JP2023507488A - レチノールベースの組成物 - Google Patents
レチノールベースの組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP2023507488A JP2023507488A JP2022537879A JP2022537879A JP2023507488A JP 2023507488 A JP2023507488 A JP 2023507488A JP 2022537879 A JP2022537879 A JP 2022537879A JP 2022537879 A JP2022537879 A JP 2022537879A JP 2023507488 A JP2023507488 A JP 2023507488A
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- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 13-cis retinol Natural products OCC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 67
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- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- -1 amine salt Chemical class 0.000 claims description 35
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Abstract
Description
レチノール;
ペンタエリスリチルテトラヒドロキシケイ皮酸ジ-t-ブチル;及び
エチレンジアミンジコハク酸塩
を少なくとも含む、上記の組成物に関する。
前述されている通り、本発明に従う組成物は、ビタミンAとしても知られているレチノールを含む。
本発明に従う組成物はまた、ペンタエリスリチルテトラヒドロキシケイ皮酸ジ-t-ブチルを少なくとも含む。
本発明に従う組成物はまた、少なくとも1つのエチレンジアミンジコハク酸塩を含む。
0.08%~1.0重量%のレチノール、
0.1%~0.3重量%のペンタエリスリチルテトラヒドロキシケイ皮酸ジ-t-ブチル、
0.05%~1.5重量%のエチレンジアミンジコハク酸塩、
を少なくとも含む。
0.08%~0.5重量%のレチノール、
0.1%~1.0重量%のペンタエリスリチルテトラヒドロキシケイ皮酸ジ-t-ブチル、
0.1%~1.5重量%のエチレンジアミンジコハク酸塩、
を少なくとも含む。
本発明に従う組成物は一般的に、少なくとも1つの水性相及び/又は少なくとも1つの油性相を含み、有効量のレチノール、ペンタエリスリチルテトラヒドロキシケイ皮酸ジ-t-ブチル及びエチレンジアミンジコハク酸塩を組み込み、そして、本発明に従う組成物、とりわけ化粧品組成物、を形成する為の化粧品的に許容される媒体を構成する。
本発明に従って使用される組成物が油相を含む場合、該油相は好ましくは、少なくとも1つの油、とりわけ化粧品油、を含む。該油相はまた、他の脂肪物質が含みうる。
該揮発性油は、炭化水素系油又はシリコーン油でありうる。
該不揮発性油は、とりわけ、不揮発性炭化水素系のフルオロ油及び/又はシリコーン油から選択されうる。
- 動物由来の炭化水素系油、
- 植物由来の炭化水素系油、10~40個の炭素原子を含む合成エーテル、例えばジカプリリルエーテル、
- 合成エーテル、例えば、式R1COOR2(ここで、R1は、1~40個の炭素原子を含む直鎖状又は分枝状の脂肪酸残基を表し、及びR2は、1~40個の炭素原子を含む炭化水素系の鎖を表し、該鎖はとりわけ分枝状であり、但し、R1+R2が10以上である)の油。該エステルは特には、アルコール及び脂肪酸エステル、例えば、オクタン酸セトステアリル、イソプロピルアルコールエステル、例えばミリスチン酸イソプロピル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、パルミチン酸エチル、パルミチン酸2-エチルヘキシル、ステアリン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸オクチル、ヒドロキシル化されたエステル、例えば乳酸イソステアリル、ヒドロキシステアリン酸オクチル、リシノール酸アルコール又はポリアルコール、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、ネオペンタン酸エステル、例えば、ネオペンタン酸イソデシル、ネオペンタン酸イソトリデシル、及びイソノナン酸エステル、例えば、イソノナノ酸イソノニル及びイソノナノ酸イソトリデシル、から選択されうる、
- ポリオールエステル及びペンタエリスリトールエステル、例えば、ジペンタエリスリトールテトラヒドロキシステアレート/テトライソステアレート、
- 室温で液体であり、12~26個の炭素原子を含む分岐及び/又は不飽和炭素系の鎖を有する脂肪アルコール、例えば、2-オクチルドデカノール、イソステアリルアルコール及びオレイルアルコール、
- C12~C22の高級脂肪酸、例えば、オレイン酸、リノール酸、リノレン酸及びそれらの混合物、
- カルボナート、例えば炭酸ジカプリリル、
- 非フェニルシリコーン油、例えばカプリリルメチコン、及び
- フェニルシリコーン油、例えば、フェニルトリメチコン、フェニルジメチコン、フェニルトリメチルシロキシジフェニルシロキサン、ジフェニルジメチコン、ジフェニルメチルジフェニルトリシロキサン及び2-フェニルエチルトリメチルシロキシシリケート、ジメチコン、又は100cSt以下の粘度を有するフェニルトリメチコン、トリメチルペンタフェニルトリシロキサン、及びそれらの混合物;並びにまた、
これらの様々な油の混合物。
- δDは、分子衝撃中に誘発される双極子の形成に由来するロンドン分散力(London dispersion forces)を特徴付ける;
- δpは、永久双極子間のデバイ相互作用力(Debye interaction forces)と、誘発された双極子と永久双極子と間のケーソム相互作用力(Keesom interaction forces)を特徴付ける;
- δhは特定の相互作用力(例えば、水素結合、酸/塩基、ドナー/アクセプター)を特徴付ける;及び、
- δaは式 δa=(δp2+δh2)1/2によって決定される。
- 流動パラフィン又はその誘導体、
- 液体ワセリン(liquid petroleum jelly)、
- ナフタレン油、
- ポリブチレン、とりわけ、Amoco社によって販売又は製造されている、Indopol H-100(モル質量、すなわち、MW=965g/モル)、Indopol H-300(MW=1,340g/モル)、及びIndopol H-1500(MW=2,160g/モル)
- ポリイソブテン及び水素化されたポリイソブテン、とりわけ、日油(Nippon Oil Fats)社によって販売されるParleam(登録商標)、Amoco社によって販売又は製造されるPanalane H-300 E(MW=1,340g/モル)、Synteal社によって販売又は製造されるViseal 20000(MW=6,000g/モル)、及びWitco社によって販売又は製造されるRewopal PIB 1000(MW=1,000g/モル)、
- デセン/ブテンコポリマー及びポリブテン/ポリイソブテンコポリマー、とりわけIndopol L-14、
- ポリデセン及び水素化されたポリデセン、とりわけ、Mobil Chemicals社によって販売又は製造される、Puresyn 10(MW=723g/モル)及びPuresyn 150(MW=9,200g/モル);並びに
それらの組み合わせ。
- 合計で18~40個の炭素原子を含むモノエステル、特には、式R1COOR2のモノエステル、ここで、R1は4~40個の炭素原子を含む直鎖状又は分岐状の脂肪酸残基を表し、及びR2は、4~40個の炭素原子を含む炭化水素系鎖を表し、該鎖はとりわけ分岐状であり、但し、R1+R2が18以上であり、例えばパーセリン油(オクタン酸セトステアリル)、イソノナン酸イソノニル、安息香酸C12~C15アルキル、パルミチン酸2-エチルヘキシル、ネオペンタン酸オクチルドデシル、ステアリン酸2-オクチルドデシル、エルカ酸2-オクチルドデシル、イソステアリン酸イソステアリル、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル、安息香酸2-オクチルドデシル、オクタノン酸アルコール若しくはポリアルコール、デカノエート若しくはリシノレート、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸ブチル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、パルミチン酸2-エチルヘキシル、ラウリン酸2-ヘキシルデシル、パルミチン酸2-オクチルデシル、ミリスチン酸2-オクチルドデシル、又はコハク酸2-ジエチルヘキシル。好ましくは、該不揮発性エステル油は、式R1COOR2のエステルであり、ここで、R1は、4~40個の炭素原子を含む直鎖状又は分岐状の脂肪酸残基を表し、及びR2は、4~40個の炭素原子を含む炭化水素系の鎖を表し、該鎖はとりわけ分岐状であり、但し、R1及びR2は、R1+R2が18以上である。好ましくは、該エステルは、合計で18~40個の炭素原子を含む。言及されうる好ましいモノエステルは、イソノナン酸イソノニル、エルカ酸オレイル及び/又はネオペンタン酸2-オクチルドデシルを包含する。好ましくは、該エステルは、合計で18~40個の炭素原子を含む。言及されうる好ましいモノエステルは、イソノナン酸イソノニル、エルカ酸オレイル及び/又はネオペンタン酸2-オクチルドデシルを包含しうる;
- ジエステル、例えば合計で18~60個の炭素原子、特には合計で18~50個の炭素原子を含むジエステル。とりわけ、ジカルボン酸とモノアルコールとのジエステル、好ましくは、例えばリンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、又はモノカルボン酸のグリコールジエステル、例えばジヘプタン酸ネオペンチルグリコール又はジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-2、とりわけ、例えばAlzo社よりDermol DGDIS(登録商標)の商品名の下で販売されている化合物、を用いることが可能である。;
- トリエステル、特には合計で35~70個の炭素原子を含むトリエステル、特には、例えばトリカルボン酸のトリエステル、例えばクエン酸トリイソステアリル、又はトリメリット酸トリデシル、又はモノカルボン酸のグリコールトリエステル、例えばトリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-2;
- テトラエステル、とりわけ、35~70個の範囲の総炭素数を有するテトラエステル、例えば、モノカルボン酸のペンタエリスリトール又はポリグリセロールテトラエステル、例えばテトラペラルゴン酸ペンタエリスリチル、テトライソステアリン酸ペンタエリスリチル、テトライソノナン酸ペンタエリスリチル、トリス(2-デシル)テトラデカン酸グリセリル、テトライソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-2、又はテトラキス(2-デシル)テトラデカン酸ペンタエリスリチル;
- 不飽和脂肪酸ダイマー及び/又はトリマーとジオールとの縮合によって得られるポリエステル、例えば仏国特許出願公開第FR0853634号明細書に記載されているポリエステル、特には、例えば、ジリノール酸と1,4-ブタンジオールとの縮合によって得られるポリエステル。この点に関して、BiosynthisによってViscoplast 14436H(INCI名:ジリノール酸/ブタンジオールコポリマー)の名称下で販売されているポリマー、又はポリオールと二酸ダイマーとのコポリマー、及びそのエステル、例えばHailuscent ISDA、がとりわけ言及されうる;
- ジオールダイマーと、モノカルボン酸又はジカルボン酸との、エステル及びポリエステル、例えばジオールダイマーと脂肪酸とのエステル、及びジオールダイマーとジカルボン酸ダイマーとのエステル、とりわけC8~C34、とりわけC12~C22、特にはC16~C20、より特にはC18、の不飽和脂肪酸の二量化から特に得られる、ジカルボン酸ダイマーから得られうるもの、例えばジリノール二酸とジリノールジオールダイマーとのエステル、例えば日本精化株式会社よりLusplan DD-DA5(登録商標)及びDD-DA7(登録商標)の商品名で販売されているもの;
- ビニルピロリドン/1-ヘキサデセンコポリマー、例えば、ISP社からAntaron V-216(Ganex V216としてまた知られている)の名称下で販売されている製品(MW=7300g/モル);
- 炭化水素系の植物油、例えば、脂肪酸トリグリセリド(それは、室温で液体である)、とりわけ、7~40個の炭素原子を含む脂肪酸、例えば、ヘプタン酸若しくはオクタン酸トリグリセリド又はジョジョバ油;飽和トリグリセリド、例えばカプリル酸/カプリン酸トリグリセリド、グリセリルトリヘプタノエート、グリセリルトリオクタノエート、及びC18~36の酸性トリグリセリド、例えばStearinerie Duboisによる、Dub TGI 24の参照番号下で販売されているもの、及び不飽和のトリグリセリド、例えばキャスターオイル、オリーブオイル、キシメニアオイル、及びプラカキシオイル;並びに、
- それらの混合物。
本発明に従う組成物は、1以上のUV遮断剤を含みうる。
好ましい実施態様に従うと、本発明に従う組成物はまた、少なくとも1つの界面活性剤を含みうる。
好ましくは、本発明に従う組成物は、少なくとも1つの非イオン性界面活性剤を含む。
該アニオン性界面活性剤は、アルキルエーテル硫酸塩、カルボン酸塩、アミノ酸誘導体、スルホン酸塩、イセチオン酸塩、タウリン酸塩、スルホコハク酸塩、アルキルスルホ酢酸塩、リン酸塩及びアルキルリン酸塩、ポリペプチド、C10~C30、特にはC16~C25、の脂肪酸の金属塩、特には金属ステアリン酸塩及びベヘン酸塩、並びにその混合物から選択されうる。
該カチオン性界面活性剤は、アルキルイミドリジニウム、例えばイソステアリルエチルイミドニウムエトスルフェート、アンモニウム塩、例えば(C12~30-アルキル)-トリ(C1~4-アルキル)アンモニウムハライド、例えばN,N,N-トリメチル-1-ドコサナミニウムクロリド(又はベヘントリモニウムクロリド)、から選択されうる。
本発明に従う組成物はまた、1以上の両性界面活性剤、例えばN-アシルアミノ酸、例えばN-アルキルアミノ酢酸塩及びココアンホジ酢酸二ナトリウム、並びにアミンオキシド、例えばステアリンオキシド、又は代替的には、シリコーン界面活性剤、例えばジメチコンコポリオールホスフェート、例えばPhoenix Chemical社よりPecosil PS 100(登録商標)の名称下で販売されている製品、を含みうる。
該組成物はまた、少なくとも1つのシリコーン界面活性剤を含みうる。例として、単独又は混合物として使用される、25℃で8以上のHLBを有する非イオン性界面活性剤として、ジメチコンコポリオール又はジメチコンコポリオールベンゾエートが言及され得、及び、単独又は混合物として使用される、25℃で8未満のHLBを有する非イオン性界面活性剤として、シクロメチコン/ジメチコンコポリオールの混合物が言及されうる。
得ることを所望する組成物の粘度に応じて、1以上の増粘剤及び/又はゲル化剤(それは、とりわけ、親水性であり、すなわち水溶性又は水分散性である)、が、組成物内に組み込まれうる。
本発明に従う組成物はまた、少なくとも1つの 充填剤を含みうる。
本発明に従う組成物は、追加の活性剤、特には、本発明に従って使用されるレチノール以外の抗老化活性剤、を含みうる。
前に述べた通り、本発明に従う組成物は、化粧用及び/又は皮膚科学的であり得、好ましくは化粧用である。
本発明に従う組成物は、ケラチン物質、特には身体の又は顔のケラチン物質、好ましくは顔のケラチン物質、をケア及び/又はメークアップする為の化粧品組成物の形態でありうる。
該組成物の安定性試験が、標準ISO/TR 18811:2018によって課されたガイドラインに従って実施された。それらは、30mLの不透明なラッカー仕上げのガラス瓶中で調整された製剤において実行される。
保存後の分解率は、保存後の組成物中の残留レチノールをアッセイすることにより、4℃で及び45℃で1か月間(T=1ヶ月)で測定される。分解率はHPLCによって測定され、そして、理論上の初期パーセンテージ又はHPLCにより測定された初期パーセンテージの関数として計算される。理論割合は、理論上の初期レチノール含有量に対応する。
外観、色、及びにおいが、20℃での瓶についてはT=24時間で、20℃で、4℃で、及び45℃で保管された瓶についてはT=1か月で、配合物について、3人のパネルによって判断される。該組成物が「原料」と言われるにおいがある場合、それは、酸化油のにおい(酸敗臭)とは異なり、香料によって偽装されることが可能である。
30mLの不透明なガラス瓶が、個々の食器棚に室温(20℃)で保管される。
4℃で30mLの不透明ガラスビン内の製剤が、Manumesure社によって提供されるLiebbern Gastro Line冷蔵庫中で4℃で保管される。
オーブン保管は、Manumesure社によって提供されるJouvanオーブンを使用して、45℃で1か月間行われる。30-mLの不透明な瓶がオーブンに入れられ、必要な時間放置される。
組成物の比色特性が、下記のプロトコルに従って評価された。
(ΔE*)2=(ΔL*)2+(Δa*)2+(Δb*)2
ΔL*+t=0でのL*配合物-t=1ヶ月でのL*配合物
Δa*+t=0でのa*配合物-t=1ヶ月でのa*配合物
Δb*+t=0でのb*配合物-t=1ヶ月でのb*配合物
ΔE*の値が高いほど、1か月後の色の変化がより大きくなる。
本発明に従う組成物I1及び本発明外の組成物CC1~CC5は、下記の表に詳細が示されている重量比を使用して作成される。該値は、該組成物の総重量に対して、重量パーセントとして表される。
相Aの成分は、遊星式攪拌機(planetary stirrer)と乳化剤を備えられたMinilabで70℃~75℃の温度に加熱される。
本発明に従う組成物I1及び本発明外の組成物CC1~CC5の劣化率測定の結果が下記の表2に示されている。
本発明に従う組成物I1及び本発明外の組成物CC1~CC5の結果が、下記の表3に示されている。
本発明に従う組成物I2及び本発明外の組成物CC6は、実施例1に示されている通り、下記の表に詳述されている重量比を使用して調製される。該値は、該組成物の総重量に対する重量パーセントとして表されている。
本発明に従う組成物I2及び本発明外の組成物CC6の劣化率測定の結果は、本発明に従う組成物が本発明外の組成物について観察されたものよりも有意に低いレチノール損失を示し、従ってより安定であることを示す。
本発明に従う組成物I3及びI4は、下記の表に詳述されている通りの重量比を使用して調製される。該値は、該組成物の総重量に対する重量パーセントとして表される。
該組成物は、上記の実施例1に詳述されている通りに調製される。
本発明に従う組成物I3及びI4の劣化率測定の結果が、下記の表6に示されている。
本発明に従う組成物I5~I7は、下記の表に詳述されている通り、重量比を使用して調製される。値は、該組成物の総重量に対して重量パーセントとして表される。
Claims (12)
- 組成物、特にはケラチン物質をメークアップする為の及び/又はケアする為の組成物、とりわけ化粧品組成物、であって、
レチノール;
ペンタエリスリチルテトラヒドロキシケイ皮酸ジ-t-ブチル;及び
エチレンジアミンジコハク酸塩
を少なくとも含む、前記組成物。 - 前記組成物の総重量に対して、0.02重量%~5.0重量%、好ましくは0.05重量%~3.0重量%、とりわけ0.08重量%~1.0重量%、より好ましくは0.1重量%~0.5重量%、のレチノールを含む、請求項1に記載の組成物。
- 前記組成物の総重量に対して、0.01重量%~2.5重量%、好ましくは0.05重量%~1.5重量%、特には0.1重量%~0.5重量%、より好ましくは0.1重量%~0.3重量%、のペンタエリスリチルテトラヒドロキシケイ皮酸ジ-t-ブチルを含む、請求項1又は2に記載の組成物。
- 前記組成物の総重量に対して、0.01重量%~2.5重量%、好ましくは0.05重量%~1.5重量%、より好ましくは0.07重量%~0.3重量%、又はさらには0.1重量%~1.1重量%、のエチレンジアミンジコハク酸塩を含む、請求項1~3のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- 前記エチレンジアミンジコハク酸塩が、カリウム塩、ナトリウム塩、及びアンモニウム塩、並びにエチレンジアミン二コハク酸のアミン塩であり、好ましくはエチレンジアミン二コハク酸三ナトリウムである、請求項1~4のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- ペンタエリスリチルテトラヒドロキシケイ皮酸ジ-t-ブチル/エチレンジアミンジコハク酸塩の質量比が、0.1~5、特には0.3~2.5、例えば1.5~5、好ましくは2.5~4.5、である、請求項1~5のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- ブチルヒドロキシトルエン(BHT)及び/又はエチレンジアミン四酢酸(EDTA)若しくはそれらの塩を0.2重量%未満、特には0.1重量%未満、好ましくは0.05重量%未満、より好ましくは0.01重量%未満、しか含まないこと、又はブチルヒドロキシトルエン(BHT)及び/又はエチレンジアミン四酢酸(EDTA)若しくはそれらの塩を全く含まないことを特徴とする、請求項1~6のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- 少なくとも1つのUV遮断剤をまた含むことを特徴とする、請求項1~7のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- 少なくとも1つの不揮発性炭化水素系油をまた含むことを特徴とする、請求項1~8のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- 少なくともグリセロールをまた含むことを特徴とする、請求項1~9のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- ケラチン物質をケアする為の化粧品組成物であることを特徴とする、請求項1~10のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- ケラチン物質、好ましくは皮膚及び/又は唇、をメークアップする為の及び/又はケアする為の、好ましくはケアする為の、化粧方法であって、請求項1~11のいずれか1項に記載の組成物を前記ケラチン物質に施与する少なくとも1つの工程を含む、前記方法。
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR1915325A FR3104976B1 (fr) | 2019-12-20 | 2019-12-20 | Composition à base de rétinol |
FR1915325 | 2019-12-20 | ||
PCT/EP2020/087259 WO2021123337A1 (en) | 2019-12-20 | 2020-12-18 | Retinol-based composition |
Publications (1)
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JP2023507488A true JP2023507488A (ja) | 2023-02-22 |
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JP2022537879A Pending JP2023507488A (ja) | 2019-12-20 | 2020-12-18 | レチノールベースの組成物 |
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US (1) | US20230036624A1 (ja) |
EP (1) | EP4076680A1 (ja) |
JP (1) | JP2023507488A (ja) |
KR (1) | KR20220101680A (ja) |
CN (1) | CN114845782A (ja) |
BR (1) | BR112022009793A2 (ja) |
FR (1) | FR3104976B1 (ja) |
WO (1) | WO2021123337A1 (ja) |
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FR3142344A1 (fr) | 2022-11-30 | 2024-05-31 | L'oreal | Composition à base de rétinol |
WO2024135577A1 (en) | 2022-12-23 | 2024-06-27 | L'oreal | Stable dispersion composition comprising retinoid |
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- 2020-12-18 CN CN202080088927.9A patent/CN114845782A/zh active Pending
- 2020-12-18 JP JP2022537879A patent/JP2023507488A/ja active Pending
- 2020-12-18 US US17/787,508 patent/US20230036624A1/en active Pending
- 2020-12-18 EP EP20833872.3A patent/EP4076680A1/en active Pending
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WO2021123337A1 (en) | 2021-06-24 |
KR20220101680A (ko) | 2022-07-19 |
FR3104976B1 (fr) | 2021-12-24 |
BR112022009793A2 (pt) | 2022-08-09 |
CN114845782A (zh) | 2022-08-02 |
US20230036624A1 (en) | 2023-02-02 |
EP4076680A1 (en) | 2022-10-26 |
FR3104976A1 (fr) | 2021-06-25 |
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