was introduced as a seed into a fluidized bed coating system (Glatt GPOG 1, bottom spray), and the inner color coating solution was applied to the coating at a feed rate of 500 ml / h to prepare mannitol Particles having a core were obtained.

Then, 36.0 g of ceramide and 36.0 g of hydrogenated lecithin were added to a mixed solution of 720.0 g of methylene chloride and 720.0 g of ethanol and dissolved at 40 캜. To the mixture thus obtained, 600.0 g of titanium dioxide particles were added and dispersed well using a homogenizer to prepare a titanium dioxide particle coating solution.

The obtained coating with the titanium dioxide particle coating solution was prepared by a fluidized bed process to obtain particles having an inner color layer coated with the titanium dioxide particle layer.

Thereafter, 300.0 g of shellac was dissolved in 3000 g of ethanol to prepare an outer layer coating solution, which was coated on the titanium dioxide particle layer to obtain a color-changing microcapsule having a titanium dioxide particle layer coated with an outer layer .

Example 2 : Preparation of microcapsules with inner yellow coating and outer white coating

Microcapsules were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 1557.36 g of yellow iron oxide was used instead of the mixed coloring agent composed of yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide and black iron oxide as internal colors in the preparation of the inner color coating solution .

Example 3 : Preparation of microcapsules with internal red coating and external white coating

Microcapsules were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 1557.36 g of red iron oxide was used in place of the mixed coloring agent composed of yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide and black iron oxide as internal colors in the preparation of the internal color coating solution .

Example 4 : Preparation of microcapsules with inner black coating and outer white coating

Microcapsules were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 1557.36 g of black iron oxide was used instead of the mixed coloring agent consisting of yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide and black iron oxide as internal colors in the preparation of the internal color coating solution .

Example 5 : Preparation of microcapsules with inner black coating and outer green coating

In the step for forming the titanium dioxide particle layer, the same procedure as in Example 4 was repeated.

Then, 20.0 g of ceramide and 20.0 g of hydrogenated lecithin were added to a mixed solution of 400.0 g of methylene chloride and 400.0 g of ethanol and dissolved at 40 캜. To the reaction mixture obtained, 40.0 g of green chromium hydroxide (CI77289) was added and dispersed well using a homogenizer to prepare a green coating solution.

The obtained coating with the green coating solution was prepared by a fluidized bed process (feed rate of the coating solution: 500 ml / h) to obtain particles having a layer of titanium dioxide particles coated with a green layer.

Thereafter, 200.0 g of polymethacrylate (Eudragit RSPO) was dissolved in 4000 g of ethanol to prepare an outer layer coating solution. The obtained outer layer coating solution was prepared by a fluidized bed process (feed rate of coating solution 100 ml / h) to obtain color-changing microcapsules having a green layer coated with a polymeric outer layer.

Example 6:

Using the ingredients and contents set forth in the following table, color changing microcapsules having a core and two layers, as shown in Figure 2, were prepared by a fluidized bed process:

(1) Mixed pigment (inner color): Yellow: Red: Black = 55.18: 34.48: 10.34

(2) Component: Core Seed - Inner Color Layer - TiO ₂ Particle Layer

Example 7:

Using the ingredients and amounts listed in the following table, color changing microcapsules having a core and three layers as shown in Figure 3 were prepared by a fluidized bed process:

(1) Mixed pigment (interior color): Yellow: Red: Black = 60.4: 23.8: 11.4: 4.4

(2) Component: Core Seed - Inner Color Layer - TiO ₂ Particle Layer - External Color Layer

Example 8:

Using the ingredients and contents set forth in the following table, color changing microcapsules having a core and two layers as shown in Figure 4 were prepared by a fluidized bed process:

(1) Mixed pigment (interior color): Yellow: Red: Black = 60.1: 28.8: 11.1

(2) Component: Core Seed - Inner Color Layer - TiO ₂ Particle Layer

Example 9:

Using the ingredients and contents set forth in the following table, color changing microcapsules with a core and two layers, as shown in Figure 5, were prepared by a fluidized bed process:

(1) Component: Core Seed - Inner Color Layer - TiO ₂ Particle Layer

Example 10:

Using the ingredients and contents described in the following table, color changing microcapsules having a core and three layers as shown in Figure 6 were prepared by a fluidized bed process:

(1) Mixed pigment (interior color): Yellow: Red: Black = 55.18: 34.48: 10.34

(2) Component: Core Seed - Inner Color Layer - TiO ₂ Particle Layer - External Color Layer

Example 11:

Using the ingredients and amounts listed in the following table, color changing microcapsules having a core and three layers as shown in Figure 7 were prepared by a fluidized bed process:

(1) Mixed pigment (interior color): White: Yellow: Red = 92: 6: 2

(2) Component: Core Seed - Inner Color Layer - TiO ₂ Particle Layer - External Color Layer

Example 12:

Using the ingredients and amounts listed in the following table, color changing microcapsules having a core and three layers as shown in Figure 8 were prepared by a fluidized bed process:

(1) Mixed pigment (interior color): White: Yellow: Red: Black = 89: 2: 8: 1

(2) Component: Core Seed - Inner Color Layer - TiO ₂ Particle Layer - External Color Layer

(3) Components of each layer (detailed description):

Example 13:

Using the ingredients and contents set forth in the following table, color changing microcapsules having a core and two layers, as shown in Figure 9, were prepared by a fluidized bed process:

(1) Component: Core Seed - White TiO ₂ Particle Layer - External Color Layer

(2) Components of each layer (detailed description):

Example 14:

Using the ingredients and contents set forth in the following table, color changing microcapsules having a core and three layers, as shown in Figure 10, were prepared by a fluidized bed process:

(1) Mixed pigment: White: Yellow: Red: Black = 84.3: 5.0: 8.7: 2

(2) Component: Core Seed - Inner Color Layer - TiO ₂ Particle Layer - Outermost Shell

II. Composition

In all examples, " alcohol " means " ethanol. &Quot;

Unless specified, the protocol used to prepare the composition is a conventional protocol.

Example 1: Foundation

Manufacturing protocol

An aqueous phase (water, butylene glycol, magnesium sulfate) and a lipophilic phase (silicone surfactant, oil, filler) are separately prepared.

The two phases are then mixed under Moritz shaking until uniform.

Thereafter, bismuth oxychloride dispersed in ethylhexylhydroxystearate is added under a Moritz shaker until uniform.

The alcohol is then added under the Moritsu shaker.

The microcapsules are then added under shaking of the Rayneri until uniform.

observe

The composition in the bottle or on the fingers has a white pearl-like morphology and the microcapsules are covered by the bismuth oxychloride pre-dispersion.

After application on the skin and homogenization, the composition provides a uniform shiny makeup effect.

Example 2: O / W milky fluid with pink microcapsules

Manufacturing protocol:

1. Mix phase A1 with 75 ℃

2. Add A2 to A1

3. B3 + B4 roll mirror

4. Mix B1 + B2 + B3 + B4 at 75 ℃

5. Phase B was added to Phase A and homogenized (Rayneri 1000 rpm, 10 min)

6. When cooled to 65 ° C, kick and add phase C and phase D (1800 rpm, 15 minutes)

7. Cool to 45 ° C and add phase E

8. Replace Rayneri with Ekart and use a small blender to add Phase F until the microcapsules are evenly distributed.

The aspect of the composition and evaluation after application

The obtained O / W emulsion has a whitish pink appearance and a cosmetic effect that has a covering effect when applied to the skin, although it shows an appearance for a care.

The O / W emulsion has a pure and clean appearance inside the jar and has perfect stability under room temperature (25 ° C, 2 months), 37 ° C (2 months) and 45 ° C (2 months) at -20 / Respectively. The microcapsules release the pigment during application to the skin with a comfortable feeling during application, giving the makeup results as natural as the foundation, but the makeup effect (proper cover) as well as the skin care effect awareness (moisture, moisturizing and transparency) Lt; / RTI >

Example 3. Aerosol foam

a) Manufacturing procedure

1. Powder phase is mixed by powder mixer

2. Add mixed powder phase to main kettle

3. Add heated water (75-85 ° C) to the main kettle

4. Add a heated oil phase (75-85 ° C) to the main kettle

5. Homogenize in main kettle

6. After mixing, cool to room temperature

7. Adding surfactants and fragrance in the main kettle

8. Homogenize in main kettle

9. Add microcapsules and mix gently with paddles

10. Finish the bulk manufacturing

(Charging process)

11. Put the bulk in an aerosol package

12. Add LPG (propane / butane mixture (liquefied petroleum gas or LPG) in an aerosol package (5%, 0.31 MPa)

The foam obtained with the A-D composition was white, and the foam was obtained with Composition E, where the particles were not significantly visible in bulk.

All of these impart natural skin and makeup effects upon application to the skin.

Claims (21)

A color change composition for care and / or make-up of a keratinous material, comprising at least the following in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) a microcapsule containing releasable colorant (s)
- a core comprising one organic material,
- at least one laminate coating surrounding the core,
One or more polymers,
One or more colorants, and
Advantageously, one or more lipid-based materials
≪ / RTI >
, ≪ / RTI >
b) at least 3 wt.%, preferably at least 5 wt.%, more preferably at least 8 wt.%, advantageously at least 10 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition of a polyol, a glycol and a C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohol, An aqueous phase comprising at least one compound selected from a mixture thereof and water, and
c) one or more UV filters. The color changing composition of claim 1, wherein the microcapsules comprise two or more layers of different hues, preferably one or more organic inner layers and one organic outer layer. The color changing composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the microcapsules are uncolored, that is, the outer layer is white or transparent, and the outer layer is transparent, the visible inner layer is white. 4. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the core is selected from the group consisting of one or more monosaccharides or derivatives thereof, particularly advantageously mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, A color change composition comprising a selected monosaccharide-polyol. 5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the laminate coating surrounding the core comprises polysaccharides and derivatives, preferably one type of saccharide or several types of saccharide (s), preferably at least D- (S) selected from the group consisting of several types of sugar (s), including glucose units, especially starches and derivatives, cellulose or derivatives, more preferably starches and derivatives, Color change composition. 6. The color-changing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the microcapsule comprises at least:
An inner core consisting of a monosaccharide-polyol, preferably mannitol,
- two or more layers of different colors,
Preferably one or more hydrophilic polymers selected from polysaccharides or derivatives, more preferably from starches or derivatives, and
Advantageously one or more lipidic substances, preferably amphipathic compounds, more preferably phospholipids, even more preferably phosphoacylglycerols such as hydrogenated lecithin. 7. The color changing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising microcapsules in an amount of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. 8. The color changing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the UV filter is an organic UV filter. The organic UV filter according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the organic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of an aminobenzoic acid derivative, a dibenzoylmethane derivative, a salicylic acid derivative, a cinnamic derivative, a beta, a beta-diphenyl acrylate derivative, a benzophenone derivative, ≪ / RTI > and mixtures thereof. 10. The color changing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the organic UV filter is a benzylidene camphor and a derivative, advantageously ecamsule. 11. The color-changing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which contains at least one polyol having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 6 carbon atoms. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising 12% to 50% by weight, especially 13% to 40% by weight, more preferably 14% to 35% by weight, , More preferably from 15% to 30% by weight of the polyol (s) and / or glycol. 13. The color change composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising an activator. 14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the active agent is selected from wrinkle inhibitors, vitamins, in particular B3, B8, B12 and B9, a moisturizer, a stripping agent, an anti-aging activator, a decolorizing agent and an antioxidant. 15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 0.1 to 70% by weight of volatile and nonvolatile silicone or hydrocarbon oil, Wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises an additional cosmetic ingredient (s) selected from a cosmetic composition, a preservative, a silicone elastomer, a self-tanning agent, an additional non-capture colorant, and mixtures thereof. 16. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, of microcapsules, based on the weight of the composition ≪ / RTI > The color change composition for the care of a keratinous substance. 17. The color changing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the microcapsules have a size ranging from 50 mu m to 800 mu m in diameter, preferably from 60 mu m to 500 mu m in diameter,
i) The core (A) preferably has a size in the range of 500 nm to 150 탆 in diameter, preferably contains no coloring agent and preferably contains one or more sugar alcohols, advantageously mannitol, erythritol, xylitol A core (A) comprising at least one organic core selected from monosaccharide-polyols selected from sorbitol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof;
ii) at least one colorant, preferably iron oxide (s), and
A binder selected from one or more polymers, one or more lipid-based materials, and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof
A first layer (B) surrounding said core;
iii) titanium dioxide particles, and
A binder selected from one or more polymers, one or more lipid-based materials, and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof
(C) surrounding said first layer (B), said second layer (C) having a thickness of from 5 탆 to 500 탆, said second layer
iv) optionally,
At least one colorant, and
- one third layer (D) surrounding said second layer (C), comprising a binder selected from one or more polymers, one or more lipid based materials, and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof;
v) optionally, preferably cellulose derivatives, especially cellulose ethers and cellulose esters, (poly) (alkyl) (meth) acrylic acid and derivatives, especially (poly) (alkyl) (meth) acrylates and derivatives, (C), comprising at least one wall-forming polymer selected from polysaccharides, such as poly (alkyl methacrylate) copolymers and derivatives thereof, or, if present, the third layer (D) One fourth layer (E) surrounding. 18. A color change cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, which comprises water in an amount of at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight, more preferably at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition / RTI > The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, which comprises 30% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably 40% by weight to 95% by weight, more preferably 50% by weight to 90% by weight, % ≪ / RTI > by weight of the composition. 20. The color change cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein at least one layer of the microcapsules is obtained by a fluidized bed process. A makeup method for the care and / or make-up of a keratinous substance, comprising applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20 to said keratinous material, in particular on the skin.

Images