JP2017081895A - 水中油型乳化組成物 - Google Patents
水中油型乳化組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP2017081895A JP2017081895A JP2016088250A JP2016088250A JP2017081895A JP 2017081895 A JP2017081895 A JP 2017081895A JP 2016088250 A JP2016088250 A JP 2016088250A JP 2016088250 A JP2016088250 A JP 2016088250A JP 2017081895 A JP2017081895 A JP 2017081895A
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Abstract
【解決手段】成分(A)〜(E)を含有し、成分(D)に対する成分(E)の含有質量比[(E)/(D)]が、0.15以上1.55以下である水中油型乳化組成物。
(A) 油溶性カミツレ抽出物
(B) HLBが8以下であるショ糖脂肪酸エステル(ただし、ショ糖脂肪酸エステルを2種以上用いる場合、各ショ糖脂肪酸エステルのHLB値をその含有質量比率に基づいて加重平均して求められる混合HLB値が8以下である)
(C) ステロイド骨格を有する融点100℃以上の化合物
(D) 35℃で液状の極性油
(E) 35℃で液状の炭化水素
【選択図】なし
Description
(A) 油溶性カミツレ抽出物
(B) HLBが8以下であるショ糖脂肪酸エステル(ただし、ショ糖脂肪酸エステルを2種以上用いる場合、各ショ糖脂肪酸エステルのHLB値をその含有質量比率に基づいて加重平均して求められる混合HLB値が8以下である)
(C) ステロイド骨格を有する融点100℃以上の化合物
(D) 35℃で液状の極性油
(E) 35℃で液状の炭化水素
成分(A)の油溶性カミツレ抽出物は、キク科植物であるカミツレ〔Matricaria chamomilla L. (Compositae)〕の花を、親油性有機溶剤で抽出することにより得られる。用いられる溶剤としては、溶解度パラメータ(SP値)が15〜21の範囲にある油剤が好ましく、例えばミリスチン酸イソプロピル(SP値17.0)、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール(SP値17.7)、流動パラフィン(SP値16.4)、スクワラン(SP値16.2)及びこれらの2種以上の混合溶剤が挙げられる。また、これらはヒマシ油、パーシック油、大豆油、ヒマワリ油等の植物由来の油等であっても良い。一般に、抽出に用いる油剤によって、抽出物に含まれる成分の種類と量が異なる。本発明においては、スクワランを用いた抽出物が、より優れた光老化抑制作用等の生理作用効果を発現させる観点から好ましい。ここで、SP値とは物質間の相溶性の尺度をいい、特開平10-194920号公報に記載の方法に従って、Hansenの3次元溶解度パラメーターを計算することにより求めることができる。
成分(B)のHLBが8以下であるショ糖脂肪酸エステルは、食品、化粧料原料に一般に用いられるHLBが8以下のショ糖脂肪酸エステルであれば特に制限されないが、脂肪酸の平均置換度が2以上であるショ糖脂肪酸エステルが好ましい。置換度が2以上であるショ糖脂肪酸エステルとは、ショ糖の水酸基の水素原子が2つ以上脂肪酸アシル基で置換されたエステルであり、前記の観点から、脂肪酸の平均置換度が2〜6のショ糖脂肪酸エステルがより好ましい。
混合HLB値=Σ (HLBx × Wx)/ΣWx
(HLBxは、ショ糖脂肪酸エステルXのHLB値を示す。Wxは、ショ糖脂肪酸エステルXの質量(g)を示す。)
前記混合HLBの範囲内であれば、HLBが8超のショ糖脂肪酸エステルを少量用いることが可能であるが、水中油型乳化組成物を安定に形成し、経時安定性を向上させる観点から、HLBが8以下のショ糖脂肪酸エステルに対して、HLBが8超のショ糖脂肪酸エステルの質量含有比は、0.25以下が好ましく、0.15以下が好ましく、0.05以下が更に好ましい。
成分(C)のステロイド骨格を有する融点100℃以上の化合物としては、具体的には、コレステロール(融点149℃)、コレスタノール(融点141℃)、ラノステロール(融点139℃)、ブラシカステロール(融点157℃)、フィトステロール(β-シトステロール(融点140℃)、カンペステロール(融点157℃)、スティグマステロール(融点170℃)からなる混合物でその含有質量比率は2:1:1である)、γ-オリザノール(融点136℃)等のステロール類のほか、エストロン(融点260℃)、エストラジオール(融点174〜180℃)、エストリオール(融点284℃)等のエストロゲン類が挙げられる。これらの化合物は、いずれかを単独で、又は2種以上を適宜組み合わせて用いることができる。また、これらのステロイド骨格を有する化合物を含有する動植物油等の混合物も使用することができる。ここで、本発明において上記成分(C)の融点は、医薬部外品原料規格2006、融点測定法、第1法により測定する。
成分(D)の35℃で液状の極性油としては、本発明においては、35℃で液状であり、水への溶解度(1013.25hPa、20℃)が2g/100gH2O未満の極性を有する物質である。これらの極性油としては、エステル油、エーテル油、脂肪酸、高級アルコール等が挙げられる。ここで、35℃で液状とは、35℃における粘度が10000mPa・s以下であることをいう。粘度は、B型粘度計(ビスメトロン粘度計:型式VS-A1(芝浦システム社製)を用いて、1気圧下、35℃の条件にて、スピンドル番号3、12rpm(回転/分)、30秒で測定される。
成分(E)の35℃で液状の炭化水素としては、本発明においては、35℃で液状の無極性の物質である。ここで、35℃で液状とは、35℃における粘度が10000mPa・s以下であることをいう。粘度は、B型粘度計(ビスメトロン粘度計:型式VS-A1(芝浦システム社製)を用いて、1気圧下、35℃の条件にて、スピンドル番号3、12rpm(回転/分)、30秒で測定される。
本発明の水中油型乳化組成物には、更に成分(F)として、35℃で固形状の炭素数14以上24以下の高級アルコールを含有させることができる。ここで、35℃で固形状とは、35℃における粘度が10000mPa・s超であることをいう。
本発明の水中油型乳化組成物には、成分(G)として水を含有する。水中油型乳化組成物中における成分(G)の含有量は、水中油型乳化系を形成し、べたつきを低減し、肌収まりを向上させる観点から、50質量%以上が好ましく、60質量%以上がより好ましく、70質量%以上がさらに好ましく、また90質量%以下が好ましく、85質量%以下が好ましく、80質量%以下がより好ましい。具体的には、好ましくは50〜90質量%であり、より好ましくは60〜85質量%であり、更に好ましくは70〜80質量%である。
本発明の水中油型乳化組成物には、成分(B)以外の界面活性剤、水溶性高分子、多価アルコール、成分(D)以外の紫外線吸収剤、金属イオン封鎖剤、中和剤、pH調整剤、酸化防止剤、抗菌剤、防腐剤、制汗剤、薬剤、香料、各種の抽出液等の通常化粧料に用いられる各種の原料を含有することができる。なお、これらの各剤は、各剤としての用途に限られず、目的に応じて他の用途、例えば、制汗剤を香料として使用したり、他の用途との併用として、例えば、制汗剤と香料としての効果を奏するものとして使用することができる。
本発明の水中油型乳化組成物は、形態に応じて所定の手順により製造することができる。例えば、本発明の水中油型乳化組成物の製造方法は、成分(A)〜(G)を共に混合する工程を含んでもよい。
また、本発明の水中油型乳化組成物の製造方法は、成分(B)及び成分(G)を含む水相を、好ましくは50〜90℃、より好ましくは55〜85℃に加熱し、撹拌する工程1と、
成分(A)、成分(C)、成分(D)、成分(E)及び成分(F)を含む油相を、好ましくは50〜90℃、より好ましくは55〜85℃に加熱し、撹拌する工程2と、
工程1の調製物と、工程2の調製物とを混合させる工程3を含んでいても良い。
表1〜3に示す処方に従い、水中油型乳化組成物を調製した。
1.成分16〜28を80℃に加熱し、80℃の加熱下で均一に混合攪拌する
2.成分1〜15を80℃に加熱し、80℃の加熱下で均一に混合攪拌する。
3.工程1の調製物に、工程2の調製物を添加し、80℃の加熱下でホモミキサー(5000rpm、5分)を用いて乳化させる。
4.加熱をやめ、50℃まで冷却した後、成分29〜31を工程3の調製物に添加し、ホモミキサー(3500rpm、2分)で均一に分散させる。
5.室温(25℃)まで冷却する
表1〜3に記載の水中油型乳化組成物を100mLガラス瓶に80mL入れて密封し、それぞれの試料を45℃の恒温槽に3ヶ月間保管した。調製直後の状態を基準として、3ヶ月後の外観の変化について、目視により下記基準に基づいて判定した。
△ :極めて軽微な分離(離油、離水等)が見られる
× :明らかな分離(離油、離水等)が見られる
△ :極めて軽微な過剰固化・結晶析出が見られる
× :明らかな過剰固化・結晶析出が見られる
10名の評価パネラーが、「臭いのなさ」及び「塗布後の肌収まりの良さ」について評価した。評価結果は、10名の評価パネラーの平均点で示す。
表1〜3に記載した調製直後の試料の臭いを確認し、成分(A)に由来する臭いが感じられるもの(下記評価基準2、1に該当するもの)を除き、100mLガラス瓶に80mL入れて密封し、それぞれの試料を45℃の恒温槽に3ヶ月保管した。その後、開封して試料の臭いの有無を確認し、下記評価基準に基づき、評価を行った。なお、調製直後の試料において、成分(A)に由来する臭いが感じられたものは評価を行わず、「−」と表示する。
(評価基準)
3:成分(A)に由来する臭いをまったく感じない
2:成分(A)に由来する臭いと判別できる弱い臭い感じる
1:強い成分(A)に由来する臭いを感じる
表1〜3に記載の調製直後の試料2gを手の甲に均一に塗布し、以下の評価基準により塗布後の肌収まりについて評価を行った。
(評価基準)
5:肌収まりが非常に良い
4:肌収まりが良い
3:肌おさまりがやや良い
2:肌収まりが悪い
1:肌収まりが非常に悪い
*2:Mファインオイル CCT-1、ミヨシ油脂社製
*3:パールリーム EX、日油社製
*4:コスメライク S-50、第一工業製薬社製
*5:シンタレンL、和光純薬社製
*6:ALARIANE(アラリアエスクレンタエキス)、Biotech Marine社製
(成分) 含有量(質量%)
ベルガモットオイル(天然香料) 2.0
リナリールアセテート 1.5
メチルアンスラニレート 0.2
ペチグレインオイル(天然香料) 0.5
オーランチオール 10%DPG(ヒドロキシシトロネラールとメチルアンスラニレートとのシッフ塩基) 1.0
アミルアリルグリコレート 1%DPG 0.5
ガルバナムオイル 1%DPG(天然香料) 0.1
ブラックカラントバズアブソリュート 10%DPG(天然香料) 1.5
タジェットオイル 10%DPG(天然香料) 0.8
イランイランオイルエキストラ(天然香料) 2.0
ベンジールアセテート 5.0
メチルジヒドロジャスモネート 13.0
シスジャスモン 10%DPG 1.0
ジャスミンアブソリュート(天然香料) 0.5
インドール 5%DPG 0.5
アルファヘキシルシンナミックアルデヒド 1.5
L-シトロネロール 0.5
ローズオイル(天然香料) 0.5
ローズアブソリュート(天然香料) 0.5
ダマセノン 1%DPG 0.5
L-ローズオキサイド 1%DPG 0.5
ジメチルベンジルカーボニルアセテート 1.0
ヒドロキシシトロネラール 3.0
リラール(化合物名:4-(4-ヒドロキシ-4-メチルペンチル)-3-シクロヘキセン-1-カーボキシアルデヒド) 3.5
シクラメンアルデヒド(化合物名:2-メチル-3-(4-イソプロピルフェニル)-プロパノール) 0.5
アルファイソメチルヨノン(化合物名:5-(2,2,6-トリメチル-2-シクロヘキセニル)-3-メチル-3-ブテン-2-オン) 4.0
オリスコンクリート 10%DPG(天然香料) 0.8
メチルオイゲノール 0.5
イソEスーパー(化合物名:7-アセチル-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-オクタハイドロ-1,1,6,7-テトラメチルナフタレン) 2.5
ベルトフィックスクール(化合物名:4-アセチル-トリメチル-6,8α-エタノ-1,2,3,5,6,7,8,8α-オクタヒドロナフタレノン) 4.0
ベチバーアセテート 2.0
サンダルウッドオイル(天然香料) 1.5
バグダノール 10%DPG(化合物名:2-エチル-4-(2,2,3-トリメチル-3-シクロペンテン-1-イル)-2-ブテン-1-オール) 1.0
パチュリーオイル 10%DPG(天然香料) 0.2
エベルニール 10%DPG(化合物名:メチル-2,4-ジヒドロキシ-3,6-ジメチルベンゾエート) 1.5
ガラクソリッド 50%ベンジールベンゾエート(化合物名:4,6,6,7,8,8-ヘキサメチル-1,3,4,6,7,8-ヘキサヒロドシクロペンタベンゾピラン) 10.0
シクロペンタデカノリッド 4.0
ヘリオトロピン 0.5
クマリン 0.5
バニリン 10%DPG 0.5
エチルバニリン 10%DPG 2.5
ラズベリーケトン 10%DPG(化合物名:4-(4-ヒドロフェニル)-2-ブタノン) 0.5
ガンマウンデカラクトン 10%DPG 1.5
ガンマデカラクトン 10%DPG 1.5
ラブダナム アブソリュート 10%DPG(天然香料) 0.5
ジプロピレングリコール 残量
(成分) 含有量(質量%)
1.油溶性カミツレ抽出物(*1) 0.5
2.コレステロール 0.1
3.メドウフォーム油 2.0
4.シア脂 0.3
5.重質流動イソパラフィン(*7) 0.2
6.流動イソパラフィン(*8) 0.3
7.ベヘニルアルコール 0.2
8.ショ糖脂肪酸エステル(*4) 0.3
9.エデト酸二ナトリウム 0.01
10.キサンタンガム 0.03
11.濃グリセリン 5.0
12.ジグリセリン 1.0
13.クロルフェネシン 0.1
14.カルボキシビニルポリマー(*5) 0.1
15.ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム(*9) 0.01
16.水酸化カリウム 適量
17.水 残量
18.エタノール 5.0
19.(HDI/トリメチロールヘキシルラクトン)クロスポリマー(*10) 0.5
20.アラリアエスクレンタエキス(*6) 0.1
*7:パールリーム18、日油社製
*8:カーネーション70、Sonneborn社製
*9:ヒアルロン酸FCH-120、キッコーマンバイオケミファ社製
*10:プラスティックパウダー D-400、東色ピグメント社製
1.成分1〜7の油相を80℃で加熱し、攪拌する。
2.成分8〜17の水相を80℃で加熱し、攪拌する。
3.水相に油相を添加し、ホモミキサー(5000rpm、3分間)を用いて混合した後、冷却する。
4.40℃まで冷却した後、予め成分18及び成分19を混合したもの並びに成分20を添加し、ホモミキサー(3500rpm、1分間)を用いて混合する。
5.分散後、再度冷却を開始し、30℃まで冷却して完成とする。
(成分) 含有量(質量%)
1.油溶性カミツレ抽出物(*1) 0.5
2.フィトステロール 0.2
3.マカデミアナッツ油 5.0
4.米糠油 5.0
5.ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル 1.0
6.α−オレフィンオリゴマー 2.0
7.ベヘニルアルコール 3.0
8.ジメチコン(6cs)(*11) 1.0
9.ジメチコン(100cs)(*12) 0.5
10.グリチルレチン酸ステアリル 0.2
11.ショ糖脂肪酸エステル(*4) 3.5
12.エデト酸二ナトリウム 0.02
13.キサンタンガム 0.15
14.カルボキシビニルポリマー(*5) 0.12
15.濃グリセリン 3.0
16.マルチトール液(マルチトール75%水溶液) 2.0
17.ソルビトール液(ソルビトール70%水溶液) 3.0
18.クロルフェネシン 0.1
19.フェノキシエタノール 0.3
20.水酸化カリウム 適量
21.水 残量
22.海藻エキス(*6) 0.3
*11:KF-96A-6cs(動粘度6mm2/s、25℃)、信越化学工業社製
*12:KF-96A-100cs(動粘度100mm2/s、25℃)、信越化学工業社製
1.成分1〜10の油相を80℃で加熱し、攪拌する。
2.成分11〜21の水相を80℃で加熱し、攪拌する。
3.水相に油相を添加し、ホモミキサー(6000rpm、5分間)を用いて混合した後、冷却する。
4.40℃まで冷却した後、成分22を添加し、ホモミキサー(5000rpm、1分間)を用いて混合する。
5.分散後、再度冷却を開始し、30℃まで冷却して完成とする。
Claims (5)
- 下記成分(A)〜(E)を含有し、成分(D)に対する成分(E)の含有質量比[(E)/(D)]が、0.15以上1.55以下である水中油型乳化組成物。
(A) 油溶性カミツレ抽出物
(B) HLBが8以下であるショ糖脂肪酸エステル(ただし、ショ糖脂肪酸エステルを2種以上用いる場合、各ショ糖脂肪酸エステルのHLB値をその含有質量比率に基づいて加重平均して求められる混合HLB値が8以下である)
(C) ステロイド骨格を有する融点100℃以上の化合物
(D) 35℃で液状の極性油
(E) 35℃で液状の炭化水素 - 成分(D)及び成分(E)の水中油型乳化組成物中の合計含有量が20質量%以下である請求項1に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 成分(D)に対する成分(E)の含有質量比[(E)/(D)]が、0.18以上1.52以下である請求項1又は2に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 成分(B)に対する成分(C)の含有質量比[(C)/(B)]が、0.005以上1.5以下である請求項1〜3のいずれか1項に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 乾燥固形分としての成分(A)の含有量が、0.00004質量%以上0.02質量%以下である請求項1〜4のいずれか1項に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
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WO2021172088A1 (ja) * | 2020-02-25 | 2021-09-02 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 水中油型組成物および化粧料 |
WO2023085118A1 (ja) * | 2021-11-11 | 2023-05-19 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 化粧料 |
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JP7057127B2 (ja) | 2017-12-28 | 2022-04-19 | 花王株式会社 | 水中油型乳化組成物 |
WO2021172088A1 (ja) * | 2020-02-25 | 2021-09-02 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 水中油型組成物および化粧料 |
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WO2023085118A1 (ja) * | 2021-11-11 | 2023-05-19 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 化粧料 |
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