JPH02169507A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a cosmetic having extremely excellent stability at high and low temperature and extremely improved functional characteristics and appearance, containing a combination of monoacyl type phospholipid and saponin. CONSTITUTION:A cosmetic containing an oily substance and water is blended with (A) 0.01-10wt.%, preferably 0.1-5wt.% compound such as 1-palmitoyl-3- glycerinphosphorylcholine shown by formula I or formula II [R is C(C=O)-C17H35 or C(=O)-C15H31; X is group shown by formula III-formula V] and (B) 0.01-10wt.%, preferably 0.1-5wt.% at least one selected from saponin and an extract of saponin-containing plant (e.g. extract of Licorice root, extract of pericarp of Sapindus mukurosii or extract of seed of tea).

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to cosmetics, and particularly to cosmetics containing a combination of monoacyl phospholipids and saponins.

[Prior art and problems to be solved by the invention] In recent years, many studies have been conducted on emulsification and solubilization.

As a result, advances in emulsifiers and solubilizers and emulsification and solubilization techniques have resulted in highly stable emulsions and solubilizates being utilized in many fields.

Most of the emulsifiers and solubilizers are nonionic surfactants having a polyoxyethylene chain, anionic surfactants typified by fatty acid soaps, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants. However, emulsified cosmetics and solubilized (transparent) cosmetics using these synthetic surfactants generally have the disadvantage that they tend to irritate the skin and hair.

Against this background, phospholipids, particularly monoacyl phospholipids, have attracted attention. Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-112
No. 007 discloses a transparent cosmetic using monoacyl phospholipids as a solubilizing agent, disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 171407/1983.
The publication @ discloses an emulsified cosmetic using a monoacyl phospholipid as an emulsifier.

However, conventional transparent cosmetics and emulsified cosmetics prepared using monoacyl phospholipids have problems with storage stability, especially storage stability under low and high temperature environments. Further, there was a need for further improvement in terms of organoleptic properties (particularly lasting smoothness) and appearance (texture, transparency).

That is, when transparent cosmetics are stored under low temperature conditions (below 5° C.) or high temperature conditions (above 40'C), there is a problem in that monoacyl phospholipids precipitate or they become cloudy or sour. On the other hand, when emulsified cosmetics are stored under low or high temperature conditions, they have the disadvantage that their viscosity and appearance, such as texture, change.

On the other hand, saponin is a compound in which a nonpolar group (sapogni) such as a sterol or triterpene is bound to 1 (pentose, hexose, uronic acid, etc.). Its presence is widespread throughout the plant kingdom, with the exception of certain starfish. Many types of saponins are often present in a single plant. Saponin has been studied as a medicinal ingredient in recent years, but there are few examples of its use in cosmetics. It has been suggested that saponin (glycyrrhizin), a licorice ingredient, may be used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, antigen-antibody suppressing, and steroid hormone effects (Fragrance Journal).

Vol 3, No. 4. 39-41.1975
), it is known that in skin cosmetics containing oil from evening primrose seeds, an extract of the root of the evening primrose or the rhizome of the chinensis is blended as a stabilizer to prevent rancidity or oxidation of the oil. contains saponin (JP-A-61-178908). A hair wash containing daffodil extract from the peel of Sapindica as a main ingredient is known, and is said to exhibit foaming power and detergency that can be used practically for hair washing (Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 125510/1983). Mustard oil such as octopus oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan sesquioleate, or polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate is used (Japanese Patent Publication No. 40923/1983).

[Means for Solving the Problem] As a result of intensive research in order to solve the drawbacks of cosmetics using the monoacyl type phospholipid, the present inventors found that the monoacyl type phospholipid represented by the general formula (1) or (2) below It has been found that when phospholipids and saponins are used in combination, no precipitation or turbidity occurs during storage, and the organoleptic properties and appearance are improved.

The effect of such a combination is as expected from the conventional technology.
Not done.

That is, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition containing an oily substance and water, which has the following general formula (1) % formula % or the following general formula (2) (in the above formula, R is represented by -C-C17H35°). This cosmetic is characterized by containing at least one compound selected from saponin or a plant extract containing saponin.

Compounds represented by the above general formulas (1) and (2) in the present invention, i.e., mono-acyl-3-glycerylphosphorylcholine, mono-acyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanolamine, mono-acyl-3
- Glycerylphosphorylinositol itself is known. Examples of the compound represented by the general formula (1) include 1-valmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylcholine, 1-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylcholine, 1-valmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanolamine, and 1-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanol. Examples include amine, 1-valmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylinositol, and 1-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylinositol. General formula (2)
As a compound represented by 2-valmitoyl-3-
Glycerylphosphorylcholine, 2-stearoyl-3-
Glycerylphosphorylcholine, 2-valmitoyl-3-
Glycerylphosphorylethanolamine, 2-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanolamine, 2
-Valmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylinositol and 2-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylinositol.

The compounds represented by the above general formulas (1) and (2) are produced, for example, by treating phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine or phosphatidylinositol obtained from egg yolk with snake venom phospholipase or pancreatin, an enzyme extracted from porcine pancreas, into a high-speed liquid. Obtained by fractionation by chromatography. Alternatively, it can be obtained by chemical synthesis.

The compounds represented by the above general formulas (1) and (2) are safe for the human body, and their skin irritation has been reported by Drai.
As a result of testing according to the ZC method, the animal skin irritation score and human skin irritation score were both 0 (zero), confirming that it is non-irritating. (Dralz
e, J, H,,As5ociation of F
oodand drug official of
The United 5tates.

Appraisal of the 5afet
y of Chea+1cals 1nFood
s, Drugs and Cosmetfcs,
4B (1959).

Texas, 5tate Department
of Health, Au5tin,) The compounds represented by the above general formulas (1) and (2) in the present invention are used singly or in combination as emulsifiers and solubilizers.

Saponins and saponin-containing plant extracts used in the present invention are known.

As described above, saponin in the present invention is defined as a compound in which a nonpolar group such as a sterol or triterpene (sapogenin) is bound to a sugar (pentose, hexose, uronic acid, etc.).

Its existence is generally widespread, with the exception of certain types of starfish (it is found in the plant kingdom, and many types of saponins exist in one type of plant. In the present invention, the source and method of obtaining it are not particularly limited. For example, Pharmacia Vol.
15. No. 10897-899 (1979) Mugimon Fuyu, Tenmon Fuyu, Sho Riku, Senega, Toshi, Ginseng, soybean described in JP-A-56-160981,
Amachazul Fragrance Journal Vol. 1.3, which is described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 56-127316. Na
439-41 (1975), and sunflower (Ilctianthus annuus L,) described in JP-A-61-178908.
Seeds of Buplcurui + fal
catun L,) root, Chu (Sanguisorb)
Rhizome of a officinalis L.), JP-A-1978
The pericarp of Sapindium japonica described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 2-125510, the roots of Japanese cypress described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 42-10923, the iris, wolfberry, cypress, and lateral core described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 5g-40923. , Mizuhiru, JP-A-57
Examples of sources containing saponin include Senega, Hamamelis, Strawberry and Althea, which are described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 106807. In the present invention, a plant extract obtained by extracting saponin from the various plants described above by a known method, or a saponin obtained by purifying the same can be used.

In particular, saponin (α- or β-glycyrrhizin or its derivatives) obtained from Kegusa, Sapindica pericarp extract,
Preferred examples include soybean saponin, Chu rhizome extract, tea seed extract, and camellia seed extract.

The amount of the compound represented by the above formulas (1) and (2) and the amount of the saponin or plant extract containing saponin (as saponin content) are approximately based on the total amount of the cosmetic. It is 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight.

If the amount of either the compound of formula (1) or (2) or saponin is less than the above amount, the storage stability of the cosmetic will be poor. In addition, if these amounts exceed the above-mentioned amount, they tend to separate without being completely dissolved in the system, and the cosmetic composition tends to have a poor feel when used.

The oil-based substances used in the present invention refer to a wide range of oil-based substances, such as oil-soluble fragrances, oil-soluble vitamins, oil-soluble hormones, oil-soluble pigments, oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, and higher aliphatic hydrocarbons. Examples include oils, vegetable oils, animal oils, waxes, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, synthetic ester oils, and the like.

More specifically, examples of oil-soluble fragrances include oil-soluble fragrances extracted from natural animals and plants and synthetic oil-soluble fragrances. Examples of oil-soluble vitamins include vitamin A1 vitamin D1 vitamin E1 vitamin F1 vitamin group vitamins, pyridoxine caprilate, pyridoxine cybalmitate, d1-α-tocopherol acetate, dΩ-α-tocopherol nicotinate, ascorbyl cybalmitate, Examples include vitamin derivatives such as ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl monostearate. Examples of oil-soluble hormones include estradiol, ethinylestradiol, estrone, and diethylstilbestrol; examples of oil-soluble pigments include Sudan ■, tetrabrome fluorescein, dibrome fluorescein, fluorescein, and quinizarin green S.
Examples of oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbers such as S include oxybenzone, methyl 2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, and the like.

Examples of higher aliphatic hydrocarbons include liquid paraffin, squalane, microcrystalline wax, petrolatum, and ceresin; examples of vegetable oils include olive oil, castor oil, cacao butter, and palm oil; and examples of animal oils include cod liver oil. Waxes such as , beef tallow and butter fat include beeswax and carnauba wax, and higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid,
Examples of higher alcohols include stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, lanolin fatty acids, etc.FfI include lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
Examples of synthetic ester oils such as oleyl alcohol include straight chain esters and branched chain esters such as butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, octyl dodecyl myristate, diisopropyl adibate, and diisopropyl sebacate.

These oily substances may be used singly or in combination.

In the case of transparent cosmetics such as lotions and hair tonics, the blending amount of these oily substances is approximately 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the prescription ingredients.
01 to 0.3% by weight. If it is less than about o or oooi weight %, the characteristic effects inherent to the oily substance will be reduced, and if it is more than about 1 weight %, it tends to be difficult to solubilize it.

In the case of emulsified cosmetics such as creams and milky lotions, the amount of oily substances blended is approximately 5 to 80% by weight, preferably 10 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the prescription ingredients in the emulsified composition.
The amount is 60ffl%. If it is less than about 5% by weight, the storage stability will be somewhat poor and the finish will be too light for an emulsified cosmetic, and if it is more than about 80% by weight, the oil will become extremely sticky, which is undesirable.

The cosmetics of the present invention may contain moisturizing agents, cosmetic medicinal ingredients, fragrances, preservatives, coloring agents, ultraviolet absorbers, astringents, synthetic surfactants, pigments (kaolin, mica, sericite, talc, etc.) as necessary. , yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, etc.), water-soluble natural polymers (caseinate soda, pectin, xanthan gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan, etc.) can be added.

The cosmetics of the present invention include, for example, a skin conditioning lotion, a wiping lotion, a softening lotion, an acne treatment lotion, an aftershave lotion, a two-layer conditioning lotion, a cleansing lotion, a hair tonic, a pine surge cream, a cleansing cream,
Examples include, but are not limited to, skin cream, skin milk, foundation cream, makeup base, hair cream, and the like.

[Example] Examples will be described below.

"Parts" shown in Examples mean parts by weight.

The properties of the cosmetics investigated in the examples were storage stability, sensory properties, pit, permeability, and appearance.

The test method is as follows.

(1) Storage stability of sample composition at 45°C, 40°C, 3
The samples were left in a constant temperature bath at 0°C, 5°C, or 0°C for 3, 4, or 6 months, and their viscosity and the presence of precipitates were examined.

(2) Sensory characteristics were comprehensively evaluated by examining the feel during application (lightness, moistness, stickiness, smoothness) and the finish after application by three specialized inspectors.

(3) pl! The measurements were taken immediately after the cosmetics were prepared. A pH meter with a glass electrode was sufficiently adjusted with a pH standard solution, and then pl+ was measured.

(4) Transmittance represents the light transmittance of light with a wavelength of 450 nm. When the value is 80% or more, it is transparent even to the naked eye.

(5) Regarding the appearance, the state of coloring etc. was determined with the naked eye.

Examples 1 to 5, Comparative Examples 1 to 2 Lotions were prepared using the formulations (parts by weight) listed in Table 1. 1-valmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylcholine was used as the phospholipid. The licorice saponin used was commercially available and mainly contains α-glycyrrhizin.

Components 1 to 3 in the table were mixed and dissolved (solution 1), and components 4 to 7 in the table were separately mixed and dissolved (solution 2). Solution 2 was mixed with Solution 1 to prepare a lotion. The properties of the obtained lotion are also shown in Table 1.

As can be seen from the table, the lotions of Examples containing both phospholipids and saponins according to the present invention have excellent storage stability. On the other hand, the lotions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 that lack either phospholipid or saponin have poor storage stability, resulting in precipitation, turbidity, and soapstock. The lotion of the present invention is also superior to the comparative example in sensory properties and transparency.

Examples 6 to 1O1 Comparative Examples 3 to 4 Skin milks were prepared according to the formulations (parts by weight) shown in Table 2.

2-valmitoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylethanolamine was used as the phospholipid. As a saponin-containing extract, Sapindus mukuros
il) A water-containing ethanol extract of the pericarp was purified and dried to form a powder. It contains 50-60% saponin.

Oily components 1 to 5 listed in the table were uniformly mixed and dissolved at about 80°C (solution 1). Water-soluble components 6 to 10 and 12 listed in the table were uniformly dissolved at about 80°C (solution 2). Next, Solution 1 was added to Solution 2 while stirring with a homomixer, emulsified, and then cooled. Incidentally, component 11 was added at 70°C during the cooling process, and after the temperature was lowered to 30°C, stirring was stopped.

The properties of the obtained skin milk are shown in Table 2.

As can be seen from the table, the skin milk of the Examples containing both phospholipids and saponins according to the present invention has good storage stability. However, the skin milks of Comparative Examples 3 and 4, which lack either phospholipid or saponin, significantly thicken or thin during storage and are unstable. The skin milk of the present invention is significantly superior to the comparative example in terms of organoleptic properties and also has a good appearance.

Example 11 and Comparative Example 5 (Skin Cream) Skin creams were prepared using the following formulations (parts by weight). 1-stearoyl-3-glycerylphosphorylinositol was used as the phospholipid, and soybean saponin (80% saponin content) was used as the saponin.

Olive Oil Liquid Paraffin Beeswax Cetyl Alcohol Glyceryl Monostear White Petrolatum Example 5.0 15, (1 3,0 7,0 Rate 3.0 3.0 1-stearoyl-3= Glycerylphosphorylinositol Maltitol Liquid Rose Oxybenzoic Acid Mesoybean Saponin fragrance purified water chill 0.5 10.0 0.2 0.5 0.1 52.7 Comparative example 5.0 15.0 3.0 7.0 3.0 3.0 0.5 10.0 0.2 0.1 53.2 Of the above components, oily components 1 to 6 were uniformly mixed and dissolved at about 80°C (solution 1).
10 and 12 were uniformly mixed and dissolved at about 80°C (solution 2). Next, Solution 1 was added to Solution 2 while stirring with a homomixer, emulsified, and then cooled. Incidentally, component 11 was added at 70°C during the cooling process, and after the temperature was lowered to 30°C, stirring was stopped.

The skin cream of Example 11 thus obtained was O/
It was a W-type emulsion and had extremely good stability when stored in a constant temperature bath at 45°C for 4 months. Also, 0
It was extremely stable after storage for 6 months at 5°C and 5°C. No deterioration or odor occurred. In addition, the appearance of the skin is good,
The feel, moisturizing properties, and usability (removal, spreadability, etc.) were good.

The skin cream of Comparative Example 5, which was prepared in the same manner as Example 11 except that soybean saponin was not used and 53.2 parts of water was used, was a 0/w type emulsion and was kept in a constant temperature bath at 45°C. When stored for 4 months, creaming occurred and storage stability was poor.

Furthermore, when stored at 0° C. for 6 months, the texture of the skin deteriorated and smoothness could not be obtained after application.

A skin cream prepared using licorice extract (β-glycyrrhizin), Sapindica pericarp extract, tea seed extract, camellia seed extract or Chu rhizome extract in place of the soybean saponin in Example 11, It exhibited almost the same behavior as the skin cream of Example 11.

[Effects of the Invention] The cosmetic composition of the present invention has extremely excellent storage stability at high and low temperatures, and also has extremely good sensory characteristics and appearance.

Claims (1)

[Claims] In cosmetics containing oily substances and water, the following general formula (1) ▲There are mathematical formulas, chemical formulas, tables, etc.▼・・・・・・・・・
(1) Or the following general formula (2) ▲There are mathematical formulas, chemical formulas, tables, etc.▼・・・・・・・・・
(2) (In the above formula, R is ▲ has a mathematical formula, chemical formula, table, etc. ▼, or ▲ has a mathematical formula, chemical formula, table, etc. ▼ X is ▲ has a mathematical formula, chemical formula, table, etc. ▼, ▲ mathematical formula, Contains at least one compound represented by chemical formula, table, etc. ▼ or ▲ mathematical formula, chemical formula, table, etc. ▼) and at least one selected from saponin or a plant extract containing saponin. Cosmetics featuring: