JP2013019078A - Woven fabric having crepe - Google Patents
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Abstract
Description
本発明は、シボを有する織物に係わり、さらに詳しくは、光沢が高度に抑えられ、ソフトで膨らみ感があり、ナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボを有する織物に関する。 The present invention relates to a woven fabric having wrinkles, and more specifically, relates to a woven fabric having wrinkles with a highly suppressed gloss, soft and bulging, and a natural texture.
従来より、アンティークな織物表現として、レーヨンフィラメント糸のフルダル糸のような高度に光沢の抑えられた表情感やソフトで膨らみ感のある風合い、ナチュラルな凹凸感のある織物が求められているが、レーヨンフィラメント糸は、洗濯による収縮が大きく、また、シボを得るためには強撚が必要であり、強撚による風合いの硬化や膨らみ感の減少、洗濯収縮のさらなる増大がある。また、強撚によるシボではナチュラルな凹凸感が得られず、さらにレーヨンフィラメント糸は洗濯堅牢度が劣るという問題もある。 Traditionally, as an antique textile expression, there is a demand for a highly glossy expression, soft and swollen texture like a rayon filament yarn, and a natural uneven texture. The rayon filament yarn has a large shrinkage due to washing, and a strong twist is required to obtain a texture, and there is a further increase in the shrinkage of washing and shrinkage of the texture due to the strong twist and the feeling of swelling. In addition, there is a problem that a natural uneven feeling cannot be obtained with strong twisting, and that the rayon filament yarn is inferior in washing fastness.
これ等の問題に対して、ポリエステルフィラメント糸の酸化チタン含有のフルダル糸を用いた先撚仮撚加工糸の織物が提案されている（特許文献１）が、通常のポリエステルフィラメント糸は、高い初期引張抵抗度による風合いの硬さの問題があり、さらに酸化チタンによるザラツキ感が強く、満足のいく織物を得られていないのが現状である。 For these problems, a woven fabric of a pre-twist false twisted yarn using a titanium filament-containing fuller yarn of polyester filament yarn has been proposed (Patent Document 1), but a normal polyester filament yarn has a high initial value. At present, there is a problem of the hardness of the texture due to the tensile resistance, and the rough feeling due to titanium oxide is strong, so that a satisfactory woven fabric cannot be obtained.
本発明の目的は、光沢が高度に抑えられ、ソフトで膨らみ感のある風合い、ナチュラルな凹凸感のある、シボ表情感に優れたシボを有する織物を提供することにある。 An object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric having a texture that is highly suppressed in gloss, has a soft and swell feel, has a natural unevenness, and has an excellent texture.
本発明の要旨は、主として下記条件１、２を満足するポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａからなる先撚仮撚加工糸、好ましくは先撚での撚糸方向と仮撚加工での加撚方向とが同一の先撚仮撚加工糸を用いてなるシボを有する織物、にある。
１．初期引張抵抗度が６０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ〜８０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ
２．酸化チタンの含有量が１．０質量％〜２．０質量％
The gist of the present invention is that a pre-twisted false-twisted yarn composed mainly of a polyester filament yarn A that satisfies the following conditions 1 and 2, preferably a tip having the same twist direction in the pre-twist and the twist direction in the false twist. A woven fabric having a texture using a twisted false twisted yarn.
1. Initial tensile resistance is 60 cN / dtex to 80 cN / dtex
2. Titanium oxide content is 1.0 mass% to 2.0 mass%
本発明によれば、従来よりアンティークな織物表現として求められている、光沢が高度に抑えられ、ソフトで膨らみ感のある風合い、ナチュラルな凹凸感のある、シボ表情感に優れたシボを有する織物を提供し得る。 According to the present invention, a woven fabric that has been required as an expression of antique fabric, and has a texture that is highly suppressed in gloss, soft and swelled, has a natural unevenness, and has an excellent texture. Can provide.
以下、本発明の実施の形態について、詳細に説明する。
本発明における先撚仮撚加工糸を構成するポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａは、初期引張抵抗度が６０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ〜８０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、好ましくは６０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ〜７５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘであることが必要である。ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａの初期引張抵抗度が６０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ未満では、織物における風合いが柔らかくなり過ぎて例えば目的とする洋服のシルエットが得られなくなり、また８０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘを超えると、風合いが硬くなり、本発明の目的とする織物におけるソフトな風合いは得られない。
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
The polyester filament yarn A constituting the pre-twisted false twisted yarn in the present invention is required to have an initial tensile resistance of 60 cN / dtex to 80 cN / dtex, preferably 60 cN / dtex to 75 cN / dtex. When the initial tensile resistance of the polyester filament yarn A is less than 60 cN / dtex, the texture in the woven fabric becomes too soft, for example, the silhouette of the desired clothes cannot be obtained, and when it exceeds 80 cN / dtex, the texture becomes hard. A soft texture in the woven fabric which is the object of the invention cannot be obtained.
因みに、絹の初期引張抵抗度は４４ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ〜８８ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、通常のポリエステルフィラメント糸の初期引張抵抗度は７９ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ〜１４１ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘであり、ポリエステルフィラメント糸であっても、絹の初期引張抵抗度に近いものに変性することにより、絹に近いソフトな風合いが得られる。また、本発明におけるポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａは、通常のポリエステルフィラメント糸に比べて撚糸の撚止めセットが容易になり、撚糸の内外層のセット斑が少なく、セット時間も大幅に短縮するため、生産性の向上や品質の向上が得られ、さらに、風合いのソフト化の手段としてアルカリによる減量加工も可能であり、風合いに対する顧客の多様な要望にも対応が可能となり、また、通常のポリエステルフィラメント糸よりも低濃度のアルカリで減量できるというメリットもある。 Incidentally, the initial tensile resistance of silk is 44 cN / dtex to 88 cN / dtex, and the initial tensile resistance of ordinary polyester filament yarn is 79 cN / dtex to 141 cN / dtex. A soft texture close to silk can be obtained by denaturing the material close to resistance. Further, the polyester filament yarn A in the present invention is easier to twist and set than twisted polyester filament yarns, there are few set spots on the inner and outer layers of the twisted yarn, and the set time is greatly shortened. As a means of softening the texture, weight reduction processing with alkali is also possible, making it possible to meet various customer demands for the texture, and more than ordinary polyester filament yarns. There is also an advantage that the amount can be reduced with a low concentration of alkali.
また、本発明における先撚仮撚加工糸を構成するポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａは、酸化チタン含有量が１．０質量％〜２．０質量％、好ましくは１．０質量％〜１．８質量％である必要がある。ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａの酸化チタン含有量が１．０質量％未満では、光沢を抑える効果が不十分で、本発明の目的とする織物における光沢が高度に抑えられた表情感が得られず、酸化チタン含有量が２．０質量％を超えると、ザラツキ感が表面化して本発明の目的とする織物におけるソフトな風合いが得られない。また、酸化チタン含有量が２．０質量％を超えると、撚糸や仮撚加工工程でガイドやスピナーの磨耗が大きく、その疵でフィラメント切れが生じ易くなり生産性も悪くなる。なお、酸化チタンを含有することにより紫外線遮断効果という機能性が得られるメリットもある。 Further, the polyester filament yarn A constituting the pre-twisted false twisted yarn in the present invention has a titanium oxide content of 1.0% by mass to 2.0% by mass, preferably 1.0% by mass to 1.8% by mass. Need to be. If the content of titanium oxide in the polyester filament yarn A is less than 1.0% by mass, the effect of suppressing gloss is insufficient, and the gloss in the woven fabric targeted by the present invention cannot be obtained with a facial expression that is highly suppressed. When the titanium content exceeds 2.0% by mass, the rough feeling is brought to the surface, and a soft texture in the fabric intended by the present invention cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the titanium oxide content exceeds 2.0% by mass, the guide and spinner are greatly worn in the twisted yarn and false twisting process, and the filament is likely to be broken at the end, resulting in poor productivity. In addition, there is also a merit that the functionality of an ultraviolet blocking effect can be obtained by containing titanium oxide.
本発明における先撚仮撚加工糸を構成するポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａは、前述の条件１、２を満たしていればよく、その製造方法や単糸の断面形状、表面形状、染色性等を特に限定するものではなく、かかる初期引張抵抗度が６０ＣＮ／ｄｔｅｘ〜８０ＣＮ／ｄｔｅｘの範囲のポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａを得る方法として、例えば、ポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマーに５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸やアジピン酸等の第三成分を複数共重合させる方法、ポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマー或いは共重合ポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマーに多価アルコールアルキレンオキシド付加体等の第三成分をブレンドさせる方法、ポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマーを低延伸倍率で延伸する方法等が挙げられる。また酸化チタンは任意のポリマー段階で所定量が添加されるが、添加の時期、方法については特に限定するものではない。 The polyester filament yarn A constituting the pre-twisted false twisted yarn in the present invention only needs to satisfy the above-described conditions 1 and 2, and the production method, the cross-sectional shape, surface shape, dyeability, etc. of the single yarn are particularly limited. As a method for obtaining a polyester filament yarn A having an initial tensile resistance in the range of 60 CN / dtex to 80 CN / dtex, for example, a polyethylene terephthalate polymer and a third component such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid or adipic acid And a method in which a polyethylene terephthalate polymer or a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate polymer is blended with a third component such as a polyhydric alcohol alkylene oxide adduct, and a method in which a polyethylene terephthalate polymer is stretched at a low stretch ratio. Further, a predetermined amount of titanium oxide is added at an arbitrary polymer stage, but the timing and method of addition are not particularly limited.
本発明における先撚仮撚加工糸とは、先撚工程で低撚数の撚糸が施され、さらに仮撚加工が施されてなる加工糸である。本発明における先撚仮撚加工糸の製造の際の撚糸方法や仮撚加工方法については特に限定するものではなく、目的とする商品にあわせて、先撚りでの撚数や仮撚加工での温度、撚数等を任意に設定することが可能である。特に、先撚仮撚加工糸を得る際の仮撚加工においては、加撚方向を先撚での撚糸方向と同方向にする必要がある。先撚での撚糸方向と仮撚加工での加撚方向とが同一であると、得られた先撚仮撚加工糸の解撚トルクが強くなり、この解撚トルクにより後の染色加工等の弛緩状態の湿熱下で織物にシボが発現し、先撚での撚糸方向と仮撚加工での加撚方向とが異なると、解撚トルクが弱く、湿熱下でのシボの発現が不十分となり、本発明の目的とするシボ織物が得られない。また、仮撚加工の温度が高過ぎたり、撚数が多すぎると融着による風合い硬化が生じ、本発明の目的とする織物におけるソフトな風合いが得られない。本発明における先撚仮撚加工糸の製造に際しては、例えば、先撚では、撚数は撚係数６０００〜９０００が好ましく用いられ、仮撚加工では、温度は１６０℃〜１８０℃、仮撚張力は加撚張力が０．０１５ｇ／ｄｔｅｘ〜０．０３５ｇ／ｄｔｅｘ、解撚張力が０．０８０ｇ／ｄｔｅｘ〜０．１６ｇ／ｄｔｅｘである条件が好ましく用いられる。 The pre-twisted false-twisted yarn in the present invention is a processed yarn obtained by applying a low-twisted number of twisted yarn in a first-twisting step and further performing false twisting. There is no particular limitation on the twisting method and false twisting method in the production of the pretwisted false twisted yarn in the present invention, and according to the target product, the number of twists in the first twist and false twisting The temperature, the number of twists, etc. can be arbitrarily set. In particular, in false twisting when obtaining a pre-twisted false twisted yarn, the twisting direction needs to be the same as the twisted yarn direction in the pre-twisting. If the twist direction in the first twist and the twist direction in the false twist processing are the same, the untwisting torque of the obtained first twist false twisted yarn becomes stronger, and this untwisting torque causes later dyeing processing, etc. Wrinkles appear in the fabric under relaxed moist heat, and if the twist direction in the pre-twist and the twist direction in the false twist process are different, the untwisting torque is weak, and the wrinkle expression under wet heat becomes insufficient. Thus, the texture of the object of the present invention cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the temperature of false twisting is too high or the number of twists is too large, texture hardening due to fusion occurs, and a soft texture in the fabric intended by the present invention cannot be obtained. In the production of the pre-twisted false twisted yarn in the present invention, for example, in the pre-twist, the twist number is preferably a twist coefficient of 6000 to 9000. In the false twist process, the temperature is 160 ° C. to 180 ° C. The conditions that the twisting tension is 0.015 g / dtex to 0.035 g / dtex and the untwisting tension is 0.080 g / dtex to 0.16 g / dtex are preferably used.
また、本発明における先撚仮撚加工糸は、主としてポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａから構成され、ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａのみから構成されていてもよいし、ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａを５０質量％以上含むのであれば、ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａに他のフィラメント糸Ｂが混用されて構成されていてもよい。ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａのみの先撚仮撚加工糸或いは他のフィラメント糸Ｂが混用された先撚仮撚加工糸は、ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａを、或いはポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａとフィラメント糸Ｂとを、先撚工程で撚糸（合撚）し、撚止めセットした後、仮撚加工を施すことにより得ることができる。混用される他のフィラメント糸Ｂとしては、シックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸、セルロースアセテートフィラメント糸、ポリアミドフィラメント糸、レーヨンフィラメント糸等が挙げられる。 Further, the pre-twist false twisted yarn in the present invention is mainly composed of the polyester filament yarn A, may be composed only of the polyester filament yarn A, and if the polyester filament yarn A is contained by 50% by mass or more, The polyester filament yarn A may be mixed with another filament yarn B. A pre-twisted false twisted yarn in which only a polyester filament yarn A or other filament yarn B is mixed is used as a first twist false twisted yarn, the polyester filament yarn A or the polyester filament yarn A and the filament yarn B are pre-twisted. It can be obtained by twisting the yarn in the process (synthetic twisting) and setting it by twisting, followed by false twisting. Examples of other filament yarns B to be mixed include thick and thin polyester filament yarns, cellulose acetate filament yarns, polyamide filament yarns, and rayon filament yarns.
本発明においては、特に、ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａとしてポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマーに５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸、アジピン酸を前記初期引張抵抗度となるような量共重合させてなる常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸を用い、他のフィラメント糸Ｂとしてシックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸を用いて構成した先撚仮撚加工糸が、織物としたときに杢調表現効果とナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感に優れるため、好ましく用いられる。 In the present invention, in particular, a polyester filament yarn A is a normal pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate polymer with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and adipic acid so as to achieve the initial tensile resistance. The pre-twist false-twisted yarn constructed using chic and thin polyester filament yarn as the other filament yarn B is excellent in tone expression effect and natural textured texture when used as a woven fabric. Are preferably used.
好ましく用いられるこの先撚仮撚加工糸においては、先撚仮撚加工糸を構成する一方の前記第三成分を共重合させた常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸は、常圧でのカチオン染料可染性及び分散染料易染性を有し、また先撚仮撚加工糸を構成する他方のシックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸は、その低配向域のシック部と高配向域のシン部に基づき分散染料による常圧の染色で濃淡の異染性を有する。かかる常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸とシックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸にて構成の先撚仮撚加工糸からなる織物をカチオン染料にて常圧で沸騰染色するときには、常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸のみが染色され、シックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸の杢調効果が強調され、先撚仮撚加工による杢調のコナレ効果、ナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感効果等と相俟って、意匠性に優れたシボを有する織物が得られる。 In this pre-twisted false-twisted yarn that is preferably used, the normal-pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn obtained by copolymerizing one of the third components constituting the pre-twisted false-twisted yarn is a cationic dyeable dye at normal pressure. The other chic and thin polyester filament yarn which has a dyeability and disperse dyeability and constitutes a pre-twisted false twisted yarn is a disperse dye based on the chic portion of the low orientation region and the thin portion of the high orientation region. It is dyed at normal pressure and has a light and dark color. When textiles consisting of pre-twisted false twisted yarns composed of such normal-pressure dyeable polyester filament yarns and thick and thin polyester filament yarns are boiled with cationic dyes at normal pressure, normal-pressure dyeable polyester filaments Only the yarn is dyed, the tone effect of the chic and thin polyester filament yarn is emphasized, combined with the tone effect of the twisted pre-twisting process, the texture effect effect with natural unevenness, etc. A woven fabric having a texture with excellent design is obtained.
また、かかる常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸とシックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸にて構成の先撚仮撚加工糸からなる織物を分散染料にて常圧で沸騰染色するときには、常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸とシックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸のシック部が濃色に、シックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸のシン部が淡色に染まり、シックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸による杢調効果と先撚仮撚加工による杢調のコナレ効果、ナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感効果等により意匠性に優れた織物が得られる。なお、シックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸の種類は特に限定するものではないが、光沢の抑制の観点から、酸化チタンが含まれているものが好ましく用いられる。また、本発明における風合いや光沢の観点からシックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸の混用率も５０質量％を超えない範囲とする。 In addition, when dyeing a woven fabric made of a pre-twisted false twisted yarn composed of such a normal pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn and a thick and thin polyester filament yarn with a disperse dye at a normal pressure, a normal pressure dyeable type The chic part of the polyester filament yarn and the thick and thin polyester filament yarn is dyed in dark color, and the thin part of the thick and thin polyester filament yarn is dyed in light color. Fabrics with excellent design properties can be obtained due to the effect of the tone of the tone by processing and the effect of embossed expression with a natural texture. The kind of the thick and thin polyester filament yarn is not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of suppressing gloss, one containing titanium oxide is preferably used. In addition, from the viewpoint of texture and gloss in the present invention, the mixing ratio of the chic and thin polyester filament yarn is set to a range not exceeding 50 mass%.
本発明の先撚仮撚加工糸におけるポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａが、常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸であるときには、天然繊維だけでなく、ポリアミド繊維、アクリル繊維、レーヨン等のほとんどの繊維が常圧で染色されていることから、本発明における先撚仮撚加工糸にこれ等の繊維を製織の際に混用したときには、織物が常圧で染色可能であり、これ等の繊維のダメージを少なくし、また、エネルギーの消費も少なくてすむ。一方、ポリエステルフィラメント糸を常圧可染型にすることにより、撚糸の撚止めセット性が向上し、生産性や品質が向上する効果も得られる。 When the polyester filament yarn A in the pre-twist false-twisted yarn of the present invention is a normal pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn, not only natural fibers but also most fibers such as polyamide fibers, acrylic fibers and rayon are at normal pressure. Since these fibers are dyed in the first twist false twisted yarn in the present invention when weaving, the woven fabric can be dyed at normal pressure, reducing the damage to these fibers, Also, less energy is consumed. On the other hand, by making the polyester filament yarn into an atmospheric pressure dyeable type, the twisting set property of the twisted yarn is improved, and the effects of improving the productivity and quality are also obtained.
本発明の織物は、その組織、密度、製織方法等については特に限定はなく、また、本発明の織物の製織に際して、他の繊維を混用するときは、先撚仮撚加工糸と他の繊維との配列や経糸使い、緯糸使い等により交織してもよく、使用目的の商品の表現を考慮して任意に他の繊維、混用率を選定すればよい。本発明のシボを有する織物は、先撚仮撚加工糸を用いての製織後、弛緩状態の湿熱下で、特に好ましくは染色加工の際の染浴中で、織物を構成する先撚仮撚加工糸の解撚トルクにより織物にシボを発現、いわゆるシボ立ちを生じさせてなるものである。また、本発明のシボを有する織物には、染色加工と共にさらに皺加工が施されていることが好ましい。皺加工は、染色工程で脱液後に皺が付与される負荷を織物にかける操作であり、皺加工が施されることにより、先撚仮撚加工糸の解撚トルクによる染色加工でのシボ立ちと皺加工での皺による表情感との相乗効果で、ナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感や膨らみ感がさらに向上する。 The structure, density, weaving method, etc. of the woven fabric of the present invention are not particularly limited, and when weaving the woven fabric of the present invention, when other fibers are mixed, a pre-twisted false twisted yarn and other fibers May be woven by using an arrangement of knives, using warps, using wefts, and the like, and other fibers and mixed ratios may be arbitrarily selected in consideration of the expression of the intended product. The woven fabric having the grain of the present invention is a pre-twisted false twisted yarn constituting the woven fabric under wetting using a pre-twisted false-twisted yarn under a relaxed wet heat, particularly preferably in a dyeing bath during dyeing. The texture is caused by the untwisting torque of the processed yarn, and a so-called wrinkle is produced. Moreover, it is preferable that the textile fabric which has the grain of this invention is further subjected to wrinkle processing together with dyeing. The wrinkle processing is an operation for applying a load to the fabric after wrinkle is removed in the dyeing process. By applying the wrinkle processing, embossing in the dyeing processing by the untwisting torque of the pre-twisted false twisted yarn is performed. With the synergistic effect of facial expression due to the wrinkles and the wrinkle processing, the wrinkled facial expression and bulge feel with a natural unevenness is further improved.
以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。なお、実施例中、初期引張抵抗度はＪＩＳ Ｌ−１０１３に準拠して測定し、風合いや外観等はハンドリング、目視によって評価した。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. In the examples, the initial tensile resistance was measured according to JIS L-1013, and the texture and appearance were evaluated by handling and visual observation.
（実施例１）
ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａとして、５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸２．２５モル％及びアジピン酸５モル％を共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレートからなる酸化チタン１．５質量％含有の常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸フルダル１６７ｄｔｅｘ／４８フィラメント（単糸丸断面）を用いた。この常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸は、カチオン染料または分散染料による常圧での沸騰染色で濃色レベルの染色性を有し、また初期引張抵抗度が７０．３ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘであった。この常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸を２本用い、撚糸機（村田機械社製３１０−Ｃ）にて、撚方向Ｚ、撚数４００Ｔ／ｍの撚糸を施し、それを乾熱６０℃で３日間の撚止めセットを行った。この撚糸を用い、仮撚加工機（三菱重工業社製ＬＳ−２）にて、温度１７０℃、撚数１５００Ｔ／ｍ、加撚方向Ｚの仮撚加工を施し、先撚仮撚加工糸を作成した。仮撚加工時の加撚張力は８ｇ／ｙ、解撚張力は３３ｇ／ｙであり、得られた先撚仮撚加工糸は繊度が３６４ｄｔｅｘであった。
Example 1
As polyester filament yarn A, atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn fuldal 167 dtex containing 1.5% by mass of titanium oxide composed of polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.25 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 5 mol% of adipic acid / 48 filament (single yarn round cross section) was used. This normal pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn had a dyeing property at a dark color level by boiling dyeing at normal pressure with a cationic dye or a disperse dye, and had an initial tensile resistance of 70.3 cN / dtex. Using two of these normal pressure dyeable polyester filament yarns, a twisting machine with a twisting direction Z and a twisting number of 400 T / m is applied by a twisting machine (Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. 310-C). A daily twist set was performed. Using this twisted yarn, false twisting at a temperature of 170 ° C., a twist number of 1500 T / m, and a twisting direction Z is performed on a false twisting machine (LS-2 manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) to create a pre-twisted false twisted yarn did. The twisting tension at the time of false twisting was 8 g / y, the untwisting tension was 33 g / y, and the obtained first twist false twisted yarn had a fineness of 364 dtex.
得られた先撚仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度５１本／吋、緯糸密度４６本／吋の平組織の織物を製織した。この生機を常法により減量率２０質量％にアルカリ減量加工した後、カチオン染料を用いた１０５℃の染色で白色に染色加工し、経糸密度５９本／吋、緯糸密度５１本／吋に仕上げた。得られた織物は、光沢が高度に抑えられた、ソフトで膨らみ感のある風合いとナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感に優れた平織物であった。また、この染色加工時に皺加工を施したところ、得られた織物は、皺加工での皺の表情感との相乗効果で、ナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感や膨らみ感がさらに向上したものであった。 Using the obtained pre-twist false twisted yarn, a plain fabric with a warp density of 51 yarns / 吋 and a weft density of 46 yarns / 吋 was woven. This raw machine was subjected to alkali weight reduction processing to a weight loss rate of 20% by mass by a conventional method, and then dyed white by dyeing at 105 ° C. using a cationic dye to finish warp density 59 / 吋 and weft density 51 / 吋. . The resulting woven fabric was a plain woven fabric with a highly suppressed gloss, a soft and swollen texture, and a natural textured texture. In addition, when the wrinkle processing was performed during this dyeing process, the resulting woven fabric has a further improved texture and swelling feeling with a natural unevenness due to a synergistic effect with the facial expression of the wrinkles in the wrinkle processing Met.
（実施例２）
実施例１で作成した先撚仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度６０本／吋、緯糸密度４９本／吋の梨地（１２０×１２０）組織の織物を製織した。この生機を常法により減量率１８質量％にアルカリ減量加工した後、カチオン染料を用いた１２０℃での染色で黒色に染色加工し、経糸密度７４本／吋、緯糸密度５８本／吋に仕上げた。得られた織物は、光沢が高度に抑えられた、ソフトで膨らみ感のある風合いとナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感に優れた梨地織物であった。また、この染色加工時に皺加工を施したところ、得られた織物は、皺加工での皺の表情感との相乗効果で、ナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感や膨らみ感がさらに向上したものが得られた。
(Example 2)
Using the pre-twisted false-twisted yarn produced in Example 1, a woven fabric with a satin (120 × 120) structure with a warp density of 60 yarns / 吋 and a weft density of 49 yarns / 吋 was woven. This raw machine is processed by alkali reduction to a weight loss rate of 18% by mass in the usual way, then dyed black by dyeing at 120 ° C. using a cationic dye, and finished with a warp density of 74 / 吋 and a weft density of 58 / 吋. It was. The resulting woven fabric was a satin woven fabric with a high degree of gloss, a soft and swelled texture, and a natural textured texture. In addition, when the wrinkle processing was performed during this dyeing process, the resulting woven fabric has a further improved texture and swelling feeling with a natural unevenness due to a synergistic effect with the facial expression of the wrinkles in the wrinkle processing was gotten.
（実施例３）
実施例１でポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａとして用いた常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸フルダル１６７ｄｔｅｘ／４８フィラメント（単糸丸断面）１本とフィラメント糸Ｂとしてシックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸セミダル８４ｄｔｅｘ／３６フィラメント（東レ社製Ｚ２７５）１本とを用い、引き揃えて撚糸機（村田機械社製３１０−Ｃ）にて撚方向Ｚ、撚数６００Ｔ／ｍの撚糸を施し、それを乾熱６０℃で３日間の撚止めセットを行った。この撚糸を用い仮撚加工機（三菱重工業社製ＬＳ−２）にて温度１７０℃、撚数２１００Ｔ／ｍ、加撚方向Ｚの仮撚加工を施し先撚仮撚加工糸を作成した。仮撚加工時の加撚張力は８ｇ／ｙ、解撚張力は３３ｇ／ｙであり、得られた先撚仮撚加工糸は繊度が２８６ｄｔｅｘであった。
(Example 3)
Normal pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn full 167 dtex / 48 filament (single yarn round cross section) used as polyester filament yarn A in Example 1 and filament yarn B as thick and thin polyester filament yarn semidal 84 dtex / 36 filament ( Z275) manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., and twisted with a twisting machine (310-C manufactured by Murata Kikai Co., Ltd.) and twisted with a twisting direction Z and a twist number of 600 T / m, and dried at 60 ° C. for 3 days. A twist set was made. Using this twisted yarn, false twisting at a temperature of 170 ° C., a twist number of 2100 T / m, and a twisting direction Z was performed with a false twisting machine (LS-2 manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) to prepare a pre-twisted false twisted yarn. The twisting tension at the time of false twisting was 8 g / y, the untwisting tension was 33 g / y, and the obtained pre-twisted false twisted yarn had a fineness of 286 dtex.
得られた先撚仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度６５本／吋、緯糸密度５８本／吋の梨地（１２０×１２０）組織の織物を製織した。この生機を常法により減量率２０質量％にアルカリ減量加工した後、カチオン染料を用いた１０５℃での染色で紺色に染色加工し、経糸密度７８本／吋、緯糸密度６５本／吋に仕上げた。得られた織物は、光沢が高度に抑えられた、ソフトで膨らみ感のある風合いとナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感に優れたものであった。また、ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａの常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸のみが紺色に染色され、フィラメント糸Ｂのシックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸の杢調効果が強調されており、先撚仮撚加工による杢調のコナレ効果とナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感効果等の相乗効果により、意匠性に優れたものであった。また、染色加工時に皺加工を施して得た織物は、皺加工での皺の表情感との相乗効果で、ナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感や膨らみ感がさらに向上したものであった。 Using the obtained pre-twist false-twisted yarn, weaved a satin (120 × 120) fabric with a warp density of 65 yarns / 吋 and a weft density of 58 yarns / 吋. This raw machine is processed by alkali reduction to a weight loss rate of 20% by mass in the usual manner, and then dyed at a color of 105 ° C. using a cationic dye, and finished to a warp density of 78 / 吋 and a weft density of 65 / 吋. It was. The resulting woven fabric was excellent in soft and bulging texture with a highly suppressed gloss and a textured expression with a natural unevenness. Further, only the normal pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn of the polyester filament yarn A is dyed amber, and the tone effect of the thick and thin polyester filament yarn of the filament yarn B is emphasized. Due to the synergistic effects such as the tone effect and the natural embossing effect, the design was excellent. In addition, the woven fabric obtained by carrying out the wrinkle processing at the time of dyeing has a further improved texture and swelling feeling with a natural unevenness due to a synergistic effect with the wrinkle expression in the wrinkle processing.
（実施例４）
実施例３において、製織して作成した生機を分散染料を用いた１１０℃での染色で濃いベイジュ色に染色加工した以外は、実施例３と同様にして減量加工し、仕上げた。得られた織物は、ポリエステルフィラメント糸Ａの常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸とフィラメント糸Ｂのシックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸のシック部とが濃色に、シックアンドシン型ポリエステルフィラメント糸のシン部が淡色に染色され、濃淡による杢調表現のため実施例３で得た織物と比べおとなしい杢調表現となっていた。また、得られた織物は、杢調も実施例３で得た織物とは異なって表情となり、意匠性に優れたナチュラルな杢調で、光沢が高度に抑えられた、ソフトで膨らみ感のある風合いとナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感に優れたものであった。
Example 4
In Example 3, the raw material produced by weaving was subjected to a weight reduction process and finished in the same manner as in Example 3 except that it was dyed into a dark beige color by dyeing at 110 ° C. using a disperse dye. The obtained woven fabric has a thick color of the polyester filament yarn A at normal pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn and the thick portion of the filament yarn B thick and thin polyester filament yarn, and the thin portion of the thick and thin polyester filament yarn. Was dyed in a pale color, and the gradation expression was gentle compared to the fabric obtained in Example 3 because of gradation expression by shading. In addition, the obtained woven fabric has a different expression from the woven fabric obtained in Example 3, has a natural tone with excellent design, has a highly suppressed gloss, and has a soft and swollen feeling. It was excellent in the texture and the expression of wrinkles with natural unevenness.
（比較例１）
実施例１において、初期引張抵抗度７０．３ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、酸化チタン含有量１．５質量％の常圧可染型ポリエステルフィラメント糸の代わりに、ポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸フルダル１６７ｄｔｅｘ／４８フィラメント（三菱レイヨン社製、単糸丸断面、初期引張抵抗度１００ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、酸化チタン含有量２質量％）を２本用いた以外は、実施例１と同様にして、撚糸機（村田機械社製３１０−Ｃ）にて撚方向Ｚ、撚数４００Ｔ／ｍの撚糸を施し、乾熱６０℃で撚止めセットを行った後、この撚糸を用い仮撚加工機（三菱重工業社製ＬＳ−２）にて温度１８０℃、撚数１５００Ｔ／ｍ、加撚方向Ｚの仮撚加工を施し先撚仮撚加工糸を作成した。仮撚加工時の加撚張力は８ｇ／ｙ、解撚張力は３４ｇ／ｙであり、得られた先撚仮撚加工糸は繊度が３６４ｄｔｅｘであった。
(Comparative Example 1)
In Example 1, instead of an atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn having an initial tensile resistance of 70.3 cN / dtex and a titanium oxide content of 1.5% by mass, a polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn full 167 dtex / 48 filament (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) Twisting machine (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd. 310-C), except that two single yarn round cross sections, initial tensile resistance of 100 cN / dtex, and titanium oxide content of 2 mass% were used. After twisting with a twist direction Z and a twist number of 400 T / m, and performing a twist set at a dry heat of 60 ° C., the temperature is 180 using a false twisting machine (LS-2 manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) using this twisted yarn. A pre-twisted false twisted yarn was prepared by false twisting at a temperature of 1500 ° C., a twist number of 1500 T / m, and a twisting direction Z. The twisting tension at the time of false twisting was 8 g / y, the untwisting tension was 34 g / y, and the obtained pre-twisted false twisted yarn had a fineness of 364 dtex.
得られた先撚仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度５１本／吋、緯糸密度４６本／吋の平組織の織物を製織した。この生機を用いて、常法により減量率２０質量％にアルカリ減量加工した後、分散染料を用いた１２０℃の高圧染色でベイジュ色に染色加工し経糸密度５９本／吋、緯糸密度５１本／吋に仕上げた。得られた織物は、光沢が高度に抑えられた、ナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感に優れたものであったが、実施例１で得た織物に比べて風合いが硬くザラツキ感のあるものであった。また、得られた織物は、結晶化度の差から生じる光の屈折率の差によるものと思われるが、実施例１の織物に比べ白さに柔らかさが感じられず高級感に劣るものであった。また、撚糸を施した後の乾熱６０℃での撚止めセットには５日間を要しており、実施例１に比べ生産性の点でも劣っていた。 Using the obtained pre-twist false twisted yarn, a plain fabric with a warp density of 51 yarns / 吋 and a weft density of 46 yarns / 吋 was woven. Using this raw machine, alkali weight reduction processing to a weight loss rate of 20% by mass using a conventional method was followed by dyeing processing into a beige color by high-pressure dyeing at 120 ° C. using a disperse dye to obtain a warp density of 59 yarns / 吋 and a weft yarn density of 51 yarns / Finished in a bag. The resulting woven fabric had a high level of luster and an excellent textured expression with natural unevenness, but the texture was harder and more rough than the woven fabric obtained in Example 1. Met. Moreover, although the obtained textile fabric seems to be based on the difference in the refractive index of light which arises from the difference in crystallinity, compared with the textile fabric of Example 1, softness is not felt in white and it is inferior to a high-class feeling. there were. Further, the twisting set at 60 ° C. after applying the twisted yarn required 5 days, and was inferior in productivity as compared with Example 1.
（比較例２）
比較例１において、初期引張抵抗度１００ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、酸化チタン含有量２質量％のポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸の代わりに、ポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸セミダル１６７ｄｔｅｘ／９６フィラメント（三菱レイヨン社製、単糸丸断面、初期引張抵抗度１０５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、酸化チタン含有量０．４質量％）を２本用いた以外は、比較例１と同様の条件で先撚仮撚加工糸を作成し、得られた先撚仮撚加工糸を用いて、比較例１と同様の条件で平組織の織物を製織した。この生機を用いて、比較例１と同様の条件で減量加工、１２０℃の高圧染色で染色加工し経糸密度５９本／吋、緯糸密度５１本／吋に仕上げた。得られた織物は、ナチュラルな凹凸感のあるシボ表情感に優れたものであったが、実施例１で得た織物に比べて光沢が強く、光沢が高度に抑えられた表情感は得られず、また、風合いも実施例１で得た織物に比べ硬いものであった。また、先撚仮撚加工糸を作成する際、撚糸を施した後の乾熱６０℃での撚止めセットには５日間を要しており、実施例１に比べ生産性の点でも劣っていた。
(Comparative Example 2)
In Comparative Example 1, instead of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn having an initial tensile resistance of 100 cN / dtex and a titanium oxide content of 2% by mass, a polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn semi-dal 167 dtex / 96 filament (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., single yarn round section, initial A pre-twisted false twisted yarn was prepared by preparing a pre-twisted false twisted yarn under the same conditions as in Comparative Example 1 except that two tensile resistances of 105 cN / dtex and a titanium oxide content of 0.4 mass% were used. A plain texture fabric was woven using the processed yarn under the same conditions as in Comparative Example 1. Using this raw machine, weight reduction processing was performed under the same conditions as in Comparative Example 1, and dyeing processing was performed by high-pressure dyeing at 120 ° C. to finish warp density 59 yarns / 吋 and weft density 51 yarns / ５１. The obtained woven fabric was excellent in the textured expression with natural unevenness, but the gloss was stronger than the woven fabric obtained in Example 1, and the expression with a highly suppressed gloss was obtained. In addition, the texture was harder than the fabric obtained in Example 1. Moreover, when creating the pre-twist false twisted yarn, the twist set at 60 ° C. after applying the twisted yarn requires 5 days, which is inferior in productivity as compared with Example 1. It was.
本発明の織物は、従来よりアンティークな織物表現として求められている、光沢が高度に抑えられ、ソフトで膨らみ感のある風合い、ナチュラルな凹凸感のある、シボ表情感に優れたシボを有し、洗濯によっても型崩れもなく洗濯堅牢度に優れるもので、衣料用素材として有用なるものである。
The fabric of the present invention has a texture that has been highly demanded as an antique fabric expression, has a highly suppressed gloss, a soft and swell feel, a natural unevenness, and an excellent texture. It is excellent in fastness to washing without being deformed by washing, and is useful as a clothing material.
Claims (5)
１．初期引張抵抗度が６０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ〜８０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ
２．酸化チタン含有量が１．０質量％〜２．０質量％ A woven fabric having a texture formed by using a pre-twisted false-twisted yarn comprising a polyester filament yarn A mainly satisfying the following conditions 1 and 2.
1. Initial tensile resistance is 60 cN / dtex to 80 cN / dtex
2. Titanium oxide content is 1.0 mass% to 2.0 mass%
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| JP2001020152A (en) * | 1999-07-05 | 2001-01-23 | Toray Ind Inc | Yarn-woven cloth |
| JP2002105783A (en) * | 2000-09-27 | 2002-04-10 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | False-twist textured yarn and method for producing the same and woven/knitted fabric made therefrom |
| JP2003239145A (en) * | 2002-02-18 | 2003-08-27 | Du Pont Toray Co Ltd | Finished yarn and method for producing the same |
| JP2009161694A (en) * | 2008-01-09 | 2009-07-23 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Ordinary-pressure cation-dyeable polyester |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS558613B1 (en) * | 1970-06-30 | 1980-03-05 | ||
| JPS5649046A (en) * | 1979-09-20 | 1981-05-02 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co | Production of nonnwillow creped fabric |
| JPS5936772A (en) * | 1982-08-23 | 1984-02-29 | 帝人株式会社 | Production of crease processed fabric |
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| JP2003239145A (en) * | 2002-02-18 | 2003-08-27 | Du Pont Toray Co Ltd | Finished yarn and method for producing the same |
| JP2009161694A (en) * | 2008-01-09 | 2009-07-23 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Ordinary-pressure cation-dyeable polyester |
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