KR101682452B1 - Liquid crystal base for recovering disrupted skin barrier and cosmetic composition comprising the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a liquid crystal base for improving resilience of skin barrier and a cosmetic composition comprising the same, wherein the liquid crystal base includes N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramide, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, emulsifier and oil. The liquid crystal base of the present invention is more excellent in liquid crystal formation and skin barrier restoration effect than a liquid crystal base made of a sterol component, exhibits long-term formulation stability at various temperatures, has excellent skin regeneration effect, and is applied to a cosmetic composition for restoring skin barrier .

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD [0001] The present invention relates to a liquid crystal base for restoring a skin barrier, and a cosmetic composition containing the same. BACKGROUND ART < RTI ID = 0.0 >

The present invention relates to a liquid crystal base for improving resilience of skin barrier and a cosmetic composition comprising the same, wherein the liquid crystal base includes N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramide, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, emulsifier and oil.

The skin is largely divided into three layers: epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue in order from the outside. It functions to protect the internal organs of the body from changes in temperature and humidity, ultraviolet rays, and other physical and chemical external stimuli. In particular, the epidermis plays an important role in preventing water evaporation inside the human body. The epidermis is divided into the stratum corneum, granular layer, the superficial layer and the basal layer in order from the outside. Cells of the stratum corneum act like bricks, and interstitial lipids between keratinocytes act like mortar to constitute skin barrier (J. Invest. Dermatol 80 (Suppl.), 44-49, 1983). In addition, a healthy human keratinocyte has a high concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) to help maintain moisture in the skin. For example, substances such as amino acids are water-soluble, ( J. Invest . Dermatol . 54, 24-31, 1970).

However, as it is nowadays, there is a tendency to control the temperature of the air / heating due to changes in environment or life patterns, skin stress due to various stresses and environmental pollution occurring in the social life, frequent washing according to makeup habits, Due to various causes such as aging of skin and the like, moisture of the stratum corneum decreases, and the skin becomes dry, the surface becomes rough, the skin becomes loose, the luster is lost and the skin looks dull, and the necessity of the skin moisturizing agent is increased have.

(Niacinamide), which strengthens the skin barrier function and maintains the homeostasis of the skin by promoting the expression of the ceramide, the pilar green and the like, is incorporated in the external preparation for skin, or the ceramide is directly introduced into the external preparation for skin. These approaches are favored in recent years as a technique that helps to maintain homeostasis and is a fundamental approach to moisturizing ( J. Invest . Dermatol . (5), 731-740, 1994) Ceramides are very poorly soluble crystalline materials and have been used in cosmetic formulations using liquid crystal emulsification techniques.

Conventional liquid crystal bases have been made by using cholesterol derivatives alone or in combination of two or more, or by using cholesterol, vitamin derivatives and lecithin in combination, and by adding a small amount of the liquid crystal base thus formed to a gel base, lotion, foundation, To provide a cosmetic composition. Specific examples include U.S. Patent No. 4,999,348, and Japanese Patent Laid-Open Nos. 4-112807 and 3-034097. However, cholesterol liquid crystals are particularly susceptible to temperature because their usability is oily, and they become sour as time goes by, and there is an unpleasant smell of the raw material itself, which is careful when used in cosmetics and is thermotropic.

United States Patent No. 4,999,348 (published on March 12, 1991) Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-112807 (published Apr. 14, 1992) Japanese Patent No. 3-034097 (published May 29, 1993)

Accordingly, the present inventors have found that, in developing a liquid crystal base containing no cholesterol and a sterol component, it is possible to provide a liquid crystal composition containing N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramide, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, emulsifier, The liquid crystal base exhibits excellent liquid crystal formation, and is excellent in skin regeneration function and skin barrier improvement effect, thus completing the present invention.

Accordingly, it is a first object of the present invention to provide a liquid crystal base containing N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramides, fatty alcohols, emulsifiers, fatty acids and oils.

A second object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition comprising the liquid crystal base.

A third object of the present invention is also a liquid crystal base component comprising a) N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramide, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, emulsifier and oil; And an aqueous phase comprising polyol and water, respectively, to 70 to 90 캜; And

b) a step of mixing and emulsifying the liquid crystal base component and the water phase respectively heated in step a), followed by cooling to 35 to 60 ° C .; and a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition for restoring skin barrier, .

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a liquid crystal base comprising N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramide, fatty alcohol, emulsifier, fatty acid and oil.

Wherein the liquid crystal base comprises 0.3 to 1.4 parts by weight of N-acetyl phytosphingosine, 0.1 to 5 parts by weight of ceramide, 0.5 to 15 parts by weight of fatty alcohol, 2 to 15 parts by weight of emulsifier, 1 to 10 parts by weight of fatty acid, Parts by weight.

The supraglass ceramide may be at least one selected from the group consisting of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 3B, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, and ceramide 6.

The fatty alcohol may be at least one selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

The emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan stearate, But may be at least one selected from the group consisting of stearate, sorbitol oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, hydrogenated lecithin and hydrogenated palm glycerides.

The fatty acid may be at least one selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidonic acid, lauric acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid.

The oil may be one or more selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, liquid paraffin, paraffin wax, squalane, and lipophilic vegetable oil.

In order to achieve the second object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising the liquid crystal base.

The cosmetic composition may comprise 70 to 90% by weight of water, including polyol and purified water, and 10 to 30% by weight of the liquid crystal base.

The cosmetic composition may contain the polyol in an amount of 10 to 25% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The polyol may be at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol .

The cosmetic composition may be any one selected from the group consisting of lotion, essence, cream, cleansing, make-up base, foundation, sunscreen, lip gloss, gel and paste.

In order to achieve the third object, the present invention provides a liquid crystal display comprising: a) a liquid crystal base component comprising N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, emulsifiers and oils; And an aqueous phase comprising polyol and water, respectively, to 70 to 90 캜; And

b) a step of mixing and emulsifying the liquid crystal base component and the water phase respectively heated in step a), followed by cooling to 35 to 60 ° C .; and a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition for restoring skin barrier, to provide.

The liquid crystal base of the present invention is a liquid crystal base prepared by replacing the sterol component with N-acetyl phytosphingosine, and is more excellent in liquid crystal formation and skin barrier recovery effect than the liquid crystal base made of the sterol component, And can be applied to a cosmetic composition for skin cosmetics.

Fig. 1 is a photograph of Examples 2 and 17 observed with an optical microscope for comparison of liquid crystal formation. Fig.

The present invention provides a liquid crystal base comprising N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramides, fatty alcohols, emulsifiers, fatty acids and oils.

In the present invention, the 'liquid crystal base' is an intermediate state between a solid and a liquid. The liquid crystal base of the present invention includes N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramide, fatty alcohol fatty alcohol, fatty acid, emulsifier and oil, the hydrophilic moiety means a system in which the hydrophilic moieties form hydrophobic moieties and the hydrophobic moieties are uniformly arranged between the hydrophobic moieties to form solid and durable multilayers.

The liquid crystal diameter of the liquid crystal base may be, but is not limited to, 2 to 30 占 퐉, and preferably 10 to 20 占 퐉.

The liquid crystal base of the present invention has more clear liquid crystal formation than the liquid crystal base prepared by adding sterol, and has a much better skin barrier recovery effect. Therefore, the liquid crystal base can be applied to cosmetics for skin barrier improvement, and it can be applied to cosmetics for skin regeneration because skin cell recovery is excellent and skin regeneration effect can be realized. In addition, it can be effectively used as a cosmetic which can prevent or ameliorate skin dryness, atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, psoriasis or the like caused by incomplete function of skin barrier.

N-acetyl phytosphingosine (N-acetyl phytosphingosine) is a natural antimicrobial ingredient that is present in the stratum corneum at about 1 to 3%. It is mainly used for acne treatment. In addition, the N-acetyl phytosphingosine is a precursor of ceramide, which is a constituent of lipids of the skin, and is quickly absorbed into the skin, so that it is sedated even at a low concentration. The following is the structure of N-acetyl phytosphingosine.

Ceramide, a kind of sphingolipids, plays an important role in forming and maintaining lipid barrier as an important constituent of the stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of the skin. Part of the ceramides present in the stratum corneum is formed by ceramidase and phytosphingosine Sphingosine, and the double phytosphingosine serves to protect the human body against microbial penetration in the stratum corneum of the human body.

The ceramides included in the liquid crystal base of the present invention may be at least one ceramide selected from the group consisting of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 3B, ceramide 4, ceramide 5 and ceramide 6 although not limited thereto. Preferably, it may be ceramide 3.

'Ceramide 3' refers to a raw material synthesized by the condensation reaction of 9,10,16-trihydroxypalmitic acid and alkyloxy-3-hydroxy-2-aminopropane, and this raw material contains ceramide (C ₃₃ H ₆₇ O ₆ N: 573.0). The following is the structure of Ceramide 3.

The fatty alcohols may be, but are not limited to, one or more substances selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. It may preferably be cetearyl alcohol.

The fatty acid may be, but is not limited to, one or more substances selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidonic acid, lauric acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid. Preferably stearic acid.

Such emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, sorbitan palmitate, And may be one or more substances selected from the group consisting of stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitol oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, hydrogenated lecithin and hydrogenated palm glyceride. Glyceryl stearate or glyceryl oleate, preferably glyceryl ester, and more preferably glyceryl stearate.

The oil may be, but is not limited to, one or more substances selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, liquid paraffin, paraffin wax, squalane and lipophilic plant path. And preferably caprylic / capric triglyceride.

The ratio of the components contained in the liquid crystal base of the present invention is not limited thereto, but is preferably 0.3 to 1.4 parts by weight of N-acetyl phytosphingosine, 0.1 to 5 parts by weight of ceramide, 0.5 to 15 parts by weight of fatty alcohol, 1 to 10 parts by weight of fatty acid and 2 to 15 parts by weight of oil. At this ratio, liquid crystal formation is very pronounced, and formulation stability for a long period at low temperature and high temperature is exhibited, and excellent skin barrier recovery function is exhibited. The skin barrier recovery rate (%) of the liquid crystal base may be 65 to 99%, and preferably 80 to 99%.

When the amount of N-acetyl phytosphingosine is less than 0.3 part by weight, antibacterial activity, penetration ability of the liquid crystal into the skin and formation of liquid crystals are weak. When the amount of N-acetyl phytosphingosine is more than 1.4 parts by weight, the liquid crystals may not be well formed. Further, when the amount is less than 0.3 parts by weight or more than 1.4 parts by weight, the formulation stability is very poor.

When the amount of the ceramide is less than 0.1 part by weight, the degree of appearance of the liquid crystal type may be decreased with time. When the amount of the ceramide is more than 3 parts by weight, the crystallization accelerates and the stability of the formulation may be deteriorated.

When the amount of the fatty alcohol is less than 0.5 parts by weight, emulsification is difficult and liquid crystal formation may be difficult. When the amount of the fatty alcohol is more than 15 parts by weight, the liquid crystal may not be formed due to an increase in viscosity.

 When the amount of the emulsifier is less than 2 parts by weight, sufficient emulsifying power can not be obtained and liquid crystal can not be formed. When the amount of the emulsifier is more than 15 parts by weight, the liquid crystal may not be formed due to an increase in viscosity.

When the amount of the fatty acid is less than 1 part by weight, the emulsifying power for forming the liquid crystal is not sufficient and the liquid crystal is not formed well. When the amount of the fatty acid is more than 10 parts by weight, the acidity is increased and the hardness and viscosity are increased.

If the amount of the oil is less than 2 parts by weight, the surface of the skin may not be restored, moisturized, spreadable and permeable to deteriorate the liquid crystal formation, and if it is more than 15 parts by weight, the liquid crystal may aggregate due to high polarity.

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising the liquid crystal base.

The cosmetic composition may include, but is not limited to, 70 to 90% by weight of water, including polyol and purified water, and 10 to 30% by weight of the liquid crystal base. The polyol may include, but is not limited to, 10 to 25% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

When the amount of the polyol is less than 10% by weight, no feeling of use is added, and the liquid crystal has many irregular emulsified particles, and the particle size becomes too large to cause cracks. When the content of the emulsified particles is more than 25% by weight, the distribution of the emulsified particles becomes dense and the multi-phase structure in the form of a liquid crystal may be broken, and the size of the particles may become too small to have a multi-phase shape.

The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol, although not limited thereto. , And preferably a mixture of glycerin and pentylene glycol. When glycerin and pentylene glycol are included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention as a polyol, they may include, but are not limited to, 1 to 20% by weight of glycerin and 2 to 9% by weight of pinterine glycol relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition .

The liquid crystal base of the present invention may further comprise a cosmetic active ingredient and the cosmetic active ingredient may be included in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, % Can be included.

As the cosmetic active ingredient, physiologically active substances for enhancing the functionality of the cosmetic may be included, and they may be understood as well known to those skilled in the art as raw materials for cosmetics that can be purchased and used commercially. Examples of the physiologically active substances include vitamins such as water-soluble vitamins including vitamin B group and vitamin C group, vitamin A group such as retinol and retinol palmitate, fat-soluble vitamins such as vitamin D group, vitamin E group and vitamin F group, , Arbutin, hyaluronic acid, and the like, which can be purchased and used commercially. The cosmetic active ingredient may preferably be a water-soluble vitamin.

The ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention include components commonly used in cosmetic compositions in addition to the liquid crystal base, and include customary adjuvants such as stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, pigments and fragrances, and carriers.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be prepared in any formulations conventionally produced in the art and may be in the form of solutions, suspensions, emulsions, lotions, essences, pastes, gels, creams, powders, , A makeup base, a powder foundation, an emulsion foundation, a wax foundation, a sunscreen, a lip gloss and a spray, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Preferably, it may be prepared from any one selected from the group consisting of lotion, essence, cream, cleansing, makeup base, foundation, sunscreen, lip gloss, gel and paste.

When the formulation of the present invention is a paste, a cream or a gel, an animal oil, a vegetable oil, a wax, a paraffin, a starch, a tracer, a cellulose derivative, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talc, Can be used.

When the formulation of the present invention is a powder or a spray, lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate or polyamide powder may be used as a carrier component. In the case of a spray, in particular, / Propane or dimethyl ether.

When the formulation of the present invention is a solution or an emulsion, a solvent, a dissolving agent or an emulsifying agent is used as a carrier component, and examples thereof include water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, , 1,3-butylglycol oil, glycerol aliphatic ester, polyethylene glycol or fatty acid esters of sorbitan.

When the formulation of the present invention is a suspension, a carrier such as water, a liquid diluent such as ethanol or propylene glycol, a suspending agent such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene sorbitol ester and polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester, Microcrystalline cellulose, aluminum metahydroxide, bentonite, agar or tracant, etc. may be used.

When the formulation of the present invention is cleansing, it may contain a surfactant and may contain as a carrier component an aliphatic alcohol sulfate, aliphatic alcohol ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid monoester, isethionate, imidazolinium derivative, methyltaurate, Fatty acid amide ether sulfate, alkylamido betaine, aliphatic alcohol, fatty acid glyceride, fatty acid diethanolamide, vegetable oil, lanolin derivative, or ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid ester.

The present invention relates to a liquid crystal display comprising: a) a liquid crystal base component comprising N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, emulsifiers and oils; And an aqueous phase comprising polyol and water, respectively, to 70 to 90 캜;

b) mixing and emulsifying the liquid crystal base component and the water phase heated in step a), and cooling the solution to 35 to 60 ° C.

The step a) is a step of manufacturing the liquid crystal base and the image receiving part, and the step b) is a step of manufacturing the liquid crystal base by emulsifying the liquid crystal base and the image receiving part manufactured in the step a). The proportions of the materials and materials are the same as those described for the liquid crystal base.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. It is to be understood that the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples in accordance with the gist of the present invention, and it is to be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited thereto It will be obvious.

Example

≪ Production of liquid crystal base &

Components 3 to 8 described in Tables 1 to 4 below were heated to 80 DEG C using N-acetyl phytosphingosine (Abcam Biochemical) to prepare a liquid crystal base in a transparent liquid state.

≪ Production of cosmetic composition containing liquid crystal base >

In the following Tables 1 to 4, the water-insoluble components "purified water and glycerin" were heated to 80 ° C, mixed with the liquid crystal base prepared above, emulsified with a TK Homomixer Mark at 3000 RPM for 10 minutes, cooled to 45 ° C Then, raw materials 9 and 10 were added and emulsified at the same RPM and for a time to prepare a cosmetic composition containing a liquid crystal base.

Tables 1 to 4 below show compositions of the liquid crystal emulsion type cosmetic composition. The content of each component is in grams (g).

No. ingredient Example
One Example
2 Example
3 Example
4 Example
5 Example
6 One Purified water to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 2 glycerin 5 5 5 5 5 5 3 N-acetyl phytosphingosine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 4 Ceramide 3 0.2 One 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 5 Cetearyl alcohol One One 3 10 3 3 6 Glyceryl stearate One One One One 3.5 10 7 Stearic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 8 Caprylic / capric triglyceride One One One One One One 9 Vitamin C 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 10 Pentyleneglycol 5 5 5 5 5 5

No. ingredient Example
7 Example
8 Example
9 Example
10 Example
11 Example
12 One Purified water to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 2 glycerin 5 5 5 5 10 10 3 N-acetyl phytosphingosine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 4 Ceramide 3 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 One 5 Cetearyl alcohol 3 3 3 3 3 3 6 Glyceryl stearate 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 7 Stearic acid 1.5 5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 8 Caprylic / capric triglyceride One One 5 10 10 10 9 Vitamin C 1.5 1.5 One 10 1.5 1.5 10 Pentyleneglycol 2 2 2 2 One 10

No. ingredient Example
13 Example
14 Example
15 Example
16 Example
17 Example
18 One Purified water to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 2 glycerin 10 10 10 10 15 15 3 N-acetyl phytosphingosine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 4 Ceramide 3 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 One 5 Cetearyl alcohol 10 3 3 3 3 3 6 Glyceryl stearate 3.5 10 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 7 Stearic acid 1.5 1.5 5 1.5 1.5 1.5 8 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 10 10 10 5 10 10 9 Vitamin C 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 10 Pentyleneglycol 5 5 5 5 5 5

No. ingredient Example
19 Example
20 Example
21 Example
22 Example
23 Example
24 One Purified water to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 to.100 2 glycerin 15 15 15 15 15 15 3 N-acetyl phytosphingosine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 1.5 4 Ceramide 3 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 5 Cetearyl alcohol 10 3 3 3 3 3 6 Glyceryl stearate 3.5 10 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 7 Stearic acid 1.5 1.5 5 1.5 1.5 1.5 8 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 10 10 10 5 10 10 9 Vitamin C 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 10 Pentyleneglycol 5 5 5 5 5 5

Comparative Examples 1 to 3, in which the sterol component was added to the liquid crystal base, were prepared under the same conditions. Table 5 shows composition of the cosmetic composition of the liquid crystal emulsification type, and the content unit of each component is gram (g).

No. ingredient Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 One Purified water to.100 to.100 to.100 2 glycerin 15 15 15 3 cholesterol 0.6 0.4 0.5 4 Phytosterol 1.5 1.0 2.0 5 Ceramide 3 0.2 0.2 0.2 6 Cetearyl alcohol 10 3 3 7 Glyceryl stearate 3.5 10 3.5 8 Stearic acid 1.5 1.5 5 9 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 10 10 10 10 Active ingredient 1.5 1.5 1.5 11 Pentyleneglycol 5 5 5

Experimental Example  1: Improvement of skin barrier function

(TEWL, transepidermal water loss) of the above Examples 1 to 24 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was observed from the inside of the skin to the skin barrier caused by damage to the skin barrier The amount of moisture evaporation was measured with a transdermal water evaporation meter (CM 825, CK Electronics, Germany). Prior to the test, the amount of transdermal water evaporation was measured from 10 to 10 years old people with atopic symptoms between 6 and 50 years old, and then scotch tape was attached to the same position and repeatedly applied 15 to 20 times, hm < ^{2 &} gt ;. Thereafter, each of Examples 1 to 24 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was applied to the skin in the same amount, and then the moisture evaporation amount was measured with the lapse of time, and the skin barrier recovery rate Respectively. The results are shown in Table 6 below.

Skin barrier recovery rate over time (%) Elapsed time (h) 0 6 12 24 Example 1 0 61.2 67.4 70.6 Example 2 0 61.3 67.7 73.5 Example 3 0 56.9 64.1 69.2 Example 4 0 55.6 63.5 79.0 Example 5 0 64.9 70.9 73.6 Example 6 0 66.6 71.6 72.1 Example 7 0 51.6 64.8 75.6 Example 8 0 58.6 64.7 67.9 Example 9 0 61.1 65.9 74.6 Example 10 0 66.9 74.6 79.6 Example 11 0 62.5 69.9 72.4 Example 12 0 64.5 69.4 75.0 Example 13 0 68.2 78.4 81.2 Example 14 0 69.9 78.2 80.5 Example 15 0 73.2 79.8 83.0 Example 16 0 70.4 75.3 81.6 Example 17 0 73.8 87.0 92.4 Example 18 0 68.3 79.1 84.4 Example 19 0 74.2 78.6 86.1 Example 20 0 79.6 85.3 89.4 Example 21 0 72.3 78.5 82.4 Example 22 0 69.4 79.8 84.2 Example 23 0 68.7 76.6 80.8 Example 24 0 73.7 79.5 87.2 Comparative Example 1 0 61.2 53.0 51.2 Comparative Example 2 0 60.4 53.7 49.8 Comparative Example 3 0 64.0 55.9 50.6

As a result, as shown in Table 11, it was confirmed that the skin barrier recovery rate of Examples 1 to 24 after 24 hours was significantly increased with time. In particular, Examples 13 to 22 showed excellent skin barrier recovery rates. However, in the case of Comparative Examples 1 to 3, the skin barrier recovery rate was significantly lower than in Examples 13 to 22. Therefore, it can be seen from the above results that the liquid crystal base containing N-acetyl phytosphingosine of the present invention is superior in skin barrier recovery rate to a liquid crystal base containing sterol.

Experimental Example  2: observation of liquid crystal formation and In a thermostatic chamber  long time Phase stability

The emulsified state of the liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition obtained from Tables 1 to 5 was observed with a microscope (OLYMPUS BX 41, OLYMPUS) at a magnification of 400 and shown in Tables 7 to 11 below. Evaluation criteria are as follows.

1. Particle size and thickness indicate a 5-point scale. Particle size is too large as the particle size increases to 5 points. Particles enclosed by a thick outer wall are observed. Particle sizes become too small to form a liquid crystal film As a result, the 3-point scale appears to be the most appropriate particle size.

2. The sharpness of the particles means that the formation of multi-lamellar liquid crystals can be visually and visually confirmed at the 5th point by judging the degree of light scattering clearly observed in the polarization microscope.

3. The homogeneity of the liquid crystal is better as the particle uniformity increases toward 5 points, and the phase stability can be evaluated because there is an opportunity for coalescence to occur at one point.

4. Comparison of phase stability at 4 ° C, 25 ° C, 37 ° C, and 50 ° C in a thermostatic chamber. This is expressed by numerical values in consideration of deposition at a low temperature and phase separation at a high temperature.

division Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Particle size and thickness 3 3 2 4 4 2 (Scale: 5 = very large, 4 = large, 3 = moderate, good, 2 = small, 1 = very small) Sharpness of particles 4 3 3 3 2 2 (Scale: 5 = very sharp, 4 = sharp, 3 = moderate, 2 = dim, 1 = unclear) Uniformity of particles 3 3 3 2 3 3 (Scale: 5 = very uniform, 4 = uniform, 3 = moderate, 2 = somewhat uneven, 1 = very uneven) 3 months at 4 ℃ 3 3 3 3 4 3 3 months at 25 ℃ 4 3 3 3 4 3 3 months at 37 ℃ 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 months at 50 ℃ 4 4 4 4 4 3 (Scale: 5 = very stable, 4 = stable, 3 = moderate, 2 = separation and deposition phenomenon, 1 = separation and deposition)

division Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 Example 12 Particle size and thickness 3 4 2 4 3 4 (Scale: 5 = very large, 4 = large, 3 = moderate, good, 2 = small, 1 = very small) Sharpness of particles 3 4 3 2 3 3 (Scale: 5 = very sharp, 4 = sharp, 3 = moderate, 2 = dim, 1 = unclear) Uniformity of particles 4 3 3 3 2 4 (Scale: 5 = very uniform, 4 = uniform, 3 = moderate, 2 = somewhat uneven, 1 = very uneven) 3 months at 4 ℃ 3 4 4 4 3 4 3 months at 25 ℃ 4 3 3 3 2 3 3 months at 37 ℃ 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 months at 50 ℃ 4 4 4 4 4 4 (Scale: 5 = very stable, 4 = stable, 3 = moderate, 2 = separation and deposition phenomenon, 1 = separation and deposition)

division Example 13 Example 14 Example 15 Example 16 Example 17 Example 18 Particle size and thickness 3 3 3 3 3 3 (Scale: 5 = very large, 4 = large, 3 = moderate, good, 2 = small, 1 = very small) Sharpness of particles 5 5 5 4 5 5 (Scale: 5 = very sharp, 4 = sharp, 3 = moderate, 2 = dim, 1 = unclear) Uniformity of particles 5 5 5 5 5 5 (Scale: 5 = very uniform, 4 = uniform, 3 = moderate, 2 = somewhat uneven, 1 = very uneven) 3 months at 4 ℃ 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 months at 25 ℃ 5 5 4 5 5 5 3 months at 37 ℃ 5 5 5 5 5 5 3 months at 50 ℃ 5 5 5 5 5 5 (Scale: 5 = very stable, 4 = stable, 3 = moderate, 2 = separation and deposition phenomenon, 1 = separation and deposition)

division Example 19 Example 20 Example 21 Example 22 Example 23 Example 24 Particle size and thickness 3 3 3 3 4 2 (Scale: 5 = very large, 4 = large, 3 = moderate, good, 2 = small, 1 = very small) Sharpness of particles 5 5 5 5 5 5 (Scale: 5 = very sharp, 4 = sharp, 3 = moderate, 2 = dim, 1 = unclear) Uniformity of particles 5 5 5 5 2 2 (Scale: 5 = very uniform, 4 = uniform, 3 = moderate, 2 = somewhat uneven, 1 = very uneven) 3 months at 4 ℃ 5 5 5 5 3 3 3 months at 25 ℃ 4 5 5 5 3 3 3 months at 37 ℃ 5 5 5 5 2 4 3 months at 50 ℃ 5 5 5 5 2 4 (Scale: 5 = very stable, 4 = stable, 3 = moderate, 2 = separation and deposition phenomenon, 1 = separation and deposition)

division Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Particle size and thickness 3 2 4 (Scale: 5 = very large, 4 = large, 3 = moderate, good, 2 = small, 1 = very small) Sharpness of particles 4 4 3 (Scale: 5 = very sharp, 4 = sharp, 3 = moderate, 2 = dim, 1 = unclear) Uniformity of particles 4 4 3 (Scale: 5 = very uniform, 4 = uniform, 3 = moderate, 2 = somewhat uneven, 1 = very uneven) 3 months at 4 ℃ 5 5 5 3 months at 25 ℃ 5 5 5 3 months at 37 ℃ 5 5 5 3 months at 50 ℃ 5 5 5 (Scale: 5 = very stable, 4 = stable, 3 = moderate, 2 = separation and deposition phenomenon, 1 = separation and deposition)

As a result, as can be seen from Tables 7 to 11, when the liquid crystal formation and stability were confirmed, the cosmetic composition prepared from Examples 13 to 22 was very stable in emulsion state and high in sharpness of particles, It was confirmed that it was stable even after long - term storage at various temperature conditions. However, in the case of Examples 1 to 12, liquid crystal formation and stability were good, but when compared with Examples 13 to 22, the sharpness of the particles was relatively low and the stability was deteriorated by temperature and time conditions I could confirm some. In Comparative Examples 1 to 3, storage stability was as good as Examples 13 to 22, but sharpness and uniformity of the particles in liquid crystal formation were lowered. A photograph of the liquid crystal formation of Examples 2 and 17 observed with an optical microscope is shown in Fig.

Experimental Example  3: Skin cell recovery and regeneration effect

The skin cell recovery and regeneration effects of Examples 1 to 24 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were confirmed.

In order to examine the recovery and regenerating effects of the liquid crystal emulsifying cosmetic composition according to the present invention at the cell level, human epidermal neonatal keratinocyte cells (Lonza Inc., Walkersville, MD, USA) ) Were cultured in an incubator under conditions of 25 and 37. The cell culture medium was prepared by adding a KGM-2 bullet kit (bovine pituitary extract (BPE), 2 ml of human epidermal growth factor (hEGF), 0.5 ml) to 500 ml of KBM-2 (Clonetics CC- , Insulin (0.5 ml), Hydrocortisone (0.5 ml), Transferrin (0.5 ml), Epinephrine (0.5 ml), Gentamycin Suflate + Amphofericin-B : GA-1000, 0.5 ml)) was added thereto. The cultured human dermal keratinocytes were added to the culture solution in an amount of 5 ppm for each of Examples 1 to 24 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, and cultured for 24 hours to prepare samples. Human dermal keratinocytes not treated with the cosmetic composition were used as a control And each was observed under an optical microscope.

As a result, Examples 13 to 22 were more effective in cell regeneration than cells of the control group, Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, respectively.

Through the above experimental examples, it was found that the compositions of Examples 13 to 22 were excellent in liquid crystal formation, storage stability, skin regeneration effect and skin barrier function improving effect.

While the invention has been shown and described with reference to certain embodiments thereof, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

Claims (13)

A cosmetic composition for restoring skin barrier,
The composition comprises 10 to 30% by weight of the liquid crystal base and 70 to 90% by weight of the water phase based on the total weight of the composition,
Wherein the water-pervious portion comprises 10 to 25% by weight of the polyol and the balance of purified water, based on the total weight of the composition,
Wherein the polyol is composed of glycerin and pentylene glycol,
Wherein the glycerin is contained in an amount of 1 to 20 wt%, the pentylene glycol is contained in an amount of 2 to 9 wt%
The liquid crystal base may comprise, based on the total weight of the composition,
N-acetyl phytosphingosine, 0.3 to 1.4 wt% N-acetyl phytosphingosine, 0.1 to 5 wt% ceramide, 0.5 to 15 wt% fatty alcohol, 2 to 15 wt% 10% by weight fatty acid and 2-15% by weight oil,
The fatty alcohol is a cetearyl alcohol,
Wherein the emulsifier is glyceryl stearate,
Wherein the fatty acid is stearic acid,
Wherein the oil is caprylic / capric triglyceride.
delete delete delete delete delete delete delete delete delete delete The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the cosmetic composition is any one selected from the group consisting of lotion, essence, cream, cleansing, makeup base, foundation, sunscreen, lip gloss, gel and paste.
A method for producing a cosmetic composition for restoring skin barrier according to any one of claims 1 to 12,
The method comprises:
a) a liquid crystal base component comprising N-acetyl phytosphingosine, ceramides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, emulsifiers and oils; And an aqueous phase comprising polyol and water, respectively, to 70 to 90 캜; And
b) mixing and emulsifying the liquid crystal base constituent unit and the water phase unit each heated in step a), and cooling the mixture to 35 to 60 ° C.

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