JP4261268B2 - Manufacturing method of spun yarn - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a manufacturing how merging twisted spun yarn spun yarn formed by a plurality Hongo twist.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, there has been a demand for a woven or knitted fabric having a silky-like texture using spun yarn, and it is known that a woven or knitted fabric using fine yarn is inclined to a silk-like. However, in order to achieve a texture that is actually recognized as silk-like, it is necessary to use a 240th (English cotton count) class spun yarn, and a high level to stably produce this class of spun yarn. Spinning technology is required.
[0003]
In order to overcome this situation, there is an attempt to embody the texture of silk cricket with cotton fabric by constructing a specific fabric design (see, for example, Patent Document 1).
For this cotton fabric, a spun yarn is used in which a 200th-class cotton spun yarn made of cotton staples having a specific fineness and a specific fiber length is used as a double yarn (double twisted yarn). In order to make a silk-like cotton fabric, since the constituent yarn is slightly thick, the fabric design has been devised so that the specific physical properties such as bending and shearing become a certain level or more together with a specific cover factor. As a result, a silk-like cotton fabric with a soft and draped feeling is obtained.
[0004]
On the other hand, as a fine count technique, the number of staples in the cross section of the spun yarn is difficult to spin if it is too small from the viewpoint of spinnability. Generally, the minimum number of staples that can be spun is one spun yarn. The number is about 35 per cross section (see Non-Patent Document 1, for example). Therefore, in order to reduce the number of staples in the cross section more than this, a blended yarn containing hot water-soluble fibers is once prepared so that the number of staples in the cross section is 35 or more, and dyeing processing after weaving and knitting A method of dissolving and removing the hot water-soluble fiber in the process is adopted (for example, see Patent Document 2).
[0005]
[Patent Document 1]
JP-A-6-280125 ([Claim 1], [0025])
[Patent Document 2]
JP 2000-303307 A ([Claim 2], [0011], [0015])
[Non-Patent Document 1]
"Textile Handbook Processing" published by Maruzen Co., Ltd. May 30, 1969, P61
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
However, the invention according to Patent Document 1 has a problem that the variation in the fabric is scarce because of the restriction on the fabric design.
On the other hand, the invention according to Patent Document 2 dissolves and removes the hot water-soluble fiber of the blended yarn in a dyeing process after weaving and knitting. Therefore, in order to make the constituent yarn of the woven or knitted fabric from which the hot water soluble fiber is dissolved and removed, it is necessary to increase the mass ratio of the hot water soluble fiber in the blended yarn. However, in the present invention, there is a problem in that slippage of the woven or knitted fabric structure is caused when the number of staples constituting the cross section of the constituent yarn after dissolving and removing the hot water soluble fiber is less than 30. As described above, in order to make the woven or knitted fabric feel like silk cricket, we must use 240th (English cotton count) class spun yarn, which is a typical spun yarn, natural fiber spun yarn. Then, it is desired that the number of staples constituting the cross section per spun yarn is less than 30, and there is room for improvement.
[0007]
The present invention has been made in view of the above situation, and a twisted spun yarn capable of freely producing a sill-like knitted fabric without being restricted by the woven / knitted fabric design, and the twisted spun yarn stably. It is an object of the present invention to provide a silk knitted knitted fabric having a soft and natural feeling without slipping of the woven or knitted fabric structure using the method of producing and the twisted spun yarn.
[0008]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of intensive studies to solve such problems, the present inventors produced a finely spun twisted yarn of staples such as cotton and hot water-soluble fibers, and twisted a plurality of the spun spun twisted yarns. Later, if the hot-water treatment is used to remove the hot-water-soluble fibers, the spun yarn can prevent slipping even if the number of staples in the cross section per spun yarn is small, and the texture of sill-like can be obtained. The headline and the present invention were completed.
[0009]
That is, the gist of the present invention is as follows.
(1) Goyo yarn der the spun yarn is Goyo a plurality of is, the spun yarn is made staple having a single fiber fineness 0.5～3.5Dtex, cross per the spun yarn single a method of manufacturing a Goyo spun yarn staple number is Ru 12-24 present der surface, in the spinning step, by supplying the hot water soluble fiber than weft side of the front rollers, and heat water soluble fiber A twisted spun yarn comprising: producing a spun spun twisted yarn, twisting a plurality of spun spun twisted yarns, and then hydrothermally treating the obtained spun twisted yarn to remove the hot water-soluble fiber. Manufacturing method.
[0010]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The twisted spun yarn of the present invention is a spun spun yarn obtained by twisting a plurality of spun yarns. The single yarn fineness of staples constituting the spun yarn is 0.5 to 3.5 dtex, and the number of staples in the cross section per spun yarn is 12 to 24. Therefore, the thickness per spun yarn is 240 to 360 class.
[0011]
The type of the staple is not particularly limited as long as the woven or knitted fabric having the twisted spun yarn as a part of the constituent yarn exhibits a sill-like texture. For example, synthetic fiber staples such as polyester, polyamide and acrylic, semi-synthetic fiber staples such as triacetate, regenerated fiber staples such as viscose rayon, cupra and solvent-spun cellulose fibers, or natural fibers such as cotton, hemp and wool Staples are mentioned, and these staples are used alone or in combination according to the purpose. The mixing ratio may be appropriately set according to the purpose, but in order to impart a soft and natural feeling to the woven or knitted fabric having the twisted spun yarn as a part of the constituent yarn, It is desirable that 50% by mass or more of the recycled fiber staple is contained.
[0012]
Next, the single yarn fineness and average fiber length of the staple described above will be described.
It is important that the single yarn fineness of the staple is 0.5 to 3.5 dtex regardless of the fiber type. This is because when the thickness is less than 0.5 dtex, the single yarn fineness is thin, so the woven / knitted fabric has poor tension and lower back feeling. When it exceeds 3.5 dtex, the rigidity of the twisted spun yarn increases, which is unique to silk-like knitted fabric. This is because the feeling of swelling is reduced.
The average fiber length is preferably 30 mm or more, regardless of the type of fiber, since a thinner spun yarn can generally be spun for longer staples.
Here, in detail for each fiber described above, it is particularly desirable to use so-called ultra-long cotton having a single yarn fineness of 0.9 to 1.3 dtex and an average fiber length of 35 mm in consideration of the spinnability. “Spinnability” means “representing the limit of spinning of a certain raw material with a count. Spinning limit” (“New Fiber Glossary” published by the Japan Textile Machinery Society, May 30, 1975, P146). It is a term. In general, ultra-long cotton is most suitable for spinning fine yarns, and its spinnability is considered to be around 240.
However, in the present invention, by adopting a new spinning method described later, the thickness of the spun yarn constituting the twisted spun yarn is set to 240 to 360th class exceeding the spinnability of super-long cotton. It was successful.
The wool is preferably a so-called eyelash raw material, and in particular, a merino seed having a single yarn fineness of 1.3 to 3.5 dtex and an average fiber length of 40 to 110 mm is used in consideration of improvement in spinnability, quality of the knitted fabric and texture. Is particularly desirable.
On the other hand, staples for other types, that is, hemp, various types of regenerated fibers, various types of semi-synthetic fibers and various types of synthetic fibers, have a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 1.7 dtex, It is desirable to use an average fiber length of 30 m to 76 mm.
[0013]
Next, the configuration of the twisted spun yarn of the present invention will be described.
In the present invention, it is important that the number of staples in the cross section per spun yarn constituting the twisted spun yarn is 12 to 24.
If the number of staples in the cross section is less than 12, it is not preferable because there is a risk of yarn breakage and fluffing frequently occurring during spinning and / or weaving and knitting due to insufficient strength. Since the spun yarn constituting the fabric becomes thick and it becomes difficult to express the delicate texture peculiar to sill-like knitted fabric when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, it is not preferable.
[0014]
And the twisted and spun yarn of the present invention has a structure in which a plurality of spun yarns composed of staples having a cross section of 12 to 24 are twisted.
This is because, when the spun yarn is used alone for weaving and knitting, yarn breakage frequently occurs due to slipping of the staple due to insufficient strength, and thus the strength is improved by twisting a plurality of spun yarns.
The number of twisted yarns of the spun yarn is not particularly limited, but about 2 to 4 are the most versatile and preferable for clothing use.
[0015]
When the thickness of the spun yarn is A (English cotton count) and the number of twisted yarns is B, the thickness of the spun yarn of the present invention is a value obtained by dividing A by B, that is, A / B (English Formula cotton count). The single spun yarn having a thickness of A / B and the single twisted spun yarn having a thickness of A / B have the same thickness as a yarn, but when woven or knitted, There is a clear difference in the texture that appears. That is, the spun yarn of thickness A constituting the twisted spun yarn of the present invention is very thin and thus has the ability to make a silk knitted fabric, and the spun yarn of the present invention in which a plurality of spun yarns are twisted. The same twisted yarn is provided with the same ability. On the other hand, when the thickness of one spun yarn is A / B, since one spun yarn itself is made of many staples and is thick, it does not have the ability to make a silk knitted fabric. It is.
[0016]
Next, a method for producing the twisted spun yarn of the present invention will be described.
In the twisted and spun yarn of the present invention, the above-described staples are used alone or in combination as a raw material according to the purpose. In addition, when mixing and using a some staple, it mixes by normal raw material blend, lap blend, or sliver blend.
The prepared raw material is first put into the blended cotton process. This process is intended to prepare a wrap made of the above raw materials for the purpose of mixing the raw materials, removing dust, opening the fiber, and the like. Next, the lap is sequentially introduced into the carding process and the combing process to form a sliver. By these two steps, not only dust removal but also staples having a short fiber length are removed, and the parallelism between the staples is improved. In the production of the spun yarn of the present invention, it is desirable to remove as many short staples as possible in these two steps.
In order to efficiently and reliably remove short staples, it is desirable that the number of combing steps be 2-3.
That is, the ribbon wrap is produced from the comb sliver in the same manner as the ribbon wrap is produced from the card sliver, and the ribbon wrap is again put into the combing process.
[0017]
The sliver obtained through the combing process becomes a sliver that is fed into the drawing process and leveled. This step is a step in which about 6 to 8 slivers obtained in the combing step are pulled out of the cans and doubled to give a draft, and the sliver leveling is improved.
The sliver obtained in the drawing process is put into a roving process, becomes a roving and is wound around a bobbin to form a shinowaki.
[0018]
Next, the roving yarn is put into the spinning process, and the spun yarn having 12 to 24 staples in the cross section is spun. However, even if the spinning yarn is directly spun, a high draft is applied. Thread breakage is likely to occur.
Therefore, in the production method of the present invention, this problem is solved by spinning and twisting with hot water-soluble fibers such as polyvinyl alcohol fibers (hereinafter referred to as PVA fibers).
That is, in the spinning process, after supplying hot water-soluble fiber from the yarn feeding side of the front roller, producing a spinning spun yarn with the hot water-soluble fiber, and twisting a plurality of the spinning spun yarn Then, the resultant twisted yarn is treated with hot water to remove the hot water-soluble fiber. What is necessary is just to use what is generally marketed for this PVA fiber. A PVA fiber is a fiber obtained by wet-spinning or dry-wet spinning a polymer having an average degree of polymerization of 100 to 3500 obtained by saponifying vinyl ester units of a vinyl ester polymer such as polyvinyl acetate. In the present invention, it may be a PVA homopolymer or a modified PVA into which copolymer units are introduced. In particular, the use of “Kuraron K-2 (registered trademark) Kuraray Co., Ltd.” It is preferable in terms of ease of handling.
The spinning method is a novel method of spinning and twisting with hot water-soluble fiber, and the total fineness of the spinning yarn (spun spinning and twisting yarn) is increased. As a result, the spinning yarn has an appropriate strength. Thus, the spinning process can be stabilized.
[0019]
FIG. 1 schematically shows an example of the spinning method.
The roving yarn 1 is supplied from the yarn supply side of the back roller B to the spinning machine, given a predetermined draft, and then supplied to the front roller F as a fleece fiber bundle 3. Further, the hot water soluble fiber 2 is supplied to the spinning machine from the yarn feeding side of the front roller F, and is spun together with the fleece fiber bundle 3 to the winding side of the front roller F.
The hot water-soluble fiber 2 and the fleece-like fiber bundle 3 spun to the winding side of the front roller F merge near the outlet of the front roller F to form a twisted yarn 4, and further receive a twisting action from the ring traveler 5. Then, it becomes a fine spinning twisted yarn 6 and is wound around a wood tube 7. Twisting coefficient K (K = T / S ^1/2 where T: number of twists between 1 mm S: number of fine spinning twisted yarn (English cotton count)) at the time of spinning of the fine spinning twisted yarn is 3 A range of .0 to 5.0 is preferred. If it is less than 3.0, the staple contained in the fine spinning and twisting yarn 6 is not sufficiently converged, which may cause fluffing in the spinning process of the fine spinning and twisting yarn 6 described later. On the other hand, if it exceeds 5.0, it is not preferable because the spun and twisted yarn 6 is liable to occur.
[0020]
In addition, as the hot water-soluble fiber 2, it is desirable to use one having a hot water dissolution temperature of 70 to 95 ° C. If it is less than 70 degreeC, especially in a summer production factory, this hot water soluble fiber may elute to moisture, and there exists a possibility of causing a serious trouble in storage and handling. When the temperature exceeds 95 ° C., elution is insufficient at normal pressure in the hydrothermal treatment described later, so a high-pressure treatment facility is required, which not only increases the cost, but also increases the temperature of the hydrothermal treatment. Excessive heat history is imparted to the spun yarn, and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric may be impaired.
Further, the shape of the hot water soluble fiber may be either long or short fiber. And it is preferable that the mass ratio which a hot water soluble fiber occupies in a fine spinning cross-twisted yarn is 50-85 mass%. This is because when the weight ratio of the hot water-soluble fiber is less than 50% by mass, the hot water-soluble fiber becomes substantially thinner than the 240th to 360th class, so that it is difficult to perform the threading operation during spinning. This is because the efficiency may be reduced, and if it exceeds 85% by mass, elution unevenness may be induced.
[0021]
A plurality of the fine spinning and twisting yarns obtained as described above are twisted, and the resultant twisted yarn is subjected to hot water treatment to obtain the twisted spun yarn of the present invention.
The twisting method may be in accordance with a known method. For example, if the required number is set in a creel and twisted with a twisting machine, or the necessary number is aligned with a winder and then twisted with a double twister Can be given. The twist coefficient of the twist is not particularly limited, and a strong twist region is good if the woven or knitted fabric is given a sharp feeling, and a medium to sweet twist region is good if the soft feeling is emphasized.
The obtained twisted yarn is rewound into a shape such as a cassette or a low-hardness package, and then the hot water-soluble fiber is dissolved and removed by hot water treatment such as immersing in boiling water, so that the twisted spun yarn of the present invention is obtained. It is.
[0022]
Further, a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric using the twisted spun yarn of the present invention will be described in detail.
First, in the configuration of the woven or knitted fabric, as long as the spun yarn of the present invention does not impair the effects of the present invention, the spun spun yarn of the present invention, and a yarn having a different constituent material from the spun spun yarn, You may use the thread | yarn which compounded. The composite means may be in accordance with known methods such as twisting and blending, and the timing may be any stage from spinning to hot water treatment. In order to sufficiently obtain the effects of the present invention, it is preferable that the twisted spun yarn occupies 40% by mass or more, further 50% by mass or more of the entire woven or knitted fabric. This is because if it is less than 40% by mass, the fine and delicate texture received from the twisted spun yarn is not sufficiently reflected on the woven or knitted fabric.
[0023]
In the weaving process, the spun yarn of the present invention is used alone or in at least one of the processes in the above-described manner. Depending on the purpose, weaving and arranging with other yarns may be done arbitrarily. Regarding the preparation step, sizing is preferably performed when the sum of the twisting at the time of spinning and the twisting at the time of twisting is in the sweet twist region, and otherwise standard conditions may be used. The loom model is preferably a low-speed rapier loom or a fly loom in order to reduce mechanical damage to the twisted spun yarn.
Moreover, a textile structure can be selected according to the objective, and is not specifically limited. Furthermore, the density is preferably set with a slightly sweetness to the extent that slippage does not occur in the fabric structure in order to develop a soft feeling like many silk-like fabrics.
On the other hand, the knitting process can be handled under standard conditions as in the weaving process.
[0024]
The woven and knitted raw machine is scoured or dyed as necessary. The processing conditions vary depending on the type of fiber used, but standard conditions applied to a general woven or knitted fabric made of the fiber may be adopted.
After the dyeing process, the functionality of the woven or knitted fabric can be further improved by performing pleating process or form stabilizing process depending on the application.
[0025]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described based on examples.
(Example 1)
Cotton staples having an average fineness of 1.14 dtex and an average fiber length of 36 mm were sequentially introduced into the blended cotton, carding, and combing processes to obtain a sliver of 220 gelen / 6 yards.
Next, the obtained sliver was put into a drawing process to obtain a 120 gelen / 6 yard sliver, and this sliver was put into a roving machine to obtain a 40 gelen / 30 yard roving.
The obtained roving 1 is supplied to the spinning machine from the yarn feeding side of the back roller B of the spinning machine shown in FIG. 1 and given a 48 times draft to the winding side of the front roller F as a fleece fiber bundle 3. Spinned.
On the other hand, PVA fiber (“Kuraron K-2 (registered trademark)” manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd.) 80th as hot water soluble fiber 2 is supplied from the yarn feeding side of the front roller F to the spinning machine, and the front roller F is wound up. The fleece fiber bundle 3 was spun to the side simultaneously.
The spun fleece fiber bundle 3 and the PVA fiber are merged in the vicinity of the exit of the front roller F to form a twisted yarn 4, and a ring traveler 5 gives a twisting action of a twisting factor of 4.0, and a finely spun twisted yarn 6 was wound onto the wood tube 7.
Next, the three obtained fine spinning twisted yarns were combined with a twister and retwisted with a double twister to obtain a triplet yarn having a total twist number of 45 T / 吋. Next, the obtained triplet yarn was wound around a fisseur and subjected to boiling water treatment at 100 ° C. for 20 minutes to remove the PVA fiber to obtain a twisted spun yarn of the present invention which is a 300th triplet yarn. When the cross section of the twisted spun yarn was observed with an optical microscope, it was found that the cross section of the spun spun yarn had a structure in which three spun yarns composed of 17 staples were twisted together. It could be confirmed.
[0026]
Next, using the obtained 300 count three-filament for the weft, a five-satin textured machine with a warp density of 230 yarns / 吋 and a weft density of 210 yarns / 吋 was woven using a fly loom.
The obtained raw machine is subjected to the same processes as ordinary cotton fabric, that is, desizing / scouring, bleaching, mercerization, drying and final setting, and the warp density of 244 yarns / 吋 and the weft density of 214 yarns / 吋 is obtained. A woven fabric was obtained.
The obtained woven fabric was a silk-like woven fabric having a soft and natural feeling without any slippage of the fabric structure. When this woven fabric was used as the futon side, it was well-made, and it was lightweight and comfortable to use.
[0027]
(Comparative Example 1)
A fine spinning spun yarn was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the draft given to the roving yarn during spinning was changed to 34 times.
Two spun yarns obtained by spinning together were combined with a twister to obtain a twin yarn having the same twist coefficient as in Example 1 with a double twister, and then subjected to boiling water treatment under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a spun yarn. It was. The obtained spun yarn was 210 count double yarn. When the cross section of the spun yarn was observed with an optical microscope, the spun yarn was composed of 2 spun yarns composed of 25 staples. It was confirmed that this was a twisted structure.
Next, the obtained spun yarn was used as a background, and a green machine was woven with the same structure and background density as in Example 1 using a fly loom.
Further, the obtained raw machine was dyed in the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 248 yarns / 吋 and a weft density of 216 yarns / 吋.
The obtained woven fabric lacked the delicate texture peculiar to the silk woven fabric, and the gloss was inferior to that of the woven fabric obtained in Example 1.
[0028]
(Comparative Example 2)
The sliver after the combing process used in Example 1 was put into a drawing process to make a 90 selenium / 6 yard sliver, and this sliver was put into a roving machine to obtain a 30 selenium / 30 yard roving.
The obtained roving is supplied to the spinning machine from the yarn feeding side of the back roller B of the spinning machine shown in FIG. 1 in the same manner as in Example 1, and the front roller F is formed as a fleece fiber bundle 3 by giving a draft of 57 times. Spinning to the winding side.
On the other hand, the PVA fiber used in Example 1 as the hot water-soluble fiber 2 was supplied to the spinning machine from the yarn feeding side of the front roller F, and spun simultaneously with the fleece fiber bundle 3 to the winding side of the front roller F. .
The spun fleece fiber bundle 3 and the PVA fiber are merged in the vicinity of the exit of the front roller F to obtain a twisted yarn 4, and a ring traveler 5 gives a twisting action of a twisting factor of 3.5. 6 was wound onto the wood tube 7. The number of cotton staples in the cross-section of this fine spinning twisted yarn 6 was 11.
However, in the fine spinning process, the PVA fiber and the fleece fiber bundle 3 are merged in the vicinity of the exit of the front roller F to form the twisted yarn 4 and thereafter wound around the wood tube 7 for 400 hours per hour. As a result, 158 yarn breaks were caused and the spinning process was extremely inferior in operability.
In addition, we tried to twist the three spinning spinning yarns obtained with a twisting machine. However, 77 yarn breaks per 72 spindles per hour occurred, and high quality twisted yarn is produced even if production continues. Judging that no spun yarn could be obtained, production was discontinued.
[0029]
【The invention's effect】
The method for producing the twisted spun yarn of the present invention employs a method of removing a hot water soluble fiber after preparing a spun spun twisted yarn with hot water soluble fiber and twisting a plurality of the spun spun twisted yarn. Therefore, the twisted spun yarn of the present invention in which spun yarn having a small number of constituent staples is twisted can be produced with high productivity without causing yarn breakage due to slipping of the staples during production.
The twisted spun yarn of the present invention can be used to produce a silk-like knitted fabric without being restricted by the woven / knitted design, and the woven / knitted fabric obtained by using this yarn is soft and free from slipping of the woven / knitted fabric structure. It is excellent in natural feeling and can be suitably used for futon side and ladies' innerwear.
[Brief description of the drawings]
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of a preferred spinning method for producing a twisted spun yarn of the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Coarse yarn 2 Hot water soluble fiber 3 Fleece-like fiber bundle 4 Intertwisted yarn 5 Ring traveler 6 Fine spinning spun twisted yarn 7 Wood pipe B Back roller F Front roller

Claims (1)

A spun yarn having a plurality of spun yarns twisted, the spun yarn comprising staples having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 3.5 dtex, and the number of staples in a cross section per spun yarn Is a method for producing a spun yarn having 12 to 24 yarns, and in the spinning step, hot water-soluble fiber is supplied from the yarn feeding side of the front roller, and the spun and twisted yarn with the hot water-soluble fiber is supplied. to prepare, the purified紡交after twisting a plurality Hongo twisted yarns, manufacturing method of Goyo yarn you, characterized in that the resulting twisted yarn by hot water treatment to remove heat water soluble fiber.

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