JP2016160559A - Spun yarn and pilling resistant woven or knitted fabric using the same - Google Patents
Spun yarn and pilling resistant woven or knitted fabric using the same Download PDFInfo
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本発明は、アセテート系短繊維を含有し、速乾性に優れ、汗をかいた際のベタツキ感軽減効果に優れた、ソフトで光沢感を有し、また洗濯による風合い変化の少ない抗ピリング性の紡績糸及びこれを用いた織編物に関する。 The present invention contains acetate-based short fibers, is excellent in quick-drying properties, excellent in the reduction of stickiness when sweating, has a soft and glossy feeling, and has an anti-pilling property with little texture change due to washing. The present invention relates to a spun yarn and a woven or knitted fabric using the spun yarn.
手触りや吸水性に優れたセルロース系繊維紡績糸使いの織編物は、寸法安定性や防皺性を向上するためにポリエステル繊維を混紡したり、芯糸としたりして繊維製品として多用されている。しかしながら、これら繊維製品は着用による摩擦等の物理的作用によって製品表面の繊維が毛羽立ち、この毛羽が絡み合いながら毛玉（ピル）を生じやすく、この様な毛玉（ピル）の形成は繊維製品の外観や手触り等の品位を損ねるものである。 Woven and knitted fabrics using cellulosic fiber spun yarn with excellent touch and water absorption are often used as fiber products by blending polyester fiber or making core yarn to improve dimensional stability and fender resistance. . However, these fiber products are prone to fluff due to physical effects such as friction due to wear, and the fluff is entangled, and the formation of such pills is the The quality of the appearance and the touch is impaired.
これらの問題点に対して、抗ピリング性を向上させるために種々の手法が採用されている。例えば、特開２００２−３８３４８号公報（特許文献１）や特開２０００−２３９９４４号公報（特許文献２）には、ポリエステル短繊維の結節強度を低下させ、短繊維毛羽玉が物理的な力で脱落しやすくする手法があり、原糸製造段階における改質（例えば共重合ポリエステルやブレンド等）による原糸強力を低下させる手段が示されているが、特殊なポリエステルとなるため一般的には使用されていない。 In order to improve the anti-pilling property against these problems, various methods are employed. For example, in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2002-38348 (Patent Document 1) and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-239944 (Patent Document 2), the knot strength of a polyester short fiber is reduced, and the short fiber fluff ball has a physical force. There is a technique to make it easy to fall off, and means to reduce the strength of the yarn by modifying the raw yarn production stage (for example, copolyester or blend) is shown, but it is generally used because it becomes a special polyester It has not been.
また、セルロース系繊維の中で綿（コットン）自体も毛玉（ピル）を生じやすいため、綿毛羽を減少させるために苛性ソーダ等による化学的処理や、セルロース分解酵素（セルラーゼ）処理などによる仕上げ加工が行われているものの、その性能が不充分であるため、例えば特開２００５−８９８９６号公報（特許文献３）や特開２０１２−２０２００５号公報（特許文献４）のように、グリオキザール樹脂加工やカルボキシメチル基を導入するなどの改良が行うことが提案されているが、染色時の色ブレ、コストの面で実用的ではないものである。 In addition, cotton (cotton) itself is prone to pills among cellulosic fibers, so finish processing by chemical treatment with caustic soda or cellulose degradation enzyme (cellulase) treatment to reduce fluff. However, since its performance is insufficient, glyoxal resin processing, for example, as in JP-A-2005-89896 (Patent Document 3) and JP-A-2012-202005 (Patent Document 4) Improvements such as the introduction of a carboxymethyl group have been proposed, but this is not practical in terms of color blurring and cost during dyeing.
本発明は、速乾性に優れ、汗をかいた際にベタツキ感の軽減効果に優れ、ソフトで光沢感を有し、また洗濯による風合い変化の少ない抗ピリング性の紡績糸及びこれを用いた織編物を提供することにあり、本発明の織編物は特に蒸れ易い夏季に着用する衣料用生地として好適に用いることができる。 The present invention provides an anti-pilling spun yarn excellent in quick-drying, excellent in reduction of stickiness when sweated, soft and glossy, and having little texture change due to washing, and a woven fabric using the same In providing a knitted fabric, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be suitably used as a clothing fabric to be worn particularly in the summer when it is easily stuffy.
前記課題を解決するため、発明者らは鋭意検討の結果、本発明に到達した。本発明の要旨を以下に示す。
本発明の紡績糸は、単繊維繊度１．１〜４．２ｄｔｅｘ、捲縮数１０〜３０個／インチのアセテート系短繊維を２０〜１００質量％含有する紡績糸である。
本発明の紡績糸は、前記アセテート系短繊維が、セルローストリアセテートであることが好ましい。
本発明の紡績糸は、前記アセテート系短繊維が、トリアセテート成分とジアセテート成分との貼り合せ型複合繊維であることが好ましい。
本発明の紡績糸は、合成繊維短繊維、再生繊維短繊維、天然繊維の１種以上をさらに２０〜８０質量％含有することが好ましい。
本発明の紡績糸は、紡績糸の太さが綿番手で２０〜４５番手であることが好ましい。
In order to solve the above problems, the inventors arrived at the present invention as a result of intensive studies. The gist of the present invention is shown below.
The spun yarn of the present invention is a spun yarn containing 20 to 100% by mass of acetate-based short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 1.1 to 4.2 dtex and a crimp number of 10 to 30 pieces / inch.
In the spun yarn of the present invention, the acetate-based short fibers are preferably cellulose triacetate.
In the spun yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the acetate short fiber is a bonded composite fiber of a triacetate component and a diacetate component.
The spun yarn of the present invention preferably further contains 20 to 80% by mass of one or more kinds of synthetic short fiber, regenerated short fiber, and natural fiber.
The spun yarn of the present invention preferably has a spun yarn thickness of 20 to 45 in terms of cotton.
本発明の織編物は、アセテート系短繊維を含有する紡績糸を織編物の全質量に対して４０質量％以上含む織編物であって、前記アセテート系短繊維の単繊維繊度が１．１〜４．２ｄｔｅｘ、捲縮数が１０〜３０個／インチであり、前記紡績糸の前記アセテート系短繊維の含有量が２０〜１００質量％であり、前記織編物の抗ピリング性が４級以上である織編物である。 The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric containing 40% by mass or more of spun yarn containing acetate-based short fibers with respect to the total mass of the woven / knitted fabric, and the single fiber fineness of the acetate-based short fibers is 1.1 to 4.2 dtex, the number of crimps is 10-30 pieces / inch, the content of the acetate-based short fibers in the spun yarn is 20-100% by mass, and the anti-pilling property of the woven or knitted fabric is 4th grade or higher A woven or knitted fabric.
本発明の織編物は、前記アセテート系短繊維の側鎖のアセチル基がケン化されていることが好ましい。
本発明の織編物は、前記アセテート系短繊維が、トリアセテート成分とジアセテート成分との貼り合せ型の複合紡糸された繊維であり、ジアセテート成分側のアセチル基がケン化されていることが好ましい。
本発明の織編物は、織編物の乾燥時と水分率が６０％の湿潤時との通気度差が３０〜５０ｃｍ3 ／ｃｍ2 ・ｓであることが好ましい。
In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the acetyl group in the side chain of the acetate-based short fiber is preferably saponified.
In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the acetate-based short fiber is a composite-spun fiber of a triacetate component and a diacetate component, and the acetyl group on the diacetate component side is saponified. .
In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the air permeability difference between the dried woven fabric and the wetted moisture content of 60% is preferably 30 to 50 cm 3 / cm 2 · s.
本発明の紡績糸を含有する織編物は、速乾性に優れ、ソフトで光沢感を有し、また洗濯による風合い変化の少ない抗ピリング性の高い織編物である。また、本発明の紡績糸は、ソフトで光沢感を有し、また洗濯による風合い変化の少ない抗ピリング性の高い織編物を提供でき、特に蒸れ易い夏季に着用する衣料用織編物として好適に用いることができる。 The woven or knitted fabric containing the spun yarn of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric excellent in quick-drying, soft and glossy, and having a high anti-pilling property with little texture change due to washing. The spun yarn of the present invention is soft and glossy and can provide a woven or knitted fabric with high anti-pilling property that has little texture change due to washing, and is suitably used as a woven or knitted fabric for clothing particularly worn in summer. be able to.
本発明の紡績糸に用いるアセテート系短繊維は、乾式紡糸法で製造される平均酢化度４８．８％〜５６．２％のセルロースジアセテート繊維、平均酢化度５６．２％〜６２．５％のセルローストリアセテート繊維や、溶融紡糸法で製造されるセルロースアセテートプロピオネート及び／又はセルロースアセテートブチレート等のセルロースエステル繊維などの半合成繊維であれば特に限定されるものではない。綿光沢感を増すために一般的にシルケット加工が併用されるが、この場合は比較的耐アルカリ性の高いセルローストリアセテート繊維を用いることが好ましい。 The acetate type short fiber used for the spun yarn of the present invention is a cellulose diacetate fiber having an average degree of acetylation of 48.8% to 56.2% produced by a dry spinning method, and an average degree of acetylation of 56.2% to 62.62. It is not particularly limited as long as it is a semi-synthetic fiber such as 5% cellulose triacetate fiber or cellulose ester fiber such as cellulose acetate propionate and / or cellulose acetate butyrate produced by melt spinning. In order to increase cotton gloss, mercerization is generally used together. In this case, it is preferable to use cellulose triacetate fiber having relatively high alkali resistance.
また、そのアセテート系短繊維の繊維断面も特に限定されるものではなく、得られる織編物の風合い、光沢等を考慮して、普通糸の多葉型断面や、ダルマ型、扁平等を選択すればよい。
アセテート系短繊維の単繊維繊度は１．１〜４．２ｄｔｅｘ、捲縮数は１０〜３０個／インチを有しているのが好ましく、短繊維の繊維長と単繊維繊度の組み合わせにより通常の紡績糸の製造工程で得ることができる。例えば、綿紡績、２インチ紡績、紡毛紡績、梳毛紡積、オープンエンド紡績などが挙げられる。またトウとして供給することでトウ紡績での使用も可能である。アセテート系短繊維の単繊維繊度が１．１ｄｔｅｘ以上であれば、紡績時のカーディング工程に於ける折損が少なくできるので好ましい。また４．２ｄｔｅｘ以下であれば、ソフトな風合いが得られ易い。
前記観点から、前記単繊維繊度は、１．５ｄｔｅｘ以上、２．５ｄｔｅｘ以下が好ましい。
In addition, the fiber cross section of the acetate-based short fiber is not particularly limited, and in consideration of the texture, gloss, etc. of the resulting woven or knitted fabric, select a multi-leaf type cross section of normal yarn, a dharma type, a flat shape, etc. That's fine.
The single fiber fineness of the acetate-based short fibers is preferably 1.1 to 4.2 dtex, and the number of crimps is preferably 10 to 30 pieces / inch. Depending on the combination of the short fiber length and the single fiber fineness, It can be obtained in the production process of spun yarn. For example, cotton spinning, 2-inch spinning, spun spinning, worsted spinning, open-end spinning and the like can be mentioned. It can also be used in tow spinning by supplying it as tow. If the single fiber fineness of the acetate short fiber is 1.1 dtex or more, it is preferable because breakage in the carding process during spinning can be reduced. Moreover, if it is 4.2 dtex or less, a soft texture is easy to be obtained.
From the above viewpoint, the single fiber fineness is preferably 1.5 dtex or more and 2.5 dtex or less.
前記アセテート系短繊維の捲縮数は、１０〜３０個／インチであることが好ましい。前記捲縮数が１０個／インチ以上であれば、紡績工程のカード工程でのラップ切れ、スライバー工程でのスライバー切れが少なくなるため好ましく、３０個／インチ以下であれば、カード工程でのアセテート系短繊維の折損が少なくなるので好ましい。 The number of crimps of the acetate-based short fibers is preferably 10 to 30 / inch. If the number of crimps is 10 pieces / inch or more, it is preferable because wrap breaks in the card process of the spinning process and sliver cuts in the sliver process are reduced, and if it is 30 pieces / inch or less, acetate in the card process is preferred. This is preferable because breakage of the short fiber is reduced.
本発明の紡績糸を得るためには、アセテート系短繊維を２０〜１００質量％含有することが必要である。アセテート系短繊維の含有率が２０質量％以上であれば、抗ピリング性やソフトさや光沢感が得られ易い。前記観点から、アセテート系短繊維の含有率は、３０質量％以上がより好ましく、４０質量％以上がさらに好ましい。アセテート系短繊維の含有率が１００％の場合は、抗ピリング性や光沢感、発色性、吸汗速乾性に優れた織編物を得ることができるため好ましいが、アセテート系短繊維の強度物性が低いことから、綿番手３０番手程度より細い糸は製造しにくく、紡績糸強力面での難度はある。紡績糸の製造、物性の観点から、アセテート系短繊維の含有率は７０質量％以下がより好ましい。
アセテート系短繊維の含有率と糸番手は、前記観点から適宜調節すればよい。
In order to obtain the spun yarn of the present invention, it is necessary to contain 20 to 100% by mass of acetate-based short fibers. If the content rate of an acetate type short fiber is 20 mass% or more, anti-pilling property, softness, and glossiness will be easy to be obtained. From the above viewpoint, the content of the acetate-based short fibers is more preferably 30% by mass or more, and further preferably 40% by mass or more. Acetate short fiber content of 100% is preferred because a woven or knitted fabric excellent in anti-pilling properties, glossiness, color development and sweat-absorbing quick-drying properties can be obtained, but the strength properties of acetate short fibers are low. For this reason, it is difficult to produce a thread thinner than about 30 cotton counts, and there is a difficulty in the strength of spun yarn. From the viewpoint of production of spun yarn and physical properties, the content of acetate-based short fibers is more preferably 70% by mass or less.
What is necessary is just to adjust suitably the content rate and thread count of an acetate type short fiber from the said viewpoint.
紡績糸の撚り係数αは所望の番手（Ｎｅ）、風合いにより一般的な撚り数の設定でよい。具体的には撚り係数αが８５〜１０５の範囲である。 The twist coefficient α of the spun yarn may be set to a general number of twists depending on a desired count (Ne) and texture. Specifically, the twist coefficient α is in the range of 85 to 105.
１ｍ当たりの紡績撚り数 ＴＰＭ＝α×√（１．６９３×Ｎｅ）
アセテート系短繊維は、セルローストリアセテートまたはトリアセテート成分とジアセテート成分との貼り合せ型複合繊維であることが好ましい。
セルローストリアセテートであれば、ソフトで光沢感のある風合いを得やすくなる。
また、トリアセテート成分とジアセテート成分との貼り合せ型複合繊維であれば、ジアセテート成分側のアセチル基のみをケン化することができ、通気可逆性を得られるので好ましい。
Number of spinning twists per meter TPM = α × √ (1.693 × Ne)
The acetate-based short fibers are preferably cellulose triacetate or a bonded composite fiber of a triacetate component and a diacetate component.
Cellulose triacetate makes it easy to obtain a soft and glossy texture.
A bonded composite fiber of a triacetate component and a diacetate component is preferable because only the acetyl group on the diacetate component side can be saponified and air reversibility can be obtained.
本発明の紡績糸に含まれるアセテート系短繊維以外の混紡繊維素材としては、合成繊維短繊維、再生繊維短繊維、及び天然繊維の少なくとも１種以上を用いることが望ましい。繊維物性に優れた合成繊維を用いることで紡績糸の強力を向上させることができるが、その強度の点から毛玉（ピル）が生じやすい欠点も有するので、所定の風合い、物性を得るために適宜その混率を選択すればよい。 As the blended fiber material other than the acetate-based short fibers contained in the spun yarn of the present invention, it is desirable to use at least one of synthetic fiber short fibers, regenerated fiber short fibers, and natural fibers. Synthetic fibers with excellent fiber properties can improve the strength of the spun yarn, but because of its strength, there is a defect that pills are likely to occur, so to obtain the desired texture and physical properties What is necessary is just to select the mixing rate suitably.
合成繊維短繊維の一例として、ポリエステル繊維、ポリアミド繊維、アクリル繊維、ポリプロピレン繊維、ポリエチレン繊維などのポリオレフィン繊維等を選択することができる。再生繊維短繊維の一例としては、レーヨン、モダールレーヨン繊維、キュプラ、リヨセル、テンセルなどを選択することができる。
天然繊維の一例としては、綿、ウールなどを選択することができる。紡績糸の風合いや物性の所望によって、これらの合成繊維短繊維、再生繊維短繊維、天然繊維を混紡して使用することも可能である。
As an example of the synthetic short fiber, a polyester fiber, a polyamide fiber, an acrylic fiber, a polypropylene fiber, a polyolefin fiber such as a polyethylene fiber, or the like can be selected. As an example of the regenerated fiber short fiber, rayon, modal rayon fiber, cupra, lyocell, tencel and the like can be selected.
As an example of natural fibers, cotton, wool, and the like can be selected. Depending on the desired texture and physical properties of the spun yarn, these synthetic fiber short fibers, regenerated fiber short fibers, and natural fibers can be mixed and used.
本発明の紡績糸の太さは、綿番手で２０〜４５番手が好ましい。前記番手が２０番手以上であれば、紡績糸が太すぎないため織編物にした場合にソフトな風合いが得られやすく、前記番手が４５番手以下であれば、紡績糸の強度があるため、織編物の製造工程通過性が良好となりやすい。
前記観点から、前記番手は３０〜４０番手がより好ましい。
The thickness of the spun yarn of the present invention is preferably 20 to 45 in terms of cotton. If the count is 20 or more, the spun yarn is not too thick and a soft texture is easily obtained when woven or knitted. If the count is 45 or less, the spun yarn has strength, so Easy to pass through the manufacturing process of the knitted fabric.
From the viewpoint, the count is more preferably 30 to 40.
本発明の織編物は、本発明のアセテート系短繊維含有紡績糸を、織編物の全質量に対して４０質量％以上含有するものである。そうすることで、抗ピリング性を良好とすることができる。 The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention contains the acetate type short fiber-containing spun yarn of the present invention in an amount of 40% by mass or more based on the total mass of the woven or knitted fabric. By doing so, anti-pilling property can be made favorable.
抗ピリング性を高める観点から、本発明の紡績糸は、織編物の全質量に対して６０質量％以上含有することがより好ましく、８０質量％以上含有することがさらに好ましい。 From the viewpoint of enhancing the anti-pilling property, the spun yarn of the present invention is more preferably contained in an amount of 60% by mass or more, and more preferably 80% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the woven or knitted fabric.
全部又は一部に本発明の紡績糸が交織交編された織編物は組織、目付等が特に限定されるものではない。編み組織としては、例えばベア天竺編、パイル編、スムース編、裏毛編、フリース編等が挙げられるが、本発明の編物を肌着などの肌に直接触れる衣料に適用する場合は、肌との摩擦係数を下げるため、また抗ピリング性の観点からスムース編、ベア天竺編等の着用肌面側がフラットな組織を選定し、度目を小さくすることが好ましい。目付けとしては１００〜２５０ｇ／ｍ2 が好ましく、１２０〜２００ｇ／ｍ2 がより好ましいものである。 The structure, basis weight, etc. of the woven or knitted fabric in which the spun yarn of the present invention is woven or knitted in whole or in part is not particularly limited. Examples of the knitting structure include a bear tengu knitting, a pile knitting, a smooth knitting, a back knitting, and a fleece knitting, but when the knitted fabric of the present invention is applied to clothing such as an underwear that directly touches the skin, In order to reduce the coefficient of friction, and from the viewpoint of anti-pilling properties, it is preferable to select a structure having a flat wearing surface, such as a smooth knitting and a bare tentacle knitting, and reduce the degree. Preferably 100 to 250 g / m 2 as a weight per unit area, 120~200g / m 2 is more preferable.
更に織編物としてストレッチ性を得るために、紡績糸の中にポリウレタンなどの弾性糸をドラフトして供給することも可能であり、また製織製編工程でベアのポリウレタンを供給したり、ポリエステルフィラメントとポリウレタンとを空気交絡させたＦＹＹなどを交織交編することでストレッチ性の織編物を得ることができる。 Furthermore, in order to obtain stretchability as a woven or knitted fabric, it is possible to supply an elastic yarn such as polyurethane in a spun yarn, supply bare polyurethane in the weaving and knitting process, A stretch woven or knitted fabric can be obtained by cross-weaving FYY or the like in which polyurethane is air-entangled.
本発明の織編物の抗ピリング性は４級以上である。本発明の紡績糸を含有することで天然繊維や再生繊維では得られない抗ピリング性を向上させることができる。
そのため、風合い変化が少なく商品性に優れる織編物を得ることができる。前記観点から、抗ピリング性は４．５級以上がより好ましく、５級であることがさらに好ましい。
The anti-pilling property of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is 4th or higher. By containing the spun yarn of the present invention, the anti-pilling property that cannot be obtained with natural fibers or recycled fibers can be improved.
Therefore, it is possible to obtain a knitted or knitted fabric with little change in texture and excellent merchantability. In view of the above, the anti-pilling property is more preferably 4.5 or higher, and further preferably fifth.
更に織編物として着用する際、発汗時の吸湿性の向上や、吸湿時に織編物の通気性を高める機能を得るため、アセテート系紡績糸自体やアセテート系紡績糸を用いて織編物としたのちのアセテート系短繊維の側鎖のアセチル基の全てを脱アセチル化（以下、「ケン化」という。）して製造される紡績糸を用いた織編物であることが好ましい。
全てケン化されたアセテート系短繊維は、結晶化度の低いセルロース構造であり吸湿性が向上する。また吸湿によりその繊維長が伸長し、乾燥により元の状態に縮もうとする性質を有している。本発明の紡績糸がケン化処理された糸であり、これを含む本発明の織編物は、吸湿した際に通気度が高まるとともに、乾燥時には通気度が低減する機能を有するものである。またこの吸湿の際、吸湿発熱現象が生じ、急激な肌冷えを抑える着用効果を得ることができる。
In addition, when worn as a woven or knitted fabric, in order to improve the hygroscopicity during sweating and to increase the air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric when absorbing moisture, the acetate spun yarn itself or acetate spun yarn was used to make a woven or knitted fabric. A woven or knitted fabric using a spun yarn produced by deacetylating all of the acetyl groups in the side chain of an acetate-based short fiber (hereinafter referred to as “saponification”) is preferable.
All saponified acetate-based short fibers have a cellulose structure with low crystallinity and improved hygroscopicity. Moreover, the fiber length is extended by moisture absorption, and it has the property of trying to shrink to the original state by drying. The spun yarn of the present invention is a saponified yarn, and the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention including this has a function of increasing the air permeability when moisture is absorbed and decreasing the air permeability when dried. Moreover, the moisture absorption exothermic phenomenon arises in this moisture absorption, and the wearing effect which suppresses rapid skin cooling can be acquired.
本発明の織編物は、乾燥時と水分率が６０％の湿潤時との通気度差が３０〜５０ｃｍ3 ／ｃｍ2 ・ｓであることが好ましい。
前記通気度差が３０ｃｍ3 ／ｃｍ2 ・ｓ以上であれば、織編物が吸湿した際に乾燥を早めるための十分な通気度が得られ、５０ｃｍ3 ／ｃｍ2 ・ｓ以下であれば、急激な温度低下を防止しやすくなる。前記観点から、前記通気度差は、３３〜４３ｃｍ3 ／ｃｍ2 ・ｓがより好ましい。
The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a difference in air permeability of 30 to 50 cm 3 / cm 2 · s when dried and when wet with a moisture content of 60%.
If the air permeability difference is 30cm 3 / cm 2 · s or more, sufficient air permeability in order to accelerate the drying when the woven or knitted fabric has moisture absorption is obtained, if 50cm 3 / cm 2 · s or less, rapid It is easy to prevent a temperature drop. From the above viewpoint, the air permeability difference is more preferably 33 to 43 cm 3 / cm 2 · s.
アセテート系紡績糸自体をケン化する場合は、通常のチーズや綛状態での糸染め工程で処理することができる。またアセテート系紡績糸を用いた織編物としたのちケン化する場合は、織編物の精練後、染色工程前に減量加工機や液流染色機でケン化することができる。ケン化に際しては、工業的に好ましい例として水酸化ナトリウムや水酸化カリウムなどの強アルカリ化合物を用いた処理が挙げられる。強アルカリ化合物の種類、処理温度、処理時間などは適宜選択することができるが、製品として耐えうる強力を維持するために、紡績糸物性への影響を最小限にすることが好ましい。本発明のケン化条件の一例としては、水酸化ナトリウムの１．０〜５．０％の水溶液を用いて９０℃の温度で、織編物の混率から計算されるアセテート系繊維質量に対する処理浴との質量比を１／５０〜１／１００で行なう等の条件が挙げられる。この温度条件では比較的耐アルカリ性を有するトリアセテート繊維もケン化することができる。また強アルカリ化合物以外のケン化剤としては、例えば特開２００８−３０８７７１号公報に記載されている、塩酸グアニジンと弱酸のアルカリ金属塩とを含有するか、またはグアニジンの弱酸塩を含有するケン化剤を用いることもできる。 In the case of saponifying the acetate-based spun yarn itself, it can be processed by a normal dyeing process in a cheese or cocoon state. In the case of saponification after making a woven or knitted fabric using acetate-based spun yarn, it can be saponified by a weight reduction machine or a liquid dyeing machine after scouring the woven or knitted fabric and before the dyeing step. In the saponification, a treatment using a strong alkali compound such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide is an industrially preferable example. The type of strong alkali compound, treatment temperature, treatment time, and the like can be selected as appropriate, but it is preferable to minimize the influence on the physical properties of the spun yarn in order to maintain the strength that can be tolerated as a product. As an example of the saponification conditions of the present invention, a treatment bath with respect to the mass of acetate fiber calculated from the mixing ratio of the woven or knitted fabric using a 1.0 to 5.0% aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide at a temperature of 90 ° C. For example, a mass ratio of 1/50 to 1/100. Under this temperature condition, triacetate fiber having relatively alkali resistance can be saponified. Further, as a saponifying agent other than a strong alkali compound, for example, a saponification containing guanidine hydrochloride and an alkali metal salt of a weak acid or a weak acid salt of guanidine described in JP-A-2008-308771. An agent can also be used.
アセテート系短繊維をケン化する場合は、トリアセテート成分とジアセテート成分との貼り合せ型複合繊維を使用することが好ましく、ジアセテート成分側のアセチル基のみをケン化することが、通気可逆性を得られるので好ましい。 When saponifying acetate-based short fibers, it is preferable to use a bonded composite fiber of a triacetate component and a diacetate component, and saponifying only the acetyl group on the diacetate component side can improve the air reversibility. Since it is obtained, it is preferable.
本発明のケン化条件の一例としては、水酸化ナトリウムの１．０％〜５．０％の水溶液を用いてセルローストリアセテート繊維がケン化されにくく、セルロースジアセテート繊維が優先的にケン化される７０℃の以下の温度とする以外は、前述のケン化条件と同様の条件が挙げられる。
例えば特開２００２−１７３８２１号公報に記載された製法によって得られる、トリアセテート成分とジアセテート成分とをサイドバイサイドで貼り合せた貼り合せ型に複合紡糸されたアセテート系短繊維の場合、製織製編したのち染色に先立つケン化工程でジアセテート成分側のみをセルロース成分にケン化せしめると、仕上げ乾燥時の工程でトリアセテート成分との収縮差が発現し微細な捲縮を形成することができる。仕上げ工程において過度な張力を付与せず、染め上げ有り幅に近い規格で乾燥、仕上げを実施することにより、微細な捲縮がより発現しやすい。このため商品性との兼合いで適宜規格を設定すれば良い。本発明の織編物は、着用の際の吸湿により前記微細な捲縮が伸長し織編目の空隙が開き通気度が高まるとともに、乾燥により元の状態に縮もうとし通気度が低減する、通気度可逆変化機能を有するものである。
As an example of the saponification conditions of the present invention, cellulose triacetate fibers are hardly saponified using a 1.0% to 5.0% aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, and cellulose diacetate fibers are preferentially saponified. Except for setting the temperature to 70 ° C. or lower, the same conditions as the above-mentioned saponification conditions can be mentioned.
For example, in the case of an acetate-based short fiber obtained by a production method described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2002-173821, obtained by compound spinning in a bonding mold in which a triacetate component and a diacetate component are bonded side-by-side, When only the diacetate component side is saponified to the cellulose component in the saponification step prior to dyeing, a difference in shrinkage from the triacetate component is manifested in the step of finish drying, and fine crimps can be formed. By carrying out drying and finishing according to a standard close to the width with dyeing without applying excessive tension in the finishing process, fine crimps are more likely to appear. For this reason, what is necessary is just to set a standard suitably in consideration of merchantability. The knitted or knitted fabric of the present invention has an air permeability that reduces the air permeability while attempting to shrink to the original state by drying, while the fine crimps extend due to moisture absorption during wearing, and the voids of the woven stitch open and air permeability increases. It has a reversible change function.
これまではトリアセテート成分とジアセテート成分とをサイドバイサイドで貼り合せた貼り合せ型の複合紡糸長繊維フィラメントのみしか捲縮の可逆変化を生かすことができなかったが、織編物のケン化工程、仕上げ工程を適宜選択することで、短繊維ファイバーにおいても通気度可逆変化機能を有することを見出した。 Up to now, only the combined-type composite spun long fiber filaments in which the triacetate component and the diacetate component are bonded side-by-side can be used to take advantage of the reversible change in crimping. As a result, it was found that the short fiber also has a function of reversibly changing the air permeability.
更にまた、例えば特開２０１２−９７３９８号公報に記載された製法によって得られたジアセテート成分をトリアセテート成分で両側から挟み込んだ三層貼り合せ型構造の疑似芯鞘で複合紡糸されたファイバーを用いた場合は、セルローストリアセテート繊維の特徴を発揮しつつ、優れた保水性、優れた吸放湿速度と優れた吸汗速乾性との相反する特徴を同時に有するセルロース系複合繊維および繊維製品ならびにその製造方法を提供することができる。 Furthermore, for example, a fiber that was compound-spun with a pseudo-core sheath having a three-layer bonded structure in which a diacetate component obtained by a production method described in JP 2012-97398 A was sandwiched from both sides with a triacetate component was used. In the case of cellulose triacetate fiber, while exhibiting characteristics of cellulose triacetate fiber, cellulose composite fiber and fiber product having excellent water retention, excellent moisture absorption / release speed and excellent sweat absorption quick drying characteristics at the same time, and production method thereof Can be provided.
以下に、本発明の実施の形態について実施例を挙げて具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれらに制限されるものではない。実施例における性能評価は次の方法によって行った。
＜抗ピリング性＞
ＪＩＳ Ｌ―１０７６のピリング試験Ａ法（ＩＣＩ計）に準じ５時間後のピリング発生状態を評価した。
＜速乾性の評価＞
洗濯を１０回行った洗濯後の織編物を用い、生地中央部に０．３ｍＬの水滴を滴下し、水分の拡散に伴う生地質量変化を測定する拡散性残留水分率変化を測定し、残留水分率が１０％に至るまでの時間を評価した。
＜風合い、光沢感の評価＞
１０名の評価者が５段階で評価し、評価者の平均点を示した。５段階の評価は次のとおりである。５は風合いが良好で、高級な光沢感を有する。３は風合い、光沢感がふつうである。１は風合いが不良で光沢感がない。
＜風合い変化＞
ＪＩＳ Ｌ−０２１７の１０３法に準じて洗濯３０洗後の風合い変化を１０名の評価者によって５段階で評価し、評価者の平均点を示した。５段階の評価は次のとおりである。５は風合いが良好で、高級な光沢感を有する。３は風合い、光沢感がふつうでる。１は風合いが不良で光沢感がない。
＜水分率、通気度＞
織編物（４０ｃｍ×４０ｃｍ）を２４時間、水に浸漬した後に脱水し（脱水時間３分）、２０℃、６５％の雰囲気で２４時間風乾したものを、乾燥時のサンプルとし、その質量Ｗ０（ｇ）と通気度を測定した。
該サンプルを２４時間、水に浸漬した後、水分率が１００％になるように脱水した後、２０℃、６５％の雰囲気にて３０分ごとにサンプル質量Ｗ（ｇ）と通気度を測定する。水分率６０％における通気度から、乾燥時の通気度を引いたものを通気度差とした。通気度はＪＩＳＬ−１０１８に従い、フラジール型試験機を用いて測定を行ない、測定ｎ数は５回の平均値を評価した。
水分率（％）＝（Ｗ−Ｗ０）／Ｗ０×１００
通気度試験機：ＴＥＸＴＥＳＴ社製、ＦＸ３３００
Hereinafter, the embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. The performance evaluation in the examples was performed by the following method.
<Anti-pilling properties>
The pilling occurrence state after 5 hours was evaluated according to the JIS L-1076 pilling test method A (ICI meter).
<Evaluation of quick drying>
Using a woven or knitted fabric after washing 10 times, 0.3 mL of water droplets were dropped on the center of the fabric, the change in the diffusible residual moisture content was measured to measure the change in fabric mass due to the diffusion of moisture, and the residual moisture The time until the rate reached 10% was evaluated.
<Evaluation of texture and gloss>
Ten evaluators evaluated in five stages and showed the average score of the evaluators. The five-level evaluation is as follows. No. 5 has a good texture and a high-quality gloss. No. 3 has a texture and gloss. No. 1 has a poor texture and no gloss.
<Change in texture>
According to JIS L-0217 method 103, the texture change after washing 30 was evaluated by 10 evaluators in 5 stages, and the average score of the evaluators was shown. The five-level evaluation is as follows. No. 5 has a good texture and a high-quality gloss. No. 3 has a texture and glossiness. No. 1 has a poor texture and no gloss.
<Moisture content, air permeability>
A woven or knitted fabric (40 cm × 40 cm) was immersed in water for 24 hours, then dehydrated (dehydration time 3 minutes), and air-dried in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 65% for 24 hours. g) and the air permeability were measured.
The sample is immersed in water for 24 hours, dehydrated to a moisture content of 100%, and then the sample mass W (g) and the air permeability are measured every 30 minutes in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 65%. . The difference in air permeability was obtained by subtracting the air permeability during drying from the air permeability at a moisture content of 60%. The air permeability was measured according to JISL-1018 using a Frazier type tester, and the number of measurements n was evaluated as an average of 5 times.
Moisture content (%) = (W−W0) / W0 × 100
Air permeability tester: FX3300, manufactured by TEXTEST
〔実施例１〕
セルローストリアセテート１１０ｄｔｅｘ／６４フィラメント（単繊維繊度１．７ｄｔｅｘ、多葉断面形の普通糸ブライト）を一旦無交絡条件にてサンプリングを行い、約５００本を集束しスタッファーボックスで座屈捲縮加工により繊維束を形成した。この際得られた繊維束の捲縮数は１５〜２５個／インチを有していた。
この繊維束を綿紡績用に１０本まとめて繊維長３８ｍｍの定長カットを行い、１．７ｄｔｅｘの通常の多葉断面のセルローストリアセテート短繊維を得た。
[Example 1]
Cellulose triacetate 110dtex / 64 filaments (single fiber fineness 1.7dtex, multi-leaf cross-section ordinary yarn bright) is once sampled under non-entangled conditions, and about 500 fibers are collected and buckled crimped with a stuffer box A bundle was formed. The number of crimps of the fiber bundle obtained at this time was 15 to 25 / inch.
Ten of these fiber bundles were collected for cotton spinning and cut at a constant length of 38 mm to obtain 1.7 dtex cellulose multi-acetate short fiber with normal multi-leaf cross section.
このセルローストリアセテート短繊維を３０質量％と単繊維繊度１．３ｄｔｅｘ／３８ｍｍのモダールレーヨン短繊維が７０質量％になるように計量した後、混綿した。その後、打棉機に投入しラップを作成し、このラップをフラットカードに投入しスライバーを作成した。次に練条工程を２回通した後、粗紡工程を経て粗糸質量０．６ｇ／ｍ、粗糸撚り数０．５回／インチの粗糸を作成した。この粗糸をリング精紡機にて綿番手４０番手の紡績糸を作成した。この際の撚り数は７７０回／ｍであり、次のワインダー工程で紡績糸の欠点除去を行い、コーンに巻取り、８０℃／１０分のスチームセットを実施し残留トルクを低減させた。 The cellulose triacetate short fibers were weighed so that the modal rayon short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 1.3 dtex / 38 mm were 70% by mass, and then mixed. After that, it was put into a hammer and made a lap, and this lap was put into a flat card to create a sliver. Next, after passing through the drawing process twice, a roving yarn having a roving mass of 0.6 g / m and a roving twist number of 0.5 times / inch was prepared through the roving process. A spun yarn of 40th cotton was produced from this roving using a ring spinning machine. The number of twists at this time was 770 times / m, and the defect of the spun yarn was removed in the next winder process, wound around a cone, and steam set at 80 ° C./10 minutes was performed to reduce the residual torque.
綿番手４０番手の前記紡績糸を、ゲージ数２２本／インチ、３３インチの丸編み機でスムース組織に編成を行い、編物を得た。前記編物を染色加工し、仕上げ幅等規格を調整し目付１６０ｇ／ｍ2 の編物を得た。
抗ピリング性、速乾性、風合い、風合い変化を評価した。その結果を表１に示す。
The above-mentioned spun yarn with 40 cotton counts was knitted into a smooth structure with a circular knitting machine having a gauge number of 22 / inch and 33 inches to obtain a knitted fabric. The knitted fabric was dyed and the specifications such as the finished width were adjusted to obtain a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 160 g / m 2 .
Anti-pilling property, quick drying property, texture, and texture change were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.
表１に示すように抗ピリング性が４．５級と優れ、アセテート系繊維の特徴である清涼感を有する好ましい風合い、光沢感に優れた編物となった。この編物は洗濯３０回後も柔らかな風合いを維持するものであった。 As shown in Table 1, the anti-pilling property was excellent at 4.5 grade, and a knitted fabric excellent in a favorable texture and glossiness having a refreshing feeling characteristic of an acetate fiber was obtained. This knitted fabric maintained a soft texture even after 30 washings.
〔実施例２〕
混紡素材を、単繊維繊度１．３ｄｔｅｘ／繊維長３８ｍｍのモダールレーヨン短繊維に変えて、超長綿を用いた以外は実施例１と同様に本発明の紡績糸を作成し、目付１６５ｇ／ｍ2 の編物を得た。評価結果を表１に示す。
表１に示すように抗ピリング性が４．５級と優れ、アセテート系繊維の特徴である清涼感を有する好ましい風合い、光沢感に優れた編物が得られた。
[Example 2]
The spun yarn of the present invention was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the blended material was changed to a modal rayon short fiber having a single fiber fineness of 1.3 dtex / fiber length of 38 mm, and a spun yarn of the present invention was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, and the basis weight was 165 g / m. 2 knittings were obtained. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
As shown in Table 1, a knitted fabric excellent in anti-pilling property of 4.5 grade and having a refreshing feel and glossiness which is a characteristic of acetate fiber was obtained.
〔比較例１〜３〕
比較例１は綿番手４０番手のコーマ綿を用い、実施例１と同様にして編成を行い、仕上げ目付１７０ｇ／ｍ2 の編物を得た。比較例２は、ポリエステル繊維と木綿の混紡糸（綿番手４０番手、ポリエステル繊維３０質量％／木綿７０質量％）を用い、実施例１と同様に編成を行い、仕上げ目付１６５ｇ／ｍ2 の編物を得た。比較例３は、モダールレーヨン短繊維と木綿の混紡糸（綿番手４０番手、モダールレーヨン短繊維５０質量％／木綿５０質量％）を用い、実施例１と同様に編成を行い、仕上げ目付１８０ｇ／ｍ2 の編物を得た。これらの編物は抗ピリング性が１級から２．５級と劣るものであった。
[Comparative Examples 1-3]
Comparative Example 1 was knitted in the same manner as in Example 1 using 40 count cotton combed cotton to obtain a knitted fabric with a finish basis weight of 170 g / m 2 . Comparative Example 2 was knitted in the same manner as in Example 1 using a blended yarn of polyester fiber and cotton (cotton count: 40 count, polyester fiber: 30% by mass / cotton: 70% by mass), and a knitted fabric having a finish basis weight of 165 g / m 2 . Got. Comparative Example 3 was knitted in the same manner as in Example 1 using a mixed yarn of modal rayon short fibers and cotton (cotton count: 40 count, modal rayon short fibers: 50% by mass / cotton: 50% by mass). A k 2 knit was obtained. These knitted fabrics were inferior in anti-pilling properties from grades 1 to 2.5.
〔実施例３〕
実施例１で得たセルローストリアセテート短繊維を１００質量％で紡績を行い綿番手３０番手の紡績糸を得た。セルローストリアセテート短繊維が１００質量％の紡績糸は、綿番手が４０番手では最低糸強力が１００ｇ以下になるため、実用上は綿番手３０番手以上の太いものが好ましい。この紡績糸を用いて１４ゲージの天竺編地を編成し、染色加工で仕上げ幅等規格を調整して目付２００ｇ／ｍ2 の編物を得た。
表１に示すように抗ピリング性５級と優れ、アセテート系繊維の特徴である清涼感を有し光沢感と発色性の優れた編地となった。
Example 3
The cellulose triacetate short fibers obtained in Example 1 were spun at 100% by mass to obtain a spun yarn with 30 cotton counts. A spun yarn having a cellulose triacetate short fiber of 100% by mass has a minimum yarn strength of 100 g or less when the cotton count is 40, and is practically thick with a cotton count of 30 or more. A 14-gauge knitted fabric was knitted using this spun yarn, and the finish width and other specifications were adjusted by dyeing to obtain a knitted fabric with a basis weight of 200 g / m 2 .
As shown in Table 1, the knitted fabric was excellent in anti-pilling grade 5 and had a refreshing feeling characteristic of acetate fibers, and was excellent in glossiness and color development.
〔実施例４〕
混紡素材が、実施例１のモダールレーヨン短繊維を単繊維繊度１．３ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍのポリエステル繊維３０質量％に変えた以外は実施例１と同様に紡績糸を作成した。
編成時に２２ｄｔｅｘのポリウレタン繊維をドラフト２倍で供給し、２８ゲージのベア天竺編地を編成した。染色加工で仕上げ幅等の規格を調整し、目付１６０ｇ／ｍ2 の編物を得た。表１に示すように耐ピリング性能４級と優れ、アセテート系繊維の特徴である清涼感を有し、適度なストレッチ感のある着用感の優れた編物となった。
Example 4
A spun yarn was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the modal rayon short fiber of Example 1 was changed to 30% by mass of polyester fiber having a single fiber fineness of 1.3 dtex and a fiber length of 38 mm.
At the time of knitting, 22 dtex polyurethane fiber was supplied in double draft, and a 28-gauge bare sheet knitted fabric was knitted. Standards such as finish width were adjusted by dyeing, and a knitted fabric with a basis weight of 160 g / m 2 was obtained. As shown in Table 1, the knitted fabric was excellent in pilling resistance grade 4 and had a refreshing feeling characteristic of acetate fibers, and an excellent wearing feeling with an appropriate stretch feeling.
〔実施例５〕
セルローストリアセテート１６７ｄｔｅｘ／４０フィラメント（単繊維繊度４．２ｄｔｅｘ、多葉断面形の普通糸ブライト）を一旦無交絡条件にてサンプリングを行い、約５００本を集束しスタッファーボックスで座屈捲縮加工を行って繊維束を形成した。この際、得られた繊維束の捲縮数は１０〜２５個／インチを有していた。
この繊維束を６本引き揃えトウコンバーターで繊維長５０〜１５０ｍｍの牽切トップを作成した。このセルローストリアセテートトップ（４．２ｄｔｅｘ）を４０質量％と、通常の工程で得た太さ２０マイクロのファインメリノウールのスライバー６０質量％とを前紡工程で混紡し、次いで精紡機にて精紡単糸を紡出し、これを２本引き揃えて合撚を施し、毛番手４０番手の双糸として本発明の紡績糸を得た。糸染め後１４ゲージの横編み機で目付２５０ｇ／ｍ2 の天竺編みの編物を得た。表１に示すように抗ピリング性４級と優れ、アセテート系繊維の特徴である深みのある発色性と光沢感とともに清涼感のある着用感の優れた編地となった。
Example 5
Cellulose triacetate 167 dtex / 40 filaments (single fiber fineness 4.2 dtex, multi-leaf cross-section ordinary yarn bright) is once sampled under untangled conditions, and about 500 pieces are collected and buckled crimped with a stuffer box Thus, a fiber bundle was formed. At this time, the number of crimps of the obtained fiber bundle was 10 to 25 pieces / inch.
Six fiber bundles were aligned, and a check top having a fiber length of 50 to 150 mm was prepared with a tow converter. 40% by weight of this cellulose triacetate top (4.2 dtex) and 60% by weight of fine merino wool sliver 60% obtained in the normal process were blended in the pre-spinning step, and then finely spun in a spinning machine. A single yarn was spun out, two of them were aligned and twisted together, and a spun yarn of the present invention was obtained as a double yarn with 40 hairs. After yarn dyeing, a knitted fabric with a basis weight of 250 g / m 2 was obtained with a 14 gauge flat knitting machine. As shown in Table 1, the knitted fabric was excellent in anti-pilling grade 4 and excellent in cool feeling with a deep color development and glossiness that are characteristic of acetate fibers.
（表１）（実施例１〜５、比較例１〜３）
〔実施例６〕
実施例４のベア天竺編物を染色工程に先立ち、水酸化ナトリウム２．０％の水溶液を用いて９０℃の温度、浴比を１／５０としてケン化工程を行った後、染色仕上げを行って本発明のベア天竺編物を作成した。最終混率としては指定外繊維（セルロース系）２５質量％、モダールレーヨン短繊維３５質量％、ポリエステル繊維３５質量％、ポリウレタン繊維５質量％となる。
表２に示すように抗ピリング性４級と優れ、吸湿時に通気度が増加するとともに乾燥時には通気度が減少する通気可逆性機能を有しており、夏季など発汗しやすいシーズンに好適な着心地の良い編地となった。
Example 6
Prior to the dyeing process, the bare tengu knitted fabric of Example 4 was subjected to a saponification process using an aqueous solution of 2.0% sodium hydroxide at a temperature of 90 ° C. and a bath ratio of 1/50, followed by a dyeing finish. A bear tengu knitted fabric of the present invention was prepared. The final mixing ratio is 25% by mass of non-designated fibers (cellulose type), 35% by mass of modal rayon short fibers, 35% by mass of polyester fibers, and 5% by mass of polyurethane fibers.
As shown in Table 2, it has excellent anti-pilling grade 4 and has a breathable reversible function that increases the air permeability when moisture is absorbed and decreases the air permeability when dry, making it suitable for the season when sweating easily such as in summer. It became a good knitted fabric.
〔実施例７〕
特開２００２- １７３８２１号公報に記載された製法によって得られたトリアセテート成分とジアセテート成分がサイドバイサイドで貼り合された複合繊維の８４ｄｔｅｘ／５８フィラメント（単繊維繊度１．４ｄｔｅｘ、ダルマ型断面形ブライト糸）を一旦無交絡条件にてサンプリングを行い、前記複合繊維を約５００本集束して、スタッファーボックスで座屈捲縮加工を行い、繊維束を形成した。このとき得られた繊維束の捲縮数は１５〜３０個／インチであった。この繊維束を１０本まとめて綿紡績用に繊維長が３８ｍｍの定長カットを行い、１．４ｄｔｅｘのダルマ型断面形の複合紡糸型セルロースアセテート短繊維を得た。混率を複合紡糸型セルロースアセテート短繊維５０質量％、単繊維繊度１．３ｄｔｅｘのモダールレーヨン短繊維５０質量％の混率とし実施例１と同様に綿番手４０番手の紡績糸を得た。この紡績糸と、４０番手のコーマ綿糸を１：１で交互に供給し２０ゲージの目付１２０ｇ／ｍ2 の天竺編物を編成した。染色工程に先立ち、水酸化ナトリウム２．０％の水溶液を用いて温度が７０℃、浴比が１／５０でケン化処理を行ない、ジアセテート成分のみケン化を行った後、仕上げ工程において過度な張力を付与せず、染め上げ有り幅に近い規格で仕上げることにより、本発明の天竺編地を作成した。最終混率としては、指定外繊維（セルロース系）２１質量％、モダールレーヨン短繊維２６質量％、木綿５４質量％である。
Example 7
84 dtex / 58 filament of a composite fiber in which a triacetate component and a diacetate component obtained by the production method described in JP-A-2002-173821 are bonded side by side (single fiber fineness: 1.4 dtex, dharma type cross-section bright yarn) ) Was once sampled under unentangled conditions, and about 500 of the composite fibers were converged and buckled and crimped with a stuffer box to form a fiber bundle. The number of crimps of the fiber bundle obtained at this time was 15 to 30 pieces / inch. Ten of these fiber bundles were combined and cut at a constant length of 38 mm for cotton spinning to obtain a composite spinning type cellulose acetate short fiber having a dharma cross section of 1.4 dtex. The blending rate was 50% by mass of composite-spun cellulose acetate short fibers and 50% by mass of modal rayon short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 1.3 dtex, and a spun yarn with 40 cotton counts was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. This spun yarn and 40th combed cotton yarn were alternately supplied at a ratio of 1: 1 to knitted a 20-gauge fabric weight of 120 g / m 2 . Prior to the dyeing process, saponification treatment was performed using an aqueous solution of 2.0% sodium hydroxide at a temperature of 70 ° C. and a bath ratio of 1/50. After saponifying only the diacetate component, The tension sheet knitted fabric of the present invention was prepared by finishing with a standard close to the width with dyeing without applying a proper tension. The final mixing ratio is 21% by mass of non-designated fibers (cellulose type), 26% by mass of modal rayon short fibers, and 54% by mass of cotton.
表２に示すように抗ピリング性４級と優れ、吸湿時に通気度が増加するとともに乾燥時には通気度が減少する通気可逆性機能を有しており、夏季など発汗しやすいシーズンに好適な着心地の良い編地となった。 As shown in Table 2, it has excellent anti-pilling grade 4 and has a breathable reversible function that increases the air permeability when moisture is absorbed and decreases the air permeability when dry, making it suitable for the season when sweating easily such as in summer. It became a good knitted fabric.
（表２）（実施例６，７）
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| CN108560133A (en) * | 2018-04-12 | 2018-09-21 | 葛炳峰 | The improved process of three acetic acid interlock fabrics |
| WO2021050266A1 (en) * | 2019-09-13 | 2021-03-18 | Eastman Chemical Company | Improving pilling resistance in fabrics using cellulose acetate staple fibers |
| CN113279114A (en) * | 2021-05-31 | 2021-08-20 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Production method of diacetate fiber blended elastic yarn-dyed fabric |
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| CN108560133A (en) * | 2018-04-12 | 2018-09-21 | 葛炳峰 | The improved process of three acetic acid interlock fabrics |
| WO2021050266A1 (en) * | 2019-09-13 | 2021-03-18 | Eastman Chemical Company | Improving pilling resistance in fabrics using cellulose acetate staple fibers |
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| US20220341064A1 (en) * | 2019-09-13 | 2022-10-27 | Eastman Chemical Company | Improving pilling resistance in fabrics using cellulose acetate staple fibers |
| CN113279114A (en) * | 2021-05-31 | 2021-08-20 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Production method of diacetate fiber blended elastic yarn-dyed fabric |
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