JP5517511B2 - Manufacturing method for cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for producing a cosmetic material having excellent stability.

  α-gel is a hydrated crystal structure and has a lamellar structure. Most of the stratum corneum intercellular lipids present in the outermost stratum corneum also have this α-gel structure, and at the same time suppress the invasion of substances from the outside and the evaporation of moisture from the inside to the skin. , By itself retaining moisture, it has the function of maintaining the skin's flexibility and smooth appearance. In the skin, the stratum corneum retains about 33% of water in the form of bound water, and intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum are about 13% of bound water (where bound water is bound to constituent molecules). It is reported that the water is retained (non-patent document 1). When such an α-gel is supplemented by external use, it is expected that, as with the stratum corneum intercellular lipid, it can contain a lot of water during drying and can maintain a moist feeling.

  However, α-gel is a metastable phase, and ceramide has a strong hydrogen bond in the long plane direction (direction perpendicular to the bilayer), so that it becomes a most stable phase γ-crystal phase in a short time. It will change. Therefore, in order to obtain an α-gel excellent in temperature-resistant storage stability, an amphiphilic solid fat component other than ceramide is combined and emulsified with an ionic surfactant. In the method, the composition of the solid fat component is limited, and an α-gel excellent in stability cannot be obtained unless a large amount of surfactant is used. On the other hand, there is a method of emulsifying ceramide using sphingosines (Patent Document 1), but there are cases where the amount of oil or ceramide that can be blended is limited.

Sasakawa Genso, Oil Chemistry, 44, 10, 51-66 (1995)

JP 2003-171229 A

  An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a cosmetic material having an α-gel structure with excellent stability, in which crystallization of ceramides is suppressed without using a large amount of a surfactant.

  The present inventors added ceramide crystals by adding an aqueous phase containing a neutralizing agent to an oil phase containing a ceramide and an unneutralized surfactant having a specific ionic functional group. It was found that a cosmetic having an α-gel structure excellent in storage stability can be obtained.

The present invention includes the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D):
(A) an unneutralized surfactant having a sulfate group, a sulfo group or a phosphate residue, a polyoxyethylene alkyl ether acetic acid having an alkyl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or a higher fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms,
(B) Ceramides,
(C) the neutralizing agent of component (A),
(D) A method for producing a cosmetic containing water, wherein components (A) and (B) are dissolved by heating, and an aqueous phase containing components (C) and (D) is added to the mixture while stirring, The present invention provides a method for producing a cosmetic, characterized by being brought to room temperature while stirring.

  According to the present invention, without using a large amount of a surfactant, crystallization of ceramides can be suppressed, and a cosmetic excellent in temperature-resistant storage stability can be produced.

The component (A) used in the present invention is an unneutralized surfactant having a sulfate group, a sulfo group or a phosphate residue, a polyoxyethylene alkyl ether acetic acid having an alkyl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or a carbon number 12 to 22 higher fatty acids.
Examples of the unneutralized surfactant having a sulfuric acid group include alkyl sulfuric acid and polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfuric acid, and the surfactant having a sulfo group includes N-acyl-N-methyltaurine and alkylsulfonic acid. , Alpha olefin sulfonic acid, higher fatty acid ester sulfonic acid, alkyl sulfone succinic acid and the like, and non-neutralized surfactant having a phosphoric acid residue include alkyl phosphoric acid, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphoric acid and the like. Can be mentioned. As an alkyl group in these surfactants, those having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly those having 12 to 14 carbon atoms are preferable.
The higher fatty acids are those having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and those having 12 to 16 carbon atoms are particularly preferable.

More specifically, as component (A), lauryl sulfate, polyoxyethylene (2) lauryl ether sulfate, N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine, lauryl sulfonic acid, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether phosphate, polyoxyethylene lauryl Examples include ether acetic acid, polyoxyethylene myristyl ether acetic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and behenic acid.
Among these, those having a sulfate group or a phosphate group are preferable, and those having a sulfate group are more preferable.

  As the component (A), one or more kinds can be used, and 0.01 to 10% by mass, particularly 0.1 to 5% by mass, and further 0.2 to 2% by mass are contained in the total composition. It is preferable from the viewpoint of structuring and feel of the component (B).

  Component (B) used in the present invention is ceramides. Examples of ceramides include those represented by the general formula (1).

(In the formula, R ¹ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group or hydrogen atom having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group. Z represents a methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom; X ¹ , X ² and X ³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group, and X ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group; or shown, together with the adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group (provided that when Z is a methine group, either X ¹ and X ² is a hydrogen atom, is .X ⁴ the other is absent X ³ is not present when forming an oxo group.); R ² and R ³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; R ⁴ is a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or A A linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 60 carbon atoms which may have an ether bond, ester bond or amide bond in the main chain, which may be substituted by a mino group R ⁵ represents a hydrogen atom, or may have a substituent selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group, and is a linear or branched chain having 1 to 30 carbon atoms in total A saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group (provided that when R ¹ is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R ⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms in total, and R ¹ is a hydrocarbon group) ⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in total); the broken line indicates that it may be an unsaturated bond)

In the formula, R ¹ is a straight chain having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably a hydroxyl group 7 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group, A branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group or a hydrogen atom.
Z represents a methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom.

X ¹ , X ² and X ³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group. In particular, 0 to ¹ of X ¹ , X ² and X ³ are preferably hydroxyl groups, and the remainder is preferably a hydrogen atom. When Z is a methine group, only ^one of X ¹ and X ² is a hydrogen atom, and the other does not exist. X ⁴ is preferably a hydrogen atom or a glyceryl group.
R ² and R ³ represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group, preferred R ² is a hydrogen atom or a hydroxymethyl group, and preferred R ³ is a hydrogen atom.

R ⁴ is a linear, branched or branched chain having 5 to 60 carbon atoms which may have an ether bond, an ester bond or an amide bond in the main chain, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a carboxy group or an amino group. A cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group is shown. Preferably, the hydroxyl group or amino group may be substituted a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 35 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group at the ω position of the hydrocarbon group In which a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be substituted, is an ester bond or an amide bond. As the fatty acid to be bonded, isostearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or linoleic acid is preferable.

R ⁵ represents a hydrogen atom, or may have a substituent selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. It is a saturated hydrocarbon group. When R ¹ is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R ⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms in total. When R ¹ is a hydrocarbon group, R ⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in total. In particular, a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in which 1 to 3 groups selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group and an alkoxy group may be substituted is preferable. Here, as a hydroxy alkoxy group and an alkoxy group, a C1-C7 thing is preferable.

The ceramides represented by the general formula (1) are particularly preferably ceramides represented by the following general formula (2) or (3).
(I) Naturally-derived ceramides represented by the general formula (2) or synthetic products having the same structure and derivatives thereof (hereinafter referred to as natural ceramides).

(Wherein R ¹¹ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group; Z ₁ represents a methylene group or a methine group; X ⁵ , X ⁶ and X ⁷ each independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group; X ⁸ represents a hydrogen atom or together with an adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group. (However, when Z ₁ is a methine group, _one of X ⁵ and X ⁶ is a hydrogen atom and the other does not exist. When X ⁸ forms an oxo group, X ⁷ does not exist.); R ¹² represents a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; R ¹³ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R ¹⁴ has 5 to 30 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group Whether it is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group Or a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group at the ω-terminal of the alkyl group; Indicates that it may be a bond.)

Preferably, R ¹¹ is a linear alkyl group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms, more preferably 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R ¹⁴ is a linear alkyl group having 9 to 27 carbon atoms that may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, or linoleic acid Is a straight-chain alkyl group having 9 to 27 carbon atoms with an ester bond. X ⁸ preferably represents a hydrogen atom or forms an oxo group together with an oxygen atom. In particular, R ¹⁴ is preferably tricosyl, 1-hydroxypentadecyl, 1-hydroxytricosyl, heptadecyl, 1-hydroxyundecyl, or a nonacosyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded to the ω position.

  Specific examples of natural ceramides include ceramides Type 1 to 7 in which sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine or sphingadienin is amidated (for example, J. Lipid Res., 24: 759 (1983), FIG. And porcine and human ceramides described in FIG. 4 of J. Lipid. Res., 35: 2069 (1994)).

Furthermore, these N-alkyl bodies (for example, N-methyl body) are also included.
These ceramides may be either natural (D (−)) optically active or non-natural (L (+)) optically active, or a mixture of natural and nonnatural. May be used. The relative configuration of the above compound may be a natural configuration, a non-natural configuration other than that, or a mixture thereof. In particular, compounds of CERAMIDE1, CERAMIDE2, CERAMIDE3, CERAMIDE5, CERAMIDE6II (above, INCI, 8th Edition) and those represented by the following formula are preferable.

These may be any of natural extracts and synthetic products, and commercially available products can be used.
Such commercially available natural ceramides are Ceramide I, Ceramide III, Ceramide IIIA, Ceramide IIIB, Ceramide IIIC, Ceramide VI (above, Cosmo Farm), Ceramide TIC-001 (Takasago Inc.), CERAMIDE II (Quest International), DS-Ceramide VI, DS-CLA-Phytoceramide, C6-Phytoceramide, DS-ceramide Y3S (DOOSAN), CERAMIDE2 (Cedama).

(II) A pseudo-ceramide represented by the general formula (3).

(In the formula, R ¹⁵ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group or a hydrogen atom having 10 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group; X ⁹ represents a hydrogen atom; , An acetyl group or a glyceryl group; R ¹⁶ is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group or an amino group; Or a hydrocarbon group having an ester bond with a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group at the ω-terminal; R ¹⁷ represents a hydrogen atom; Or a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group or an acetoxy group which may be substituted is an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms in total.

R ¹⁶ is particularly nonyl, tridecyl, pentadecyl, an undecyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded to the ω position, a pentadecyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded to the ω position, and a pentadecyl group in which 12-hydroxystearic acid is ester-bonded to the ω position. An undecyl group in which methyl branched isostearic acid is amide-bonded at the ω position is preferred.

R ¹⁷ is an alkyl having a total carbon number of 10 to 30, preferably a total carbon number of 12 to 20, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group or an acetoxy group when R ¹⁵ is a hydrogen atom. When R ¹⁵ is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, What shows a C1-C8 alkyl group which the hydroxyl group, the hydroxy alkoxy group, an alkoxy group, or an acetoxy group may substitute is preferable. The hydroxyalkoxy group or alkoxy group for R ¹⁷ is preferably one having 1 to 7 carbon atoms.

In general formula (3), R ¹⁵ is a hexadecyl group, X ⁹ is a hydrogen atom, R ¹⁶ is a pentadecyl group, R ¹⁷ is a hydroxyethyl group; R ¹⁵ is a hexadecyl group, X ⁹ is a hydrogen atom, and R ¹⁶ is R ¹⁶ Preferred are pseudoceramides having a nonyl group, R ¹⁷ is a hydroxyethyl group; or R ¹⁵ is a hexadecyl group, X ⁹ is a glyceryl group, R ¹⁶ is a tridecyl group, and R ¹⁷ is a 3-methoxypropyl group. 3) R ¹⁵ is a hexadecyl group, X ⁹ is a hydrogen atom, R ¹⁶ is a pentadecyl group, and R ¹⁷ is a hydroxyethyl group (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide). Is particularly preferred.

  One or more ceramides of component (B) can be used, and are contained in the total composition in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by mass, particularly 0.01 to 7% by mass, and further 0.1 to 5% by mass. Is preferable because ceramide can be sufficiently permeated into the skin.

  The neutralizing agent for component (C) is not particularly limited as long as it can neutralize component (A), and examples thereof include alkali metal hydroxides, organic amines, and basic amino acids. More specifically, alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide; organic amines such as triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol; basic amino acids such as L-arginine Is mentioned. Of these, alkali metal hydroxides and organic amines are preferred.

  One or more neutralizing agents for the component (C) can be used, and the total composition is 0.005 to 5% by mass, particularly 0.05 to 2.5% by mass, and further 0.1 to 1% by mass. It is preferable that it is contained because the component (A) can be sufficiently neutralized. In addition, when the molar ratio is in the relationship of 10: 5 to 10:15, and further 10: 8 to 10:12 in the relationship between the components (A) and (C), the component (A) is sufficiently neutralized. From the viewpoint of emulsion stability of cosmetics.

  Component (D) is water that becomes a solvent for cosmetics. Component (D) is the balance of each component, and specifically, it is preferably 20 to 99.9% by mass, particularly 40 to 95% by mass, and more preferably 50 to 90% by mass in the total composition. .

The cosmetic produced in the present invention may further contain (E) one or more compounds selected from higher alcohols having 14 to 22 carbon atoms and sterols.
Among the components (E), higher alcohols have 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and examples include myristyl alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and the like.
Of these, those having a linear alkyl group are preferred, and cetanol and stearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.

  Moreover, cholesterol and phytosterol are mentioned as sterols. Phytosterol is a general term for plant sterols such as β-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, and brassicasterol, and the composition thereof is not particularly limited.

  As the component (E), one or more kinds can be used, and 0.001 to 10% by mass, particularly 0.05 to 7% by mass, and further 0.1 to 3% by mass is contained in the total composition. This is preferable because the temperature storage stability is improved. During production, the component (E) is preferably mixed and dissolved together with the components (A) and (B).

  The cosmetic produced according to the present invention further comprises (F) general formula (4):

(In the formula, Z ¹ is a structure showing polyglycerin, sorbitan, sorbitol or sucrose and has two or more hydroxy groups, and Y ¹ shows an ester bond or an ether bond, or In the structure, Z ¹ represents glycerin, has two or more hydroxy groups, Y ¹ represents an ether bond, R represents a hydrocarbon group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and n represents 1 Indicates a number of ~ 4)
The compound represented by these can be contained.

In the formula, the hydrocarbon group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms represented by R is preferably a linear hydrocarbon group, for example, a linear alkyl group such as a myristyl group, a palmityl group, a stearyl group, a behenyl group; a palmitoyl group; An oleyl group etc. are mentioned.
Examples of the compound represented by the general formula (4) include polyglycerin monofatty acid ester, polyglycerin difatty acid ester, sorbitan monofatty acid ester, sorbitan difatty acid ester, sorbitol monofatty acid ester, sorbitan difatty acid ester, and sucrose monofatty acid ester. And glycerin monoalkyl ether.

More specifically, diglyceryl distearate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitol monopalmitate, sucrose laurate, sucrose oleate, glyceryl stearyl ether, glycerin paryl ether Examples include methyl ether and glycerin isostearyl ether. These may be liquid or solid at 20 ° C., but are preferably solid from the viewpoint of stability.
As the component (F), glycerol monoalkyl ether is particularly preferable.

  One or more types of component (F) can be used, and 0.001 to 10% by mass, particularly 0.05 to 7% by mass, and further 1 to 5% by mass is contained in the total composition. It is preferable because storage stability is increased. During production, component (F) is preferably mixed and dissolved together with components (A) and (B).

It is preferable to add a polyhydric alcohol to the cosmetic produced in the present invention because the storage stability is further enhanced. Examples of the polyhydric alcohol include glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside, and polyethylene glycol. In particular, glycerin, 1,3-butanediol, polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside, and polyethylene glycol are preferable.
One or more polyhydric alcohols can be used, and it is preferably contained in the whole composition in an amount of 50% by mass or less, particularly 0.01 to 20% by mass. The polyhydric alcohol may be mixed with any of the mixture of components (A) and (B) or the mixture of components (C) and (D) at the time of production.

In the present invention, the oil phase component containing the components (A) and (B) is dissolved by heating, and the aqueous phase containing the components (C) and (D) is added to this while stirring, followed by further stirring. However, by bringing to room temperature, an emulsion in which ceramides have an α-gel structure is produced. As described above, the components (E) and (F) are preferably mixed with the components (A) and (B) and dissolved by heating. Moreover, various cooling methods, such as air cooling and water cooling, can be used to bring it to room temperature.
When the water of component (D) is mixed with the mixture of components (A) and (B) and emulsified, the whole amount may be added, or when only a part is added and then cooled to room temperature The rest may be added.

  In the present invention, at the time of production, the components (A) and (B) to be used are in a liquid state, and are preferably 70 ° C. or higher, particularly preferably 80 ° C. or higher. It is particularly preferable to carry out at 95 ° C. or lower.

  Conventionally, in emulsification of ceramides, a method in which neutralized surfactant and ceramide are mixed and water is added to emulsify, and a neutralized surfactant dissolved in water and ceramide are mixed and emulsified in general. A known emulsification method is known. In the present invention, ceramides and an unneutralized surfactant are mixed and dissolved, and then mixed with water in which the neutralizing agent is dissolved. In the conventional methods, crystallization of ceramides has progressed due to long-term storage, and the ceramide crystals have been supplied to the market as a dispersion of ceramide crystals. Therefore, when applied to the skin, there is a problem that the permeability of ceramide is low and the function of ceramide cannot be obtained sufficiently. However, by adopting the production method as in the present invention, the crystallization of ceramide is suppressed and the α-gel structure can be formed and maintained. As a result, the skin permeability of ceramides is improved, and a more effective cosmetic can be obtained.

  Furthermore, in this invention, crystallization suppression of ceramides can be heightened by adding a component (E) and (F). By mixing the components (A) and (B) and the component (E) or the component (F) at the time of production, the orientation dispersibility of the component (B) is increased, so that the precipitation of the component (B) as crystals is further improved. It can be suppressed. In particular, when the higher alcohol of the component (E) has a branched chain, when the alkyl chain length of the component (F) has a branched chain, an α-gel structure with high mobility is formed. It will be higher. Furthermore, in the present invention, by including a polyhydric alcohol, the crystallization of the component (B) can be further suppressed, and the permeability to the skin can be improved.

In the present invention, in particular, in the components (B), (C), (E), (F)
(E) :( F) = 95: 5-5: 95,
(C) / ((B) + (E) + (F)) is 0.05 to 0.75,
(F) / ((B) + (E) + (F)) is 0.05 to 0.5,
(B) / ((B) + (E) + (F)) is 0.05 to 0.75
In this case, it is possible to obtain a cosmetic material that is superior in terms of stability during long-term storage and use feeling.

  The cosmetic obtained by the present invention is an emulsified composition and is α-gel (α-type crystal), and the precipitation of crystals (γ-type crystal) is suppressed. The α-gel can be confirmed by structural analysis by X-ray. The α-type structure is a hexagonal system, and the lipophilic group is oriented perpendicular to the surface of the hydrophilic base layer, and a sharp single diffraction peak appears in the vicinity of a Bragg angle of 21 to 23 °. is there.

  Stirring during emulsification is preferably carried out with a propeller or the like at 20 to 1000 r / min, particularly 200 to 1000 r / min, and more preferably 200 to 800 r / min. Moreover, it is preferable to add 1500-10000 r / min, especially 4500-9000 r / min stirring with a homomixer after this stirring. The emulsification time is preferably 1 to 20 minutes, particularly preferably 5 to 20 minutes. When emulsification is carried out at a heating temperature, it is cooled to room temperature at a temperature lowering rate of 0.1 to 20 ° C./min, more preferably 0.1 to 10 ° C./min, particularly 0.1 to 5 ° C./min. Is preferred.

  The cosmetic thus produced is in a transparent, translucent or cloudy state. Here, transparent and translucent refer to those having a turbidity (kaolin standard: turbidity of purified kaolin of 1 ng / 1 liter of water is 1 ppm of turbidity of 1 ppm) measured with an integrating sphere photoelectric scattering photometer. The average particle size of the oil droplets of the emulsion is 3 nm to 200 μm, and is appropriately manufactured according to the appearance and use, but is 5 nm to 50 μm, particularly 5 nm to 10 μm in view of the appearance and stability of the emulsion. Is preferred. The average particle size is measured with a dynamic light scattering particle size distribution analyzer (HORIBA LB-500) or a laser diffraction / scattering particle size distribution analyzer (HORIBA LA-920).

  The cosmetics produced in the present invention can be applied as a translucent lotion, translucent milky lotion, moisturizing serum, whitening cosmetic liquid, moisturizing milk, moisturizing cream and the like.

Furthermore, it is preferable to add a fluorine-based oil or silicone to the cosmetic produced in the present invention because the emulsion stability and the feeling in use are improved. The fluorinated oil or silicone is preferably mixed with the components (A) and (B).
As the fluorine-based oil, the following general formula (5)

(In the formula, R ²¹ represents a linear or branched alkyl group having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, k represents an integer of 1 or 2, and Rf represents the number of carbon atoms optionally having a hydrogen atom at the terminal carbon atom. 3 to 20 linear or branched fluorocarbon groups)
The compound represented by these is mentioned.

R ²¹ is preferably an alkyl group having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly preferably a hexyl group, an octyl group, a decyl group or a dodecyl group. The group represented by Rf is preferably a fluorine-substituted alkyl group having a chain length of 6 to 12 carbon atoms.
One or more fluorine-based oils can be used, and the total amount is preferably 50% by mass or less, particularly preferably 0.01 to 10% by mass.

Examples of silicone include cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane, chain dimethylpolysiloxane, polymer dimethylsiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, amino modified silicone, carboxy modified silicone, alkyl modified silicone, polyether modified silicone, alcohol modified silicone. And modified silicones such as fluorine-modified silicone.
One or more types of silicone can be used, and the total composition is preferably 50% by mass or less, particularly preferably 0.01 to 10% by mass.

  In addition to the above components, components used in normal cosmetics can be appropriately used as necessary. For example, humectants such as glycine betaine, xylitol, trehalose, urea, neutral amino acids, basic amino acids; water-soluble thickeners such as xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl guar gum; squalane, liquid paraffin, isotridecyl isononanoate, Oil agents such as cholesteryl isostearate; medicinal agents such as allantoin and tocopherol acetate; cationic surfactants such as dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride; nonionic surfactants such as polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil and polyoxyethylene alkyl ether; cellulose Organic powders such as powder, nylon powder, cross-linked silicone powder, cross-linked methylpolysiloxane, porous cellulose powder, porous nylon powder; anhydrous silica, zinc oxide, Inorganic powder such as titanium, other such as menthol, cooling agents such as camphor, plant extract, pH buffering agents, antioxidants, ultraviolet absorbers, preservatives, perfumes, fungicides, etc. dyes.

Example 1
To a 100 mL emulsifying tank, 0.3 g of stearic acid (melting point 69 ° C.) and pseudoceramide (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) (melting point 70 ° C.) 4.0 g are added, After dissolution by heating at 80 ° C., the mixture was stirred at 80 ° C. and 300 r / min for 10 minutes. Subsequently, a mixed solution of 0.18 g of L-arginine and 95.52 g of water was added over 1 minute with stirring while maintaining the temperature of the emulsification tank at 80 ° C., and emulsified. Under stirring, the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a rate of 1 ° C./min to produce a cosmetic.

Example 2
In a 100 mL emulsifying tank, 0.42 g of polyoxyethylene (4) lauryl ether acetic acid (melting point 69 ° C.), pseudoceramide (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) (melting point 70 ° C. ) 4.0 g was added, heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., and then stirred at 80 ° C. and 300 r / min for 10 minutes. Subsequently, a mixed solution of 0.18 g of L-arginine and 95.4 g of water was added and emulsified with stirring for 1 minute while maintaining the temperature of the emulsification tank at 80 ° C. Furthermore, after stirring for 5 minutes at 80 ° C. and 9000 r / min with a homomixer, the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a temperature lowering rate of 1 ° C./min with stirring to produce a cosmetic.

Example 3
In a 100 mL emulsification tank, 0.5 g of monocetyl phosphoric acid (melting point: 50 ° C.), ceramides (Ceramide TIC-001) (melting point: 100 ° C.) 4.0 g, and cetyl alcohol (melting point: 50 ° C.) 1.0 g are added at 95 ° C. After dissolution by heating, the mixture was stirred at 90 ° C. and 300 r / min for 10 minutes. Subsequently, a mixed solution of 0.15 g of sodium hydroxide and 94.35 g of water was added over 1 minute with stirring while maintaining the temperature of the emulsification tank at 90 ° C., and emulsified. Furthermore, after stirring for 5 minutes at 90 ° C. and 9000 r / min with a homomixer, the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a temperature lowering rate of 1 ° C./min with stirring to produce a cosmetic.

Example 4
In a 100 mL emulsifying tank, monocetyl phosphate 0.34 g, pseudoceramide (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) (melting point 70 ° C.) 4.0 g, glycerin 10.0 g, water 2 0.0 g was added, heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., and then stirred at 80 ° C. and 300 r / min for 10 minutes. Next, a mixed solution of 0.37 g of L-arginine and 83.29 g of water was added over 1 minute while emulsifying while maintaining the temperature of the emulsification tank at 80 ° C., and emulsified. Under stirring, the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a rate of 1 ° C./min to produce a cosmetic.

Example 5
In a 100 mL emulsifying tank, polyoxyethylene (2) lauryl sulfate 0.5 g, pseudoceramide (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) (melting point 70 ° C.) 4.0 g, dimethyl After adding 5.0 g of polysiloxane and dissolving by heating at 80 ° C., the mixture was stirred at 80 ° C. and 300 r / min for 10 minutes. Next, a mixed solution of 0.065 g of sodium hydroxide, 10.0 g of glycerin and 80.435 g of water was added and emulsified with stirring for 1 minute while maintaining the temperature of the emulsification tank at 80 ° C. Under stirring, the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a rate of 1 ° C./min to produce a cosmetic.

Example 6
In a 100 mL emulsifying tank, 0.5 g of N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine, pseudoceramide (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) (melting point 70 ° C.) 4.0 g, glycerin 10.0 g was added and heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., followed by stirring at 80 ° C. and 300 r / min for 10 minutes. Then, a mixed solution of 0.21 g of L-arginine and 81.29 g of water was added at a temperature of While maintaining at a temperature of C and stirring, the mixture was added over 1 minute to emulsify. Thereafter, 3.0 g of dimethylpolysiloxane and 1.0 g of squalane were added, and the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a temperature lowering rate of 1 ° C./min to produce a cosmetic.

Example 7
In a 100 mL emulsification tank, 0.2 g of palmitic acid (melting point 63 ° C.), pseudoceramide (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) (melting point 70 ° C.) 2.0 g, glycerin 10 0.0 g was added, heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., and then stirred at 80 ° C. and 300 r / min for 10 minutes. Subsequently, a mixed solution of 0.13 g of L-arginine and 77.47 g of water was added over 1 minute while emulsifying while maintaining the temperature of the emulsification tank at 80 ° C., and emulsified. The mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a temperature drop rate of 1 ° C./min, and then a mixed solution of 0.2 g of carboxyvinyl polymer and 10 g of water was added to produce a cosmetic.

Example 8
In a 100 mL emulsification tank, 0.5 g of monocetyl phosphoric acid (melting point 69 ° C.), pseudoceramide (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) (melting point 70 ° C.) 4.0 g, cetyl alcohol (Melting point 50 ° C.) 1.5 g, monocetyl glyceryl ether (melting point 60 ° C.) 1.5 g, glycerin 10.0 g, dimethylpolysiloxane 5.0 g, squalane 3.0 g, olive oil 2.0 g are added, and at 80 ° C. After dissolution by heating, the mixture was stirred at 80 ° C. and 300 r / min for 10 minutes. Subsequently, a mixed solution of 0.61 g of L-arginine, 0.2 g of xanthan gum and 71.69 g of water was added and emulsified with stirring for 1 minute while maintaining the temperature of the emulsification tank at 80 ° C. Under stirring, the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a rate of 1 ° C./min to produce a cosmetic.

  All the cosmetics obtained in Examples 1 to 8 were confirmed to have an α-gel structure and were stable as an emulsion for 3 months at room temperature.

Comparative Example 1
Add a mixed solution of stearic acid (melting point 69 ° C) 0.3g, L-arginine 0.18gg and water 95.52g to a 100mL emulsifying tank, heat and dissolve at 80 ° C, then 80 ° C, 300r / min for 10 minutes. Stir. Next, while maintaining the temperature of the emulsification tank at 80 ° C., 4.0 g of pseudo-ceramide (i) (melting point: 70 ° C.) was added with stirring. Under stirring, the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a rate of 1 ° C./min to produce a cosmetic.

Comparative Example 2
To a 100 mL emulsification tank, 4.0 g of pseudo-ceramide (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) is added, dissolved by heating at 80 ° C., then 10 ° C. at 80 ° C. and 300 r / min. Stir for minutes. Then, a mixed solution of 0.18 g of L-arginine and 95.52 g of water was added over 1 minute while maintaining the temperature of the emulsification tank at 80 ° C., and finally polyoxyethylene (4) lauryl ether. Acetic acid (melting point 69 ° C.) 0.3 g was added and emulsified. Under stirring, the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a rate of 1 ° C./min to produce a cosmetic.

Comparative Example 3
To a 100 mL emulsification tank, 4.0 g of pseudo-ceramide (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) (melting point: 70 ° C.) is added, dissolved at 80 ° C. by heating, and then monocetyl phosphate 0 .34 g, a mixed solution of L-arginine 0.37 g and water 95.29 g was added over 1 minute while maintaining the temperature of the emulsification tank at 80 ° C., and stirred for 10 minutes at 80 ° C. and 300 r / min. Stir. Under stirring, the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a rate of 1 ° C./min to produce a cosmetic.

Comparative Example 4
In a 100 mL emulsification tank, pseudo-ceramide (N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) (melting point 70 ° C.) 4.0 g, dimethylpolysiloxane 5.0 g, squalane 3.0 g, olive oil After adding 2.0 g and heating and dissolving at 80 ° C., a mixed solution of N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine 0.5 g, L-arginine 0.21 g and water 85.29 g is added, and the temperature of the emulsification tank is 80 ° C. While maintaining and stirring, the mixture was added over 1 minute and stirred at 80 ° C. and 300 r / min for 10 minutes. Under stirring, the mixture was cooled to 25 ° C. at a rate of 1 ° C./min to produce a cosmetic.

  None of the cosmetics obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 4 showed an α-gel structure, was unstable even as an emulsion, and crystal precipitation and a decrease in viscosity were confirmed.

Claims (7)

The following components (A), (B), (C) , (D) and (F) :
(A) Unneutralized surfactant having a sulfate group, a sulfo group or a phosphate residue, or carbon number 1
Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether acetic acid having 2 to 22 alkyl groups 0.01 to
10% by mass,
(B) Ceramides 0.001 to 10% by mass,
(C) Neutralizing agent of component (A) 0.005 to 5% by mass,
(D) water,
(F) General formula (4):

(In the formula, Z ¹ is a structure showing polyglycerin, sorbitan, sorbitol or sucrose.
Whether it has two or more hydroxy groups and Y ¹ represents an ester bond or an ether bond
Or in the formula, Z ¹ is a structure showing glycerin, and has two or more hydroxy groups,
Y ¹ represents an ether bond, R represents a hydrocarbon group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and n represents 1 to 4
Indicates the number of
0.001 to 10% by mass of a compound represented by
The ingredients (A) , (B) and (F) are dissolved by heating, and the aqueous phase containing the ingredients (C) and (D) is added to this while stirring, A method for producing a cosmetic, characterized by being brought to room temperature while stirring. Further, component (E) 1 selected from higher alcohols having 14 to 22 carbon atoms and sterols
The production method according to claim 1, wherein the compound of two or more species is mixed with the components (A) and (B) and dissolved by heating. Furthermore, in component (A), (C), molar ratio is 10: 5-10: 15, The manufacturing method of the cosmetics of Claim 1 or 2 . Furthermore, in component (E), (F), it is (E) :( F) = 95: 5-5: 95 The manufacturing method of the cosmetics of Claim 2 or 3 . Further, in the components (B), (C), (E), (F), (C) / ((B) + (E) + (
F)) is cosmetic of preparation of any one of claims 2 to 4 is 0.05 to 0.75. Furthermore, component (B), (E), in (F), (F) / ((B) + (E) + (F)) is one of the claims 2 to 5, from 0.05 to 0.5 A method for producing a cosmetic according to claim 1. Furthermore, component (B), (E), in (F), (B) / ((B) + (E) + (F)) is any of claims 2-6 is 0.05 to 0.75 A method for producing a cosmetic according to claim 1.