JP2865214B2 - Manufacturing method of woven interlining - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven fabric interlining having a thin, light and soft feel, which can be suitably used for women's blouses and dresses.

[Prior art]

Conventionally, as an interlining for women's blouses and dresses that are sewn using a thin outer material, a thin, light, and soft texture interlining is used so as not to impair the texture of the outer material. Has been requested. In order to respond to such demands, the following methods have conventionally been adopted. That is, (1) a method of obtaining a spun yarn using fine denier fiber (fineness fiber) as a raw material, weaving a woven fabric using the spun yarn, and setting the woven fabric as an interlining, and (2) subjecting the woven fabric to a weight reduction treatment (3) a method of weaving a woven fabric with a twisted spun yarn, which is a twister than usual, and a method of using this as an interlining; Has been adopted. According to the above methods (1) to (3),
An interlining having a light and soft feel can be obtained. However, in the method (1), there is a limit in reducing the denier of the fine denier fiber used. In other words, when obtaining a spun yarn, the fiber must be carded, but when it becomes about 0.7 denier or less,
Sometimes carding became impossible. Therefore, it was difficult to obtain a sufficiently thin, light, and soft interlining. In the method (2),
It is difficult to set the conditions of the weight loss treatment, and if the weight loss is too much, a hole occurs in the interlining, and if the weight loss is too small, the interlining is too thick, too heavy or has a bad feeling. . In the method (3), the short fibers sometimes slip through the spun yarn due to the sweet twist. That is, depending on the methods (1) to (3), the desired thin film is obtained.
It was difficult to obtain an interlining having a light and soft feel.

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

Therefore, the present invention uses a special conjugate fiber as a short fiber constituting a spun yarn in a woven fabric, and performs a weight reduction process on the woven fabric to generate a fine precision fiber derived from the conjugate fiber. It is intended to provide a woven fabric interlining having a thin, light, and soft feel.

[Means for Solving the Problems]

That is, the present invention is a composite fiber comprising an alkali-soluble polyester component and an alkali-poorly-soluble polyester component, wherein at least a part of the surface of the composite fiber is formed of the alkali-soluble polyester component, and In the cross-section of the conjugate fiber, a spun yarn is obtained using the conjugate fiber in which the alkali-insoluble polyester component occupies a plurality of independent regions as a main raw material, and a woven fabric is woven using the spun yarn. By subjecting the conjugate fiber to an alkali-reducing treatment, thereby dissolving and removing the alkali-soluble polyester component in the conjugate fiber to produce a plurality of fine-fiber fibers composed of only the alkali-poorly-soluble polyester component. And a method for producing the same. The conjugate fiber used in the present invention comprises an alkali-soluble polyester component 1 and an alkali-sparing polyester component 2. Here, the alkali-soluble polyester component is a component that is easily dissolved by the alkali reduction treatment performed later. On the other hand, the alkali-insoluble polyester component is a component that is less likely to be dissolved by the alkali reduction treatment performed later than the alkali-soluble polyester component. Specifically, a copolymer of an acid and an alcohol, which contains 1.5 to 10 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in the acid, is used as the alkali-soluble polyester component. As the poorly alkali-soluble polyester component, a conventionally known copolymer of an acid and an alcohol, for example, a copolymer of terephthalic acid and polyethylene glycol is used. At least a part of the surface of the composite fiber is formed of the alkali-soluble polyester component 1. This is because the alkali-soluble polyester component comes into contact with the alkali solution in the alkali reduction treatment to be performed later, so that the component can be dissolved and removed well. Unless at least a part of the surface of the conjugate fiber is formed of the alkali-soluble polyester component 1, the alkali-soluble polyester component 1 cannot be dissolved and removed by the alkali reduction treatment, which is not preferable. Further, in the cross section of the conjugate fiber, as shown in the figure, the poorly alkali-soluble polyester component 2 occupies a plurality of independent regions. This is because, after the alkali-soluble polyester component 1 is dissolved and removed, a plurality of fine fibers composed of only the alkali-insoluble polyester component are generated. In addition, the plural here means
It means two or more. The composite fiber described above is carded, and a spun yarn is obtained in a desired count and twist. The fineness (denier) of the composite fiber is preferably about 2.0 to 2.5 denier.
This is because if the content is at this level, the denier of the fine fiber composed only of the alkali-insoluble polyester component becomes 1.0 denier or less. The fiber length of the composite fiber is 35-51mm
The degree is preferred. This is because carding can be favorably performed to this extent. When a spun yarn is obtained, the spun yarn may be obtained only from the conjugate fiber. However, it is preferable to obtain a spun yarn by blending the conjugate fiber with a generally used polyester fiber. As the generally used polyester fibers, those having a fineness of about 0.7 to 1.2 denier and a fiber length of 35 to 51 mm are preferably used. As for the blend ratio, it is preferable to blend 50 to 90% by weight of the conjugate fiber and 50 to 10% by weight of a commonly used polyester fiber. If the amount of the conjugate fiber exceeds 90% by weight, the amount of the fiber composed of only the alkali-insoluble component of fineness increases due to the alkali reduction treatment performed later,
The twist of the spun yarn becomes sweet, and this fiber tends to slip through. If the conjugate fiber is used in an amount of less than 50% by weight, the amount of the fiber composed of only the alkali-insoluble component having a fine fineness is reduced, and the desired soft feeling tends to be not obtained. When a commonly used polyester fiber with a fineness of about 0.7 to 1.2 denier and a composite fiber with a fineness of about 2.0 to 2.5 denier are blended, the yarn structure at the time of twisting by spinning, the composite fiber becomes the core, The polyester fiber is used as the sheath. When a fabric made of a spun yarn having such a yarn structure is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment, a large number of voids are formed in a core portion of the spun yarn, and a void is not much formed in a sheath portion. Therefore, the fabric is lighter than the apparent and soft texture, which is preferable. A woven fabric is woven using the spun yarn obtained as described above. Conventionally known fabrics such as plain weave and satin weave can be used as the fabric structure. Then, the fabric is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment. The alkali reduction treatment is performed by a conventionally known method, that is, by immersing the fabric in warm water in which a predetermined amount of sodium hydroxide is dissolved. By this alkali reduction treatment, the alkali-soluble polyester component in the conjugate fiber is dissolved and removed, and as a result, a plurality of fine fibers composed of only the alkali-insoluble polyester component are generated. Along with this, the twist of the spun yarn also decreases, and the fabric becomes a sweet twist as compared to the fabric before the alkali weight reduction treatment.

【Example】

First, a conjugate fiber having a cross-sectional structure as shown in FIG. 1 was prepared. The weight percentage of the alkali-soluble polyester component 1 was 33%, and the denier of the fiber formed only from this component 1 was 0.9 denier. The weight percentage of the alkali-insoluble polyester component 2 was 67%, and component 2 occupied four independent regions in the cross section of the conjugate fiber. The fineness of the fineness fibers formed by these regions was 0.4 denier. In addition, the fineness of this composite fiber was 2.5 denier, and the fiber length was 44 mm. On the other hand, generally used polyester fibers having a circular cross section were prepared. The fineness of this polyester fiber is 0.
At 8 denier, the fiber length was 44 mm. The spinning count (Ne) of the composite fiber and polyester is 55 /-,
Spinning was performed so that the twist coefficient was 3.6, to obtain a spun yarn. Using this spun yarn, the weaving standard is 55 / − × 55 / − / 65 × 5
In the manner described above, a woven fabric was obtained. Then, a conventionally known alkali weight reduction treatment was performed to obtain woven fabric interlinings having various weight reduction rates. When the count and twist coefficient of the warp and the count and twist coefficient of the weft of the woven fabric interlining were measured, they were as shown in Table 1. The judgment with the cationic dye in Table 1 is obtained by dyeing the woven fabric base with the cationic dye and measuring the remaining alkali-soluble polyester component 1 which easily dyes the cationic dye. ○ indicates that alkali-soluble polyester component 1 hardly remains, and △ indicates that component 1 remains. From this result, it is considered that a weight loss rate of 35% is appropriate, and a weight loss rate of 45% is excessive. From the above results, the denier and the number of spun yarns at a weight reduction rate of 35% are estimated as shown in Table 2. In Table 2, α is the percentage of the amount of the alkali-insoluble polyester component or the generally used polyester fiber reduced when the woven fabric is reduced by 35% (unit is denier).
And d represents denier.

[Action and effect of the invention]

As described above, the present invention provides a spun yarn using a specific composite fiber as a main raw material, which is composed of an alkali-soluble polyester component and an alkali-sparing polyester component,
In this method, a woven fabric made of the spun yarn is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment to obtain a woven fabric interlining. Accordingly, the alkali-soluble polyester component is dissolved and removed by the alkali weight-reducing treatment, and a fine fiber containing only the alkali-insoluble polyester component is produced. As described above, in the present invention, the composite fiber composed of the alkali-soluble component and the alkali-poorly-soluble component is reduced in alkali content, so that the readily-soluble component is selectively dissolved and removed, and even if the processing conditions are not strict, the desired The effect that weight reduction processing can be performed is produced. And, by the generation of fineness fibers by weight loss processing,
As the spun yarn becomes flexible, voids are generated in the spun yarn, and the twist of the spun yarn itself is also reduced. Also, the fabric itself becomes thinner. Therefore, the woven interlining obtained by the method according to the present invention,
It has both a sufficient thickness and lightness, and has a soft feel. Therefore, this textile interlining can be suitably used as an interlining when sewing a women's blouse or dress on a thin outer material.

[Brief description of the drawings]

The drawing is a diagram showing an example of the cross section of the conjugate fiber used in the present invention. 1 ... alkali-soluble polyester component 2 ... alkali-poorly soluble polyester component

Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification symbol FI // D06M 101: 32

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A composite fiber comprising an alkali-soluble polyester component and a sparingly alkali-soluble polyester component, wherein at least a part of the surface of the composite fiber is formed of the alkali-soluble polyester component, and In the cross section of the fiber, a spun yarn is obtained from a composite fiber in which the alkali-insoluble polyester component occupies a plurality of independent regions as a main raw material, and a woven fabric is woven using the spun yarn. By performing an alkali weight loss treatment, the alkali-soluble polyester component in the conjugate fiber is dissolved and removed, and a plurality of fine fibers composed of only the alkali-poorly soluble polyester component are produced. Production method.