JP2017019754A - Elastase inhibitor - Google Patents
Elastase inhibitor Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2017019754A JP2017019754A JP2015139906A JP2015139906A JP2017019754A JP 2017019754 A JP2017019754 A JP 2017019754A JP 2015139906 A JP2015139906 A JP 2015139906A JP 2015139906 A JP2015139906 A JP 2015139906A JP 2017019754 A JP2017019754 A JP 2017019754A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- mass
- extract
- preferable
- elastase inhibitor
- skin
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
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Abstract
Description
本発明は、エラスターゼ阻害剤に関する。 The present invention relates to an elastase inhibitor.
化粧料を皮膚に塗布して得られうる効果の1つに、皮膚の老化を抑制することが挙げられる。皮膚の老化の原因について、加齢、乾燥、酸化、太陽光(紫外線)等による影響が主な因子に挙げられている。皮膚の老化は、皮膚真皮におけるコラーゲンやエラスチンの減少、ヒアルロン酸をはじめとするムコ多糖類の減少、紫外線による細胞の損傷等により認知される。
このうち、エラスチンは、互いに架橋して組織の弾性に寄与しているが、紫外線暴露や加齢により、エラスチン破壊酵素であるエラスターゼの過剰発現によってエラスチンが変性、破壊されることが、皮膚の弾力性低下につながると考えられている。したがって、エラスターゼの活性を抑制することは、皮膚に弾力やハリを与え、皮膚の老化を防止するという点で重要である。
One of the effects that can be obtained by applying cosmetics to the skin is to suppress skin aging. Regarding the causes of skin aging, the effects of aging, drying, oxidation, sunlight (ultraviolet rays) and the like are cited as main factors. Skin aging is recognized by a decrease in collagen and elastin in the skin dermis, a decrease in mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, and cell damage by ultraviolet rays.
Among them, elastin cross-links each other and contributes to the elasticity of the tissue, but elastin is denatured and destroyed by overexpression of elastin, which is an elastin-degrading enzyme, due to UV exposure and aging. It is thought to lead to a decline in sex. Therefore, suppressing the activity of elastase is important in terms of giving skin elasticity and elasticity and preventing skin aging.
特許文献1(特開平9−87136号公報)には、トウダイグサ(Euphorbiaceae)科のフィランサス(Phyllanthuss)属のメニラン(P.niruri L.)の抽出物を皮膚外用剤に配合すること、および、かかる皮膚外用剤をエラスターゼ阻害剤として用いうることが記載されている。 Patent Document 1 (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-87136) discloses blending an extract of P. niruri L. belonging to the genus Phyllanthuss of the Euphorbiaceae family into a skin external preparation, and such It describes that an external preparation for skin can be used as an elastase inhibitor.
特許文献2(特開2000−119189号公報)には、ショウキョウ、加水分解アーモンド、ワレモコウ、チョウジ、エイジツ、セイヨウサンザシ及びシラカバから選ばれる植物、又はその抽出物、水蒸気蒸留物、圧搾物を有効成分とするエラスターゼ阻害剤に関する技術が記載されている。 Patent Document 2 (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-119189) effectively uses a plant selected from shrimp, hydrolyzed almonds, walnut mushrooms, clove, ages, hawthorn and birch, or an extract, steam distillate, and pressed product. Techniques relating to elastase inhibitors as ingredients are described.
しかし、近年の消費者の健康・美意識の高まりから、老化に対して、より優れた抗老化効果を有する皮膚化粧料が求められるようになってきている。この点、特許文献1および2に記載の技術では、さらに優れたエラスターゼ阻害剤を提供するという点でなお改善の余地があった。 However, due to the recent increase in consumer health and beauty awareness, skin cosmetics having a better anti-aging effect against aging have been demanded. In this regard, the techniques described in Patent Documents 1 and 2 still have room for improvement in terms of providing a more excellent elastase inhibitor.
本発明者らは、ショウキョウエキスおよびアセチルヘキサペプチドを含むエラスターゼ阻害剤によって、優れたエラスターゼ阻害活性が得られることを見出した。 The present inventors have found that an elastase inhibitory activity including a ginger extract and an acetyl hexapeptide can provide excellent elastase inhibitory activity.
本発明は、ショウキョウエキスおよびアセチルヘキサペプチドを含む、エラスターゼ阻害剤を提供するものである。 The present invention provides an elastase inhibitor comprising a pepper extract and an acetyl hexapeptide.
また、本発明は、前述した本発明におけるエラスターゼ阻害剤を含む皮膚化粧料を提供するものである。 Moreover, this invention provides the skin cosmetics containing the elastase inhibitor in this invention mentioned above.
本発明によれば、優れたエラスターゼ阻害効果を奏するエラスターゼ阻害剤を得ることができる。 According to the present invention, an elastase inhibitor having an excellent elastase inhibitory effect can be obtained.
本実施形態におけるエラスターゼ阻害剤は、ショウキョウエキスおよびアセチルヘキサペプチドを含む組成物である。
以下、各成分について具体例を挙げて説明する。なお、各成分はいずれも単独でまたは二種以上を組み合わせて用いることができる。
The elastase inhibitor in this embodiment is a composition containing a Tokyo extract and an acetyl hexapeptide.
Hereinafter, each component will be described with specific examples. Each component can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
本実施形態のエラスターゼ阻害剤で用いられるショウキョウは、ショウガ科(Zingiberaceae)のショウガ(Zingiber officinale Roscoe)の根茎である。
ショウキョウエキスは、各植物の全草またはその葉、花、樹皮、根、枝等から選ばれる1または2以上の箇所(以下「原体」と称する。)から得られる。具体的には、原体を乾燥しまたは乾燥することなく粉砕した後、常温または加温下に、溶剤により抽出するかまたはソックスレー抽出器等の抽出器具を用いて抽出することによりショウキョウエキスを得ることができる。
The ginger used in the elastase inhibitor of the present embodiment is a rhizome of Zingiber officinale Roscoe.
The pepper extract is obtained from one or two or more sites (hereinafter referred to as “original”) selected from the whole plant of each plant or its leaves, flowers, bark, roots, branches and the like. Specifically, after the raw material is dried or pulverized without drying, it is extracted with a solvent at room temperature or under heating, or extracted with an extractor such as a Soxhlet extractor to extract the ginger extract. Can be obtained.
ここで、抽出に使用される溶剤は限定されず、たとえば水;メタノール、エタノール、プロパノール等の1価のアルコール;プロピレングリコール、1,3−ブチレングリコール、グリセリン等の多価アルコール;酢酸エチルエステル等の液状脂肪酸低級アルキルエステル;ヘキサン、エチルエーテル、アセトン等の上述したもの以外の有機溶媒;ヒマシ油、流動パラフィン、大豆油、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、低級脂肪酸トリグリセリド、ヒマワリ油、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、スクワラン、トリス[2−(2−エトキシエトキシ)エチル]ホスフェート等の油剤で抽出することによりショウキョウエキスを得ることができる。これら溶剤は、1種以上を使用することができる。
抽出溶剤として、好ましくは1,3−ブチレングリコール、グリセリン等の多価アルコール、水、エタノールおよびスクワランからなる群から選択される1種以上が用いられる。
Here, the solvent used for extraction is not limited, for example, water; monohydric alcohols such as methanol, ethanol and propanol; polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and glycerin; ethyl acetate and the like Liquid fatty acid lower alkyl esters of organic solvents other than those described above, such as hexane, ethyl ether, acetone, etc .; castor oil, liquid paraffin, soybean oil, isopropyl myristate, lower fatty acid triglycerides, sunflower oil, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, squalane By extracting with an oil such as tris [2- (2-ethoxyethoxy) ethyl] phosphate, a pepper extract can be obtained. One or more of these solvents can be used.
As the extraction solvent, one or more selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols such as 1,3-butylene glycol and glycerin, water, ethanol and squalane are preferably used.
原体からの好ましい抽出方法の具体例としては、原体を乾燥したものを裁断、粉砕し、溶剤として、多価アルコール、水、エタノール、スクワランから選ばれる1種以上を用いて抽出する方法が挙げられる。 As a specific example of a preferable method for extracting from the active ingredient, there is a method of cutting and pulverizing a dried active ingredient, and using one or more selected from polyhydric alcohol, water, ethanol, and squalane as a solvent. Can be mentioned.
得られたショウキョウエキスは、抽出された溶液のまま用いてもよいが、さらに必要により、希釈、濃縮、濾過等の処理をしたものを用いることができる。 The obtained ginger extract may be used as it is, but it may be further subjected to dilution, concentration, filtration or the like if necessary.
本実施形態におけるエラスターゼ阻害剤中のショウキョウエキスの含有量は、優れたエラスターゼ阻害活性を安定的に得る観点から、エラスターゼ阻害剤全体に対して蒸発残分換算で好ましくは0.00001〜5質量%(以下単に「%」とも表す。)であり、また、0.0001〜1質量%含有するのが、エラスターゼ阻害活性効果を向上させる観点でより好ましい。 The content of the ginger extract in the elastase inhibitor in this embodiment is preferably 0.00001 to 5 mass in terms of evaporation residue with respect to the entire elastase inhibitor from the viewpoint of stably obtaining excellent elastase inhibitory activity. % (Hereinafter also simply referred to as “%”), and 0.0001 to 1% by mass is more preferable from the viewpoint of improving the elastase inhibitory activity effect.
本実施形態におけるエラスターゼ阻害剤には、ショウキョウエキスとともにアセチルヘキサペプチドが含まれる。アセチルヘキサペプチドとは、具体的には、合成ヘキサペプチドの一種であり、筋肉の収縮に作用するペプチドとして知られ、配列1に示される下記アミノ酸配列を有するアセチルヘキサペプチド−8である。
Ac−Glu−Glu−Met−Gln−Arg−Arg−NH2
Ac:アセチル基
Glu:L−α−グルタミル基
Met:L−メチオニル基
Gln:L−グルタミニル基
Arg:L−アルギニル基
The elastase inhibitor in the present embodiment includes acetylhexapeptide together with the ginger extract. Specifically, acetyl hexapeptide is a kind of synthetic hexapeptide, which is known as a peptide that acts on muscle contraction, and is acetylhexapeptide-8 having the following amino acid sequence shown in Sequence 1.
Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH 2
Ac: Acetyl group Glu: L-α-glutamyl group Met: L-methionyl group Gln: L-glutaminyl group Arg: L-arginyl group
本発明者らは、エラスターゼ阻害効果を有するショウキョウエキスと、エラスターゼ阻害効果のないとされるアセチルヘキサペプチドとを組み合わせることにより、意外にも、エラスターゼ阻害活性が向上することを見出した。 The present inventors have surprisingly found that elastase inhibitory activity can be improved by combining a yeast extract having an elastase inhibitory effect with an acetylhexapeptide which has no elastase inhibitory effect.
アセチルヘキサペプチドとしては、たとえば市販品を用いることができる。市販品の具体例として、Lipotec社により製造され、Centerchem社(Norwalk、CT)から購入できるArgireline(登録商標)が挙げられる。 As the acetyl hexapeptide, for example, a commercially available product can be used. A specific example of a commercially available product is Argireline (registered trademark) manufactured by Lipotec and purchased from Centerchem (Norwalk, CT).
本実施形態におけるエラスターゼ阻害剤中のアセチルヘキサペプチドの含有量は、エラスターゼ阻害剤全体に対して好ましくは0.00001〜0.5%、より好ましくは0.0001〜0.1%、さらに好ましくは0.0005〜0.01%含有するのが、エラスターゼ阻害活性を向上させる観点で好ましい。 The content of acetyl hexapeptide in the elastase inhibitor in the present embodiment is preferably 0.00001 to 0.5%, more preferably 0.0001 to 0.1%, still more preferably with respect to the entire elastase inhibitor. The content of 0.0005 to 0.01% is preferable from the viewpoint of improving the elastase inhibitory activity.
また、本実施形態におけるエラスターゼ阻害剤における、アセチルヘキサペプチドの含有量に対するショウキョウエキス(蒸発残分)の含有量の質量比(ショウキョウエキス/アセチルヘキサペプチド)は、エラスターゼ阻害活性効果を向上させる観点から、0.01〜2000が好ましく、0.08〜500がより好ましく、0.2〜200がさらに好ましい。 In the elastase inhibitor according to the present embodiment, the mass ratio of the content of the yeast extract (evaporation residue) to the content of acetyl hexapeptide (shower extract / acetyl hexapeptide) improves the elastase inhibitory activity effect. From the viewpoint, 0.01 to 2000 is preferable, 0.08 to 500 is more preferable, and 0.2 to 200 is more preferable.
本実施形態のエラスターゼ阻害剤には、上記有効成分以外に、通常配合される成分、たとえば、精製水、アルコール、キレート剤、各種油剤、界面活性剤、乳化剤、増粘剤、防腐剤、酸化防止剤、溶剤、薬効成分、粉体、色素、香料等を配合できる。 In the elastase inhibitor of this embodiment, in addition to the above active ingredients, components that are usually blended, for example, purified water, alcohol, chelating agents, various oil agents, surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, antioxidants Agents, solvents, medicinal ingredients, powders, pigments, fragrances and the like can be blended.
本実施形態においては、ショウキョウエキスおよびアセチルヘキサペプチドを組み合わせて用いることにより、エラスターゼ阻害活性に優れたエラスターゼ阻害剤を得ることができる。また、本実施形態により、たとえば、安全性に優れるとともに優れたエラスターゼ阻害活性を有するエラスターゼ阻害剤を得ることも可能となる。 In this embodiment, the elastase inhibitor excellent in the elastase inhibitory activity can be obtained by using a combination of a yeast extract and an acetyl hexapeptide. In addition, according to this embodiment, for example, it is possible to obtain an elastase inhibitor having excellent elastase inhibitory activity while being excellent in safety.
<皮膚化粧料>
本実施形態における皮膚化粧料は、前述のエラスターゼ阻害剤を含有してなるものである。
皮膚化粧料中のエラスターゼ阻害剤の含有量は、エラスターゼ阻害活性効果を向上させる観点および塗布時および塗布後のべたつきが抑制される観点から、0.00002〜6%が好ましく、0.00011〜1.5%がより好ましく、0.001〜0.6%がさらに好ましい。
また、同様の観点から、皮膚化粧料中のショウキョウエキス(蒸発残分)の含有量は0.00001〜5%が好ましく、0.0001〜1%がより好ましく、0.0005〜0.5%がさらに好ましい。
さらに、同様の観点から、皮膚化粧料中のアセチルヘキサペプチドの含有量は0.00001〜0.5%が好ましく、0.0001〜0.1%がより好ましく、0.0005〜0.01%がさらに好ましい。
<Skin cosmetic>
The skin cosmetic in the present embodiment contains the aforementioned elastase inhibitor.
The content of the elastase inhibitor in the skin cosmetic is preferably 0.00002 to 6%, from the viewpoint of improving the elastase inhibitory activity effect and the stickiness at the time of application and after application, and is preferably 0.00011-1. 0.5% is more preferable, and 0.001 to 0.6% is more preferable.
From the same viewpoint, the content of the ginger extract (evaporation residue) in the skin cosmetic is preferably 0.00001 to 5%, more preferably 0.0001 to 1%, and 0.0005 to 0.5. % Is more preferable.
Furthermore, from the same viewpoint, the content of acetyl hexapeptide in the skin cosmetic is preferably 0.00001 to 0.5%, more preferably 0.0001 to 0.1%, and 0.0005 to 0.01%. Is more preferable.
本実施形態において、皮膚化粧料中のアセチルヘキサペプチドの含有量に対するショウキョウエキス(蒸発残分)の含有量の質量比(ショウキョウエキス/アセチルヘキサペプチド)は、エラスターゼ阻害活性効果を向上させる観点および塗布時および塗布後のべたつきが抑制される点から、0.01〜2000が好ましく、0.08〜500がより好ましく、0.2〜200がさらに好ましく、10〜100がさらにより好ましい。 In the present embodiment, the mass ratio of the content of the ginger extract (evaporation residue) to the content of the acetyl hexapeptide in the skin cosmetic (the ginger extract / acetyl hexapeptide) is a viewpoint that improves the elastase inhibitory activity effect. And from the point which the stickiness at the time of application | coating and after application | coating is suppressed, 0.01-2000 are preferable, 0.08-500 are more preferable, 0.2-200 are more preferable, 10-100 are still more preferable.
本実施形態の皮膚化粧料には、上述した成分以外にも、皮膚化粧料に通常配合される成分、たとえば、精製水、アルコール、キレート剤、各種油剤、界面活性剤、乳化剤、増粘剤、防腐剤、酸化防止剤、溶剤、薬効成分、粉体、色素、香料、前述した本実施形態のエラスターゼ阻害剤以外のエラスターゼ阻害剤、角化改善剤、紫外線吸収剤、紫外線防御剤、コラーゲン、保湿剤、抗炎症剤、抗酸化剤等を配合できる。他の成分の好ましい例については、具体例を挙げながら後述する。 In the skin cosmetic of the present embodiment, in addition to the components described above, components usually blended in the skin cosmetic, such as purified water, alcohol, chelating agents, various oils, surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners, Preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, medicinal ingredients, powders, pigments, fragrances, elastase inhibitors other than the elastase inhibitors of this embodiment described above, keratinization improvers, UV absorbers, UV protection agents, collagen, moisturizing An agent, an anti-inflammatory agent, an antioxidant and the like can be added. Preferred examples of other components will be described later with specific examples.
本実施形態の皮膚化粧料は、皮膚、好ましくは、頭皮を除く部位、より好ましくは、顔、身体、手足等のいずれかに塗布することにより、使用することができる。 The skin cosmetic of the present embodiment can be used by applying it to the skin, preferably a site other than the scalp, more preferably any of the face, body, limbs and the like.
本実施形態の皮膚化粧料は、化粧水、ローション、乳液、美容クリーム、下地化粧料、日焼け止め化粧料、パック、マッサージ化粧料などの皮膚化粧料;各種薬剤を含有するクリーム等の外用医薬品として好適に利用できるが、これらの中でも、エラスターゼ阻害効果をより効果的に発現させる観点から、化粧水、乳液が好ましく、乳液がより好ましい。 Skin cosmetics of this embodiment are skin lotions such as lotions, lotions, emulsions, beauty creams, base cosmetics, sunscreen cosmetics, packs, massage cosmetics, etc .; as external medicines such as creams containing various drugs Among these, lotions and emulsions are preferable, and emulsions are more preferable from the viewpoint of more effectively expressing the elastase inhibitory effect.
本実施形態の皮膚化粧料を乳液とする場合には、さらに、α−ゲル構造を有することが好ましい。皮膚化粧料がα−ゲル構造を有することで、肌の水分蒸散を抑制して肌を保湿することができるとともに、本実施形態のエラスターゼ阻害剤のエラスターゼ阻害効果とあいまって、よりいっそう優れた老化抑制効果を得ることができる。 When the skin cosmetic of the present embodiment is an emulsion, it preferably further has an α-gel structure. Since the skin cosmetic has an α-gel structure, it is possible to moisturize the skin by suppressing the transpiration of the skin, and in addition to the elastase inhibitory effect of the elastase inhibitor of the present embodiment, a further excellent aging An inhibitory effect can be obtained.
皮膚化粧料にα−ゲル構造を形成させる観点から、たとえば、皮膚化粧料が、次の成分(A)〜(E)をさらに含有する構成とすることが好ましい。
(A)水酸基を2個以上有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が220〜450、有機性値が300〜1000である有機化合物、
(B)水酸基を1個有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が100〜200、有機性値が280〜700である有機化合物、
(C)セラミド類、
(D)ポリオキシエチレン基を有するHLB10以上の非イオン界面活性剤、イオン性界面活性剤およびスフィンゴシン塩類からなる群から選ばれる1種以上の化合物、および
(E)水。
From the viewpoint of forming an α-gel structure in the skin cosmetic, for example, it is preferable that the skin cosmetic further includes the following components (A) to (E).
(A) An organic compound having two or more hydroxyl groups, an inorganic value of 220 to 450, and an organic value of 300 to 1000,
(B) an organic compound having one hydroxyl group and having an inorganic value of 100 to 200 and an organic value of 280 to 700;
(C) Ceramides,
(D) One or more compounds selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants having a polyoxyethylene group of HLB 10 or higher, ionic surfactants and sphingosine salts, and (E) water.
成分(A)は、水酸基を2個以上有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が220〜450、有機性値が300〜1000である有機化合物である。成分(A)は、成分(B)、(C)および(D)と組み合わせてα−ゲル構造を形成させる観点から、無機性値が220〜340、有機性値が380〜840である有機化合物が好ましく、無機性値が250〜340、有機性値が380〜700である有機化合物がより好ましい。
本明細書において、無機性値および有機性値とは、それぞれ、有機概念図(藤田穆、有機化合物の予測と有機概念図、化学の領域Vol.11,No.10(1957)、P.719−725)に基づき求められる無機性値および有機性値の値をいう。
Component (A) is an organic compound having two or more hydroxyl groups, and has an inorganic value of 220 to 450 and an organic value of 300 to 1000. Component (A) is an organic compound having an inorganic value of 220 to 340 and an organic value of 380 to 840 from the viewpoint of forming an α-gel structure in combination with components (B), (C) and (D). An organic compound having an inorganic value of 250 to 340 and an organic value of 380 to 700 is more preferable.
In this specification, the inorganic value and the organic value are respectively an organic conceptual diagram (Akira Fujita, prediction of organic compounds and an organic conceptual diagram, chemistry area Vol. 11, No. 10 (1957), P. 719. The value of the inorganic value and organic value calculated | required based on -725).
成分(A)の具体例としては、次の一般式(1)で表されるものが挙げられる。 Specific examples of the component (A) include those represented by the following general formula (1).
(上記一般式(1)中、Z1は、グリセリン、ソルビタン、ソルビトールまたはショ糖残基で2個以上のヒドロキシル基を有する構造を示し、Y1は、エステル結合基またはエーテル結合基を示し、Rは、炭素数14〜22の炭化水素基を示し、nは1〜2の数を示す。) (In the general formula (1), Z 1 represents a structure having two or more hydroxyl groups in a glycerin, sorbitan, sorbitol or sucrose residue, Y 1 represents an ester bond group or an ether bond group, R represents a hydrocarbon group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and n represents a number of 1 to 2.
一般式(1)中、Rで示される炭素数14〜22の炭化水素基としては、直鎖炭化水素基が好ましく、たとえば、ミリスチル基、パルミチル基、ステアリル基、ベヘニル基等の直鎖アルキル基;パルミトイル基、オレイル基等が挙げられる。 In the general formula (1), the hydrocarbon group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms represented by R is preferably a linear hydrocarbon group, for example, a linear alkyl group such as a myristyl group, a palmityl group, a stearyl group, or a behenyl group. A palmitoyl group, an oleyl group, and the like.
一般式(1)で表される化合物としては、グリセリンモノ脂肪酸エステル、ソルビタンモノ脂肪酸エステル、ソルビタンジ脂肪酸エステル、ソルビトールモノ脂肪酸エステル、ソルビトールジ脂肪酸エステル、ショ糖モノ脂肪酸エステル、グリセリンモノアルキルエーテル等が挙げられる。 Examples of the compound represented by the general formula (1) include glycerin monofatty acid ester, sorbitan monofatty acid ester, sorbitan difatty acid ester, sorbitol monofatty acid ester, sorbitol difatty acid ester, sucrose monofatty acid ester, glycerin monoalkyl ether, and the like. Can be mentioned.
成分(A)としては、成分(B)、(C)および(D)と組み合わせてα−ゲル構造を形成させる観点から、グリセリンモノ脂肪酸エステル、グリセリンモノアルキルエーテル、ソルビタンモノ脂肪酸エステルおよびソルビタンジ脂肪酸エステルからなる群から選ばれる1種以上が好ましく、グリセリンモノ脂肪酸エステルまたはグリセリンモノアルキルエーテルがより好ましい。
このうち、グリセリンモノ脂肪酸エステルとしては、モノパルミチン酸グリセリル(無機性値260、有機性値380)、モノステアリン酸グリセリル(無機性値260、有機性値420)、モノベヘン酸グリセリル(無機性値260、有機性値500)から選ばれる少なくとも1種が好ましい。
グリセリンモノアルキルエーテルとしては、モノセチルグリセリルエーテル(無機性値220、有機性値380)、モノステアリルグリセリルエーテル(無機性値220、有機性値420)が好ましい。
ソルビタンモノ脂肪酸エステルとしては、モノステアリン酸ソルビタン(無機性値445、有機性値480)から選ばれる少なくとも1種が好ましい。
また、ソルビタンジ脂肪酸エステルとしては、ジステアリン酸ソルビタン(無機性値340、有機性値840)が好ましい。
また、同様の観点から、成分(A)としては、モノベヘン酸グリセリルまたはモノセチルグリセリルエーテルがより好ましい。
As component (A), from the viewpoint of forming an α-gel structure in combination with components (B), (C) and (D), glycerin monofatty acid ester, glycerin monoalkyl ether, sorbitan monofatty acid ester and sorbitan difatty acid 1 or more types chosen from the group which consists of ester are preferable, and glycerol mono-fatty acid ester or glycerol monoalkyl ether is more preferable.
Among these, glyceryl monofatty acid ester includes glyceryl monopalmitate (inorganic value 260, organic value 380), glyceryl monostearate (inorganic value 260, organic value 420), glyceryl monobehenate (inorganic value 260). And at least one selected from organic values 500).
As the glycerin monoalkyl ether, monocetyl glyceryl ether (inorganic value 220, organic value 380) and monostearyl glyceryl ether (inorganic value 220, organic value 420) are preferable.
The sorbitan monofatty acid ester is preferably at least one selected from sorbitan monostearate (inorganic value 445, organic value 480).
The sorbitan difatty acid ester is preferably sorbitan distearate (inorganic value 340, organic value 840).
In addition, from the same viewpoint, the component (A) is more preferably glyceryl monobehenate or monocetyl glyceryl ether.
成分(A)は、1種または2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、エラスターゼ阻害活性および保湿性を高め、抗老化効果を向上させる観点から、皮膚化粧料中の含有量は、皮膚化粧料全体に対して好ましくは0.05質量%以上であり、0.1質量%以上がより好ましく、0.3質量%以上がさらに好ましく、0.6質量%以上がさらにより好ましく、また、伸ばしやすさを向上させる観点から、好ましくは10質量%以下であり、6質量%以下が好ましく、3.5質量%以下がより好ましく、1.5質量%以下がさらに好ましい。また、成分(A)の含有量は、皮膚化粧料全体に対して好ましくは0.05〜10質量%であり、0.1〜6質量%がより好ましく、0.3〜3.5質量%がさらに好ましく、0.6〜1.5質量%がさらにより好ましい。 Component (A) can be used alone or in combination of two or more thereof, and from the viewpoint of improving elastase inhibitory activity and moisturizing properties and improving anti-aging effect, the content in skin cosmetics is skin cosmetics. Preferably it is 0.05 mass% or more with respect to the whole, 0.1 mass% or more is more preferable, 0.3 mass% or more is further more preferable, 0.6 mass% or more is further more preferable, and it is easy to extend. From the viewpoint of improving the thickness, it is preferably 10% by mass or less, preferably 6% by mass or less, more preferably 3.5% by mass or less, and further preferably 1.5% by mass or less. The content of the component (A) is preferably 0.05 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 6% by mass, and 0.3 to 3.5% by mass with respect to the entire skin cosmetic. Is more preferable, and 0.6 to 1.5% by mass is even more preferable.
本実施形態で用いる成分(B)は、水酸基を1個有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が100〜200、有機性値が280〜700である有機化合物である。
成分(B)は、成分(A)、(C)および(D)と組み合わせてα−ゲル構造を形成させる観点から、無機性値が100〜182、有機性値が300〜520である有機化合物が好ましい。
成分(B)としては、具体的には、炭素数12〜22の高級アルコールおよびステロール類から選ばれる1種以上の化合物が挙げられ、α−ゲルを形成させる観点から、炭素数12〜22の高級アルコールが好ましい。
The component (B) used in the present embodiment is an organic compound having one hydroxyl group and having an inorganic value of 100 to 200 and an organic value of 280 to 700.
Component (B) is an organic compound having an inorganic value of 100 to 182 and an organic value of 300 to 520 from the viewpoint of forming an α-gel structure in combination with components (A), (C) and (D). Is preferred.
Specific examples of the component (B) include one or more compounds selected from higher alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and sterols, and from the viewpoint of forming an α-gel, those having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Higher alcohols are preferred.
高級アルコールとしては、炭素数14〜22であるものが好ましく、炭素数16〜18のものがより好ましい。また、高級アルコールを構成する炭素鎖は、直鎖または分岐鎖のいずれでもよく、直鎖のものが好ましい。高級アルコールとしては、たとえば、ミリスチルアルコール(無機性値100、有機性値280)、セタノール(無機性値100、有機性値320)、ステアリルアルコール(無機性値100、有機性値360)、ベヘニルアルコール(無機性値100、有機性値440)、オレイルアルコール(無機性値102、有機性値360)等が挙げられる。 As the higher alcohol, those having 14 to 22 carbon atoms are preferable, and those having 16 to 18 carbon atoms are more preferable. The carbon chain constituting the higher alcohol may be either a straight chain or a branched chain, and a straight chain is preferable. Examples of the higher alcohol include myristyl alcohol (inorganic value 100, organic value 280), cetanol (inorganic value 100, organic value 320), stearyl alcohol (inorganic value 100, organic value 360), behenyl alcohol ( Inorganic value 100, organic value 440), oleyl alcohol (inorganic value 102, organic value 360), and the like.
また、ステロール類としては、コレステロール(無機性値182、有機性値520)およびフィトステロールが挙げられる。フィトステロールは、β−シトステロール、カンペステロール、スティグマステロール、ブラシカステロール等の植物ステロールの総称であり、その組成は限定されるものではない。 Examples of sterols include cholesterol (inorganic value 182 and organic value 520) and phytosterol. Phytosterol is a general term for plant sterols such as β-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, and brassicasterol, and the composition thereof is not limited.
成分(B)は、1種または2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、抗老化効果を向上させる観点、指止まり感および塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じを向上させる観点から、皮膚化粧料中の含有量は、皮膚化粧料全体に対して、好ましくは0.05質量%以上であり、0.1質量%以上がより好ましく、0.3質量%以上がさらに好ましく、0.5質量%以上がさらにより好ましく、また、伸ばしやすさを向上させる観点から、好ましくは10質量%以下であり、6質量%以下がより好ましく、3.5質量%以下がさらに好ましく、1.5質量%以下がさらにより好ましい。また、成分(B)の含有量は、皮膚化粧料全体に対して好ましくは0.05〜10質量%であり、0.1〜6質量%がより好ましく、0.3〜3.5質量%がさらに好ましく、0.5〜1.5質量%がさらにより好ましい。 Component (B) can be used alone or in combination of two or more thereof, from the viewpoint of improving the anti-aging effect, from the viewpoint of improving the feeling of finger tightness and the skin covered with the cosmetic after application. The content in the skin cosmetic is preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, still more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, based on the entire skin cosmetic. Is more preferably 5% by mass or more, and preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 6% by mass or less, still more preferably 3.5% by mass or less, from the viewpoint of improving ease of stretching. 5 mass% or less is still more preferable. The content of the component (B) is preferably 0.05 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 6% by mass, and 0.3 to 3.5% by mass with respect to the entire skin cosmetic. Is more preferable, and 0.5 to 1.5% by mass is even more preferable.
本実施形態で用いる成分(C)のセラミド類としては、(I)天然由来のセラミドおよび(II)擬似型セラミドから選ばれる1種または2種以上が好ましく、たとえば、特開2013−53146号公報に記載のセラミドが好ましい。
このうち、(I)天然由来のセラミド(以下、「天然型セラミド」ともいう。)の具体例としては、セラミドType1〜7(たとえば、J. Lipid Res., 24:759 (1983)の図2、およびJ. Lipid. Res.,35:2069(1994)の図4記載のブタおよびヒトのセラミド類)が挙げられる。さらに、これらのN−アルキル体(たとえば、N−メチル体)も含まれる。
As the ceramide of component (C) used in the present embodiment, one or more selected from (I) naturally-derived ceramide and (II) pseudo-ceramide are preferable. For example, JP 2013-53146 A The ceramide described in 1 is preferred.
Among these, as a specific example of (I) naturally derived ceramide (hereinafter also referred to as “natural ceramide”), ceramide types 1 to 7 (for example, J. Lipid Res., 24: 759 (1983), FIG. 2). And porcine and human ceramides described in FIG. 4 of J. Lipid. Res., 35: 2069 (1994)). Furthermore, these N-alkyl bodies (for example, N-methyl body) are also included.
これらのセラミドは、天然型(D(−)体)の光学活性体を用いても、非天然型(L(+)体)の光学活性体を用いても、さらに天然型と非天然型の混合物を用いてもよい。上記化合物の立体配置は、天然型の立体配置のものでも、それ以外の非天然型の立体配置のものでもよく、また、これらの混合物によるものでもよい。これらのうち、CERAMIDE1、CERAMIDE2、CERAMIDE3、CERAMIDE5、CERAMIDE6IIの化合物(以上、INCI、8th Edition)および次式で表わされるものが好ましい。 These ceramides can be either natural or non-natural (D (-)) optically active or non-natural (L (+)) optically active. Mixtures may be used. The configuration of the above compound may be a natural configuration, a non-natural configuration other than that, or a mixture thereof. Of these, compounds of CERAMIDE1, CERAMIDE2, CERAMIDE3, CERAMIDE5, CERAMIDE6II (above, INCI, 8th Edition) and those represented by the following formula are preferable.
これらは天然からの抽出物および合成物のいずれでもよく、市販のものを用いることができる。このような天然型セラミドの市販のものとしては、Ceramide I、Ceramide III、Ceramide IIIA、Ceramide IIIB、Ceramide IIIC、Ceramide VI(以上、コスモファーム社製)、Ceramide TIC-001(高砂香料社製)、CERAMIDE II(Quest International社製)、DS-Ceramide VI、DS-CLA-Phytoceramide、Phytoceramide、DS-ceramide Y3S(DOOSAN社製)、CERAMIDE2(セダーマ社製)が挙げられる。 These may be any of natural extracts and synthetic products, and commercially available products can be used. Examples of such commercially available ceramides include Ceramide I, Ceramide III, Ceramide IIIA, Ceramide IIIB, Ceramide IIIC, Ceramide VI (above, manufactured by Cosmo Farm), Ceramide TIC-001 (manufactured by Takasago Fragrance Co., Ltd.), CERAMIDE II (manufactured by Quest International), DS-Ceramide VI, DS-CLA-Phytoceramide, Phytoceramide, DS-ceramide Y3S (manufactured by DOOSAN), and CERAMIDE2 (manufactured by Sederma).
(II)擬似型セラミドとしては、次式で表されるN−(ヘキサデシロキシヒドロキシプロピル)−N−ヒドロキシエチルヘキサデカナミド、N−(ヘキサデシロキシヒドロキシプロピル)−N−ヒドロキシエチルデカナミド等が挙げられ、N−(ヘキサデシロキシヒドロキシプロピル)−N−ヒドロキシエチルヘキサデカナミドが好ましい。 (II) As pseudo-ceramide, N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide, N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethyldecanamim represented by the following formula: N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide is preferable.
成分(C)は、1種または2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、抗老化効果を向上させる観点および指どまり感および塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じを向上させる観点から、皮膚化粧料中の含有量は、皮膚化粧料全体に対して好ましくは0.05質量%以上であり、0.1質量%以上がより好ましく、0.5質量%以上がさらに好ましく、1質量%以上がさらにより好ましく、また、伸ばしやすさを向上させる観点から、好ましくは15質量%以下であり、10質量%以下がより好ましく、7質量%以下がさらに好ましく、3質量%以下がさらにより好ましい。また、成分(C)の含有量は、皮膚化粧料全体に対して好ましくは0.05〜15質量%であり、0.1〜10質量%がより好ましく、0.5〜7質量%がさらに好ましく、1〜3質量%がさらにより好ましい。 Component (C) can be used alone or in combination of two or more thereof, from the viewpoint of improving the anti-aging effect and from the viewpoint of improving the feeling of finger tightness and the feeling that the skin after application is covered with cosmetics. The content in the skin cosmetic is preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, still more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, based on the entire skin cosmetic. % Or more is more preferable, and from the viewpoint of improving ease of stretching, it is preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, further preferably 7% by mass or less, and further more preferably 3% by mass or less. preferable. Further, the content of the component (C) is preferably 0.05 to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass, and further 0.5 to 7% by mass with respect to the entire skin cosmetic. Preferably, 1 to 3% by mass is even more preferable.
本実施形態で用いる成分(D)は、ポリオキシエチレン基を有するHLB10以上の非イオン界面活性剤、イオン性界面活性剤およびスフィンゴシン塩類から選ばれる1種以上の化合物である。 Component (D) used in the present embodiment is one or more compounds selected from nonionic surfactants having a polyoxyethylene group of HLB 10 or higher, ionic surfactants, and sphingosine salts.
成分(D)のうち、非イオン界面活性剤は、ポリオキシエチレン基を有するものであって、HLB10以上、好ましくはHLB12.5〜15.5の親水性のものである。成分(D)として用いられる非イオン界面活性剤として、たとえば、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油(HLB14)、モノステアリン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン等のポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、アルキルポリオキシエチレングリセリル、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル等が挙げられる。これらのうち、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油およびモノステアリン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビタンから選ばれる1種以上が好ましい。 Among the components (D), the nonionic surfactant has a polyoxyethylene group and has a hydrophilicity of HLB 10 or more, preferably HLB 12.5 to 15.5. Nonionic surfactants used as component (D) include, for example, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (HLB14), polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate, alkyl polyoxyethylene glyceryl, polyoxy An ethylene alkyl ether etc. are mentioned. Among these, at least one selected from polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate is preferable.
また、成分(D)のうち、イオン性界面活性剤としては、アニオン界面活性剤、カチオン界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤が挙げられる。アニオン界面活性剤としては、たとえば、ラウリン酸ナトリウム、パルミチン酸カリウム、ステアリン酸アルギニン等の炭素数12〜24の脂肪酸塩;ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム、ラウリル硫酸カリウム等のアルキル硫酸エステル塩;ポリオキシエチレンラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン等のアルキルエーテル硫酸エステル塩;ラウロイルサルコシンナトリウム等のN−アシルサルコシン塩;N−ステアロイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム、N−ミリストイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム等の脂肪酸アミドスルホン酸塩;モノステアリルリン酸ナトリウム等のアルキルリン酸塩;ポリオキシエチレンオレイルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム、ポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム等のポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテルリン酸塩;ジ−2−エチルヘキシルスルホコハク酸ナトリウム等の長鎖スルホコハク酸塩;N−ラウロイルグルタミン酸モノナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸アルギニン、N−ステアロイルグルタミン酸ナトリウム、N−ミリストイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウム等の長鎖N−アシルグルタミン酸塩などが挙げられる。これらのうち、炭素数12〜24の脂肪酸塩、脂肪酸アミドスルホン酸塩、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテルリン酸塩、長鎖N−アシルグルタミン酸塩が好ましく、N−ステアロイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸アルギニン、ポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテルリン酸ナトリウムがより好ましい。 In addition, among the component (D), examples of the ionic surfactant include an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, and an amphoteric surfactant. Examples of the anionic surfactant include fatty acid salts having 12 to 24 carbon atoms such as sodium laurate, potassium palmitate and arginine stearate; alkyl sulfate salts such as sodium lauryl sulfate and potassium lauryl sulfate; polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate Alkyl ether sulfate ester salts such as triethanolamine; N-acyl sarcosine salts such as sodium lauroyl sarcosine; fatty acid amide sulfonates such as sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine and sodium N-myristoyl-N-methyltaurine; mono Alkyl phosphates such as sodium stearyl phosphate; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as sodium polyoxyethylene oleyl ether sodium and polyoxyethylene stearyl ether sodium phosphate Long-chain sulfosuccinate such as sodium di-2-ethylhexylsulfosuccinate; monosodium N-lauroyl glutamate, sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, arginine N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, sodium N-stearoyl glutamate And long-chain N-acyl glutamates such as sodium N-myristoyl-L-glutamate. Of these, fatty acid salts having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, fatty acid amide sulfonates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates, and long-chain N-acyl glutamates are preferred, and N-stearoyl-N-methyl taurate sodium, N- Stearoyl-L-glutamate arginine and sodium polyoxyethylene stearyl ether phosphate are more preferred.
また、カチオン界面活性剤としては、第4級アンモニウム塩が好ましく、たとえば、塩化ステアリウムトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ラウリルトリメチルアンモニウム等のアルキルトリメチルアンモニウム塩;ジアルキルジメチルアンモニウム、トリアルキルメチルアンモニウム塩、アルキルアミン塩などが挙げられる。 The cationic surfactant is preferably a quaternary ammonium salt, for example, an alkyltrimethylammonium salt such as stearium trimethylammonium chloride or lauryltrimethylammonium chloride; a dialkyldimethylammonium salt, a trialkylmethylammonium salt, an alkylamine salt, etc. Is mentioned.
さらに、両性界面活性剤としては、たとえば、アルキルジメチルアミンオキシド、アルキルカルボキシベタイン、アルキルスルホベタイン、アミドアミノ酸塩、アルキルアミドプロピルベタインが挙げられ、好ましくはアルキルアミドプロピルベタインである。 Further, examples of the amphoteric surfactant include alkyl dimethylamine oxide, alkyl carboxy betaine, alkyl sulfo betaine, amide amino acid salt, and alkyl amide propyl betaine, and alkyl amide propyl betaine is preferable.
本実施形態で用いる成分(D)の化合物のうち、スフィンゴシン塩類とは、スフィンゴシン類と酸性物質とから構成されるものである。スフィンゴシン類としては、天然由来のスフィンゴシン類または同構造の合成物、およびその誘導体(以下、天然型スフィンゴシンと記載する。)またはスフィンゴシン構造を有する擬似型スフィンゴシン類(以下、擬似型スフィンゴシンと記載する。)が好ましい。 Among the compounds of component (D) used in the present embodiment, sphingosine salts are composed of sphingosines and acidic substances. As sphingosines, naturally occurring sphingosines or synthetic products having the same structure, and derivatives thereof (hereinafter referred to as natural sphingosines) or pseudo-sphingosines having a sphingosine structure (hereinafter referred to as pseudo-sphingosines). ) Is preferred.
天然型スフィンゴシンとして、具体的には、天然のスフィンゴシン、ジヒドロスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシン、スフィンガジエニン、デヒドロスフィンゴシン、デヒドロフィトスフィンゴシン、およびこれらのN−アルキル体(たとえばN−メチル体)等が挙げられる。これらのスフィンゴシンとしては天然型(D(+)体)の光学活性体を用いても、非天然型(L(−)体)の光学活性体を用いても、さらに天然型と非天然型の混合物を用いてもよい。上記化合物の相対立体配置は、天然型の立体配置のものでも、それ以外の非天然型の立体配置のものでもよく、また、これらの混合物によるものでもよい。さらに、PHYTOSPHINGOSINE(INCI名;8th Edition)および次式で表わされるものが好ましい。 Specific examples of natural sphingosine include natural sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine, sphingadienin, dehydrosphingosine, dehydrophytosphingosine, and N-alkyl isomers thereof (for example, N-methyl). . These sphingosines may be either natural (D (+)) optically active, non-natural (L (-)) optically active, natural or unnatural. Mixtures may be used. The relative configuration of the above compound may be a natural configuration, a non-natural configuration other than that, or a mixture thereof. Further, PHYTOSPHINGOSINE (INCI name: 8th Edition) and those represented by the following formula are preferable.
これらは、天然からの抽出物および合成物のいずれでもよく、市販のものを用いることができる。天然型スフィンゴシンの市販のものとしては、たとえば、D-Sphingosine(4-Sphingenine)(SIGMA-ALDRICH社製)、DS-phytosphingosine(DOOSAN社製)、phytosphingosine(コスモファーム社製)が挙げられる。 These may be any of natural extracts and synthetic products, and commercially available products can be used. Examples of commercially available natural sphingosine include D-Sphingosine (4-Sphingenine) (manufactured by SIGMA-ALDRICH), DS-phytosphingosine (manufactured by DOOSAN), and phytosphingosine (manufactured by Cosmo Farm).
擬似型スフィンゴシンの具体例として、下記式で表される擬似型スフィンゴシン(i)〜(iv)、および1−(2−ヒドロキシエチルアミノ)−3−イソステアリルオキシ−2−プロパノールが挙げられる。 Specific examples of pseudo-sphingosine include pseudo-sphingosine (i) to (iv) represented by the following formula, and 1- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -3-isostearyloxy-2-propanol.
スフィンゴシン類としては、天然型のスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシンおよび擬似型スフィンゴシンからなる群から選択される1種以上が好ましく、擬似型スフィンゴシンがより好ましく、上記式で表される擬似型スフィンゴシン(ii)、1−(2−ヒドロキシエチルアミノ)−3−イソステアリルオキシ−2−プロパノールがさらに好ましい。 The sphingosine is preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of natural sphingosine, phytosphingosine and pseudo-sphingosine, more preferably pseudo-sphingosine, and pseudo-sphingosine (ii), 1 More preferred is-(2-hydroxyethylamino) -3-isostearyloxy-2-propanol.
これらの天然型のスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシン、擬似型スフィンゴシンと塩を構成する酸性物質としては、グルタミン酸、アスパラギン酸等の酸性アミノ酸;リン酸、塩酸等の無機酸;酢酸等のモノカルボン酸;コハク酸等のジカルボン酸;クエン酸、乳酸、リンゴ酸等のオキシカルボン酸などが挙げられる。これらの中で、天然型のスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシン、または擬似型スフィンゴシン(好ましくは擬似型スフィンゴシン(ii)、1−(2−ヒドロキシエチルアミノ)−3−イソステアリルオキシ−2−プロパノール)のコハク酸塩、乳酸塩およびグルタミン酸塩からなる群から選択される1種以上が好ましく、より好ましくは、天然型のスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシン、または擬似型スフィンゴシンのグルタミン酸塩である。 Acidic substances that constitute salts with these natural sphingosine, phytosphingosine, and pseudo-sphingosine include acidic amino acids such as glutamic acid and aspartic acid; inorganic acids such as phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid; monocarboxylic acids such as acetic acid; succinic acid And dicarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid and malic acid. Among these, succinic acid of natural sphingosine, phytosphingosine, or pseudo-sphingosine (preferably pseudo-sphingosine (ii), 1- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -3-isostearyloxy-2-propanol) One or more selected from the group consisting of salts, lactates and glutamates are preferred, more preferably natural sphingosine, phytosphingosine, or pseudo-sphingosine glutamate.
成分(D)としては、成分(A)、(B)および(C)と組み合わせてα−ゲル構造を形成させる観点から、アニオン界面活性剤、スフィンゴシン塩類が好ましく、少ない量で安定な乳化物が得られる観点から、N−ステアロイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム、ポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸アルギニン、フィトスフィンゴシンのグルタミン酸塩、擬似型スフィンゴシンのグルタミン酸塩がより好ましい。 Component (D) is preferably an anionic surfactant or sphingosine salt from the viewpoint of forming an α-gel structure in combination with components (A), (B) and (C), and a stable emulsion in a small amount. From the viewpoint of obtaining, sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine, sodium polyoxyethylene stearyl ether phosphate, arginine N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, glutamate of phytosphingosine, and glutamate of pseudo-sphingosine are more preferable.
成分(D)は、皮膚化粧料中に1種または2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、抗老化効果を向上させる観点、指どまり感、塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じおよび保存安定性を向上させる観点から、皮膚化粧料中の含有量は、皮膚化粧料全体に対して好ましくは0.05質量%以上であり、0.1質量%以上がより好ましく、0.15質量%以上がさらに好ましく、0.3質量%以上がさらにより好ましく、また、伸ばしやすさおよび保存安定性を向上させる観点から、好ましくは5質量%以下であり、3質量%以下がより好ましく、2.2質量%以下がさらに好ましく、0.8質量%以下がさらにより好ましい。また、成分(D)の含有量は、皮膚化粧料全体に対して好ましくは0.05〜5質量%であり、0.1〜3質量%がより好ましく、0.15〜2.2質量%がさらに好ましく、0.3〜0.8質量%がさらにより好ましい。なお、成分(D)が、イオン性界面活性剤およびスフィンゴシン塩類である場合、皮膚化粧料中のこれらの成分の含有量は酸換算の質量を示す。以下、成分(D)の質量を示す場合も同様である。 Component (D) can be used alone or in combination of two or more in skin cosmetics. From the viewpoint of improving the anti-aging effect, the feeling of tightness, and the feeling that the skin after application is covered with cosmetics. From the viewpoint of improving storage stability, the content in the skin cosmetic is preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.15% by mass relative to the entire skin cosmetic. % By mass or more is more preferable, 0.3% by mass or more is more preferable, and from the viewpoint of improving ease of stretching and storage stability, it is preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, 2.2 mass% or less is further more preferable, and 0.8 mass% or less is further more preferable. In addition, the content of the component (D) is preferably 0.05 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 3% by mass, and 0.15 to 2.2% by mass with respect to the entire skin cosmetic. Is more preferable, and 0.3-0.8 mass% is still more preferable. In addition, when a component (D) is an ionic surfactant and sphingosine salts, content of these components in skin cosmetics shows the mass of acid conversion. Hereinafter, the same applies to the case of indicating the mass of the component (D).
本実施形態において、皮膚化粧料中の成分(A)、(B)、(C)および(D)の合計含有量は、抗老化効果を向上させる観点、指どまり感および塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じを高める観点から、皮膚化粧料全体に対して好ましくは1.5質量%以上であり、2質量%以上がより好ましく、3質量%以上がさらに好ましく、また、伸ばしやすさを向上させる観点から、好ましくは22質量%以下であり、16質量%以下がより好ましく、6.5質量%以下がさらに好ましい。また、成分(A)、(B)、(C)および(D)の合計含有量は、皮膚化粧料全体に対して好ましくは1.5〜22質量%であり、2〜16質量%がより好ましく、3〜6.5質量%がさらに好ましい。 In the present embodiment, the total content of the components (A), (B), (C) and (D) in the skin cosmetic is such that the anti-aging effect is improved, the feeling of finger tightness and the skin after application are familiar. From the viewpoint of enhancing the feeling of being covered with cosmetics, it is preferably 1.5% by mass or more, more preferably 2% by mass or more, still more preferably 3% by mass or more, and is easy to stretch. From the viewpoint of improving the thickness, it is preferably 22% by mass or less, more preferably 16% by mass or less, and further preferably 6.5% by mass or less. The total content of the components (A), (B), (C) and (D) is preferably 1.5 to 22% by mass, more preferably 2 to 16% by mass with respect to the entire skin cosmetic. Preferably, 3 to 6.5% by mass is more preferable.
成分(E)は、水である。水の含有量は、たとえば皮膚化粧料中の水以外の成分を除いた残部とすることができる。 Ingredient (E) is water. The water content can be, for example, the remainder excluding components other than water in the skin cosmetic.
本実施形態において、皮膚化粧料が成分(A)〜(E)を含むとき、成分(A)〜(E)として上述した成分のそれぞれの好ましい成分、および好ましい含有量を組み合わせるのが、より好ましい。さらに好ましくは、成分(A)がモノベヘン酸グリセリルまたはモノセチルグリセリルエーテルであって、成分(B)がセタノールであって、成分(C)がN−(ヘキサデシロキシヒドロキシプロピル)−N−ヒドロキシエチルヘキサデカナミドであって、成分(D)がステアロイルグルタミン酸塩またはスフィンゴシン塩類である組み合わせである。 In this embodiment, when skin cosmetics contain component (A)-(E), it is more preferable to combine each preferable component of the component mentioned above as component (A)-(E), and preferable content. . More preferably, component (A) is glyceryl monobehenate or monocetyl glyceryl ether, component (B) is cetanol, and component (C) is N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethyl. Hexadecanamide, a combination in which component (D) is stearoyl glutamate or sphingosine salts.
本実施形態の皮膚化粧料は、さらに、前述したもの以外の油性成分を含有することができる。たとえば、流動パラフィン、スクワラン、ワセリン等の炭化水素油;セチルジメチルブチルエーテル、エチレングリコールジオクチルエーテル、グリセロールモノオレイルエーテル等のエーテル油;ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸ブチル、アジピン酸ジ−2−エチルヘキシル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、トリオクタノイン等のエステル油;ステアリン酸、ベヘン酸、イソミリスチン酸等の高級脂肪酸;ジメチルポリシロキサン、環状ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、アミノ変性シリコーン、カルボキシ変性シリコーン、アルコール変性シリコーン、アルキル変性シリコーン、ポリエーテル変性シリコーン、フッ素変性シリコーン等のシリコーン油;パーフルオロアルキルエチルリン酸、パーフルオロアルキルポリオキシエチレンリン酸、パーフルオロポリエーテル、ポリテトラフルオロエチレン等のフッ素系油などが挙げられる。これらの油性成分の含有量は、皮膚化粧料全体に対して0〜20質量%であるのが好ましい。 The skin cosmetic of this embodiment can further contain an oily component other than those described above. For example, hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane and petrolatum; ether oils such as cetyldimethylbutyl ether, ethylene glycol dioctyl ether and glycerol monooleyl ether; octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, di-2 adipate -Ester oils such as ethylhexyl, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, and trioctanoin; higher fatty acids such as stearic acid, behenic acid, and isomyristic acid; dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, amino-modified silicone, carboxy Silicone oil such as modified silicone, alcohol-modified silicone, alkyl-modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone, fluorine-modified silicone; B alkyl ethyl phosphate, perfluoroalkyl polyoxyethylene phosphoric acid, a perfluoropolyether, such as fluorine-based oils such as polytetrafluoroethylene. The content of these oily components is preferably 0 to 20% by mass with respect to the entire skin cosmetic.
また、本実施形態の皮膚化粧料は、通常の化粧料に用いられる有効成分や添加剤、たとえば、エタノール等の炭素数1〜6の1価のアルコール;エチレングリコール、ジエチレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、ポリプロピレングリコール、1,3−ブチレングリコール、グリセリン等の多価アルコール;アミノ酸、ペプチド、および、トリメチルグリシン、N−アミジノ−L−プロリン等のアミノ酸誘導体;アスコルビン酸、ニコチン酸アミド、ニコチン酸等の水溶性ビタミン類;オウバクエキス、カンゾウエキス、アロエエキス、スギナエキス、茶エキス、キューカンバーエキス、チョウジエキス、ニンジンエキス、ハマメリス抽出液、プラセンタエキス、酵母エキス、海藻エキス、マロニエエキス、ユズエキス、レモンエキス、アスナロエキス、ローヤルゼリーエキス、ユーカリエキス、チューベロース多糖体、アスナロ抽出液、米ぬか抽出液等の動・植物抽出液;水酸化カリウム、水酸化ナトリウム、トリエタノールアミン、炭酸ナトリウム等の塩基;クエン酸、酒石酸、乳酸、リン酸、コハク酸、アジピン酸等の酸;カルボキシビニルポリマー、アルギン酸ナトリウム、カラギーナン、カルボキシメチルセルロース、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、グアーガム、キサンタンガム、カルボキシメチルキトサン、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム、オキサゾリン変性シリコーン、N,N−ジメチルアミノエチルメタクリル酸ジエチル硫酸塩・N,N−ジメチルアクリルアミド・ジメタクリル酸ポリエチレングリコール共重合体等の増粘剤;コハク酸2−(2−ヒドロキシエトキシ)エチルグアニジン等の保湿剤;フェノキシエタノール、パラオキシ安息香酸メチル等の防腐剤;香料などであって、前述した成分以外のものを含有することもできる。 Moreover, the skin cosmetic of this embodiment is an active ingredient and additive used for normal cosmetics, for example, C1-C6 monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol; ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol Polyhydric alcohols such as dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and glycerin; amino acids, peptides, and amino acid derivatives such as trimethylglycine and N-amidino-L-proline; ascorbic acid, nicotinamide, Water-soluble vitamins such as nicotinic acid; Abou extract, licorice extract, aloe extract, horsetail extract, tea extract, cucumber extract, clove extract, carrot extract, hamamelis extract, placenta extract, yeast extract, seaweed extract , Marronnier extract, yuzu extract, lemon extract, asunaro extract, royal jelly extract, eucalyptus extract, tuberose polysaccharide, asunaro extract, rice bran extract, etc .; plant hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, carbonate Bases such as sodium; acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, phosphoric acid, succinic acid and adipic acid; carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium alginate, carrageenan, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, guar gum, xanthan gum, carboxymethylchitosan, sodium hyaluronate , Oxazoline-modified silicone, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate diethyl sulfate / N, N-dimethylacrylamide / polymethacrylate glycol glycol copolymer Thickeners; moisturizers such as 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) ethylguanidine succinate; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and methyl paraoxybenzoate; fragrances, etc. it can.
本実施形態の皮膚化粧料は、通常の方法により製造することができる。たとえば、成分(A)〜(D)(油性成分を含む場合は、成分(A)〜(D)および油性成分)を含む油相成分を加熱撹拌し、溶解させた後、加熱した成分(E)を含む水相成分を混合し、その後撹拌しながら冷却することにより、製造することができる。
また、成分(D)がイオン性界面活性剤およびスフィンゴシン塩類である場合、イオン性界面活性剤およびスフィンゴシン塩類として配合してもよいし、たとえば成分(D')として中和前の酸を油相成分として配合し、水相成分に塩基を配合して、水相と油相との混合により中和させて成分(D)としてもよい。
The skin cosmetic of the present embodiment can be produced by a normal method. For example, an oil phase component including components (A) to (D) (in the case of including an oil component, components (A) to (D) and an oil component) is heated and stirred, dissolved, and then heated (E ) Containing the aqueous phase component, followed by cooling with stirring to produce the product.
Further, when the component (D) is an ionic surfactant and a sphingosine salt, the component (D) may be blended as an ionic surfactant and a sphingosine salt. It is good also as a component (D) by mix | blending as a component, mix | blending a base with a water phase component, and neutralizing by mixing a water phase and an oil phase.
以上により得られる皮膚化粧料は、α−ゲル(α型結晶)であり、結晶(γ型結晶)の析出が抑制される。α−ゲルは、X線による構造解析により、確認することができる。α型構造は六方晶系のことであり、親油基が親水基層の面に対して直角に配向しており、Bragg角21〜23°付近に鋭い一本の回折ピークが現れるのが特徴である。 The skin cosmetic obtained as described above is α-gel (α-type crystal), and precipitation of crystals (γ-type crystal) is suppressed. The α-gel can be confirmed by structural analysis by X-ray. The α-type structure is a hexagonal system, and the lipophilic group is oriented perpendicular to the surface of the hydrophilic base layer, and a sharp single diffraction peak appears in the vicinity of a Bragg angle of 21 to 23 °. is there.
本実施形態の皮膚化粧料は、伸びの良さを高める点から、25℃における粘度が、1000mPa・s〜300000mPa・sであるのが好ましく、2500mPa・s〜100000mPa・sであるのがより好ましく、5000mPa・s〜70000mPa・sであるのがさらに好ましい。
なお、本実施形態において、粘度は、たとえばVISCOMETER TVB−10(東機産業社製)により測定される。そして、粘度は、低粘度を測定できる条件から測定し、その条件で粘度の上限を超えた場合は、次に高粘度を測定できる条件に変更して測定する。測定条件の具体例を以下に示す。
・粘度250mPa・s以上2500mPa・s未満:ローターNo.M2、回転数12rpm、
・粘度2500mPa・s以上20000mPa・s未満:ローターNo.M3、回転数6rpm、
・粘度20000mPa・s以上160000mPa・s未満:ローターNo.T−B、回転数5rpm
・粘度160000mPa・s以上400000mPa・s未満:ローターNo.T−C、回転数5rpm
The skin cosmetic of the present embodiment preferably has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 1000 mPa · s to 300,000 mPa · s, more preferably 2500 mPa · s to 100,000 mPa · s, from the viewpoint of improving the elongation. More preferably, it is 5000 mPa · s to 70000 mPa · s.
In the present embodiment, the viscosity is measured by, for example, VISCOMETER TVB-10 (manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.). And a viscosity is measured from the conditions which can measure a low viscosity, and when it exceeds the upper limit of the viscosity on the conditions, it changes to the conditions which can measure a high viscosity next, and is measured. Specific examples of measurement conditions are shown below.
Viscosity: 250 mPa · s or more and less than 2500 mPa · s: Rotor No. M2, rotation speed 12rpm,
Viscosity 2500 mPa · s or more and less than 20000 mPa · s: Rotor No. M3, 6 rpm,
Viscosity: 20000 mPa · s or more and less than 160000 mPa · s: Rotor No. TB, 5 rpm
Viscosity: 160,000 mPa · s or more and less than 400,000 mPa · s: Rotor No. TC, 5rpm
(実施例1、2、比較例1および2)
ショウキョウエキスおよびアセチルヘキサペプチドを表1に示す濃度で含むエラスターゼ阻害剤のエラスターゼ活性抑制効果について評価した。ショウキョウエキスは以下の製造例1に記載の方法で調製した。また、アセチルヘキサペプチドとしては、Lipotec社により製造され、Centerchem社(Norwalk、CT)から購入できるArgireline(登録商標)を用いた。
(Examples 1 and 2, Comparative Examples 1 and 2)
The elastase activity inhibitory effect of the elastase inhibitor containing the ginger extract and the acetyl hexapeptide at the concentrations shown in Table 1 was evaluated. The ginger extract was prepared by the method described in Production Example 1 below. As the acetyl hexapeptide, Argireline (registered trademark) manufactured by Lipotec and purchased from Centerchem (Norwalk, CT) was used.
(製造例1)ショウキョウエキスの製造
ショウキョウを細切し、その50gに50vol%エタノール500mLを加え、室温で2日間浸漬した。これを濾過して得られたショウキョウ抽出液をショウキョウエキスとした。得られたショウキョウエキスを濃縮したところ、その蒸発残分は2.59gであった。
(Manufacture example 1) Manufacture of a pepper extract A shrimp was shredded, 50 vol% ethanol 500mL was added to 50 g, and it was immersed at room temperature for 2 days. A Tokyo extract obtained by filtering this was used as a Tokyo extract. When the obtained ginger extract was concentrated, the evaporation residue was 2.59 g.
(試験例1)培養ヒト繊維芽細胞のエラスターゼ(NEP)活性抑制試験
ダルベッコ改変イーグル培地(Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium:DMEM)を用いて、2.5×104個の真皮線維芽細胞を96穴プレートに播種した。播種の翌日に、製造例1のショウキョウエキスとアセチルヘキサペプチドのサンプルを培地中で表1の評価濃度となるように添加し、紫外線を照射した。48時間後、培養上清を除き、各ウェルに10μLのBuffer A(0.1M Tris(:tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane)−HCl、pH7.2、1% NP−40、0.01% SDS(:Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate))と30μLのBuffer B(0.3M NaCl、0.1M MES(:2-Morpholinoethanesulfonic acid, monohydrate))を添加して、振動を与えながら4℃でインキュベートし、細胞を溶解した。1時間後、各ウェルにBuffer Bで希釈し60μLとした上記各例のサンプルを、培地中で表1の評価濃度になるように添加し、さらに2μLの10mM NEP蛍光基質を添加して37℃でインキュベートした。1時間後、各ウェルに2μLの100μM Phosphoramidonと2μLの25mU/mL Leucine aminopeptidase Mを添加して、37℃でさらにインキュベートした。15分後、プレートリーダーを用いて励起波長:355nm、蛍光波長:430nmの蛍光を計測し、中性エンドペプチダーゼ(Neutral Endopeptidase:NEP)活性を測定した。結果を表1に示す。
(Test Example 1) Elastase (NEP) Inhibition Test of Cultured Human Fibroblasts Using Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium (DMEM), 2.5 × 10 4 dermal fibroblasts in a 96-well plate Sowing. On the day after sowing, the sample of the yeast extract and acetyl hexapeptide of Production Example 1 were added to the evaluation concentrations shown in Table 1 in the medium and irradiated with ultraviolet rays. After 48 hours, the culture supernatant was removed, and 10 μL of Buffer A (0.1 M Tris (: tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane) -HCl, pH 7.2, 1% NP-40, 0.01% SDS (: Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate)) and 30 μL of Buffer B (0.3 M NaCl, 0.1 M MES (: 2-Morpholinoethanesulfonic acid, monohydrate)) were added and incubated at 4 ° C. with shaking to lyse the cells. After 1 hour, the sample of each of the above examples diluted to 60 μL with Buffer B was added to each well to the evaluation concentration shown in Table 1 in the medium, and 2 μL of 10 mM NEP fluorescent substrate was added to the well. Incubated with. After 1 hour, 2 μL of 100 μM Phosphoramidon and 2 μL of 25 mU / mL Leucine aminopeptidase M were added to each well and further incubated at 37 ° C. After 15 minutes, the fluorescence at an excitation wavelength of 355 nm and a fluorescence wavelength of 430 nm was measured using a plate reader, and neutral endopeptidase (NEP) activity was measured. The results are shown in Table 1.
表1より、実施例1および2においては、ショウキョウエキスとアセチルヘキサペプチドとを組み合わせて用いているため、それぞれ、比較例1および2に比べてNEP活性が抑制されていることがわかる。 From Table 1, it can be seen that in Examples 1 and 2, the NEP activity is suppressed as compared with Comparative Examples 1 and 2 because the combination of the yeast extract and the acetylhexapeptide is used.
(実施例3〜7および比較例3〜4)
表2〜表4に示す組成の水中油型乳化組成物を製造して各例の皮膚化粧料とした。実施例3〜6、比較例3および4で得られた皮膚化粧料について、X線による構造解折によりα−ゲル構造の形成の有無を評価した。また、実施例3、比較例3および4で得られた皮膚化粧料について、しわ改善効果を評価した。これらの評価結果を表2および表3に併せて示す。
(Examples 3-7 and Comparative Examples 3-4)
The oil-in-water emulsion compositions having the compositions shown in Tables 2 to 4 were produced and used as skin cosmetics for each example. The skin cosmetics obtained in Examples 3 to 6 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4 were evaluated for the presence or absence of formation of an α-gel structure by structural unfolding with X-rays. The skin cosmetics obtained in Example 3 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4 were evaluated for wrinkle improvement effects. These evaluation results are also shown in Table 2 and Table 3.
(皮膚化粧料の製造方法)
成分(A)〜(D')を含む油相成分を、プロペラ撹拌下(300rpm)で80〜95℃で加熱混合して溶解した。これに、80℃に加熱混合した成分(E)を含む水相成分を加えて乳化した後、プロペラ撹拌(300rpm)をしながら25℃に冷却して、皮膚化粧料を得た。得られた化粧料では、成分(D')は、L−アルギニン、水酸化カリウムの全部または一部で中和されて、成分(D)のN−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸塩になっていると考えられる。
(Method for manufacturing skin cosmetics)
The oil phase components including the components (A) to (D ′) were dissolved by heating and mixing at 80 to 95 ° C. with propeller stirring (300 rpm). A water phase component containing the component (E) heated and mixed at 80 ° C. was added thereto to emulsify, and then cooled to 25 ° C. with propeller stirring (300 rpm) to obtain a skin cosmetic. In the obtained cosmetic, the component (D ′) is neutralized with all or part of L-arginine and potassium hydroxide to become N-stearoyl-L-glutamate of the component (D). Conceivable.
実施例7(処方例)では、表4に記載の成分をすべて合わせて80℃に加熱混合し溶解させ後、プロペラ撹拌(300rpm)をしながら25℃に冷却して、化粧水を得る。 In Example 7 (formulation example), all the components listed in Table 4 were combined and heated to 80 ° C., dissolved, and then cooled to 25 ° C. with propeller stirring (300 rpm) to obtain a lotion.
(評価方法)
(1)しわ改善効果評価
しわに悩みのある40〜50歳代の女性16名(香粧品学会しわグレード)により、各化粧料0.15mLを毎日朝・夜の2回、半顔ずつに8週間塗布した。試験開始前と8週連用後に、素肌(洗顔し、化粧料を除去した状態)での目尻のしわの状態を、気温20〜22℃/湿度45〜55%の環境下(香粧品学会シワガイドライン準拠)で、しわグレード表に基づきスコア化した。評価は化粧品開発に従事し、定常的にしわ評価を行っている専門評価者2名でおこない、0.5刻みで評価した。このしわスコアについて、16名のパネラーの試験前から8週連用後の変化を平均し得られた、平均しわスコア変化量(Δ)を以下の基準で判断し、しわ改善効果を評価した。
改善:しわスコア変化量(Δ)がΔ≦−0.4
やや改善:しわスコア変化量(Δ)が−0.4<Δ≦−0.2
変化なし:しわスコア変化量(Δ)が−0.2<Δ≦0
悪化:しわスコア変化量(Δ)が0<Δ
(Evaluation method)
(1) Evaluation of wrinkle improvement effect 16 females in their 40s to 50s who are worried about wrinkles (Cosmetic Society Wrinkle Grade), each cosmetic 0.15mL twice daily in the morning and evening, 8 per half face Applied for a week. Before starting the test and after 8 weeks of continuous wrinkles on the bare skin (washed face and cosmetics removed) in an environment with a temperature of 20-22 ° C / humidity of 45-55%. Compliant) and scored based on the wrinkle grade table. The evaluation was carried out by two professional evaluators engaged in cosmetic development and regularly evaluating wrinkles, and evaluated in 0.5 increments. About this wrinkle score, the average wrinkle score change amount (Δ) obtained by averaging the changes after 16 weeks of continuous use from 16 panelists was judged based on the following criteria, and the wrinkle improvement effect was evaluated.
Improvement: Wrinkle score change amount (Δ) is Δ ≦ −0.4
Slight improvement: wrinkle score change (Δ) is −0.4 <Δ ≦ −0.2
No change: wrinkle score change amount (Δ) is −0.2 <Δ ≦ 0
Deterioration: Wrinkle score change amount (Δ) is 0 <Δ
X線による構造解折:得られた皮膚化粧料について、2θ=10〜30°の広角X線回折ピークより、WilsonとOttの方法(Wilson,D.A. and Ott,E., J.Chem.Phys., 2, 231-238(1934))に従い、結晶構造を決定した。表2および表3中、結晶構造についての評価は以下の基準で示した。
A:α型構造が確認された。
B:α型構造が確認されない。
Structural analysis by X-ray: From the wide-angle X-ray diffraction peak of 2θ = 10-30 °, the method of Wilson and Ott (Wilson, DA and Ott, E., J. Chem. Phys. , 2, 231-238 (1934)), the crystal structure was determined. In Tables 2 and 3, the evaluation of the crystal structure is shown by the following criteria.
A: α-type structure was confirmed.
B: α-type structure is not confirmed.
表2および表3より、実施例3〜6の皮膚化粧料は、いずれもα−ゲル構造であることが確認された。また、表2より、ショウキョウエキスおよびアセチルヘキサペプチドのいずれか一方を含む比較例3および4では、いずれもしわ改善効果が認められなかったのに対し、ショウキョウエキスおよびアセチルヘキサペプチドを組み合わせて用いた実施例3の皮膚化粧料ではしわ改善効果が認められた。 From Table 2 and Table 3, it was confirmed that all of the skin cosmetics of Examples 3 to 6 have an α-gel structure. Further, from Table 2, in Comparative Examples 3 and 4 containing either one of the yeast extract and the acetyl hexapeptide, no wrinkle improving effect was observed, but in combination with the yeast extract and the acetyl hexapeptide. The skin cosmetic of Example 3 used showed a wrinkle improving effect.
Claims (6)
(A)水酸基を2個以上有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が220〜450、有機性値が300〜1000である有機化合物、
(B)水酸基を1個有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が100〜200、有機性値が280〜700である有機化合物、
(C)セラミド類、
(D)ポリオキシエチレン基を有するHLB10以上の非イオン界面活性剤、イオン性界面活性剤およびスフィンゴシン塩類からなる群から選ばれる1種以上の化合物、および
(E)水
をさらに含有し、前記皮膚化粧料全体に対する前記成分(A)、(B)、(C)および(D)の含有量の合計が、1.5〜22質量%である、請求項4または5に記載の皮膚化粧料。 The following components (A) to (E):
(A) An organic compound having two or more hydroxyl groups, an inorganic value of 220 to 450, and an organic value of 300 to 1000,
(B) an organic compound having one hydroxyl group and having an inorganic value of 100 to 200 and an organic value of 280 to 700;
(C) Ceramides,
(D) one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants having a polyoxyethylene group of HLB 10 or higher, ionic surfactants and sphingosine salts, and (E) water, The skin cosmetic according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the total content of the components (A), (B), (C) and (D) with respect to the entire cosmetic is 1.5 to 22% by mass.
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KR20200102920A (en) * | 2019-02-22 | 2020-09-01 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | Composition for inhibiting neurotransmitter secretion |
JP2020199467A (en) * | 2019-06-11 | 2020-12-17 | 花王株式会社 | Production method of emulsion composition |
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JP2001058920A (en) * | 1999-08-20 | 2001-03-06 | Kao Corp | Cosmetic |
JP2004323400A (en) * | 2003-04-23 | 2004-11-18 | Mikimoto Pharmaceut Co Ltd | Skin care preparation for external use |
JP2007022997A (en) * | 2005-07-21 | 2007-02-01 | Kao Corp | Emulsified composition |
JP2013126969A (en) * | 2011-12-16 | 2013-06-27 | Byherb Co Ltd | Composition for cosmetic for improvement of plain wrinkle, containing natural extract |
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JP2001058920A (en) * | 1999-08-20 | 2001-03-06 | Kao Corp | Cosmetic |
JP2004323400A (en) * | 2003-04-23 | 2004-11-18 | Mikimoto Pharmaceut Co Ltd | Skin care preparation for external use |
JP2007022997A (en) * | 2005-07-21 | 2007-02-01 | Kao Corp | Emulsified composition |
JP2013126969A (en) * | 2011-12-16 | 2013-06-27 | Byherb Co Ltd | Composition for cosmetic for improvement of plain wrinkle, containing natural extract |
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KR20200102920A (en) * | 2019-02-22 | 2020-09-01 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | Composition for inhibiting neurotransmitter secretion |
KR102169116B1 (en) | 2019-02-22 | 2020-10-22 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | Composition for inhibiting neurotransmitter secretion |
JP2020199467A (en) * | 2019-06-11 | 2020-12-17 | 花王株式会社 | Production method of emulsion composition |
JP7482608B2 (en) | 2019-06-11 | 2024-05-14 | 花王株式会社 | Method for producing emulsion composition |
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