JP2002105783A - False-twist textured yarn and method for producing the same and woven/knitted fabric made therefrom - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a false-twist textured yarn capable of giving woven/knitted fabrics imparted with crisp feeling and varied uneven feeling on the surface thereof, to provide a method for producing such a textured yarn, and to provide such woven/knitted fabrics. SOLUTION: This false-twist textured yarn is a substantially single one comprising twisted plural multifilament yarns, and has alternately nonfused portions with the twisted multifilament yarns spirally entangled with each other and fused portions with the twisted multifilament yarns bundled.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a false-twisted yarn which gives the surface of a woven or knitted material a highly varied unevenness and a different color, and a woven or knitted material having such characteristics.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, untwisted false twisted yarns based on pre-twisting false twisting yarns or denitized yarns have been widely used as processed yarns that exhibit surface irregularities such as grain on the surface of woven or knitted products. Have been. However, strong twisted yarns generally have a hard texture, are inadequate in terms of bulkiness and drapability, and often have relatively fine and delicate surface changes such as grain.

[0003] Further, untwisted false twisted yarn has a weak surface unevenness effect, has a fluffy feeling in texture, and cannot be said to have sufficient properties. On the other hand, denit yarn has long been devised to give a unique surface effect to a woven or knitted product, but the steps of knitting, heat fixing, and knitting are complicated and productivity is extremely low. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-39231 describes a false twisted yarn composed of a strongly bundled fused portion and a significantly bulky crimped portion. However, it becomes extremely bulky and has a fluffiness due to the crimped portion.

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

The present invention solves such problems in the prior art, and provides a false twisted yarn and a woven / knitted fabric having a sharp feeling and capable of imparting a variety of unevenness to the surface of the woven / knitted fabric. It is intended to be.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The gist of the present invention is a substantially single false twisted yarn composed of a plurality of twisted multifilament yarns, wherein the plurality of twisted multifilament yarns are provided. Is a false twisted yarn alternately having a helically entangled portion without fusing and a fused portion where the plurality of multifilament yarns are twisted and bundled.

[0006]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Preferred embodiments of the present invention will be specifically described below. The present invention needs to consist of a plurality of twisted multifilament yarns. Each of the multifilament yarns constituting the false twisted yarn is twisted, so that the plurality of twisted yarns are twisted and bundled, and in addition to the sharpness of the fused portion, the plurality of twisted yarns are twisted. The effect of improving the crispness can be obtained even in a portion where the strips are entangled in a helical manner without fusing. Further, by being composed of a plurality of twisted and bundled multifilament yarns, the unevenness of the helically entangled portion is improved, and the surface change in the case of a woven or knitted fabric is excellent.

As the multifilament yarn used in the present invention, for example, synthetic fibers such as polyester fiber, polyacrylonitrile fiber and polyamide fiber, and cellulosic fibers such as rayon and acetate can be used without particular limitation. Yes, it is selected according to the purpose of use, but polyester multifilament yarns are excellent in terms of false twist formability, yarn quality or dyeability.

Further, the cross-sectional shape of the filament yarn is not particularly limited, and a chrysanthemum shape, a circular shape, a flat shape, a Y shape, or the like may be selected in consideration of the feeling, gloss, and the like of the obtained woven or knitted fabric. In addition, the fineness of the single fiber constituting the multifilament yarn is not particularly limited, but when the fineness is increased, the texture of the woven or knitted fabric becomes more sharp and dry, while the fineness is reduced. This makes it possible to give a soft feeling. Furthermore, by using multi-filament yarns with high specific gravity and cationic dye dyeable multi-filament yarns, it is possible to achieve a new texture with excellent drapability and a design effect centered on different color dyeing in addition to the unique characteristics of conventional multi-filament yarns. It is also possible to demonstrate.

In the present invention, it is necessary that the yarn is substantially one false twisted yarn. Substantially 1 in the present invention
The yarn of the present invention refers to a yarn having no portion where two or more yarns constituting the composite false twisted yarn are separated by 30 cm or more in the yarn longitudinal direction. If there is a portion separated by 30 cm or more in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, the passability of the subsequent step is poor, and the surface change of the woven or knitted fabric made of the composite false twisted yarn becomes insufficient.

Further, a crimped portion in which a plurality of twisted multifilament yarns are entangled in a helical shape without fusing, and a fused portion in which the plurality of yarns are twisted and bundled alternately. It is necessary to have. False twisted yarn of the present invention,
By having the helical crimped portion and the fused portion, when this is formed into a woven or knitted fabric, a good uneven feeling, a heterochromatic property, a crepe feeling, an emboss effect, and the like are exhibited. Further, the fusion coefficient of the filament constituting the fusion portion is preferably 10 or more, and if it is less than 10, the degree of fusion is not sufficient, and the fusion portion is peeled off by simple ironing or the like. The crepe feeling and the graining effect are not obtained, and the sharpness is also reduced.

The fused portion refers to a state in which the single fibers constituting the false twisted yarn are fused by heat, and the fusion coefficient is determined by scanning the cross section of the twisted bundle portion of the false twisted yarn. Observed with an electron microscope, the portion where the single fibers were fused together and the boundary line was not observed was counted as one single fiber as a fused portion, and the apparent number of single fibers after fusion was counted and calculated by the following formula. . Fusion coefficient = (AB) / A × 100 A: Total number of single fibers constituting false twisted yarn B: Apparent number of single fibers after fusion

Next, an example of the method for producing a false twisted yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the schematic diagram shown in FIG. A plurality of pre-twisted multifilament yarns 1 and 2 are drawn and aligned by a drawing guide 5 via pretensioning devices 3 and 4, respectively, and supplied to a false twisting area via a yarn supply roller 6. Immediately after leaving the supply roller 6, the yarn is twisted, and
Heating is set sufficiently by a heater (contact heater) 7 and then untwisted immediately after passing through the false twist spindle 8. Then, after passing through the delivery roller 9, it is wound up by the winding unit 10.

In the present invention, it is necessary to supply a plurality of multifilament yarns twisted in advance. If the multifilament yarn does not have a bunching property due to twisting, the crimp phase of each multifilament yarn of the supply yarn is shifted, and the unevenness of the false twisted yarn is uniformed as a whole, and the unevenness effect of the woven or knitted fabric is obtained. Decrease.

The number of twists is 2500 × D ^−1/2 (T
/ M) or more, preferably ^{33000 × D -1 / 2 (T} / m) or ^{less, 5000 × D -1/2 (T /} m) or more, 26
000 × D ^−1/2 (T / m) or less is more preferable (provided that D is the fineness (dtex) of the supply thread). When the number of twists is less than 2500 × D ^−1/2 (T / m), the false twist processing stability tends to be poor, and 33,000 × D ^−1/2 (T / m).
If it exceeds, yarn breakage of the twisted yarn itself is likely to occur.

Further, as the supply yarn, a polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn comprising a thick portion and details is preferable. Polyester thick and thin multifilament yarns have a low-oriented thick portion that is easy to fuse in the yarn length direction and a highly-oriented detail that is difficult to fuse. This is preferable because the portion entangled in the shape is very clearly expressed. Incidentally, as a polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn, Δn = 15 to 87 × 1
0 and thickness of ^-3, made of △ n = 100 × ^{10 -3} or more details are preferred.

The direction of the false twisting in the false twisting may be the same as or opposite to the twisting direction of the supply yarn, but the false twisting is performed in the same direction as the twisting direction of the supply yarn. In this case, the fused portion is easily formed, and the unevenness of the spirally crimped portion tends to be emphasized, so that a woven or knitted fabric having a large surface change can be obtained.

Further, the first heater temperature (false twisting temperature) at the time of performing the false twisting is such that the false twisting is performed at a temperature higher than a temperature at which a part of a plurality of twisted multifilament yarns is fused. Below this temperature, the false twisted yarn does not form a fused portion and also does not form a helical crimp,
Good unevenness, crepe, and grain effect cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the temperature is too high, the unevenness effect of the woven or knitted fabric is improved, but the coarse and hard feeling is undesirably increased. In addition, by performing a heat treatment at a relatively low relaxation rate after the false-twisting, the stabilization of the crimped form becomes possible, and there is an effect of improving the permeability in the weaving and knitting product process.

[0018]

Next, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. (Examples 1 to 3) Polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn of 84 dtex / 36f (thick portion Δn: 1)
5.9-17.0 × 10 ⁻³ , details Δn: 104.0-
110.9 × 10 ⁻³ ) was pre-twisted under the conditions shown in Table 1, and two yarns of each twist number were aligned. The apparatus shown in FIG. 1 was used for a false twist temperature of 220 ° C. and 2000 t / m (S). Was false twisted. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained composite false twisted yarn. The woven / knitted fabric composed of the composite false twisted yarn was excellent in unevenness, crepe, texture, stripe, and color.

(Comparative Example 1) Two 84 dtex / 36f polyester multifilament yarns were drawn and processed under the same conditions as in Example 1. However, although there were fused portions, each of the constituent filaments was fine. The woven and knitted fabric made of the composite false twisted yarn was poor in unevenness. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained composite false twisted yarn.

(Comparative Example 2) Two 84 dtex / 36f polyester multifilament yarns were aligned and false twisted under the conditions shown in Table 1. Since the false twisting temperature is too low, there is no fused portion, and it becomes a normal false twisted yarn, each of the constituent filaments shows a fine crimp, a helical crimped portion cannot be developed, and from the composite false twisted yarn The resulting woven or knitted fabric was poor in unevenness. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained composite false twisted yarn.

(Comparative Example 3) A single yarn of 167 dtex / 48f polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn was pre-twisted at 800 t / m (S) and processed under the same conditions as in Example 1. It becomes a normal pretwisted twisted yarn, each of the constituent filaments shows fine crimps, a spiral crimped portion cannot be developed, and the woven or knitted fabric made of the composite false twisted yarn has poor unevenness. Was. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained false twisted yarn.

[0022]

[Table 1]

[0023]

As described above, the false twisted yarn of the present invention is
A fused portion in which a plurality of supply yarns are substantially one yarn, and a portion in which a plurality of supply yarns are wound in a helical shape as they are,
In the case of a woven or knitted fabric, extremely large unevenness, crepe, grain, and spots are improved by being alternately arranged in the yarn longitudinal direction and having a random length. A product with excellent properties is obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an example of a schematic view of a manufacturing apparatus for performing false twisting according to the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1, 2 Supply yarn 3, 4 Pre-tension adjusting device 5 Alignment guide 6 Thread supply roller 7 First heater 8 False twist spindle 9 Delivery roller 10 Winding unit

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) D04B 21/00 D04B 21/00 BF Term (Reference) 4L002 AA07 AB02 AB04 AC07 EA00 FA01 4L036 MA05 MA33 MA39 PA06 PA21 PA46 RA10 RA27 UA01 UA12 4L048 AA20 AA36 AB07 AB20 AB21 AC01 CA00 DA01

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A substantially single false twisted yarn composed of a plurality of twisted multifilament yarns, wherein the plurality of twisted multifilament yarns are entangled in a helical manner without fusing. A false twisted yarn characterized by alternately having a portion and a fused portion where a plurality of multifilament yarns are twisted and bundled. 2. The false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the filament constituting the fused portion has a fusion coefficient of 10 or more. 3. In a false twisting method in which a plurality of twisted multifilament yarns are aligned and twisted and heat-set, the temperature of the plurality of twisted multifilament yarns is set to a value higher than a temperature sufficient to cause a fused portion to be generated in a part of the plurality of multifilament yarns. A method for producing a false twisted yarn, comprising twisting. 4. The method according to claim 3, wherein at least one of the plurality of twisted multifilament yarns uses a polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn. 5. A woven or knitted fabric using the false twisted yarn according to claim 1.