JP6423701B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic.

α-gel is a hydrated crystal structure and has a lamellar structure. Most of the stratum corneum intercellular lipids present in the outermost layer of the skin also have this α-gel structure. And it has the function of maintaining the softness and smooth appearance of the skin by suppressing the invasion of substances from the outside and the moisture transpiration from the inside as well as holding the moisture itself. . It is known that in the skin, the stratum corneum retains about 33% by mass of water in the form of bound water, and the stratum corneum intercellular lipid retains about 13% by weight of bound water.
Thus, since α-gel can retain moisture, application to cosmetics and the like has been studied.

  For example, Patent Document 1 describes that an emulsified composition containing a ceramide, a glycerin monofatty acid ester, a higher alcohol, an anionic surfactant, and the like forms an α-gel structure. It is described that an emulsified composition containing a ceramide, a glycerin monofatty acid ester, a higher alcohol, an anionic surfactant, and a specific polar oil forms an α-gel structure.

JP 2011-32265 A JP 2013-53146 A

However, when the emulsion composition of Patent Document 1 is applied to the skin and touched with the skin, a squeaky feeling was felt. Moreover, in patent document 2, although a squeak feeling is improved by combining a specific polar oil with the emulsion which has an alpha gel structure, compared with the skin when not applying cosmetics, it is smoother. It was not possible to improve the feeling of use such that a good feel was obtained, and there was an unnatural glossiness with a feeling like applying an oil to the skin after application.
Therefore, there has been a demand for a cosmetic that forms an α-gel structure, provides a smooth feel to the skin after application, and provides a natural gloss to the skin after application.
The present invention relates to a cosmetic that forms an α-gel and has excellent stability, a smooth feel can be obtained when the skin after application is touched with a finger, and the skin has a natural gloss.

  The present inventors combined specific glycerin monofatty acid ester or glycerin monoalkyl ether with higher alcohol, ceramides, diacylglutamic acid lysine salt, and water at a specific ratio, and when applied to the skin, -It has been found that it has a gel structure, is excellent in stability, has a smooth feel after application, and has a natural gloss feeling.

The present invention includes the following components (A), (B), (C), (D) and (E):
(A) 0.01 to 6% by mass of glycerin monofatty acid ester or glycerin monoalkyl ether derived from a linear fatty acid having 10 to 24 carbon atoms,
(B) 0.05 to 6% by mass of a higher alcohol having 8 to 20 carbon atoms,
(C) Ceramides 0.01-8% by mass,
(D) Diacyl glutamic acid lysine salt 0.01 to 1.5% by mass,
(E) Mass ratio of the total content of components (A), (B) and (C) with respect to the acid equivalent amount of component (D) [((A) + (B) + (C)) / (D)] is related with the cosmetics which are 1-220.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention forms an α-gel structure, suppresses crystallization of ceramide and stably contains it, and can smooth the skin after application, and further, gloss on the skin after application. A feeling can be obtained.

Examples of the glycerol mono fatty acid ester or glycerol monoalkyl ether derived from the linear fatty acid having 10 to 24 carbon atoms of the component (A) used in the present invention include glycerol monolaurate, glycerol monomyristate, and glycerol monopalmitin. Examples include acid esters, glycerol monostearate, glycerol monobehenate, glycerol monooleate, monocetyl glyceryl ether, and monostearyl glyceryl ether.
The number of carbon atoms of the fatty acid constituting the glycerin monofatty acid ester of the component (A) is preferably 12 to 24 from the viewpoint of suppressing the crystallization of ceramide by interaction with the components (B) and (D). 22 is more preferable.
In addition, the number of carbon atoms of the fatty acid constituting the glycerin monoalkyl ether of component (A) is preferably 12 to 24 from the viewpoint of suppressing crystallization of ceramide by interaction with components (B) and (D). 14-22 are more preferable and 16-18 are still more preferable.

  Component (A) can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and suppresses the crystallization of ceramide and improves the glossiness of the skin after application, so the content is in the total composition It is 0.01-6 mass%, 0.05-3.5 mass% is preferable, and 0.1-1.5 mass% is more preferable.

Component (B) used in the present invention is a higher alcohol having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and examples thereof include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol.
The carbon number of the higher alcohol is preferably from 10 to 20, more preferably from 12 to 20, and even more preferably from 14 to 18 from the viewpoint of suppressing crystallization of ceramide by interaction with the components (A) and (D). 16-18 are even more preferable.

  Component (B) can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and from the point of suppressing crystallization of ceramide and improving the glossiness of the skin after application, the content is in the total composition It is 0.05-6 mass%, 0.1-5 mass% is preferable, 0.5-3.5 mass% is more preferable, 0.5-1.8 mass% is further more preferable.

As the ceramides of component (C), (I) naturally-derived ceramides and / or (II) pseudo-ceramides are preferable, for example, ceramides described in JP2013-53146A are preferable.
(I) Specific examples of naturally-occurring ceramides (hereinafter referred to as natural ceramides) include ceramide types 1 to 7 (for example, FIG. 2 of J. Lipid Res., 24: 759 (1983), and J. Lipid. Res. ., 35: 2069 (1994), porcine and human ceramides described in FIG.
Furthermore, these N-alkyl bodies (for example, N-methyl body) are also included.

  These ceramides can be either natural or non-natural (D (-)) optically active or non-natural (L (+)) optically active. Mixtures may be used. The configuration of the compound may be a natural configuration, a non-natural configuration other than that, or a mixture thereof. Of these, compounds of CERAMIDE1, CERAMIDE2, CERAMIDE3, CERAMIDE5, CERAMIDE6II (hereinafter referred to as INCI, 8th Edition) and those represented by the following formula are preferable.

These may be natural extracts and / or synthetic products, and commercially available products may be used.
Such commercially available natural ceramides are Ceramide I, Ceramide III, Ceramide IIIA, Ceramide IIIB, Ceramide IIIC, Ceramide VI (above, Cosmo Farm), Ceramide TIC-001 (Takasago Inc.), CERAMIDE II (Quest International), DS-Ceramide VI, DS-CLA-Phytoceramide, Phytoceramide, DS-ceramide Y3S (DOOSAN), CERAMIDE2 (Cedama).

(II) As pseudo-ceramides, N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide, N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethyldecanamim represented by the following formula: N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) is preferable.

  The ceramide of component (C) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and from the point of sufficiently allowing component (C) to penetrate into the skin, the content is 0.01 to 8 mass%, preferably 0.05-5 mass%, more preferably 0.1-3 mass%.

The diacyl glutamic acid lysine salt of component (D) used in the present invention is used to suppress crystallization of ceramide by interaction with components (A) and (B).
As the diacylglutamic acid lysine salt, the acyl group preferably has 10 to 18 carbon atoms from the viewpoint of suppressing crystallization of ceramide by interaction with the components (A) and (B). More preferred.
Examples of these salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium, organic amine salts such as triethanolamine salt, and basic amino acid salts such as arginine. From the same point, alkali metal salts are preferable, Sodium salt is more preferred.
Component (D) includes dilauroyl glutamate lysine sodium, dimyristoyl glutamate lysine sodium, distearoyl glutamate lysine sodium, dilysate from the viewpoint of suppressing crystallization of ceramide by interaction with components (A) and (B). Noreoil glutamic acid sodium lysine and the like are preferable, and dilauroyl glutamic acid sodium ricin sodium is more preferable.

Diacyl glutamic acid lysine salt can be synthesized by reacting L-lysine hydrochloride with N-fatty acid acyl-L-glutamic acid anhydride.
Further, as a commercially available product of diacylglutamic acid lysine salt, for example, Perisea L-30 manufactured by Asahi Kasei Chemicals Corporation: trade name (dilauroylglutamate lysine sodium, effective content 29%, water 71%) and the like can be used.

  Component (D) can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and contained in terms of acid in terms of inhibiting crystallization of ceramide by interaction with components (A) and (B) The amount (hereinafter referred to as acid conversion amount) is 0.01 to 1.5% by mass in the total composition, preferably 0.02 to 1.2% by mass, and more preferably 0.05 to 1% by mass.

  In the present invention, the mass ratio of the total content of components (A), (B) and (C) to the acid equivalent of component (D) [((A) + (B) + (C)) / (D) ] Is from 1 to 220, preferably from 2 to 150, and more preferably from 3 to 45, from the viewpoint of suppressing crystallization of ceramide and improving the smoothness and glossiness of the skin after application.

In the present invention, the mass ratio [(A) / (D)] of the component (A) to the acid equivalent amount of the component (D) suppresses the crystallization of ceramide, and makes the skin smooth and glossy after application. From the point to improve, 0.1-80 are preferable, 0.3-40 are more preferable, and 1-12 are more preferable.
Moreover, the mass ratio [(B) / (D)] of the component (B) to the acid equivalent amount of the component (D) suppresses the crystallization of ceramide, and improves the smoothness and glossiness of the skin after application. From a point, 0.1-80 are preferable, 0.7-50 are more preferable, and 1-20 are more preferable.
Furthermore, the mass ratio [(C) / (D)] of the component (C) to the acid equivalent amount of the component (D) suppresses the crystallization of ceramide, and improves the smoothness and glossiness of the skin after application. From a point, 0.05-80 are preferable, 0.1-50 are more preferable, 0.1-35 are more preferable, and 1-25 are more preferable.
Further, the mass ratio [(A) / (B)] of the component (A) to the component (B) suppresses crystallization of ceramide and improves the smoothness and glossiness of the skin after application. 0.01-14 are preferable, 0.05-6 are more preferable, 0.2-3 are more preferable, and 0.2-1.5 are still more preferable.

  In this invention, 50-95 mass% is preferable in the whole composition, and, as for content of the water of a component (E), 60-90 mass% is more preferable.

The cosmetic of the present invention can further contain (F) a polyhydric alcohol, and can improve glossiness by interaction with the component (D).
The polyhydric alcohol is not limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics. For example, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, diglycerin, dipropylene glycol, molecular weight Examples include polyethylene glycol of 2000 or less. Among these, one or more selected from glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol are preferable from the viewpoint of improving glossiness by interaction with the component (D), and glycerin, 1,3-butylene. One or more selected from glycol is more preferable, and glycerin is more preferable.

  The polyhydric alcohol of the component (F) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is improved from the point of further improving the gloss feeling by interacting with the component (D). 5-20 mass% is preferable in a composition, and 7-15 mass% is more preferable.

  In addition to the above, the cosmetic of the present invention is a component used in normal cosmetics, for example, an oil that is liquid at 25 ° C., and a paste or wax-like fat or oil at 25 ° C. other than components (B) and (C) Nonionic surfactants other than (A), anionic surfactants other than component (D), cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, water-soluble polymers, extracts, bases, acids, ethanol, preservatives, A fragrance | flavor etc. can be contained.

The oil agent that is liquid at 25 ° C. means that the viscosity at 25 ° C. is 10,000 mPa · s or less. For example, hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, and squalane; vegetable oils such as olive oil and jojoba oil; dimethylpolysiloxane (methylpolysiloxane), cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, amino-modified silicone , Silicone oils such as carboxy-modified silicone, alcohol-modified silicone, alkyl-modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone, and fluorine-modified silicone; perfluoroalkylethyl phosphate, perfluoroalkylpolyoxyethylene phosphate, perfluoropolyether, polytetrafluoro Fluorine oils such as ethylene; polar oils such as alkyl-1,3-dimethylbutyl ether and neopentyl glycol dicaprate.
The liquid oil at 25 ° C. can be used alone or in combination of two or more. From the point of improving the smoothness and glossiness of the skin after coating, the content is 1% by mass in the total composition. The above is preferable, 2% by mass or more is more preferable, 3% by mass or more is more preferable, 20% by mass or less is preferable, 15% by mass or less is more preferable, 10% by mass or less is further preferable, and 6% by mass or less is still more preferable. preferable.

Examples of paste or waxy oils and fats other than the components (B) and (C) include hydrocarbon oils such as petrolatum; straight chain carbon number 10 to 22 such as stearic acid, behenic acid, myristic acid Higher fatty acids and the like.
A paste or wax-like oil and fat at 25 ° C. other than the components (B) and (C) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and improves the smoothness and glossiness of the skin after application. Therefore, the content is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, still more preferably 1% by mass or less, and more preferably 0.5% by mass or less. Further preferred.

As the nonionic surfactant other than the component (A), those having a polyoxyethylene group are preferable, the HLB is preferably 10 or more, and more preferably 12.5 to 15.5.
In the present invention, HLB is an index indicating a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance. In the present invention, a value calculated using the following equation by Oda and Teramura et al. Is used.

Examples of the nonionic surfactant other than the component (A) include polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, alkyl polyoxyethylene glyceryl, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether and the like. From the viewpoint of improvement, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate are preferable.
Nonionic surfactants other than the component (A) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is increased in the total composition from the viewpoint of improving stability and reducing stickiness. 0.1 mass% or more is preferable, 0.2 mass% or more is more preferable, 1 mass% or less is preferable, and 0.5 mass% or less is more preferable.

Examples of the anionic surfactant other than the component (D) include fatty acid salts derived from fatty acids having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, fatty acid amide sulfonates such as sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine, and polyoxyethylene lauryl. Examples thereof include polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphate salts such as sodium ether phosphate, long chain N-acyl glutamic acids such as N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid arginine, alkyl sulfate salts, and alkyl ether sulfate salts.
Anionic surfactants other than the component (D) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the combination with the component (D) improves the glossiness and stability of the skin after application. Therefore, in terms of acid, the content is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, further preferably 0.1% by mass or more, and 0.2% by mass in the total composition. The above is more preferable, 3% by mass or less is preferable, 2% by mass or less is more preferable, 1.5% by mass or less is further preferable, and 1% by mass or less is more preferable.

  The content of the cationic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant is preferably 1% by mass or less, more preferably 0.5% by mass or less, further preferably 0.1% by mass or less, and substantially 0% by mass in the total composition. Even more preferably.

Examples of the water-soluble polymer include carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium alginate, carrageenan, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, guar gum, xanthan gum, carboxymethyl chitosan, sodium hyaluronate, oxazoline-modified silicone, diethyl N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. Examples thereof include sulfates, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, and polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymers.
The water-soluble polymer can be used alone or in combination of two or more. From the viewpoint of improving the smoothness and glossiness of the skin after application, the content is 0.1 mass in the total composition. % Or more, more preferably 0.15% by mass or more, preferably 1% by mass or less, more preferably 0.8% by mass or less, and still more preferably 0.4% by mass or less.

Extracts include, for example, buckwheat extract, licorice extract, aloe extract, horsetail extract, tea extract, cucumber extract, clove extract, carrot extract, chammel extract, placenta extract, seaweed extract, maroni extract, chamomile extract, citron extract, clove Examples include extracts of animals and plants such as extracts, asunalo extracts, altea extracts, royal jelly extracts, eucalyptus extracts, brown algae extracts, asunaro extracts.
Examples of the base include potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, sodium carbonate, and examples of the acid include citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, and adipic acid.

  In the cosmetics of the present invention, the content of ethanol is preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 0.5% by mass or more in the total composition from the viewpoint of improving the spread of the skin cosmetics upon application to the skin. More preferably, it is preferably 6% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, and still more preferably 4% by mass or less.

  The cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a usual method. For example, components (A), (B), (C) are heated and mixed to prepare an oil phase, component (D) is dissolved in a part of (E), a surfactant phase is prepared, The surfactant phase and other components can be added to the phase, heated and mixed uniformly, and then cooled with stirring.

  The cosmetic of the present invention has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of preferably 1000 to 50000 mPa · s, more preferably 2000 to 40000 mPa · s, and more preferably 3000 to 30000 mPa · s from the viewpoint of improving the resistance to dripping during use. Is more preferable. The viscosity is measured using a TVB-10R type rotational viscometer (manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.). When the viscosity is in the range of 1000 mPa · s to less than 20000 mPa · s, rotor No. M3, 20000 mPa · s to 50000 mPa · s. In the range below s, all are values measured at a rotational speed of 6 rpm and 25 ° C. using rotor No. M4.

The cosmetic of the present invention is an α-gel (α-type crystal), and the α-gel can be confirmed by structural analysis using X-rays. The α-type structure is a hexagonal system, and the lipophilic group is oriented at right angles to the surface of the hydrophilic base layer, and a sharp diffraction peak appears at a Bragg angle of 21-23 °. is there.
The cosmetic of the present invention is suitable, for example, as a lotion, milky lotion, cream, gel or the like.

Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4
Cosmetics having the compositions shown in Table 1 were produced and evaluated for structural analysis by X-ray, stability, smoothness of the skin after application, and glossiness. The results are also shown in Table 1.

(Production method)
Water containing components (D), (E) and (F), wherein the oil phase containing components (A), (B) and (C) is heated and mixed at 80 to 90 ° C. and then heated to 80 to 90 ° C. The phases were added and mixed. Furthermore, it cooled to 25 degreeC, stirring, and obtained cosmetics.

(Evaluation method)
(1) Structural analysis by X-ray:
From the wide-angle X-ray diffraction peak of 2θ = 10-30 °, the method of Wilson and Ott (Wilson, DA and Ott, E., J. Chem. Phys., 2, 231-238 (1934) )) To determine the crystal structure. Evaluation of the crystal structure was shown by the following criteria.
A: α-type structure was confirmed.
B: α-type structure is not confirmed.

(2) Stability (crystal precipitation after 1 week at room temperature):
About each cosmetic manufactured 1 week after room temperature preservation | save, the presence or absence of the crystal | crystallization was confirmed by optical microscope observation under polarization | polarized-light, and visual observation. The presence or absence of crystals was evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: Crystals are not observed by optical microscope observation, and are not observed visually.
B: Crystals are slightly observed by optical microscope observation, and are not visually observed.
C: A small crystal is observed by observation with an optical microscope and is not visually observed.
D: Crystals are observed by optical microscope observation, and are also observed visually.

(3) Skin smoothness after application (measured value, Δμ):
On artificial leather (Okamoto Chemicals Co., Ltd., Celanu Back # 010), 1 mL of each cosmetic material was uniformly applied in a size of 3 cm × 8 cm. The artificial leather was attached to a tribogear (manufactured by Shinto Kagaku Co., Ltd., surface property measuring machine, TYPE: 14DR), and 5 minutes after applying the cosmetic, the dynamic friction coefficient was measured under the following conditions. The measured value is the value on the third slide from the start of measurement (μ (cosmetic application)), and the difference (Δμ) from the dynamic friction coefficient (μ (uncoated)) when cosmetic is not applied is obtained. , Evaluated the smoothness of the skin. In addition, it shows that friction is so low that (DELTA) micro is small and skin is smooth.
<Conditions>
・ Load 200g
・ Speed 2000 mm / sec
・ Measured with 5 slides (2.5 reciprocations) of 50 mm (Δμ) = (μ (cosmetics applied)) − (μ (not applied))

(4) Skin smoothness after application (sensory evaluation):
A professional panelist applied 0.2 g of each cosmetic material on the back of the hand so as to draw a circle with a finger, and evaluated the smoothness when the skin immediately after application was touched with a finger according to the following four criteria. The results are shown as the total value of the evaluations of three professional panelists.
4: Very smooth.
3: Smooth.
2: Slightly smooth.
1: Not smooth.

(5) Skin gloss after application (measured value, ΔG):
On artificial leather (Okamoto Chemicals Co., Selanubak # 010), 0.02g of each cosmetic was uniformly applied to a size of 3cm x 3cm. After 15 minutes, GlossymeterGL200 (Courage + Khazaka (Germany) The amount of light directly reflected from the skin surface = gloss value (G (cosmetic application)) was measured. Moreover, the value (G (non-application)) of the uncoated gloss before apply | coating cosmetics was measured, the difference ((DELTA) G) was calculated | required, and glossiness was evaluated. It shows that glossiness is so high that the value of (DELTA) G is large.
(ΔG) = (G (cosmetics applied)) − (G (not applied))

(6) Glossy feeling after application (sensory evaluation):
A specialized panelist applied 0.2 g of each cosmetic material in a circle on the back of the hand with a finger, and evaluated the glossiness of the skin immediately after application according to the following four criteria. The results are shown as the total value of the evaluations of three professional panelists.
4: Very glossy.
3: There is a feeling of gloss.
2: There is a slight glossiness.
1: There is no glossiness.

Examples 3-23
In the same manner as in Examples 1 and 2, cosmetics having the compositions shown in Tables 2, 3 and 4 were produced, and the stability, smoothness of the skin after application, and glossiness were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 2, Table 3 and Table 4.
Examples 3, 6, 7, 10 and 15 are reference examples.

Claims (5)

The following components (A), (B), (C), (D) and (E):
(A) 0.1 to 3.5 % by mass of glycerin monofatty acid ester or glycerin monoalkyl ether derived from a linear fatty acid having 10 to 24 carbon atoms,
(B) 0.1 to 3.5 % by mass of a higher alcohol having 8 to 20 carbon atoms,
(C) Ceramides 0.01-8% by mass,
(D) Diacyl glutamic acid lysine salt 0.01 to 1.5% by mass,
(E) Mass ratio of the total content of components (A), (B) and (C) with respect to the acid equivalent amount of component (D) [((A) + (B) + (C)) / (D)] is 2-150 .   The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio [(A) / (D)] of the component (A) to the acid equivalent of the component (D) is 0.1 to 80.   The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mass ratio [(B) / (D)] of the component (B) to the acid equivalent of the component (D) is 0.1 to 80.   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the mass ratio [(C) / (D)] of the component (C) to the acid equivalent of the component (D) is 0.05 to 80.   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein a mass ratio [(A) / (B)] of the component (A) to the component (B) is 0.01 to 14.