JP3665293B2 - Acetate multifilament yarn, production method thereof and woven / knitted fabric thereof - Google Patents

Description

【００４４】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、アセテート本来の持つ光沢感を維持しつつ、嵩高性、軽量感のある清涼、ドライタッチな風合いとスパンタッチ感を持ったアセテートマルチフィラメント糸および該マルチフィラメント糸を含む織編物が得られる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a bulky acetate multifilament yarn rich in coolness and lightness, a production method thereof, and a woven or knitted fabric thereof.
[0002]
[Prior art]
As a means for imparting a bulky and lightweight feeling to the multifilament yarn, it has been carried out to positively generate loops, knots and the like by a fluid entanglement process in a post-processing step. In this method, the entanglement process is performed in the region where the yarn is excessively supplied, so that the constituent fibers are complicatedly interlaced, and complicated loops are randomly generated, so that a bulky feeling and a swelling feeling can be obtained. The feeling of fluffiness without a waist is likely to be an uncompromising texture. Further, when a twist of about several hundred to 2000 T / M is applied to correct this, the number of loops is reduced and the tension is improved, but the feeling of swelling is poor.
[0003]
On the other hand, cellulose acetate fiber has moderate hygroscopicity in addition to excellent yarn properties such as elegant luster, deep color development, and dry feel, but has low physical properties such as high elongation. When advanced fluid entanglement treatment or additional twisting treatment is performed, single fiber breakage (fluff) and fluff are likely to occur, and it is difficult to obtain a yarn that is bulky and lightweight.
[0004]
For this reason, as a method for imparting a high degree of entanglement to cellulose cellulose acetate long fibers, JP-A-10-110337 discloses a method of performing entanglement treatment in a state in which a cellulose acetate-soluble solvent is contained in cellulose acetate long fibers. Is described. However, this method is to obtain a highly entangled composite entangled yarn with no fluff and loops consisting of cellulose acetate long fibers and other long fibers. Is not obtained.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention solves the disadvantages of the prior art, and provides an acetate multifilament yarn having a high bulkiness and a light feeling, a production method thereof, and a woven or knitted fabric thereof.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The first gist of the present invention resides in an acetate multifilament yarn that simultaneously satisfies the following formula.
[0007]
(1) 1.5 ≦ average single fiber fineness (dtex) ≦ 6
(2) 84 ≦ total fineness (dtex) ≦ 200
(3) 80 ≦ number of entanglements (pieces / m) ≦ 200
(4) 30 ≦ number of loops (pieces / m) ≦ 50
(5) 1.4 ≦ bulk height (cc / g) ≦ 2.2
The second gist of the present invention is that, in dry spinning of acetate fiber, 12 to 25% of acetate-soluble solvent remains in the spun yarn from the spinning tube outlet to the winder. And a method for producing an acetate multifilament yarn, wherein fluid entanglement is performed at a relaxation rate of 1.5 to 3.0%.
[0008]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be specifically described.
[0009]
The cellulose acetate multifilament yarn of the present invention has an average single fiber fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 6 dtex or less, more preferably 2.4 dtex or more and 4.2 dtex or less, and the total fineness of the multifilament yarn is 84 dtex or more and 200 dtex or less. is necessary.
[0010]
When the average single fiber fineness is less than 1.5 dtex, the decrease in the single fiber elongation is remarkable and fluff is generated. Further, if the average single fiber fineness exceeds 6 dtex, the yarn itself becomes harder to bend, so that even if the fluid entanglement processing conditions are increased, a sufficient number of entanglements and a strong entanglement form cannot be obtained.
[0011]
On the other hand, if the total fineness is less than 84 dtex, the strength of the entire multifilament yarn is low, the passability in post-processing is poor, and troubles such as yarn breakage occur. Furthermore, if it exceeds 200 dtex, the action of the fluid entanglement process becomes insufficient, and the number of entanglements becomes insufficient.
[0012]
Furthermore, in the present invention, the number of entanglements needs to be 80 / m or more and 200 / m or less in the longitudinal direction of the fiber. The form of the entangled portion is tightly entangled by complex mixing between the single fibers, and the bulkiness incorporating the air layer and an appropriate repulsion portion against bending are formed, contributing to the stretched texture.
[0013]
When the number of entanglements is less than 80 / m, the strength of entanglement between fibers is relatively weak, and the intertwisting or weaving process in the post-processing process causes a decrease or deformation of the entangled part, resulting in a less air layer and high bulk. This lowers the property and increases the contact friction with the human skin, thereby impairing the dry touch feeling of the woven or knitted fabric. On the other hand, if it exceeds 200 pieces / m, damage to the yarn due to the fluid entanglement treatment is great, and single fiber breakage and fluff are generated.
[0014]
Further, in the present invention, the number of loops needs to be 30 / m or more and 50 / m or less. The loop remaining in the longitudinal direction of the fiber remains as a yarn having an appropriate degree of freedom even after twisting and twisting, and contributes to the span touch texture on the product. As a result, the glossiness inherent in acetate intended by the present invention is achieved. While maintaining the above, it is possible to demonstrate a bulky, lightweight, cool, dry touch and span touch feeling. This loop remains on the surface of the fabric even in a woven or knitted product obtained by combining with other materials in post-processing, and can maintain a span touch feel.
[0015]
When the number of loops is less than 30 / m, the loops are stretched in the post-processing step to become plain yarns, and a bulky feeling and a swelling feeling cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it exceeds 50 pieces / m, the yarn breakage or the feeling of wiping in the product occurs in post-twisting, in-twisting with multifilament yarns other than acetate, and in the compounding process, resulting in poor quality.
[0016]
The loop referred to in the present invention is an arc-shaped slack portion of a single fiber, which is a portion that is separated from the fiber bundle by 0.5 mm or more and has a length of 3 mm or more and less than 10 mm. For the measurement of the number of loops, a sample 1 m was sampled, measured with a VH7000 microscope (manufactured by Keyence Corporation) at a magnification of 50 times, measured three times per sample, and obtained as an average value.
[0017]
In the present invention, the bulk height must be 1.4 cc / g or more and 2.2 cc / g or less. If the bulk height is less than 1.4 cc / g, the bulkiness and lightness cannot be obtained due to a decrease in the number of loops and a decrease in the number of entanglements. On the other hand, if it exceeds 2.2 cc / g, the product has a strong feeling of wiping and is not preferred.
[0018]
Further, in the present invention, the frictional resistance is preferably 0.7 or less. When the frictional resistance exceeds 0.7, the refreshing feeling and the dry feeling are likely to be impaired.
[0019]
Next, a method for producing the acetate multifilament yarn of the present invention will be described.
[0020]
Normally, in dry spinning of acetate fiber, the spinning dope discharged from the spinning nozzle is desolvated with heated air from a drying cylinder to form a yarn, and after the oil agent is adhered to the outside of the heating cylinder with an oiling roller, the winding roller Take up with,
In the present invention, 12-25% acetate-soluble solvent remains in the yarn from the spinning tube outlet to the winder, and the fluid entanglement treatment is performed at a relaxation rate of 1.5-3.0%. It is necessary to do.
[0021]
Acetate fibers have low strength and elongation characteristics, so fluff and thread breakage are likely to occur when subjected to a high degree of fluid entanglement treatment, but 12-25% acetate soluble solvent remains and is in a plastic state. For example, fluff and yarn breakage can be prevented even when performing advanced fluid entanglement processing.
[0022]
If the amount of the solvent soluble in acetate in the yarn is less than 12%, the balance between the drying of the fiber surface layer and the inside of the fiber during fiber formation from the spinning solution is poor, and a hollow portion appears in the fiber cross section, and the plasticity The effect is not sufficient and fluff and thread breakage occur during fluid entanglement processing. On the other hand, if the solvent content exceeds 25%, adhesion between single fibers tends to occur and the decrease in elongation also increases.
[0023]
The acetate-soluble solvent content in the yarn can be appropriately adjusted depending on the drying temperature in the drying cylinder and the spinning speed.
[0024]
Furthermore, in the present invention, it is necessary to perform the fluid entanglement process in a relaxed state with a relaxation rate of 1.5 to 3.0% when performing the fluid entanglement process. By performing the fluid entanglement process in a relaxed state of 1.5 to 3.0%, it is possible to form a loop necessary for imparting a sense of bulk and swelling, which is an object of the present invention.
[0025]
In a relaxed state of less than 1.5%, a loop necessary for imparting a bulky feeling and a swollen feeling which are the object of the present invention cannot be obtained. In the relaxed state exceeding 3.0%, the yarn is loosened in the relaxed region, and the yarn breakage occurs.
[0026]
In the relaxed state, two rollers are installed between the spinning tube outlet and the winder, and the speed is adjusted by the difference in speed between the rollers.
[0027]
Furthermore, the acetate multifilament yarn of the present invention may be used alone as a woven or knitted fabric, or may be combined with a multifilament yarn other than the acetate multifilament yarn to form a woven or knitted fabric. A composite yarn composed of multifilament yarns other than acetate multifilament yarns also has a dry touch feel characteristic in which the refreshing feeling of acetate multifilament yarns is exhibited in the fabric.
[0028]
The composite method is not particularly limited when composited with a multifilament yarn other than acetate multifilament yarn, but composite methods such as twisting, blending, and covering are desirable, and more desirably, a span touch texture by a loop is left. It is desirable to twist together under medium twist conditions of about ~ 600 twists. Further, the method for making the knitted or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but the method using union or union is preferable.
[0029]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to examples. Evaluation was performed by the following method.
[0030]
(Bulk height)
A multi-filament yarn was wound up to a certain volume with a tension of 0.11 g / dtex on a spool-shaped roll having an inner diameter of 45 mmφ, an outer diameter of 110 mmφ, and a width of 6 mm, and the weight at that time was measured. .
[0031]
Bulk height = V / W (cc / g)
V: Volume of roll take-up portion W: Weight of take-up yarn (friction resistance)
Tension level when the sample is run at a running speed of 30 m / min with an initial load of 5 g using a running yarn method friction measuring device MODEL YF-850 (manufactured by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd.) (T1), the tension level (T2) when a friction angle of 180 degrees was passed with a frictional body having a mirror-chrome plating of 30 mmφ was recorded on a chart, and obtained by the following equation.
[0032]
Friction resistance = (T2−T1) / (T1 + T2)
(Number of confounding)
Entanglement counter C. Measurement was performed under the following conditions using -3 type (manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd.). The sum of the average length of the spread portion and the length of the entangled portion was defined as one entanglement, and the number of entanglements per unit length was measured.
[0033]
Yarn traveling tension: 0.1 × g / dtex
Yarn traveling speed: 15 m / min
L level: 200
Number of measurements: N = 500
(Solvent content)
About 10g of yarn containing the solvent content immediately after exiting the drying cylinder is sampled by dry spinning, and the sample weight (a) is measured. The solvent content is measured in a draft dryer at 110 ° C for 60 minutes. The sample weight (b) after air drying was measured with a desiccator, and the solvent content in the yarn was determined by the following formula.
[0034]
Solvent content = (a−b) × 100 / b
(Examples 1-3 Comparative Examples 1-2)
A spinning stock solution in which cellulose triacetate with an average degree of acetylation of 61.6% is dissolved in a mixed solution of methylene chloride and methanol is prepared, spun from a spinning nozzle into heated air in a dry cylinder at 53 ° C, and wound from the outlet of the spinning cylinder Rollers are installed at two locations until the take-off machine, and the relaxation rate shown in Table 1 is set according to the speed ratio of the rollers. Further, the rollers are introduced into an interlace treatment device and entangled with a compression air pressure of 0.25 MPa. An 84 dtex / 20f triacetate filament was wound at a take-up speed of 500 m / min. The residual solvent amount in the yarn immediately after leaving the drying cylinder was 18.5%.
[0035]
The texture was evaluated with a fabric using warp and weft yarn obtained by twisting the obtained acetate multifilament yarn and 56 dtex12f side-by-side polyester multifilament yarn at 1600Z. The fabrics of Examples 1 to 3 of the present invention had a feeling of rebound, and a good texture having both a dry touch and a span touch with a refreshing feeling was obtained.
[0036]
In Comparative Example 1, the number of entanglements and the number of loops were low, and the bulkiness and dry feeling were lacking.
[0037]
In Comparative Example 2, since the number of loops exceeded 50 / m, yarn breakage occurred when twisted with the polyester multifilament yarn, and the fabric also had a feeling of wiping, resulting in low quality.
[0038]
(Comparative Examples 3-6)
Spinning was performed under the same spinning conditions as in Example 1 except that the total fineness, single fiber fineness, and relaxation rate shown in Table 1 were used.
[0039]
In Comparative Example 3, since the total fineness was small, the strength of the entire acetate multifilament yarn was low, the strength of the entire multifilament yarn was low, the passability in post-processing was poor, and yarn breakage occurred.
[0040]
In Comparative Example 4, since the average single fiber fineness was small, fluff frequently occurred in the fluid entanglement treatment, the passability in the post-processing was poor, and the resulting woven fabric also had a low quality.
[0041]
In Comparative Example 5, since the average single fiber fineness was large, the expression of the loop was insufficient, and the bulkiness and lightness were lacking.
[0042]
In Comparative Example 6, since the total fineness was large, the effect of the fluid entanglement treatment was insufficient, the number of entanglements was insufficient, and the resulting woven fabric was insufficient in dry feeling.
[0043]
[Table 1]

[0044]
【The invention's effect】
ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the acetate multifilament yarn with the bulkiness, the coolness of a lightweight feeling, a dry touch texture, and a span touch feeling, maintaining the glossiness inherent in acetate, and a woven or knitted fabric including the multifilament yarn Is obtained.

Claims (5)

Acetate multifilament yarn satisfying the following formula (1) 1.5 ≦ average single fiber fineness (dtex) ≦ 6
(2) 84 ≦ total fineness (dtex) ≦ 200
(3) 80 ≦ number of entanglements (pieces / m) ≦ 200
(4) 30 ≦ number of loops (pieces / m) ≦ 50
(5) 1.4 ≦ bulk height (cc / g) ≦ 2.2 In the dry spinning of acetate fiber, 12-25% acetate-soluble solvent remains in the spun yarn from the spinning tube outlet to the winder, and the relaxation rate is 1.5-3. A method for producing an acetate multifilament yarn, wherein the fluid entanglement treatment is performed at 0%. A woven or knitted fabric comprising the acetate multifilament yarn according to claim 1. A composite yarn comprising the acetate multifilament yarn according to claim 1 and a multifilament yarn other than acetate. A woven or knitted fabric comprising the composite yarn according to claim 4.