CN112957291A - Skin-whitening and anti-aging skin-care composition - Google Patents
Skin-whitening and anti-aging skin-care composition Download PDFInfo
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- CN112957291A CN112957291A CN202110189086.7A CN202110189086A CN112957291A CN 112957291 A CN112957291 A CN 112957291A CN 202110189086 A CN202110189086 A CN 202110189086A CN 112957291 A CN112957291 A CN 112957291A
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- whitening
- aging skin
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
- A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
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- A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
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- Public Health (AREA)
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- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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- Biophysics (AREA)
- Molecular Biology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
Abstract
The invention provides a skin-care composition for whitening and resisting aging, which comprises the following components in part by weight: the skin-whitening and anti-aging skin-care composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 2-20% of plant extract, 10-30% of glyceride, and the balance of dispersing matrix and inevitable impurities; the plant extract comprises a paper mulberry extract, and the mass percentage of the paper mulberry extract in the active ingredients is not less than 50%. According to the invention, the paper mulberry extract, the ginsenoside and the tanshinone are taken as effective active ingredients and added into the skin care product matrix containing glyceride, so that the prepared skin care product has good repairing, anti-aging and whitening effects.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of daily chemical products, and particularly relates to a skin-care composition for whitening and resisting aging.
Background
The paper mulberry is one of deciduous trees, is widely distributed in various parts of Asia, can be used as a medicine for roots and seeds, can treat skin diseases by sap, and has high economic value. In the last two decades, scholars at home and abroad have conducted a great deal of research on chemical components and biological activities of paper mulberry, and various chemical components, mainly including coumarin, triterpenes, alkaloids, fatty oil and a great deal of flavonoids and diphenyl propane compounds, are separated from the paper mulberry. It is widely reported that various broussonetias alcohols contained in broussonetia papyrifera can inhibit the expression of inflammatory cytokines, have excellent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and bacteriostatic effects, and can improve skin tissues. Based on the skin care property of the paper mulberry extract, the paper mulberry extract is used as an effective active ingredient to be added into a skin care product, and is beneficial to popularization and application of the paper mulberry extract.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention aims to provide a whitening and anti-aging skin care composition to solve at least one of the above technical problems.
According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a whitening anti-aging skin care composition: the skin-whitening and anti-aging skin-care composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 2-20% of plant extract, 10-30% of glyceride, and the balance of dispersing matrix and inevitable impurities; the plant extract comprises a paper mulberry extract, and the mass percentage of the paper mulberry extract in the active ingredients is not less than 50%; the broussonetia extract is prepared according to the following method: s1, mixing a paper mulberry sample and an extraction solvent according to the ratio of 1: 12-15, adjusting the pH of the mixed solution to acidity, and mixing an extraction solvent which is a 50% ethanol aqueous solution and formamide according to a volume ratio of 8-10: 1; s2, heating the mixed solution to 40-60 ℃, and preserving heat for 1.8-3 hours; s3, collecting an extracting solution; the plant extract also comprises at least one of ginsenoside and tanshinone.
Preferably, the plant extract comprises 50-60% of broussonetia papyrifera extract, 20-40% of ginsenoside and 20-40% of tanshinone in percentage by mass.
Preferably, the glyceride comprises glycerophospholipid, and the mass percentage of the glycerophosphate in the glyceride is 20-50%.
Preferably, the glyceride also comprises caprylic/capric triglyceride, and the caprylic/capric triglyceride accounts for 50-80% of the glyceride by mass.
Preferably, the glyceride composition is 30-35% of glycerophospholipid and 65-70% of caprylic/capric triglyceride in percentage by mass.
Preferably, the dispersion matrix is water.
Preferably, the paper mulberry sample used for preparing paper mulberry extract is paper mulberry root bark.
Preferably, cellulase is introduced in S2 for auxiliary treatment during preparation of the broussonetia papyrifera extract.
Preferably, S2 includes: s2.1, adding cellulase into the mixed solution obtained in the step S1, wherein the final content of the cellulase in the mixed solution is 5 multiplied by 104～9×104U/kg; s2.2, heating the mixed solution in a water bath to 40-50 ℃, and preserving heat for 1.8-3 hours; and S2.3, inactivating the enzyme in a boiling water bath.
Preferably, the extract is prepared by mixing 50% ethanol water solution and formamide according to the volume ratio of 9.25: 1.
Based on the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of the paper mulberry extract, the paper mulberry extract is used as an effective active ingredient and added into a skin care product matrix containing glyceride, so that the prepared skin care product has good repairing and anti-aging effects. The glyceride has good moisturizing effect, can optimize the moisturizing performance of the skin care product, can delay the water volatilization of the skin care product, and is beneficial to the diffusion and permeation of the plant extract on the surface of the skin. The ginsenoside and the tanshinone are compounded with the broussonetia papyrifera extract, so that the prepared skin care product has excellent repairing effect and whitening effect. In addition, the ginsenoside has good thickening and emulsifying effects, can form lamellar crystals together with glyceride under the combined action of the glyceride, wraps the plant extract, stably exists in a dispersion matrix of the skin care product, and can optimize the moisturizing effect and the effective action duration of the skin care product.
The glycerophospholipid has good lipophilicity and hydrophilicity, and is a main component of a biological cell membrane, and the glycerophospholipid added into the skin care product can play a good emulsifying role, can be used as an effective active substance for promoting skin cell regeneration, improves skin problems such as roughness and wrinkles and enables the skin to have luster.
Whether the active substances in the paper mulberry can be effectively utilized is closely related to the extraction process. In paper mulberry plants, broussonetia papyrifera capable of inhibiting expression of inflammatory cytokines has rich carbonyl and phenolic hydroxyl, formamide belongs to a proton type solvent with strong polarity, wherein protons connected with N ions have high activity, and can form hydrogen bonds with broussonetia papyrifera to promote dissolution of broussonetia papyrifera. In addition, the invention utilizes enzyme treatment to assist the wall breaking of the broussonetia papyrifera sample, on one hand, the extraction time can be shortened, the extraction temperature can be reduced, on the other hand, the premature hydrolysis of the formamide under the high-temperature condition can be avoided, and therefore, the extraction efficiency and the product quality can be ensured. In paper mulberry plants, paper mulberry root bark is used as a paper mulberry sample in the scheme, and an extract with high growth promoting factor secretion activity can be obtained. Aiming at the structure of the broussonetia papyrifera root bark, cellulase is selected as enzyme for enzymolysis treatment, so that the cell wall of root bark cells can be effectively degraded, and the release of broussonetia papyrifera alcohol is promoted. Further, through the optimization design of the scheme, within the parameter range selected by the invention, the cellulase can keep good activity in a solution environment containing formamide, and meanwhile, the reaction process also has higher controllability.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a statistical graph of tyrosinase inhibition in the test skin care emulsions of example 2;
fig. 2 is a statistical graph of HaCaT cell proliferation rates corresponding to the skin care emulsions tested in example 2.
Detailed description of the preferred embodiments
In order to make the technical solutions of the present invention better understood by those skilled in the art, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments.
Example 1
In this example, 4 treatment groups were set, and different schemes were respectively used to perform broussonetia papyrifera root bark extraction experiments, and broussonetia papyrifera extracts with good anti-inflammatory cytokine activity and anti-oxidation properties were obtained by adjusting the experimental parameters of the extraction experiments.
1. Paper mulberry root bark extraction experiment
Treatment I:
the processing group adopts the broussonetia papyrifera root as an extracted sample, and the extraction of the broussonetia papyrifera sample is carried out according to the following steps:
s1, mixing the minced broussonetia papyrifera root and bark with an extraction solvent according to a material-liquid ratio of 1:13, and adjusting the pH of a mixed solution to acidity, wherein the extraction solvent is formed by mixing a 50% ethanol water solution and formamide according to a volume ratio of 9.25: 1;
S2.
s2.1, adding cellulase into the mixed solution to ensure that the cellulase has a final content of 7.5 multiplied by 10 in the mixed solution4U/kg。
S2.2, carrying out water bath enzymolysis for 2 hours;
s2.3, increasing the temperature of the water bath, and inactivating the enzyme for 5 minutes by using the boiling water bath;
S3.
s3.1, filtering, then performing centrifugation operation on the filtrate at 10000r/min for 5 minutes, and collecting the centrifuged supernatant;
s3.2, purifying the collected supernatant by silica gel column chromatography, and performing gradient elution by using a methanol aqueous solution: 55% methanol aqueous solution → 75% methanol aqueous solution → 100% methanol, and the amount of the eluent is 3 times the volume of the column.
And (4) treatment II:
the processing group adopts the broussonetia papyrifera root as an extracted sample, and the extraction of the broussonetia papyrifera sample is carried out according to the following steps:
s1, mixing the chopped paper mulberry root and bark with an extraction solvent according to a material-liquid ratio of 1:20, and adjusting the pH of a mixed solution to acidity, wherein the extraction solvent is formed by mixing a 50% ethanol aqueous solution and formamide according to a volume ratio of 9.25: 1;
S2.
s2.1, heating the mixed solution obtained after the treatment of S1 to a certain temperature, and preserving heat for 2 hours;
s2.2, increasing the heating temperature, and inactivating enzyme at high temperature for 5 minutes;
S3.
s3.1, filtering, then performing centrifugation operation on the filtrate at 10000r/min for 5 minutes, and collecting the centrifuged supernatant;
s3.2, purifying the collected supernatant by silica gel column chromatography, and performing gradient elution by using a methanol aqueous solution: 55% methanol aqueous solution → 75% methanol aqueous solution → 100% methanol, and the amount of the eluent is 3 times the volume of the column.
Treatment III:
the processing group adopts the broussonetia papyrifera root as an extracted sample, and the extraction of the broussonetia papyrifera sample is carried out according to the following steps:
s1, mixing the chopped paper mulberry root bark with 50% ethanol according to a material-liquid ratio of 1:25, and adjusting the pH value of the mixed solution to acidity;
S2.
s2.1, adding cellulase into the mixed solution to ensure that the cellulase has a final content of 7.5 multiplied by 10 in the mixed solution4U/kg。
S2.2, carrying out water bath enzymolysis for 2 hours;
s2.3, increasing the temperature of the water bath, and inactivating the enzyme for 5 minutes by using the boiling water bath;
S3.
s3.1, filtering, then performing centrifugation operation on the filtrate at 10000r/min for 5 minutes, and collecting the centrifuged supernatant;
s3.2, purifying the collected supernatant by silica gel column chromatography, and performing gradient elution by using a methanol aqueous solution: 55% methanol aqueous solution → 75% methanol aqueous solution → 100% methanol, and the amount of the eluent is 3 times the volume of the column.
And (4) treatment IV:
the processing group adopts the broussonetia papyrifera root as an extracted sample, and the extraction of the broussonetia papyrifera sample is carried out according to the following steps:
s1, mixing the chopped paper mulberry root and bark with 50% ethanol according to a material-liquid ratio of 1:30, and adjusting the pH value of the mixed solution to acidity;
S2.
s2.1, heating the mixed solution obtained after the treatment of S1 to a certain temperature, and preserving heat for 2 hours;
s2.2, increasing the heating temperature, and inactivating enzyme at high temperature for 5 minutes;
S3.
s3.1, filtering, then performing centrifugation operation on the filtrate at 10000r/min for 5 minutes, and collecting the centrifuged supernatant;
s3.2, purifying the collected supernatant by silica gel column chromatography, and performing gradient elution by using a methanol aqueous solution: 55% methanol aqueous solution → 75% methanol aqueous solution → 100% methanol, and the amount of the eluent is 3 times the volume of the column.
2. Inflammatory cytokine inhibition assay
Study on influence of TGF-beta 1 on artificial skin photodamage inflammatory factors IL-1 alpha, IL-6 and TNF-alpha [ J]The construction method of the artificial skin provided by dermatosis and venereal disease 2011,33(5): 252-: taking epidermal tissues of the experimental mouse, separating fibroblasts and keratinocytes, and culturing for later use; injecting fetal calf serum into the fibroblast suspension, wherein the final concentration of the fetal calf serum (collagen) is 1.5 mg/mL; adjusting the pH of the cell suspension to 7.2; injecting the cell suspension obtained in the way into a cell culture pool, placing the cell culture pool in a cell culture box, and incubating overnight at 37 ℃; coagulating the cell suspension into jelly-like collagen, inoculating keratinocyte suspension in the center of the collagen, adding K-SFM culture medium, culturing at 37 deg.C in an incubator with CO introduced into the incubator2(ii) a Removing culture medium in the cell culture pond after one week, adding K-SFM culture medium containing 10% fetal calf serum outside the cell culture pond, culturing in a 37 deg.C incubator, introducing CO into the incubator during the culture process2And culturing for 14 days for later use. The control thus prepared was set up as follows: for the control group samples, 500. mu.L of fresh K-SFM medium was replaced.
Experiment set setting mode: 50 mu L of paper mulberry root-bark extract to be detected and 450 mu LK-SFM culture medium are mixed and then the culture medium in the specimen of the experimental group is replaced.
Irradiating the control group and experimental group with ultraviolet rays, and placing the samples in a 37 deg.C incubator (introducing CO)2) After culturing for 24 hours, the supernatant was collected and the TNF-. alpha.concentration in the culture supernatants of the control and experimental artificial skin was measured by ELISA. With C0TNF-alpha concentration as control group, as C1For the TNF-. alpha.concentration in the experimental group, the inhibition ratio of TNF-. alpha.was set as (C)0－C1)/C0。
3. Determination of DPPH radical scavenging ability
Absorbance A was measured at a wavelength of 517nm with DPPH-methanol solution as a control0Parallel readings were 3 times; sucking paper mulberry extract sample 1mL into test tube, adding 4.5mL of 0.1 mmol/L DPPH-methanol solution, shaking thoroughly, reacting in dark for 30min, and measuring absorbance A at wavelength of 517nm1Parallel readings were 3 times; with (A)0－A1)/A0The DPPH radical clearance rate is characterized.
Parallel experiments are respectively set in the treatment I, the treatment II, the treatment III and the treatment IV, the results of the test of the cell inflammatory factor inhibition experiment and the test of the DPPH free radical scavenging ability are used as evaluation criteria, the optimal parameter groups of the treatment groups are screened, and the cell inflammatory factor inhibition rate and the DPPH free radical scavenging ability corresponding to the optimal parameter groups are counted, and the statistical results are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 preferred combination of parameters for each treatment group and their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant effects
In the extraction experiment process set in the treatment I, the reaction controllability is strong, no obvious tail gas and toxic substances are generated, and the obtained product has good TNF-alpha inhibition rate and DPPH free radical clearance rate. In the parallel experiments respectively set by the treatment II, the treatment III and the treatment IV, under the condition that the extraction temperature is lower than 50 ℃, the TNF-alpha inhibition rate and DPPH free radical clearance rate corresponding to the extracts are lower, and probably the extraction efficiency of the paper mulberry sample is lower in the extraction reaction environment provided by the three treatment groups. After optimization of the parameters, the optimum extraction temperatures of the three treatment groups were higher than that of treatment I, however, even at the optimum extraction temperatures, the TNF- α inhibition and DPPH radical scavenging rates of the extracts obtained from treatment II, treatment III and treatment IV were lower than those of the extract obtained from treatment I. Proved that the extraction of the paper mulberry sample by using the extracting solution formed by compounding the cellulose-assisted ethanol and formamide can reduce the optimal extraction temperature on one hand, and on the other hand, the prepared extract has excellent TNF-alpha inhibition rate and DPPH free radical clearance rate.
Example 2
1. Formulation preparation
The broussonetia papyrifera extract used in this example was prepared as follows:
the processing group adopts the broussonetia papyrifera root as an extracted sample, and the extraction of the broussonetia papyrifera sample is carried out according to the following steps:
s1, mixing the minced broussonetia papyrifera root and bark with an extraction solvent according to a material-liquid ratio of 1:13, and adjusting the pH of a mixed solution to 6.2, wherein the extraction solvent is formed by mixing a 50% ethanol water solution and formamide according to a volume ratio of 9.25: 1;
S2.
s2.1, adding cellulase into the mixed liquor to ensure that the cellulase is 7.5 multiplied by 104U/kg in the mixed liquor.
S2.2, carrying out water bath enzymolysis for 2 hours in warm water at 48 ℃;
s2.3, increasing the temperature of the water bath, and inactivating the enzyme for 5 minutes by using the boiling water bath;
S3.
s3.1, filtering, then performing centrifugation operation on the filtrate at 10000r/min for 5 minutes, and collecting the centrifuged supernatant;
s3.2, purifying the collected supernatant by silica gel column chromatography, and performing gradient elution by using a methanol aqueous solution: 55% methanol aqueous solution → 75% methanol aqueous solution → 100% methanol, and the amount of the eluent is 3 times the volume of the column.
The broussonetia papyrifera extract prepared according to the steps is adopted to participate in the preparation of the skin care emulsion according to the formula provided in the table 2. Weighing the required materials of each formula according to the records in the table 2, quickly and fully mixing the required materials in a dark environment at the temperature of 20-25 ℃ to obtain a finished product, and sealing the finished product in the dark for later use.
TABLE 2 formulation composition of skin care lotion
2. Performance testing
(1) Emulsion stability test
And (3) stability testing: heat resistance 40 ℃ test: and (3) placing the sample in a 40 ℃ oven, observing whether the sample has abnormal phenomena such as layering, flocculation and the like, judging the sample to be 'non-passing' if the sample exists, and judging the sample to be 'passing' if the sample does not exist.
And (4) microscopic observation: a small amount of sample is placed on a glass slide, the sample is slightly flattened by a cover glass, and the quantity and distribution of liquid crystal of the sample are observed.
(2) Test of whitening Effect
In melanocyte, melanin is dopa formed by tyrosine catalyzed by tyrosinase, dopaquinone formed by tyrosinase, 5, 6-quinoindole formed by rearrangement, and melanin protein formed by polymerization and structural protein in melanosome. It follows that tyrosinase plays a key role in melanin synthesis. Based on this, in this embodiment, the inhibition effect of the product on tyrosinase is taken as the characterization of the whitening effect of the product.
The tyrosinase inhibition experiment is set according to a scheme provided by Jia Virgiang and the like (Jia Virgiang, Dingshiying, Xiaojia Jing, Zhangxinlian, Chijihuhong, Sun Bo. ginsenoside nanoemulsion whitening and anti-aging effects and safety evaluation thereof [ J ]. China journal of Biochemical medicines 2015,35(9): 19-22).
(3) Testing of repair Effect
Taking human immortalized epidermal cells (HaCaT thin cell) in logarithmic growth phaseCells) were plated in 96-well plates, and 100. mu.L of cell suspension was inoculated per well and placed at 37 ℃ in 5% CO2The culture was carried out overnight in an incubator. The next day, the cell plates were removed, the supernatant was discarded, and 100. mu.L of the test product (medium diluted to 50. mu.g/mL) and 100. mu.L of the medium was added to each well of the experimental group and the control group, respectively. In addition, HaCaT cells were not added to one well, and only the culture medium was added (the well was used for zeroing in the case of color comparison). Placing the 96-well culture plate at 37 deg.C and 5% CO2Cultured in an incubator. At the end of the incubation period, 10. mu.L of MTT solution at a concentration of 5mg/mL was added to each well in sequence and incubation was continued for 4 hours. Discard 100 μ L of culture supernatant in wells, add 100 μ L of LDMSO per well and shake well until the crystals are fully dissolved. The absorbance (OD) of each well was measured by selecting a 570nm wavelength on an ELISA detector.
3. Results of the experiment
(1) Emulsion stability
The heat resistance test results of the reference products are shown in table 3, and the reference products respectively corresponding to the formula 1# and the formula 2# have good heat resistance, and no delamination or flocculation occurs until the heat resistance test is finished. The product corresponding to the formula No. 3 does not contain ginsenoside, and the heat resistance stability of the product is obviously inferior to that of other groups of test products, so that the ginsenoside is favorable for the heat stability of the emulsion. The heat stability of the products corresponding to the formulas 4#, 5# and 6# is compared with that of the product corresponding to the formula 1#, which can show that the addition of the glycerophospholipid can improve the heat stability of the emulsion, and the addition of the glycerophospholipid is more harmful to the heat stability of the emulsion along with the further increase of the dosage ratio of the glycerophospholipid to the caprylic/capric triglyceride, and the concentration gradient test of the glycerophospholipid is carried out, so that the obtained emulsion has good heat stability when the mass percentage of the glycerophospholipid in the total glyceride in the formula is not more than 50%.
TABLE 3 Heat stability of skin care emulsions
The conditions of the lamellar liquid crystals contained in the respective reference products are shown in table 4, and the contents and the uniformity of the lamellar liquid crystals in the emulsion of the respective reference products corresponding to the formula 3# and the formula 4# are significantly lower than those of the other reference products through microscope observation. Based on this, it is inferred that the combination of ginsenoside and glycerophospholipid is beneficial to forming liquid crystal, and the formation of liquid crystal is beneficial to improving the stability and the moisturizing performance of the emulsion. In addition, the amount of the glycerophospholipid significantly affects the uniformity of the liquid crystal in the emulsion, and if the amount of the glycerophospholipid is too high, the uniformity of the liquid crystal in the emulsion is reduced.
TABLE 4 liquid Crystal phenomena in skin care emulsions
| Recipe number | Phenomenon of liquid crystal |
| Formulation No. 1 | Has more liquid crystals and good liquid crystal uniformity |
| Formulation No. 2 | Has more liquid crystals and good liquid crystal uniformity |
| Formulation No. 3 | Has a small amount of liquid crystal and has a poor liquid crystal uniformity |
| Formulation No. 4 | There is a small amount of liquid crystal, but the liquid crystal uniformity is goodGood taste |
| Formulation No. 5 | There are many liquid crystals, but the liquid crystal uniformity is poor |
| Formulation No. 6 | There are many liquid crystals, but the liquid crystal uniformity is poor |
(2) Whitening effect
Fig. 1 shows tyrosinase inhibition effects of skin care emulsions tested, and tyrosinase inhibition rates of products tested corresponding to formula 3# are obviously lower than those of other products tested, so that the results show that the skin care emulsions prepared by compounding the ginsenoside and the broussonetia papyrifera extract have synergistic effects, can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity, and have good whitening effects.
(3) Testing of repair Effect
The HaCaT cell proliferation experimental result (fig. 2) set in this example shows that all reference products in this example can promote the proliferation of HaCaT cells, wherein, compared with products having formula 2#, formula 3#, and formula 4#, the HaCaT cells show obvious proliferation advantages in the culture environment containing the product having formula 1#, which indicates that broussonetia papyrifera extract, ginsenoside, tanshinone, and glycerophospholipid involved in the formula are effective components for promoting the proliferation of HaCaT cells, and the components are compounded for use and synergized, so that the skin care emulsion prepared by the components has a good repairing effect.
Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the true spirit and scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A whitening and anti-aging skin care composition is characterized in that:
the skin-whitening and anti-aging skin-care composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 2-20% of plant extract, 10-30% of glyceride, and the balance of dispersing matrix and inevitable impurities;
the plant extract comprises a paper mulberry extract, and the mass percentage of the paper mulberry extract in the active ingredients is not less than 50%; the broussonetia extract is prepared according to the following method: s1, mixing a paper mulberry sample and an extraction solvent according to the ratio of 1: 12-15, and adjusting the pH of the mixed solution to acidity, wherein the extraction solvent is formed by mixing 50% ethanol water solution and formamide according to a volume ratio of 8-10: 1; s2, heating the mixed solution to 40-60 ℃, and preserving heat for 1.8-3 hours; s3, collecting an extracting solution;
the plant extract also comprises at least one of ginsenoside and tanshinone.
2. The whitening anti-aging skin care composition of claim 1, wherein: the composition of the plant extract comprises, by mass, 50-60% of the broussonetia papyrifera extract, 20-40% of the ginsenoside and 20-40% of the tanshinone.
3. The whitening anti-aging skin care composition of claim 1, wherein: the glyceride comprises glycerophospholipid, and the mass percentage of the glycerophosphate in the glyceride is 20-50%.
4. The whitening anti-aging skin care composition of claim 3, wherein: the glyceride also comprises caprylic/capric triglyceride, and the caprylic/capric triglyceride accounts for 50-80% of the glyceride by mass.
5. The whitening anti-aging skin care composition of claim 4, wherein: the glyceride comprises 30-35% of the glycerophospholipid and 65-70% of the caprylic/capric triglyceride in percentage by mass.
6. The whitening anti-aging skin care composition of claim 1, wherein: the dispersion matrix is water.
7. The whitening anti-aging skin care composition of claim 1, wherein: the paper mulberry sample used for preparing the paper mulberry extract is paper mulberry root bark.
8. The whitening anti-aging skin care composition of claim 7, wherein: during the preparation process of the broussonetia papyrifera extract, cellulase auxiliary treatment is introduced into the S2.
9. The whitening anti-aging skin care composition of claim 8, wherein the S2 comprises:
s2.1, adding cellulase into the mixed solution obtained in the step S1, wherein the final content of the cellulase in the mixed solution is 5 x 104～9×104U/kg；
S2.2, heating the mixed solution in a water bath to 40-50 ℃, and preserving heat for 1.8-3 hours;
and S2.3, inactivating the enzyme in a boiling water bath.
10. The whitening anti-aging skin care composition of claim 9, wherein: the extracting solution is prepared by mixing 50% ethanol water solution and formamide according to the volume ratio of 9.25: 1.
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