JP2652228B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetics, and more particularly, to cosmetics containing a combination of a monoacyl-type phospholipid and saponin.

[Problems to be Solved by Conventional Techniques and Inventions] In recent years, many studies on emulsification and solubilization have been made. As a result, emulsifiers and solubilizers and emulsification and solubilization techniques have advanced, and very stable emulsions and solubilizates have been utilized in many fields.

Most of the emulsifiers and solubilizers are nonionic surfactants having a polyoxyethylene chain, anionic surfactants represented by fatty acid soaps, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants. However, emulsified cosmetics and solubilized (transparent) cosmetics using these synthetic surfactants generally have a drawback of easily irritating skin and hair.

Against this background, attention has been focused on phospholipids, particularly monoacyl phospholipids. JP-A-61-112007
JP-A-61-171407 discloses a transparent cosmetic using a monoacyl-type phospholipid as a solubilizer, and discloses an emulsified cosmetic using a monoacyl-type phospholipid as an emulsifier. .

However, conventional transparent cosmetics and emulsified cosmetics prepared using monoacyl-type phospholipids have storage stability,
In particular, there was a problem in storage stability under low and high temperature environments. In addition, there is a need for further improvement in terms of sensory characteristics (especially smoothness persistence) and appearance (texture, transparency).

That is, when the transparent cosmetic is stored under a low temperature condition (5 ° C. or lower) or a high temperature condition (40 ° C. or higher), there is a problem that monoacyl-type phospholipids are precipitated or are easily obscured. On the other hand, when the emulsified cosmetic is stored under low-temperature conditions or high-temperature conditions, there has been a defect that the appearance such as viscosity and texture changes.

On the other hand, saponin is a compound in which a non-polar group (sapogenin) such as sterol or triterpene and a sugar (pentose, hexol, uronic acid, etc.) are bonded. Its presence is widely found in the plant kingdom with the exception of certain starfish. Many kinds of saponins are often present in one kind of plant. Saponin has recently been studied as a pharmaceutical ingredient, but its use in cosmetics is rare. It has been suggested that saponin (glycyrrhizins) as a licorice component is used in cosmetics in terms of anti-inflammatory action, anti-allergic action, antigen-antibody inhibitory action, steroid hormone action, etc. (Fragrance Journal, Vol 3, No. 4, 39-41, 1975).
In skin cosmetics containing oil from evening primrose seeds, it is known to incorporate an extract of the roots of mishimasaiko or rhizome as a stabilizer to prevent rancidity or oxidation of the oil, and the extract comprises saponin. (JP-A-61-17)
No. 8908). There is known a hair washing composition containing a water extract of the skin of a mud crust as a main component, and is said to exhibit a foaming power and a detergency that can be practically used for hair washing (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 52-125510). Hair restorations containing extracts of crude drugs such as wolfberry are known, and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan sesquioleate, or polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate is used as an emulsifier or solubilizer (JP-B-58-40923).

[Means for Solving the Problems] The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to solve the disadvantages of cosmetics using the monoacyl-type phospholipid, and as a result, the monoacyl-type phospholipid represented by the following general formula (1) or (2) It has been found that when a phospholipid and a saponin are used in combination, no precipitation or turbidity occurs during storage, and the organoleptic properties and appearance are improved.

The effect of such a combination is not predicted from the prior art.

That is, the present invention relates to a cosmetic containing an oily substance and water, wherein the following general formula (1) Or the following general formula (2) (In the above formula, R is A cosmetic comprising at least one compound represented by the formula: and at least one selected from saponins or saponin-containing plant extracts.

The compounds represented by the general formulas (1) and (2) in the present invention, that is, mono-O-acyl-3-glycerylphosphorylcholine, mono-O-acyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanolamine, mono-O-acyl-
3-glycerin phosphorylinositol itself is known. As the compound represented by the general formula (1), 1-
Palmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylcholine, 1-
Stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylcholine, 1-
Palmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanolamine, 1-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanolamine, 1-palmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylinositol, 1-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylinositol. Examples of the compound represented by the general formula (2) include 2-palmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylcholine, 2-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylcholine, 2-palmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanolamine, and 2-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanolamine. Examples include amine, 2-palmitoyl-3-glyceryl phosphoryl inositol, and 2-stearoyl-3-glyceryl phosphoryl inositol.

The compounds represented by the above general formulas (1) and (2) are, for example, treated with phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine or phosphatidylinositol obtained from egg yolk, as a raw material, with a snake venom phospholipase or a pancreatic extract enzyme of pig pancreas, Obtained by fractionation by high performance liquid chromatography. Alternatively, it can be obtained by chemical synthesis.

The compounds represented by the above general formulas (1) and (2) are safe for the human body.
As a result of testing according to the method described in the above, the animal skin irritation score and the human skin irritation score are all 0 (zero),
Confirmed to be non-irritating. (Draize, JH, As
sociation of Food and Drug officials of the United
States. “Appraisal of the Safety of Chemicala in
Foods, Drugs and Cosmetics ", 46 (1959), Texas, State
Department of Health, Austin.] The compounds represented by the general formulas (1) and (2) in the present invention are used alone or in combination of two or more as emulsifiers and solubilizers.

Saponins and plant extracts containing saponins used in the present invention are known.

The saponin in the present invention is defined as a compound in which a non-polar group (sapogenin) of sterol or triterpene and a sugar (pentose, hexose, uronic acid, etc.) are bonded as described above.

Its presence is generally and widely found in the plant kingdom, with the exception of certain starfish, and there are many types of saponins in one type of plant. In the present invention, the source and acquisition method are not particularly limited, for example, Pharmacia Vol.1
5, No. 10 897-899 (1979), Bakumon winter, Tianmen winter, commercial and commercial, Senega, Enshi, ginseng, soybean described in JP-A-56-161091, JP-A-56-160981 Amachazur and Fragrance Journal Vo described in -127316
l.3, No.4 39-41 (1975), licorice described in JP-A-61-178908, sunflower (Heti
anthus annuus L. seed, Mishima Saiko (Bupleurum)
falcatun L. root, Chiyu (Sanguisorba officinalis)
L.), the sapling of sapling described in JP-A-52-125510, the root of the mishima saiko described in JP-B-42-10923, and the like, as described in JP-B-58-40923. Iji, wolfberry, sicon, Fluff, Senega, Hamamelis, Giant strawberry, Altea and the like described in JP-A-57-106607 can be mentioned as sources containing saponin. In the present invention, a saponin-containing plant extract obtained by extracting the above various plants by a known method or a saponin obtained by purifying the same can be used.

Particularly preferred are saponins (α- or β-glycyrrhizin or a derivative thereof) obtained from licorice, muk roe peel extract, soybean saponin, rhizome extract of tea, tea seed extract, and camellia seed extract. Can be

The compounding amounts of the compounds represented by the above formulas (1) and (2) and the compounding amount (as saponin content) of the saponin or the plant extract containing saponin are approximately 0.01 to 10 based on the total amount of the cosmetic. % By weight, preferably
0.1 to 5% by weight.

If at least one of the compounds of the formulas (1) and (2) or saponin is less than the above amount, the storage stability of the cosmetic is inferior. On the other hand, if these are larger than the above amounts, they tend to decompose without being completely dissolved in the system, and the feel during use of the cosmetic tends to deteriorate.

The oily substance used in the present invention widely means an oily substance, such as oil-soluble flavors, oil-soluble vitamins, oil-soluble hormones, oil-soluble pigments, oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, and higher aliphatic hydrocarbons. , Vegetable fats, animal fats, waxes,
Examples include higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, and synthetic ester oils.

More specifically, examples of the oil-soluble flavor include an oil-soluble flavor extracted from a natural plant and a synthetic oil-soluble flavor. Examples of oil-soluble pitamines include vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamins of the vitamin K group, pyridoxine dicaprylate, pyridoxy dipalmitate, dl-α-tocopherol acetate, dl-α-tocopherol nicotinate, Vitamin derivatives such as ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl molpalmitate, and ascorbyl monostearate are exemplified. Examples of oil-soluble hormones include estradiol, ethinyl estradiol, estrone, diethylstilbestrol and the like, and examples of oil-soluble pigments include sudan
III, tetrabromofluorescein, dibromofluorescein, fluorescein, quinizarin green SS, etc., as oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, for example, oxybenzone,
Methyl 2,5-diisopropylcinnamate and the like.

As higher aliphatic hydrocarbons, for example, liquid paraffin, squalane, microcrystalline wax, vaseline, ceresin, etc., as vegetable oils, such as olive oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, palm oil, etc., and as animal oils, such as cod liver oil As beeswax, butterfat, etc., as waxes, for example, beeswax, carnauba wax, etc., and as higher fatty acids, for example, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, lanolin fatty acid, etc., as higher alcohols Is, for example, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
Examples of synthetic ester oils such as oleyl alcohol include linear esters such as butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, octyldodecyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate and diisopropyl sebacate, and branched chain esters.

These oily substances are used alone or in combination of two or more.

For transparent cosmetics such as lotions and hair tonics,
The amount of these oily substances is about 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.3% by weight based on the total weight of the ingredients.
% By weight. When the amount is less than about 0.0001% by weight, the inherent characteristic effect of the oily substance is reduced. When the amount is more than about 1% by weight, the solubilization tends to be difficult.

In the case of emulsified cosmetics such as creams and emulsions, the compounding amount of the oily substance is approximately 5 to 80% by weight, preferably 10 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the components in the emulsified composition.
% By weight. When the amount is less than about 5% by weight, the storage stability is slightly deteriorated, and the finish is too refreshing as an emulsified cosmetic. When the amount is more than about 80% by weight, the stickiness of the oil becomes remarkable, which is not preferable.

The cosmetic of the present invention may contain a humectant, a cosmetic active ingredient, a fragrance, a preservative, a colorant, an ultraviolet absorber, astringent, a synthetic surfactant, a pigment (kaolin, mica, sericite, talc) as necessary. , Yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, etc.) and water-soluble natural polymers (casein soda, pectin, xanthan gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan, etc.) can be added.

Examples of the cosmetics of the present invention include skin lotion, wiping lotion, soft lotion, acne treatment lotion, aftershave lotion, two-layer conditioning lotion, cleansing lotion, hair tonic, massage cream, cleansing cream, and skin cream , Skin milk, foundation cream, makeup base, hair cream, etc., but are not limited thereto.

[Examples] Examples will be described below.

 "Parts" shown in Examples means parts by weight.

The properties of the cosmetics investigated in the examples are storage stability,
Sensory characteristics, pH, permeability and appearance. The test method is as follows.

(1) Storage stability was measured at 45 ° C, 40 ° C and 30 ° C.
It was left in a thermostat at 5, 5, or 0 ° C for 3 months, 4 months, or 6 months, and its viscosity or the presence or absence of a precipitate was examined.

(2) The organoleptic properties include the feeling (freshness, moistness, stickiness, and smoothness) at the time of application, and the finish after application.
It was examined by three specialist inspectors and comprehensively evaluated.

(3) The pH was measured immediately after preparation of the cosmetic. The pH was measured after the pH meter having a glass electrode was sufficiently adjusted with a pH standard solution.

(4) The transmittance indicates the light transmittance of light having a wavelength of 450 nm. When the value is 80% or more, it is transparent to the naked eye.

(5) The appearance was visually evaluated for the coloring state and the like.

Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 Toners were prepared according to the formulations (parts by weight) shown in Table 1.
1-palmitoyl-3-glyceryl phosphorylcholine was used as a phospholipid. The licorice saponin used was obtained commercially and mainly contains α-glycyrrhizin.

Components 1 to 3 in the table were mixed and dissolved (solution 1), and components 4 to 7 in the table were separately mixed and dissolved (solution 2). Solution 1 to Solution 2
Was mixed to prepare a lotion. The properties of the obtained lotion are shown in Table 1.

As can be seen from the table, the lotions of Examples containing both phospholipid and saponin according to the present invention have excellent storage stability.
On the other hand, the lotions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 lacking either the phospholipid or the saponin have poor storage stability, and cause precipitation, cloudiness, and oil floating. The lotion of the present invention is also superior to the comparative example in sensory characteristics and transparency.

Examples 6 to 10 and Comparative Examples 3 to 4 Skin milks were prepared according to the formulations (parts by weight) shown in Table 2.

As the phospholipid, 2-palmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanolamine was used. As the saponin-containing extract, a water-containing ethanol extract of the pericarp of Sapindus mukurosii was purified and dried to obtain a powder. It contains 50-60% saponins.

The oil components 1 to 5 in the table were uniformly mixed and dissolved at about 80 ° C. (solution 1). The water-soluble components 6 to 10 of the components in the table and
12 was uniformly dissolved at about 80 ° C. (solution 2). Next, solution 2
While stirring with a homomixer, solution 1 was added, emulsified, and then cooled. The component 11 was added at 70 ° C. in the cooling process, and after the temperature was lowered to 30 ° C., the stirring was stopped.

 Table 2 shows the properties of the obtained skin milk.

As can be seen from the table, the skin milks of the examples comprising both phospholipids and saponins according to the invention have good storage stability. However, the skin milks of Comparative Examples 3 and 4 lacking either the phospholipid or the saponin are remarkably thickened or thinned during storage and are unstable. The skin milk of the present invention is also significantly superior in sensory characteristics to the comparative example, and has a good appearance.

Example 11 and Comparative Example 5 (Skin cream) A skin cream was prepared according to the following formulation (parts by weight).
1-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphoryl inositol was used as the phospholipid, and soybean saponin (saponin content about 80%) was used as the saponin.

Example 11 Comparative Example 5 1 Olive oil 5.0 5.0 2 Liquid paraffin 15.0 15.0 3 Beeswax 3.0 3.0 4 Cetyl alcohol 7.0 7.0 5 Glyceryl monostearate 3.0 3.0 6 White petrolatum 3.0 3.0 7 1-Stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphoryl inositol 0.5 0.58 Maltitol solution 10.0 10.0 9 Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.2 0.2 10 Soybean saponin 0.5-11 Fragrance 0.1 0.1 12 Purified water 52.7 53.2 Of the above components, oily components 1 to 6 were uniformly mixed and dissolved at about 80 ° C (solution 1). ). Among the above components, water-soluble components 7 to
10 and 12 were uniformly mixed and dissolved at about 80 ° C. (solution 2). Next, while stirring the solution 2 with a homomixer, the solution 1 was added, emulsified, and then cooled. The cooling process
Component 11 was added at 70 ° C, and after the temperature was lowered to 30 ° C, stirring was stopped.

The skin cream of Example 11 thus obtained was an o / w emulsion, and had extremely good stability when stored in a thermostat at 45 ° C. for 4 months. It was also extremely stable after storage at 0 ° C. and 5 ° C. for 6 months. No alteration or odor occurred. In addition, the appearance such as skin texture is good, feel,
The moisturizing property and the usability (stretch, elongation, etc.) were good.

The skin cream of Comparative Example 5, which was prepared in the same manner as in Example 11 except that soybean saponin was not used and 53.2 parts of water was used, was an o / w type emulsion and was prepared in a thermostat at 45 ° C. When stored for months, creaming occurred and storage stability was poor. Further, when stored at 0 ° C. for 6 months, the texture became worse and smoothness after application could not be obtained.

Instead of the soybean saponin in Example 11, a skin cream prepared using a licorice extract (β-glycyrrhizin), a sapling pericarp extract, a tea seed extract, a camellia seed extract or a rhizome rhizome extract, The behavior was almost the same as that of the skin cream of Example 11.

[Effect of the Invention] The cosmetic of the present invention has extremely excellent storage stability at high and low temperatures, and also has extremely good organoleptic properties and appearance.

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A cosmetic containing an oily substance and water, comprising the following general formula (1): Or the following general formula (2) (In the above formula, R is Or A cosmetic comprising at least one compound represented by the formula: and at least one selected from saponin or a saponin-containing plant extract.