JP4317481B2 - Thick stretch warp knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a thick stretch warp knitted fabric and a method for producing the same, and in particular, is used for clothing and the like, and is provided with stretch by knitting elastic yarn and is relatively thick warp knitted fabric, The present invention is directed to a method for producing such a thick stretch warp knitted fabric.

Various techniques for elastic warp knitted fabrics knitted with elastic yarn have been proposed. Stretch warp knitted fabrics with various characteristics have been provided by devising the type, thickness, number, and knitting structure of elastic yarns.
In applications such as apparel, where concealment is enhanced or thick texture is expressed, stretch warp knitted fabric with a thick fabric is required.
In order to increase the thickness of the elastic warp knitted fabric, for example, a knitted structure in which the stitches are densely arranged, a thick elastic yarn, a number of knitted structures of elastic yarn and inelastic yarn, or the number of yarns It is possible to increase the number.

Patent Document 1 discloses a technique for producing a stretch warp knitted fabric that is soft and difficult to see through by combining an inelastic yarn and two types of elastic yarns. In this technique, the inelastic yarn and the first elastic yarn form a loop to form a ground structure, and the second elastic yarn is inserted in a zigzag every course on the same wale.
JP-A-5-331750

If you try to increase the fabric thickness with an elastic warp knitted fabric made of a conventional knitted structure, and increase the thickness and density of the yarn, problems such as the above-mentioned fraying of the end portion are likely to occur, and the appearance will deteriorate. Or the balance of power in both vertical and horizontal directions, and the power balance may deteriorate.
For example, in the technique of Patent Document 1, the stretch characteristic is mainly determined by the second elastic yarn, but if the thickness of the second elastic yarn is increased too much, the power becomes too strong and the elongation decreases. Arise. In addition, since the elastic yarn is easily exposed on the surface, the elastic yarn may be excessively strong in the appearance and texture of the surface, or the end portion may be conspicuous.
The problem of the present invention is that even if the fabric thickness of the elastic warp knitted fabric is increased, problems such as fraying, fluffing, and creaking at the cut end are unlikely to occur, and the surface texture is good and the fabric properties such as being resistant to tearing. It is to provide a thick elastic warp knitted fabric excellent in.

A thick stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention is a thick stretch warp knitted fabric knitted by combining a non-elastic yarn, a relatively thin first elastic yarn and a relatively thick second elastic yarn. The knitted structure of the inelastic yarn has a total swing width of 2 stitches in one repeating unit with a swing width of 2 needles per course, and forms a loop in all the courses. The knitting structure has a swing width of 1 to 2 needles per course, and has a total swing width of 2 to 3 stitches in one repeating unit, forming a loop in all courses, and the knitting structure of the thick second elastic yarn Is inserted with a total swing width of 2 to 5 stitches in one repeat unit with a swing width of 1 to 2 stitches per course.
The knitted structure of the non-elastic yarn has a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 21/32 // and 12/32 //, and the knitted structure of the thin first elastic yarn is 23/21. // and a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 34/32/21/23 //, and the knitted structure of the thick second elastic yarn is 22/44/22/33/11/33 // And a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 11/22/33/22 //.
[Non-elastic yarn]
Yarn materials similar to those of ordinary warp knitted fabric can be used.

The non-elastic yarn is not limited to a yarn having no elasticity at all, but may be a yarn having less elasticity or stretchability than the elastic yarn. Specifically, in the present specification, the inelastic yarn means a yarn having an elongation of less than 100%. A yarn having an elongation of less than 60% is preferable.
Natural fibers such as cotton, synthetic fibers such as nylon, semi-synthetic fibers and regenerated fibers can also be used. Any of filament yarns, spun yarns, and twisted yarns composed of these fibers may be in the form.
The thickness of the inelastic thread can be 16 to 122 dtex, and more preferably 33 to 55 dtex. If the inelastic yarn is sufficiently thick, the thickness of the fabric can be sufficiently secured, and the appearance and surface texture are also improved. If the non-elastic yarn is too thick, the stretchability of the fabric is reduced.

[Knitting structure of inelastic yarn]
The knitted structure of the inelastic yarn constitutes the ground structure of the thick elastic warp knitted fabric together with the first elastic yarn. Each course has a swing width of 2 needles, and a repeat unit has a total swing width of 2 needles to form a loop in all courses. If this condition is provided, it is possible to employ or combine various knitting structures employed as a ground structure of inelastic yarn in a normal stretch warp knitted fabric. A knitted structure that is relatively dense and easy to secure a thickness is preferable because a thick stretch warp knitted fabric is easily formed and the surface texture is good.
Specifically, there are organized organizations such as two-way and satin. More specifically, a knitted structure having a repeating unit such as 21/32 // or 12/32 // can be employed.

[Elastic thread]
As the material of the elastic yarn, the same material as the elastic yarn used in a normal stretch warp knitted fabric can be adopted. For example, polyurethane elastic yarn can be used. A highly elastic polyurethane yarn known as spandex can be used. A coated elastic yarn obtained by coating an elastic yarn with an inelastic yarn can also be used.
An elastic yarn having an elongation of 200% or more can be used. Preferably, the elongation is 400% or more.
Of the two types of elastic yarns, the thickness of the relatively thin first elastic yarn can be set to 22 to 156 dtex. More preferably, it is 44 to 78 dtex.

The thickness of the second elastic yarn, which is relatively thick compared to the first elastic yarn, can be set to be 1.5 to 22 times that of the first elastic yarn within the range of 33 to 940 dtex. More preferably, it is 1.5 to 11 times that of the first elastic yarn in the range of 117 to 470 dtex.
[Knitting structure of elastic yarn]
<Narrow first elastic thread>
Each course has a swing width of 1 to 2 needles and a repeat swing unit having a total swing width of 2 to 3 needles. A loop is formed in all courses, and a ground structure is formed together with the inelastic yarn.
In a normal stretch warp knitted fabric, various knitted structures made of inelastic yarns and elastic yarns constituting the ground structure can be adopted or combined. A knitted structure which is covered with a knitted structure of inelastic yarn and hardly exposed to the surface is preferable. A knitted structure in which the first elastic yarn has a swing opposite to that of the inelastic yarn between the needles is preferable.

Specifically, a knitting structure having a repeating unit such as 23/21 //, 34/32/21/23 //, or the like can be employed.
<Thick second elastic yarn>
Each course is inserted with a swing width of 1 to 2 needles, with a total swing width of 2 to 5 needles per repeat unit.
In an ordinary stretch warp knitted fabric, various knitted structures made of elastic yarns inserted to impart stretchability can be adopted or combined.
Specifically, a knitting structure having a repeating unit such as 22/44/22/33/11/33 //, 11/22/33/22 //, or the like can be employed.

[Knitting of elastic warp knitted fabric]
A stretch warp knitted fabric is knitted by combining the knitting structures of the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn.
As a knitting device and knitting conditions, basically, the same technique as that of a normal stretch warp knitted fabric can be applied.
As a knitting device, it is necessary to have three or more ridges. Raschel machines, Raschel machines with jacquard mechanisms, tricot machines, etc. can be used.
Usually, a non-elastic yarn is fed to the front heel of the knitting device, a first elastic yarn is fed to the middle heel, and a second elastic yarn is fed to the back heel. Furthermore, a heel for knitting a pattern, a heel for knitting the third elastic yarn, and the like can be added.

The amount of inelastic yarn supplied varies depending on the knitting structure, yarn conditions, required performance, and the like.
A knitted structure made of inelastic yarn can be knitted at a yarn supply amount of 800 to 2000 mm / R.
The knitted structure of the first elastic yarn can be knitted at a yarn supply amount of 800 to 1600 mm / R (ST. 100%). Here, the yarn feed amount unit [mm / R (ST. 100%)] means the yarn feed amount mm / R when the shaping stretch (ST.) Is set to 100%. In the production of the actual warp knitted fabric, when the shaping stretch (ST.) Is set to a numerical condition other than 100%, the ST. The yarn feed amount mm / R (ST. 100%) when converted to 100% is set within the specified range.

The knitted structure of the second elastic yarn can be knitted at a yarn supply amount of 100 to 180 mm / R (ST. 100%).
Furthermore, the yarn supply amount of the thin first elastic yarn can be set to be 4.4 to 16 times the yarn supply amount of the thick second elastic yarn.
The knitted warp knitted fabric becomes a stretch warp knitted fabric product through processing steps performed on a normal stretch warp knitted fabric such as a set process, a scouring process, and a dyeing process.
[Elastic warp knitted fabric]
The manufactured stretch warp knitted fabric is a thick fabric with a sufficiently thick fabric, and has excellent stretch properties, i.e., elongation and power, and good surface texture, high tear strength, and burst strength. This technology has characteristics that were difficult to achieve with this technology.

The fabric thickness of the elastic warp knitted fabric varies depending on the required performance such as appearance and wearability, but can be set to 0.5 to 1.4 mm. More preferably, it is 0.7-1.0 mm.
As the characteristics of the stretch warp knitted fabric, those excellent in elongation and power are preferable. In particular, it is preferable to have a balance between elongation and power, including both vertical and horizontal directions, preferably even in an oblique direction. Usually, it is easy to use the one having higher vertical elongation and power than the horizontal direction.
As specific numerical conditions, it is possible to set the elongation in the vertical direction to 130 to 250% and the power to 700 to 1600 g. The elongation in the horizontal direction can be set to 80 to 300% and the power can be set to 300 to 800 g. More preferably, the elongation in the vertical direction is 150 to 220%, the power is 850 to 1200 g, the elongation in the horizontal direction is 150 to 250%, and the power is 400 to 700 g. Here, elongation and power are measured by conventional methods. Specifically, the elongation is defined by a value measured at the first elongation under a load of 2.25 kgf (44.13 N) in a fabric tensile test. The power is defined by 80% elongation and the value measured at the third elongation.

In order to improve durability at the time of use, those having high tear strength are preferable, and specifically, tear strength can be set to 1000 to 2000 g. More preferably, the tear strength is 1400 g or more. Moreover, a thing with high burst strength is preferable, and it can set to burst strength 24.5-40N / cm < ² >. More preferably, the burst strength is 25 N / cm ² or more.
The stretch characteristics and strength characteristics as described above can be adjusted according to the use of inelastic yarns and elastic yarns, the combination of knitting structures, and knitting conditions.
[Use]
It can be used for applications in which ordinary stretch warp knitted fabric is used. In particular, it is suitable for various clothing items that require a stretch warp knitted fabric with good appearance and good wearing feeling.

  The thick elastic warp knitted fabric according to the present invention is made of an inelastic yarn having a total swing width of 2 stitches in one repeat unit and a loop in all courses with a swing width of 2 stitches per course. A knitted structure composed of two types of elastic yarns having a relatively different thickness is combined with the knitted structure. All the courses that the knitting structure of the thin first elastic yarn that constitutes the ground structure together with the non-elastic yarn has a swing width of 1 to 2 needles per course and a total swing width of 2 to 3 stitches in one repeat unit. Loops are formed, and the thick second elastic yarn is inserted with a swing width of 1 to 2 needles per course and a total swing width of 2 to 5 needles in one repeat unit, so that an inelastic yarn And the first elastic yarn can be entangled at all stitch positions, and the first elastic yarn and the second elastic yarn can be fused and integrated at each stitch position by set processing to be fixed.

  As a result, fraying hardly occurs at the cut end portion of the knitted fabric, and occurrence of meklet and fluffing can be suppressed. Smooth and soft texture with non-elastic yarn is exhibited on both sides. The thin first elastic yarn and the thick second elastic yarn can cooperate to provide a good and balanced stretchability in both vertical and horizontal directions.

FIG. 1 is a knitting structure diagram of a thick stretch warp knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 2 shows a knitting structure for each yarn constituting the thick stretch warp knitted fabric.
In FIG. 2, the knitted structure of the inelastic yarn 10 knitted by the front ridge [F] of the knitting device is alternately swung left and right with a swing width of two stitches for each course, and the opening and closing eyes are alternately turned. Repeatedly, loops are formed in all courses. The total swing width in one repeating unit is also 2 stitches.
The knitting structure of the first elastic yarn 20 knitted with the middle rod [M] is swung alternately left and right with a swing width of two stitches for each course, like the knitting structure of the non-elastic yarn 10. A loop is formed by the closed eyes. The total swing width in one repeating unit is also 2 stitches.

The knitting structure of the second elastic yarn 30 knitted by the back rod [B] has a total swing width of 3 stitches in one repeating unit consisting of 6 courses with a swing width of 1 or 2 stitches per course, and a loop. Is inserted without forming.
When the knitting structure of each yarn is summarized, it is represented by the following symbols.
Front heel [F]: 21/32 //.
Middle basket [M]: 23/21 //.
Bag [B]: 22/44/22/33/11/33 //.
In the knitted structure of the entire knitted fabric shown in FIG. 1, the inelastic yarn 10 and the first elastic yarn 20 are entangled with each other in a loop. The non-elastic yarn 10 and the first elastic yarn 20 intersect with each other with a reverse swing between the needles. Further, the second elastic yarn 30 intersects the first elastic yarn 20 at each stitch position. When the set processing is performed on the knitted fabric after knitting, the first elastic yarn 20 and the second elastic yarn 30 are fused and integrated with each other at each stitch position intersecting each other. The loop of the first elastic yarn 20 is fixed.

The characteristics of the thick elastic warp knitted fabric will be schematically described. The inelastic yarn 10 and the first elastic yarn constitute a ground structure, and constitute the basic structure of the knitted fabric. The first elastic yarn 20 and the second elastic yarn 30 impart stretchability. Since the non-elastic yarn 10 and the first elastic yarn 20 are closely arranged at all stitch positions, the thickness of the stitch is sufficiently secured, and the resulting fabric has a concealing property and a thick texture. Can be given. A smooth and soft texture with the non-elastic yarn 10 is obtained.
Since the second elastic yarn 30 is inserted into the knitted fabric and has a thickness, the second elastic yarn 30 exhibits strong stretchability. In addition, since the second elastic yarn 30 is sufficiently swung in the wale direction, the stretchability of the second elastic yarn 30 is basically strongly expressed in the vertical direction and is also excellent in the horizontal direction. Is done. In FIG. 1 showing the knitted state, the second elastic yarn 30 is shown in a meandering direction from side to side, but in the knitted fabric product after production, the second elastic yarn 30 is in a state of linearly extending. Then, the knitted structure of the inelastic yarn 10 and the first elastic yarn 20 is deformed. Such a deformation state of the second elastic yarn 30, the non-elastic yarn 10 and the first elastic yarn 20 also serves to prevent the yarns from fraying and extending for a long time at the cut end portion of the knitted fabric.

Since the first elastic yarn 20 forms a loop at all stitch positions, the stretchability imparted by the first elastic yarn 20 is weak compared to the second elastic yarn 30 of the insertion structure, but the second elasticity Complements the stretchability of the yarn 30 and fulfills the function of exerting a stretchability that is balanced in both vertical and horizontal directions.
Since the first elastic yarn 20 and the second elastic yarn 30 are fused and integrated, and the first elastic yarn 20 and the non-elastic yarn 10 are entangled at all stitch positions, fraying and fluffing hardly occur. Become. When the thick elastic warp knitted fabric is cut, the respective yarns 10 to 30 are cut as shown in the end side of FIG. At this time, as described above, the first elastic yarn 20 and the second elastic yarn 30 are fused and integrated, and the first elastic yarn 20 and the inelastic yarn 10 are entangled and fixed at all stitch positions. It is in the state that was done. Each of the yarns 10, 20, and 30 is in a state in which an end portion having a very short length ahead of the stitch position is projected. The non-elastic yarn 10 or the first elastic yarn 20 does not cause fraying due to a long end or unraveling of the stitches. For example, even if a force that pulls out and pulls out the ends of the yarns 10 and 20 is applied, the yarns 10 and 20 fixed at the stitch position are not pulled out. The second elastic yarn 30 that is an insertion structure is drawn into the inner side of the knitted fabric by being contracted by its own elastic restoring force from the stretched state when the knitted fabric is cut, so that the thick second elastic yarn 30 is , It does not protrude as a fray at the end.

A thick stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention was manufactured and its performance was evaluated.
As the knitting device, a Russell machine manufactured by KARL MAYER, type RSE4N3K was used.
[Example 1]
<Thread usage and knitting structure>
Each knitting structure shown in FIG. 2 was knitted with the following thread use.
Front collar [F]: Nylon 66, 44T-34f Bright (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.)
Middle bowl [M]: Lycra 44T-127C (manufactured by Operontex)
Back bag [B]: Lycra 310T-127C (manufactured by Operontex)
The yarn feed amount of each yarn is as follows.

[F]: Yarn feed amount 1200 mm / R
[M]: Yarn supply amount 1000 mm / R (ST. 100%)
[B]: Yarn supply amount 166 mm / R (ST. 100%)
<Knitted fabric characteristics>
Elongation: 178% in the vertical direction, 250% in the horizontal direction
Power: 903 g in the vertical direction and 458 g in the horizontal direction.
Tear strength 1745 g, burst strength 27.5 N / cm ² .
Fabric thickness 0.73mm.

  Scratching property: When the knitted fabric was cut to check for fraying and fluffing at the cut end portion, fraying and fuzzing hardly occurred and had good quality.

  The present invention, for example, in apparel applications where a relatively thick stretch warp knitted fabric is required, can be used to ensure that sufficient fabric thickness can be easily secured and that the cut end portion is less likely to be frayed. It becomes a highly elastic thick stretch warp knitted fabric.

Knitting organization chart of thick elastic warp knitted fabric representing an embodiment of the present invention Knitting organization chart for each yarn constituting the warp knitted fabric

Explanation of symbols

10 Inelastic yarn 20 Thin first elastic yarn 30 Thick second elastic yarn

Claims (4)

A thick elastic warp knitted fabric knitted by combining a non-elastic yarn, a relatively thin first elastic yarn and a relatively thick second elastic yarn,
The knitted structure of the inelastic yarn has a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 21/32 // and 12/32 //, and has two stitches per course and two stitches in one repeating unit. A loop is formed on all courses with a total swing width of
The knitted structure of the thin first elastic yarn has a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 23/21 // and 34/32/21/23 //, and swings 1 to 2 needles per course. In one repeat unit in width, it has a total swing width of 2 to 3 needles and forms a loop in all courses,
The knitted structure of the thick second elastic yarn has a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 22/44/22/33/11/33 // and 11/22/33/22 //, and 1 course It is inserted with a total swing width of 2 to 5 needles in one repeat unit with a swing width of 1 to 2 needles every time .
A thick elastic warp knitted fabric. The inelastic yarn has a thickness of 16 to 122 dtex;
The thin first elastic yarn has a thickness of 22 to 156 dtex,
The thick second elastic yarn is 33 to 940 dtex and is 1.5 to 22 times thicker than the first elastic yarn .
The thick stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1. The elongation in the vertical direction is 130 to 250%, and the power is 700 to 1600 g.
The elongation in the horizontal direction is 80 to 300%, the power is 300 to 800 g,
The tear strength is 1000-2500 g,
Bursting strength 24.5-40 N / cm ² ,
The fabric thickness is 0.5 to 1.4 mm .
The thick stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2 . A method for producing a thick stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3 ,
Using a warp knitting machine with 3 or more wrinkles,
In the front kite, the knitted structure of the inelastic yarn is knitted with a yarn supply amount of 800 to 2000 mm / R,
In the middle rod, the knitted structure of the thin first elastic yarn is knitted at a yarn supply amount of 800 to 1600 mm / R (ST. 100%),
In the back kite, the knitted structure of the thick second elastic yarn is knitted with a yarn supply amount of 100 to 180 mm / R (ST. 100%),
And the yarn supply amount of the thin first elastic yarn is set to be 4.4 to 16 times the yarn supply amount of the thick second elastic yarn .
A method for producing a thick stretch warp knitted fabric.

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