JP4102829B2 - Elastic warp knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a stretch warp knitted fabric and a method for producing the same, and more specifically, in detail, a warp knitted fabric excellent in stretch used for inner garments and the like, and a method for producing such a warp knitted fabric. It is intended for.

The elastic warp knitted fabric has various functions and functions such as stretch and power, and surface texture and appearance, by appropriately combining a knitted structure with inelastic yarn and a knitted structure with elastic yarn. Make it work.
An elastic warp knitted fabric used for sports apparel and inner apparel is required to exhibit good elongation and power in a vertical direction, a horizontal direction, and an oblique direction. In addition, stretch warp knitted fabric with improved elongation and power is prone to defects such as fraying and curling at the cut edges when cut and used, and there is a problem that the burst strength and tear strength tend to decrease. There has been a demand for improvement of such problems.

For example, in Patent Document 1, in a stretchable warp knitted fabric in which inelastic yarns and elastic yarns are combined, the elastic yarns are knitted with two stitches that overlap and knitting with two needles, so that the vertical direction and the horizontal direction are obtained. In addition, there has been proposed a technique capable of providing a high stretch warp knitted fabric having uniform elongation and stretching power in an oblique direction.
In Patent Document 2, in a stretchable warp knitted fabric obtained by combining an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn, the knitted structure of the inelastic yarn is overlapped over a plurality of needles on the same course by a plurality of yarns. By adopting a two-knitting structure that forms stitches, it is possible to increase the bursting strength and tearing strength, which is a drawback when elastic yarns are made into two stitches, making it difficult to fray and curling to occur. Techniques to do this have been proposed.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-73962 JP 2003-213551 A

The conventional technique using the above-described second stitch structure still has problems depending on the purpose and required performance.
As in Patent Document 1, the technique of making the elastic yarn into a second stitch has the disadvantages that, as pointed out in Patent Document 2, the burst strength and tear strength are not sufficient, and curling is likely to occur. Even if the knitting structure of the second stitch by elastic yarn is variously devised, it is difficult to solve the problem.
As in Patent Document 2, the technique of making a non-elastic yarn into a two-dimensional knitting can increase the bursting strength and tearing strength and the occurrence of curl to some extent as compared with the technique of Patent Document 1 in which the elastic yarn is made into a two-dimensional knitting. Is suppressed. However, it may be difficult to achieve balanced elongation and power in all directions of vertical, horizontal, and naname. Also, depending on the use and required performance of the stretch warp knitted fabric, the burst strength and tear strength are not sufficient. In particular, further improvement is desired for curling prevention.

For highly fashionable inner garments, etc., after cutting the fabric, if the hem processing is performed by folding the edge back and sewing, only that part will not be thick or noticeable, and the edge processing will be performed with the fabric cut. It is done to produce clothing without. The stretch warp knitted fabric for garments having a cutting edge that does not perform such edge processing has the extremely important characteristics of improving the burst strength and tear strength and preventing curling at the edge.
The object of the present invention is to solve the drawbacks while fully exhibiting the advantages of the two-dimensional knitting structure, to improve the burst strength and tear strength, and to prevent the occurrence of curling as well as balanced elongation and power. An object of the present invention is to provide an elastic warp knitted fabric that is satisfactorily used and suitable for use in the above-described sports apparel and inner apparel.

  The stretchable knitted fabric according to the present invention is a stretchable warp knitted fabric knitted by combining an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn, and the inelastic yarn has a swing width of 1 wale per course. In the repeating unit, the knitting structure A that is swung in the direction of the wale with a swing width of a total of 2 wales to form a loop in all courses, and the first elastic yarn of the elastic yarns is over the plural stitches in the same course. Every course or every 2 courses have a course to wrap and a place to move to the next course by being swung in the direction of the wale with a swing width of 1 wale from the previous course between the courses, and loop in all courses And a knitting structure C in which the second elastic yarn of the elastic yarns is alternately swung left and right with a swing width of one wal for each course.

[Knitting structure A of inelastic yarn]
The knitted structure A of inelastic yarn constitutes the basic structure of the stretch warp knitted fabric.
The knitting organization A is swung in the wale direction with a swing width of 1 wal for each course and a swing width of 2 wales in one repeat unit, and forms a loop in all courses.
Specifically, a knitted structure having a repeating unit such as 12/23/21/10 //, 21/23/21/12/10/12 //, or the like is employed.
Depending on the combination with elastic yarn knitting structures B and C, which will be described later, the function and characteristics of the stretch warp knitted fabric differ.

[Inelastic yarn used for knitting structure A]
Basically, the same yarn material as that of a normal warp knitted fabric can be used.
The non-elastic yarn is not limited to a yarn having no elasticity at all, but may be a yarn having less elasticity or stretchability than the elastic yarn. Specifically, in the present specification, the inelastic yarn means a yarn having an elongation of less than 100%. A yarn having an elongation of less than 60% is preferable.
Natural fibers such as cotton, synthetic fibers such as nylon, semi-synthetic fibers and regenerated fibers can also be used. Any form such as a filament yarn, a spun yarn, and a twisted yarn composed of these fibers may be used.

The thickness of the inelastic yarn can be 15 to 77 dtex, and more preferably 22 to 44 dtex. The inelastic yarn preferably has a thickness that can be covered so that the elastic yarn is not exposed on the surface of the knitted fabric. In addition, if it is as thin and strong as possible, a thin warp knitted fabric can be easily manufactured. If the non-elastic yarn is too thick, the stretchability of the fabric is deteriorated, and the surface texture and feel are also deteriorated. Hot spots are also likely to occur.
In the present specification, “hot” refers to the occurrence of fluff and orchid that occurs on the cut end surface when the elastic warp knitted fabric is cut at the beginning or end of knitting in an arbitrary direction including an oblique direction or a curve. This is a general term for phenomena.

[Knitting structure B of elastic yarn]
It has a function of imparting good stretchability to a stretch warp knitted fabric. It also functions to prevent the warp and tear of the elastic warp knitted fabric.
The knitting structure B includes a course in which the elastic yarn overlaps between plural needles in the same course, and a place where the yarn is swung in the wale direction from the previous course to the next course with a swing width of 1 wale between courses. 1 course or 2 courses, and all courses form a loop.
Basically, among the knitting organizations included in the technical concept of the second stitch, it is possible to employ a knitting organization in which the transition between courses is swung in the wale direction with a swing width of one wal. Specifically, there is a knitting organization that overlaps multiple stitches within the same course for each course, then swings in the waling direction with a swing width of 1 wal and moves to the next course to form a loop in all courses. Can be adopted. In general, the overlap in the same course is often between two stitches, but the overlap may be between three stitches or more.

Such a knitted structure can exhibit a strong expansion and contraction function in the horizontal direction by overlapping between a plurality of needles in the same course. In addition, since the transition between the courses is swung in the wale direction with a swing width of one wale, the expansion and contraction function in the oblique direction can be exhibited well in addition to the horizontal direction.
The swing direction between the courses may be the same in the repeating unit, or the swing direction may be changed. If the swing direction is changed to the left and right, it is easy to exhibit good elongation and power in a balanced manner in both the left and right diagonal directions. It is preferable to change the swing direction alternately left and right for each course.

The following organization organization which changed the above organization organization a little can also be employ | adopted.
Courses that overlap between a plurality of needles in the same course can be arranged not every course but every two courses. In this case, a course in which a plurality of needles overlap in the same course and a course in which one needle overlaps in the same course can be alternately arranged. The course that overlaps between multiple needles in the same course mainly contributes to the stretchability in the horizontal direction, and the course that overlaps one needle in the same course mainly contributes to the stretchability in the vertical direction. You can adjust the balance of vertical, horizontal, and diagonal expansion / contraction functions.
Moreover, the place which is swung in the wale direction by the swing width of 1 wale from the previous course between the courses and moves to the next course can be arranged every two courses instead of every course. In this case, in the course that overlaps between multiple needles in the same course, the transition from the previous course or the transition to the subsequent course is swung in the wal direction with a swing width of one wal. . It is possible to make a transition on the same wales at a transition point on the opposite side of the transition point swung in the wal direction with a swing width of one wal. Locations that move on the same wales mainly contribute to the stretchability in the vertical direction, and locations that move by moving in the wales direction with a width of 1 wal mainly contribute to the stretchability in the horizontal and diagonal directions. To do. The balance of vertical / horizontal / diagonal expansion / contraction function can be adjusted.

As a specific knitting organization B, a knitting organization having a repeating unit such as 31/02 //, 31/12/02/21 //, or the like can be employed.
[Elastic yarn used for knitting structure B]
As the material of the elastic yarn, the same material as the elastic yarn used in a normal stretch warp knitted fabric can be adopted. For example, polyurethane elastic yarn can be used. A highly elastic polyurethane yarn known as spandex can be used. A coated elastic yarn obtained by coating an elastic yarn with an inelastic yarn can also be used.
An elastic yarn having an elongation of 200% or more can be used. Preferably, the elongation is 400% or more.

The thickness of the elastic yarn can be set to 15 to 156 dtex. More preferably, it is 33-78 dtex. The thicker the elastic yarn, the stronger the stretchability. However, if the elastic yarn is too thick, the fabric becomes thick or the appearance quality deteriorates. In particular, since the knitted structure B forms a loop in all the courses, the elastic yarn that is too thick tends to make the fabric thick and the surface quality is likely to be impaired. By setting the elastic yarn of the knitting structure B to be relatively thin and thickening the elastic yarn of the knitting structure C described later, the stretchability of the stretch warp knitted fabric can be ensured.
[Knitting structure C of elastic yarn]
The knitting structure B alone has a function of imparting stretchability and other characteristics insufficient to the stretchable knitted fabric.

In the knitting structure C, unlike the knitting structure B which is based on the second stitch, the second elastic yarns are inserted by being alternately swung left and right with a swing width of one wal for each course. This is a so-called zigzag insertion structure, and becomes a repeating unit of 00/11 //.
The knitting structure C is mainly involved in the stretchability in the vertical direction, and contributes to curling prevention and anti-glare prevention. Combined with the fact that the knitting structure B exhibits excellent stretchability in the horizontal direction and the diagonal direction, the elastic warp knitted fabric is imparted with a stretchable function that is balanced in any of the vertical, horizontal, and diagonal directions. be able to.
[Elastic yarn used for knitting structure C]
Basically, a yarn material common to the elastic yarn used for the knitting structure B can be used. The elongation of the elastic yarn can be set within the same range.

The thickness of the elastic yarn is less restricted than the elastic yarn of the knitted structure B described above, and can be set in a relatively wide range. Usually, it can be set in the range of 33 to 390 dtex. Preferably, it is 55 to 235 dtex. The thicker the elastic yarn, the better the stretchability. If the elastic yarn is too thick, the fabric becomes thicker or the appearance quality deteriorates. However, in the case of the knitted structure C that is an insertion structure that does not form a loop, even if the elastic yarn becomes thick, the influence on the thickness and surface quality of the fabric is relatively small. Therefore, by using an elastic yarn that is the same as or thicker than the knitted structure B, an expansion / contraction function that is insufficient with the knitted structure B alone can be further improved.
[Knitting organization D]
In addition to the knitted structures A to C, a knitted structure D into which a second inelastic yarn having a different material and characteristics from the inelastic yarn of the knitted structure A is inserted can be further provided.

Since basic characteristics such as stretchability and strength of the elastic warp knitted fabric are achieved by a combination of the knitting structures A to C, the knitting structure D performs an additional function in addition to such basic characteristics. It is effective for. For example, the stretchable fabric can be provided with functions such as hygroscopicity and heat retention. Surface quality such as touch and slipperiness can also be improved. Deodorant and antibacterial properties can also be imparted.
The knitting structure D can achieve the intended function, and can employ an insertion structure in a normal warp knitted fabric as long as the basic characteristics of the knitting structures A to C are not impaired. Specifically, a knitted structure having a repeating unit such as 11/00/11/22 //, 11/00/00/00/11/11 //, or the like can be employed. If it is an insertion structure and it is an inelastic thread, it has little influence on stretchability.

The knitting structure D may be one type of knitting structure composed of one type of inelastic yarn, or the type of inelastic yarn may be changed in the same knitting structure, or different knitting structures may be combined.
[Inelastic yarn used for knitting structure D]
Basically, a technique common to the inelastic yarn of the knitted structure A described above can be employed.
However, in the knitting structure D, which does not require much involvement in basic fabric characteristics, the yarn material can be selected relatively freely. Since it is an inserted tissue, it does not affect the thickness of the fabric. A yarn material having excellent functions such as hygroscopicity as described above is used. In this respect, the inelastic yarn used for the knitting structure D can be called a functional yarn in order to distinguish it from the inelastic yarn of the knitting structure A.

Specifically, inelastic yarn made of cotton, wool, silk, rayon, synthetic fiber or the like can be used. These yarn materials can be blended with components that improve hygroscopicity, deodorization, and other functions, or can be subjected to treatments that improve the intended functions. The yarn thickness can be set to 22-235 dtex. Preferably it is 55 to 167 dtex.
[Other organization]
In addition to the knitting structures A to D described above, an elastic warp knitted fabric can be configured by combining elastic yarns or another knitting structure using elastic yarns.
For example, it is possible to combine a knitted structure that becomes a pattern or a pattern of inelastic yarn or elastic yarn. As with the knitting structure A, a knitting structure of inelastic yarn constituting the ground structure can be added, or an insertion structure with an elastic yarn different from the knitting structure C can be added.

Specifically, in order to obtain a hem-specific stretch warp knitted fabric, a knitting structure comprising a connecting yarn that is extracted after dyeing is added, or a knitting structure that is partially made of elastic yarn of different thickness is added. And knitted fabrics of elastic yarns with different numbers such as two or three.
[Knitting of elastic warp knitted fabric]
Basically, a knitting device and a knitting method common to ordinary stretch warp knitted fabrics can be applied.
The warp knitting machine used for knitting needs to have three or more ridges. In order to form a pattern or a pattern or to give a special function, it may be necessary to use a warp knitting machine having four or more wrinkles depending on the knitting structure.

As the warp knitting machine, a tricot knitting machine, a Russell knitting machine, and a knitting machine with a jacquard mechanism can be used.
Usually, the knitting structure A of inelastic yarn is knitted with a front heel, the knitting structure B of elastic yarn is knitted with a middle heel, and the knitting structure C of elastic yarn is knitted with a back heel. However, the combination of the organization and the heel can be changed. In the case of a warp knitting machine including a plurality of middle ridges, another knitted organization can be knitted with a part of the middle ridge or a back ridge and combined with the knitting organizations A to C. In order to knit the knitted structure D of inelastic yarn, four ridges are required.
By adjusting the yarn supply amount of each yarn in each kite, characteristics such as stretchability and design properties can be changed. Usually, the knitting structure A of inelastic yarn can be knitted with a yarn supply amount of 700 to 1600 mm / R. The knitting structure B of elastic yarn can be knitted at a yarn supply amount of 1500 to 2750 mm / R (ST. 100%). The knitting structure C of elastic yarn can be knitted with a yarn supply amount of 85 to 160 mm / R (ST. 100%). When adding a knitting structure D of inelastic yarn, the yarn can be knitted at a yarn supply amount of 200 to 400 mm / R.

Here, the yarn feed amount unit [mm / R (ST. 100%)] means the yarn feed amount mm / R when the warp stretch (ST.) Is set to 100%. In the production of an actual warp knitted fabric, when the warp stretch (ST.) Is set to a numerical condition other than 100%, the ST. The yarn feed amount mm / R (ST. 100%) when converted to 100% is set within the specified range.
The finishing amount of the stretch warp knitted fabric varies depending on the knitting conditions such as the thickness of the yarn to be used, the knitting structure, and the amount of yarn to be fed, but usually 80 to 160 c / in and 35 to 55 w / in are obtained. In particular, a thin fabric can be obtained by making the wale finish quality w / in relatively small.

The knitted warp knitted fabric becomes a stretch warp knitted fabric product through processing steps performed on a normal stretch warp knitted fabric such as a set process, a scouring process, and a dyeing process.
In particular, by the set process, the elastic yarn is bonded by causing thermal fusion at the crossing portion or the stitch portion of the yarns, so that resistance to tearing is increased and burst strength is improved. The processing conditions for the set processing differ depending on the types and characteristics of the inelastic yarn and elastic yarn to be used, but usually heat setting processing at 180 to 195 ° C. is employed.
[Elastic warp knitted fabric]
The produced elastic warp knitted fabric can exhibit balanced elongation and power in any of vertical, horizontal, and diagonal directions by the combined structure of the knitting structures A to C. In addition, it has a good surface texture, is difficult to tear from the cut edge, and has an excellent bursting strength. The problem of curling is also eliminated.

The fabric thickness of the elastic warp knitted fabric varies depending on the knitting conditions such as the thickness of the yarn to be used, the knitting structure, and the amount of yarn to be fed, but can usually be set to 0.4 to 0.8 mm. Preferably, the fabric thickness is 0.5 to 0.6 mm.
<Elastic properties>
The basic stretch properties of stretch warp knitted fabrics include elongation (elongation) and power. Elongation and power are measured by conventional methods. Specifically, the elongation is defined by a value measured at the first elongation under a load of 2.25 kgf (44.13 N) in a tensile test of the fabric. The power is defined by the value measured at the third extension when the tensile test is performed at 80% extension. If necessary, the power at 30% extension and the power at 50% extension can be evaluated.

Tensile tests can be performed in each of the warp direction, the horizontal direction, the right diagonal direction, and the left diagonal direction of the fabric. The elongation and power in the oblique direction can be defined by the average value of the right oblique direction and the left oblique direction. If there is not much difference in numerical values between the right diagonal direction and the left diagonal direction, it can be represented by either one of the measured values.
As specific numerical conditions of the elastic warp knitted fabric, it is possible to set the elongation in the warp direction to 140 to 350% (load 2.25 kgf, the same applies hereinafter) and the power 200 to 1500 g (80% elongation, the same applies hereinafter). In the following, unless otherwise specified, the elongation is a value at a load of 2.25 kgf, and the power is the power at 80% elongation. In the case of other conditions, the conditions are added. The elongation in the horizontal direction can be set to 140 to 300%, and the power can be set to 160 to 1500 g. The elongation in the oblique direction (both left and right) can be set to 140 to 350%, and the power can be set to 160 to 1500 g. The power in the horizontal direction and the diagonal direction may be set to a power of 200 g or more as in the vertical direction.

More preferably, the elongation in the vertical direction can be set to 150 to 250% and the power can be set to 350 to 600 g. The elongation in the horizontal direction can be set to 150 to 250% and the power can be set to 350 to 600 g. The elongation in the oblique direction can be set to 1500 to 250%, and the power can be set to 300 to 600 g.
Elongation recovery is also important. The stretch recovery property is measured by the length (%) after stretching with respect to before stretching in the tensile test. It can be measured at the first extension or at the third extension. The elongation recovery property (first time, the same applies hereinafter) can be set to 90% or more. Preferably, it is 93% or more.
<Other characteristics>
Tear strength and burst strength are measured as characteristics for evaluating the ease of tearing and fraying during use.

Those having high tear strength are preferred, and specifically, the tear strength can be set to 490 CN or more. The tear strength is preferably 700 CN or more, and more preferably the tear strength is 1050 CN or more. Moreover, a thing with high burst strength is preferable, and it can set to burst strength 150kPa or more. More preferably, the burst strength is 200 kPa or more.
In addition, when trying to increase the tear strength or the burst strength, the expansion / contraction function becomes weak, and conversely, when the expansion / contraction function is increased, the tear strength or the burst strength tends to decrease. It is desirable to adjust the yarn to be used and the knitting conditions so that these characteristics can be set in an appropriate range in accordance with the application to be used and the required performance.

Fraying properties, curling properties, and translucency are also evaluated by conventional methods. Of course, those having no fraying and curling properties are preferred. As for the curling property, it is preferable that the curl angle measured by the measuring method described in the examples described later is 45 ° or less. More preferably, the curl degree is 10 ° or less.
In ordinary clothing, it is desirable to have a little sheer feeling. There is a case where a certain degree of sheer feeling is given in terms of design properties.
[Use]
It can be used for applications in which ordinary stretch warp knitted fabric is used. In particular, it is suitable for various clothing items that require a stretch warp knitted fabric with good appearance and good wearing feeling. It is particularly suitable for inner clothing such as foundation clothing. It is also suitable for outer clothing such as sports clothing. It is suitable for clothing that does not perform edge processing on the cut edge.

The stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention includes a specific knitted structure A made of non-elastic yarns serving as a ground structure, a specific knitted structure B corresponding to a second stitch formed by first elastic yarns, and a second elastic yarn. By combining with a specific knitting structure C into which the knitted fabric is inserted, compared to the conventional elastic warp knitted fabric that employs the second stitch of elastic yarn, it is possible to balance in the diagonal direction as well as in the vertical and horizontal directions. Excellent elongation and power.
In particular, the knitting structure B made of the first elastic yarn and the knitting structure C made of the second elastic thread are combined as the knitting structure made of the elastic yarn. In the knitting structure B, the elastic yarn not only overlaps in the horizontal direction but also diagonally. By having the part which moves to a direction, the favorable expansion-contraction function balanced in all the above-mentioned directions can be achieved. The knitting structure B alone does not have the knitting structure C, and even if the knitting structure is devised no matter how the thickness of the elastic yarn is changed, the elongation and power in the vertical / horizontal / diagonal direction and power are balanced. It is difficult to make it.

Moreover, by providing the knitted structure C, the occurrence of curling due to excessive expansion and contraction in a specific direction is effectively suppressed. The burst strength and tear strength are also improved. In particular, even if the knitting structures A and B are devised so that the elongation and power are appropriate, it is difficult to sufficiently prevent the curling, but the addition of the knitting structure C can prevent the curling from occurring well. .
Conventionally, in order to give priority to curling prevention, the knitting structures A and B are sometimes greatly restricted. However, if the anti-curl function is improved by the knitting structure C, the knitting structures A and B are not greatly restricted, and the performance such as elongation and power described above can be further enhanced.

  As a result, it has excellent use performance in various fields such as sports apparel and inner apparel that are thin and excellent in stretch function, and also need fabrics that are superior in burst strength, tear strength, curl prevention, etc. Is possible.

[Organizational organization]
FIG. 1 schematically shows an individual knitting structure of each yarn constituting the elastic warp knitted fabric, and FIG. 2 schematically shows a knitting structure at the time of knitted elastic warp knitting.
In FIG. 1, the knitting structure A of the inelastic yarn 10 knitted by the first ridge [G1] of the knitting apparatus is composed of repeating units of 12/23/21/10 //. The knitting structure B of the elastic yarn 20 knitted with the second kite [G2] is composed of repeating units of 31/02 //, and constitutes a second stitch. In the figure, it can be seen that the elastic yarn 20 extends in the horizontal direction on the same course, and is shifted alternately left and right in the diagonal direction between the courses. The knitting structure C of the elastic yarn 30 knitted by the third kite [G3] is composed of repeating units of 00/11 //, and is an insertion structure inserted into a zigzag while being swung alternately on the left and right. Yes.

  In the knitting organization of the entire knitted fabric shown in FIG. 2, all the knitting organizations A to C are knitted in a full set. In all the stitches, the non-elastic yarn 10 and the elastic yarn 20 are entangled in a loop. The elastic yarn 30 is inserted into each wale in the vertical direction. Of the elastic yarn 20, the portion extending in the horizontal direction is greatly related to the stretchability in the horizontal direction, and the portion extending in the diagonal direction is greatly related to the stretchability in the diagonal direction. Further, since the elastic yarn 30 extends in the vertical direction, it is greatly involved in the stretchability in the vertical direction. However, the elastic function by the elastic yarns 20 and 30 acts in a complex manner in a vertical, horizontal and diagonal manner, and the balance of the elastic properties in each direction is also affected by the combination of the elastic yarns 20 and 30 and the difference in the amount of yarn supplied. Changes.

[Another embodiment (1)]
In the embodiment shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, the knitting structure of each yarn in the elastic warp knitted fabric is basically the same as that in the above embodiment, but is partially different.
The knitting structure A of the inelastic yarn 10, the knitting structure B of the elastic yarn 20, and the knitting structure C of the elastic yarn 30 are the same as those in the above embodiment, and the description thereof is omitted.
A knitted structure D made of inelastic yarn 40 such as cotton having excellent hygroscopicity is combined. The knitting structure D is an insertion structure similar to the knitting structure C, but the swing width in the wale direction is different.
The knitting structures A to D of each yarn are summarized by the following symbols.

Knitted structure A = inelastic yarn 10, ridge [G1]: 12/23/21/10 //.
Knitting organization B = elastic yarn 20, cocoon [G2]: 31/02 //.
Knitted structure C = elastic yarn 30, ridge [G3]: 00/11 //.
Knitted structure D = functional yarn (non-elastic yarn) 40, cocoon [G4]: 11/00/11/22 //.
In the case of a stretch warp knitted fabric having such a knitted structure, the basic stretch function and fabric characteristics are fulfilled by the knitted structures AC. The function of improving hygroscopicity by the functional yarn 40 used for the knitting structure D is added thereto. A highly hygroscopic fabric preferable for sports clothing and inner clothing can be obtained. Note that the knitted structure D only has the functional yarn 40, which is an inelastic yarn, inserted therein, and therefore does not significantly affect the expansion / contraction function of the elastic yarns 20 and 30. If the inelastic yarn 40 of the knitted structure D is changed to a yarn material having another function, another function can be imparted.

[Another embodiment (2)]
The embodiment shown in FIG. 5 differs from the embodiment shown in FIGS. That is, the following organization organization is combined.
Knitted structure A = inelastic yarn 10, ridge [G1]: 21/23/21/12/10/12 //.
Knitting organization B = elastic yarn 20, cocoon [G2]: 31/02 //.
Knitted structure C = elastic yarn 30, ridge [G3]: 00/11 //.
The stretch characteristics of the elastic warp knitted fabric are basically determined by the knitting structures B and C using the elastic yarns 20 and 30, but the knitting structure A by the non-elastic yarn 10 which is the basic structure of the warp knitted fabric is changed. Depending on the situation, the basic quality properties of the stretch warp knitted fabric and the stretch properties differ.

In the knitting organization A employed in this embodiment, compared to the knitting organization A shown in FIG. 1, there is a portion that shifts in the vertical direction between courses, so that the power in the vertical direction is increased. be able to. Although the degree of elongation in the vertical direction is slightly reduced, sufficient elongation can be demonstrated practically.
[Another embodiment (3)]
The embodiment shown in FIG. 6 differs from the embodiment shown in FIG. That is, the following organization organization is combined.
Knitted structure A = inelastic yarn 10, ridge [G1]: 23/21/10/12 //.
Knitted structure B = elastic yarn 20, cocoon [G2]: 31/12/02/21 //.

Knitted structure C = elastic yarn 30, ridge [G3]: 11/00 //.
In the knitting structure B, the elastic yarn 20 is alternately arranged with a course that forms a second stitch by an overlap between two stitches and a course that has an overlap of only one stitch. As for the transition between courses, the transition on the same wales and the transition on the adjacent wales are alternately arranged. As a result, the expansion and contraction characteristics that combine the expansion and contraction function in the horizontal direction by the second stitch, the expansion and contraction function by moving in the diagonal direction between courses, and the expansion and contraction function by moving in the vertical direction on the same wale Will be shown.
Compared to the embodiment of FIG. 1 described above, vertical, horizontal, and oblique elongation are exhibited in a balanced manner. Of course, the overall stretch characteristics of the stretchable warp knitted fabric vary depending on the thickness of the elastic yarn 20 and the combination with other knitted structures A and B.

[Example of changing organization B]
Further, FIGS. 7A to 7C show a case where the knitted structure B of the elastic yarn 20 is different from the above embodiment.
FIG. 7A shows a knitting organization B that is common to FIG. 1 except that the overlap in the same course is set between three stitches. Specifically, it has a repeating unit of 03/41 //.
FIG. 7B has a repeating unit of 20/13 //, and FIG. 7C has a repeating unit of 20/20 //.

  In any of the cases shown in FIGS. 7A to 7C, the elastic yarn 20 is shifted diagonally between courses. However, in FIGS. 7 (a) and 7 (b), the left and right alternate diagonal directions are shown, but in FIG. 7 (c), the same direction is used for all courses.

The stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention was manufactured and its performance was evaluated.
As a knitting device, a Raschel machine manufactured by KARL MAYER, type RSE4N3K, 56GG was used.
In the performance evaluation of the stretch warp knitted fabric, the curl angle is a value obtained by the following measurement method.
[Curl angle]
The measurement shown in FIG. 8 is performed.
The test piece S cut out from the target elastic warp knitted fabric is placed on a flat table. When the end of the test piece S is curved to cause curling, the end point P of the test piece S is a line obtained by extending the direction in which the test piece S extends in a straight line, in other words, curved at the end point P of the test piece S. Assume a curve tangent T. The rotation angle θ from the tangent line T to the horizontal plane H is measured to obtain the curl angle θ. The measurement result also includes the curled direction.

If there is no curl, the curl angle θ = 0 °, and the greater the curl angle, the more severe the curl. When the curl makes one turn, the curl angle θ exceeds 360 °.
[Example 1]
<Knitting conditions>
Each of the knitting structures A to C shown in FIG. 1 was knitted with the following thread use to produce a stretch warp knitted fabric shown in FIG.
Knitting organization A: cocoon [G1], nylon 66, 44-34 bright (manufactured by Nyloster)
Knitting organization B: 筬 [G2], Lycra 50-906 (B) (manufactured by Operontex)
Knitting organization C: 筬 [G3], Lycra 50-906 (B) (manufactured by Operontex)
All are full sets, and the yarn feed amount of each yarn is as follows.

[G1]: Yarn supply amount 1190 mm / R
[G2]: Yarn feed amount 2000 mm / R (ST. 100%)
[G3]: Yarn feed amount 120 mm / R (ST. 100%)
Finishing amounts were 136 c / in and 50 w / in.
<Knitting properties>
Various characteristic values of the knitted fabric were measured by a conventional method.
First, a tensile test was performed to obtain the following stretch characteristic values. In the table, the elongation is a value measured at the first elongation of the tensile test. The measured values at loads other than the basic load of 2.25 kgf are also shown. The power is indicated by the value measured at the third extension. Moreover, the measured value in elongation rate other than 80% elongation used as a base is also shown. The power is a value measured at both loading (L) and unloading (UL) as [L / UL]. The elongation recovery property indicates a value measured at each of the first elongation (1st) and the third elongation (3rd).

The burst strength, tear strength, and curl angle were measured by conventional methods.
Burst strength: 294 kPa.
Tear strength: 1390CN.
Curl angle: 0 ° (no curl at all).
[Example 2]
<Knitting conditions>
The knitting organization shown in FIG. 5 was adopted. Specifically, in Example 1, the knitting structure B is common only by changing the knitting structure A by the inelastic yarn 10.

Knitting organization A: 21/23/21/12/10 //.
Yarn usage was as follows.
Knitting organization A: cocoon [G1], nylon 66, 44-34 Bright (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.)
Knitting organization B: 筬 [G2], Lycra 50-906 (B) (manufactured by Operontex)
Knitting organization C: 筬 [G3], Lycra 50-906 (B) (manufactured by Operontex)
All are full sets, and the yarn feed amount of each yarn is as follows.
[G1]: Yarn supply amount 1160 mm / R
[G2]: Yarn supply amount 2050 mm / R (ST. 100%)
[G3]: Yarn supply amount 110 mm / R (ST. 100%)
Finishing amounts were 132c / in and 49w / in.

<Knitting properties>
Various characteristic values were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

Burst strength: 265 kPa.
Tear strength: 1293CN.
Curl angle: 0 ° (no curl at all).
Example 3
<Knitting conditions>
Each of the knitting structures A to D shown in FIG. 3 was knitted with the following thread use to produce a stretch warp knitted fabric shown in FIG. Basically, the knitting structure D was added to the yarn use and the knitting structure of Example 1.
Knitting organization A: cocoon [G1], nylon 66, 44-34 bright (manufactured by Nyloster)
Knitting organization B: 筬 [G2], Lycra 50-906 (B) (manufactured by Operontex)
Knitting organization C: 筬 [G3], Lycra 50-906 (B) (manufactured by Operontex)
Knitting organization D: cocoon [G4], cotton 80'S (Nisshinbo Co., Ltd.)
All are full sets, and the yarn feed amount of each yarn is as follows.

[G1]: Yarn supply amount 1250 mm / R
[G2]: Yarn supply amount 2070 mm / R (ST. 100%)
[G3]: Yarn feed amount 120 mm / R (ST. 100%)
[G4]: Yarn supply amount 290 mm / R
Finishing amounts were 116 c / in and 48.5 w / in.
<Knitting properties>
Various characteristic values were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

Burst strength: 343 kPa.
Tear strength: 1430CN.
Curl angle: 0 ° (no curl at all).
Example 4
<Knitting conditions>
Although the same knitting structure and yarn use as in Example 3 were adopted, the inelastic yarn used for the knitting structure D was changed.
Knitting organization A: cocoon [G1], nylon 66, 44-34 bright (manufactured by Nyloster)
Knitting organization B: 筬 [G2], Lycra 50-906 (B) (manufactured by Operontex)
Knitting organization C: 筬 [G3], Lycra 50-906 (B) (manufactured by Operontex)
Knitting organization D: cocoon [G4], cotton 140 ′S / W, Ny33T (Nisshinbo Co., Ltd./Toray Industries, Inc.)
All are full sets, and the yarn feed amount of each yarn is as follows.

[G1]: Yarn supply amount 1250 mm / R
[G2]: Yarn supply amount 2070 mm / R (ST. 100%)
[G3]: Yarn feed amount 120 mm / R (ST. 100%)
[G4]: Yarn feed amount 250 mm / R
The amount of finish was 116 c / in and 37.5 w / in.
<Knitting properties>
Various characteristic values were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

Burst strength: 314 kPa.
Tear strength: 1419CN.
Curling angle: 10 ° (slight curling is observed).
Example 5
<Knitting conditions>
Each knitting structure A to C shown in FIG. 6 was knitted with the following thread use. Basically, only the knitting structure B is changed in the yarn use and the knitting structure of the first embodiment.
Knitting organization A: cocoon [G1], nylon 66, 44-34 bright (manufactured by Nyloster)
Knitting organization B: 筬 [G2], Lycra 50-906 (B) (manufactured by Operontex)
Knitting organization C: 筬 [G3], Lycra 50-906 (B) (manufactured by Operontex)
All are full sets, and the yarn feed amount of each yarn is as follows.

[G1]: Yarn feed amount 1200 mm / R
[G2]: Yarn supply amount 1400 mm / R (ST. 100%)
[G3]: Yarn feed amount 150 mm / R (ST. 100%)
The amount of finish was 126 c / in and 51.5 w / in.
<Knitting properties>
Various characteristic values were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

Burst strength: 245 kPa.
Tear strength: 1110 CN.
Curl angle: 0 ° (no curl at all).
[Comparative Example 1]
<Knitting conditions>
Only knitting organizations corresponding to the knitting organizations A and B were knitted.
Knitting organization A: 10/12 //.
筬 [G1], nylon 6, 33-6 semidal variant (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.)
Knitting organization B: 31/02 //.

筬 [G2], Lycra 44-127C (manufactured by Operontex)
All are full sets, and the yarn feed amount of each yarn is as follows.
[G1]: Yarn supply amount 1350 mm / R
[G2]: Yarn supply amount 1900 mm / R (ST. 100%)
Finishing amounts were 122c / in and 60w / in.
<Knitting properties>
Various characteristic values were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

Burst strength: 186 kPa.
Tear strength: 1009CN.
Curl angle: 360 ° (back curl, unusable).
[Evaluation]
(1) Compared to the technique of Comparative Example 1 which is composed of knitting structures A and B and does not have the knitting structure C, the technique of each example is about the thickness of the yarn used in terms of elongation, power, and stretch recovery. Considering differences such as this, they are almost equal or superior. The burst strength and tear strength are clearly excellent. There is a significant difference in curling properties expressed by the curl angle.

As in Comparative Example 1, an elastic warp knitted fabric that generates a large curl is difficult to use for fashion apparel and the like even though it has an excellent stretch function. In particular, it cannot be used when the fabric is used without hem treatment with the edge of the fabric cut off.
(2) Among the examples, it can be seen that the characteristics of the knitted fabric differ when the knitting structures A to D are changed.
For example, Example 1 and Example 2 differ considerably in elongation and power because the knitted structure A of inelastic yarn is different. In particular, the vertical, horizontal, and diagonal balances are different. It can be seen that the characteristics of the elastic warp knitted fabric are affected not only by the knitting structures B and C made of elastic yarn but also by the knitting structure A of inelastic yarn.

(3) In Examples 3 and 4, the addition of the knitting structure D made of cotton to Example 1 adds to the properties such as excellent hygroscopicity and touch by cotton, but the properties such as elongation and power are added. There is also a difference.
Even in Example 3 and Example 4 in which the cotton yarn of the knitting structure D is different, characteristics such as elongation and power are different. In Example 4, although the curl angle is 10 ° and slightly curled, it is practically not problematic.
By adding the knitting structure D, not only the function of the functional yarn constituting the knitting structure D is added, but also various characteristics of the elastic warp knitted fabric are different. It is desirable to design.

(4) Example 5 is different from Example 1 in organization organization B. The knitting structure B of Example 5 is slightly different from a general two-dimensional knitting structure.
In the fifth embodiment, the power is smaller than that in the first embodiment, but the balance between vertical, horizontal, and diagonal elongation is improved.

  The stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention can be suitably used as a material for inner clothing, for example. It is possible to exhibit characteristics such as a well-balanced expansion / contraction function and compensation function in both the vertical / horizontal and diagonal directions required for inner clothing. Highly fashionable inner that does not easily cause fraying or tearing from the cut edge and is less likely to curl. Apparel can be provided.

The knitting | organization organization chart of each constituent yarn of the elastic warp knitted fabric showing embodiment of this invention Organization chart of stretch warp knitted fabric Knitting organization chart of each constituent yarn representing another embodiment Organization chart of stretch warp knitted fabric Knitting organization chart of each component yarn of stretch warp knitted fabric showing another embodiment Knitting organization chart of each component yarn of stretch warp knitted fabric showing another embodiment The organization chart of organization B showing another embodiment Schematic diagram showing the curl angle measurement method

Explanation of symbols

10 Inelastic yarn 20 First elastic yarn 30 Second elastic yarn 40 Functional yarn (inelastic yarn)
AD organization organization G1-G4 筬

Claims (7)

An elastic warp knitted fabric knitted by combining non-elastic yarn and elastic yarn,
The knitting structure A in which the inelastic yarn is swung in the wale direction with a swing width of 2 wales in one repeat unit with a swing width of 1 wal for each course to form a loop in all courses;
Of the elastic yarns, the first elastic yarn is swung in the wale direction with a swing width of one wale from the previous course, and moves to the next course from the previous course in the course where the plurality of needles overlap in the same course. Organizational organization B which has a part for every course or every two courses and forms a loop in all courses;
A stretch warp knitted fabric provided with a knitting structure C in which a second elastic yarn among the elastic yarns is inserted by being alternately swung left and right with a swing width of one wal for each course. The inelastic yarn of the knitted structure A has a thickness of 15 to 77 dtex,
The elastic yarn of the knitted structure B has a thickness of 15 to 156 dtex,
The elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn of the knitted structure C has a thickness of 33 to 390 dtex. The knitting structure A has a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 12/23/21/10 // and 21/23/21/12/10/10/12 /
The stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the knitted structure B has a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 31/02 // and 31/12/02/21 //. The elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising a knitted structure D into which a second inelastic yarn different from the inelastic yarn of the knitted structure A is inserted. The knitting structure D has a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 11/00/11/22 // and 11/00/00/00/11/11 //
The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the inelastic yarn of the knitted structure D is selected from the group consisting of cotton, wool, silk, and synthetic fibers and has a thickness of 22 to 235 dtex. . The elongation in the vertical direction is 140 to 350% (load 2.25 kgf, first time, the same applies below), power 200-1500 g (80% extension, the same applies below),
The elongation in the horizontal direction is 140 to 300%, and the power is 160 to 1500 g.
The elongation in the oblique direction is 140 to 350%, and the power is 160 to 1500 g.
Tear strength of 490 CN or more,
Burst strength is 150 kPa or more,
The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which has a curl angle of 45 ° or less. A method for producing the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6,
Using a warp knitting machine with 3 or more wrinkles,
With the first ridge, the knitted structure A made of the inelastic yarn is knitted at a yarn supply amount of 700 to 1600 mm / R,
Using a second kite, the knitted structure B made of the first elastic yarn is knitted at a yarn supply amount of 1500 to 2750 mm / R (ST. 100%),
A method for producing a stretch warp knitted fabric in which a knitted structure C made of the second elastic yarn is knitted at a yarn supply amount of 85 to 160 mm / R (ST. 100%) by a third ridge.

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