JP2008179908A - Yarn dyed woven fabric containing polyurethane elastic fiber and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven fabric containing polyurethane elastic fibers having soft stretchability providing a comfortable feeling to wear and dimensional stability without deteriorating an excellent touch feeling of polyester/rayon blended yarns, polyester/wool blended yarns or wool spun yarns. <P>SOLUTION: The fiber dyed woven fabric is woven by using composite yarns composed of blended yarns of polyester fibers dyed at 125-135°C and rayon fibers or wool fibers dyed at 80-100°C or spun yarns of the wool fibers, the polyurethane elastic fibers composed of a diamine compound such as a polyether diol having a side chain and the blended yarns or the spun yarns as warp yarns and/or weft yarns. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2008,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a dyed woven fabric including polyurethane elastic fibers having a soft stretch property that is rich in drape and flexibility while maintaining the texture of wool and rayon. More specifically, the present invention relates to a dyed woven fabric including polyurethane elastic fibers which have excellent texture such as softness, swelling, resilience, and touch, exhibit soft stretchability, and have a comfortable wearing feeling and excellent motion following ability.

  2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, outerwear fabric materials such as women's suits and slacks have been favorably used in order to increase the ability to follow various movements of the body when worn and to facilitate movement. Along with the diversification of the market in recent years, not only mere stretchability, but also soft stretchability, softness, bulge, resilience, etc. can be experienced not only in stretchability, but also in fabrics used in outerwear, etc. There are demands for comfort and functionality such as good texture, good follow-up to various movements, and good detachability.

  So far, woven fabrics in which polyester, rayon, wool, polyurethane elastic fibers and the like are combined and mixed have been proposed (see Patent Documents 1 and 2).

  In general, stretch fabrics such as polyester / rayon blend fabrics, polyester / wool blend fabrics, and wool fabrics containing polyurethane elastic fibers are subjected to a high-temperature heat-setting process in the dyeing process. This is carried out for the purpose of preventing dimensional changes during sewing and dimensional changes of clothing products by increasing the dimensional stability of the fabric and reducing the shrinkage rate, and is a polyester / rayon mixed fabric containing polyurethane elastic fibers. This is a characteristic process for polyester / wool mixed fabrics. However, rayon and wool are not originally suitable for high-temperature heat treatment, and when they are subjected to a heat setting process in which high-temperature hot air is blown, they are altered and discolored, and the original texture of rayon and wool is impaired. There was a problem.

In addition, in order to minimize the effect of changes in the texture of rayon or wool, if the maximum temperature of heat setting is suppressed, sufficient heat setting effect cannot be obtained and fabrics with unstable dimensions can be processed. As a result, reworking occurs and productivity is lowered, and there is a risk of causing quality problems due to abnormal shrinkage of fabrics in the marketed products.
JP 2000-303326 A JP 2001-288635 A

  The object of the present invention is to provide a soft stretch, texture, and dimensional stability that can provide a comfortable wearing feeling without impairing the excellent texture of polyester / rayon blended fabric, polyester / wool blended fabric or woolen fabric containing polyurethane elastic fibers. An object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric having properties.

  In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the dyed fabric including the polyurethane elastic fiber of the present invention has the following configuration.

  That is, warps and / or wefts are polyester fiber / rayon fiber or polyester fiber / wool fiber pre-dyed mixed yarn or wool fiber pre-dyed spun yarn, side chain polyether diol, diisocyanate and plural kinds of diamine compounds It is a dyed woven fabric that is made of a composite yarn of polyurethane elastic fiber and has a THV (Total Hand Value) by KES method of 4 or more.

  Moreover, the manufacturing method of the dyed fabric containing the polyurethane elastic fiber of this invention has the following structures.

  That is, the polyester fiber is dyed at 125 to 135 ° C, while the rayon fiber or the wool fiber is individually dyed at 80 to 100 ° C, and then the polyester fiber and the rayon fiber or the wool fiber are mixed and spun. Polyester fiber / rayon fiber blended yarn or polyester fiber / wool fiber blended yarn or spun yarn by spinning the wool fiber, and then the blended yarn or spun yarn and polyurethane elastic fiber are twisted to form a composite yarn And weaving using the composite yarn as warp and / or weft.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric having a texture and stretchability superior to those of a conventional stretch fabric for outerwear, and also having excellent dimensional stability.

  The pre-dyed fabric of the present invention comprises pre-dyed blended yarn or spun yarn and elastic fibers.

  As the pre-dyed mixed yarn used in the present invention, a pre-dyed mixed yarn of polyester fiber / rayon fiber or a pre-dyed mixed yarn of polyester fiber / wool fiber is used. By including the polyester fiber, it is excellent in cost reduction, heat setting property, strength, and antifungal property. By containing rayon fiber or wool fiber, it has a good texture and excellent color development. Moreover, you may use the spun yarn of a wool fiber independent.

  The dyeing method of the pre-dyed blended yarn may be either cotton dyeing or yarn dyeing, but cotton dyeing is preferable from the viewpoint of economy and quality, and the top dyeing method is particularly preferably used.

  As a method for obtaining a stretch fabric, a method of combining a polyester fiber / rayon fiber blended yarn or a polyester fiber / wool fiber blended yarn with an elastic fiber is known, and the composite yarn thus obtained is woven. When the raw machine is dyed at 125 to 135 ° C. at high temperature and high pressure, there is a problem that the physical strength of the rayon fiber or the wool fiber is lowered or the texture becomes hard.

  In the present invention, the polyester fiber is dyed at 125 to 135 ° C., and the rayon fiber or the wool fiber is dyed at 80 to 100 ° C., respectively. Thereafter, the polyester fiber and the rayon fiber or the wool fiber are mixed and spun to obtain a dyed polyester fiber / rayon fiber blended yarn or a polyester fiber / wool fiber blended yarn. Moreover, it is good also as a spun yarn of wool fiber alone. The resulting blended yarn or spun yarn and polyurethane elastic fiber are twisted to form a composite yarn. The composite yarn is used for warp or weft, or both warp and weft. By applying, a fabric having improved physical strength as compared with a fabric containing conventional polyurethane elastic fibers and having a soft texture and soft stretchability can be obtained.

  The count of the pre-dyed blended yarn or spun yarn used in the present invention is preferably 20 to 80, more preferably 30 to 60.

  The blend ratio of polyester fiber / rayon fiber or polyester fiber / wool fiber is preferably 70/30 to 30/70 by weight.

  The polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention has heat resistance that does not deteriorate even when exposed to heat in a wide temperature range from low temperature to high temperature during heat treatment during textile processing, and soft stretchability and high recovery in processed fabrics. It is preferable to exhibit high performance, a soft wearing feeling and a fit feeling, and further high exercise following ability. Such a polyurethane elastic fiber is obtained by spinning polyurethane obtained by reacting a polyether diol having a side chain, a diisocyanate compound, and a plurality of diamine compounds.

  The polyether diol having a side chain preferably has a molecular weight of 1500 or more and 6000 or less, more preferably 1800 or more and 4000 or less. By using a polyether diol having a molecular weight in this range, a polyurethane elastic fiber having appropriate strength and elongation can be obtained. Moreover, by having a side chain, the crystallization of the polymer in the elastic yarn is suppressed, and the soft stretch property can be enhanced. Here, the side chain of the polyether diol is preferably a methyl group. This is because a methyl group has little steric hindrance and has little influence on the strength of the yarn, particularly the breaking strength. Examples of the polyether diol having a methyl group in the side chain include a copolymer of 1,4-butanediol and neopentyl glycol, and a copolymer of 1,4-butanediol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol. 1,5-pentanediol and neopentyl glycol copolymer, 1,5-pentanediol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol copolymer, 1,6-hexanediol and neopentyl glycol Copolymer, copolymer of 1,6-hexanediol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, copolymer of tetrahydrofuran (hereinafter abbreviated as THF) and 3-methyl THF, THF and 1,2- And polyether diols such as a copolymer of dimethyl THF and a copolymer of THF and 1,3-dimethyl THF. Preferably, a copolymer of 1,4-butanediol and neopentyl glycol, a copolymer of 1,4-butanediol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, a copolymer of THF and 3-methylTHF Polyether diol. More preferred are a copolymer of 1,4-butanediol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, which are less sterically hindered by a methyl group, and a polyether diol of a copolymer of THF and 3-methylTHF. Most preferred is a polyether diol of a copolymer of THF and 3-methyl THF. Here, the ratio of the monomer having a methyl group side chain is preferably 5 to 20 mol% in terms of a molar ratio. If the ratio of the methyl group side chain monomer is too high, the polyurethane elastic fiber tends to be inferior in strength and durability against sunlight. If the ratio of the methyl group side chain monomer is too low, the polyether diol exhibits crystallinity and is inferior in soft stretch properties, which is not preferable.

  In the present invention, other polyether diols, polyester diols, polycarbonate diols and the like may be mixed singly or in combination as long as the good characteristics are not impaired.

  As the diisocyanate compound used in the present invention, any of an aromatic diisocyanate compound, an aliphatic diisocyanate compound, and an alicyclic diisocyanate compound can be used. These may be used as a mixture, but it is preferable to use an aromatic diisocyanate compound having high reactivity with active hydrogen. Examples of the aromatic diisocyanate compound include tolylene diisocyanate, 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 1,4-diisocyanatobenzene, xylylene diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthalene diisocyanate, and the like. These aromatic diisocyanate compounds may be used singly or in combination of two or more, but 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate is preferably used from the viewpoint of reactivity and the strength and elongation characteristics of the resulting polyurethane yarn.

  The mixing ratio of the polyether diol having a side chain described above and the diisocyanate compound is preferably in the range of 1: 1.3 to 1: 2.5 in molar ratio. Particularly preferred is a range of 1: 1.4 to 1: 2.0. Within this range, polyurethane elastic fibers having high strength and excellent recovery can be obtained. Further, it does not adversely affect the production process of the polyurethane elastic fiber.

  In the present invention, a plurality of diamine compounds are used as chain extenders. It is preferable to use a diamine compound containing ethylenediamine and a branched aliphatic diamino compound having 3 to 5 carbon atoms in a molar ratio of 98: 2 to 82:18. By using multiple types of diamine compounds, crystallization when polyurethane elastic fibers are stretched can be suppressed, and by combining with polyether diols having side chains, soft stretch properties can be significantly improved than before. It becomes possible.

  Next, as the plural kinds of diamine compounds, those containing ethylenediamine and a branched aliphatic diamino compound having 3 to 5 carbon atoms are preferable, and in particular, as the branched aliphatic diamino compound, 1,2- It is preferable to use at least one of diaminopropane, 2-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, and 1-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane.

  Ethylenediamine preferred as the first diamine compound significantly improves the breaking strength and heat resistance of the resulting polyurethane elastic fiber. Examples of preferable branched aliphatic diamino compounds having 3 to 5 carbon atoms as the second diamine compound include 1,2-diaminopropane, 2-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, 1-methyl-1, and the like. A diamine compound having one methyl side chain, such as 3-diaminopropane, is preferred. 1,2-Diaminopropane is most preferred because it has a small steric hindrance and hardly affects the heat resistance. The ratio of the diamine compound to the branched aliphatic diamino compound is preferably in the range of 98: 2-82: 18 in terms of molar ratio. More preferably, it is the range of 95: 5-85: 15. This range is suitable for suppressing the crystallization when the polyurethane elastic fiber is stretched without impairing the heat resistance, and it is possible to realize a soft wearing feeling and a fitting feeling that are not conventional even in a fabric. .

  The fineness and cross-sectional shape of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the present invention are not particularly limited. For example, the cross section of the yarn may be circular or flat. The yarn of the present invention may contain various stabilizers, pigments and the like. For example, as antioxidants, hindered phenolic drugs such as so-called BHT (abbreviation of dibutylhydroxytoluene) and “Sumilyzer GA-80” (registered trademark) manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., various tinuvins Including benzotriazole-based drugs such as Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., "Sumilyzer P-16" (registered trademark), phosphorus-based drugs, hindered amine-based drugs, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and carbon black Inorganic pigments, metal soaps such as magnesium stearate, bactericides and deodorants containing silver and zinc and their compounds, lubricants such as silicone and mineral oil, barium sulfate, cerium oxide, betaine and phosphoric acid It contains various antistatic agents such as those that react with polymers. It can have.

  In particular, in order to further enhance the durability to light and various types of nitric oxide, it is necessary to use a nitric oxide scavenger, for example, HN-150 manufactured by Nippon Hydrazine Co., Ltd., a thermal oxidation stabilizer, a light stabilizer and the like. It is valid. These addition methods are not particularly limited, and conventionally known methods such as a static mixer method can be applied.

  The spinning of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the present invention can be carried out by a wet spinning method, but is preferably carried out by a dry spinning method because the spinning speed can be increased.

  The fineness of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the present invention is preferably 22 dtex or more and 117 dtex or less, and particularly preferably 22 dtex or more and 78 dtex or less.

  In the present invention, the polyurethane elastic fiber is combined with the above-mentioned polyester fiber / rayon fiber or polyester fiber / wool fiber dyed mixed yarn or wool spun yarn. As a method of making a composite yarn, any method such as twisted yarn, air entanglement, covering, core yarn, etc., which can easily exert the effect of the present invention, may be used, but two spun yarns are used to maximize the effect. And a method of twisting three fibers of elastic fibers by actual twisting is preferable. In addition, as a variation of the fabric structure, polyurethane elastic fibers may be used as bare yarns as warp yarns or weft yarns, and other natural fibers such as cotton, wool, hemp, polyester, nylon, acrylic, vinylon, polypropylene Alternatively, a synthetic yarn such as rayon or a recycled fiber may be used as a warp or weft.

  The woven fabric of the present invention is a fabric woven by using the composite yarn as a part or all of the warp or weft, using elastic fiber for either the warp or the weft, and the polyester fiber / rayon fiber or polyester fiber / Any of a blended yarn obtained by blending wool fibers or a spun yarn of wool alone may be used. In addition to the blended yarn obtained by blending the polyester fiber and the rayon fiber or the wool fiber, or the wool spun yarn and the elastic fiber, other natural fiber, regenerated fiber, or synthetic fiber may be used.

  Examples of the fabric structure include Cassido, cashmere, twill, flat, satin, amundsen, and double woven fabric, and are not particularly limited, but for women's outerwear, twill tissue or twill-changed tissue, and flat fabric. Tissue is preferred.

  As described above, the woven fabric using the dyed yarn thus obtained has a THV (Total Hand Value) of 4 or more according to the KES (Kawabata Evaluation System) method.

In order to calculate THV (Total Hand Value) in the present invention, the basic mechanical quantities LT (tensile hardness), WT (tensile work amount), RT (tensile recovery), using the KES KN-101W equation. EM (elongation), B (bending rigidity), 2HB (bending recovery), G (shear rigidity), 2HG (shear recovery at φ = 0.5 °), 2HG5 (shear recovery at φ = 5 °) , LC (compression hardness), WC (compression work), RC (compression recovery), MIU (average friction coefficient), MMD (average deviation of friction coefficient), SMD (surface roughness), T (initial load 0) The HV (Hand Value) is calculated from the thickness at 0.5 gf / cm ² , W (weight per unit area), etc., and the obtained HV (Hand Value) is calculated as THV (Total Hand by the KN-301 WINTER-THV equation). Value) Kill.

  In the present invention, if the THV (Total Hand Value) is less than 4, the pre-dyed fabric of polyester / rayon blend or polyester / wool blend has a softness, bulge, resilience, etc., soft stretch properties, high Restorability, soft wearing feeling, and good detachability are impaired.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. In addition, the measuring method of each characteristic in an Example is as follows.

[Texture test method]
It measured by the Men's WINTER SUIT method using KES KN-101W type | formula and KN-301 WINTER-THV type | formula. (N number was measured at 1.)
[Elongation recovery rate]
Measured according to JIS L 1096 “General Textile Test Method (Method B-1)”. (N number was measured at 3.)
[Laundry test]
The measurement was performed according to JIS L 0217 “Signs for Handling of Fiber Products and Display Method (Method 103)”. (N number was measured at 1.)
[Example 1]
Polyether diol which is a copolymer of THF and 3-methyl THF (PTG-L3500 manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd., molecular weight 3500, the ratio of 3-methyl THF is about 15 mol%) and 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate Was reacted for 4 hours under a nitrogen stream at 90 ° C. in a solvent-free condition at a molar ratio of 1: 1.85. The residual isocyanate group after the reaction was 1.80% by weight.

  585 g of the resulting isocyanate-terminated urethane prepolymer was dissolved in 1225 g of dimethylacetamide (hereinafter abbreviated as DMAc), and then 6.38 g of ethylenediamine, 1.39 g of 1,2-diaminopropane and 0.92 g of A viscous polymer solution was produced by adding a chain extender solution obtained by diluting a mixed solution with diethylamine with 160 g of DMAc at 40 ° C. and stirring the solution. When the solution viscosity of the obtained polymer solution (polyurethane concentration 30% by weight) was measured with a falling ball viscometer, it was 1300 poise at 40 ° C.

  Next, this polymer solution was dry-spun as a spinning solution, taken up by a godele roller, and wound around a normal cardboard tube to produce an elastic yarn of 50 dtex / 4 filament. At this time, the winding speed was 660 m / min, and the speed ratio between the godet roller and the winder was 1.19.

  On the other hand, polyester fiber cotton is dyed with a disperse dye at 130 ° C. using a package dyeing machine, and rayon fiber cotton is dyed with reactive dye at 80 ° C. using a package dyeing machine, and then polyester / rayon ( A blended yarn (1/40 count) having a blending ratio of 65% by weight / 35% by weight was obtained.

  A total of 3 polyurethane elastic yarns, 2 top-dyed polyester / rayon blended yarns, and a ring type twisting machine with 3.5 times draft, 680 twists / m (S), 93 ° C twist set A composite yarn processed under conditions of 20 minutes was obtained.

  This composite yarn was used as a warp and a weft, and was weaved in a living machine in a warp density of 65 / inch, a weft density of 50 / inch, a woven structure of 2/1 twill, and an air jet loom.

  The resulting raw machine is subjected to finishing and finishing in the order of relaxing scouring (110 ° C. × 30 minutes), drying (120 ° C. × 15 minutes), heat setting (160 ° C. × 1 minute), and a warp density of 79 yarns / inch and a weft density of 74 Finished to be books / inch.

[Example 2]
After wool fiber cotton was dyed with acid dye at 90 ° C. using a package dyeing machine, a wool spun yarn 2/72 count was obtained by an ordinary spinning method. Using a total of three of these two wool spun yarns and one 33 decitex / 3 filament of polyurethane elastic yarn used in Example 1, the draft was 3.5 times and the number of twists was 850 times / m (S ), A composite yarn processed under the conditions of a twist set 85 ° C. × 20 minutes was obtained.

  This composite yarn was used as a warp and a weft, and was weaved in a raw machine in a warp density of 66 yarns / inch, a weft density of 50 yarns / inch, a woven structure of 2/1 twill, and an air jet loom.

  The obtained green machine was arranged and finished in the same manner as in Example 1, and finished so that the warp density was 82 / inch and the weft density was 65 / inch.

[Comparative Example 1]
A polyurethane produced by subjecting a prepolymer of polytetramethylene ether glycol and diphenylmethane-4,4′-diisocyanate to a chain extension reaction using ethylenediamine as a chain extender is dry-spun by a conventional method. The fabric was finished according to Example 1 except that 44 dtex / 4 filaments of polyurethane elastic fiber produced were used.

  The pre-dyed fabric obtained in Example 1 has an excellent texture of a polyester / rayon mixed fabric compared to that obtained in Comparative Example 1, and has excellent stretch properties and dimensional stability. there were.

  The results are shown in Table 1.

Claims (4)

The warp and / or the weft is composed of a polyester fiber / rayon fiber or a polyester fiber / wool fiber dyed mixed yarn or a wool fiber dyed yarn, and a polyether diol having a side chain, a diisocyanate, and a plurality of diamine compounds. A yarn-dyed woven fabric containing polyurethane elastic fibers, which is composed of a composite yarn with polyurethane elastic fibers and has a THV (Total Hand Value) by KES method of 4 or more. The dyed woven fabric containing polyurethane elastic fibers according to claim 1, wherein the polyester fibers are short fibers. The dyed fabric comprising polyurethane elastic fibers according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the rayon fibers are short fibers. Polyester fibers are dyed at 125 to 135 ° C. while rayon fibers or wool fibers are individually dyed at 80 to 100 ° C., and then the polyester fibers and the rayon fibers or wool fibers are mixed and spun. Polyurethane elasticity consisting of a fiber / rayon fiber blended yarn or a polyester fiber / wool fiber blended yarn, or a spun yarn obtained by spinning the wool fiber, and then a polyether diol having a side chain, a diisocyanate and a plurality of diamine compounds A method for producing a dyed woven fabric including polyurethane elastic fibers, wherein fibers are twisted with the blended yarn or the spun yarn to form a composite yarn, and the composite yarn is used for warp and / or weft.