JP3805343B2 - Method for manufacturing edge of circular knitted fabric - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing edge of circular knitted fabric Download PDF

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JP3805343B2
JP3805343B2 JP2004103859A JP2004103859A JP3805343B2 JP 3805343 B2 JP3805343 B2 JP 3805343B2 JP 2004103859 A JP2004103859 A JP 2004103859A JP 2004103859 A JP2004103859 A JP 2004103859A JP 3805343 B2 JP3805343 B2 JP 3805343B2
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yarn
fabric
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knitted fabric
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JP2005290581A (en
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光生 赤井
哉治 洲脇
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今城メリヤス株式会社
シルバーオックス株式会社
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Description

本発明は、丸編機を使用して筒状編地の上下端に編成された捨糸部を切断することにより、切断部にほつれが生じないようにした丸編地の端縁部の製造方法に関するものである。   The present invention is to manufacture an edge portion of a circular knitted fabric in which fraying does not occur in the cut portion by cutting the yarn-removal portions knitted on the upper and lower ends of the tubular knitted fabric using a circular knitting machine. It is about the method.

従来から、丸編機を使用して筒状に編まれた生地は、その編成組織の構造上、伸縮性があることから、主として肌着などの胴部や袖部に多く用いられており、筒状部の裾部を切り放なしの状態で使用することがある。その場合には端縁部を解れないようにオーバロック縫いしたり、折り返して縫い合わせたり、テープやレース等の別生地を縫着したりしているが、いずれも縫製に時間がかかり作業性が悪いばかりでなく、縫合部が突出するため、違和感が生じる等の問題点があった。   Conventionally, fabrics knitted into a cylindrical shape using a circular knitting machine have been mainly used for trunks and sleeves, such as underwear, because of the structure of the knitting structure, so In some cases, the bottom part of the shape part is used without being cut off. In that case, overlock sewing is performed so that the edge portion cannot be unraveled, folded back and sewn, and other fabrics such as tape and lace are sewn. Not only is it bad, but there are problems such as a sense of incongruity due to the stitched portion protruding.

そこで、端縁部が平滑面で、しかも適度な伸縮性を持つ筒状編地として、ポリウレタン弾性糸に合成繊維をカバリングした糸を、編地の一部分に編み込むと共に、その境目に水溶性の糸を編み込み染色工程で水溶性の糸を溶解させて端縁部を整える方法がとられているが、この場合生地の編み立て及び加工において特別な装置を要し生産性も悪かった。   Therefore, as a cylindrical knitted fabric with a smooth edge and an appropriate stretchability, a polyurethane elastic yarn covered with synthetic fiber is knitted into a part of the knitted fabric, and a water-soluble yarn at the boundary. However, in this case, a special apparatus is required for knitting and processing the fabric and the productivity is poor.

また、別の方法として、端縁部となる数コースに、加熱により溶融し常温で固定する溶融接着糸を編み込み、加熱することにより溶融接着糸を溶融し、溶融した糸で非溶融糸のループの接点を固定することにより解れ防止する方法がある。(例えば、特許文献1)
特公昭57−179929号公報
As another method, a melt-bonded yarn that is melted by heating and fixed at room temperature is knitted into several courses serving as edge portions, and the melt-bonded yarn is melted by heating, and a loop of non-melted yarn is obtained by the melted yarn. There is a method of preventing unraveling by fixing the contacts. (For example, Patent Document 1)
Japanese Patent Publication No.57-179929

しかしながら、上記処理をした部分の熱融着力は、熱溶融糸の含有量の増大によって増加するが、それにつれて風合いの悪化は免れなく、また、溶融接着糸は汎用品でないため、種類・太さ等の選択の余地が少なく、コストも割高になる問題点があった。   However, although the heat-bonding force of the treated part increases with the increase in the content of hot-melt yarn, the deterioration of the texture is inevitable along with it, and the melt-bonded yarn is not a general-purpose product. There was a problem that there was little room for selection and the cost was high.

本発明は、上記の問題点を解決することを課題として開発されたもので、丸編地の端縁部に切断しても解れることのない捨糸部を編成すると共に、特別な装置を用いず、しかも簡単な手段で丸編地の端縁部を解れることなく、風合いおよび肌触りの良い丸編地の端縁部の製造方法を提供することを目的とするものである。   The present invention was developed with the object of solving the above-mentioned problems. In addition to knitting a yarn disposal portion that cannot be unraveled by cutting at the edge of a circular knitted fabric, a special device is provided. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing an edge portion of a circular knitted fabric having a good texture and feel without using the edge portion of the circular knitted fabric by using simple means.

上記の課題を解決し、その目的を達成する手段として、本発明は、丸編機を使用して紡績糸で身生地となる筒状編地を編成し、該筒状編地の端縁に、身生地糸と、合成ゴムに合成長繊維をカバリングした弾性糸とで伸縮性細幅編地を編成し、続いて合成ゴムに水溶性ビニロンをカバリングした糸とで捨糸部を編成し、これを繰り返して長尺の身生地またはその身生地を開反し、水溶性ビニロンを溶解除去する仕上げ加工を施すことを特徴とする丸編地の端縁部の製造方法を開発し、採用した。   As means for solving the above-mentioned problems and achieving the object, the present invention uses a circular knitting machine to knit a cylindrical knitted fabric that becomes a body fabric with spun yarn, and at the edge of the cylindrical knitted fabric. , Knit a stretchy narrow knitted fabric with body yarn and elastic yarn covered with synthetic long fiber on synthetic rubber, then knitted a yarn with synthetic rubber covered with water-soluble vinylon, The manufacturing method of the edge part of the circular knitted fabric characterized by applying a finishing process to dissolve and remove the water-soluble vinylon by opening the long body fabric or the body fabric by repeating this process was developed and adopted.

また上記のように構成した丸編地の端縁部の編成方法において、伸縮性細幅編地は身生地糸と、合成ゴムに合成長繊維をカバリングした弾性糸を0:1、1:1、1:2または2:1にして編成された丸編地の端縁部の製造方法、および捨糸部の合成ゴムはポリウレタン弾性糸と10〜50デニールのポリアミド糸とで編成された丸編地の端縁部の製造方法を開発し、採用した。   Moreover, in the knitting method of the edge part of the circular knitted fabric configured as described above, the stretchable narrow knitted fabric is a body fabric yarn and an elastic yarn obtained by covering a synthetic rubber with a synthetic long fiber 0: 1, 1: 1. , 1: 2 or 2: 1 method for producing edge of circular knitted fabric, and synthetic rubber of circular yarn is knitted with polyurethane elastic yarn and 10-50 denier polyamide yarn A manufacturing method for the edge of the ground was developed and adopted.

本発明は、丸編地の端縁部の捨糸部を切断すれば解れることなく切りっ放しで使用でき、肌着、ファンデーションなどの用途に適した編地を得ることができると共に、加工工程で特別な装置等も必要としなく、加工方法においても通常の加工と変わらず合理的に生地生産できる。   The present invention can be used without being cut if the end portion of the circular knitted fabric is cut, and can be used for underwear, foundations, and other suitable knitted fabrics. No special equipment is required, and the processing method can be rationally produced as in normal processing.

本発明の身生地となる丸編地に用いられる紡績糸としては、綿糸、羊毛、麻などの天然繊維、レーヨン、ポリアミド、ポリエステル、アクリル、ポリプロピレン、塩化ビニールなど任意の糸の使用が可能であり、これらは単独または混紡されたもの等どちらでもよい。中でも綿糸が好適であり、太さは10〜80番手の範囲のものを使用する。編地の組織としては編機で編成可能な組織であればいずれでもよいが、フライス、スムース、天竺等が好ましい。   As the spun yarn used for the circular knitted fabric which is the body fabric of the present invention, any yarn such as cotton yarn, wool, hemp and other natural fibers, rayon, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, polypropylene, vinyl chloride can be used. These may be used alone or in combination. Among them, cotton yarn is suitable, and the thickness is in the range of 10 to 80. The knitted fabric structure may be any structure as long as it can be knitted by a knitting machine, but milling, smoothing, tengu and the like are preferable.

身生地に続いて編成される伸縮性細幅部は、綿糸とFTY(ポリウレタン弾性糸にナイロン、ポリエステルなどの長繊維をカバリングした糸)などの弾性糸を0:1、1:1、1:2または2:1で編成されている。綿糸は10〜80番手、FTY糸は20〜120デニールの範囲のものを使用するのが好適である。   The stretchable narrow part knitted following the body fabric is made of elastic yarn such as cotton yarn and FTY (polyurethane elastic yarn covered with nylon, polyester, etc.) and other elastic yarns of 0: 1, 1: 1, 1: It is organized in 2 or 2: 1. It is preferable to use cotton yarn having a yarn count of 10 to 80 and FTY yarn of 20 to 120 denier.

捨糸部で用いる水溶性ビニロンは、ポリビニールアルコールを主原料として、湿式紡糸あるいは紡糸によって製造され、70〜90℃の熱湯で容易に溶解する繊維である。その捨糸部は、20〜120デニールのポリウレタン弾性糸と、10〜50デニールのポリアミド糸、30〜100デニールの水溶性ビニロン糸をカバリングして編成した後、染色工程で水溶性ビニロン糸を溶かして編成されている。   The water-soluble vinylon used in the discarding section is a fiber that is produced by wet spinning or spinning using polyvinyl alcohol as a main raw material and is easily dissolved in hot water at 70 to 90 ° C. The waste yarn part is formed by covering and knitting 20 to 120 denier polyurethane elastic yarn, 10 to 50 denier polyamide yarn and 30 to 100 denier water-soluble vinylon yarn, and then dissolving the water-soluble vinylon yarn in the dyeing process. Are organized.

以下に、本発明の具体的実施例を説明する。
丸編機(福原精機株式会社製 18ゲージ 900本 16吋 48口)を使用し、40番手の綿糸を用いフライス編みで60cmの身生地1を編成し、続いて40番手の綿糸と、70デニールのポリウレタン弾性糸に、40デニールのポリアミドカバリング糸を1:1として1.2cmの伸縮性細幅部2を編成し、引き続いて40デニールのポリウレタン弾性糸と、10デニールのポリアミド糸に、50デニールの水溶性ビニロン糸を巻いて0.5cmの捨糸部3を編成した。その後、スタート状態に戻し、これを繰り返し約80m編んで1反とし、染色加工で90℃の熱湯に漬し捨糸部3の水溶性ビニロン糸を溶解すると共に染色・仕上げを行い、伸縮性細幅部2と捨糸部3と身生地1のピッチ60cmの生地を得た。
Hereinafter, specific examples of the present invention will be described.
Using a circular knitting machine (Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd., 18 gauge, 900 pieces, 16 48 48 units), 40cm cotton yarn is used to knit a 60cm body fabric 1, followed by 40th cotton yarn and 70 denier. Polyurethane elastic yarn with 40 denier polyamide covering yarn 1: 1 and knitted stretchable narrow part 2 of 1.2 cm, followed by 40 denier polyurethane elastic yarn and 10 denier polyamide yarn with 50 denier A water-soluble vinylon yarn was wound to form a 0.5 cm discard portion 3. After that, it is returned to the start state, and this is repeatedly knitted for about 80 m to make one, and it is immersed in hot water at 90 ° C. in the dyeing process to dissolve the water-soluble vinylon yarn of the discard part 3 and dyeing and finishing it. A cloth having a pitch of 2 cm, a width part 2, a discarding part 3 and a body cloth 1 was obtained.

身生地1の捨糸部3をロールカッターで切断して端縁を切り放しとしたが解れることなく、整った裾および袖のインナー、アウターの用途として適するものであった。   It was suitable for the use of the arranged hem, sleeve inner, and outer without breaking, although the end portion was cut off by cutting the waste part 3 of the body cloth 1 with a roll cutter.

丸編機(福原精機株式会社製 18ゲージ 1680本 30吋 72口)を使用し、40番手の綿糸を用いてフライス編みで60cmの身生地1を編成し、続いて40番手の綿糸と、70デニールのポリウレタンゴム糸に、40デニールのポリアミドカバリング糸(FTY)を1:1で1.2cmの伸縮性細幅部2を編成し、続いて40デニールのポリウレタンゴム糸と、10デニールのポリアミド糸に、50デニールの水溶性ビニロン糸で12コース編み、もとの40番手に戻し、繰り返して約40m編んで1反とし、染色加工で90℃の熱湯に漬し水溶性ビニロン糸が溶解しポリウレタン糸のみの捨糸部3となる。そして、経目を開反すると伸縮性細幅部2と12コースのポリウレタン捨糸部3と身生地1のピッチ60cmの生地を得た。   Using a circular knitting machine (Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd., 18 gauge, 1680, 30cm, 72 units), 40cm cotton yarn is used to knit a 60cm body fabric 1, followed by 40th cotton yarn. A denier polyurethane rubber yarn is knitted with a 40 denier polyamide covering yarn (FTY) 1: 1 and a stretchable narrow portion 2 of 1.2 cm, followed by a 40 denier polyurethane rubber yarn and a 10 denier polyamide yarn. In addition, knitting 12 courses with 50 denier water-soluble vinylon yarn, returning to the original 40th, repeatedly knitting about 40 m to make one piece, dyed in 90 ° C hot water and dissolved the water-soluble vinylon yarn, polyurethane Only the yarn is discarded. Then, when the warp was opened, a stretchable narrow width part 2, a 12-course polyurethane discard part 3 and a body cloth 1 having a pitch of 60 cm were obtained.

捨糸部3をロールカッターで切断して端縁を切り放しとしたが解れることなく、整った裾および袖のインナー、アウターの用途として適するものであった。   It was suitable for the use of the arranged hem, sleeve inner, and outer without being unraveled although the end portion was cut off by cutting the discard portion 3 with a roll cutter.

比較例1Comparative Example 1

丸編機(福原精機株式会社製 18ゲージ 900本 16吋 48口)を使用し、40番手の綿糸を用いフライス編みで60cmの身生地を編成し、続いて40番手の綿糸と、70デニールのポリウレタン弾性糸に、40デニールのポリアミドカバリング糸を1:1として1.2cmの伸縮性細幅部を編成し、引き続いて100デニールの水溶性ビニロン糸で12コース全周を均一に編み、その後スタート状態に戻し、これを繰り返し80m編んで1反として、染色加工で90℃の熱湯に漬して水溶性ビニロン糸を溶解し身丈分60cmの身生地を得た。   Using a circular knitting machine (Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd., 18 gauge, 900 pieces, 16 48, 48 units), knitting a 60cm fabric with milling using 40th cotton yarn, followed by 40th cotton yarn and 70 denier Polyurethane elastic yarn with 40 denier polyamide covering yarn 1: 1 and knitted stretchable narrow part of 1.2cm, then knitted all around 12 courses uniformly with 100 denier water-soluble vinylon yarn, then start It was returned to the state, and this was repeatedly knitted for 80 m to make one, and it was immersed in hot water at 90 ° C. by dyeing to dissolve the water-soluble vinylon yarn to obtain a body fabric having a height of 60 cm.

上記の比較例1によると、身丈分60cmのパーツ毎に分離してバラバラになり、パーツ染色、パーツ仕上げセットになり作業性が複雑化すると共に、作業効率が悪くなった。   According to the comparative example 1 described above, each part having a height of 60 cm was separated into pieces, resulting in parts dyeing and parts finishing set, and the workability was complicated and work efficiency was deteriorated.

比較例2Comparative Example 2

丸編機(福原精機株式会社製 18ゲージ 1680本 30吋 72口)を使用し、40番手の綿糸を用いてフライス編みで60cmの身生地を編成し、続いて40番手の綿糸と、70デニールのポリウレタンゴム糸に、40デニールのポリアミドカバリング糸(FTY)を1:1で1.2cmの伸縮性細幅部を編成し、続いて30デニールのポリエステルフィラメント糸で抜き糸となる部分を1コース編み、もとの40番手に戻す。これを繰り返して約40m編んで1反とし、通常の加工を行った後、縫製工程でポリエステルフィラメント糸を抜き取り60cmピッチの身生地を得た。   Using a circular knitting machine (Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd., 18 gauge, 1680, 30cm, 72 units), knitting a 60cm body fabric with milling using 40th cotton yarn, followed by 40th cotton yarn and 70 denier Polyurethane rubber yarn, 40 denier polyamide covering yarn (FTY) is knitted with a stretchable narrow part of 1.2cm at 1: 1, followed by 30 denier polyester filament yarn for 1 course Knitting, return to the original 40th. This was repeated to knit about 40 m to make one roll, and after normal processing, the polyester filament yarn was pulled out in the sewing process to obtain a 60 cm pitch body fabric.

上記の比較例2によると、ポリエステルフィラメント糸の抜き取り作業が大変であり、実際にはスムーズに抜き取れないばかりでなく作業能率が悪くなった。   According to Comparative Example 2 described above, the polyester filament yarn was difficult to be pulled out. In fact, the polyester filament yarn was not smoothly pulled out, and the work efficiency was deteriorated.

以上、本発明の主要な実施の形態について説明したが、本発明は、これらの実施に限定されるものではなく、本発明の目的を達成でき、且つ本発明の要旨を逸脱しない範囲内で種々の設計変更が可能であり、それらも全て本発明の範囲内に包含されるものである。   As mentioned above, although main embodiment of this invention was described, this invention is not limited to these implementation, In the range which can achieve the objective of this invention and does not deviate from the summary of this invention, it is various. It is possible to make various design changes, and these are all included in the scope of the present invention.

本発明は、キャミソール、フレンチ、タンクトップなどのインナーに限らず、アウターウエアーなどの衣類にも利用できるものである。   The present invention can be used not only for inners such as camisole, French and tank top, but also for clothing such as outerwear.

本発明の製造方法で得られた丸編み地の平面図である。It is a top view of the circular knitted fabric obtained with the manufacturing method of this invention.

符号の説明Explanation of symbols

1 身生地
2 伸縮性細幅部
3 捨糸部
1 Body fabric 2 Elastic narrow part 3 Spun part

Claims (3)

丸編機を使用して紡績糸で筒状編地の身生地を編成し、該身生地の端縁に、身生地糸と合成ゴムに合成長繊維をカバリングした弾性糸とで伸縮性細幅部を編成し、続いて合成ゴムに水溶性ビニロンをカバリングした糸とで捨糸部を編成し、これを繰り返して長尺の身生地またはその身生地を開反し、水溶性ビニロンを溶解除去する仕上げ加工を施すことを特徴とする丸編地の端縁部の製造方法。   A circular knitting machine is used to knit a tubular knitted fabric body with spun yarn, and at the edge of the body fabric, a stretchable narrow width with a body fabric yarn and a synthetic rubber covered elastic yarn Knitting the part, and then knitting the yarn with the synthetic rubber covered with water-soluble vinylon, and repeating this, the long body fabric or its body fabric is opened to dissolve and remove the water-soluble vinylon A method for producing an edge portion of a circular knitted fabric, characterized by performing a finishing process. 伸縮性細幅部は身生地糸と、合成ゴムに合成長繊維をカバリングした弾性糸を0:1、1:1、1:2または2:1にして編成された請求項1に記載の丸編地の端縁部の製造方法。   2. The circle according to claim 1, wherein the stretchable narrow part is knitted with a body fabric thread and an elastic thread obtained by covering a synthetic rubber with a synthetic long fiber in a ratio of 0: 1, 1: 1, 1: 2 or 2: 1. Manufacturing method of edge part of knitted fabric. 捨糸部の合成ゴムは、ポリウレタン弾性糸と10〜50デニールのポリアミド糸とで編成された請求項1または2に記載の丸編地の端縁部の製造方法。














The manufacturing method of the edge part of the circular knitted fabric of Claim 1 or 2 with which the synthetic rubber of the discard part was knitted with the polyurethane elastic yarn and the polyamide yarn of 10-50 denier.














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