JP6332902B2 - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition suitable for pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and foods for increasing the stratum corneum moisture content and obtaining firm skin.

  The skin consists of the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue from the outside, and has a role of protecting the living body from external stimuli by its barrier function. The dermis and epidermis of the skin are composed of epidermal cells, fibroblasts, dermal extracellular matrix and the like. Hyaluronic acid forms a dermal extracellular matrix together with collagen, elastin and the like, and is outside of cells such as epidermis cells and fibroblasts and supports the skin structure. In the young skin, the interaction between these skin tissues maintains the homeostasis, so that moisture retention, flexibility, elasticity, etc. are ensured, and the appearance of elasticity and gloss is maintained.

  A stratum corneum further exists in the outermost layer of the epidermis. The stratum corneum is the part where cells consisting of stratum corneum in layers 10 to 20 arrive at the end. In keratinocytes, natural moisturizing factors such as amino acids, urea, and lactic acid are present, and these bind to water to retain moisture and maintain skin flexibility. As the stratum corneum goes to the outside, dead cells without nuclei are seen. However, the barrier function of the stratum corneum, such as the function of retaining moisture and preventing drying, is greatly related to the beauty of the skin.

  However, the amount of water in the stratum corneum decreases due to external factors such as dryness, ultraviolet rays, and internal factors such as aging, aging and visceral diseases, stress, etc., resulting in a decrease in the skin barrier function, rough skin and dry skin, It is said to cause various dermatitis. Therefore, it is indispensable to develop a moisturizing agent that maintains the stratum corneum moisture content in the cosmetics field and dermatological field.

  Conventionally, a method of keeping the skin surface moisturized by applying a cosmetic or food containing hyaluronic acid has been used. However, this hyaluronic acid is a kind of linear acidic mucopolysaccharide composed of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucuronic acid, and because of its high molecular weight, especially when it is used as an external preparation, Difficult to penetrate. Therefore, an external preparation containing hyaluronic acid itself only exhibits a moisturizing effect on the skin surface and cannot be expected to fundamentally improve the skin condition. Therefore, it has been studied to add acetylglucosamine, glucuronic acid, etc. to the skin lotion for external use (Patent Documents 1 to 3), but it can be said that the improvement of the moisture retention and the elasticity of the skin by these is still sufficient. There wasn't.

JP 2001-002551 A JP 2003-081778 A JP 2004-075629 A

  The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition capable of improving moisture retention, increasing the amount of moisture in the stratum corneum and keeping the skin firm.

  The inventors of the present invention provide a composition containing (A) uridine or a derivative thereof and (B) any one or more compounds selected from acetylglucosamine, glucuronic acid, and derivatives thereof for pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food applications. When used, the moisture content of the stratum corneum can be increased to improve the moisture retention, and it has been found that it is suitable for cosmetic use, and the present invention has been completed. Specifically, the present invention provides the following.

(1) A cosmetic composition comprising (A) uridine or a derivative thereof and (B) at least one selected from acetylglucosamine, glucuronic acid, a salt of glucuronic acid, and derivatives thereof. object.
(2) containing (A) uridine or a derivative thereof; (B1) acetylglucosamine or a derivative thereof; and (B2) glucuronic acid, a salt of glucuronic acid, and at least one selected from these derivatives. The cosmetic composition according to (1), characterized in that
(3) The cosmetic composition according to (1) or (2), wherein the component (A) is uridine phosphoric acid or a salt thereof.
(4) The cosmetic composition according to (1), which is encapsulated in a liposome.
(5) A medicine, cosmetic or food comprising the cosmetic composition according to any one of (1) to (4).

  ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, moisture retention can be improved and the amount of stratum corneum moisture can be increased, and the firmness of the skin can be maintained, which can be suitably used for cosmetic purposes.

  Hereinafter, although embodiment of this invention is described, this invention is not limited to these at all.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises (A) uridine or a derivative thereof and (B) at least one compound selected from acetylglucosamine, glucuronic acid, a salt of glucuronic acid, and derivatives thereof.

  Uridine is one of pyrimidine nucleosides and is one of nucleosides having a structure in which uracil is connected to the ribose ring by a β-N1-glycoside bond. Examples of uridine derivatives that can be used in the present invention include uridine phosphates such as uridine monophosphate (uridylic acid), uridine diphosphate, and uridine triphosphate, or physiologically acceptable salts thereof. Can be mentioned. As the salt, metal salts such as potassium and sodium can be used. You may use together 1 type, or 2 or more types among these in the composition of this invention.

  The amount of component (A) in the composition is not particularly limited as long as it is sufficient to help increase the amount of hyaluronic acid in the stratum corneum of component (B), but is 0.000001 based on the total amount of the composition. It is preferable to set it as mass% or more, and it is still more preferable to set it as 0.00001 mass% or more. The upper limit is preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less. Moreover, it is preferable that the molar ratio of component (A) and (B) is used in the range of 1: 2 to 2: 1.

（但し、Ｒ^１は水素原子又は炭素数２〜１８のアルキル基である。Ｒ^２、Ｒ^３及びＲ^４は水素原子又は炭素数２〜１８のアシル基であり、すべてが同じであっても何れかが異なっていてもよい。また、１位の立体構造はαあるいはβのどちらであってもよい。但し、Ｒ^１、Ｒ^２、Ｒ^３、Ｒ^４のすべてが水素原子であってはならない。） Acetylglucosamine is a monosaccharide in which the 2-position hydroxyl group of glucose is substituted with an acetylamino group. Any of synthetic products, fermentation products, degradation products obtained from chitin degradation such as crabs, shrimp, etc. can be used and is not particularly limited. In addition, examples of the derivative include those represented by the following chemical formula (1).

(However, R ¹ is a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 2 to 18 carbon atoms. R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are a hydrogen atom or an acyl group having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, and all are the same. Any one of them may be different, and the steric structure at the 1-position may be either α or β provided that R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are all hydrogen atoms. Must not.)

  More specifically, octyl (2-acetamido-2-deoxy) β-D-glucopyranoside, 2-acetamido-1,3,4,6-tetra-O-acetyl-2-deoxy-β-D-glucopyranoside, 2-acetamido-2-deoxy-6-O-octanoyl-α-D-glucopyranose, octyl (2-acetamido-2-deoxy-6-O-octanoyl) β-D-glucopyranoside, butyl (2-acetamido-2 -Deoxy) β-D-glucopyranoside, pentyl (2-acetamido-2-deoxy) β-D-glucopyranoside, lauryl (2-acetamido-2-deoxy) β-D-glucopyranoside, 2-acetamido-2-deoxy-6 -O-palmitoyl-α-D-glucopyranose, geranyl (2-acetamido-2-deoxy ) Β-D-glucopyranoside, ethyl (2-acetamido-3,4,6-tri-O-acetyl-2-deoxy) β-D-glucopyranoside, pentyl (2-acetamido-3,4,6-tri-O) -Acetyl-2-deoxy) β-D-glucopyranoside, octyl (2-acetamido-3,4,6-tri-O-acetyl-2-deoxy) β-D-glucopyranoside, geranyl (2-acetamido-3,4 , 6-tri-O-acetyl-2-deoxy) β-D-glucopyranoside and the like, but are not limited thereto. Moreover, these may use 2 or more types together.

  Glucuronic acid is a sugar having a skeleton structure of glucose having 6 carbon atoms and a carboxyl group at the C6 position, and is one of typical uronic acids. A product obtained by selectively oxidizing glucose derivatives from starch, etc. using nitric acid or strong acid to convert them to carboxylic acids, hydrolyzing the oxidation products, or by converting glucose directly to glucuronic acid by microorganisms, etc. Any of these can be used and is not particularly limited. In addition, potassium salts, sodium salts, and other physiologically acceptable salts thereof can be used. Further, examples of the derivative include glucuronolactone, glucuronoxylan and the like. Two or more of these may be used in combination.

  The amount of the component (B) selected from these acetylglucosamine, glucuronic acid or derivatives thereof to the composition of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is sufficient to increase the firmness and moisture content of the skin. Based on the total amount of the composition, it is preferably 0.000001% by mass or more, and more preferably 0.00001% by mass or more. The upper limit is preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less.

  The composition of the present invention may contain either acetylglucosamine or a derivative thereof (B1), or glucuronic acid and a derivative thereof (B2), but the component (B1) and the component (B2) are used in combination. Is preferred. In this case, the ratio of the component (B1) to the component (B2) may be a molar ratio in the range of 2: 1 to 1: 2.

  The composition of the present invention increases the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin to improve the moisture retention, and can improve the firmness of the skin or maintain a good skin state. The composition can be used in medicine, cosmetics or food. The form can also be arbitrarily selected according to the purpose. In other words, it can take various forms such as tablets, creams, ointments, emulsions, solutions, gels and the like, packs, lotions (skin lotions), powders, sticks, and the like. In particular, when used as a cosmetic, use as a skin external preparation is preferable from the viewpoint of ease of use.

  The composition of the present invention may be added as it is to a pharmaceutical, cosmetic, or food, but may be added after encapsulating in a microcapsule. For example, it is preferable to use liposome, which is a microcapsule made of phospholipid and having a particle size of several tens to several hundreds of nm, in order to maximize the effects of the above components.

  Liposomes are lipid bilayers or multilayers composed mainly of phospholipids, and have a structure similar to that of cell membranes. In the cosmetics field, traditionally, active ingredients with whitening, moisturizing and antioxidant effects have been delivered to the skin. As a means, it has been common to encapsulate active ingredients in liposomes. The above-mentioned active ingredient of the present invention is encapsulated in, for example, an internal aqueous phase of liposome.

  In the present invention, various known methods can be adopted without particular limitation as applicable liposome production methods. For example, (1) prepared by dissolving lipid in an organic solvent, removing the solvent under reduced pressure to form a thin film, adding an aqueous solution such as a buffer solution to swell with shaking, and further peeling the thin film with a mechanical stirring means (2) A method in which a lipid is dissolved in an organic solvent such as ether or ethanol, poured into an aqueous solution such as a buffer solution, and then prepared by removing the solvent. Further, as a mechanical method, (3 ) Method by sonication, (4) Method by high-pressure homogenizer or high-speed rotary disperser, (5) Method by high-pressure filtration using polycarbonate membrane filter, (6) Oil phase with lipid dissolved in the upper part of water phase There is known a method in which a droplet is introduced into an oil phase, and the droplet is dragged into a water phase by a force of centrifugation. In addition, (7) a method in which lipid is dissolved in an organic solvent compatible with water, such as ethanol, and then replaced with water through a dialysis membrane.

  When used as a medicine, cosmetics or food, the above-mentioned components are essential components, and other components such as an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, Ionic surfactants, viscosity modifiers, oils, powders (dyes, resins, pigments, etc.), preservatives, fragrances, moisturizers, physiologically active ingredients, salts, solvents, antioxidants, chelating agents, pearling agents, Components such as a neutralizer, a pH adjuster, and an enzyme can be appropriately blended. Although the specific example of a mixing | blending component is shown below, it is not restricted to these.

  Examples of the anionic surfactant include α-acyl sulfonate, alkyl sulfonate, alkyl allyl sulfonate, alkyl naphthalene sulfonate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate, alkyl amide sulfate, polyoxy Ethylene alkyl ether sulfate, polyoxyethylene alkylamide ether sulfate, alkyl phosphate, alkylamide phosphate, alkyloylalkyl taurate, N-acyl amino acid salt, sulfosuccinate, perfluoroalkyl phosphate, etc. Can be mentioned.

  Examples of amphoteric surfactants include glycine type, aminopropionic acid type, carboxybetaine type, sulfobetaine type, sulfonic acid type, sulfuric acid type, phosphoric acid type, and the like. 2-alkyl-N- is preferable. Examples thereof include carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethylimidazolinium betaine, coconut oil fatty acid amidopropyl betaine and the like. Also, phospholipids such as lecithin can be used in addition to the purpose of forming liposomes.

  Nonionic surfactants include fatty acid alkanolamide, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, alkyl An amine oxide etc. are mentioned.

  Examples of viscosity modifiers include acrylic amides and derivatives thereof, carboxyvinyl polymers, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymers, cellulose, keratin and collagen or derivatives thereof, calcium alginate, pullulan, agar, gelatin, tamarind seed polysaccharide, xanthan gum, Carrageenan, high methoxyl pectin, low methoxyl pectin, guar gum, gum arabic, crystalline cellulose, arabinogalactan, caraya gum, tragacanth gum, alginic acid, albumin, casein, curdlan, gellan gum, dextran and the like.

  Examples of the oil agent include volatile and non-volatile oil agents, solvents, and resins that are usually used in cosmetics, and may be liquid, paste, or solid at room temperature. Examples of oils include higher alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, fatty acids such as isostearic acid, undecylenic acid, oleic acid, myristyl myristate, hexyl laurate, myristine Octyldodecyl acid, decyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, hexyl decyl dimethyloctanoate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diethyl phthalate, ethylene glycol monostearate, octyl oxystearate, cholesteryl stearate, Cholesterol esters such as cholesteryl oleate and branched fatty acid cholesteryl, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, petroleum jelly and squalane, lanoli Waxes such as reduced lanolin, carnauba wax, mink oil, cacao butter, palm oil, palm kernel oil, camellia oil, sesame oil, castor oil, olive oil, dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, etc. Silicone oil etc. are mentioned.

  Examples of powders include red No. 201, yellow No. 4, blue No. 1, black No. 401 and other dyes, yellow No. 4 Al lake, yellow No. 203 Ba lake and other lake dyes, nylon powder, silk powder and silicone powder. , Cellulose powder, silicone elastomer spherical powder, resin such as polyethylene powder, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, chromium oxide, carbon black, colored pigments such as ultramarine and bitumen, white pigments such as zinc oxide and titanium oxide, talc, Body pigments such as mica, sericite, kaolin, pearl pigments such as titanium mica, metal salts such as barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium silicate, inorganic powders such as silica and alumina, bentonite, smectite, nitriding Boron etc. are mentioned. There are no particular restrictions on the shape of these powders (spherical, rod-like, needle-like, plate-like, indeterminate, flake-like, spindle-like, etc.).

  Examples of the physiologically active ingredient include substances that impart some physiological activity to the skin when applied to the skin. For example, anti-aging agents, UV protection agents, squeeze agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, blood circulation promoters, antibacterial agents, bactericides, desiccants, cooling agents, warming agents, vitamins, amino acids, wound healing promoters , Stimulation mitigating agents, analgesics, cell activators, enzyme components and the like.

  Next, the present invention will be described in more detail based on examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

(Example 1, Comparative Examples 1-5)
By preparing a solution having the composition shown in Table 1 and treating the solution with a microfluidizer, each lipid bilayer vesicle used in Examples and Comparative Examples containing uridine, acetylglucosamine or glucuronic acid was prepared. did. The non-liposome solution in Table 1 is a mixture of acetylglucosamine and purified water.

Using the above-mentioned lipid bilayer membrane vesicles, the lotions of Examples and Comparative Examples were prepared by a conventional method at the blending ratio shown in Table 2.

<Evaluation method>
Ten monitors were arbitrarily extracted, an application site was set inside the forearm, and an appropriate amount of the test sample was applied twice in the morning and evening. The period of use was one week.

  The stratum corneum moisture content was measured using a stratum corneum moisture meter SKICON-200EX (made by IBS) when not applied and one week after application of each evaluation sample. When the stratum corneum water content before coating was 100, the increase / decrease ratio of the stratum corneum water content after coating was calculated.

At the same time, a questionnaire survey on the improvement of “skin elasticity” was conducted using the following criteria.
Improved: 1 point, not improved: 0 point, evaluated by the total score.

  From the above results, it was found that disodium uridine phosphate, acetylglucosamine, and sodium glucuronate were combined together into a lipid bilayer membrane rather than a single body in which disodium uridine phosphate, acetylglucosamine, and sodium glucuronate were encapsulated in a lipid bilayer membrane. It was confirmed that the amount of moisture contained in the stratum corneum increased with the inclusion. Similar results were also seen in improving skin firmness. Furthermore, from Comparative Examples 2 and 5, the moisture content was slightly improved when encapsulated in lipid bilayer vesicles.

Claims (3)

(A) uridine or a derivative thereof;
(B 1 ) acetylglucosamine or a derivative thereof;
(B2) at least one selected from glucuronic acid, a salt of glucuronic acid, and derivatives thereof;
Only including, cosmetic skin external composition characterized in that it is encapsulated in liposomes (where a skin external preparation containing a gymnastics extract as an essential component, and, adenosine 5'-monophosphate and a salt thereof Except for the composition for promoting collagen production containing at least one purine nucleic acid-related substance selected from the group consisting of: (A) component, cosmetic skin external composition according to claim 1, characterized in that a uridine acid or a salt thereof. A pharmaceutical or cosmetic product comprising the cosmetic external composition for skin according to claim 1 or 2 .