JPH06173144A - Production of pleat knitted fabric and pleat knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a method for producing a pleat knitted fabric, capable of forming clear pleat shape and simultaneously elastically deforming this pleat shape and capable of retaining good pleat shape even in repeatedly stretching and contracting pleat fabric. CONSTITUTION:In this method for knitting a pleat knitted fabric consisting of a fold forming part A and a knit forming part B by combining basic yarn feed courses I, III, and so on constituting a basic structure of the knitted fabric with feed yarn courses for forming pleat II, IV, and so on, continuously missing a knitting needle by plural wales, the each yarn feed course for pleat formation is knitted with a covering elastic yarn 3 to provide the objective pleat fabric capable of always retaining good pleat even when stretching and contracting are repeated while keeping excellent elastic restoring force and durability of the covering elastic yarn 3.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a pleat knitted fabric and a pleat knitted fabric, and more particularly, to a pleat knitted fabric having pleats or pleats formed at regular intervals and used for clothing such as skirts. How to do, and
The present invention relates to a pleat knitted fabric manufactured by such a method.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, it has been widely practiced to form pleats on a woven fabric, but in recent years, it has been possible to form a pleated pattern having ridge-like folds on a part or the whole of a knit skirt or a knit dress. I'm starting to be seen.
Specifically, Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 31-17245 discloses a method of forming pleats by pulling out a plurality of needles from one needle bed and the other needle bed at regular intervals with a two-row needle. There is. Japanese Patent Publication No. 62-15656 discloses a method of forming pleats by using a high-shrinkable yarn for each course with a single row needle and pulling out the high-shrinkable yarn over continuous wells. Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 43-30139 discloses a method of forming pleats by wrapping with highly shrinkable yarn.

Further, a technique for forming a corrugated shirring knit by using a double knit jacquard needle selecting device to form a three-dimensional pattern as a floating pattern or by knitting a covered elastic yarn with a back yarn, Pleat-like expression is possible.

[0004]

However, the pleats obtained by the above-mentioned conventional method for producing a pleat knitted fabric are much inferior to the pleats formed in the conventional woven fabric, and an improvement is desired. Was there. One of the reasons for this is that in the case of knitted fabric, the yarns that make up the knitted fabric are easier to move, and the loops are able to freely expand and contract and are loose compared to woven fabrics. Poor in shape retention of pleats. In addition, since many knitted fabrics have a relatively large thickness, three-dimensionally sharp lines, that is, folds of pleats are unlikely to occur.

In particular, in the case of the above-mentioned pleat knitted fabric using the high shrinkage yarn, even if a good pleat is formed by the shrinkage force of the high shrinkage yarn at the time of knitting, when the pleat knitted fabric is stretched, the original pleat knitted fabric is restored again. The pleat shape has a problem that it is difficult to return. When the garment sewn with such a pleat knitted fabric is repeatedly worn and washed, fatigue occurs and the form of the pleat rapidly collapses. Therefore, it is inferior to a high-class feeling, and it is difficult to use it for outerwear etc. even though it can be used for applications such as underwear where appearance is not so required.

In the method in which the covered elastic yarn is interwoven with the back yarn, in the state where the knitted fabric is not stretched and is not worn, even if pleats having a three-dimensional appearance are formed, the fabric is stretched when worn. However, there is a drawback that the stereoscopic effect is greatly impaired. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to form a clear pleat form in the pleat knitted fabric as described above, and this pleat form can be elastically deformed, and even when the expansion and contraction of the pleat knitted fabric is repeated, it is good. A method for manufacturing a pleat knitted fabric in which a pleat shape is maintained,
It is to provide a pleat knitted fabric having such excellent properties.

[0007]

A method for manufacturing a pleated knitted fabric according to the present invention, which solves the above-mentioned problems, has a problem in that a knitting needle for a plurality of wells is continuously missed in a basic yarn feeding course constituting a basic structure of the knitted fabric. In the method of knitting a pleat knitted fabric by combining the pleat forming yarn feeding courses to be performed, the pleat forming yarn feeding course is knitted with the covered elastic yarn.

The basic yarn supplying course which constitutes the basic structure of the knitted fabric does not form pleats only by this basic yarn supplying course, but constitutes the basic structure which determines the overall texture and characteristics of the knitted fabric. . Specifically, in accordance with the use and required characteristics of the pleat knitted fabric, as with various conventional pleat knitted fabrics, any yarn material can be used and knitted with any knitting structure. In the basic yarn feeding course, normally, stitches are continuously formed without making mistakes in knitting needles. However, as will be described later, the knitting needles are locally removed by removing one knitting needle only at the folds of the pleats. Sometimes you make a mistake.

The basic yarn supply course may be knitted with only non-elastic yarns, knitted with added yarns of non-elastic yarns and elastic yarns, or knitted with only these added yarns and non-elastic yarns. It can also be configured by combining. The pleats-forming yarn feeding course is to form pleats on the knitted fabric by making the knitting needles continuously miss for a plurality of wells when knitting the knitted fabric in combination with the basic yarn feeding course. , The pleat forming yarn supply course is knitted with the covered elastic yarn.

As the non-elastic yarn, any yarn such as natural fiber or artificial fiber is used, but it is preferable to use a yarn made of thermoplastic synthetic fiber in order to improve the retaining property of the pleated form. Specifically, long fibers or spun yarns of polyester, nylon, vinylon, polypropylene, vinylidene chloride, etc. are preferable, and mixed yarns of these yarns and recycled fibers or composite yarns such as mixed yarns of natural fibers are also used. it can. Particularly, polyester or nylon long-fiber filament yarns and bulky yarns are preferable.

As the elastic yarn, various yarns used in ordinary knitted fabrics can be used. Specifically, polyurethane elastic yarn,
Examples include polyester elastic yarn and polyamide elastic yarn. Of these, polyurethane elastic yarn (spandex) is preferable. In order to impart a good pleat-setting property, it is preferable that the weight ratio of the soft segment to the hard segment is small, and that obtained by appropriately selecting two or more chain extenders and mixing them.

The elastic yarn preferably has a thickness of about 20 to 140 denier, more preferably 30 to 70 denier. The elastic yarn may have a breaking elongation of 400% or more, preferably 500 to 600%. Further, it is preferable that the elongation in the initial stage is low stress and is easy to elongate, and the elongation showing a rising gradient is around 350% or more. The breaking strength is preferably 0.8 g / D or more. In particular,
It is preferably 1.0 to 1.7 g / D.

As the coated elastic yarn, those formed by various ordinary thread materials and coating methods such as the above-mentioned elastic yarn coated with an inelastic yarn can be used. The yarn design at the time of coating may be an ordinary covering ring twisted yarn used for general circular knitting applications, but the covering condition is preferably a draft ratio of 3.5 times or less, In particular, those of 2.0 to 3.0 times are preferable. Designs using core spun yarns in cotton and acrylic spinning can be done as well.

In the present invention, when elastic yarn (bare) is used for the basic yarn supplying course, in order to express the pleated pattern sharply, the initial low stress elongation limit of the coated elastic yarn of the yarn supplying course for forming pleats is It is preferable to make it smaller than the initial low stress elongation limit of the elastic yarn of the basic yarn feeding course. As the coated elastic yarn, the elastic yarn used for the core yarn is preferably 20 denier or more, and particularly preferably 30 to 70 denier. In the case of covered yarn, the total denier of wooly nylon yarn and wooly polyester yarn is preferably 15 denier or more and 210 denier or less, and particularly 30 to 1
50 denier is preferred. For core span yarn,
Spinning count is 20-80s (metric count 1 / 34-1
/ 136) is preferred.

Next, in order to knit the pleated knitted fabric of the present invention, knitting can be carried out in a normal knitting process using an ordinary circular knitting machine. The position of the mistake needs to be properly arranged. For example, in the case of a single knit circular knitting machine, the cam arrangement is 2 to 4
There should be a truck, and the knitting needles facing it should be 2-4
You need a bat. If possible, the needle selection mechanism is effective in diversifying the pleated pattern and expressing the pattern. For example, a semi-jacquard or circular knitting machine with a computer jacquard is desirable.

Needle removal of the knitting yarn course in the added yarn knitting consisting of the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn in the basic yarn feeding course is performed by continuously forming the fold-fold forming portion of the pleat forming course, that is, knitting needles for a plurality of wells. One knitting needle at the center can be pulled out at a position corresponding to the location of the mistake. By removing this single needle, the folds of the pleats can be sharpened. Further, even at the positions corresponding to both ends of the fold forming portion of the pleat forming course, that is, at both ends of the miss portion of the knitting needle, if one knitting needle of the basic yarn feeding course is removed, the pleating crease becomes more preferable. it can.

In the course for forming pleats, the number of wells to be continuously misplaced is adjusted to the position where folds are to be formed. The specific number of wells is 5 wells or more,
20 wells or less is desirable. Larger pleats can be formed as the number of wales to be consecutively mistaken increases, but if it exceeds 20 wells, skipping is likely to occur during knitting. The arrangement of the pleats forming course and the basic yarn supplying course may be so-called one course skipping, in which both are repeated for each course, or after the basic yarn supplying course is continuously formed, a plurality of pleating forming courses are arranged. You may do it. By changing the arrangement interval of the pleated forming courses, the form of the pleats can be changed. However, the arrangement interval of the pleating yarn supply course is 21.
If it spreads over the course, that is, if the basic yarn feeding course of 20 or more courses is sandwiched between adjacent yarn feeding courses for forming pleats, the folds of the pleats become unclear and the pleated form retainability is improved. Will be inferior.

In the circular knitting machine, it is preferable to use a positive feeder (active feeding device) as a feeding device for feeding the covered elastic yarn of the pleat forming yarn feeding course or the elastic yarn of the basic yarn feeding course. The positive feeder is a device for sending out the yarn while the elastic yarn or the coated elastic yarn is placed on the rotating rollers arranged in two rows or the rotating rollers in one row and being rolled.

The ratio of the peripheral speed of the rotary roller of the positive feeder to the yarn feeding speed of the inelastic yarn from the circular knitting machine main body is called a so-called knitting draft ratio. For example,
The non-elastic yarn has the yarn speed A (m / min) on the IRO-tape, and the rotational speed B of the positive feeder that sends out the elastic yarn.
If it is (m / min), it is expressed by the draft ratio = A / B.

And, the smaller the knitting draft ratio of the pleat forming course using the covered elastic yarn is, the smaller the knitting draft ratio of the basic yarn feeding course consisting of the splicing knitting of the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn is. Can be expressed sharply. In this, for example, the basic yarn supply course is composed of an added yarn knit consisting of elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns, one needle is removed at the center of the fold formation portion of the pleats, and the other portion is knitted at the knit position. At the same time, when the courses before and after this basic yarn feeding course are knitted with the covered elastic yarn at the continuous needle pulling portion or the knit position, the needle pulling portion of the basic yarn feeding course shrinks after the raw machine knitted from the knitting machine, and the elasticity is reduced. This is because the added yarn knitting course composed of the yarn and the inelastic yarn is bent into a sharp crease shape. The setting condition of the braid draft ratio is that the above-mentioned initial low stress elongation limit of the covered elastic yarn of the pleat forming yarn feeding course is smaller than the initial low stress elongation limit of the elastic yarn of the basic yarn feeding course. And have substantially the same meaning.

The preferable knitting draft ratio is 2.8 to 2.8 in the basic yarn feeding course consisting of the added yarn of elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns.
3.5 times. In consideration of the preferable design condition of the above-mentioned braiding ratio, the pleats forming course made of the covered elastic yarn is in the range of 3.5 times, preferably 2.0 times to 3.0 times. Also, it is preferable to set the pleat forming course so that the braiding ratio becomes smaller.

In addition to the yarn materials and knitting conditions as described above, the pleat knitted fabric may be manufactured under the same process and processing conditions as knitting of the pleat knitted fabric by a normal circular knitting machine. The pleat knitted fabric knitted by the circular knitting machine can be finished by an ordinary dyeing finishing method. Specifically, the non-elastic yarn used is roughly classified according to whether it is a spun yarn or a long fiber filament yarn as a main component, but the basic process of the dyeing step may be substantially the same. That is, an appropriate method may be adopted depending on the application such as clothing manufactured using the pleated knitted fabric.

A relaxation treatment can be carried out prior to the dyeing step. As a concrete processing device, a model type having a function of a soft relaxer which is also used for scouring, in which the knitted fabric can freely move and which can flow and move is preferable. Although the dyeing-drying-finishing setting step is sequentially performed, in order to keep good pleats, it is desirable to perform each of these steps under conditions that do not impair the pleated form. For example, it is desirable to use an appropriate method according to the application, such as a method of flowing a circular knitted fabric in a tubular shape or a method of opening / setting in a finishing process. In the finishing setting step, either a width setting or a width setting can be applied, but it is necessary to avoid performing an unreasonable width setting or using a device that easily causes an unreasonable width setting. For example, when long filament filament yarn is used, it is preferable to avoid the tubular / metal frame set and open / pin tenter finish.

The pleated knitted fabric obtained by the present invention is used for various uses in which conventional pleated knitted fabrics have been used, or for various uses in which sharp pleats and elastic recovery of pleats are required. can do. As a specific example of a preferable use, it can be mainly used for the bottom and hem of women's outerwear such as women's skirts and dresses. In addition, because it has elastic recovery, it can be used for decorative parts of swimwear and underwear, as a shirt material for tank tops, and as a strange thing, for accessories such as scarves and stoles. It is suitable.

[0025]

It has been known that pleats are formed on a knitted fabric when a knitting needle is missed continuously for a plurality of wells in a part of a yarn feeding course. However, in the conventional pleat knitted fabric, it has been considered only to use an inelastic yarn or a highly stretchable yarn as the yarn of the yarn feeding course that causes the knitting needle to be missed. If a highly elastic yarn is used, a clear pleat can be formed by the shrinking force, but if the pleat knitted fabric is stretched during use, even if this stretching force is removed, the first pleat will be removed. Morphology is not completely restored. This is because the highly elastic yarn has poor resilience that elastically restores the original state when repeatedly stretched.

Therefore, in the present invention, by using the covered elastic yarn in the yarn feeding course that causes a miss of the knitting needle, that is, the course for forming pleats, the contracted force of the covered elastic yarn forms clear pleats, and the pleats are formed. Is greatly stretched, but when the stretched force is removed,
Due to the elastic restoring force of the coated elastic yarn, the pleats can be returned to the original state in a good condition, and the same good pleated form as at the time of manufacturing can be maintained forever.

An elastic yarn is also available as a yarn having an elastic restoring force. However, when the elastic yarn is used for the pleats forming course as described above, when the knitted fabric is deformed by the elastic contracting force to form the pleats in the knitting process, the yarns are rubbed with each other or the elastic yarns are rubbed. Has the drawback of causing yarn breakage. Since the elastic yarn is weaker in abrasion resistance or durability than the non-elastic yarn, it cannot be used in the course for forming pleats.

However, if the coated elastic yarn in which the elastic yarn is covered with the non-elastic yarn is used as in the present invention, the non-elastic yarn having excellent durability is arranged on the outer periphery, so that the pleats are formed in the knitting process. Even if the threads rub against each other as they are formed, thread breakage does not occur. In addition, a garment made of a pleat knitted fabric has very high stretchability in the direction orthogonal to the pleats due to the deformation of the pleats and the elastic deformation of the coated elastic yarn, and thus exhibits good properties as various garments and the like. be able to.

In the present invention, if the basic yarn supplying course is knitted by the splicing knitting of the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn, the elastic yarn is knitted so that the elastic deformation of the adjacent courses can be favorably performed. You will be told. As a result, in addition to the elastic deformation in the horizontal direction by the covered elastic yarn of the pleats forming course described above, good elastic deformability or elastic restoring property in the vertical direction is also exhibited.

That is, compared to the case where only the covered elastic yarn is used for the pleated forming course, the balance of stretchability in both the vertical and horizontal directions is improved, and the wearing feeling or fitting property is improved in various kinds of clothing. To do. Moreover, if the pleated knitted fabric only stretches in the horizontal direction, when it is stretched when worn, it is greatly stretched in the horizontal direction, and the three-dimensional effect of the pleats tends to be lost. If it is stretched in both the vertical and horizontal directions, the proportion of stretching in the horizontal direction is relatively small, and the three-dimensional effect of the pleats can be favorably maintained even when worn in the same manner.

[0031]

Embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 shows the knitting structure of the pleat knitted fabric decomposed for each course, and FIG. 2 schematically shows the overall structure of the knitting structure. In FIG. 1, Roman numerals (I to VIII) arranged in the vertical direction on the left side of the drawing indicate the numbers of yarn feeders, that is, the numbers of yarn feeding courses. In each yarn feeding course, change the knitting position of the knitting needle with a vertical line (|).
The error position (the position where the needle is pulled out) is indicated by a black dot (•). Vertical lines and black dots will represent each well. Of the wells arranged in the lateral direction, the area indicated by A is a portion that forms a fold, and the portion indicated by B is a portion that forms a normal flat knitted fabric. The yarns 1 to 3 for knitting the pleated knitted fabric are composed of an elastic yarn 1, an inelastic yarn 2 and a covered elastic yarn 3.

First, the yarn feeder I is a basic yarn feeding course, and the fold crease forming portion A has four knitting positions of knitting needles (4 wells), one knitting position of knitting needles (1 well), and
The knitting needles are composed of four knit positions (4 wells) for a total of 9 wells. That is, 1 at the center of the fold forming portion A
The book is punched out. The remaining ground knitting portion B is composed of 6 knitting positions (6 wells) of knitting needles. The knitting yarn of this yarn supplying course has a flat knitting structure in which the non-elastic yarn 2 and the elastic yarn 1 are added. The yarn feeders III, V, and VII are also basic yarn feeder courses having the same organization.

Next, the yarn feeder II is a course for forming pleats, and the crease forming portion A has nine knitting needle mispositions (9
Wells). The remaining ground knitting portion B is composed of 6 knitting positions (6 wells) of knitting needles. The knitting yarn of this yarn supplying course has a flat knitting structure with the covered elastic yarn 3. The yarn feeders IV, VI, VIII are also pleating courses having the same structure.

FIG. 2 shows a knitted fabric having the above-mentioned knitting structure.
Yes, wale W of the fold fold formation part A ₇~ W_TenAnd W₁₁
~ W₁₄Is the collection of the elastic yarn 1 of the basic yarn feeding course in the horizontal direction.
The contraction force and the contraction force of the covered elastic yarn 3 of the ground knitting formation portion B are synergistic
It will be folded in half and the center part will rise.
It will form a folded fold. The ground knitting section B is W
₁~ W₆And W₁₅~ W₂₀In both cases, the adjacent yarn feeding courses are mutually
Contracts in both vertical and horizontal directions until it contacts
It The covered elastic yarn 3 having a portion without stitches is folded
It contracts to the maximum in order to draw the fold forming part A. This
As a result of such action, the desired fold fold forming portion A and the ground knitting
A pleat knitted fabric including the forming portion B is formed.

In this pleat knitted fabric, the fold fold forming portion
The stitch of A is a stitch larger than that of the base stitch forming portion B. Ingredient
Physically, the course C in the ground knitting section B₁, C₂, U
Well W₁, W₂In comparison with the stitch of
Course C₁, C₂, Well W ₇, W₈The stitch is almost 2
Double. From the structure of each stitch, the stitches of the ground knitting forming section B are
The elastic threads 2 and the covered elastic threads 3 are alternately connected in the well direction.
Since it is a flat stitch, its elasticity is in the horizontal direction.
Not only expands and contracts, but expands and contracts equally in the vertical direction.
You can

The behavior when the pleated knitted fabric is stretched will be described. First, if you stretch it in the horizontal direction,
When the deformation starts in the stitch and the covered elastic yarn 3 contracted at the fold formation portion A is extended while following the extension in the horizontal direction, the three-dimensional folds, that is, the pleats disappear. When stretched in the vertical direction, after the stitches of each course of the ground knitting formation portion B are deformed, only those that have been extended and propagated to the course forming the fold formation portion A are transmitted, and the deformation and flattening of the stitches proceed. From these relationships, when the stretch deformation is generated in both the vertical and horizontal directions, the stitch deformation is firstly induced in the horizontal direction and subsequently in the vertical direction. It is almost the same when extended in the bias direction, and acts as the resultant force of each of the vertical and horizontal components. However, in this case, if anything, the deformation in the horizontal direction is considered to be large.

Next, after stretching in both the vertical and horizontal directions,
When the external force is removed, the pleat knitted fabric contracts. In the contraction process at this time, the above-mentioned elongation behavior and the action direction work in the opposite direction, the magnitude of the force is the same, and the pleat, that is, the shape of the three-dimensional folds, is completely restored to the original state. .
Specifically, when a garment using a fabric made of the pleated knitted fabric of the present invention is worn, it is about 3 to 10 depending on the size of the body.
About 50% will be stretched and worn on each part of the fabric. At this time, the crease formation portion A naturally undergoes deformation in the direction in which the three-dimensional pleat shape disappears.
However, once fitted to the body, the fold fold forming portion A is restored to a three-dimensional pleat shape having substantially the same size as before wearing by the elastic restoring force of the above-mentioned covered elastic thread 3 or the like. Will be done. Therefore, like a swimsuit,
Even a product with a large amount of expansion and contraction can hold the pleated pattern sufficiently.

FIG. 3 shows the pleats shown in FIGS. 1 and 2.
The external structure of the knitted fabric is shown. The fold formation portion A has an acute angle.
Pleat A folded in half₀, A₁, …… formed
Then, the ground knitting forming section B is filled up with each other most closely to form the ground knitting
Part B₀And B₁, B₁And B ₂, ……, but draw each other
As a result, the fold fold forming portion A is raised.
Needle pull-out portion X existing in the center of the fold-fold forming portion A₀, X₁，
...... is placed at the apex of the crease formation part A, and the mountain shape is sharpened.
It can be expressed angularly.

The three-dimensional shape of the fold-fold forming portion A is
Although it is folded in half at the center, since the stitches are affected by the knitting direction, it is not even on the left and right, and the left and right hypotenuses may show a difference in length. This means that if the conditions such as the knitting direction are appropriately set, the pleats can have various forms. Next, in FIG.
The above embodiment shows a case where the knitting structure is different.

In this embodiment, the basic yarn feeding course (I, II
I) is configured at the knitting position of the knitting needle for both the fold fold forming portion A and the ground knitting forming portion B, and the needle pull-out portion is not provided. The knitting yarn of the basic yarn feeding course is an inelastic yarn 2
It is a flat knitting organization consisting of only. Next, in the pleat forming courses (II, IV), the fold fold forming portion A is configured with 6 knitting needle mispositions (6 wells). The ground knitting formation section B is configured by eight knitting positions (8 wells) of knitting needles. The knitting yarn of this yarn supplying course has a flat knitting structure with the covered elastic yarn 3.

In the pleat knitted fabric knitted with such a knitting structure, a clear pleat pattern as shown in FIG. 3 is expressed as in the above embodiment. However,
In this embodiment, since the elastic yarn 1 does not exist in the basic yarn supplying course, the elastic restoring action in the vertical direction is reduced as compared with the above-mentioned embodiment. In each of the above-described examples, the interval between the fold fold forming portion A and the ground knitting forming portion B of the pleat knitted fabric can be appropriately changed depending on the design conditions of the pleat pattern. In order to express a beautiful pleat with the non-elastic yarn 2 of the basic yarn feeding course which is the front yarn, the number of wells (that is, the fold-fold forming portion A) that causes the covered elastic yarn 3 to be continuously missed in the pleat forming course is It is preferable to set the number of wells at the continuous knit positions (that is, the ground knitting formation portion B) or more.

Further, it is possible to express an iridescent color in which the color of threads is mixed with the pleated pattern. In this case, contrary to the above conditions, the number of wells of the fold-fold forming portion A is configured to be smaller than the number of wells of the ground knitting forming portion B, and the knitting yarn exerts a different color effect. It is advisable to dye the non-elastic yarn 2 of the basic yarn supply course, which is the front yarn, and the covered elastic yarn 3 of the pleats forming course, which is the back yarn in the ground knitting forming portion B, in colors that are complementary to each other.

Next, FIGS. 5 and 6 show specific examples of the arrangement structure of the pleats. In the embodiment of FIG. 5, the fold-fold forming portions A (portions indicated by hatching in the figure) and the ground knitting forming portions B (white portions in the figure) that are continuous in the vertical direction are alternately arranged in the horizontal direction. I'm out. For example, thin pleats are expressed in stripes by providing 5 wells for the fold fold forming portion A and 4 wells for the ground knitting forming portion B.

In the embodiment of FIG. 6, the fold fold forming portion A and the ground knitting forming portion B are arranged in a vertical and horizontal checkered pattern,
The pattern is so-called so-called Yasuri pattern. To form such a pattern, for example, a fold fold forming portion A of 5 wells and a ground knitting forming portion B of 4 wells are arranged in the horizontal direction, and both of them are formed every 200 courses in the vertical direction. The parts A and B may be arranged so that they are shifted by 5 wells to the right or left.

In addition to the embodiment of FIG. 5 or FIG. 6 described above, the arrangement pattern of the fold fold forming portion A and the ground knitting forming portion B can be freely configured to express various pattern variations. it can. An important property of pleated fabric is the durability of the pleats. The open angle method described below can be applied as a method for evaluating the pleat durability.

That is, a test piece of about 4 × 4 cm was cut out from the pleated portion of the test cloth and placed on a watch glass containing 0.1% nonionic penetrant (or neutral detergent) in advance.
After adding the test piece, it is immersed in water at 25 ° C. Then, gradually open the angle of the pleated portion of the test piece. After 2 minutes, the open angle θ (angle θ of the portion shown in FIG. 3) is measured with a protractor. The open angle θ is measured for ten test pieces, and the average open angle θm (θm = Σθ / 10) is obtained and evaluated.

Generally, in the technical field of manufacture and use of pleat knitted fabrics, an opening angle of 90 ° or less is considered to be a characteristic required for pleat knitted fabrics. Next, more specific examples and comparative examples of the present invention will be described. -Example 1-Polyester filament yarn 150-48-E220 (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., modified polyester long fiber, cationic dyeable "AHY" 110-115 ° C dyeing type) as an inelastic yarn constituting the basic yarn feeding course. Was used.

As the coated elastic yarn constituting the pleats-forming course, S430 (this is a polyurethane elastic yarn 40d by melt spinning as a core yarn, and as a sheath yarn, wooly nylon yarn 30d [nylon yarn 30 denier / 10 filament temporary More processed yarn], and as a covering twisting condition, a single covering ring twisting machine is used, and the twist number is 750.
T / M and S were used with a draft ratio of 4.0 times and covered.

As a circular knitting machine, a single circular knitting machine 24 gauge, 34 inch diameter FX-JS / 3 (Fukuhara Seiki, 37
Step Semi Jacquard machine) is equipped with a Spadex positive feeding device MER (made by Memminger-IRO of Sweden) and a positive feeding device MPF (made by the same) for polyester filament yarn, and the arrangement of knitting needles is as shown in FIG. Set.

After knitting under such conditions, the resulting raw fabric was subjected to a scouring treatment at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes, and then at a loco type jet dyeing machine (manufactured by Nippon Dyeing Machine) at 110 ° C. for 50 minutes. A dyeing process consisting of dyeing, drying, and finishing set was performed. The knitted fabric thus obtained was subjected to the pleat durability evaluation test, and the open angle was measured. The open angle was 45 °. The knitted fabric had a clear pleat pattern, and was a pleat knitted fabric having excellent elasticity recovery in the horizontal direction. When a women's shirt was sewn from this pleated fabric, an excellent product was obtained.

-Example 2-A basic yarn feeding course was constituted by splicing knitting of non-elastic yarn and elastic yarn. For non-elastic yarn, polyester filament yarn 15
0-48-F915 (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., modified polyester filament, cationic dyeable “LOC-II” 120 ° C. dyeing type) was used. For elastic yarn, spandex yarn 40
d, T-127C (manufactured by Toray-Dupont Co., Ltd., polyurethane elastic yarn, "Operon" registered trademark) was used.

The coated elastic yarns constituting the pleat forming course are S430 (LOC) ("Operon" 40d type 127C as a core yarn and LOCII-30d- as a sheath yarn).
12f-F900 was used, and the covering twisting condition was such that the twisting was 800 T / M, the twisting was performed at a draft ratio of 3.5 from Z). The circular knitting machine is a single circular knitting machine, a 24-gauge, 30-inch diameter XL-4R (made by Fukuhara Seiki), and a spandex positive feeding device MER.
(Same as Example 1) and two stages of polyester filament positive feeding device IRO-TAPE (made in Switzerland).

The arrangement of the knitting needles is as shown in FIG. 1, and the odd-numbered yarn feeders (I, III, ...) That are the basic yarn feeding course.
Has one needle puller at the center of the fold fold forming section A, and the even-numbered yarn feeders (II, IV, ...) Which are pleating yarn feeding courses are the fold fold forming section A. In order to continuously remove 9 needles, the upper and lower bats were arranged separately and knitted by cam needle selection.

The raw machine knitted by the circular knitting machine is 85 ° C. × 30
Minute scouring treatment, 120 ° C × 45 with a loco-type jet dyeing machine
Minute dyeing, drying, and finishing set were sequentially performed. As a result, the obtained pleat knitted fabric had a pleat having an opening angle of 48 ° and excellent resilience as in the above example. Particularly, in this example, the elastic stretchability in the vertical direction was better than that in the above examples. That is, the pleat knitted fabric of this example has elastic stretchability that is well balanced in both the vertical and horizontal directions, and reliably retains the initial good pleat shape even after repeated stretching. Was demonstrated.

Example 3 The basic yarn feeding course was constructed by splicing knitting yarns of non-elastic yarns and elastic yarns. Nylon thread 140-96-Y198 is used for the non-elastic thread.
("Yox": registered trademark, manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) was used. For the elastic thread, polyurethane elastic thread 40d, T-14
9B (manufactured by Toray DuPont, "Operon") was used.

The coated elastic yarns constituting the pleated forming course are S330 (Toray Dupont Co., Ltd. "Operon" 30d type 127C as a core yarn, and Toray Co., Ltd. wooly nylon yarns 30d-12F-50 as a core yarn.
00, the covering twisting condition is 800 T / number of twists.
Singly recovered from M and Z at a draft magnification of 3.5) was used.

The circular knitting machine used was a single computer jacquard circular knitting machine, 28 gauge, 34 inch diameter, SEC (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki) equipped with the same positive feeding device as in Example 2. The arrangement of the knitting needles was the same as in Example 2. The raw machine knitted under the above conditions is 65 ° C x 2
0 minutes scouring treatment, 96 ° C by Winsace dyeing machine
Dyeing, drying and finishing set for 40 minutes were sequentially performed.

As a result, the obtained pleat knitted fabric had an opening angle of 56 ° and had excellent quality performance as in Example 2. In particular, the pleated knitted fabric of this example was suitable for use in swimwear. -Example 4-The basic yarn feeding course was constituted by the splicing knitting of the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn. As the non-elastic yarn, a spun yarn obtained by dyeing polyester cotton blend 30s (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) in black was used. For the elastic thread, polyurethane elastic thread 30d, T-154C (Toray
"Operon" manufactured by DuPont Co., Ltd.) was used.

The coated elastic yarns constituting the pleated forming course are cotton core spun yarn 40d / 30s (manufactured by Nitto Boseki Co., Ltd., "Operon" 40d, T-127 as core yarn, and cotton fiber "rice" as sheath yarn. "Cotton from California", the spinning core yarn conditions are twist number 750 T / M, Z
Ring-spun at a draft ratio of 3.5) was dyed with black cheese and used.

The circular knitting machine is a double knit circular knitting machine, M-48.
(Osumi Iron Works Co., Ltd., 30 ″ φ × 48 mouth × 22 gauge) Remove the dial hook and use only the cylinder. As a positive feeding device, polyurethane elastic yarn (for bare) MER (same as each of the above embodiments) IRO-SF (the same as in the above example) was used for the cotton core spun yarn of the polyester cotton blended yarn and the coated elastic yarn. Was the same as in FIG.

The raw machine knitted under the above conditions has 8
After scouring treatment at 0 ° C. for 30 minutes, drying and finishing set were performed. As a result, the obtained pleat knitted fabric had an opening angle of 46 °, and had excellent quality performance as in Example 2. In particular, the pleated knitted fabric of this example was suitable for use in skirts and shirts.

Example 5 In Example 3, the arrangement of the knitting needles in the knitting pattern of FIG. 1 is such that the additional yarn knitting of the basic yarn feeding course is continued for 19 courses, and the next 1 course is the covering elasticity of the pleating formation course. The procedure was performed under the same conditions as the yarn and knitting machine as in Example 3 except that the configuration of the yarn was repeated. The dyeing finishing process was the same as in Example 2.

The pleated knitted fabric thus obtained is
The opening angle was 68 °, and excellent quality performance was provided as in each of the examples. In particular, the pleated knitted fabric of this example was suitable for swimwear. -Example 6-In Example 4, 30 s of non-elastic yarn polyester cotton blend
Dyed in black and coated elastic yarn 40d / 30s in red,
A pleat knitted fabric was produced by the same process as in Example 4 except that the black basic yarn feeding course and the red pleat forming course were alternately arranged for each course in the knitting pattern of FIG.

The pleated knitted fabric thus obtained is
The opening angle was 46 °, and excellent quality performance was provided as in each of the examples. In particular, the pleat knitted fabric of this example was suitable for a skirt, and when the skirt rocked during walking, the unique design effect that the surface changed to an iridescent color was exhibited. -Example 7-In Example 2, polyester filament yarn 150-48-F915 which is a non-elastic yarn is added to the basic yarn feeding course.
A pleated knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that only the above-mentioned ones were used.

In the pleat knitted fabric of this example, the opening angle was 50 °. Compared with Example 2, it was inferior in elastic resilience, but practically had sufficient quality performance. -Example 8--In Example 4, except that the knitting needle arrangement was such that no needle removal was performed in the basic yarn feeding course as shown in FIG.
A pleated knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in.

The pleat knitted fabric of this example had an opening angle of 52 ° and had excellent quality performance as in the above examples. However, the sharpness of the pleated pattern was inferior to that of Example 4. -Comparative Example-In Example 2, instead of the covered elastic yarn S430 (LOC) of the pleat forming course, a spandex yarn 40d which is an elastic yarn (the one used for the elastic yarn of the spliced yarn in Example 2) was used. A pleated knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that it was used.

The pleated knitted fabric of this comparative example was not found to be different from that of Example 2 in the greige state, but when the pleats and stretchability were confirmed by boiling off the bunting, spandex breakage was found scatteredly. . Therefore, in this invention, it was confirmed that it is necessary to use the covered elastic yarn in which the elastic yarn is covered with the non-elastic yarn in the course for forming pleats.

Further, the pleated knitted fabric of each of the above-mentioned examples has a large stretchability in the weft direction and a good repeated pleated property as compared with the case where a non-elastic yarn or a high shrinkage yarn is used for the pleated forming course. It was confirmed that it could be demonstrated and had good durability.

[0069]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY As described above, the method for producing a pleat knitted fabric and the pleat knitted fabric according to the present invention have excellent resilience in the pleat forming course which is continuously missed among the yarn feeding courses. By using the coated elastic yarn, three-dimensional pleats with clear folds can be formed,
Moreover, this pleat can immediately recover the original good pleat form even if the knitted fabric is expanded and contracted. Therefore, when the pleated knitted fabric of the present invention is used for various outerwear or innerwear, it can be elastically deformed and fit according to the body shape when worn, and can be worn for a long time or repeatedly worn. However, the pleats do not disappear or remain deformed, and a good appearance design can be expressed over a long period of time.

Moreover, if an elastic yarn is used for the pleats-forming course, it may not have sufficient durability and may be broken during knitting or wearing. However, in the present invention, the outer periphery of the elastic yarn is non-elastic. Since the coated elastic yarn coated with the yarn is used, it has sufficient durability, can form sharp pleats with strong elasticity during knitting, and has excellent durability during use.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a knitting organization chart showing an embodiment of the present invention.

[FIG. 2] A knitted fabric structure diagram schematically showing a knitting structure.

FIG. 3 is a schematic perspective view of a knitted fabric.

FIG. 4 is a knitting organization chart showing another embodiment.

FIG. 5 is a schematic plan view showing an arrangement example of pleats.

FIG. 6 is a schematic plan view showing another arrangement example of pleats.

[Explanation of symbols]

1 Elastic yarn 2 Inelastic yarn 3 Coated elastic yarn A Fold fold forming part B Ground knitting part X Needle pulling part I to VIII, C _{1 to} C ₁₂ Yarn feeding course W _{1 to} W ₂₀ well

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A method for knitting a pleated knitted fabric by combining a basic yarn feeding course which constitutes a basic structure of a knitted fabric with a yarn feeding course for pleating which causes a knitting needle to continuously miss for a plurality of wells. A method for manufacturing a pleated knitted fabric, which comprises knitting a yarn supplying course with a covered elastic yarn. 2. The method for producing a pleat knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the basic yarn supplying course is knitted with a splicing yarn consisting of an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the number of wells to be continuously missed in the pleat forming yarn feeding course is 20 or less, and the pleat forming yarn feeding course is set to 1 to 20 of the basic yarn feeding course. A method for manufacturing a pleated knitted fabric arranged for each course. 4. A pleated knitted fabric comprising a basic yarn feeding course constituting a knitted fabric and a pleated yarn feeding course in which knitting needles are continuously missed for a plurality of wells are knitted in combination to form a pleated knitted fabric. A pleated knitted fabric in which a yarn course is knitted with a covered elastic yarn.