JP3226801B2 - Base fabric for interlining and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a soft and soft texture, in which the amount of adhesive used is minimized when a base fabric for an adhesive interlining is sewn and press-bonded to a surface material, the penetration of resin is improved.
The present invention relates to an interlining base fabric excellent in transparency and surface-followability.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, interlining has been used in the manufacture of clothes from the viewpoints of formability, texture adjustment, ease of sewing, and the like.

The most important performance required for interlining is that it can sufficiently follow the dimensional change of the surface material. To satisfy such performance, for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-97937.
In Japanese Patent Application Publication No. H06-229, warp and weft have a total fineness of 20 to 100 denier, a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or less, and a total crimp ratio of 15 to 4
A woven fabric interlining using 0% false twisted yarn and having improved dimensional followability to a surface material has been proposed.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2-118104 discloses that a polyester false twisted yarn having a specific single yarn fineness, a total fineness, a crimp rate and a number of fluffs is used to provide softness, thinness, and lightness. Are described.

[0005] However, recently, clothing materials (outer material) have become thinner and easier to see through, and this tendency is particularly remarkable in spring and summer clothing. And, the thinner and softer the outer material, the thinner the interlining, the softer it is necessary to have excellent transparency, but the thinner the interlining,
When the outer material and the interlining material are to be bonded, there is a problem that the adhesive comes through.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, prevent the adhesive from slipping through when the outer material and the interlining material are bonded, and are soft and excellent in transparency. ,
An object of the present invention is to provide a base fabric for an adhesive interlining that has a good shape following property to a surface material.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the present inventors have found that a warp and / or a weft constituting an interlining base fabric have a crimped portion and a loop-like portion. The present inventors have found that false twisted crimped yarn in which non-crimped portions are mixed may be used, and have completed the present invention.

That is, according to the present invention, in a base fabric for interlining obtained by weaving false twisted crimped yarns on warps and / or wefts, the false twisted crimped yarns have a long length. A false twisted crimped yarn in which a crimped portion and a loop-shaped non-crimped portion are mixed in the direction, the average value of the length of the non-crimped portion is 5 to 20 cm, and 50 to 50 m / m of the processed yarn. An interlining base fabric characterized by having 200 loops, and in the length direction thereof, a crimped portion and a loop-shaped non-crimped portion are mixed, and the average value of the length of the non-crimped portion is 5 to 20 cm and 50 to 200 per meter
A false twisted crimped yarn having multiple loops is arranged on a warp and / or a weft to provide a weft cover factor of 500 to 1700.
The method for producing a base fabric for interlining is characterized in that the fabric is woven so as to have a weight reduction of 25 to 45%.

[0009]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The false twisted crimped yarn used for the warp and the weft of the interlining fabric according to the present invention is a false twist in which a crimped portion and a loop-shaped non-crimped portion are mixed in the length direction. A crimped yarn, such as a crimped yarn obtained by subjecting polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, polyacrylonitrile fiber, polyethylene fiber, polypropylene fiber, or the like to false twisting. Among them, polyester false twisted and crimped yarn is most preferably used from the viewpoint of interlining texture.

The total fineness of the crimped yarn is preferably 20 to 150 denier, and the single fiber fineness is preferably 3 to 8 denier. If the total fineness exceeds 150 denier, the ability of the interlining to follow the surface material is poor, while if the total fineness is less than 20 denier, the fabric may be too soft.

When the single fiber fineness exceeds 8 denier, the softness required as an interlining is impaired. On the other hand, when the single fiber fineness is less than 3 denier, the adhesion to the surface material becomes poor. There is.

The false-twisted crimped yarn used in the present invention must have a mixture of crimped portions and loop-shaped non-crimped portions in the length direction.

Here, the loop-shaped non-crimped portion refers to a portion having substantially no crimp and having a loop formed by air entanglement or the like, which will be described later.

When the number of non-crimped portions in the form of loops is not mixed in the above-mentioned crimped yarn, it is not possible to sufficiently prevent the adhesive from slipping through at the time of bonding to the surface material, and the transparency becomes poor.

However, if the proportion of the non-crimped portion is too large, the feel of the base fabric becomes hard, so the average length of the non-crimped portion needs to be 5 to 20 cm.

Further, the number of loops of the non-crimped portion needs to be 50 to 200 per m of the processed yarn.
If the number of the loops is less than 50, it is not possible to sufficiently prevent the adhesive from slipping through at the time of bonding to the outer material.
If the number exceeds the number, the soft feeling of the base fabric is impaired.

Such a false-twisted crimped yarn in which a crimped portion and a loop-shaped non-crimped portion coexist in the length direction can be obtained by, for example, using a normal drawing false-twisting device to synthesize polyester fiber or the like. After twisting and untwisting the fiber undrawn yarn while intermittently contacting the false twist heater using a traverse guide etc.,
It can be easily obtained by passing it through an air entangled nozzle typified by an interlace nozzle or a Taslan nozzle and providing a loop.

Next, the false twisted crimped yarn is arranged on a warp and / or a weft to provide a weft cover factor of 500 to 500.
After weaving to 1700, a weight reduction treatment of 25 to 45% is performed to obtain a base fabric for interlining.

At this time, the weave structure is preferably plain weave or twill weave.
In addition, the above-mentioned weight reduction treatment may be performed using a continuous weight reduction apparatus at a caustic soda concentration of 5 to 15% and a temperature of 85 to 100 ° C.

At this time, the above cover factor is 500
If the amount is less than the above range, a sufficient loop for biting into the outer material cannot be obtained, or a problem such as difficulty in applying an adhesive occurs, and the interlining and the outer material cannot be sufficiently bonded.

On the other hand, the above cover factor is 1700
If it exceeds, even if the weight loss treatment is performed, the flexibility as a woven fabric is significantly impaired when it is adhered to the surface material, and it cannot be used.

Further, if the above-mentioned weight loss rate is less than 25%, characteristics such as softness necessary for interlining are impaired. On the other hand, when the weight loss rate exceeds 45, not only the interlining becomes too soft, but also the strength of the interlining decreases, so that the interlining cannot be used as an interlining.

[0023] On the surface of the interlining fabric obtained by the above method, there are 2000 to 5000 loops having a height of 0.3 to 1.0 mm per square meter.

Accordingly, when the interlining and the interlining are overlapped and pressure is applied when the interlining base fabric is to be bonded to the outer material, the loops projecting to the interlining surface cut into the weave structure of the outer material,
Outer fabric and interlining are firmly bonded together. Thereby, the application amount of the adhesive can be greatly reduced. In particular, when the method of applying the adhesive in the form of minute points is employed, the number of points can be greatly reduced.

Since the use amount and area of the adhesive are reduced as described above, strikethrough of the adhesive can be greatly improved.

At this time, if the height of the loop is less than 0.3 mm, the length of the loop necessary for cutting into the surface material is insufficient, and the amount of the adhesive or the bonding point is required to sufficiently adhere to the surface material. Must be increased, and the object of the present invention cannot be achieved. On the other hand, if the height of the loop exceeds 1 mm, the stiffness of the loop becomes weak, and most of the loop breaks when the loop is eaten by applying pressure on the outer fabric, making it impossible to adhere. Furthermore, even if you eat,
The loop jumps out to the surface of the outer material, which undesirably impairs the texture of the outer material.

The number of loops is preferably 2000 to 5000 per square meter.

If the number of loops is less than 2,000, the bite to the surface is insufficient, and if the number is more than 5,000, the bite of the loop appears in the texture of the surface of the surface and becomes rough, which may impair the quality of the surface. .

Accordingly, in the case of a woven or knitted fabric having a thin outer material, the number of loops is preferably 2000 to 3000.

As for the method of bonding the outer material and the interlining material, it is only necessary to overlap the interlining material and the outer material and apply pressure from both sides, as in the case of bonding using a conventional adhesive.

[0031]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. The average length of the non-crimped portion and the number of loops in the examples were measured by the following methods.

(1) Average length of non-crimped part Ten pieces of 100 cm of the warp and weft of the fabric were randomly sampled, and a load of 0.002 g / denier was applied to measure the length of the non-crimped part. And their average was determined.

(2) Number of loops in the non-crimped portion Five 20 cm of warp and weft yarns of the fabric were randomly sampled, the number of loops was measured under a stereoscopic microscope, and the value was used as the number of loops.

(3) Height of Loop on Surface of Base Fabric A cloth having a size of 10 cm × 10 cm was sampled, and the height of the loop was measured under a stereoscopic microscope.

(4) Number of loops on the surface of the base fabric A cloth having a size of 10 cm × 10 cm was sampled, the number of loops was measured under a stereoscopic microscope, and the value was multiplied by 10 to obtain the number of loops.

(5) Form following property to surface material When the obtained base fabric was used as an adhesive interlining, the form following property to the surface material was sensory-determined by a practical wearing test by five skilled workers. A sample having moderate stretchability and good morphological followability was indicated by ○, a slightly poor morphological followability was indicated by △, and a sample having poor morphological followability was indicated by ×.

EXAMPLE A 30-denier / 6-filament polyester multifilament yarn was stretched using a normal drawing false twisting device equipped with a triaxial friction type disk false twisting device.
Under the condition that the temperature of the false twist heater is 230 ° C. and the ratio of the disk surface speed to the yarn running speed is 1.7, the polyester multifilament yarn is intermittently contacted with the false twist heater using a traverse guide, and the non-crimped portion is formed. Was subjected to false twist crimping so as to have an average length of 15 cm, and then air-entangled using a Taslan nozzle to give 100 loops per meter.

The obtained false twisted and crimped yarn is used for warp and weft, and a plain woven fabric is woven so that the cover factor of the weft becomes 876.
Using a 30% sodium hydroxide solution, a 32% weight loss treatment was performed to obtain an interlining fabric.

The surface of the obtained base cloth has a height of 0.4 to
There were 3000 loops of 0.9 mm per square meter.

After dyeing the cloth, a polyester-based adhesive was applied at a point of 10 points / cm ² to overlap with the fabric of the outer fabric, and was adhered to the outer fabric by applying pressure.

At this time, there was no strike-through of the adhesive, the fabric was soft and excellent in transparency, and the form conformity to the surface material was good, and the fabric was suitable for a thin blouse interlining for women.

[Comparative Example] The same operation as in Example 1 was performed except that ordinary false twist crimping was performed without using a traverse guide and air entanglement was not performed. The obtained fabric was insufficient in transparency, and the strike-through of the adhesive occurred. In addition, the morphological followability to the outer material was △.

[0043]

According to the present invention, there is provided an interlining fabric which is soft in texture, excellent in transparency, and entangled with the fabric itself, so that it can flexibly follow the change in form of the surface material. . Further, the amount of the adhesive used can be reduced to less than half, and the problem of the strike-through of the adhesive can be greatly reduced.

────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (56) References JP-A-2-118104 (JP, A) JP-A-4-11070 (JP, A) JP-A-3-40877 (JP, A) JP-A-8-108 218245 (JP, A) JP-A-7-258938 (JP, A) JP-A-7-118985 (JP, A) JP-A-7-109641 (JP, A) JP-A-4-194050 (JP, A) JP-A-3-130434 (JP, A) JP-A-9-132838 (JP, A) JP-A-8-109529 (JP, A) JP-A-7-324245 (JP, A) JP-A-5-311528 (JP, A) JP-A-5-148733 (JP, A) JP-A-5-54575 (JP, U) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D03D 1/00-27 / 18 D02G 1/00-3/48 D02J 1/00-13/00

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. A base fabric for an interlining obtained by weaving false-twisted crimped yarn on warp and / or weft, wherein the false-twisted crimped yarn is crimped in its length direction. Part and a loop-shaped non-crimped part are mixed false twisted crimped yarn, the average value of the length of the non-crimped part is 5 to 20 cm, and 50 to 50 m / m of the processed yarn.
An interlining base fabric having 200 loops. 2. The false twisted crimped yarn has a total fineness of 20 to 150.
The denier and single fiber fineness are 3 to 8 denier.
The base fabric for interlining described in the above. 3. A height of 0.3 to 1.0 mm on the surface of the base cloth.
2. The interlining fabric according to claim 1, wherein there are 2,000 to 5,000 loops per square meter. 4. A crimped portion and a loop-shaped non-crimped portion are mixed in the length direction, and the average value of the length of the non-crimped portion is 5 to 20.
After arranging false twisted crimped yarns having 50 to 200 loops per 1 m in warp and / or weft and weaving them so that the cover factor of weft becomes 500 to 1700, 25 to 45% A method for producing a base fabric for interlining, comprising performing a weight reduction treatment.