JP2016222600A - Emulsified composition - Google Patents
Emulsified composition Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2016222600A JP2016222600A JP2015110780A JP2015110780A JP2016222600A JP 2016222600 A JP2016222600 A JP 2016222600A JP 2015110780 A JP2015110780 A JP 2015110780A JP 2015110780 A JP2015110780 A JP 2015110780A JP 2016222600 A JP2016222600 A JP 2016222600A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- mass
- component
- preferable
- value
- sphingosine
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 80
- -1 polyoxyethylene group Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 54
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- ZXPRYJHVDMWTMA-BYPYZUCNSA-N (2s)-1-carbamimidoylpyrrolidine-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound NC(=N)N1CCC[C@H]1C(O)=O ZXPRYJHVDMWTMA-BYPYZUCNSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 150000003410 sphingosines Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 150000002894 organic compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 150000001783 ceramides Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000002563 ionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 25
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 17
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 16
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000003945 anionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 229930182558 Sterol Natural products 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000003432 sterols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000003702 sterols Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000003712 anti-aging effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 4
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 35
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 description 20
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 description 15
- WWUZIQQURGPMPG-KRWOKUGFSA-N sphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC\C=C\[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO WWUZIQQURGPMPG-KRWOKUGFSA-N 0.000 description 14
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 13
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 12
- WWUZIQQURGPMPG-UHFFFAOYSA-N (-)-D-erythro-Sphingosine Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCC=CC(O)C(N)CO WWUZIQQURGPMPG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 10
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 10
- AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N phytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N 0.000 description 10
- AERBNCYCJBRYDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-ribo-phytosphingosine Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(N)CO AERBNCYCJBRYDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 229940033329 phytosphingosine Drugs 0.000 description 9
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 8
- YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N C16 ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)C=CCCCCCCCCCCCCC YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N 0.000 description 7
- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-VKHMYHEASA-N L-glutamic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 description 7
- CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N N-acetylsphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(C)=O CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N 0.000 description 7
- ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)NC(CO)C(O)C=CCCC=C(C)CCCCCCCCC ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 7
- VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N newbouldiamide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 7
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 7
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 7
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 6
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 229940049906 glutamate Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 229930195712 glutamate Natural products 0.000 description 6
- 239000004475 Arginine Substances 0.000 description 5
- ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-BYPYZUCNSA-P L-argininium(2+) Chemical compound NC(=[NH2+])NCCC[C@H]([NH3+])C(O)=O ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-BYPYZUCNSA-P 0.000 description 5
- ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N arginine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCCNC(N)=N ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000013078 crystal Substances 0.000 description 5
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N ether Substances CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- OOWQBDFWEXAXPB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-O-palmitylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCC(O)CO OOWQBDFWEXAXPB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- MACVUTCNLULHLQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[methyl(octadecanoyl)amino]ethanesulfonic acid;sodium Chemical compound [Na].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CCS(O)(=O)=O MACVUTCNLULHLQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 4
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 4
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 description 4
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 4
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical compound CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000004895 liquid chromatography mass spectrometry Methods 0.000 description 4
- BDAGIHXWWSANSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N methanoic acid Natural products OC=O BDAGIHXWWSANSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- ULMXYNZCSJBKOQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-(3-hexadecoxy-3-hydroxypropyl)-n-(2-hydroxyethyl)hexadecanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(O)CCN(CCO)C(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC ULMXYNZCSJBKOQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 description 4
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 235000021317 phosphate Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000012916 structural analysis Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 4
- HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCO HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- ZBBHYFGGAMDNPF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-(2-hydroxyethylamino)-3-(16-methylheptadecoxy)propan-2-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCC(O)CNCCO ZBBHYFGGAMDNPF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OKMWKBLSFKFYGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-behenoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO OKMWKBLSFKFYGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- WEVYAHXRMPXWCK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetonitrile Chemical compound CC#N WEVYAHXRMPXWCK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N N-oleoylphytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N 0.000 description 3
- KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[K+] KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 150000005215 alkyl ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 229940024606 amino acid Drugs 0.000 description 3
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- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 3
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- KDYFGRWQOYBRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N succinic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCC(O)=O KDYFGRWQOYBRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000003871 sulfonates Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- OILXMJHPFNGGTO-UHFFFAOYSA-N (22E)-(24xi)-24-methylcholesta-5,22-dien-3beta-ol Natural products C1C=C2CC(O)CCC2(C)C2C1C1CCC(C(C)C=CC(C)C(C)C)C1(C)CC2 OILXMJHPFNGGTO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 2
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- BBAFBDLICMHBNU-MFZOPHKMSA-N N-(2-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-4-hydroxysphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCC BBAFBDLICMHBNU-MFZOPHKMSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- QBXAOVITMNMUHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[[2-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)octadecoxy]methyl]octadecane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)(CO)COCC(O)(CO)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC QBXAOVITMNMUHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- MPNXSZJPSVBLHP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-chloro-n-phenylpyridine-3-carboxamide Chemical compound ClC1=NC=CC=C1C(=O)NC1=CC=CC=C1 MPNXSZJPSVBLHP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- CQKNELOTFUSOTP-HMTIOLNVSA-N 4-hydroxy-8-sphingenine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC\C=C\CCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO CQKNELOTFUSOTP-HMTIOLNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本発明は、乳化組成物に関する。 The present invention relates to an emulsified composition.
化粧料には、柔軟性や美白を付与する原料として、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンなどが応用されている。
特許文献1には、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンを含有し、角質層に柔軟性を付与する皮膚化粧料が記載され、特許文献2には、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンを含有するしわ改善剤及び老化防止化粧料が記載されている。これらの化粧料は、角質層の柔軟性、老化防止などに対して効果を発揮するものの、近年の消費者ニーズでは、より高い効果が求められ、また、使用感においても、老化防止を想起するハリ感が求められていると判明した。
In cosmetics, N-amidino-L-proline and the like are applied as raw materials for imparting flexibility and whitening.
Patent Document 1 describes a skin cosmetic that contains N-amidino-L-proline and imparts flexibility to the stratum corneum, and Patent Document 2 describes wrinkle improvement that includes N-amidino-L-proline. Agents and anti-aging cosmetics are described. Although these cosmetics are effective for the softness of the stratum corneum, anti-aging, etc., recent consumer needs require higher effects, and the feeling of use is also recalled. It turned out that a sense of elasticity was required.
本発明は、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンを含有し、老化防止等の効果が高まり、ハリ感を想起させる使用感のある乳化組成物に関する。 The present invention relates to an emulsified composition containing N-amidino-L-proline, having enhanced effects such as anti-aging, and having a feeling of use reminiscent of elasticity.
本発明者らは、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンとα−ゲル製剤を組み合わせることによって、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンの皮膚への浸透量が格段に高まり、その結果、角質層の柔軟性、老化防止などの効果がより向上すると期待でき、また、ハリ感を想起できる使用感が得られることを見出した。 By combining N-amidino-L-proline and an α-gel preparation, the present inventors greatly increased the amount of N-amidino-L-proline penetrating into the skin, and as a result, the flexibility of the stratum corneum, It was found that the effect of preventing aging and the like could be further improved, and that it was possible to obtain a feeling of use capable of recalling a firmness.
本発明は、次の成分(A)、(B)、(C)、(D)、(E)及び(F):
(A)水酸基を2個以上有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が220〜450、有機性値が300〜1000である有機化合物 0.05〜10質量%、
(B)水酸基を1個有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が100〜200、有機性値が280〜700である有機化合物 0.05〜10質量%、
(C)セラミド類 0.05〜15質量%、
(D)ポリオキシエチレン基を有するHLB10以上の非イオン界面活性剤、イオン性界面活性剤及びスフィンゴシン塩類から選ばれる1種以上の化合物 0.05〜5質量%、
(E)N−アミジノ−L−プロリン 0.1〜9質量%、
(F)水
を含有し、成分(A)、(B)、(C)及び(D)の合計含有量が、1.5〜22質量%である乳化組成物に関する。
The present invention includes the following components (A), (B), (C), (D), (E) and (F):
(A) An organic compound having two or more hydroxyl groups, an inorganic value of 220 to 450, an organic value of 300 to 1000, 0.05 to 10% by mass,
(B) an organic compound having one hydroxyl group, an inorganic value of 100 to 200, an organic value of 280 to 700, 0.05 to 10% by mass,
(C) Ceramides 0.05 to 15% by mass,
(D) 0.05 to 5% by mass of one or more compounds selected from nonionic surfactants having a polyoxyethylene group of HLB 10 or more, ionic surfactants and sphingosine salts,
(E) N-amidino-L-proline 0.1-9% by mass,
(F) It is related with the emulsion composition which contains water and the total content of component (A), (B), (C) and (D) is 1.5-22 mass%.
本発明の乳化組成物は、成分(A)、(B)、(C)及び(D)を主成分とするα−ゲル構造を形成し、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンの皮膚への浸透量が高く、皮膚に塗布したときには、伸びが良く、塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じが得られ、更に指で触った時に指が止まるような感覚の指どまり感を得ることができ、使用感としての肌へのハリ感が得られるものである。 The emulsified composition of the present invention forms an α-gel structure composed mainly of components (A), (B), (C) and (D), and the amount of N-amidino-L-proline penetrating into the skin. When applied to the skin, it stretches well, and the skin after application can be covered with a familiar cosmetic. It is possible to obtain a firmness to the skin as a feeling of use.
本発明で用いる成分(A)は、水酸基を2個以上有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が220〜450、有機性値が300〜1000である有機化合物である。成分(A)は、成分(B)、(C)及び(D)と組合わせてα−ゲル構造を形成させる観点から、無機性値が220〜340、有機性値が380〜840である有機化合物が好ましく、無機性値が250〜340、有機性値が380〜700である有機化合物がより好ましい。
本発明において、無機性値、有機性値とは、有機概念図(藤田穆、有機化合物の予測と有機概念図、化学の領域Vol.11,No.10(1957)719−725)に基づき求められる無機性値及び有機性値の値をいう。
The component (A) used in the present invention is an organic compound having two or more hydroxyl groups, and has an inorganic value of 220 to 450 and an organic value of 300 to 1000. Component (A) is an organic compound having an inorganic value of 220 to 340 and an organic value of 380 to 840 from the viewpoint of forming an α-gel structure in combination with components (B), (C) and (D). A compound is preferable, and an organic compound having an inorganic value of 250 to 340 and an organic value of 380 to 700 is more preferable.
In this invention, an inorganic value and an organic value are calculated | required based on an organic conceptual diagram (Akira Fujita, Prediction of an organic compound and an organic conceptual diagram, Chemistry area Vol. 11, No. 10 (1957) 719-725). The value of the inorganic value and organic value which are obtained.
成分(A)としては、次の一般式(1)で表されるものが挙げられる。 Examples of the component (A) include those represented by the following general formula (1).
(式中、Z1は、グリセリン、ソルビタン、ソルビトール又はショ糖残基で2個以上のヒドロキシル基を有する構造を示し、Y1は、エステル結合基又はエーテル結合基を示し、Rは、炭素数14〜22の炭化水素基を示し、nは1〜2の数を示す) (In the formula, Z 1 represents a structure having two or more hydroxyl groups in a glycerin, sorbitan, sorbitol or sucrose residue, Y 1 represents an ester bond group or an ether bond group, and R represents the number of carbon atoms. 14 represents a hydrocarbon group of 22 to 22 and n represents a number of 1 to 2)
式中、Rで示される炭素数14〜22の炭化水素基としては、直鎖炭化水素基が好ましく、例えば、ミリスチル基、パルミチル基、ステアリル基、ベヘニル基等の直鎖アルキル基;パルミトイル基、オレイル基等が挙げられる。
一般式(1)で表される化合物としては、グリセリンモノ脂肪酸エステル、ソルビタンモノ脂肪酸エステル、ソルビタンジ脂肪酸エステル、ソルビトールモノ脂肪酸エステル、ソルビトールジ脂肪酸エステル、ショ糖モノ脂肪酸エステル、グリセリンモノアルキルエーテル等が挙げられる。
In the formula, the hydrocarbon group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms represented by R is preferably a linear hydrocarbon group, for example, a linear alkyl group such as a myristyl group, a palmityl group, a stearyl group, a behenyl group; a palmitoyl group; An oleyl group etc. are mentioned.
Examples of the compound represented by the general formula (1) include glycerin monofatty acid ester, sorbitan monofatty acid ester, sorbitan difatty acid ester, sorbitol monofatty acid ester, sorbitol difatty acid ester, sucrose monofatty acid ester, glycerin monoalkyl ether, and the like. Can be mentioned.
成分(A)としては、成分(B)、(C)及び(D)と組合わせてα−ゲル構造を形成させる観点から、グリセリンモノ脂肪酸エステル、グリセリンモノアルキルエーテル、ソルビタンモノ脂肪酸エステル及びソルビタンジ脂肪酸エステルが好ましく、グリセリンモノ脂肪酸エステル、グリセリンモノアルキルエーテルがより好ましい。また、グリセリンモノ脂肪酸エステルとしては、モノパルミチン酸グリセリル(無機性値260、有機性値380)、モノステアリン酸グリセリル(無機性値260、有機性値420)、モノベヘン酸グリセリル(無機性値260、有機性値500)から選ばれる少なくとも1種が好ましく、グリセリンモノアルキルエーテルとしては、モノセチルグリセリルエーテル(無機性値220、有機性値380)、モノステアリルグリセリルエーテル(無機性値220、有機性値420)が好ましく、ソルビタンモノ脂肪酸エステルとしては、モノステアリン酸ソルビタン(無機性値445、有機性値480)から選ばれる少なくとも1種が好ましく、ソルビタンジ脂肪酸エステルとしては、ジステアリン酸ソルビタン(無機性値340、有機性値840)が好ましく、同様の観点から、モノベヘン酸グリセリル又はモノセチルグリセリルエーテルがより好ましい。 As the component (A), from the viewpoint of forming an α-gel structure in combination with the components (B), (C) and (D), glycerin monofatty acid ester, glycerin monoalkyl ether, sorbitan monofatty acid ester and sorbitan di Fatty acid esters are preferred, and glycerin monofatty acid esters and glycerin monoalkyl ethers are more preferred. Examples of the glycerin monofatty acid ester include glyceryl monopalmitate (inorganic value 260, organic value 380), glyceryl monostearate (inorganic value 260, organic value 420), glyceryl monobehenate (inorganic value 260, At least one selected from organic value 500) is preferable. Examples of glycerin monoalkyl ether include monocetyl glyceryl ether (inorganic value 220, organic value 380), monostearyl glyceryl ether (inorganic value 220, organic value). 420) is preferable, and the sorbitan monofatty acid ester is preferably at least one selected from sorbitan monostearate (inorganic value 445, organic value 480), and the sorbitan difatty acid ester is sorbitan distearate (inorganic value). 340, organic value 40) are preferred, from the same viewpoint, monobehenate glyceryl or monocetyl glyceryl ether are more preferable.
成分(A)は、1種又は2種以上を組合わせて用いることができ、指どまり感及び塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じを向上させる観点から、含有量は、全組成中に0.05質量%以上であり、0.1質量%以上が好ましく、0.3質量%以上がより好ましく、0.6質量%以上がさらに好ましく、伸ばしやすさを向上させる観点から、10質量%以下であり、6質量%以下が好ましく、3.5質量%以下がより好ましく、1.5質量%以下がさらに好ましい。また、成分(A)の含有量は、全組成中に0.05〜10質量%であり、0.1〜6質量%が好ましく、0.3〜3.5質量%がより好ましく、0.6〜1.5質量%がさらに好ましい。 Component (A) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and from the viewpoint of improving the feeling of finger tightness and the feeling that the skin after application is covered with cosmetics, the content is the total composition It is 0.05% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, still more preferably 0.6% by mass or more, and from the viewpoint of improving ease of stretching, 10% % By mass or less, preferably 6% by mass or less, more preferably 3.5% by mass or less, and further preferably 1.5% by mass or less. Moreover, content of a component (A) is 0.05-10 mass% in the whole composition, 0.1-6 mass% is preferable, 0.3-3.5 mass% is more preferable, and 0.3. 6-1.5 mass% is more preferable.
本発明で用いる成分(B)は、水酸基を1個有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が100〜200、有機性値が280〜700である有機化合物である。成分(B)は、成分(A)、(C)及び(D)と組合わせてα−ゲル構造を形成させる観点から、無機性値が100〜182、有機性値が300〜520である有機化合物が好ましい。
成分(B)としては、具体的には、炭素数12〜22の高級アルコール及びステロール類から選ばれる1種以上の化合物が挙げられ、α−ゲルを形成させる観点から、炭素数12〜22の高級アルコールが好ましい。
The component (B) used in the present invention is an organic compound having one hydroxyl group and having an inorganic value of 100 to 200 and an organic value of 280 to 700. Component (B) is an organic compound having an inorganic value of 100 to 182 and an organic value of 300 to 520 from the viewpoint of forming an α-gel structure in combination with components (A), (C) and (D). Compounds are preferred.
Specific examples of the component (B) include one or more compounds selected from higher alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and sterols. From the viewpoint of forming an α-gel, 12 to 22 carbon atoms can be used. Higher alcohols are preferred.
高級アルコールとしては、炭素数14〜22であるのが好ましく、炭素数16〜18がより好ましい。また、高級アルコールを構成する炭素鎖は、直鎖又は分岐鎖のいずれでもよく、直鎖のものが好ましい。高級アルコールとしては、例えば、ミリスチルアルコール(無機性値100、有機性値280)、セタノール(無機性値100、有機性値320)、ステアリルアルコール(無機性値100、有機性値360)、ベヘニルアルコール(無機性値100、有機性値440)、オレイルアルコール(無機性値102、有機性値360)等が挙げられる。 The higher alcohol preferably has 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably has 16 to 18 carbon atoms. The carbon chain constituting the higher alcohol may be either a straight chain or a branched chain, and a straight chain is preferable. Examples of the higher alcohol include myristyl alcohol (inorganic value 100, organic value 280), cetanol (inorganic value 100, organic value 320), stearyl alcohol (inorganic value 100, organic value 360), behenyl alcohol ( Inorganic value 100, organic value 440), oleyl alcohol (inorganic value 102, organic value 360), and the like.
また、ステロール類としては、コレステロール(無機性値182、有機性値520)及びフィトステロールが挙げられる。フィトステロールは、β−シトステロール、カンペステロール、スティグマステロール、ブラシカステロール等の植物ステロールの総称であり、その組成は限定されるものではない。 Examples of sterols include cholesterol (inorganic value 182 and organic value 520) and phytosterol. Phytosterol is a general term for plant sterols such as β-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, and brassicasterol, and the composition thereof is not limited.
成分(B)は、1種又は2種以上を組合わせて用いることができ、指止まり感及び塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じを向上させる観点から、含有量は、全組成中に0.05質量%以上であり、0.1質量%以上が好ましく、0.3質量%以上がより好ましく、0.5質量%以上がさらに好ましく、伸ばしやすさを向上させる観点から、10質量%以下であり、6質量%以下が好ましく、3.5質量%以下がより好ましく、1.5質量%以下がさらに好ましい。また、成分(B)の含有量は、全組成中に0.05〜10質量%であり、0.1〜6質量%が好ましく、0.3〜3.5質量%がより好ましく、0.5〜1.5質量%がさらに好ましい。 Component (B) can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and from the viewpoint of improving the feeling of finger tightness and the feeling that the skin after application is covered with cosmetics, the content is the total composition It is 0.05% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, further preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and from the viewpoint of improving the ease of stretching, % By mass or less, preferably 6% by mass or less, more preferably 3.5% by mass or less, and further preferably 1.5% by mass or less. Moreover, content of a component (B) is 0.05-10 mass% in the whole composition, 0.1-6 mass% is preferable, 0.3-3.5 mass% is more preferable, and 0.3. 5-1.5 mass% is still more preferable.
本発明で用いる成分(C)のセラミド類としては、(I)天然由来のセラミド及び(II
)擬似型セラミドから選ばれる1種又は2種以上が好ましく、例えば、特開2013−53146号公報記載のセラミドが好ましい。
(I)天然由来のセラミド(以下、天然型セラミドという)の具体例としては、セラミドType1〜7(例えば、J. Lipid Res., 24:759(1983)の図2、及びJ. Lipid. Res.,35:2069(1994)の図4記載のブタ及びヒトのセラミド類)が挙げられる。
更に、これらのN−アルキル体(例えば、N−メチル体)も含まれる。
The ceramides of component (C) used in the present invention include (I) natural ceramide and (II)
) One type or two or more types selected from pseudo-ceramides are preferable. For example, ceramides described in JP2013-53146A are preferable.
(I) Specific examples of naturally-occurring ceramides (hereinafter referred to as natural ceramides) include ceramide types 1 to 7 (for example, FIG. 2 of J. Lipid Res., 24: 759 (1983), and J. Lipid. Res. ., 35: 2069 (1994), porcine and human ceramides described in FIG.
Furthermore, these N-alkyl bodies (for example, N-methyl body) are also included.
これらのセラミドは、天然型(D(−)体)の光学活性体を用いても、非天然型(L(+)体)の光学活性体を用いても、更に天然型と非天然型の混合物を用いてもよい。上記化合物の立体配置は、天然型の立体配置のものでも、それ以外の非天然型の立体配置のものでも良く、また、これらの混合物によるものでもよい。これらのうち、CERAMIDE1、CERAMIDE2、CERAMIDE3、CERAMIDE5、CERAMIDE6IIの化合物(以上、INCI、8th Edition)及び次式で表わされるものが好ましい。 These ceramides can be either natural or non-natural (D (-)) optically active or non-natural (L (+)) optically active. Mixtures may be used. The configuration of the compound may be a natural configuration, a non-natural configuration other than that, or a mixture thereof. Of these, compounds of CERAMIDE1, CERAMIDE2, CERAMIDE3, CERAMIDE5, CERAMIDE6II (hereinafter referred to as INCI, 8th Edition) and those represented by the following formula are preferable.
これらは天然からの抽出物及び/又は合成物のいずれでもよく、市販のものを用いることができる。
このような天然型セラミドの市販のものとしては、Ceramide I、Ceramide III、Ceramide IIIA、Ceramide IIIB、Ceramide IIIC、Ceramide VI(以上、コスモファーム社)、Ceramide TIC-001(高砂香料社)、CERAMIDE II(Quest International社)、DS-Ceramide VI、DS-CLA-Phytoceramide、Phytoceramide、DS-ceramide Y3S(DOOSAN社)、CERAMIDE2(セダーマ社)が挙げられる。
These may be natural extracts and / or synthetic products, and commercially available products may be used.
Such commercially available natural ceramides are Ceramide I, Ceramide III, Ceramide IIIA, Ceramide IIIB, Ceramide IIIC, Ceramide VI (above, Cosmo Farm), Ceramide TIC-001 (Takasago Inc.), CERAMIDE II (Quest International), DS-Ceramide VI, DS-CLA-Phytoceramide, Phytoceramide, DS-ceramide Y3S (DOOSAN), CERAMIDE2 (Cedama).
(II)擬似型セラミドとしては、次式で表されるN−(ヘキサデシロキシヒドロキシプロピル)−N−ヒドロキシエチルヘキサデカナミド、N−(ヘキサデシロキシヒドロキシプロピル)−N−ヒドロキシエチルデカナミド等が挙げられ、N−(ヘキサデシロキシヒドロキシプロピル)−N−ヒドロキシエチルヘキサデカナミド)が好ましい。 (II) As pseudo-ceramides, N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide, N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethyldecanamim represented by the following formula: N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) is preferable.
成分(C)は、1種又は2種以上を組合わせて用いることができ、指どまり感及び塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じを向上させる観点から、含有量は、全組成中に0.05質量%以上であり、0.1質量%以上が好ましく、0.5質量%以上がより好ましく、1質量%以上がさらに好ましく、伸ばしやすさを向上させる観点から、15質量%以下であり、10質量%以下が好ましく、7質量%以下がより好ましく、3質量%以下がさらに好ましい。また、成分(C)の含有量は、全組成中に0.05〜15質量%であり、0.1〜10質量%が好ましく、0.5〜7質量%がより好ましく、1〜3質量%がさらに好ましい。 Component (C) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and from the viewpoint of improving the feeling of finger tightness and the feeling that the skin after application is covered with cosmetics, the content is the total composition It is 0.05% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, further preferably 1% by mass or more, and 15% by mass from the viewpoint of improving ease of stretching. 10 mass% or less, preferably 7 mass% or less, more preferably 3 mass% or less. Moreover, content of a component (C) is 0.05-15 mass% in the whole composition, 0.1-10 mass% is preferable, 0.5-7 mass% is more preferable, 1-3 mass % Is more preferable.
本発明で用いる成分(D)は、ポリオキシエチレン基を有するHLB10以上の非イオン界面活性剤、イオン性界面活性剤及びスフィンゴシン塩類から選ばれる1種以上の化合物である。
成分(D)の化合物のうち、非イオン界面活性剤は、ポリオキシエチレン基を有するもので、HLB10以上、好ましくはHLB12.5〜15.5の親水性のものである。例えば、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、アルキルポリオキシエチレングリセリル、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル等が挙げられる。
これらのうち、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、モノステアリン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビタンが好ましい。
Component (D) used in the present invention is one or more compounds selected from nonionic surfactants having a polyoxyethylene group of HLB 10 or higher, ionic surfactants, and sphingosine salts.
Among the compounds of component (D), the nonionic surfactant has a polyoxyethylene group and has a hydrophilicity of HLB 10 or more, preferably HLB 12.5 to 15.5. Examples include polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, alkyl polyoxyethylene glyceryl, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, and the like.
Of these, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate are preferred.
また、成分(D)の化合物のうち、イオン性界面活性剤としては、アニオン界面活性剤、カチオン界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤が挙げられる。
アニオン界面活性剤としては、例えば、ラウリン酸ナトリウム、パルミチン酸カリウム、ステアリン酸アルギニン等の炭素数12〜24の脂肪酸塩;ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム、ラウリル硫酸カリウム等のアルキル硫酸エステル塩;ポリオキシエチレンラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン等のアルキルエーテル硫酸エステル塩;ラウロイルサルコシンナトリウム等のN−アシルサルコシン塩;N−ステアロイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム、N−ミリストイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム等の脂肪酸アミドスルホン酸塩;モノステアリルリン酸ナトリウム等のアルキルリン酸塩;ポリオキシエチレンオレイルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム、ポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム等のポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテルリン酸塩;ジ−2−エチルヘキシルスルホコハク酸ナトリウム等の長鎖スルホコハク酸塩;N−ラウロイルグルタミン酸モノナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸アルギニン、N−ステアロイルグルタミン酸ナトリウム、N−ミリストイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウム等の長鎖N−アシルグルタミン酸塩などが挙げられる。
これらのうち、炭素数12〜24の脂肪酸塩、脂肪酸アミドスルホン酸塩、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテルリン酸塩、長鎖N−アシルグルタミン酸塩が好ましく、更に、N−ステアロイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸アルギニン、ポリオキシチレンステアリルエーテルリン酸ナトリウムが好ましい。
Among the compounds of component (D), examples of the ionic surfactant include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.
Examples of the anionic surfactant include fatty acid salts having 12 to 24 carbon atoms such as sodium laurate, potassium palmitate and arginine stearate; alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate and potassium lauryl sulfate; polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate Alkyl ether sulfate ester salts such as triethanolamine; N-acyl sarcosine salts such as sodium lauroyl sarcosine; fatty acid amide sulfonates such as sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine and sodium N-myristoyl-N-methyltaurine; mono Alkyl phosphates such as sodium stearyl phosphate; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as sodium polyoxyethylene oleyl ether sodium and polyoxyethylene stearyl ether sodium phosphate Phosphate; long-chain sulfosuccinate such as sodium di-2-ethylhexylsulfosuccinate; monosodium N-lauroyl glutamate, sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, arginine N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, sodium N-stearoyl glutamate And long-chain N-acyl glutamates such as sodium N-myristoyl-L-glutamate.
Among these, fatty acid salts having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, fatty acid amide sulfonates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates, and long-chain N-acyl glutamates are preferred, and further, N-stearoyl-N-methyl taurate sodium, N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid arginine and polyoxyethylene stearyl ether sodium phosphate are preferred.
また、カチオン界面活性剤としては、第4級アンモニウム塩が好ましく、例えば、塩化ステアリウムトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ラウリルトリメチルアンモニウム等のアルキルトリメチルアンモニウム塩;ジアルキルジメチルアンモニウム、トリアルキルメチルアンモニウム塩、アルキルアミン塩などが挙げられる。 The cationic surfactant is preferably a quaternary ammonium salt, for example, an alkyltrimethylammonium salt such as stearium trimethylammonium chloride or lauryltrimethylammonium chloride; a dialkyldimethylammonium salt, a trialkylmethylammonium salt, an alkylamine salt, etc. Is mentioned.
更に、両性界面活性剤としては、アルキルジメチルアミンオキシド、アルキルカルボキシベタイン、アルキルスルホベタイン、アミドアミノ酸塩、アルキルアミドプロピルベタインが挙げられ、更にアルキルアミドプロピルベタインが好ましい。 Furthermore, examples of the amphoteric surfactant include alkyldimethylamine oxide, alkylcarboxybetaine, alkylsulfobetaine, amide amino acid salt, and alkylamidopropylbetaine, and alkylamidopropylbetaine is more preferable.
本発明で用いる成分(D)の化合物のうち、スフィンゴシン塩類とは、スフィンゴシン類と酸性物質とから構成されるものである。
スフィンゴシン類としては、天然由来のスフィンゴシン類又は同構造の合成物、及びその誘導体(以下、天然型スフィンゴシンと記載する。)又はスフィンゴシン構造を有する擬似型スフィンゴシン類(以下、擬似型スフィンゴシンと記載する。)が好ましい。
Among the compounds of component (D) used in the present invention, sphingosine salts are composed of sphingosines and acidic substances.
As sphingosines, naturally-derived sphingosines or synthetic products having the same structure, and derivatives thereof (hereinafter referred to as natural sphingosine) or pseudo-sphingosines having a sphingosine structure (hereinafter referred to as pseudo-sphingosine). ) Is preferred.
天然型スフィンゴシンとして、具体的には、天然のスフィンゴシン、ジヒドロスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシン、スフィンガジエニン、デヒドロスフィンゴシン、デヒドロフィトスフィンゴシン、及びこれらのN−アルキル体(例えばN−メチル体)等が挙げられる。
これらのスフィンゴシンは天然型(D(+)体)の光学活性体を用いても、非天然型(L(−)体)の光学活性体を用いても、更に天然型と非天然型の混合物を用いてもよい。上記化合物の相対立体配置は、天然型の立体配置のものでも、それ以外の非天然型の立体配置のものでも良く、また、これらの混合物によるものでもよい。
更に、PHYTOSPHINGOSINE(INCI名;8th Edition)及び次式で表わされるものが好ましい。
Specific examples of natural sphingosine include natural sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine, sphingadienin, dehydrosphingosine, dehydrophytosphingosine, and N-alkyl isomers thereof (for example, N-methyl). .
These sphingosines may be either natural (D (+)) optically active or non-natural (L (-)) optically active, or a mixture of natural and non-natural types. May be used. The relative configuration of the above compound may be a natural configuration, a non-natural configuration other than that, or a mixture thereof.
Further, PHYTOSPHINGOSINE (INCI name: 8th Edition) and the following formula are preferable.
これらは、天然からの抽出物及び合成物のいずれでもよく、市販のものを用いることができる。
天然型スフィンゴシンの市販のものとしては、例えば、D-Sphingosine(4-Sphingenine)(SIGMA-ALDRICH社)、DS-phytosphingosine (DOOSAN社)、phytosphingosine(コスモファーム社)が挙げられる。
These may be any of natural extracts and synthetic products, and commercially available products can be used.
Examples of commercially available natural sphingosine include D-Sphingosine (4-Sphingenine) (SIGMA-ALDRICH), DS-phytosphingosine (DOOSAN), and phytosphingosine (Cosmo Farm).
擬似型スフィンゴシンの具体例として、次の擬似型スフィンゴシン(i)〜(iv)、及び1−(2−ヒドロキシエチルアミノ)−3−イソステアリルオキシ−2−プロパノールが挙げられる。 Specific examples of the pseudo-sphingosine include the following pseudo-sphingosines (i) to (iv) and 1- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -3-isostearyloxy-2-propanol.
スフィンゴシン類としては、天然型のスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシン、擬似型スフィンゴシンが好ましく、擬似型スフィンゴシンがより好ましく、擬似型スフィンゴシン(ii)、1−(2−ヒドロキシエチルアミノ)−3−イソステアリルオキシ−2−プロパノールがさらに好ましい。 As the sphingosines, natural sphingosine, phytosphingosine, and pseudo-sphingosine are preferable, pseudo-sphingosine is more preferable, and pseudo-sphingosine (ii), 1- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -3-isostearyloxy-2 -Propanol is more preferred.
これらの天然型のスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシン、擬似型スフィンゴシンと塩を構成する酸性物質としては、グルタミン酸、アスパラギン酸等の酸性アミノ酸;リン酸、塩酸等の無機酸;酢酸等のモノカルボン酸;コハク酸等のジカルボン酸;クエン酸、乳酸、リンゴ酸等のオキシカルボン酸などが挙げられる。これらの中で、天然型のスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシン、又は擬似型スフィンゴシン(擬似型スフィンゴシン(ii)、1−(2−ヒドロキシエチルアミノ)−3−イソステアリルオキシ−2−プロパノール)のコハク酸塩、乳酸塩、グルタミン酸塩が好ましく、更に、天然型のスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシン、又は擬似型スフィンゴシンのグルタミン酸塩が好ましい。 Acidic substances that constitute salts with these natural sphingosine, phytosphingosine, and pseudo-sphingosine include acidic amino acids such as glutamic acid and aspartic acid; inorganic acids such as phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid; monocarboxylic acids such as acetic acid; succinic acid And dicarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid and malic acid. Among these, natural sphingosine, phytosphingosine, or pseudo-sphingosine (pseudo-sphingosine (ii), 1- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -3-isostearyloxy-2-propanol) succinate, Lactate and glutamate are preferred, and natural sphingosine, phytosphingosine, or pseudo-sphingosine glutamate is more preferred.
成分(D)としては、成分(A)、(B)及び(C)と組合わせてα−ゲル構造を形成させる観点からアニオン界面活性剤、スフィンゴシン塩類が好ましく、少ない量で安定な乳化物が得られる観点から、N−ステアロイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム、ポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸アルギニン、フィトスフィンゴシンのグルタミン酸塩、擬似型スフィンゴシンのグルタミン酸塩がより好ましい。 Component (D) is preferably an anionic surfactant or sphingosine salt from the viewpoint of forming an α-gel structure in combination with components (A), (B) and (C), and a stable emulsion in a small amount. From the viewpoint of obtaining, sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine, sodium polyoxyethylene stearyl ether phosphate, arginine N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, glutamate of phytosphingosine, and glutamate of pseudo-sphingosine are more preferable.
成分(D)は、1種又は2種以上を組合わせて用いることができ、指どまり感、塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じ及び保存安定性を向上させる観点から、含有量は、全組成中に0.05質量%以上であり、0.1質量%以上が好ましく、0.15質量%以上がより好ましく、0.3質量%以上がさらに好ましく、伸ばしやすさ、保存安定性を向上させる観点から、5質量%以下であり、3質量%以下が好ましく、2.2質量%以下がより好ましく、0.8質量%以下がさらに好ましい。また、成分(D)の含有量は、全組成中に0.05〜5質量%であり、0.1〜3質量%が好ましく、0.15〜2.2質量%がより好ましく、0.3〜0.8質量%がさらに好ましい。なお、成分(D)が、イオン性界面活性剤及びスフィンゴシン塩類の場合、乳化組成物中の含有量は酸換算の質量を示す。以下、成分(D)の質量を示す場合も同様である。 Component (D) can be used singly or in combination of two or more, from the viewpoint of improving the feeling of finger tightness, the feeling that the coated skin is covered with cosmetics and storage stability. Is 0.05% by mass or more in the total composition, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.15% by mass or more, further preferably 0.3% by mass or more, ease of elongation, storage stability From the viewpoint of improving the property, it is 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, more preferably 2.2% by mass or less, and further preferably 0.8% by mass or less. Moreover, content of a component (D) is 0.05-5 mass% in the whole composition, 0.1-3 mass% is preferable, 0.15-2.2 mass% is more preferable, and 0.1. 3-0.8 mass% is further more preferable. In addition, when a component (D) is an ionic surfactant and sphingosine salts, content in an emulsion composition shows the mass of acid conversion. Hereinafter, the same applies to the case of indicating the mass of the component (D).
本発明において、成分(A)、(B)、(C)及び(D)の合計含有量は、指どまり感、塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じ及びアミジノ−L−プロリンの皮膚への浸透量を向上させる観点から、全組成中に1.5質量%以上であり、2質量%以上が好ましく、3質量%以上がより好ましく、伸ばしやすさ、アミジノ−L−プロリンの皮膚への浸透量を向上させる観点から、22質量%以下であり、16質量%以下が好ましく、6.5質量%以下がより好ましい。また、成分(A)、(B)、(C)及び(D)の合計含有量は、全組成中に1.5〜22質量%であり、2〜16質量%が好ましく、3〜6.5質量%がより好ましい。 In the present invention, the total content of the components (A), (B), (C) and (D) is the feeling of finger tightness, the feeling that the skin after application is covered with the cosmetics and the amidino-L-proline content. From the viewpoint of improving the amount of penetration into the skin, the total composition is 1.5% by mass or more, preferably 2% by mass or more, more preferably 3% by mass or more, easiness of extension, amidino-L-proline skin From the viewpoint of improving the amount of penetration into the water, it is 22% by mass or less, preferably 16% by mass or less, and more preferably 6.5% by mass or less. Moreover, the sum total content of component (A), (B), (C) and (D) is 1.5-22 mass% in the whole composition, 2-16 mass% is preferable, 3-6. 5 mass% is more preferable.
本発明で用いる成分(E)は、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンである。
成分(E)の含有量は、指止まり感、塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じを向上させる観点から、全組成中に0.1質量%以上であり、0.3質量%以上が好ましく、0.8質量%以上がより好ましく、塗布後の肌がなじませた化粧料で覆われる感じ、指止まり感を向上させる観点から、9質量%以下であり、7質量%以下が好ましく、5.5質量%以下がより好ましく、3.5質量%以下がさらに好ましい。また、成分(E)の含有量は、全組成中に0.1〜9質量%であり、0.3〜7質量%が好ましく、0.8〜5.5質量%がより好ましく、0.8〜3.5質量%がよりさらに好ましい。
Component (E) used in the present invention is N-amidino-L-proline.
The content of the component (E) is 0.1% by mass or more and 0.3% by mass in the total composition from the viewpoint of improving the feeling of finger tightness and the feeling that the skin after application is covered with a cosmetic that is familiar to the user. The above is preferable, 0.8% by mass or more is more preferable, and 9% by mass or less is 7% by mass or less from the viewpoint of improving the feeling that the skin after application is covered with the cosmetics that are familiar and the feeling of finger stop. It is preferably 5.5% by mass or less, more preferably 3.5% by mass or less. Moreover, content of a component (E) is 0.1-9 mass% in the whole composition, 0.3-7 mass% is preferable, 0.8-5.5 mass% is more preferable, and 0.8. 8-3.5 mass% is still more preferable.
本発明において、成分(E)に対する成分(A)、(B)、(C)及び(D)の合計の質量割合[((A)+(B)+(C)+(D))/(E)]は、指止まり感、塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じ及びN−アミジノ−L−プロリンの皮膚への浸透量を向上させる観点から、0.4以上が好ましく、0.65以上がより好ましく、0.9以上がさらに好ましく、1以上がよりさらに好ましく、1.3以上がよりさらに好ましく、伸ばしやすさ、塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じ及びN−アミジノ−L−プロリンの皮膚への浸透量を向上させる観点から、25以下が好ましく、16以下がより好ましく、10以下がさらに好ましく、8以下がよりさらに好ましく、3.8以下がよりさらに好ましい。また、成分(E)に対する成分(A)、(B)、(C)及び(D)の合計の質量割合[((A)+(B)+(C)+(D))/(E)]は、0.4〜25が好ましく、0.65〜16がより好ましく、0.9〜10がさらに好ましく、1〜8がよりさらに好ましく、1.3〜3.8がよりさらに好ましい。 In the present invention, the total mass ratio of the components (A), (B), (C) and (D) to the component (E) [((A) + (B) + (C) + (D)) / ( E)] is preferably 0.4 or more from the viewpoint of improving the feeling of finger tightness, the feeling that the skin after application is covered with cosmetics, and the amount of penetration of N-amidino-L-proline into the skin. .65 or more is more preferable, 0.9 or more is more preferable, 1 or more is more preferable, 1.3 or more is more preferable, easiness of stretching, feeling that the skin after application is covered with cosmetics and N -From the viewpoint of improving the amount of amidino-L-proline penetrating into the skin, 25 or less is preferable, 16 or less is more preferable, 10 or less is more preferable, 8 or less is more preferable, and 3.8 or less is more preferable. . The total mass ratio of the components (A), (B), (C) and (D) to the component (E) [((A) + (B) + (C) + (D)) / (E) ] Is preferably 0.4 to 25, more preferably 0.65 to 16, more preferably 0.9 to 10, still more preferably 1 to 8, and still more preferably 1.3 to 3.8.
本発明において、成分(F)の水の含有量は、伸びしやすさを向上させる観点から、全組成中に50〜98質量%が好ましく、60〜96質量%がより好ましく、70〜95質量%がさらに好ましい。
また、その他の水性基剤、例えばエタノール、プロパノール等の炭素数1〜4の低級アルコールなどを含有することもできる。
In the present invention, the content of water of the component (F) is preferably 50 to 98 mass%, more preferably 60 to 96 mass%, and more preferably 70 to 95 mass% in the total composition from the viewpoint of improving the easiness of elongation. % Is more preferable.
Moreover, other aqueous bases, for example, C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol and propanol, can also be contained.
本発明においては、前記成分のそれぞれの好ましい成分、及び好ましい含有量を組み合わせるのが、より好ましい。
更に、成分(A)がモノベヘン酸グリセリル又はモノセチルグリセリルエーテル、成分(B)がセタノール、成分(C)がN−(ヘキサデシロキシヒドロキシプロピル)−N−ヒドロキシエチルヘキサデカナミド)、成分(D)がステアロイルグルタミン酸塩又はスフィンゴシン塩類、成分(E)がN−アミジノ−L−プロリン、成分(F)が水であるものが、より好ましい。
In the present invention, it is more preferable to combine the preferred components and the preferred contents of the components.
Furthermore, component (A) is glyceryl monobehenate or monocetyl glyceryl ether, component (B) is cetanol, component (C) is N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide), component ( More preferably, D) is stearoyl glutamate or sphingosine salt, component (E) is N-amidino-L-proline, and component (F) is water.
本発明の乳化組成物は、更に、前記以外の油性成分を含有することができる。例えば、流動パラフィン、スクワラン、ワセリン等の炭化水素油;セチルジメチルブチルエーテル、エチレングリコールジオクチルエーテル、グリセロールモノオレイルエーテル等のエーテル油;ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸ブチル、アジピン酸ジ−2−エチルヘキシル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、トリオクタノイン等のエステル油;ステアリン酸、ベヘン酸、イソミリスチン酸等の高級脂肪酸;ジメチルポリシロキサン、環状ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、アミノ変性シリコーン、カルボキシ変性シリコーン、アルコール変性シリコーン、アルキル変性シリコーン、ポリエーテル変性シリコーン、フッ素変性シリコーン等のシリコーン油;パーフルオロアルキルエチルリン酸、パーフルオロアルキルポリオキシエチレンリン酸、パーフルオロポリエーテル、ポリテトラフルオロエチレン等のフッ素系油などが挙げられる。これらの油性成分の含有量は、全組成中に0〜20質量%であるのが好ましい。 The emulsified composition of the present invention can further contain an oil component other than those described above. For example, hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane and petrolatum; ether oils such as cetyldimethylbutyl ether, ethylene glycol dioctyl ether and glycerol monooleyl ether; octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, di-2 adipate -Ester oils such as ethylhexyl, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, and trioctanoin; higher fatty acids such as stearic acid, behenic acid, and isomyristic acid; dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, amino-modified silicone, carboxy Silicone oil such as modified silicone, alcohol modified silicone, alkyl modified silicone, polyether modified silicone, fluorine modified silicone; Alkyl ethyl phosphate, perfluoroalkyl polyoxyethylene phosphoric acid, a perfluoropolyether, such as fluorine-based oils such as polytetrafluoroethylene. The content of these oily components is preferably 0 to 20% by mass in the entire composition.
また、本発明の乳化組成物は、通常の化粧料に用いられる有効成分や添加剤、例えば、アスコルビン酸、ニコチン酸アミド、ニコチン酸等の水溶性ビタミン類;オウバクエキス、カンゾウエキス、アロエエキス、スギナエキス、茶エキス、キューカンバーエキス、チョウジエキス、ニンジンエキス、ハマメリス抽出液、プラセンタエキス、海藻エキス、マロニエエキス、ユズエキス、アスナロエキス、ローヤルゼリーエキス、ユーカリエキス、アスナロ抽出液等の動・植物抽出液;水酸化カリウム、水酸化ナトリウム、トリエタノールアミン、炭酸ナトリウム等の塩基;クエン酸、酒石酸、乳酸、リン酸、コハク酸、アジピン酸等の酸;カルボキシビニルポリマー、アルギン酸ナトリウム、カラギーナン、カルボキシメチルセルロース、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、グアーガム、キサンタンガム、カルボキシメチルキトサン、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム、オキサゾリン変性シリコーン、N,N−ジメチルアミノエチルメタクリル酸ジエチル硫酸塩・N,N−ジメチルアクリルアミド・ジメタクリル酸ポリエチレングリコール共重合体等の増粘剤などを含有することもできる。 The emulsified composition of the present invention is an active ingredient or additive used in normal cosmetics, for example, water-soluble vitamins such as ascorbic acid, nicotinic acid amide, and nicotinic acid; buckwheat extract, licorice extract, aloe extract, Animal and plant extracts such as horse chestnut extract, tea extract, cucumber extract, clove extract, carrot extract, cranberry extract, placenta extract, seaweed extract, maronier extract, yuzu extract, asunaro extract, royal jelly extract, eucalyptus extract, asunaro extract; Bases such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, sodium carbonate; acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid; carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium alginate, carrageenan, carboxymethylcellulose, hydride Increase in xylethylcellulose, guar gum, xanthan gum, carboxymethyl chitosan, sodium hyaluronate, oxazoline-modified silicone, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl diethyl sulfate / N, N-dimethylacrylamide / poly (ethylene glycol) copolymer It can also contain a sticking agent.
本発明の乳化組成物は、通常の方法により製造することができる。例えば、成分(A)〜(D)(油性成分を含む場合は、成分(A)〜(D)及び油性成分)を含む油相成分を加熱撹拌し、溶解させた後、加熱した成分(E)及び(F)を含む水相成分を混合し、その後撹拌しながら冷却することにより、製造することができる。 The emulsified composition of the present invention can be produced by a usual method. For example, an oil phase component containing components (A) to (D) (in the case of containing an oil component, components (A) to (D) and an oil component) is heated and stirred, dissolved, and then heated (E ) And (F) can be produced by mixing the aqueous phase components and then cooling with stirring.
得られる乳化組成物は、α−ゲル(α型結晶)であり、結晶(γ型結晶)の析出が抑制される。α−ゲルは、X線による構造解析により、確認することができる。α型構造は六方晶系のことであり、親油基が親水基層の面に対して直角に配向しており、Bragg角21〜23°付近に鋭い一本の回折ピークが現れるのが特徴である。 The obtained emulsified composition is α-gel (α-type crystal), and precipitation of crystals (γ-type crystal) is suppressed. The α-gel can be confirmed by structural analysis by X-ray. The α-type structure is a hexagonal system, and the lipophilic group is oriented at right angles to the surface of the hydrophilic base layer, and a sharp diffraction peak appears at a Bragg angle of 21-23 °. is there.
本発明の乳化組成物は、伸びの良さの点から、25℃における粘度が、1000mPa・s〜300000mPa・sであるのが好ましく、2500mPa・s〜100000mPa・sであるのが好ましく、5000mPa・s〜70000mPa・sがより好ましい。
なお、本発明において、粘度は、VISCOMETER TVB−10(東機産業)により測定される。そして、粘度は、低粘度を測定できる条件から測定し、その条件で粘度の上限を超えた場合は、次に高粘度を測定できる条件に変更して測定する。
・粘度250mPa・s以上2500mPa・s未満:ローターNo.M2、回転数12rpm、
・粘度2500mPa・s以上20000mPa・s未満:ローターNo.M3、回転数6rpm、
・粘度20000mPa・s以上160000mPa・s未満:ローターNo.T−B、回転数5rpm
・粘度160000mPa・s以上400000mPa・s未満:ローターNo.T−C、回転数5rpm
The emulsified composition of the present invention preferably has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 1000 mPa · s to 300,000 mPa · s, preferably 2500 mPa · s to 100,000 mPa · s from the viewpoint of good elongation. -70,000 mPa · s is more preferable.
In the present invention, the viscosity is measured by VISCOMETER TVB-10 (Toki Sangyo). And a viscosity is measured from the conditions which can measure a low viscosity, and when it exceeds the upper limit of the viscosity on the conditions, it changes to the conditions which can measure a high viscosity next, and is measured.
Viscosity: 250 mPa · s or more and less than 2500 mPa · s: Rotor No. M2, rotation speed 12rpm,
Viscosity 2500 mPa · s or more and less than 20000 mPa · s: Rotor No. M3, 6 rpm,
Viscosity: 20000 mPa · s or more and less than 160000 mPa · s: Rotor No. TB, 5 rpm
Viscosity: 160,000 mPa · s or more and less than 400,000 mPa · s: Rotor No. TC, 5rpm
また、本発明の乳化組成物は、水中油型乳化組成物であり、例えば、美容液、乳液、クリーム、ジェル等の化粧料や、皮膚外用剤として好適である。
上述した実施形態に関し、本発明は、更に以下の組成物を開示する。
The emulsified composition of the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsified composition, and is suitable for cosmetics such as cosmetic liquids, milky lotions, creams, gels, and external preparations for skin.
This invention discloses the following compositions further regarding embodiment mentioned above.
<1>次の成分(A)、(B)、(C)、(D)、(E)及び(F):
(A)水酸基を2個以上有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が220〜450、有機性値が300〜1000である有機化合物 0.05〜10質量%、
(B)水酸基を1個有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が100〜200、有機性値が280〜700である有機化合物 0.05〜10質量%、
(C)セラミド類 0.05〜15質量%、
(D)ポリオキシエチレン基を有するHLB10以上の非イオン界面活性剤、イオン性界面活性剤及びスフィンゴシン塩類から選ばれる1種以上の化合物 0.05〜5質量%、
(E)N−アミジノ−L−プロリン 0.1〜9質量%、
(F)水
を含有し、成分(A)、(B)、(C)及び(D)の合計含有量が、1.5〜22質量%である乳化組成物。
<1> The following components (A), (B), (C), (D), (E) and (F):
(A) An organic compound having two or more hydroxyl groups, an inorganic value of 220 to 450, an organic value of 300 to 1000, 0.05 to 10% by mass,
(B) an organic compound having one hydroxyl group, an inorganic value of 100 to 200, an organic value of 280 to 700, 0.05 to 10% by mass,
(C) Ceramides 0.05 to 15% by mass,
(D) 0.05 to 5% by mass of one or more compounds selected from nonionic surfactants having a polyoxyethylene group of HLB 10 or more, ionic surfactants and sphingosine salts,
(E) N-amidino-L-proline 0.1-9% by mass,
(F) An emulsified composition containing water and having a total content of components (A), (B), (C) and (D) of 1.5 to 22% by mass.
<2>成分(A)が、好ましくは、無機性値が220〜340、有機性値が380〜840である有機化合物であって、無機性値が250〜340、有機性値が380〜700である有機化合物がより好ましい前記<1>記載の乳化組成物。
<3>成分(A)が、好ましくは、次の一般式(1)
<2> Component (A) is preferably an organic compound having an inorganic value of 220 to 340 and an organic value of 380 to 840, an inorganic value of 250 to 340, and an organic value of 380 to 700. The emulsion composition according to <1>, wherein the organic compound is more preferably.
<3> Component (A) is preferably the following general formula (1)
(式中、Z1は、グリセリン、ソルビタン、ソルビトール又はショ糖残基で2個以上のヒドロキシル基を有する構造を示し、Y1は、エステル結合基又はエーテル結合基を示し、Rは、炭素数14〜22の炭化水素基を示し、nは1〜2の数を示す)
で表されるものである前記<1>又は<2>記載の乳化組成物。
(In the formula, Z 1 represents a structure having two or more hydroxyl groups in a glycerin, sorbitan, sorbitol or sucrose residue, Y 1 represents an ester bond group or an ether bond group, and R represents the number of carbon atoms. 14 represents a hydrocarbon group of 22 to 22 and n represents a number of 1 to 2)
The emulsion composition according to <1> or <2>, which is represented by:
<4>成分(A)が、好ましくは、グリセリンモノ脂肪酸エステル、グリセリンモノアルキルエーテル、ソルビタンモノ脂肪酸エステル、ソルビタンジ脂肪酸エステルであって、グリセリンモノ脂肪酸エステル、グリセリンモノアルキルエーテルがより好ましく、モノベヘン酸グリセリル又はモノセチルグリセリルエーテルがさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<3>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<5>成分(A)の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に0.1質量%以上であって、0.3質量%以上がより好ましく、0.6質量%以上がさらに好ましく、6質量%以下が好ましく、3.5質量%以下がより好ましく、1.5質量%以下がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<4>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<4> Component (A) is preferably glycerin monofatty acid ester, glycerin monoalkyl ether, sorbitan monofatty acid ester, sorbitan difatty acid ester, more preferably glycerin monofatty acid ester or glycerin monoalkyl ether, monobehenic acid The emulsion composition according to any one of <1> to <3>, wherein glyceryl or monocetyl glyceryl ether is more preferable.
The content of <5> component (A) is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, further preferably 0.6% by mass or more in the total composition, The emulsified composition according to any one of <1> to <4>, preferably at most mass%, more preferably at most 3.5 mass%, further preferably at most 1.5 mass%.
<6>成分(B)が、好ましくは、無機性値が100〜182、有機性値が300〜520である有機化合物である前記<1>〜<5>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<7>成分(B)が、好ましくは、炭素数12〜22の高級アルコール、ステロール類であって、高級アルコールは、炭素数14〜22の高級アルコールより好ましく、炭素数16〜18の高級アルコールがさらに好ましく、ミリスチルアルコール、セタノール、ステアリルアルコール、ベヘニルアルコール、オレイルアルコールがよりさらに好ましく、ステロール類は、コレステロール、フィトステロールがより好ましい前記<1>〜<6>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<8>成分(B)の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に0.1質量%以上であって、0.3質量%以上がより好ましく、0.5質量%以上がさらに好ましく、6質量%以下が好ましく、3.5質量%以下がより好ましく、1.5質量%以下がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<7>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<6> The emulsion composition according to any one of <1> to <5>, wherein the component (B) is preferably an organic compound having an inorganic value of 100 to 182 and an organic value of 300 to 520. .
<7> Component (B) is preferably a higher alcohol or sterol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the higher alcohol is more preferably a higher alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and a higher alcohol having 16 to 18 carbon atoms. More preferably, myristyl alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol are more preferable, and the sterol is more preferably cholesterol or phytosterol, <1> to <6>.
The content of <8> component (B) is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, further preferably 0.5% by mass or more in the total composition, The emulsified composition according to any one of the above items <1> to <7>, preferably at most mass%, more preferably at most 3.5 mass%, further preferably at most 1.5 mass%.
<9>成分(C)のセラミド類が、好ましくは、天然由来のセラミド及び擬似型セラミドから選ばれる1種又は2種以上である前記<1>〜<8>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<10>成分(C)の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に0.1質量%以上であって、0.5質量%以上がより好ましく、1質量%以上がさらに好ましく、10質量%以下が好ましく、7質量%以下がより好ましく、3質量%以下がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<9>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<11>成分(D)が、好ましくは、ポリオキシエチレン基を有するHLB10以上の非イオン界面活性剤であって、HLB12.5〜15.5がより好ましく、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、アルキルポリオキシエチレングリセリル、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテルがさらに好ましく、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、モノステアリン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビタンがよりさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<10>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<9> The emulsified composition according to any one of <1> to <8>, wherein the ceramide of component (C) is preferably one or more selected from naturally-occurring ceramides and pseudo-ceramides. object.
The content of <10> component (C) is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, further preferably 1% by mass or more, and 10% by mass in the total composition. The emulsion composition according to any one of the above items <1> to <9>, which is preferably at most 7% by mass, more preferably at most 3% by mass.
<11> Component (D) is preferably a nonionic surfactant having a polyoxyethylene group of HLB 10 or more, more preferably HLB 12.5 to 15.5, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxy Any one of the above items <1> to <10>, wherein ethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, alkyl polyoxyethylene glyceryl, and polyoxyethylene alkyl ether are more preferable, and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate are more preferable. The emulsified composition as described.
<12>成分(D)が、好ましくは、イオン性界面活性剤であって、アニオン界面活性剤、カチオン界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤がより好ましく、アニオン界面活性剤としては、炭素数12〜24の脂肪酸塩、脂肪酸アミドスルホン酸塩、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテルリン酸塩、長鎖N−アシルグルタミン酸塩が好ましく、N−ステアロイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸アルギニン、ポリオキシチレンステアリルエーテルリン酸ナトリウムがより好ましく、カチオン界面活性剤としては、第4級アンモニウム塩が好ましく、アルキルトリメチルアンモニウム塩、ジアルキルジメチルアンモニウム、トリアルキルメチルアンモニウム塩、アルキルアミン塩がより好ましく、両性界面活性剤としては、アルキルジメチルアミンオキシド、アルキルカルボキシベタイン、アルキルスルホベタイン、アミドアミノ酸塩、アルキルアミドプロピルベタインが好ましく、アルキルアミドプロピルベタインがより好ましい前記<1>〜<10>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<13>成分(D)が、好ましくは、スフィンゴシン塩類であって、天然由来のスフィンゴシン類若しくは同構造の合成物、及びその誘導体、又はスフィンゴシン構造を有する擬似型スフィンゴシン類がより好ましい前記<1>〜<10>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<12> Component (D) is preferably an ionic surfactant, more preferably an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or an amphoteric surfactant. The anionic surfactant has 12 to 12 carbon atoms. 24 fatty acid salts, fatty acid amide sulfonates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates, long chain N-acyl glutamates, N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine sodium, N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid arginine, poly Sodium oxyethylene stearyl ether phosphate is more preferable. As the cationic surfactant, a quaternary ammonium salt is preferable, an alkyltrimethylammonium salt, a dialkyldimethylammonium salt, a trialkylmethylammonium salt, and an alkylamine salt are more preferable. With active agent In particular, alkyldimethylamine oxide, alkylcarboxybetaine, alkylsulfobetaine, amide amino acid salt, and alkylamidopropylbetaine are preferable, and alkylamidopropylbetaine is more preferable. <1> to <10> object.
<13> The component (D) is preferably a sphingosine salt, more preferably a naturally occurring sphingosine or a compound having the same structure, and a derivative thereof, or a pseudo-sphingosine having a sphingosine structure <1> ~ Emulsion composition according to any one of <10>.
<14>成分(D)が、好ましくは、アニオン界面活性剤、スフィンゴシン塩類であって、N−ステアロイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム、ポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸アルギニン、フィトスフィンゴシンのグルタミン酸塩、擬似型スフィンゴシンのグルタミン酸塩がより好ましい前記<1>〜<13>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<15>成分(D)の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に0.1質量%以上であって、0.15質量%以上がより好ましく、0.3質量%以上がさらに好ましく、3質量%以下が好ましく、2.2質量%以下がより好ましく、0.8質量%以下がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<14>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<16>成分(A)、(B)、(C)及び(D)の合計含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に2質量%以上であって、3質量%以上がより好ましく、16質量%以下が好ましく、6.5質量%以下がより好ましい前記<1>〜<15>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<14> Component (D) is preferably an anionic surfactant or sphingosine salt, which is sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine, sodium polyoxyethylene stearyl ether phosphate, arginine N-stearoyl-L-glutamate The emulsion composition according to any one of <1> to <13>, wherein glutamate of phytosphingosine and glutamate of pseudo-type sphingosine are more preferable.
The content of <15> component (D) is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.15% by mass or more, further preferably 0.3% by mass or more, in the total composition. The emulsified composition according to any one of the above items <1> to <14>, preferably at most mass%, more preferably at most 2.2 mass%, further preferably at most 0.8 mass%.
<16> The total content of components (A), (B), (C) and (D) is preferably 2% by mass or more, more preferably 3% by mass or more, and more preferably 16% by mass in the total composition. % Or less, and 6.5 mass% or less is more preferable, The emulsion composition in any one of said <1>-<15>.
<17>成分(E)の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に0.3質量%以上であって、0.8質量%以上がより好ましく、7質量%以下が好ましく、5.5質量%以下がより好ましく3.5質量%以下がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<16>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<18>成分(E)に対する成分(A)、(B)、(C)及び(D)の合計の質量割合[((A)+(B)+(C)+(D))/(E)]が、好ましくは、0.4以上であって、0.65以上がより好ましく、0.9以上がさらに好まく、1以上がよりさらに好ましく、1.3以上がよりさらに好ましく、25以下が好ましく、16以下がより好ましく、10以下がさらに好ましく、8以下がよりさらに好ましく、3.8以下がよりさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<17>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<19>成分(F)の水の含有量が、好ましくは、全組成中に50〜98質量%であって、60〜96質量%がより好ましく、70〜95質量%がさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<18>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
The content of <17> component (E) is preferably 0.3% by mass or more, more preferably 0.8% by mass or more, and preferably 7% by mass or less in the total composition, and 5.5% by mass. % Or less, More preferably, 3.5 mass% or less, The emulsion composition in any one of said <1>-<16>.
<18> Mass ratio of components (A), (B), (C) and (D) to component (E) [((A) + (B) + (C) + (D)) / (E )] Is preferably 0.4 or more, more preferably 0.65 or more, more preferably 0.9 or more, still more preferably 1 or more, still more preferably 1.3 or more, and 25 or less. The emulsion composition according to any one of <1> to <17>, wherein 16 or less is more preferred, 10 or less is more preferred, 8 or less is more preferred, and 3.8 or less is even more preferred.
<19> The water content of the component (F) is preferably 50 to 98% by mass in the total composition, more preferably 60 to 96% by mass, and further preferably 70 to 95% by mass. The emulsion composition according to any one of> to <18>.
<20>成分(A)がモノベヘン酸グリセリル又はモノセチルグリセリルエーテル、成分(B)がセタノール、成分(C)がN−(ヘキサデシロキシヒドロキシプロピル)−N−ヒドロキシエチルヘキサデカナミド)、成分(D)がステアロイルグルタミン酸塩又はスフィンゴシン塩類、成分(E)がN−アミジノ−L−プロリン、成分(F)が水である前記<1>〜<19>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<21>25℃における粘度が、好ましくは、1000mPa・s〜300000mPa・sであって、2500mPa・s〜100000mPa・sがより好ましく、5000mPa・s〜70000mPa・sがさらに好ましい前記<1>〜<20>のいずれか1記載の乳化組成物。
<20> Component (A) is glyceryl monobehenate or monocetylglyceryl ether, Component (B) is cetanol, Component (C) is N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide), Component The emulsion composition according to any one of <1> to <19>, wherein (D) is stearoyl glutamate or sphingosine salt, component (E) is N-amidino-L-proline, and component (F) is water.
<21> The viscosity at 25 ° C. is preferably 1000 mPa · s to 300,000 mPa · s, more preferably 2500 mPa · s to 100,000 mPa · s, and further preferably 5000 mPa · s to 70000 mPa · s. 20> The emulsified composition according to any one of 20>.
実施例1〜10及び比較例1〜5
表1及び表2に示す組成の水中油型乳化組成物を製造し、X線による構造解折、伸ばしやすさ、塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じ及び指止まり感を評価した。結果を表1及び表2に併せて示す。
なお、実施例で得られた水中油型乳化組成物は、X線による構造解析によりα−ゲル構造を有することを確認した。
Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-5
An oil-in-water emulsion composition having the composition shown in Tables 1 and 2 was produced, and the structure was broken by X-rays, ease of stretching, the feeling that the skin after application was covered with cosmetics, and the feeling of finger stop were evaluated. . The results are shown in Table 1 and Table 2 together.
In addition, it confirmed that the oil-in-water-type emulsion composition obtained in the Example has an (alpha) -gel structure by the structural analysis by X-ray | X_line.
(製造方法)
成分(A)〜(D)を含む油相成分を、プロペラ撹拌下(300rpm)で80〜95℃で加熱混合して溶解させる。これに、80℃に加熱した成分(E)及び(F)を含む水相成分を加えて乳化した後、プロペラ撹拌(300rpm)をしながら25℃に冷却して、水中油型乳化組成物を得た。
(Production method)
The oil phase component containing the components (A) to (D) is heated and mixed at 80 to 95 ° C. under a propeller stirring (300 rpm) and dissolved. To this, an aqueous phase component containing components (E) and (F) heated to 80 ° C. was added and emulsified, and then cooled to 25 ° C. with propeller stirring (300 rpm) to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion composition. Obtained.
(評価方法)
(1)X線による構造解折:
得られた水中油型乳化組成物について、2θ=10〜30°の広角X線回折ピークより、WilsonとOttの方法(Wilson,D.A. and Ott,E., J.Chem.Phys., 2, 231-238(1934))に従い、結晶構造を決定した。結晶構造についての評価は以下の基準で示した。
A:α型構造が確認された。
B:α型構造が確認されない。
(Evaluation method)
(1) Structural analysis by X-ray:
From the wide-angle X-ray diffraction peak of 2θ = 10-30 °, the obtained oil-in-water emulsion composition was subjected to the method of Wilson and Ott (Wilson, DA and Ott, E., J. Chem. Phys., 2, 231). -238 (1934)), the crystal structure was determined. Evaluation of the crystal structure was shown by the following criteria.
A: α-type structure was confirmed.
B: α-type structure is not confirmed.
(2)伸ばしやすさ:
専門パネラーにより、各乳化組成物0.2gを手の甲の直径6cmの円の大きさに塗布したとき、伸ばしやすさを、明らかに伸びがよいと判断したときを5、明らかに伸びが良くないと判断したときを1とした5段階で評価した。
(2) Ease of extension:
When a specialized panelist applied 0.2 g of each emulsified composition to a circle with a diameter of 6 cm on the back of the hand, it was 5 when it was judged that the elongation was clearly good, and the elongation was clearly not good. The evaluation was made in 5 grades, with 1 being the judgment time.
(3)塗布後の肌がなじんだ化粧料で覆われる感じ:
専門パネラーにより、各乳化組成物0.2gを手の甲の直径6cmの円の大きさに20秒間塗布し、塗布5分後の肌を指で触ったとき、なじんだ化粧料が明らかに肌を覆う感じがあると判断したときを5、明らかに肌を覆う感じがないと判断したときを1とした5段階で評価した。
(3) Feel that the skin after application is covered with familiar cosmetics:
A specialized panelist applied 0.2 g of each emulsified composition to a circle with a diameter of 6 cm on the back of the hand for 20 seconds, and when the skin was touched with a finger 5 minutes after application, the familiar cosmetics clearly covered the skin. The evaluation was made on a five-point scale, with 5 when it was judged that there was a feeling and 1 when it was judged that there was no obvious feeling of covering the skin.
(4)指止まり感:
専門パネラーにより、各乳化組成物0.2gを手の甲の直径6cmの円の大きさに20秒間塗布し、塗布5分後の肌を指で触ったとき、指止まり感について、明らかに指止まり感があると判断したときを5、明らかに指止まり感がないと判断したときを1とした5段階で評価した。
(4) Finger stop feeling:
When a specialist panelist applies 0.2 g of each emulsified composition to a circle with a diameter of 6 cm on the back of the hand for 20 seconds and touches the skin 5 minutes after application with a finger, the finger feel is clearly felt. The evaluation was made on a five-point scale, with 5 when it was determined that there was a finger and 1 when it was clearly determined that there was no sense of fingering.
試験例1(浸透実験)
表4示す乳化組成物について、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンの浸透量を評価した。結果を表4に併せて示す。
Test example 1 (penetration experiment)
About the emulsified composition shown in Table 4, the penetration amount of N-amidino-L-proline was evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 4.
(評価方法)
皮膚の表面を洗浄した後、乳化組成物を2.67×10-3g/cm2 塗布し、30℃で22時間放置した。皮膚を水で湿らせたコットンで洗浄し、乾燥後、皮膚の表面にテープを1回貼り付け、表面残存物を取り除いた。皮膚をBIOPSY PUNCH(直径8mm:カイ インダストリーズ社)で切り取り、1mLの生理食塩水で浸し、超音波処理(20分)を行い、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンを抽出した。抽出液をろ過し(細孔径0.45μm:ADVANTEC)、水で1000倍希釈後、下記条件でLC−MSにより定量分析を行い、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンの浸透量を算出した。
(Evaluation method)
After washing the skin surface, the emulsion composition was applied 2.67 × 10 −3 g / cm 2 and left at 30 ° C. for 22 hours. The skin was washed with cotton moistened with water, and after drying, a tape was applied once to the surface of the skin to remove the surface residue. The skin was cut with BIOPSY PUNCH (diameter 8 mm: Ky Industries Co., Ltd.), soaked in 1 mL of physiological saline, subjected to ultrasonic treatment (20 minutes), and N-amidino-L-proline was extracted. The extract was filtered (pore size 0.45 μm: ADVANTEC), diluted 1000 times with water, and quantitatively analyzed by LC-MS under the following conditions to calculate the permeation amount of N-amidino-L-proline.
(LC−MS条件)
HPLC:Shimazu Nexcera
カラム:Imtakt Scherzo SS-C18 100*2mm
温度:40℃
移動相: A;0.1%ぎ酸/H2O、 B;1%ぎ酸/アセトニトリル (表3)
流速:0.5mL/min
注入量:5μL
MS:Sciex Triple Quad4500
検出:ESIポジティブ、158.1/70.1
(LC-MS conditions)
HPLC: Shimazu Nexcera
Column: Imtakt Scherzo SS-C18 100 * 2mm
Temperature: 40 ° C
Mobile phase: A; 0.1% formic acid / H 2 O, B; 1% formic acid / acetonitrile (Table 3)
Flow rate: 0.5mL / min
Injection volume: 5μL
MS: Sciex Triple Quad4500
Detection: ESI positive, 158.1 / 70.1
試験例2(浸透実験)
表5(実施例11)及び表6(比較例6)に示す乳化組成物について、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンの浸透量を評価した。結果を表5及び表6並びに図1に示す。
実施例11で得られた水中油型乳化組成物は、X線による構造解析によりα−ゲル構造を有することを確認し、比較例6はα−ゲル構造を有しないことを確認した。
Test example 2 (penetration experiment)
About the emulsified composition shown in Table 5 (Example 11) and Table 6 (Comparative Example 6), the penetration amount of N-amidino-L-proline was evaluated. The results are shown in Tables 5 and 6 and FIG.
The oil-in-water emulsion composition obtained in Example 11 was confirmed to have an α-gel structure by X-ray structural analysis, and Comparative Example 6 was confirmed not to have an α-gel structure.
(評価方法)
皮膚の表面を洗浄した後、その皮膚の上に、直径0.75cmの円柱状の穴が開いた厚さ2cmのプレートを固定した。そして、円柱状の穴の中に乳化組成物を1mL/1.77cm2入れ、30℃で22時間放置した。その後、皮膚を水洗浄後、乾燥させ、皮膚の表面にテープを1回貼り付け、表面残存物を取り除いた。皮膚をBIOPSY PUNCH(直径8mm:カイ インダストリーズ社)で切り取り、1mLの生理食塩水で浸し、超音波処理(20分)を行い、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンを抽出した。抽出液をろ過し(細孔径0.45μm:ADVANTEC)、水で1000倍希釈後、下記条件でLC−MSにより定量分析を行い、N−アミジノ−L−プロリンの浸透量を算出した。
(Evaluation method)
After washing the surface of the skin, a 2 cm thick plate with a cylindrical hole having a diameter of 0.75 cm was fixed on the skin. Then, 1 mL / 1.77 cm 2 of the emulsified composition was placed in a cylindrical hole and left at 30 ° C. for 22 hours. Thereafter, the skin was washed with water and dried, and a tape was applied once to the surface of the skin to remove surface residue. The skin was cut with BIOPSY PUNCH (diameter 8 mm: Ky Industries Co., Ltd.), soaked in 1 mL of physiological saline, subjected to ultrasonic treatment (20 minutes), and N-amidino-L-proline was extracted. The extract was filtered (pore size 0.45 μm: ADVANTEC), diluted 1000 times with water, and quantitatively analyzed by LC-MS under the following conditions to calculate the permeation amount of N-amidino-L-proline.
(LC−MS条件)
試験例1と同様な条件で行った。
(LC-MS conditions)
The test was performed under the same conditions as in Test Example 1.
Claims (6)
(A)水酸基を2個以上有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が220〜450、有機性値が300〜1000である有機化合物 0.05〜10質量%、
(B)水酸基を1個有する有機化合物であって、無機性値が100〜200、有機性値が280〜700である有機化合物 0.05〜10質量%、
(C)セラミド類 0.05〜15質量%、
(D)ポリオキシエチレン基を有するHLB10以上の非イオン界面活性剤、イオン性界面活性剤及びスフィンゴシン塩類から選ばれる1種以上の化合物 0.05〜5質量%、
(E)N−アミジノ−L−プロリン 0.1〜9質量%、
(F)水
を含有し、成分(A)、(B)、(C)及び(D)の合計含有量が、1.5〜22質量%である乳化組成物。 The following components (A), (B), (C), (D), (E) and (F):
(A) An organic compound having two or more hydroxyl groups, an inorganic value of 220 to 450, an organic value of 300 to 1000, 0.05 to 10% by mass,
(B) an organic compound having one hydroxyl group, an inorganic value of 100 to 200, an organic value of 280 to 700, 0.05 to 10% by mass,
(C) Ceramides 0.05 to 15% by mass,
(D) 0.05 to 5% by mass of one or more compounds selected from nonionic surfactants having a polyoxyethylene group of HLB 10 or more, ionic surfactants and sphingosine salts,
(E) N-amidino-L-proline 0.1-9% by mass,
(F) An emulsified composition containing water and having a total content of components (A), (B), (C) and (D) of 1.5 to 22% by mass.
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JP2018203730A (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2018-12-27 | 花王株式会社 | Skin Cosmetic |
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WO1998015260A1 (en) * | 1996-10-08 | 1998-04-16 | Kao Corporation | Wrinkling modifiers |
JP2005336112A (en) * | 2004-05-27 | 2005-12-08 | Kao Corp | Skin cosmetic |
JP2007022997A (en) * | 2005-07-21 | 2007-02-01 | Kao Corp | Emulsified composition |
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WO1998015260A1 (en) * | 1996-10-08 | 1998-04-16 | Kao Corporation | Wrinkling modifiers |
JP2005336112A (en) * | 2004-05-27 | 2005-12-08 | Kao Corp | Skin cosmetic |
JP2007022997A (en) * | 2005-07-21 | 2007-02-01 | Kao Corp | Emulsified composition |
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JP7086719B2 (en) | 2017-05-30 | 2022-06-20 | 花王株式会社 | Skin cosmetics |
JP2020199467A (en) * | 2019-06-11 | 2020-12-17 | 花王株式会社 | Production method of emulsion composition |
JP7482608B2 (en) | 2019-06-11 | 2024-05-14 | 花王株式会社 | Method for producing emulsion composition |
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