JP2015067914A - Denim-like cloth - Google Patents

Denim-like cloth Download PDF

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JP2015067914A
JP2015067914A JP2013202860A JP2013202860A JP2015067914A JP 2015067914 A JP2015067914 A JP 2015067914A JP 2013202860 A JP2013202860 A JP 2013202860A JP 2013202860 A JP2013202860 A JP 2013202860A JP 2015067914 A JP2015067914 A JP 2015067914A
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denim
yarn
polyamide
moisture
cotton
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JP6109031B2 (en
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中西 輝薫
Terushige Nakanishi
輝薫 中西
酒部 一郎
Ichiro Sakabe
一郎 酒部
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Unitika Trading Co Ltd
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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a denim-like cloth comprising water absorption and moisture sorption and desorption equal to what is required for cotton denim, being superior to water absorption and quick-drying, contact cool feeling and extension recovery of a weft direction, having light volume, and being superior in texture in wearing.SOLUTION: As for a denim-like cloth, warp is cotton slub yarn thinner than cotton yarn number 8/1, weft is bicomponent filament yarn of crimp finished yarn using polyamide-based moisture sorption and desorption fiber and polyurethane yarn, and a basis weight is not more than 300 g/m.

Description

本発明はデニム調織物に関する。   The present invention relates to a denim fabric.

ジーンズやデニムジャケット等に用いられるデニム織物は、一般にインジゴ染料でロープ染色して得られた綿の太番手紡績糸を経糸に用いた先染織物である。綿に代えて合繊繊維を用いた織物も提案されているが、一般的に利用されているとはいえない。なぜなら、ポリエステル、ポリアミドなどの一般的な合成繊維は、強さやイージーケア性にすぐれているが、綿と比べて吸湿性に劣るため、生地の厚いデニムにすると蒸れるなど、着用快適性の点で問題を有するためである。   Denim fabrics used for jeans, denim jackets, and the like are pre-dyed fabrics that use thick cotton spun yarns obtained by rope dyeing with indigo dyes as warps. A fabric using synthetic fibers instead of cotton has also been proposed, but it cannot be generally used. This is because common synthetic fibers such as polyester and polyamide are superior in strength and easy-care properties, but they are less hygroscopic than cotton. This is because it has a problem.

合成繊維を用いたときのこのような問題を克服するために、繊維素材にナイロンを選定し、その断面を中空として綿並の吸水性を発揮させたナイロンスパン織物が提案されている(特許文献1)。しかし、通常のポリアミド繊維は溶融紡糸により製造されるため、高中空構造になりにくく、また、ポリマー自体のモジュラスが低いことから、紡績、織布、染色など各工程を通過する際にかかる様々な圧力で中空構造がつぶれてしまうという問題点がある。   In order to overcome such problems when using synthetic fibers, nylon spun fabrics have been proposed in which nylon is selected as the fiber material and its cross section is hollow to exhibit the same water absorption as cotton (Patent Literature). 1). However, since ordinary polyamide fibers are manufactured by melt spinning, it is difficult to form a high hollow structure, and since the modulus of the polymer itself is low, there are a variety of processes that take place during each process such as spinning, woven fabric, and dyeing. There is a problem that the hollow structure is crushed by pressure.

中空部を維持することで、吸水性を綿並みに維持し、かつ軽量感や保温性も狙ったナイロンデニムも提案されている(特許文献2参照)。これは、芯部にポリエステルを配置するとともに鞘部にポリアミドを配置した芯鞘複合の短繊維にて構成された紡績糸を使用し、製織後にアルカリ処理によりエステル部分を溶解溶出して綿の断面のように中空軽量とするものである。ナイロン紡績糸とすることで保温性の向上効果にもつながるという利点がある。しかし、アルカリ溶解という後工程は環境負荷が大きく、また特許文献2のナイロンデニムでは伸縮性に関する対応がなされていない。   Nylon denim which maintains the water absorption level like cotton by maintaining the hollow part and also aims at lightness and heat retention has been proposed (see Patent Document 2). This uses a spun yarn composed of short fibers of a core-sheath composite in which polyester is disposed in the core and polyamide is disposed in the sheath. It is made hollow and lightweight like this. Nylon spun yarn has the advantage of improving heat retention. However, the post-process of alkali dissolution has a large environmental load, and the nylon denim of Patent Document 2 does not deal with stretchability.

特にレディースのジーパンでは、細くかつ股上の浅い、下半身に密着したデザインの流行により、座位時のパンツの伸縮が望まれている。つまり、ストレッチデニムへの要求が強まっている。これに対応するために、スパンデックス等を混用したストレッチデニム(特許文献3)や、スパンデックス以外でもポリエステル捲縮糸を用いたもの(特許文献4)が提案されている。   In particular, ladies' jeans are expected to expand and contract during sitting because of the trend of thin, shallow crotch and close-fitting designs. In other words, there is an increasing demand for stretch denim. In order to cope with this, stretch denim (patent document 3) using a mixture of spandex and the like, and those using polyester crimped yarn other than spandex (patent document 4) have been proposed.

しかしながら、スパンデックス等を混用したストレッチデニム、すなわち綿とポリウレタン複合糸を緯糸に使用したデニムでは、伸長性はあるものの回復性に劣るためにひざ抜けが発生しやすく、しかもデニム自体が重量のある織物であるだけに速乾性に劣り、したがって濡れたときに乾き難いといった問題がある。また、特許文献4に記載のようにポリエステル捲縮糸を使用した場合は、吸湿性の低下やポリエステル独特のドライ感から、風合い面では従来の綿デニムよりも劣るといった問題点がある。   However, stretch denim mixed with spandex, etc., that is, denim using cotton and polyurethane composite yarn as weft, is stretchable but inferior in recoverability, so it is prone to kneeling and the denim itself is heavy. Therefore, there is a problem that it is inferior in quick-drying property and therefore difficult to dry when wet. Moreover, when a polyester crimped yarn is used as described in Patent Document 4, there is a problem that the texture is inferior to that of conventional cotton denim due to a decrease in hygroscopicity and a dry feeling peculiar to polyester.

特開2002−302844号公報JP 2002-302844 A 特開2004−316003号公報JP 2004-316003 A 特表平10−508913号公報Japanese National Patent Publication No. 10-508913 特開2002−155449号公報JP 2002-155449 A

本発明は、綿デニムに要求されるのと同等の吸水性および吸湿性を備えたうえで、さらに、吸水速乾性、接触涼感性、緯方向の伸長回復性に優れ、軽量感があり、着用時の風合いにも優れたデニム調織物を提供することを技術的な課題とする。   The present invention has water absorption and moisture absorption equivalent to those required for cotton denim, and is further superior in water absorption quick drying, contact coolness, and stretch recovery in the weft direction, and has a lightweight feel and is worn. The technical challenge is to provide a denim-like woven fabric with excellent texture.

本発明者らは、ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維の捲縮加工糸とポリウレタン糸との複合糸を緯糸に使用することで、綿素材と同等の吸水性、吸湿性を達成したうえで、伸びだけでなく戻り性も良好であり、着用時の接触涼感性や風合いにも優れるとともに、経糸に配する綿スラブ糸に綿番手8/1より細番手を使用した生地設計とすることで、従来にない軽量感と速乾性を合わせもったデニム調織物とすることができることを見出し、本発明の完成に至った。   The present inventors use a composite yarn of a polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fiber crimped yarn and polyurethane yarn as a weft to achieve water absorption and hygroscopicity equivalent to that of a cotton material, and then only elongation. In addition, it has good returnability, excellent contact coolness and texture when worn, and has been designed with a fabric design that uses a fine count from cotton count 8/1 for cotton slab yarn to be placed on the warp. It has been found that it can be made into a denim-like woven fabric having a combination of light weight and quick-drying, and the present invention has been completed.

すなわち本発明のデニム調織物は、経糸が綿番手8/1よりも細手の綿スラブ糸であり、緯糸がポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維を用いた捲縮加工糸とポリウレタン糸との複合糸であり、目付が300g/m以下であることを特徴とする。 That is, in the denim-like woven fabric of the present invention, the warp is a cotton slab yarn that is finer than the cotton count 8/1, and the weft is a composite yarn of a crimped yarn using a polyamide-based moisture-absorbing and releasing fiber and a polyurethane yarn. Yes, the basis weight is 300 g / m 2 or less.

本発明のデニム調織物によると、経糸を綿スラブ糸にて構成するとともに、緯糸度をポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維を含む複合糸にて構成したため、綿デニムと同等の吸水性、吸湿性を達成することができる。また300g/m以下の低目付であることから吸水速乾性を達成することができ、ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維によって接触涼感性を達成することができる。緯糸をポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維を用いた捲縮加工糸とポリウレタン糸との複合糸にて構成したため、緯方向の伸長回復性に優れ、さらに300g/m以下の低目付であることにもとづく軽量感と、ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維を構成するポリアミド特有の着用時のソフトな風合いにも優れたデニム調織物を提供することができる。 According to the denim-like woven fabric of the present invention, the warp is composed of cotton slab yarn and the weft is composed of composite yarn including polyamide moisture-absorbing / releasing fibers, achieving water absorption and moisture absorption equivalent to cotton denim. can do. Moreover, since it has a low basis weight of 300 g / m 2 or less, it is possible to achieve water-absorbing quick-drying properties, and it is possible to achieve cool contact feeling with polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fibers. Based on the fact that the weft is composed of a composite yarn of a crimped yarn using a polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fiber and a polyurethane yarn, so that it has excellent stretch recovery in the weft direction and has a low basis weight of 300 g / m 2 or less. It is possible to provide a denim-like woven fabric that is excellent in lightness and soft texture at the time of wearing, which is unique to polyamides that constitute polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fibers.

本発明のデニム調織物は、通常のデニムと同等の実用性を維持しながら、吸水性、吸湿性を阻害することなく、吸水速乾性、接触涼感性、緯方向の伸長回復性、軽量性、風合いに優れたものである。詳細には、本発明のデニム調織物は、ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維を用いた捲縮加工糸と、ポリウレタン糸との複合糸を緯糸に使用し、経糸には綿番手8/1よりも細番手の綿スラブ糸を使用した生地設計としたものである。これにより、通常の綿デニムと同等の吸水性、吸湿性を阻害することなく、伸びだけでなく戻り性すなわち伸びからの回復性も良好であり、着用時の接触涼感性に優れるとともに、単位面積あたりの織物の目付けが軽く、風合いも良好なデニム調織物を実現することができる。   The denim-like woven fabric of the present invention maintains water-absorbing and moisture-absorbing properties while maintaining practical utility equivalent to that of ordinary denim, water-absorbing quick-drying, contact coolness, weft recovery, lightness, It has an excellent texture. Specifically, the denim-like fabric of the present invention uses a composite yarn of a crimped yarn using a polyamide-based moisture absorbing / releasing fiber and a polyurethane yarn as a weft, and the warp is finer than cotton count 8/1. The fabric design uses count cotton slab yarn. As a result, the water absorbency and hygroscopicity equivalent to those of normal cotton denim are not impaired, and not only the elongation but also the returnability, that is, the recovery from the elongation is good, the contact cool feeling when worn is excellent, and the unit area It is possible to realize a denim-like woven fabric with a light fabric weight and good texture.

本発明のデニム調織物は、その単位面積あたりの質量(目付)が300g/m以下であることが必要であり、また着用時の清涼感を示す接触涼感性Qmaxが0.20w/cm以上であることが好ましい。 The denim-like woven fabric of the present invention needs to have a mass per unit area (weight per unit area) of 300 g / m 2 or less, and a contact cool sensation Qmax indicating a cool feeling when worn is 0.20 w / cm 2. The above is preferable.

従来から知られているデニムは、一般に高密度、太番手で織物に形成されることから、必然的に高質量となり、500g/m前後の目付が普通である。しかし、かかる高質量にもとづく重量感が着用快適性を著しく損ねる結果を招いている現状がある。また、重量感を有するものであるため、すなわち高目付であるため、洗濯後に乾き難く、速乾性に劣る。一方、機能性を付加したデニムの開発志向が進むにつれて、速乾性やドライ感に優れた機能性ポリエステル加工糸を活用した製品も、多数上市されている。しかし、それら機能性ポリエステル加工糸を活用した製品は、直接肌に接する部分にポリエステルが配されるため、着用時の風合いとしてのソフト感や滑らかさという面では、決して満足のいくものではない。 Conventionally known denim is generally formed into a woven fabric with a high density and a thick count, so it inevitably has a high mass and a basis weight of around 500 g / m 2 is common. However, there is a current situation in which the feeling of weight based on such a high mass leads to a result that the wearing comfort is remarkably impaired. Moreover, since it has a feeling of weight, ie, it has a high basis weight, it is difficult to dry after washing and is inferior in quick-drying. On the other hand, as the development of denim with added functionality progresses, many products using functional polyester processed yarns with excellent quick-drying and dry feeling are on the market. However, products utilizing these functional polyester processed yarns are not satisfactory in terms of softness and smoothness as a texture when worn because polyester is arranged on the part that directly contacts the skin.

本発明のデニム調織物は、目付が300g/m以下であることから吸水した後の速乾性を有する。速乾性の指標としては、吸水した後の乾燥時において、残留水分率が10%に至るまでの時間を用いることができる。本発明のデニム調織物は、この時間を90分以下とすることができる。 The denim-like woven fabric of the present invention has a quick drying property after absorbing water because the basis weight is 300 g / m 2 or less. As an indicator of quick drying, the time until the residual moisture content reaches 10% at the time of drying after absorbing water can be used. In the denim fabric of the present invention, this time can be 90 minutes or less.

本発明のデニム調織物は、代表的には夏場の汗ばむ季節に快適性を維持して着用できる用途に供され得るものであるが、そのために、吸水性だけではなく、綿同等の吸湿性や、着用時の動きに追随するストレッチ性、また速乾性といった機能が重要である。しかも、上述のように生地の目付が300g/m以下であるという軽量性が重要である。 The denim-like woven fabric of the present invention can be typically used for applications that can be worn while maintaining comfort in the sweaty season of summer, and therefore, not only water absorption but also moisture absorption equivalent to cotton Functions such as stretchability and quick-drying to follow the movement when worn are important. Moreover, as described above, the light weight that the fabric weight is 300 g / m 2 or less is important.

目付を300g/m以下とするために、本発明においては、後述のように経糸に用いる綿スラブ糸として8/1よりも細番手のものを使用することが必要である。さらに、目付を300g/m以下とするためには、ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維を用いた捲縮加工糸とポリウレタン糸との複合糸にて構成される緯糸の繊度などを適宜に調整することが必要である。 In order to make the basis weight 300 g / m 2 or less, in the present invention, as described later, it is necessary to use a cotton slab yarn having a finer count than 8/1 as the warp yarn. Furthermore, in order to reduce the basis weight to 300 g / m 2 or less, the fineness of the weft composed of the composite yarn of the crimped yarn and the polyurethane yarn using the polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fibers is appropriately adjusted. is necessary.

本発明のデニム調織物は、かかる軽量感を実現した上で、接触涼感を表す接触涼感性(Qmax)が0.2W/cm以上の高い値を示すことが可能である。ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維を用いているためである。このQmaxが0.2W/cm以上であるとは、着用時に実感できる接触量感性能を満足するものである。 The denim-like woven fabric of the present invention can achieve such a light feeling and can exhibit a high value of 0.2 W / cm 2 or more for the cool contact feeling (Qmax) representing the cool contact feeling. This is because polyamide-based moisture absorbing / releasing fibers are used. When this Qmax is 0.2 W / cm 2 or more, it satisfies the contact amount sensation performance that can be felt when worn.

本発明のデニム調織物のストレッチ性に関しては、緯方向の伸長率が20%以上であることが好ましく、25%以上であることがより好ましい。回復率は65%以上であることが好ましく、75%以上であることがより好ましい。伸長率が20%を下回ると、着用時の動きに対して追随性が悪く不快な着用感となりやすい。また回復性が65%を下回ると、ひざ抜け等が発生しやすく外観的な品位の低下につながりやすい。このような緯方向の伸長率及び回復率は、緯糸を構成する複合糸におけるポリウレタン糸によって達成することができる。詳細には、所要の伸長率及び回復率は、市場で入手できる一般的なポリウレタン糸によって達成することができる。そして、緯糸を構成する複合糸がポリウレタン糸とポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維を用いた捲縮加工糸とによって形成されているため、捲縮加工糸はポリウレタン糸の伸縮を阻害することがなく、よってポリウレタン糸による所要の伸長率および回復率を存分に発現させることができる。   Regarding the stretchability of the denim fabric of the present invention, the elongation in the weft direction is preferably 20% or more, and more preferably 25% or more. The recovery rate is preferably 65% or more, and more preferably 75% or more. When the elongation rate is less than 20%, the following performance tends to be poor with respect to the movement at the time of wearing, and an unpleasant wearing feeling tends to occur. On the other hand, if the recoverability is less than 65%, knee breakage or the like is likely to occur, and the appearance quality is likely to deteriorate. Such an extension rate and recovery rate in the weft direction can be achieved by the polyurethane yarn in the composite yarn constituting the weft yarn. In particular, the required elongation and recovery can be achieved with common polyurethane yarns available on the market. Since the composite yarn constituting the weft is formed by the polyurethane yarn and the crimped yarn using the polyamide-based moisture-absorbing and releasing fibers, the crimped yarn does not hinder the expansion and contraction of the polyurethane yarn. The required elongation rate and recovery rate due to the polyurethane yarn can be fully expressed.

本発明のデニム調織物は、緯糸がポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維を含み、また経糸が綿スラブ糸にて構成されるために、高度な吸放湿性を有する。例えば、25℃×60%RHの雰囲気から34℃×90%RHの雰囲気に移した時の吸湿率の増加(RMA)が3%以上であり、逆に34℃×90%RHの雰囲気から25℃×60%RHの雰囲気に移した時の吸湿率の減少、すなわち放湿率(RMD)が3%以上である吸放湿性を有することができるものである。これによって、吸放湿性に優れて蒸れ感を軽減する効果を発揮することができる。これは、25℃×60%RHの雰囲気で運動して発汗したときの衣服と肌との間の雰囲気が34℃×90%RHにあるといわれていることから、発汗状態での衣服への吸湿により衣服と肌との間の湿気を吸収することで良好な着用感を維持させるものである。   The denim-like woven fabric of the present invention has a high level of moisture absorption and desorption because the weft includes polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fibers and the warp is composed of cotton slab yarn. For example, the increase in moisture absorption (RMA) when transferred from an atmosphere of 25 ° C. × 60% RH to an atmosphere of 34 ° C. × 90% RH is 3% or more, and conversely, 25% from an atmosphere of 34 ° C. × 90% RH. Decrease in moisture absorption when transferred to an atmosphere of ° C x 60% RH, that is, moisture absorption / release with a moisture release rate (RMD) of 3% or more. Thereby, it is excellent in moisture absorption / release property and can exhibit the effect of reducing the feeling of stuffiness. This is because it is said that the atmosphere between the clothes and the skin when sweating by exercising in an atmosphere of 25 ° C. × 60% RH is 34 ° C. × 90% RH. A good wearing feeling is maintained by absorbing moisture between the clothes and the skin by moisture absorption.

このようなデニム調織物の緯糸を構成するポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維としては、吸放湿性を有する化合物とポリアミドとをブレンドして紡糸した繊維や、吸放湿性を有する化合物を芯成分とするかあるいは吸放湿性を有する化合物とポリアミドとのブレンド物を芯成分とし、ポリアミドを鞘成分として紡糸した芯鞘型複合繊維などが挙げられる。そして本発明のポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維は、仮撚加工等の施された捲縮糸であることが必要であり、それによって所要の緯方向の伸長回復性を発現することが可能である。   As the polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fibers constituting the wefts of denim-like woven fabrics, are fibers made by blending and spinning moisture-absorbing / releasing compounds and polyamides, or compounds having moisture-absorbing / releasing properties as core components? Or the core-sheath type | mold composite fiber etc. which spun using the blend of the compound which has a moisture absorption / release property, and a polyamide as a core component and using polyamide as a sheath component are mentioned. The polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fiber of the present invention needs to be a crimped yarn that has been subjected to false twisting or the like, and can thereby exhibit a desired stretch recovery in the weft direction.

ここで用いられるポリアミドとしては、ナイロン6、ナイロン66、ナイロン46等が挙げられる。ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維の性状は、デニム調織物の特性上、長繊維糸条が適している。   Examples of the polyamide used here include nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 46, and the like. As the properties of the polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fibers, long fiber yarns are suitable because of the characteristics of the denim fabric.

吸放湿性を有する化合物としては、良好な吸放湿性を有し、色調変化の少ないものであればよい。詳細には、ポリアルキレンオキサイドとポリオールと脂肪族ジイソシアネート化合物との反応によって得られるポリアルキレンオキサイド変性物が好ましい。このポリアルキレンオキサイド変性物の原料として用いられるポリアルキレンオキサイドとしては、ポリエチレンオキサイド、ポリプロピレンオキサイド、両者の共重合体が例示される。ポリオールとしては、エチレングリコール、ジエチレングリコール、プロピレングリコールなどのグリコール類が例示される。脂肪族ジイソシアネートとしては、ジシクロヘキシルメタン−4,4−ジイソシアネート、1,6−ヘキサメチレンジイソシアネート等が例示される。このようなポリアルキレンオキサイド変性物を吸放湿性化合物として用いると、芳香族イソシアネート化合物を用いた場合に見られるような、イソシアネート基と芳香環との共鳴構造により形成されるイミド環に起因する黄変が抑制される。すなわち、長時間使用しても繊維が黄変することがなく、耐候性に優れた複合繊維とすることができる。   As the compound having moisture absorption / release properties, any compound having good moisture absorption / release properties and little change in color tone may be used. Specifically, a polyalkylene oxide modified product obtained by a reaction of a polyalkylene oxide, a polyol and an aliphatic diisocyanate compound is preferable. Examples of the polyalkylene oxide used as a raw material for the modified polyalkylene oxide include polyethylene oxide, polypropylene oxide, and a copolymer of both. Examples of the polyol include glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, and propylene glycol. Examples of the aliphatic diisocyanate include dicyclohexylmethane-4,4-diisocyanate and 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate. When such a polyalkylene oxide-modified product is used as a moisture-absorbing / releasing compound, a yellow color caused by an imide ring formed by a resonance structure of an isocyanate group and an aromatic ring, as seen when an aromatic isocyanate compound is used. Change is suppressed. That is, even if it is used for a long time, the fiber does not turn yellow, and a composite fiber excellent in weather resistance can be obtained.

ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維のための吸放湿性化合物としてポリアルキレンオキサイド変性物を用いる場合、この化合物の含有率は、そのポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維において0.5〜60質量%の範囲にあることが好ましい。ポリアルキレンオキサイド変性物の含有率が0.5質量%未満では目的とする吸放湿性が得られない場合があり、反対に含有率が60質量%を超えると紡糸性に問題が生じるおそれがある。   When a polyalkylene oxide modified product is used as a hygroscopic compound for polyamide-based hygroscopic fibers, the content of this compound is in the range of 0.5 to 60% by mass in the polyamide-based hygroscopic fiber. Is preferred. If the content of the polyalkylene oxide-modified product is less than 0.5% by mass, the intended moisture absorption / release property may not be obtained. On the contrary, if the content exceeds 60% by mass, a problem may occur in spinnability. .

ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維が、吸放湿性を有する化合物とポリアミドとのブレンド物を芯成分とし、ポリアミドを鞘成分として紡糸した芯鞘型複合繊維である場合において、その芯鞘複合比は、質量比で芯/鞘=15/85〜85/15の範囲にあることが好ましく、これよりも芯成分の割合が低いと吸放湿性に劣り、芯成分の割合が高いと紡糸性に問題が生じる恐れがある。   In the case where the polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fiber is a core-sheath type composite fiber obtained by spinning a blend of a compound having moisture absorption / release properties and polyamide as a core component and polyamide as a sheath component, the core-sheath composite ratio is The core / sheath ratio is preferably in the range of 15/85 to 85/15. If the ratio of the core component is lower than this, the moisture absorption / release property is inferior, and if the ratio of the core component is high, a problem occurs in the spinnability. There is a fear.

本発明で使用するポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維とポリウレタン糸との複合糸としては、上記ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維とポリウレタン糸とをエアーで交絡させた混繊糸や、ポリウレタン糸をポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維でシングルカバーもしくはダブルカバーしたいわゆるFTYタイプの複合糸などを例示することができる。複合するときのポリウレタンのドラフト率は、本発明のデニム調織物の伸長性すなわちストレッチ性の観点から、3.0〜3.5であることが好ましい。   As the composite yarn of the polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fiber and the polyurethane yarn used in the present invention, a mixed yarn in which the polyamide-based moisture-releasing / releasing fiber and the polyurethane yarn are entangled with air, or the polyurethane yarn is a polyamide-based absorbing / releasing material. Examples include so-called FTY type composite yarns that are single-covered or double-covered with wet fibers. It is preferable that the draft rate of the polyurethane at the time of compounding is 3.0 to 3.5 from the viewpoint of the stretchability of the denim-like woven fabric of the present invention, that is, the stretchability.

本発明のデニム調織物の織物設計の観点としては、経糸がインジゴ染料によりロープ染色された綿スラブ糸であり、緯糸に使用するポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維とポリウレタン糸との複合糸は、白糸のままとすることができる。織物の軽量感および速乾性を表現するために、経糸には綿番手8/1よりも細番手を使用することが必要である。好ましくは、綿番手14/1〜18/1である。8/1より太番手になると生地重量が重たくなりすぎ、速乾性も著しく低下する。反対に20/1以上の細番手になるとデニム特有の風合い、強度、布厚が不足する。   From the viewpoint of the fabric design of the denim-like woven fabric of the present invention, the warp is a cotton slab yarn dyed with an indigo dye, and the composite yarn of the polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fiber used for the weft and the polyurethane yarn is a white yarn. Can be left. In order to express the lightness and quick drying of the fabric, it is necessary to use a fine count rather than a cotton count 8/1 for the warp. The cotton count is preferably 14/1 to 18/1. If it is thicker than 8/1, the weight of the dough becomes too heavy and the quick-drying property is remarkably lowered. On the other hand, when the fine count is 20/1 or more, the texture, strength and fabric thickness peculiar to denim are insufficient.

本発明のデニム調織物においては、この織物が綾織り組織で構成されていると、最も効果的にデニム調を表現することができる。しかし、接触涼感性をより高めるために、緯糸を少しでも肌面に配置する効果をねらった朱子織を用いても構わない。   In the denim-like fabric of the present invention, when this fabric is composed of a twill weave structure, the denim tone can be expressed most effectively. However, in order to further improve the cool contact feeling, you may use satin weaving that aims to arrange the wefts on the skin surface even a little.

製織工程は、通常のスパン布帛と同様の工程とすることができる。たとえば使用できる織機としては、エアジェット織機、レピア織機などの革新織機や、通常の織機などに充分対応することが可能である。   The weaving process can be a process similar to a normal spun fabric. For example, as a usable loom, it is possible to sufficiently cope with an innovative loom such as an air jet loom or a rapier loom, or a normal loom.

本発明のデニム調織物は、綿素材のみを用いた通常の綿デニムと同等の吸水性、吸放湿性を阻害することなく、吸水速乾性、接触涼感性、緯方向の伸長回復性、軽量感、風合いに優れた性能を兼ね備えた特長を有する。このためジーンズ用途に好適であり、ジーンズに用いたときにその機能特性を充分に発揮することができる。更には、前記特長を生かした他の用途、たとえばアウトドア衣料/用品、山岳衣料/用品等にも用いることが可能である。   The denim-like woven fabric of the present invention has a water-absorbing quick-drying property, a contact cool feeling property, a wetting direction stretch recovery property, and a light weight feeling without impairing water absorption and moisture absorption / release properties equivalent to those of ordinary cotton denim using only a cotton material. , It has a feature that combines excellent performance in texture. For this reason, it is suitable for jeans use, and when used for jeans, its functional characteristics can be sufficiently exhibited. Furthermore, the present invention can be used for other applications utilizing the above-described features, such as outdoor clothing / apparatus, mountain clothing / apparatus, and the like.

以下の実施例、比較例における織物の評価は、下記の方法にて実施した。
(1)目付
織物地から25cm×25cmの試験片を採取し、平衡水準率以下となるまで充分に乾燥した後、20℃×65%RHの室内に24時間放置し、水準平衡とした後に、その試験片の質量を測定した。得られた試験片の質量を1mあたりに換算し、試験片2枚についての平均値で目付を表した。
Evaluation of the textiles in the following examples and comparative examples was carried out by the following method.
(1) Fabric weight A test piece of 25 cm × 25 cm was collected from the fabric, sufficiently dried until the equilibrium level ratio or less, and left in a room at 20 ° C. × 65% RH for 24 hours to achieve level equilibrium. The mass of the test piece was measured. The mass of the obtained test piece was converted per 1 m 2 , and the basis weight was expressed as an average value for two test pieces.

(2)吸水性
JIS L1907に規定される滴下法にて評価した。詳細には、保持枠に取り付けた試験片に水滴を滴下させ、水滴が試験片に到達してから、吸水により水の鏡面反射がなくなるまでの時間(秒)を測定し、その時間によって吸水性を評価した。
(2) Water absorption It evaluated by the dripping method prescribed | regulated to JISL1907. Specifically, a drop of water is dropped on the test piece attached to the holding frame, and the time (seconds) from when the water drop reaches the test piece until the specular reflection of water disappears due to water absorption is measured. Evaluated.

(3)吸放湿性能
試料を温度105℃で2時間乾燥したうえで質量W0を測定した後、温度25℃、相対湿度60%の条件で2時間調湿したうえで質量W1を測定し、下式(a)により初期水分率M0を求めた。次いでこの試料を温度34℃、相対湿度90%の条件下で24時間吸湿させた後、質量W2を測定し、吸湿後の水分率M1を下式(b)により算出した。そして、M1とM0との差を吸湿性(RMA)として下式(c)で算出した。
(3) Moisture absorption / release performance After measuring the mass W0 after drying the sample at a temperature of 105 ° C. for 2 hours, the mass W1 is measured after conditioning for 2 hours under the conditions of a temperature of 25 ° C. and a relative humidity of 60%, The initial moisture content M0 was determined by the following equation (a). Next, the sample was absorbed for 24 hours under conditions of a temperature of 34 ° C. and a relative humidity of 90%, then the mass W2 was measured, and the moisture content M1 after moisture absorption was calculated by the following equation (b). And the difference of M1 and M0 was computed by the following Formula (c) as hygroscopicity (RMA).

M0[%]={(W1−W0)/W0}×100 (a)
M1[%]={(W2−W0)/W0}×100 (b)
吸湿性(RMA)=M1−M0 (c)
上記の条件で吸湿させた後の試料を、温度25℃、相対湿度60%の条件で24時間放湿させた後、質量W3を測定し、放湿後の水分率M2を下式(d)により算出した。そして、M2とM1との差を放湿性(RMD)として下式(e)で算出した。
M0 [%] = {(W1-W0) / W0} × 100 (a)
M1 [%] = {(W2−W0) / W0} × 100 (b)
Hygroscopicity (RMA) = M1-M0 (c)
The sample after moisture absorption under the above conditions was allowed to dehumidify for 24 hours under the conditions of a temperature of 25 ° C. and a relative humidity of 60%, and then the mass W3 was measured. Calculated by And the difference of M2 and M1 was computed by the following Formula (e) as moisture release property (RMD).

M2[%]={(W3−W0)/W0}×100 (d)
放湿性(RMD)=M1−M2 (e)
(4)接触涼感性
精密迅速熱物性測定装置(カトーテック社製、品名:THERMO RABO II)を用い、ΔT=20℃の条件での最大熱吸収速度(Qmax)[W/cm]を測定し、その測定値によって接触涼感性を評価した。
M2 [%] = {(W3-W0) / W0} × 100 (d)
Moisture release (RMD) = M1-M2 (e)
(4) Contact cool sensation Using a precise rapid thermophysical property measuring apparatus (product name: THERMO RABO II, manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.), the maximum heat absorption rate (Qmax) [W / cm 2 ] under the condition of ΔT = 20 ° C. is measured. The contact coolness was evaluated by the measured value.

(5)緯方向の伸長率および回復率
JIS L 1096 伸長回復率 B法(定荷重法)および「伸長回復率及び残留ひずみ率」B−1法(定荷重法)に準じて測定した。その詳細は次のとおりである。
(5) Elongation rate and recovery rate in the weft direction JIS L 1096 Elongation recovery rate Measured according to method B (constant load method) and “elongation recovery rate and residual strain rate” B-1 method (constant load method). The details are as follows.

・伸長率
寸法変化が安定した状態となるように調整した試料から、経方向6cm緯方向30cmの試験片3枚を採取し、幅方向すなわち経方向の両端より等本数の糸を抜き取り、5cm幅の試験片とした。引張試験機を用い、この試験片の長さ方向すなわち緯方向の一端を上部クランプで固定し、目付(g/m)の5%の重量に相当する荷重を初荷重としてかけた状態で、20cm間隔に一対の印を付けた。そして、無荷重に相当する初荷重の状態から静かに14.7Nの荷重を加え、1分間放置後の一対の印間の長さ(cm)を測り、次式によって伸長率(%)を求めた。3回求めた伸長率の平均値を算出し、小数点以下1桁に丸めて測定値とした。
・ Elongation rate Three specimens measuring 6 cm in the warp direction and 30 cm in the weft direction were taken from the sample adjusted so that the dimensional change was stable, and an equal number of yarns were extracted from both ends in the width direction, that is, the warp direction. This was a test piece. Using a tensile tester, one end in the length direction, that is, the weft direction of this test piece was fixed with an upper clamp, and a load corresponding to a weight of 5% of the basis weight (g / m 2 ) was applied as an initial load. A pair of marks was made at 20 cm intervals. Then, gently apply a load of 14.7 N from the initial load corresponding to no load, measure the length (cm) between the pair of marks after standing for 1 minute, and obtain the elongation rate (%) by the following formula. It was. The average value of the elongation obtained three times was calculated and rounded to one digit after the decimal point to obtain a measured value.

EP={(L1−L0)/L0}×100
ここに、EP:伸長率(%)、L0:もとの印間の長さ(20cm)、L1:14.7Nの荷重を加え1分間放置後の印間の長さ(cm)である。
EP = {(L1-L0) / L0} × 100
Here, EP: elongation rate (%), L0: length between original marks (20 cm), and L1: length between marks after applying a load of 14.7 N for 1 minute (cm).

・伸長回復率
試験片の調整、初荷重の付与、印付けは、伸長率の測定の場合と同じとした。次いで、静かに14.7Nの荷重を加え、1時間放置後の一対の印間の長さ(cm)を測った。次いで荷重を取り除き、30秒後に再度初荷重を加えて、再び印間の長さ(cm)を測り、次式によって伸長回復率(%)を求めた。3回求めた伸長回復率の平均値を算出し、小数点以下1桁に丸めて測定値とした。
-Elongation recovery rate The test piece adjustment, initial load application, and marking were the same as in the measurement of the elongation rate. Next, a load of 14.7 N was applied gently, and the length (cm) between the pair of marks after standing for 1 hour was measured. Next, the load was removed, the initial load was applied again 30 seconds later, the length (cm) between the marks was measured again, and the elongation recovery rate (%) was determined by the following formula. The average value of the elongation recovery rate obtained three times was calculated and rounded to one decimal place to obtain a measured value.

Er={(L1−L1a)/(L1−L0)}×100
ここに、Er:伸長回復率(%)、L0:もとの印間の長さ(20cm)、L1:14.7Nの荷重を加え1時間放置後の印間の長さ(cm)、L1a:荷重を取り除いて30秒後に初荷重を加えた時の印間の長さ(cm)である。
Er = {(L1-L1a) / (L1-L0)} × 100
Here, Er: elongation recovery rate (%), L0: length between original marks (20 cm), L1: length between marks after being applied for 1 hour with a load of 14.7 N (cm), L1a : The length (cm) between the marks when the initial load is applied 30 seconds after the load is removed.

(6)速乾性(拡散性残留水分率)
天秤の上に乗せたガラス板の中央部の上に0.6gの蒸留水を滴下した。これに10cm×10cmにカットした試験片をその裏面(肌面)に滴下蒸留水が接するように乗せた。その後、蒸留水を含んだ試験片の重量変化を測定し、残留水分率が10%に至るまでの時間(分)を測定し、その測定値を速乾性の指標とした。
(6) Quick drying (diffusible residual moisture content)
0.6 g of distilled water was dropped onto the central part of the glass plate placed on the balance. A test piece cut to 10 cm × 10 cm was placed on this so that the distilled water was in contact with the back surface (skin surface). Then, the weight change of the test piece containing distilled water was measured, the time (minutes) until the residual moisture content reached 10% was measured, and the measured value was used as an index for quick drying.

(7)風合い
デニム調織物において緯糸が配置された肌面側を手指によって触ることで官能検査を行い、下記の基準にもとづき判定した。
〇:織物の柔らかさ、織物表面のすべり性とも良好
△:織物の柔らかさ、織物表面のすべり性ともやや劣る
(7) Texture A sensory test was performed by touching the skin side where wefts were arranged in a denim-like woven fabric with a finger, and a determination was made based on the following criteria.
◯: Both fabric softness and fabric surface slipperiness are good △: Fabric softness and fabric surface slipperiness are both slightly inferior

<実施例1>
m−クレゾール溶媒中で濃度0.5g/L、20℃にて測定した相対粘度が2.6のナイロン6を85質量部と、ポリエチレンオキサイド、1,4−ブタンジオール、ジシクロヘキシルメタン4,4ジイソシアネートの反応物であるポリアルキレンオキサイド変性物(1gの吸湿能35g)15質量部とをブレンドした混合物を芯成分とした。また、上記相対粘度が2.6のナイロン6を鞘成分とした。そして、芯成分/鞘成分の質量比を50/50として、芯鞘型複合紡糸・延伸を行い、仮撚数3400T/M、仮撚温度180℃、仮撚オーバーフィード率−5%で仮撚加工を施して、84dtex24f(単繊維繊度:3.5dtex)のポリアミド系芯鞘型吸放湿性長繊維の仮撚加工糸を得た。この仮撚加工糸すなわち吸放湿性繊維におけるポリアルキレンオキサイド変性物の含有率は、7.5%であった。
<Example 1>
85 parts by mass of nylon 6 having a relative viscosity of 2.6 measured in a m-cresol solvent at a concentration of 0.5 g / L and 20 ° C., polyethylene oxide, 1,4-butanediol, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4 diisocyanate A mixture obtained by blending 15 parts by mass of a polyalkylene oxide-modified product (1 g of hygroscopic capacity 35 g), which is the reaction product, was used as a core component. Further, nylon 6 having a relative viscosity of 2.6 was used as a sheath component. Then, the core / sheath component was set to a mass ratio of 50/50, and the core / sheath compound spinning / drawing was performed, and the false twist was 3400 T / M, the false twist temperature was 180 ° C., and the false twist overfeed rate was −5%. Processing was performed to obtain a false twisted yarn of 84 dtex 24f (single fiber fineness: 3.5 dtex) polyamide-based sheath-type moisture-absorbing / releasing moisture. The content of the modified polyalkylene oxide in the false twisted yarn, that is, the moisture absorbing / releasing fiber, was 7.5%.

こうして得られたポリアミド系芯鞘型吸放湿性長繊維仮撚加工糸84dtex24fを2本と、3.5倍にドラフトされたポリウレタン糸22dtex(東レオペロンテックス社製のライクラT−127C)とを混繊加工機で複合し、総合繊度:170dtexのストレッチ複合糸を得た。   Mixing two polyamide core-sheath type moisture absorbing / releasing long fiber false twisted yarn 84dtex24f thus obtained and polyurethane yarn 22dtex (Lycra T-127C manufactured by Tolo Perontex Co., Ltd.) drafted 3.5 times. Composite with a fiber processing machine to obtain a stretch composite yarn having a total fineness of 170 dtex.

次に、あらかじめ準備していたインジゴロープ染色綿スラブ糸16/1を経糸に使用するとともに、ストレッチ複合糸170dtexを緯糸に使用して、織物組織を斜子織とし、エアジェットルームにて製織して、デニム調の生地を作製した。   Next, indigo rope dyed cotton slab yarn 16/1 prepared in advance is used as warp, and stretch composite yarn 170 dtex is used as weft to make the weave fabric into a weave and weave in an air jet loom. A denim-like fabric was prepared.

得られたデニム調の生地すなわち織物についての上述の初期水分率M0は6.1%、吸湿後の水分率M1は10.0%、放湿後の水分率質M2は6.4%であった。
このデニム調の生地に対し、引き続き、定法にて仕上げ加工を施した。その後の仕上げ密度は、経100本/25.4mm(インチ)×緯84本/25.4mm(インチ)であった。こうして得られたデニム調織物は、素材混率が質量比で綿/ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維/ポリウレタン=70/28/2、目付が241g/m、緯伸長率が28.5%、緯回復率が80.4%、吸水性能が2.3秒、吸湿性能(RMA)が3.9、放湿性能(RMD)が3.6、接触涼感性(Qmax)が0.23W/cm、残留水分率が10%に至るまでの時間は82分、風合いは「〇」であった。
The above-mentioned initial moisture content M0 of the obtained denim fabric or woven fabric was 6.1%, the moisture content M1 after moisture absorption was 10.0%, and the moisture content M2 after moisture release was 6.4%. It was.
This denim-like fabric was subsequently finished by a regular method. The finishing density thereafter was 100 warps / 25.4 mm (inch) × 84 wefts / 25.4 mm (inch). The denim-like woven fabric thus obtained has a material mixing ratio of cotton / polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fiber / polyurethane = 70/28/2, basis weight 241 g / m 2 , weft elongation 28.5%, wetting recovery The rate is 80.4%, the water absorption performance is 2.3 seconds, the moisture absorption performance (RMA) is 3.9, the moisture release performance (RMD) is 3.6, the contact coolness (Qmax) is 0.23 W / cm 2 , The time until the residual moisture content reached 10% was 82 minutes, and the texture was “◯”.

<実施例2>
実施例1と比べて、緯糸にポリアミド系芯鞘型吸放湿性長繊維仮撚加工糸84dtex24fを3本と、3.5倍にドラフトされたポリウレタン糸44dtex(東レオペロンテックス社製のライクラT−127C)とを混繊加工機で複合した複合混繊糸を使用する点を相違させた。そして、それ以外は実施例1と同様にして、仕上げ密度が経98本/25.4mm(インチ)×緯80本/25.4mm(インチ)となる実施例2のストレッチデニムを得た。こうして得られたストレッチデニムは、素材混率が質量比で綿/ナイロン/ポリウレタン=65/32/3、目付が280g/m、緯伸長率が29.5%、緯回復率が83.0%、吸水性能が2.3秒、吸湿性能(RMA)が4.2、放湿性能(RMD)が4.0、接触涼感性(Qmax)が0.24W/cm、残留水分率が10%に至るまでの時間は88分、風合いは「○」であった。
<Example 2>
Compared with Example 1, three weft yarns of polyamide core-sheath type moisture absorbing / releasing long fiber false twisted yarn 84dtex24f and polyurethane yarn 44dtex drafted 3.5 times (Lycra T-manufactured by Toyo Perontex Co., Ltd.) 127C) was mixed using a compound fiber processing machine. Otherwise, in the same manner as in Example 1, a stretch denim of Example 2 in which the finishing density was warp 98 / 25.4 mm (inch) × 80 weft / 25.4 mm (inch) was obtained. The stretch denim thus obtained has a material mixing ratio of cotton / nylon / polyurethane = 65/32/3, a basis weight of 280 g / m 2 , a weft elongation of 29.5%, and a weft recovery of 83.0%. The water absorption performance is 2.3 seconds, the moisture absorption performance (RMA) is 4.2, the moisture release performance (RMD) is 4.0, the contact coolness (Qmax) is 0.24 W / cm 2 , and the residual moisture content is 10%. The time to reach was 88 minutes, and the texture was “◯”.

<比較例1>
実施例1と比べて、経糸に綿スラブ糸9/1を使用し、緯糸に綿CSY(商品名)20番手/1(芯部:ポリウレタン70d、鞘部:多数の綿繊維、撚りが掛けられたもの)を使用する点を相違させた。そして、それ以外は実施例1と同様にして、仕上げ密度が経85本/25.4mm(インチ)×緯57本/25.4mm(インチ)となる比較例1の綿ストレッチデニムを得た。こうして得られた綿ストレッチデニムは、素材混率が質量比で綿/ポリウレタン=98/2、目付が414g/m、緯伸長率が22.4%、緯回復率が64.3%、吸水性能が16秒、吸湿性能(RMA)が3.8、放湿性能(RMD)が3.4、接触涼感性(Qmax)が、0.19W/cm、残留水分率が10%に至るまでの時間は113分、風合いは「△」であった。
<Comparative Example 1>
Compared with Example 1, cotton slab yarn 9/1 is used for the warp, and cotton CSY (trade name) 20 count / 1 for the weft (core: polyurethane 70d, sheath: many cotton fibers, twisted) ) Was used. Otherwise, in the same manner as in Example 1, a cotton stretch denim of Comparative Example 1 in which the finishing density was warp 85 / 25.4 mm (inch) × 57 weft / 25.4 mm (inch) was obtained. The cotton stretch denim thus obtained has a material mixture ratio of cotton / polyurethane = 98/2 in mass ratio, basis weight 414 g / m 2 , weft elongation 22.4%, weft recovery rate 64.3%, water absorption performance For 16 seconds, moisture absorption performance (RMA) of 3.8, moisture release performance (RMD) of 3.4, contact coolness (Qmax) of 0.19 W / cm 2 , and residual moisture content of 10% The time was 113 minutes and the texture was “Δ”.

<比較例2>
実施例1と比べて、経糸に綿スラブ糸9/1を使用し、緯糸にフルダルポリエステル加工糸(167T144f)2本とポリウレタン糸44dtexとの複合混繊糸を使用する点を相違させた。そして、それ以外は実施例1と同様にして、仕上げ密度が経89本/25.4mm(インチ)×緯54本/25.4mm(インチ)となる比較例2のストレッチデニムを得た。こうして得られたストレッチデニムは、素材混率が質量比で綿/ポリエステル/ポリウレタン=72/26/2、目付が320g/m、緯伸長率が23.7%、緯回復率が86.0%、吸水性能が12秒、吸湿性能(RMA)が2.8、放湿性能(RMD)が2.6、接触涼感性(Qmax)が0.16W/cm、残留水分率が10%に至るまでの時間は75分、風合いは「△」であった。
<Comparative Example 2>
Compared with Example 1, a cotton slab yarn 9/1 was used as the warp, and a composite mixed yarn of two full-dal polyester processed yarns (167T144f) and polyurethane yarn 44 dtex was used as the weft. Otherwise, in the same manner as in Example 1, a stretch denim of Comparative Example 2 having a finishing density of 89 warps / 25.4 mm (inch) × 54 wefts / 25.4 mm (inch) was obtained. The stretch denim thus obtained has a material mixture ratio of cotton / polyester / polyurethane = 72/26/2 in mass ratio, a basis weight of 320 g / m 2 , a weft elongation of 23.7%, and a weft recovery rate of 86.0%. The water absorption performance is 12 seconds, the moisture absorption performance (RMA) is 2.8, the moisture release performance (RMD) is 2.6, the contact coolness (Qmax) is 0.16 W / cm 2 , and the residual moisture content is 10%. The time to completion was 75 minutes, and the texture was “Δ”.

<比較例3>
実施例1と比べて、経糸に綿スラブ糸9/1を使用し、緯糸に、ポリアミド系芯鞘型吸放湿性長繊維仮撚加工糸84dtex24fを3本と、3.5倍にドラフトされたポリウレタン糸44dtex(東レオペロンテックス社製のライクラT−127C)とを混繊加工機で複合した複合混繊糸を使用する点を相違させた。そして、それ以外は実施例1と同様にして、仕上げ密度が経89本/25.4mm(インチ)×緯56本/25.4mm(インチ)となる比較例3のストレッチデニムを得た。こうして得られたストレッチデニムは、素材混率が質量比で綿/ナイロン/ポリウレタン=71/27/2、目付が305g/m、緯伸長率が24.6%、緯回復率が87.0%、吸水性能が3.5秒、吸湿性能(RMA)が4.0、放湿性能(RMD)が3.9、接触涼感性(Qmax)が0.22W/cm、残留水分率が10%に至るまでの時間は97分、風合いは「○」であった。
<Comparative Example 3>
Compared to Example 1, cotton slab yarn 9/1 was used as the warp, and the polyamide core-sheath type moisture-absorbing and releasing long fiber false twisted yarn 84dtex24f was used as the weft and was drafted 3.5 times. A difference was made in that a composite mixed yarn obtained by combining polyurethane yarn 44 dtex (Lycra T-127C manufactured by Toyo Perontex Co., Ltd.) with a blending processing machine was used. Otherwise, in the same manner as in Example 1, a stretch denim of Comparative Example 3 having a finishing density of 89 warp / 25.4 mm (inches) × 56 wefts / 25.4 mm (inches) was obtained. The stretch denim thus obtained has a material mixture ratio of cotton / nylon / polyurethane = 71/27/2, mass per unit area of 305 g / m 2 , weft elongation of 24.6%, and weft recovery of 87.0%. The water absorption performance is 3.5 seconds, the moisture absorption performance (RMA) is 4.0, the moisture release performance (RMD) is 3.9, the contact coolness (Qmax) is 0.22 W / cm 2 , and the residual moisture content is 10%. The time required to reach 97 minutes was 97 minutes, and the texture was “◯”.

上記実施例、比較例の評価結果を表1に示す。   Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the above Examples and Comparative Examples.

Figure 2015067914
Figure 2015067914

表1に示すように、実施例1、2のデニム調織物は、目付が低くしたがって軽量で、伸長回復性、接触涼感性、速乾性、ポリアミド特有のソフトな風合いに優れる織物であった。これに対し、比較例1の綿ストレッチデニムは、軽量感に欠け、回復率も低く、また接触涼感、速乾性にも劣るものであった。比較例2のポリエステルストレッチデニムは、軽量感に欠け、接触涼感性や特に吸湿性の面で劣るものであった。比較例3のデニム調織物は、目付が305g/mを超えていたことから、軽量感に欠け、速乾性の面で劣るものであった。 As shown in Table 1, the denim-like woven fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 were low in basis weight and therefore lightweight, and were excellent in stretch recovery, contact cooling, quick drying, and soft texture peculiar to polyamide. On the other hand, the cotton stretch denim of Comparative Example 1 lacked the lightness, had a low recovery rate, and was inferior in the cool contact feeling and quick drying. The polyester stretch denim of Comparative Example 2 lacked the lightness and was inferior in terms of contact coolness and particularly hygroscopicity. The denim woven fabric of Comparative Example 3 had a basis weight of over 305 g / m 2, and thus lacked lightness and was inferior in terms of quick drying.

Claims (3)

経糸が綿番手8/1よりも細手の綿スラブ糸であり、緯糸がポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維を用いた捲縮加工糸とポリウレタン糸との複合糸であり、目付が300g/m以下であることを特徴とするデニム調織物。 The warp is a cotton slab yarn that is finer than the cotton count 8/1, the weft is a composite yarn of a crimped yarn and a polyurethane yarn using polyamide-based moisture-absorbing and releasing fibers, and the basis weight is 300 g / m 2 or less. Denim-like fabric characterized by ポリアミド系吸放湿性繊維が、ポリアルキレンオキサイドとポリオールと脂肪族ジイソシアネート化合物との反応によって得られたポリアルキレンオキサイド変性物とポリアミドとの混合物にて構成された芯成分と、ポリアミドにて構成された鞘成分とを有する芯鞘複合型吸放湿性繊維であることを特徴とする請求項1記載のデニム調織物。   A polyamide-based moisture-absorbing / releasing fiber is composed of a core component composed of a mixture of a polyalkylene oxide-modified product obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene oxide, a polyol and an aliphatic diisocyanate compound and polyamide, and a polyamide. The denim-like woven fabric according to claim 1, which is a core-sheath composite type moisture-absorbing / releasing fiber having a sheath component. 残留水分率が10%に至るまでの時間が90分以内であり、緯方向の伸長回復率が75%以上であり、接触涼感性Qmax(ΔT=20)が0.2W/cm以上であることを特徴とする請求項1または2記載のデニム調織物。 The time until the residual moisture content reaches 10% is within 90 minutes, the elongation recovery rate in the weft direction is 75% or more, and the contact cool sensitivity Qmax (ΔT = 20) is 0.2 W / cm 2 or more. The denim-like woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2.
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